Shooting A Speargun Out Of Water? Best 51 Answer

Most of us who have been spearing for a while have forgotten the little things about learning to use a speargun. However, I’ve had a few refreshers recently as I’ve been constantly teaching friends and family how to spearfish. Here are a few common mistakes I see a lot and how to avoid making them yourself!

1. Shoot stones.

Most spearguns have a maximum range of 6-7m. If the fish is 2 meters away from you, that’s great BUT; What’s in the 5m behind? I’ve seen a few enthusiastic pluggers shoot my prized shafts into rocks from just yards away to chase a fish and I’ll be honest sometimes it’s my fault. I’m not explaining the situation well enough. Ideally, you should NEVER shoot your shaft into a rock, and certainly not into (dare I say) anyone else. Rock shooting is a very common mistake for noobs as they often try to shoot fish from top to bottom, often near the surface in shallow water. However, the pointed end will end up looking like this. ALSO pay attention to what’s behind what you’re shooting at in dirty water. The last thing you want to do is shoot someone. To avoid this mistake, try to get to the bottom and shoot fish on the same level as you. The fish will come closer if you can get to the bottom as they think you are less dangerous!

2. Not paying attention to the shooting line path.

All harpoons have slightly different line of fire paths. They also have open muzzles, closed muzzles, and even rolling muzzles that need to be understood. My recommendation is to unload and reload your speargun several times on dry land (without loading the band(s)) to properly understand how to load your gun without getting tangled, frustrated or your speargun in the water improperly manipulated. It’s much easier to learn the firing line path on dry land than it is in the water!

3. Do not treat the loaded speargun like a loaded speargun.

Your finger should NEVER be in the trigger guard unless you are ready to fire. Likewise, your loaded speargun should NEVER be pointed at anyone or anything that could be damaged in the event the speargun is accidentally discharged (it happens). The SECURITY is not SECURE. Let me repeat that. The SAFETY of your speargun is worthless, never trust it, never rely on it. A safe speargun is an unloaded speargun.

4. No inspection and maintenance of speargun.

The shooting line is regularly rubbed on the reef and rocks, it needs to be checked and changed regularly. To check your line of fire, pull out the shaft, run your eyes over it and your fingers from the back of the shaft to where it attaches to the underside of your speargun. Replacing is easy. Watch this video guide. https://youtu.be/RPybDu3YFA0

5. Relying on others to load the gun.

Loading a speargun is difficult at first. It’s especially difficult if you have a smaller frame. However, nobody likes to load spearguns for others and you must take responsibility for it. Loading your own speargun will teach you to take your time shooting, get closer to fish, and loading will become easier over time with more practice. Try this technique from Eckart https://youtu.be/_EH5fWCQo1Q

Everyone struggles with loading a harpoon. If you are REALLY having trouble, take advantage of the charging tabs, charging aids, and two-step charging. Charging pads are your friend!

6. Not tuning the flopper.

This is the most common cause of loss of fish shot with a harpoon. You breathe a sigh of relief, slide to the bottom, gradually race up the reef, approach a curious fish, line up the shot, pull the trigger, see the shaft enter the fish right in the middle AND… the shaft pulls right back through . This is a classic S#!T moment. The reason, however, is plain and simple. Your flopper was out of tune. Check out Daniel Mann’s guide to tuning your floppers to avoid this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dyIQ6wIgDE

7. Too complicated, too fast.

It’s tempting to grab a harpoon with all the bells and whistles. You want every advantage you can get, right? I get it, but you have to respect the learning curve. Spearfishing in the water requires you to relax, hunt, watch your buddy, look out for boats, keep your mask and snorkel clean, fin and exercise, and finally dive. No need to worry about reloading a complex reel speargun OR dealing with a spool of spider web spectra off a reel. Use a simple railgun. Sure, get a two-banded harpoon, but keep it simple (KIS) to win. Until you get a really good handle on your spearfishing equipment, techniques, conditions and your team, you don’t need additional problems!

I hope some of these tips will help you in your spearfishing journey! You are not alone as we all deal with these mistakes and learn the same lessons. I have and still make mistakes!

To learn more and share lessons learned, tune in to the Noob Spearo Podcast. Available in any good podcast app here!

This article is from the Noob Spearo podcast. Be sure to check out the podcast here.

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Loading a speargun can be a difficult task when you are just starting out and it is only hampered by the fact that many spearguns are sold with rather short elastics. Here are a few things you can do to make loading your speargun easier:

1. Lengthen the elastics: On a new speargun, the elastics can often be quite short. You may need to get slightly longer elastics, which make loading the speargun a little easier and less painful. Once you have mastered the technique of loading your speargun, you can replace the elastics with the original shorter elastics. You can buy new coverings for your speargun online.

2. Buy a hip loader: Some Spearos start with a hip loader that easily attaches to your weight belt. The butt of the speargun then sits in the hip loader, which can make loading easier since the speargun cannot slip around. You can buy a hip loader online for only $19.95.

3. Buy a chest pad: Unless your wetsuit has a thick piece of foam or neoprene on the chest, you will need to buy a load pad. This makes it much easier to load your speargun onto your chest as it eliminates almost all pain and doesn’t leave you with painful blisters and welts.

Loading your speargun is mostly about technique. Some people choose to load on their waist to start, but most will transition to loading from their chest.

When loading from the chest:

1. Place one hand (if you are right-handed, your left hand) on the butt of the gun. Make sure you have an open palm on the butt of your speargun with one hand. Don’t wrap your thumb or fingers around the grip as you could accidentally trigger your gun, and it’s difficult to pull your fingers out from under the gun once they’re on your chest. Below we show you the right and wrong ways to do it

TO THE RIGHT:

NOT CORRECT:

2. With the other hand, grasp one side of your rubber close to the bridle.

3. Press your speargun into your chest while using your other hand to pull back the rubber. Once the speargun is on your chest, grab the other side of the elastic with your free hand and pull the elastic back to the desired notch on the stock.

There are some good videos on YouTube showing how to load your speargun. When the weather gets better we’ll make one ourselves, so stay tuned!

5 Marlin Gear Mistakes to Avoid!

Watch this video on YouTube

It is commonly said that spearfishing is second only to base jumping in terms of danger.

It doesn’t have to be…

When done right, spearfishing can provide a lifetime of enjoyment. However, that means you need to think about security and execute it to the best of your ability. In this article, we’ll cover some of the basics you should consider.

DISCLAIMER: Always use your best judgment before attempting anything.

Listen to more spearfishing tips on the Cast & Spear Podcast

Spearfishing tips for catching fish

There are two types of spearos (people who enjoy spearfishing), one who gets into the sport headlong and the other who takes a step back and learn a few spearfishing tips before heading out.

Photo by Meagan Suzuki

Nothing beats experience, but you’ll benefit from learning what has worked in the past and then honing your technique to find what works for you.

Bonus tip: make sure you have the right spearfishing gear for the dive.

Now that you’re aware that it pays to prepare before heading out into the open sea, let’s look at what it takes to be a successful Spearo…

The key to successfully spotting game fish is developing a sense of where fish are.

When you start thinking like a fish, you will see more fish (and thus increase your chances of catching the fish).

There are many facets to spearo diving and each offers a new thrill and excitement to the sport. Let’s dive into the different variations!

