Slab Mat For Clay? The 127 Detailed Answer

3 shares Facebook

Twitter

pinterest 3

Affiliate Disclaimer

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. It helps me keep the website running. Thank you for your support.

Keilton is a very good idea when making pottery on a potter’s wheel. But do you need to wedge clay when building your pottery by hand? I love building pottery by hand and I don’t love wedging! So that was one of the questions I asked myself when I started making things out of clay. That I have learned…

If the clay you are using is newly purchased and damp, wedging the clay when building by hand is not essential. However, if the clay has an inconsistent texture, moisture, or contains air pockets, it is best to wedge it. If the clay isn’t wedged, it can be difficult to hand build even smooth shapes.

Why not pin this post for later as well?

To wedge or not to wedge clay when building by hand?

There are several reasons for clay wedging. Let’s take a quick look at each of these reasons and consider if they apply to hand building…

consistency

The first reason is that it evens out the consistency of the tone. Sometimes clay has sections that are harder and drier than others. If you wedge, you will get rid of the stains of dry and wet clay. After wedging, the clay should be smoother and less lumpy or chunky.

Throwing clay at a wheel that has an uneven consistency is difficult. This is because parts of the clay thin out faster than others. So you can end up with a piece that has walls of an uneven thickness.

Hand build with uneven clay

The same goes for hand building. Whatever hand building technique you use, it will be more difficult to produce an evenly shaped mold if the clay is of an uneven consistency. For example, if you’re trying to roll a roll of clay, some sections of the roll will likely be thicker than others.

It’s difficult to roll an evenly shaped spool if your clay is lumpy. The same applies when you pinch your pottery. As you pinch, your hands will find it easier to thin out some sections of sound than others. This will likely result in a pinch pot with uneven walls.

When building slabs and rolling out your clay with a rolling pin, clumpy clay can be a problem. It is difficult to roll a flat slab of clay when part of the clay is soft and other part is hard.

Of course, you can also use a slab roller, which will produce a slab of even thickness. Or you can use strips of wood on either side of the rolling pin to keep the board even.

This will help you get a slab that looks even. However, if some parts of the clay are denser than others, then your piece could dry unevenly. If clay dries unevenly, it can stress the pottery and crack it.

get rid of air bubbles

Another important reason for wedging is to remove air bubbles in the clay.

It is often said that air bubbles in your clay will cause pottery to explode in the kiln. Strictly speaking, this is not true.

It’s not the air bubbles themselves that cause the explosion. Rather, when the ceramic is fired, the moisture in the clay turns into steam and expands into air pockets in the clay. This puts pressure on the pottery and causes the clay to crack.

Technically, air bubbles in the clay do not cause a firing problem, provided the clay is bone dry before firing.

However, air bubbles in the clay make processing difficult. This is true regardless of whether you make your pottery on the potter’s wheel or build it by hand.

When throwing rad, an air bubble in the clay can cause the clay to become askew and off-center.

But even when building by hand, a bubble in the clay can make the surface uneven. When you pinch, coil, or plate clay and pop a stray bubble, it can cause a dent or dip in the clay. This creates a small area in the clay that is thinner than the rest. Which can be enough to spoil an otherwise nice, flat surface on your piece.

So there are some good reasons to wedge clay when building pottery by hand.

However, whether wedging is necessary depends on the modeling clay used. So let’s look at that now…

What clay do you use?

While there are good reasons to wedge clay when building by hand, it’s not always necessary.

If you bought a bag of clay from a pottery supplier, it will come in a sealed plastic bag. This clay was made by a manufacturer. The raw materials are mined, blended, ground, refined and then extruded through a large pug mill.

When clay comes out of the industrial mortar mill, it has been vented. It has also been treated to have a consistent moisture content and density. If you want to learn more about the best clay for hand building, you can check out this article I wrote on the very subject.

Commercial pug grinder

Encik Tekateki, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

This allows new clay to be cut from the pack and used without being wedged. When I have a new batch of clay I generally don’t wedge it.

However, if the sound has been sitting around in my sound cabinet for months, it may have dried out a bit. When clay sits unused in its clay bag, moisture evaporates, even through the plastic. The outside of the clay is likely to be drier and harder than the inside layer.

So it can be helpful to wedge clay when building by hand. Wedging evens out the moisture content in clay that has been left unused.

Recycled Clay?

If you’re reusing clay or recycling from scraps, it’s important to hand-wedge clay when building. Clay that is reused or recycled has a mix of different moisture levels. Some will be very dry and other parts will likely be very wet like mud. When reusing or recycling clay, it’s important to wedge it really well before throwing or hand building with the clay.

While not fun, wedging is the only way to get your recycled clay into a reusable state. Some potters have a mops grinder in their studio. This comes in handy when you make a lot of pottery. However, most potters I know who have a mops grinder say that cleaning the mops grinder after use is more of a hassle than wedging the clay.

Final Thoughts

So the conclusion is that unless you’re using pristine new clay straight from the bag, it’s best to wedge clay when building by hand. Wedging might not be the funniest way to spend time in the studio. However, it helps avoid the disappointment of a pot with uneven or pitted surfaces. Or cracked clay when it dries.

191 shares Facebook

Twitter

Pinterest 191

Affiliate Disclaimer

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. It helps me keep the website running. Thank you for your support.

A custom built wedge table is an additional expense that you may want to avoid. If that’s the case, then don’t stress. There are many inexpensive and easy ways to find the perfect wedge surface for your studio.

A wedge surface must have some grip. If it’s too smooth, your clay will just slide over the top when you try to wedge. It also needs to be somewhat absorbent. If it’s too absorbent, it will draw too much moisture out of your clay. But if it’s not absorbent enough, you can’t use it to prepare clay that’s too wet.

Here are some great ideas for materials that will make a good clay wedge surface that won’t break the bank.

13 clay wedge surface ideas

Check out these ideas. You may find that you already own something that would make a perfect clay wedge surface.

1) Unpolished stone

Leftover stone from a kitchen renovation. Unpolished stone makes a great wedge surface. It can be expensive to buy firsthand. However, it is sometimes possible to get your hands on a piece cheaply or for free.

Well suited types of stone are marble, quartz, granite or slate. So if you just installed a new kitchen countertop, order 2 or 3 feet more than you need. Or you can get a free rest from a countertop manufacturer.

If you try to wedge yourself on polished marble, the clay will simply slide across the surface. But if you turn it smooth side down and use the polished underside, it will be a perfect wedge surface. Some kitchen stones are polished on both sides, so it’s good to know that you need an unpolished side.

There are other places where you might stumble upon a beautiful old stone surface. Some vintage end tables or end tables are edged with a stone finish. If you can take out the betting stone and flip it, this is a perfect wedge table.

Because the stone is embedded, it won’t move when you wedge it. You may need to adjust the table a bit to make it heavy enough not to move when wedged. But basically this is a great option.

The other great thing about unpolished stone is that it’s easy to clean. Granite kitchen surfaces are notorious for picking up stains. So when you wedge terracotta, you may find that the stone discolors a bit.

However, if you remove the excess before using a tone of a different color, discoloration shouldn’t be a problem.

2) Stretched canvas on your clay wedge surface

You can turn most tables into a wedge table by stretching the canvas tightly over it. Find an old table or dresser, stretch the canvas over it and staple the canvas in place. The kind of staplers that upholsterers use make short work of it.

Wedges are physical and you need a surface that won’t slide around or bounce as you wedge.

If your table or dresser is a bit flimsy, this may not be the ideal item. Use a solid and heavy table or adapt the existing one.

You can make tables heavier by adding a shelf under the wedge surface. Store something heavy, like your clay supplies on the shelf.

If there is a drawer under the wedge surface, fill it with concrete or concrete blocks. It is possible to pour wet concrete into a drawer and let it set.