Playlist: Spearfishing equipment

Check out this playlist on YouTube

Tips for spearfishing while surface diving

A marlin hunter from the surface before ready to descend. source

Much of the time spent in the water in the early days of Spearo being is spent hunting from the surface.

You might think it’s not the right thing, but many advanced spearos will tell you that they’ve caught some notable fish near the surface. Don’t worry, at some point you’ll be diving fairly frequently and to depths you never imagined, but until then, let’s learn more about surface diving techniques.

Remember that your freediving mask will limit your vision. Therefore, you should imagine that your head is on a swivel and you should always be looking in all directions.

Don’t forget to look behind you from time to time…you never know what’s chasing you.

If you shoot from the surface, you will most likely shoot down. This will increase your shaft’s speed due to gravity, which is a good thing when you’re shooting a little farther away.

The downside is that the fish area to target is less than when you are at the same height as the fish from the side.

Al once said that while hunting white sea bass he found some of the largest fish just at the surface in a seaweed room (open water surrounded by seaweed)…

Who said you have to dive to catch big fish? But at some point, you’re going to want to explore beneath the surface, too, so let’s take a look at what mid-water spearfishing is all about.

How to dive to mean water level

A spearfisher dives to take a shot at a fish. source

Remember that every dive uses energy because you are straining your body to move your muscles with a single breath.

Here we cover how to dive to around 10 to 20 feet in mid-water and cruise around in pursuit of fish.

Terry Maas, in his great book Bluewater Hunters, recommends that you should aim to be on the bottom for 75 seconds and recover on the surface for 75 seconds. Preferably you are with a buddy who will take care of you while you are downstairs and vice versa.

If you’re not able to stay down for 75 seconds, don’t worry, just stay down for as long as is comfortable and make sure you give yourself at least 15 seconds to go up , before you run out of air.

Always play it safe when diving.

Diving and cruising in 10 to 20 feet of water is great when you are in kelp or near the kelp edge and want to hunt fish that are hanging in the middle of the water or near the bottom.

Depending on the day’s visibility, it will be difficult to see fish past five or ten feet, requiring you to dive down and look around horizontally. You’ll find that water visibility increases when you look horizontally instead of vertically, so do yourself a favor and dive to increase your chances of spotting fish.

Here is our tip for spearfishing in poor visibility:

How to dive to the bottom and wait for fish

A Spearo waiting for the perfect shot on the seabed. source

If you can hold your breath for a reasonable amount of time, it’s worth diving to the bottom and waiting for fish to swim to you.

Depending on the fish, some may be shyer than others. Make sure you check out this fishing guide to know what type of fish you are looking for for the day.

Swimming or moving at the surface can cause the fish to hide from you. So if you dive to the bottom and wait, eventually the frightened fish will return to their original location and you can take a shot.

Sometimes they’ll even swim towards you for a close-range shot. Try to be as still as possible so you blend in with your surroundings. Some spearos even recommend not staring directly at the fish until the last moment to avoid accidentally startling them.

Spearfishing tips for stalking and shooting

The goal here is to get to the same level as your game, because when you shoot a fish from above, the target is much smaller. It’s easier to line up a shot when you’re on the same level, and you have a bigger target to hit.

It is recommended to attempt a “killshot” whenever possible. If you aim for the sideline, that’s where the fish’s spine is. If you hit the fish in the spine, it’s a fatal shot.

Rules of thumb for spearfishing

The dirtier the water, the scarier the fish. Just as it’s scarier to dive into the water you can’t see, the fish will feel the same way and will be more wary of their surroundings.

If the water is rough, make shallow dives below the surface. Staying on the surface can make the hunt difficult as water will splash into your snorkel. Don’t get seasick, it’s not fun and happens when the waves are rough.

Don’t swim at fast-moving fish (swim with them if possible). The time you need to line up to aim is not appropriate for a fast moving fish like tuna.

Make sure you have a large enough speargun and the right equipment for the type of game you are hunting. Don’t go after a 50 lb white bass with a 50 inch speargun and no reel or swim line… it’s a surefire way to lose your gear or get injured in a dangerous spot or worse.

How to be quieter when spearfishing

Deflate your suit before entering the fish area (preferably as soon as you enter the water). If people are seen they will poke holes in the hood of their spearfishing wetsuit or open part of their wetsuit during their first dive to let the bubbles escape.

Try not to create any sudden movements that will disturb the fish – always try to be “gentle”.

Remove your snorkel before your dives to avoid blistering. Once bubbles form, it’s sure to startle any fish in the immediate area.

Try not to make splashes while diving (for the same reason that you don’t make bubbles).

Try to stay relaxed so you can do longer dives. Being tense takes extra energy and when you think about how many times you dive in a 3-4 hour period the inefficiencies add up. be like water.

Be aware that when you are in harmony, the fish will come to you. If you can think like a Pisces, remove any excess tension from your mind, and enjoy the moment, the Pisces will not be so scared.

Using a Fishing Spear (Pole Spear)

Spearo uses a pole spear to catch fish.

Many beginning spearos use a fishing spear (see our fishing spear guide) because it’s cheaper than buying a speargun. Just because they cost less doesn’t mean they can’t be effective with the right technique.

Here are some general pole spear rules of thumb to get you started.

Think of the pole spear as an extension of your arm, not a tool attached to it. It shoots where you point it, provided you aim it as if it were part of your arm. If you bend your wrist you won’t have the right structure to stabilize the load and your shot will miss. Make sure you fully release the spear. Many spearos try to feather the bar while flying because you feel like you’re going to lose the bar. By doing this, you are actually slowing down the pole spear, which limits penetration and can reduce accuracy. Use your non-shooting arm to control your body. By gently extending the non-firing arm at your side, you can use it to balance yourself while aiming. Rotate the rod 1/4 to 1/2 turn while loading the tape. This is to help reduce shaft deflection under load. Make sure you have enough weight in your weight belt. When using a pole spear you need to get close to the fish, which is much more difficult on the surface. Practice shooting at floating objects. Some Spearos like to take out plastic water bottles or even sausages to practice shooting them to the surface between dives. Practice creates masters. Some spearos also like to practice firing grenades on the seabed, as reloading a pole spear is quick and easy. Pole spearing requires a lot of patience. Find your zen. You’ll have to wait for fish to come within range, so make sure you know exactly what your range is for your pole spear. Don’t practice shooting fish. If you shoot a fish, make sure it is the legal size within your state or country’s regulations and with the intention of eating it after killing it. Watch your elbow. Repeatedly loading a heavy band over time can stress the elbow joint. Make sure to do proper joint pre-treatment and post-treatment before and after use, so that you can use the pole spear to old age.

Spearfishing tips for beginners

Below are some rules of thumb for beginners to spearfishing.

Never extend a dive too close to your limits. And be aware of your limits. Give yourself enough time to surface. Always leave enough downtime cushion. In other words, don’t push your limits. Do your homework before hunting. If you can, try to get a report from a website or other divers to know the conditions. The worst thing is traveling to a spot only to turn back or feel compelled to dive in poor conditions, which can be dangerous. Only use gear that is appropriate for the game you are hunting. If you’re looking for small fish, you can use a small harpoon or pole spear. If you’re after big fish, you’ll need a larger speargun and reel, or a floating line and float. Ask for help when you need it. No fish or record is worth dying for. Never point a loaded speargun at anyone. Always leave the fuse on until you reach the hunting area. Some Spearos have chosen not to use a safety, so make sure you warn your dive buddies in advance, and take extra care to keep nobody near you while the weapon is loaded. Dirtier water tends to have scarier fish. Deflate your suit as soon as you enter the water. Spit out your snorkel before diving when diving for creepier fish (like sea bass). White Sea Bass is a shy fish and any noise will startle them. If possible, reduce any potentially noisy actions. Avoid playful sea lions and other sea creatures. Remember that all animals in the wild are WILD. They might seem cute until they attack. Do not approach against the movement or flow of your target. Try to catch the direction the fish is moving (do not swim towards the fish). Approach your goal as slowly and smoothly as possible. Choose a shooting point and swim to the point. Point your speargun at a point and let the fish swim into position. Avoid eye contact with your target. Feel your shot (don’t aim your gun). Once you’ve dialed in your speargun, you’ll start to get a feel for it. IMPORTANT: Never point a loaded speargun at anyone. The faster you clean your fish, the longer it will last and taste better. Some Spearos bleed the fish after braining them in the water. This is a good method as long as there are no sharks around… be careful. A bonus for storing fish is to vacuum seal the fillets and store them in the freezer.

Spearfishing tips

In the beginning, you should go to a dive shop that specializes in freediving. Most of these shops have people who know what they are talking about and who are happy to help you.

At some point you’ll need to repair or replace pieces of equipment, so it’s better to befriend a shop you trust for insight. However, sometimes you will find that gear is cheaper online, so use the dive shop as a place to try them on and get advice, then buy them online.

Remember, if you have any spearfishing questions, ask! Especially in the beginning there should be no egos involved. Don’t waste time and don’t put yourself in bad situations because you were afraid to ask.

If you’re a Spearo beginner, do yourself a favor and start getting out there by either meeting people at the freediving or dive shop, or joining forums like Spearboard. The more diving friends you have, the more opportunities you have for safe diving trips.

Try to get in the water at least once a week, preferably twice. Once you start getting a feel for your surroundings, you will start catching more fish.

The more Spearos we have in the water the longer we can keep this sport alive and educate others about the state of our oceans and how to keep these amazing fish plentiful and healthy.

This post was written with the help of Al Schneppershoff III, who has been a spearfisherman for over 48 years, and his wife, Vicki Rosenthal…

Max Spearfishing is supported by readers. We may receive a small commission for purchases made through our links. Click to learn more.

When I first got my hands on a pneumatic speargun, it was a pleasant surprise. I admit it. I was a doubter. Growing up I always used banded spearguns and that’s all I knew about spearfishing. But once I started experimenting with pneumatic spearguns I quickly fell in love with the size to power ratio. They’re just pounding. Especially for short dirty cave guns. In today’s guide I want to share with you my picks for the best pneumatic speargun on the market so you can buy the best one.

But first I want to clarify. When we started researching this guide, we had a specific Spearo in mind. You. The recreational diver who probably only gets out to spearfish two or three times a month. With that in mind, we wanted to find a versatile speargun. A speargun that will stand up to both shallow dives and deeper water when you have the desire to go further. Our recommendation for the best air speargun meets both of these needs and is the perfect purchase for those looking to try spearfishing with an air speargun.

And that’s not all. As we narrowed down our list of the best pneumatic spearguns, we also spoke to the pros, both spearos and those who run dive shops, to hear their feedback on these underwater hunting tools. Plus, we got our hands on a few of these to test them out firsthand. It took a lot of dives over almost as many weekends to complete the process. But we have found the best pneumatic speargun.

Do you want to know what it is?

Cressi SL Star pneumatic speargun

Editor’s Choice: Best Pneumatic Speargun

The Cressi SL Star is a staple when it comes to pneumatic spearguns. Cheap and easy to use, many spearos swear by it, but I’ve had a few minor issues with it, so at this price point I prefer the Mares Sten range. You will need to replace the attachment that connects your stock to the gun as it is plastic and can break easily. Overall it’s a good pneumatic speargun and at these prices it’s a great entry-level weapon if you’re looking to switch from a banded speargun.

111 Reviews Cressi SL Star, 70cm, Silver/Yellow The SL Star is an ultra-light, easy-to-use pneumatic speargun and fires quickly. Ideal for spearfishing on small to medium surfaces

The SL Star range of pneumatic spearguns have been manufactured for many years and have gained worldwide acclaim for their excellent reliability, precision, power and robustness.

It features an anatomical high-grip grip that allows the weapon to be effortlessly aligned with the arm.

The bright yellow grip allows you to quickly and easily identify the weapon, even if it lands on the seabed after firing.

The SL pistols are equipped with a safety lock to prevent accidental firing and when the trigger is pulled the cord release automatically releases the stock cord.

Why I think the Cressi SL Star is the best pneumatic speargun:

Available in 40cm (16″), 55cm (24″) and 70cm (28″)

20 bar pressure for massive power in your shots

Lightweight yet very durable for years to come

Highly accurate with a powerful setup right out of the box

Of course, the Cressi SL Star is my recommendation for those who want the best pneumatic speargun, but there are a few others to consider if you’re not convinced yet.

Mares Sten pneumatic speargun

Second place: Best Pneumatic Speargun

The Mares Sten is our runner-up for best pneumatic speargun. Versions of this speargun have been around since 1967, and it remains a trusted speargun to this day. But what I like is the size. With a model of only 41 cm you will not find a better mini speargun for cave diving and tight places. Tested in water, this model gets you about 6 feet of distance in your shots, jumping to about 10 feet on the larger 55cm model. You won’t find a better mini gun.

7 Ratings Mares Sten Pneumatic Speargun 84 cm Optimum precision, performance and reliability

Harmonic Steel shaft (8mm diameter / 7mm external thread)

Techno-polymer shock absorber bushing and piston

High capacity air tank, uses 7 or 8mm shafts, 1/2″ (13mm) internal barrel

Complete with loader, pump, shock line with rubber shock bungee, tip and shaft

Why buy the Mares Sten pneumatic speargun:

It is the best in class mini speargun for caves and narrow dives

The smallest size (41 cm) comes with a leg holder so you always have your weapon at hand

Can be overcharged to 30 bar pressure to produce powerful shots

Right. Now that’s a good list of the best pneumatic spearguns, but it wouldn’t be complete without running my thoughts on the other pneumatic spearguns we’ve tested. Here are a few more options to help you choose the best pneumatic speargun.

Mares Cyrano Evo

Undoubtedly, the Mares Cyrano Evo is the great pneumatic speargun. It performed immediately and was the first pneumatic speargun I bought and remains one of my favorites to this day. It has a comfortable and easy-grip grip, and you can adjust the trigger as needed to suit your shooting preferences. It’s light in the water and easy to track while still being a robust and easy-to-use pneumatic speargun.