If you do this, make sure the edges of the drawer are sealed so the concrete doesn’t spill out as you pour. You can seal them with a construction sealant. Or you can run a clay bead around the edge to plug it.

You must wipe the canvas between wedging sessions. Even with regular wiping, some potters find that the canvas still gets a little crusty. If your table is relatively mobile, you can put it in the backyard and hose it down with a sponge or hose.

If you enjoy canvas wedges but don’t feel confident stretching it, you can purchase a canvas covered board. They are an inexpensive option and are available in packs of 10 from Blick. Buying in bulk means you can use a different board for different clay bodies.

3) An old changing table

You can buy these used and they are very cheap. The top of a changing table has built up sides. If you’ve never changed a baby’s butt, it’s a little hard to explain.

However, the top of the changing table is designed to contain a rubber mattress for the baby to lie on. If you remove the mattress, you have the perfect depth insert for filling with plaster or concrete.

The raised sides are usually about 2 inches high. Closing any gaps between the tabletop and the edges, you can pour plaster or concrete into the insert.

Some changing tables are a little flimsy and light. So you may need to beef them up a bit to make them more stable. Others, however, are quite solid.

This is one of the wedge tables I use. I had an old changing table with drawers underneath. I fill the drawers with my clay that makes the table heavy. And put some concrete slabs in the bottom drawer.

4) A wedge surface of cast gypsum clay

Gypsum is a fairly common choice for a clay wedge surface. It is versatile as it can be cast into different constructions. I’ve even heard of potters filling old cupboard drawers with plaster and using that as a wedge surface.

You can fill many different types of containers with plaster and use the surface to wedge. Assuming the container can be secured somehow so it won’t move when wedged.

Alternatively, you can construct a wooden frame attached to plywood or MDF and fill it with plaster. The gaps in the frame would need to be sealed before you pour in the plaster.

One of the problems with plaster of paris is that plaster flakes can sometimes get into your clay. These bits can cause problems with firing as they can cause your pottery to crack or explode.

There are different types of plaster. A fine pottery plaster is tougher and less likely to flake than Parisian plaster. Therefore, using a potter’s plaster such as Pottery’s Plaster #1 can reduce the risk of flaking.

Some potters cover their gypsum wedge surface with stretched canvas to avoid any possibility of flakes contaminating the clay with flakes.

5) Gypsum board clay wedge surface

Gypsum plasterboard is a good alternative to pouring plaster. There are several brands of plasterboard, including drywall and sheetrock.

The advantage of using plasterboard is that it can be easily cut to size. And the surface is sealed so it won’t contaminate your clay.

If you decide to use plasterboard as the wedge surface, you should seal the edges. You can do this by simply running tape along the edge. This will help prevent crumbs and flakes from getting into your clay from the edges.

Other advantages of using plasterboard are that they can be screwed to a solid table surface. You can also have different boards for different bodies of clay to avoid mixing different tones. Just swap out the board if you want to use a different type of tone.

However, if you prefer to avoid plaster altogether, concrete is a good alternative.

Concrete is tougher than plaster and is less likely to flake and contaminate your clay. So let’s look at the options you have with concrete…

6) wedge surface made of pourable concrete clay

Instead of using cast plaster, you can also use cast concrete for your wedge surface. Just use any of the above containers that you like and replace the plaster with concrete.

However, if you’d rather not use flowable concrete, other solid concrete options work well for wedging. So, let’s explore these…

7) Concrete Pavers

If you’re looking for an inexpensive, easily accessible wedge surface, concrete is your friend. A concrete pavement is great because it’s all about the right surface. It can be used on the floor. Or it can be attached to a table top.

There are numerous ways you can attach a concrete paver to a tabletop. One option would be to screw wooden slats around the paving stone. This way the paver would not slide around on the table top.

A problem with concrete pavers is that they are often quite textured. This doesn’t bother everyone, but if you want a smoother wedge surface, you should try concrete slabs.