Salvimar Predathor Vuoto / Dark Side

There are a few key differences to the SalviMar Predathor Vuoto, namely their patented “Vuoto” (or vacuum) technology that prevents water from entering the barrel, making it easier to load. It also helps to fire the butt with a little more kick. The line release is in and out on the side, which is a nice feature, but it only loads to 18-20 bar (factory state), although I kicked the one we tested to 22 and it was fine (although accuracy is slight dropped). Personally it’s another great buy and if you’re looking for something quirky try the carbon fiber model. It’s essentially the same pneumatic speargun with a nice barrel upgrade.

SEAC Associate

The SEAC Asso is another neat little gun, and you could do far worse when purchasing your first pneumatic speargun. Made from an aluminum alloy cylinder, it is 40mm in diameter and you can fit up to an 8mm shaft. What I like is the regulator, which can cut off 50 percent of the pressure if you need to take a quick, close shot, and straight from the shop it comes with a pressure of 20-25 bar, which gives you a decent amount of power gives.

SEAC Caccia

Similar to this brand’s other speargun, the Asso, the SEAC Caccia is another option. Many of the technical features are the same between the two, but the main difference is the addition of a red rifle sight for easier aiming, along with a reduced diameter of the weapon’s butt to allow for better vision. Oh, and it fits 7mm shafts. It’s a little less powerful than the Asso, but it’s still a decent pneumatic speargun.

1 Ratings SEAC Caccia C/R Pneumatic speargun, 79 cm Tank with a slightly flattened shape to improve horizontal movement and buoyancy.

Piston with a reduced diameter at the tip for a more precise line of sight.

Man-engineered grip made from two soft, overprinted materials for increased comfort and grip.

Of all these spearguns, I would recommend putting your money into the Cressi SL Star. It’s reasonably priced so you don’t have to worry about your budget while still getting a great pneumatic speargun that truly is the best in its class.

Happy Spear!

How we actually determined the best pneumatic speargun

My name is Max Kelly. I spent my childhood combing the reefs in Australia and learning how to spearfish with a pole spear before embarking on banded harpoons and venturing into deeper water. I’ve been in the water chasing fish more than I (or my wife) care to admit and I’d love to share my thoughts on what makes the best pneumatic speargun.

Whether you’re taking a stealthy shore dive or jumping off a boat into a beautiful offshore reef, there are a few things you need to understand in order to understand how these special spearguns work. Because even if you have been spearfishing for years, it can be difficult to find the right speargun. There are new models and different brands. Reviews to read and understand. It can be overwhelming, and I’ve definitely wasted money on my share of duds over the years.

It’s frustrating to see a new speargun die after just a season or two.

That’s why I put this buying guide together. To help you buy the right pneumatic speargun so you can start catching fish after fish after fish. But there’s a secret I’d like to share with you. The most expensive pneumatic speargun in the store is not always the best pneumatic speargun.

Understand the background of pneumatic spearguns

There is definitely a place for pneumatic spearguns in the spearfishing community, but they are not as common as the banded models. The reason for this is that once you start reaching a certain size, they tap off. Because of what is needed to load them. Your strength (along with a loader and good technique) will determine how much pressure you can apply in the speargun while still being able to load it. Too much and you can’t reload.

Pneumatic spearguns are like the bulldogs of the underwater world. Short. burly. Often equipped with a sturdy 8mm shaft that packs a real punch. If you look at smaller sizes, they are often much stronger than their banded brethren. The downsides are that they require more maintenance to stay operational as they have far more complex internal mechanisms. Some have a switch to toggle between high and low pressure, allowing you to use the same gun for both long-range shots and short cave shots. Oh, and they can be a little louder too.

How a pneumatic speargun works

A pneumatic harpoon uses compressed air to fire a spear, using a plunger to shoot your stock out the front of the barrel once the trigger is pulled. In every way they look like any other speargun except for the oversized barrel. These are usually around 40mm or more in diameter. In the barrel of the speargun is an air chamber that you “pump” with a pressurized charge. These usually last about 20 to 30 shots before the air is used up and they have to be pressurized again.

Most pneumatic spearguns come with a hand pump for this purpose, or you can always have them pressurized at your local dive shop before a dive. We have installed a small compressor on our boat for this very purpose, it is much easier than manually re-pressurizing them by hand. All you need is an adapter for your specific pneumatic speargun and an air compressor. Just be warned. To do this, you need a high-pressure compressor (such as one used to fill scuba tanks). A cheap one like the one you use to inflate a car tire will only get you halfway. But you could always end it by hand.

Considerations when buying a pneumatic speargun

Before spending your money on the best pneumatic speargun, there are a few things to consider. But what you’ll notice when you take your first shot is the lack of a “kick” that a banded speargun offers. With a pneumatic speargun, there is simply no recoil. Which can also play a trick on you as your brain will immediately think that the weapon is bad and has no power. I have found that this is simply a misconception that you need to overcome. Especially when you start landing fish.

The right length for a pneumatic speargun

Ultimately, this is like buying another speargun. Where you plan to go spearfishing will determine the barrel length needed. But there is something to consider with a pneumatic speargun. The smaller versions actually pack far more punch than a similarly sized banded speargun. As they get longer, reload difficulty increases exponentially. Personally I like to use a pneumatic speargun up to 110cm long as for my size (5ft 10in) it is still easy to load with the right technique.

Loading Techniques for a Pneumatic Speargun

Now things are starting to get interesting. Loading a pneumatic speargun can be challenging if you have the wrong technique. Because it gets damn hard once you start using longer and longer guns. A lot of Spearos don’t actually like pneumatic spearguns because they’re a bit difficult to load. The problem is that they use the wrong technique. Or they’ve pumped it to a pressure that makes it impossible to load. My advice is to study charts and actually learn the correct moves before pressurizing your speargun and then slowly work your way up to higher and higher pressures.

If you can, find a friend who already uses a pneumatic speargun and try it out first. You’ll get an idea of ​​the “force” required to push the butt back into the ready-to-fire state and try out the loading techniques.

hip loading. This works for smaller pneumatic spearguns. Rest the butt of the gun on your hip, hold the barrel with your left hand and squeeze the charging handle with your right hand to push the stock into position.

foot strain. A similar technique, but better suited to long pneumatic spearguns. The butt of your speargun rests on your foot and grips the barrel with your left hand. Then use your right hand with the charging handle to push the stock into position.

curl shop. This is how I load my 115cm Mares Cyrano Evo as I’m just a little too small to get the foot loading technique to work when my speargun is under high pressure. I clamp the barrel of the harpoon between my legs and wrap one around it to keep it stable. My left hand keeps the barrel of the gun just below the muzzle (there is a place to grab it), and my right goes to the stock. I lower my right arm to about my shoulder (where I can’t physically move it any further) and then do what’s best described as an underwater raise. I crunch in place to bring my right and left hands together and lock the stock. It’s a bit awkward at first, but it helps me to use a speargun that has a lot more pressure than when I use the other techniques because I can use the power in my core to help load it.

How to aim a pneumatic speargun

It took a bit of getting used to using a pneumatic speargun after a lifetime of using strapped models. I can usually see my fish right down the length of my spear, but you don’t really have that ability with a pneumatic speargun. Some of the models have compensated for this and there is a slight angle, but my advice would be to just set a target and use the first few minutes of a hunt to get the hang of aiming your new speargun.

Don’t neglect maintenance

Finally, you have to think about maintenance. Because there are so many moving parts that need to work in unison, a pneumatic speargun often breaks much faster than a strapped one. The seals go, which robs your shots of power, pressure can be lost in the barrel and a host of other problems. You must use a mineral oil to keep the inside of your speargun lubricated (otherwise the friction will rob your shots of power) as it will also help the o-rings create a watertight seal and protect the inside of your pneumatic speargun from corrosion . Just don’t overdo it. A 110cm speargun uses 30-35ml of oil, more and you start taking up space in the air chamber which reduces the pressure you can load your speargun to. Instructions on how to do this and the exact amount of oil to use are included with your speargun.

What is the best pneumatic speargun for me?

Ultimately it’s up to you. I believe that the Cressi SL Star is the best pneumatic speargun, an opinion I formed after countless interviews and tests with all these different spearguns. It’s a solid speargun that will serve you well when you’re doing what matters most. Catch a fish or two for dinner.

Happy Spear!

This blog post is brought to you by the Noob Spearo Podcast. Stop by and listen to them if you want to learn more about spearfishing and improve your diving!

I have to be honest, I knew next to nothing about pneumatic spearguns until recently. I wasn’t totally uninterested but I have to admit I thought they were substandard and not really worth the consideration of any serious spearfisherman. My mind should change!

Grant Laidlaw, a Scottish Spearo, recently spent some time with me and Turbo and changed my perception by sharing his experience of switching from traditional rubber band spearguns to pneumatic spearguns. Here are some of the things I learned along the way, as well as some recommendations for those looking to try pneumatics.

How pneumatic spearguns work

Basically they have the same shaped design as a traditional speargun. The gun has an outer barrel that is typically 40mm in diameter. Inside is an internal 11-13 mm barrel with a butt. To load the gun, you actually push the stock back into the piston, which compresses the air into a sealed container. They work at pressures between 15 and 30 bar. Loading can be a challenge (you’ll see a lot of negative comments about them on forums because of this), but Grant says that while it’s not unlike the challenge of loading a longer rubber-banded gun, he says it’s more about technique than about it everything else.

Learning to aim a pneumatic harpoon

Grant’s greatest challenge with pneumatic spearguns was learning to aim them. If you’re a spearo aiming down the barrel or using some other form of weapon alignment, you may also have problems. Grant says your brain is always compensating for the visual cues it’s receiving, and it takes a while to get over that. Sticking with the new technology during this adjustment period is a clutch because your brain and eye will adapt and you will improve.

“It’s like anything else, you have to have complete confidence in the (marlin) gear you’re using and if you think too much about a shot then chances are you’ll miss. Now when I aim my speargun I know exactly where it will shoot, but it took me a long time to gain that confidence.”

Pneumatic harpoon recoil?

There is no recoil with pneumatic spearguns. Apparently that’s a big deal when you start shooting at them because it feels like the gun has no power. However, Grant’s usable range is around 7 meters, this is in stark contrast to the reduced feedback he gets from the stock, but he (and others) contend that the power of these weapons is phenomenal and underestimated, especially for reef hunting.

Loading a pneumatic harpoon

Some online spearfishing forums and articles suggest that pneumatic spearguns are only practical in shorter barrel lengths (apparently 70-90cm), in addition some people say they are cumbersome and too difficult to load. However, this is apparently not true, as I will explain. The common way many pneumatic speargun users load their gun is to rest the gun’s grip on their foot, hold the barrel with your hand, and then reach up as far as possible and the stock again down into the internal piston. As you can probably imagine, this limits the speargun’s working length. Again, Grant’s first-hand experience has taught him better and he’s developed a very methodical approach to loading.

Grant’s charging technique, which he uses with his Sporasub 115cm, goes something like this.

Basically, he grips the gun in the middle with his left hand. He sticks the spear in and then the harpoon between his knees, curls up and pulls the spear down. He says that if you master the basic technique, you can load any size pneumatic speargun.

He told a cautionary tale about increasing the internal pressure of the barrel until it was impossible to load, perhaps others do this regularly and this is another reason why they have trouble loading their pneumatic spearguns. However, there seems to be no need to overpower them as the standard pressure is more than powerful enough to propel the spear over maximum ranges. If you have the strength to grab the gun, you can load it, he says.

Misconception #1 Pneumatic spearguns are loud

The sound of a wet-barreled air pistol being fired is comparable to a shotgun being fired. Fortunately, many pneumatic devices are equipped with a dry barrel. With a dry run, the noise is almost completely eliminated. For the older pneumatic spearguns, you can convert your speargun to dry barrel with one of these conversion kits. After listening to Grant Laidlaw’s stories, I think a dry barrel sounds essential. More power, less noise and you’ll definitely scare fewer fish.

Fallacy No#2 Pneumatic Harpoons lose power at depth.

Grant says people might be able to show on paper that pneumatics can lose performance due to increased pressure, but in the real world that difference doesn’t translate when shooting fish.

Misconception #3 It takes 5 minutes to reload a pneumatic speargun

Grant has a 40 second reload time! He knows because he’s checking his dive watch while he’s pulling out some fish from the same school. Grant claims that the entire reloading process with the pneumatic harpoon is easy, but as with all things, it may take a few sessions to master your technique.

Conclusion

So between loading technique, adjusting to target requirements, understanding practical power and range, there are definitely a few hurdles to overcome, but pneumatic spearguns sound pretty cool. My opinion on them has changed and I’m not completely in the dark, that’s one of the great things about talking to Spearos from around the world. Watch all interviews on iTunes or Stitcher (Android) for free!

*Proudly sponsored by these guys – big thanks to the Adreno team!

Isaac “Shrek” Daly

Conceived as a powerful, compact speargun, it has repeatedly proven itself in reliability and performance from the weekend sport hunter to the commercial fisherman to world title competition.

The pneumatic speargun has been around since the late 1950’s, but its function is still misunderstood by many today. It consists of an airtight chamber that houses a barrel, piston, trigger mechanism, and shock absorbing device. A small amount of oil is provided to lubricate all internal components. Some models have a “Hi/Lo” pressure selector switch for fast and slow shaft outlet speeds. The factory recommended working pressure is typically 22 BAR or about 325 psi. Pressure is fully user adjustable to adapt the gun to any style of spearfishing or condition. The function of the pneumatic harpoon is to propel a steel shaft through the water quickly, precisely and quietly with the help of compressed air. Since it is a closed system and no air escapes, the harpoon can be used indefinitely. This is accomplished through the use of an O-ring sealed piston that moves the length of the cylinder. Air is pressurized in the tank through the inflation valve using a hand pump. The number of pumps required to pressurize the gun depends on the size of the gun, up to 300 pumps may be required on the larger models. In the “unloaded” gun, the butt presses against the shock absorber in the muzzle (front) of the gun. Pneumatic spearguns come from the factory at approximately 300 psi pressure. The beginner is advised to reduce the pressure until they get used to the loading process. Once this has been mastered, the pressure can be increased with the hand pump. Be careful not to get the pump or filler hole wet when pressurizing, otherwise water will enter the gun and corrosion will begin. Loading the gun should only be done under water. Begin by inserting the butt end of the stock into the muzzle of the gun. Then hold the spearhead with a loading jig while holding the gun by the muzzle and begin inserting or cocking the stock into the barrel. Rotate the loading hand by corkscrewing the stock 180 degrees as it is inserted into the barrel. This minimizes the possibility of bending the shaft. Continue loading until the shaft “locks” in the loaded position.