8) concrete slab

Another concrete option is concrete slabs. It is also known as cement board. Many potters like to use HardieBacker boards, which are made of cement, sand, and fiber.

The good thing about cement board, no matter what brand you choose, is that you can easily cut it to size. It is soft enough to be easily cut with a regular saw or jigsaw. So you can cut a piece to match your tabletop and attach it to the table.

You can screw or clamp it to your table. Or if you want, you can create a support for the board to sit in using wooden slats. The good thing about battening the board is that it protects the edges of the board.

Concrete slabs can be a little friable around the edges. You want to avoid getting the crumbs in your clay. And you also want to avoid breathing in the concrete dust. So it’s a good idea to either seal or tape the edges. Or secure the board with wooden slats so that the edges do not get damaged and crumble.

One advantage of cement board, however, is that provided the edges are protected, the surface will not crumble. As a wedge of clay, it stands out from the plaster.

An added benefit is that cement board doesn’t generate much clay dust. This is one of the complaints potters have about canvas. All in all, concrete slab is a good, cheap and versatile option.

9) The concrete floor

Did I mention Concrete was your boyfriend? Well, when all else fails, a clean, swept concrete floor can be a perfect wedge surface. Let’s face it, you won’t have any problems with the floor shaking or sliding around if you get wedged. No need to carry or store it. It’s easy to clean. And it costs nothing.

If you have a concrete floor in your studio, you can have a special wedge corner. You can keep this relatively clean and free of debris on the floor. job done.

One downside to using a concrete floor is that you have to get on your hands and knees. While this may be fine if you’re in your 20s, it’s not an option for everyone.

10) A sheet of wood

If you don’t want to use concrete for your clay wedge surface, you can opt for wood. A plain sheet of plywood is a good, flexible option. This can be screwed to a table top, dresser or counter. Or, if you want a moveable solution, you can secure it with screw clamps.

I like the plywood option because it doesn’t crumble or peel like plaster or drywall. And it can be wiped over and over again. Another way to avoid cross-contamination of clays is to use one plate for light tone and another for dark tone.

One of the advantages of a wooden surface is that it can be sanded down over time. Over time, a wooden wedge surface can become somewhat grainy and worn away by the moisture in the clay. This is easily fixed by giving it a light sand.

An alternative wood option is an MDF board, which is also easily fixed to a solid surface. MDF can also be wiped clean after use. However, it does feel a bit spongy after repeated use.

11) An old wooden table

If wood is your preferred base for clay wedges, an old heavy wooden table is also a good option. The table would have to be unpainted or old enough for the paint to wear off.

Unvarnished wood has enough grip to form a great wedge surface. And it’s nicely absorbent without stripping too much moisture from your clay. What could be easier than using an old wooden table?

If your wooden table has a painted surface, you can sand it down. Or you can cover it with canvas or even an old bed sheet. Sheets are thinner than linen, so you need to pull them taut to keep them from wrinkling when wedged. Still, an old bed sheet can be an effective, really inexpensive wedge surface.

It can be a good idea to add some height to the table legs. This will ensure the surface is the correct height to the wedge. Just remember to use a level so you don’t get stuck on a slope!

12) A wooden club

Some potters like to wedge themselves directly onto their grinding head. Wedging requires the surface to be somewhat absorbent and “grippy”. So if you want to wedge your wheel head, you need to use a wooden mallet as the wedge surface.

The wheel head is a relatively small area to wedge on, but it is very solid. So if you want to keep your pottery supplies to a minimum, this is an easy solution.

13) Diatomaceous Earth Board

An inventive proposal as a ceramic wedge surface is diatomaceous earth plate. This product is highly absorbent and antibacterial. It has many uses including being used as a solid bath mat. However, it is also used for wedging by some potters.

One of the key properties of diatomaceous earth is that it is absorbent. Because of this, it’s helpful to wedge clay that’s a bit muddy.