Spearfishing requires extreme caution, three basic rules you should always follow are: Never aim or point a speargun at anyone. Never fire the weapon outside of the water. Due to the sudden impact of the piston on the shock absorber, water must be in the barrel to soften the impact. Firing a pneumatic speargun out of water is dangerous, will damage the gun and will void any warranty. Never load a bent stock down the barrel as this will scratch the inner surface and deflate the gun. The maximum accurate shot range on most spearguns is about 3 shaft lengths from the muzzle, beyond which most experienced spearfishers will miss the shot. The longer the gun, the longer the stock, the longer the range, the higher the pressure (within limits), and the longer the butt runs in the barrel, the further the stock moves. Since most guns come from the factory with a “cold rolled” steel stock, it is recommended that you always have a spare stock when spearfishing. Best advice is to get a spring or stainless shaft for primary use with your favorite spearhead and use the one that came with the weapon as a spare. Other accessories such as line rollers and floats are available. Perhaps the most misunderstood device in the diving industry is the “hi/lo” drive on some pneumatic spear guns. Think of it as a shut-off valve to the main air reservoir, it allows the stock to be fired with a minimal amount of air, thereby firing at a slower rate. This is helpful when you are very close to your target and also avoids damaging the reef and your spearhead. Also useful when unloading the gun before exiting the water, not only does it minimize impact on the muzzle, but maintaining this setting allows for easier loading of the gun next time. The “Hi/Lo” actuator can be used to make loading a large, high pressure (300 to 380 psi) pistol easier. If the pressure is set low when loading the pistol, the air pressure building up behind the piston begins to equalize with the pressure in the main reservoir via the one-way valve. If one isn’t strong enough to load the gun in a single movement, this allows it to be stair-stepped loaded by transferring air into the main reservoir. If you let the shaft return to the no-load position, the air behind the piston is now less, making the next attempt easier. Remember that as you approach the “cocked” position, the pressure will build to the pressure in the reservoir regardless of the activator setting. It is not recommended to pressurize the gun above 26 BAR (ATMs) or about 380 psi. It doesn’t add much range, while it can reduce the life of the muzzle shock and make loading very difficult, increasing the chance of the stock bending. After use, the gun should be rinsed in fresh water (soaking for a few minutes is advisable) and kept muzzle down to allow the oil inside to wet and clean the barrel. When servicing the gun it is imperative to use a different workbench and tools than those used in regulators to avoid oil contamination. Do not use the tank filler basin when checking for air leaks as a thin layer of oil will slide on the surface. When a tank is submerged the oil covers the surface, this is particularly dangerous on the valve face as it contaminates the air charge and if O2 is used you have a very dangerous explosive situation. If the gun is being serviced, it should be pressurized for testing. If an automatic pressurization device is to be used, use a pressure regulator set at 300 psi.

DO NOT PRINT DIRECTLY BY HIGH PRESSURE. After testing, while the gun is still under pressure, it is possible to add oil with the manual pump. Return the pump lever to a point short of accessing the bleed hole, add oil to the pump (2 to 3 tablespoons), screw the gun onto the pump and turn it upside down with the muzzle pointing to the ground, push down on the pump handle and pump oil into the Weapon. Not only does this save time, but it also cleans and lubricates the inflation valve mechanism, followed by a few extra pumps to ensure proper air intake. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS: Never point a loaded gun at another person. Always seek proper training before using a speargun. Always display a diver flag. Never fire the weapon outside of the water. Never load a gun out of the water. Never bring a loaded gun on board. Never load a bent shaft. Have the gun serviced annually by a competent technician. Only skewer what you want to eat. Show maturity and consideration when handling a speargun, all other spearfishers will be judged on their actions. Be environmentally conscious, know the type, size and limit for your area. Be aware of local dive sites and conditions. Familiarize yourself with local laws. If you are not sure – do not spear. Remember, there is no substitute for security.

Think back to your science class in elementary school. When explaining the properties of light, your teacher probably pulled out a lens, prism, or even a glass of water and showed how these clear objects refract rays of light. While the concept of refraction is interesting to observe, you may have dismissed it as something that wouldn’t affect your life outside of the classroom. However, if you ever try spearfishing or bowfishing to put food on the table in a survival situation, you will immediately learn that this is an important variable to consider.

When you look at an underwater object from above, the refraction of light causes that object to appear in a different position than it actually is. Just as a drinking straw seems to bend when you put it in a glass of water, a fish seems to be somewhere below the surface of the water where it isn’t. When trying to spear a fish for survival, that small difference in visible versus actual position can mean the difference between an empty stomach and a delicious dinner.

Luckily, there’s a simple rule of thumb for spearfishing and bowfishing: Aim low. Well… that’s at least a good starting point. How far below the visible fish you need to aim depends on your approach angle, the water depth, and even the size of your target.

The following diagram from The Fisheries Blog shows how it works:

If the fish is closer to the surface or you’re aiming almost straight down, you don’t need to aim much lower. If it’s swimming deeper under the surface and you’re at a shallower angle, you need to compensate more for the refraction.

The following 1 minute video from Diamond Archery explains the basics of this concept:

This allows you to aim 6 inches below your target for every foot of depth between the fish and the water surface, assuming you are shooting or spearing at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.

This takes practice, but it’s important to remember if you ever need to spearfish or bowfish in a survival situation. If you aim straight for the fish you see you will almost certainly miss and after many failed attempts you may end up frustrated and hungry. So remember, if you’re trying to hit an underwater target, aim low.

My first real harpoon was a Nemrod pneumatic torpedo. Someone gave it to me when I was a teenager and it looked like a ray gun.

Before that I had a small band gun which was useful for annoying carp. Once shot, they would shoot off into the distance only to suddenly return and stare at me; “WTAF?” they seemed to say, now maybe a single scale is missing.

Not so with the torpedero. It definitely had some issues, but it was a hit at close range.

This is how my interest in pneumatic spearguns began.

Potential Boredom Warning: This section is a brief discussion of pneumatic spearguns – their merits and demerits and general considerations compared to ribbon guns. If you already know all of these things, feel free to jump ahead.

Pneumatic spearguns work with compressed air (and oil). Inside the cylinder is a piston with seals to keep air from escaping. It slides between the sear and a stop at the end of the barrel – using compressed air as a “spring”. Weapons are loaded by pushing the spear down the barrel, further compressing the air in the weapon and driving the piston down until it catches the trigger. No air is lost when shooting.

Legacy Pneumatics fires a relatively short, thick spear with plenty of power. They typically pack a lot of power at short range and generate that power in a small package compared to belt guns.

A number of innovations have emerged over the years. One is that many guns now use a narrower stock and barrel. 13mm is the standard, but many use an 11mm piston. The idea is that less surface area and volume (of the water in the barrel) means the piston has to push a smaller column of water through the barrel along with the spear. Such guns shoot faster and use a lighter stock (6.5-7mm – as opposed to the traditional 8mm). It’s a balance of speed and momentum.

The next big innovation was a seal at the muzzle, making the barrel airtight. Airtight means no water column – so the piston slides with much less resistance. These “vacuum barreled” guns shoot very quickly and far, and do so with less pressure, making them easier to load.

In return for their excellent performance/size ratio, there are some downsides.

Complexity and Durability: The basic idea of ​​pneumatic spearguns is simple; sealed compressed air used as spring. When implementing, ensure that the o-rings and piston remain lubricated and intact to prevent air leakage. Every seal is a potential point of failure.

Modern pneumatics also differ from previous models in that they have polymer pistons. Although they are faster and lighter than metal pistons, they can crack – especially at the higher velocities found in vacuum barreled models (most often this is caused by gun over-pressurization).

Blue Water (aka really big, hard, fish at longer ranges): Since the stock must be pushed down the barrel to load the gun, longer stocks’ range and tendency to flex are limiting factors for the life of a pneumatic speargun can be.

Current pneumatic devices reach a length of just over a meter (the Salvimar Dark Side 99.9 model is 115 cm long, others even 130 cm). The video below is a range and penetration test for the Salvimar Predathor Vuoto (pneumatic vacuum barrel) 100 firing an 8mm stock at 24 bar.

The review

Having bought myself excess time for research and lust for random dive objects due to the pandemic, I found myself a bit embarrassed when looking at spearguns.

I have followed the development of Salvimar’s innovative and stylish offerings in the freediving world and was intrigued when I came across their “Vuoto” or vacuum barreled gun line. They looked cool and I had never tried a pneumatic vacuum before. I thought it would be interesting to try one.

Since it was just before the holiday season, I contacted Santa directly. To my delight, he (aka Stephan Whelan, August Patriarch of DeeperBlue) put me in touch with Maverick America’s Mark Labocetta.

I met Mark when I covered the recent Omer Hatteras Open for DeeperBlue.com – my first foray into blue water diving. At the time, Mark was Omer’s US representative through his company Technosport.

Mark is a consummate Spearo and a genuinely nice guy who not only failed to relentlessly taunt me but even tried to restore my machismo by telling me off from everyone else as I lay on the deck between exaggerated lifts Told people that ‘d thrown on his boat. (Point of Pride; out of the 36 times I threw up on that first trip, I didn’t throw up once on the boat.) I recovered and after a day off, experienced one of the most incredible underwater environments I’ve ever seen experienced have seen

Mark has agreed to send me a sample of the premium Salvimar Dark Side. He suggested the Dark Side 99.9, but I asked for the smallest model – because I swim with a monofin and I loathe anything that messes with my streamline, and I thought a small model would reflect the stunning length-to-range ratio of these weapons best demonstrate would supposedly have.

Within days, the UPS man came up the driveway with a tiny, lightweight box. Inside was a tiny, light speargun…

First impression

Firmly. Really solid. And very light. Extremely cool looking too. The carbon fiber barrel of this little jet gun makes it nearly neutral in water.

I rigged it with 3 wraps of monofilament – which put the spearhead a little over 3 meters (approx. 10’4″) from the end of the weapon. I didn’t expect it to shoot that far but wanted to create the opportunity.

I also wanted to test at factory pressure – 18 bar, so I didn’t add air with the supplied pump – although I expected the cold water might lower the pressure.

In water

Thus equipped, we set off for the rapidly cooling waters of West Grand Traverse Bay (North Lower Michigan) in late November. Water and Air were both 43f (6c) with sun and a brisk north wind. Visibility was fantastic – easily 60+ feet.

The gun floats without the stock (in fresh water no less!) and is hardly negative when in. (Check out the video below of a longer model floating in salt water.)

Once loaded, it’s about 1/2″ shorter than my arm from shoulder to middle fingertip. When I’m swimming with my monofin, I can hold the gun near the muzzle and it fuses into my arm – there’s almost no drag.

With the grip in my hip crease, the gun was stable and comfortable when loading. My suit is sleek and I had no qualms about damaging it – which can be an issue with these suits and banded weapons.

Note: These vacuum barrel guns should NEVER be loaded out of the water. Water helps lubricate the seal at the muzzle, and dry loading can damage it.

The Dark Side pneumatics come with Salvimar’s “Race Kit” which includes a custom piston, line release and adjustable trigger.

The shutter button was pretty transparent to me until I took a bunch of shots to test it out. It’s the best I’ve seen on a harpoon – which is important because this little gun has so little mass that a bad trigger would make aiming extremely difficult. The large trigger guard easily fit my 5 mil 3 finger gloves.

Performance, range and accuracy

This gun shoots very well. Very fast, laser accurate and solid to the end of the line. It’s also a lot of fun, between the easy loading and the sweet trigger, we found ourselves in water target shooting until we were shaking too much to aim and our fingers stopped working.

For our testing, we used a 18 x 35 cm (7 x 14 inch) piece of 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) thick plywood suspended loosely in the water by paracord attached to a weight. The idea was that the small piece of plywood would move slightly on impact – making it harder to penetrate.

I was expecting a convincing dent at 8 feet or so, but instead the tip got way out on the other side, nestled behind the barb hinge. Within about 6 feet (2 m) it tended to blow about 1/2 shaft length through the board. Even at 10 feet (3 m) it embedded until it ran out of line. For the legal and edible species in this area, I would comfortably shoot at around 9 feet.

For heavier or hard-scaled fish, the gun can take an 8mm shaft and pressure up to 24 bar.

Durability, Maintenance and Parts

Pneumatics generally hold up well if not abused – and the Salvimar guns have a solid reputation. But they have more potential points of failure than tape guns, so it’s good to have a reliable source of replacement parts.

Mark suggested looking at Spearfishingworld for parts and repairs. I have dealt with them over the years and their customer support is knowledgeable and friendly. On their website I found everything from seal kits to pistons and muzzle seals to trigger devices, all at very reasonable prices. Salvimar has done an excellent job with the logistics and common repair items are readily available.

I ordered a set of three muzzle seals for about $18 and had them within three days. I’ve fired the gun a few times and had no problems, but it seems reasonable to treat the seals like ribbons for ribbon guns and keep a few. The change is very easy and, if your fingers are not frozen, you can even do it in the water.

Conclusions

The Salvimar Dark Side pneumatic spearguns have a well deserved reputation for excellent ergonomics, excellent performance and quality. These vacuum barrel guns fire at higher velocities than traditional pneumatic guns and offer impressive range in a very compact and well designed package.

This small model shoots extremely fast and far for its size and feels very natural in the hand. It’s the handiest and funniest speargun I’ve ever used.

Dark side weapons are a little expensive. If the superb balance of the carbon fiber barrel isn’t worth it to you (especially on a longer gun!), the Vuoto models offer the same performance at a lower price point.

Specifications and Features

“Blank” header

High modulus Pre-Peg TW-K03 carbon fiber cylindrical tank

Inner barrel ø 13mm

Perfectly balanced suspension

Line of sight printed in the blank

Race kit as standard

Glass-filled nylon handle

Including power controller

Side release of “Dynamic Four”.

Pacific Air rod as standard

Predisposition for Salvimar role

7mm Tahitian shank

Price

Salvimar Dark Side – 55 cm – 420 USD / 275 EUR

Salvimar Dark Side – 85cm – $494 / €323

Salvimar Dark Side – 115 cm – 550 USD / 380 EUR

More info & buy

Harpoons are pretty basic, but if you haven’t used one you probably have no idea how they work. In this guide I will explain the parts of the speargun, how they work and how you can use a speargun to successfully land a fish.