If your clay is a little dry, then avoiding this finish might be an idea. But it’s a handy option in the studio when trying to recycle very wet clay.

More tips on your clay wedge surface

Here are a few more tips to keep in mind when choosing your wedge surface.

The height of your wedge surface

Wedging is a bit physically demanding and can be tough on your wrists. It’s a good idea to take some time to get your wedge surface to the correct height. This will vary from person to person.

However, one way to estimate the correct height is to stand to your side with your hands relaxed. The common wisdom is that your wedge surface should be parallel to your fingertips when they hang down.

When customizing a table, you may need to trim the legs to get it to the correct height for chocking. Or you might need to increase the height a bit depending on the dimensions of what you’re using.

stabilization of your wedge surface

Wedging means pushing the clay around and sometimes slamming it. This can cause your clay wedging surface to slip and bounce around. So it’s a good idea to find a way to keep your wedge face in one place.

The way you keep it static depends on the surface you’re using. If you use a heavy table or dresser, this is not a problem. Otherwise you can improvise with screw clamps, wooden struts and a non-slip mat.

Alternatively, you can push your table against a wall. Or better yet, you can build a fold-down wedge table. This has the added benefit of saving you space when not in use.

Final Thoughts

Most potters will admit that wedges are not their favorite part of pottery. However, thoroughly wedging your clay will make your life a lot easier, especially when throwing on the wheel. Finding a tone wedge surface that suits you is one way to make the wedging experience less taxing.

Here are tips to help you enjoy SlabMat even more.

When cutting clay directly onto SlabMat, a wooden or blunt metal trimming knife is recommended. Be sure to limit the sharpness of the cutting tool and the pressure applied when cutting to avoid permanent damage to the mat.

For the smoothest slabs, use a SlabMat on both sides of the clay slab, with the smooth side of the SlabMat touching the clay.

A long piece of SlabMat can be used for small slabs of clay folded over on top of themselves with the clay sandwiched between them. If the mat is crumpled, the crease will remain permanent.

SlabMat can be used in conjunction with other materials such as heavyweight paper or fabric to give one side of a clay slab a defined texture while leaving the opposite side completely smooth.

If you have trouble with the SlabMat sliding on a smooth surface, a piece of rubber pad can be used underneath for extra grip.

If your clay is sticking to SlabMat, your clay may be too wet. This can easily be remedied by lightly dusting the mat with cornstarch. Cornstarch reduces sticking and burns off when burned.

Do not store your clay on SlabMat after use.

Unlike canvas, the SlabMat can be used to roll multiple slabs in a studio session before it becomes too saturated and clay sticks.

Prolonged wet conditions can cause the SlabMat to become wavy, but it can be dried between two boards (drywall) to flatten it out again.

SlabMat absorbs stains from your colored clay. We recommend a set of mats for each color or tone used in your studio (white, red, porcelain, etc.)

If you can roll your clay on canvas, you can roll your clay on SlabMat!

Prepare your clay for the potter’s wheel on the Xiem X-Board Wedging Board. The X-Board is easy to transport, so you can work with sound anywhere. I…

The art form of pottery, also known as pottery, is simply defined as the shaping and then firing of a body of clay at a high temperature into a permanently hard object. This involves choosing the right ceramic clay and the right tools to use to shape your piece.

Pottery clay (also known as ceramic clay or wet clay) is all water-based and must be fired in a kiln to become vitrified in order to become permanent. The main types of clay bodies are earthenware and stoneware, which typically turn red, brown, white, or a variation thereof on firing.

Working with polymer clay can be a relaxing and enjoyable experience, but having your clay constantly stuck to your countertop, rolling pin, molds, or even your own fingers can be a frustrating mess.

If your crafting experience is being ruined by sticky polymer clay, there are a number of things you can try:

Harden the clay by placing in the freezer for 5-10 minutes or by leaching out excess oils by pressing the clay between two pieces of paper.

Use the right surface when working with the clay – in general, any shiny surface usually means clay won’t stick to it.