Most spearguns in use today are belt powered. A strap-powered harpoon works like a combination crossbow and slingshot. The weapon is loaded by stretching strong rubber bands from the end of the barrel to the back of the spear. When the trigger is pulled, the spear is released and the rubber band snaps, propelling the spear forward. Less common are compressed air guns, which are fired by a sudden release of pressurized CO2.

That’s the basic explanation, but there’s a lot more to it than that. Read on to learn all the parts of the weapon, how to keep the spear attached to the weapon, and how spearos land big fish without them swimming away with the weapon or dragging the spearo down.

The parts of a harpoon

Almost every harpoon has at least one handle with a trigger, a barrel and a spear. The spear has a “firing line” that connects it to the weapon so the fish cannot just swim away with the spear. There is also almost always a firing line release, which keeps line slack out of the way and releases it when the gun is fired. Here is a detailed breakdown of each part.

The speargun shown in this manual is my Mako Predator Pro. You can read more about it in my Mako Predator Pro review or grab one here on Amazon

The handle

Most spearguns have a pistol grip with a trigger, safety, line release, and a mechanism that locks the spear in place. When the safety is engaged the trigger is locked, but when it is disengaged it can be pulled. Pulling the trigger releases the spear, the rubber bands snap back, propelling the spear toward the target fish. Pulling the trigger also releases the firing line at the same time, giving it enough slack to reach the target (more on how the firing line works below).

The barrel

The barrel gives the spear shaft a place to sit and guides it straight when fired. Barrels can be made from almost any material, but they are commonly made from wood, steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber. The rear of the barrel is connected to the grip, and the muzzle sits at its end.

Barrel length is important and different styles of spearfishing require different lengths. For close quarters hunting and searching under rocks and in caves for fish, a smaller rifle is more maneuverable. For this, the shortest guns are used, usually 50–75 cm (19.7–29.5 in) long.

In the medium range, guns from 80 to 115 cm (31.5 to 45 in) are the most versatile and can be used in both shorter and longer range situations. These are often referred to as “reef guns” because you’ll typically use them near coral reefs or areas with a lot of boulders, where you’ll both shoot fish hiding in the rocks and swim near the reef in open water .

The longest barrels are on ‘blue water guns’, which range from about 120 to 160 cm (47 to 63 in). These are used to target big game fish, usually in deep water. Speargun lengths are almost always measured in centimeters, even in the US.

The snout

At the end of the barrel is the muzzle, which has several important functions. Note that on some guns, especially wooden ones, the muzzle is just the end of the barrel, not a separate part. The first thing the muzzle does is anchor the elastics. To get a full stretch, these need to be right at the end of the run. The muzzle also has two hooks or grooves that the firing line runs across (full explanation of how this works, below). There is also an attachment point where the firing line attaches to the gun, usually with a rubber cord to allow it to stretch. Finally, there is usually a line guide through which a reel line can be run if the gun is equipped with a reel.

The rubber bands

Pistols usually have one or two rubber bands, but it’s not uncommon to see three or even four on larger pistols. Naturally, the more straps that are stretched backwards, the more tension is placed on the javelin, causing it to shoot faster and farther when the trigger is pulled. A band can consist of either two pieces of rubber, each anchored to one side of the muzzle, or a single piece passing through a hole in the end of the barrel.

A tape with a soft Dyneema wishbone

Where the strap hooks onto the javelin, there is a gap in the rubber and a so-called “wishbone” connects the two ends. The wishbone grips the javelin, the rubber is far too thick for that. Control arms can be made from metal or from a high-strength cord, usually Dyneema.

the spear

The spear is a hard steel shaft with a sharp point. Behind the tip is a flopper, a piece of metal riveted to the spear shaft so it can flip open to hold a fish. The flopper sits mostly flush with the javelin when closed, so when you let go of the javelin it is streamlined and doesn’t slow it down. The flap is also under the spear so once it goes through a fish gravity will open it and (hopefully) secure your catch. The spear is longer than the weapon itself, so the tip of the spear and the flapper always protrude past the end of the weapon’s barrel.

Sharkfin tabs on the spear

At the very back of the spear is a hole drilled where the shooting line is attached. There is also a notch here that engages the trigger mechanism to hold it in place until fire. A short distance before that, the wishbones attach the straps to the javelin. The control arm either sits in a notch cut in the steel or on a small piece of steel welded to the top called a “sharkfin tab”. There is usually one notch or shark fin tab per band on the weapon.

The role

Spearguns can be set up either with or without a reel. When spearfishing without a reel, you typically use a floating line—a line that attaches your weapon to a float at the surface. Big fish are much stronger in the water than you are, and once you’ve taken one down, you’ll need to return to the surface to breathe. When using a floating line, simply drop the gun and fight the fish by “playing” with the floating line.

A reel gun works differently. With this setup, the javelin attaches to the shot cord, which attaches to your reel cord. If you are shooting a big fish, hold the gun and run the fish and pull line from the reel. Then, once you’re back on the surface, play the fish with this reel line, either by winding the line up or by pulling hand by hand.

How the shooting line works

That’s the part of the harpoon I never understood until I actually held my first gun in my hands. I searched and searched and could not find an explanation, which is one of the reasons I am writing this guide all these years later. It’s actually pretty awesome how it works. Note that there are two common setups, spearguns with reels and spearguns without. I’ll explain the standard firing line first, and then show the slight difference in mounting it for a reel gun.

Harpoons don’t have great range, but they can still be a few times longer than the barrel length, which means the line of fire connecting the spear to the weapon needs to be around three times the length of the barrel. The line needs to be secured in place so it doesn’t tangle and scare fish, and it needs to run freely behind the spear when it’s fired and not slow it down.

Setting up the shooting line

It’s hard to explain in words how this works, but I’ll do my best. The photos should help, but watching the video above should make it a lot easier to understand. Let’s follow the line of fire to see how this works for standard and single role weapons:

The line starts at the back of the spear, which is now locked in the hilt

From here the line runs to the end of the barrel where it passes under a hook on one side of the muzzle and then crosses over the top of the spear

After crossing the spear, the line falls down on the other side and passes through a groove at the end of the gun barrel. The line of fire wrapped over the spear prevents the spear from falling off the weapon as it only locks on the trigger mechanism

The cord then runs back along the bottom of the barrel and hooks back around the cord release near the grip

From the line release, the line runs back about halfway down the bottom of the barrel and attaches to the free end of the bungee cord

The other end of the shock cord attaches to the muzzle, completing the connection between the spear and the weapon

Firing line on a reel pistol

The structure is slightly different for a harpoon with a reel. The shooting line still hooks over the top of the spear, then back up the barrel and around the cord release, then travels halfway back up the barrel but that’s where it attaches to the end of the reel cord. The shock cable is removed.

The shooting line hooks around the line release and then goes up the gun, past the same side of the reel as before

Then the weft cord is attached to the end of the reel cord

From where the end of the reel line connects to the firing line, it runs through this line guide at the muzzle and then runs along the gun back to the reel