Use parchment paper or plain office paper on the clay when rolling.

Apply a mold release solution like cornmeal to the mold before placing your clay in it.

That’s a quick overview, but below I’ll go deep into working with sticky polymer clay, including tried-and-true tips from my own experience.

What surface can I roll polymer clay onto without it sticking?

Avoid the frustration of polymer clay sticking to your rolling surface by trying the following finishes:

Ceramic Tile – A large glazed ceramic tile is one of the best materials to roll out polymer clay on. The best part is that you can pop the tile in the oven and bake your model on it. It is inexpensive and easy to clean.

– A large glazed ceramic tile is one of the best materials to roll out Fimo on. The best part is that you can pop the tile in the oven and bake your model on it. It is inexpensive and easy to clean. GLASS CUTTING BOARD – You might have this in your kitchen anyway, and it provides a super smooth, tack-free surface for rolling clay. Some glass cutting boards have a slightly textured surface, in which case simply turn the board over and use the underside, which is usually smooth.

– This is something you might have in your kitchen anyway and provides a super smooth, tack-free surface for rolling clay. Some glass cutting boards have a slightly textured surface, in which case simply turn the board over and use the underside, which is usually smooth. Laminate Countertop or Tabletop – If your kitchen worktops or table has a laminate surface it is ideal for preparing your clay and the clay will not stick to it. The only downside to using these surfaces is that when you’re halfway through and someone wants to cook or eat their lunch, it’s not as easy to get your model out of the way!

– If your kitchen work surfaces or table has a laminate surface, this is ideal for preparing your clay and the clay will not stick to it. The only downside to using these surfaces is that when you’re halfway through and someone wants to cook or eat their lunch, it’s not as easy to get your model out of the way! A Plastic Placemat – If you have children, you may already have one in your kitchen. They’re super cheap, super portable, and a great interface for working with clay.

– If you have children, you may already have one of them in your kitchen. They’re super cheap, super portable, and a great interface for working with clay. Melamine Tray – You may already have one of these in your kitchen. Melamine trays are the super smooth, glossy trays used to serve food. They come in all shapes and sizes, but a large rectangular one should give you all the space you need to roll your clay. This pretty tray below is from Emma Ball and would make a lovely addition to your craft supplies collection.

Whatever you use, be sure to scrape the clay with a long blade to gently loosen it from the surface.

It is best to avoid the following surfaces as clay will either stick to the surface or parts of the surface will stick to the clay!

Wood – I was trying to roll out a piece of polymer clay on our wooden table and not only did it stick to it, but even areas of the table that looked smooth contained many small grooves that imprinted on the clay.

– I was trying to roll out a piece of polymer clay on our wooden table and not only did it stick to it, but even areas of the table that looked smooth contained many small grooves that imprinted on the clay. Cutting Mats – If you do a lot of crafting, you might already have a cutting mat (they’re usually green and have lots of measurements on them). Don’t use your cutting mat on a polymer clay work surface! I tried this and found that there were a lot of small green bits stuck to the clay from the surface of the mat.

– If you do a lot of crafting, you might already have a cutting mat (they’re usually green and have lots of measurements on them). Don’t use your cutting mat on a polymer clay work surface! I tried this and found that there were a lot of small green bits stuck to the clay from the surface of the mat. A Plate – I rolled out my very first piece of polymer clay on a ceramic plate and it didn’t work! There just isn’t enough room to use a rolling pin with a plate, so the result was a very uneven, half-rolled piece of clay! The clay didn’t stick to the surface though, so if you have a small rolling pin this might work!

How do you prevent polymer clay from sticking to a rolling pin?

Place a piece of paper over the clay (regular office paper will do) before rolling out the clay. This will prevent the clay from sticking to the rolling pin.

Another option is to use a sheet of baking paper (also called parchment paper) and place your rolling pin on top of it. You could also try plastic wrap, but this can be a little trickier to work with as it can stick together and create ridges in the surface of the polymer clay.

If your clay is very sticky and difficult to roll, try sprinkling some cornmeal (aka cornstarch) on top to stiffen it.

How do you prevent polymer clay from sticking to a mold?

Molds are the perfect way to create tiny miniatures without having to hand-craft every detail. The problem is that the polymer clay often sticks to the mold, leaving you with a muddy, distorted model.

There are easy ways to keep your polymer clay from sticking to your molds.

The following tips are designed to try clay that has been removed from a mold before baking:

Use a soft and sticky clay that is well conditioned. This one goes in and out of shape much easier than if it’s too stiff.

Thoroughly clean the mold with a baby wipe or water on a lint-free cloth or kitchen paper. To be absolutely sure, you could gently press some unwanted clay residue into the mold and any dirt particles will stick to the clay.

Apply a mold release solution to the surface of the clay before pressing it into the mold. A simple solution is to apply water or cornmeal. If you use cornstarch, you can simply brush it off or gently wash it off once you’ve demoulded your polymer clay.

Once the clay is in the mold, gently peel the clay out of the mold by gently bending the mold backwards. Then, when the clay is reasonably loose, place the back of the clay on a glass surface and it should stick to it for easier demoulding.

If you can’t get the clay out of the mold, pop it in the freezer for about 5-10 minutes before trying to get it out again. This makes the tone harder.

If you’re baking your polymer clay in a mold, choose a silicone mold (just make sure it’s oven safe) as silicone is inherently non-stick so the clay should be easy to get out. Molds made from other materials will need a layer of release agent, such as water or cornstarch, applied to the surface of the mold before pouring your clay.

What can I do if polymer clay is too sticky to work with?

The more you work with polymer clay, the stickier it gets. So if you find that you can no longer create the designs you want because your clay is just too sticky, the easiest way to fix this is to let it sit for 5-10 minutes.

Some brands of clay tend to be more sticky than others. Sculpty III is known for being very soft and Fimo Soft is also a lot stickier than other brands.

If you are struggling with sticky clay, you can remove some of the oils from the clay by leaching it.

All you do is roll out the clay and place it between two sheets of plain white paper, and then place the paper between two glass tiles or cutting boards. The tiles or cutting boards help to gently press down on the clay and won’t be soiled by oils or plasticizers leached from the clay.

Just leave the clay in place for 24 hours and you’ll find it’s much stiffer and easier to work with once removed.

If you have a pasta machine, you can speed up the leaching of polymer clay. Simply place a piece of clay between two sheets of white paper and run it through the pasta maker.

This forces the excess oils out of the clay. Start with the thickest setting and tighten the machine each time you cycle through the clay.

Further questions

How to prevent polymer clay from sticking to cutters

When using cutters, make sure the clay you are using is cool and the environment you are working in is cool. Warm clay can easily stick to cookie cutters, so cool them down with a few minutes in the freezer. You can even freeze the cutters for a few minutes to ensure whatever you use is as cool as possible.

Place the clay on a cool work surface, such as glass or a ceramic tile, this will ensure the clay will easily adhere to the tile rather than being pulled away with your cutters.

Another tip to try is to dip the cutter in water before using it to cut out the clay, as clay has a harder time sticking to the cutter when it is wet.

How to prevent polymer clay from sticking to your fingers

Wearing gloves is the easiest way to prevent clay from slipping onto your fingers. Modeling with polymer clay regularly will also protect your hands from wear and tear.

Choose blue nitrile gloves for the best feel and choose a size that fits you snugly to avoid wrinkling the clay. Another benefit of wearing gloves is that they eliminate fingerprints in your clay.

Summary: At ACTÍVA we know a thing or two about air-cured clay. Well actually we know a lot about air-cured clay because we sell nine varieties of it! Air dry clay is a wonderful medium for arts and crafts projects, home furnishings and more, but it can be a little tricky to work with if you’re not prepared. That’s why we’ve rounded up our top air-dried clay tips and tricks to help you make your air-dried clay projects the best they can be!

Tip One: Prepare Your Work Surfaces Most air-dried clays are sticky and you don’t want that on your work surface. We recommend protecting the work area with items such as wax paper, silicone baking mats, or vinyl placemats. This will protect your table and make clean up a lot easier!

Tip 2: Work with damp hands When working with air-dried clay, it is a good idea to have damp hands. Keep a small bowl or glass of water nearby to re-wet your hands if needed. Wet hands make it easier to work with the clay and prevent the clay from sticking too much to your skin.

Tip 3: Use a spray bottle. Gently air misting the clay pieces during processing will prevent them from drying out too quickly, which can lead to cracking and crumbling.

Tip 4: Score the pieces to be joined When joining multiple pieces of air-dried clay, use a knife or sharp tool to cut crosses in each of the pieces to be joined. Then press the parts together. Score the pieces this way, they’ll stick together much better as they dry, making them safer for finishing.

Tip 5: Minimize cracks If, as your project begins to dry, small cracks appear in the piece, wet your hands and smooth the cracks out with the water on your fingers.

Tip 6: Use the right tools To get a professional look for air dried clay projects, make sure you use the right tools! Items like our Clay Roller Kit will help you get a flat work surface and an even thickness of your air-cured clay. Also recommended is our Activ-Tools™ Clay Tools Set, which will help you achieve professional results!

Tip 7: Properly store work in progress If you can’t finish an air-dried clay project in one sitting, make sure you store it properly so it doesn’t dry out! Cover with plastic wrap and place in an airtight container if possible. If you can’t handle it within 24 hours, mist it lightly to keep it soft (see tip 3 above).

Tip 8: Air Dry Clay Projects Properly To dry properly, air dry clay projects should be exposed to air from all sides at once. This helps prevent warping and tearing. We recommend drying the pieces on a colander or wire rack, for example, where the air flow is equal on all sides. If it is not possible to dry your air-dried clay project this way, make sure to turn the object regularly to ensure all sides are dry before completion.

Tip 9: Store unused clay properly If stored properly, unused air-dried clay should last indefinitely. We recommend wrapping the unused clay in plastic wrap or in a ziploc bag and then in another airtight container.

By putting these tips into practice, you should be creating air-dried clay masterpieces in no time! Be sure to check out the wide range of air dried clay available in our online shop. We have clay perfect for any type of project: from jewelry making to doll making to home decor projects, school projects and more! You’re guaranteed to find the right type of clay for whatever you make!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP AIR DRY CLAY

question

I need a thick plate for a model. Can I add layers of plates by rolling new layers on top of each other?

Community Response

You can put layers of slabs on top of each other while both are still wet. If the clay is leather hard (meaning the outside is hard enough to carve without sticking), you probably need a little more water. When gluing two panels together it is very important that you do not trap any air pockets in the clay. To make sure you don’t do this, you must make a mistake. Slurry is equal parts clay and water in a bowl. It’s like slime. Take the sides of the slabs you want to touch and score them. To carve clay you need to find a needle tool and make flat slashes on top of each other until beads of clay start to shed. Then apply the slip and glue the panels together.

Prepare your clay for the potter’s wheel on the Xiem X-Board Wedging Board. The X-Board is easy to transport, so you can work with sound anywhere. I…

What is a wedge board?

An essential tool that everyone should have in a pottery studio are wedge boards. These large boards allow you to wedge your clay before throwing it onto the potter’s wheel. There are many different options that a potter can choose from when it comes to wedge boards and your personal choice will largely depend on what features you want your wedge board to have. The most common stretcher boards, which are easy to make yourself, are made of plaster of paris, plaster of paris covered with canvas, or plywood covered with canvas. Other options are also available; such as concrete, granite, masonite, concrete slabs and hardboard. If you don’t want to build your own wedge boards, there are also online options available to purchase.

Portable wedge boards

Portable wedge boards are a great addition to your studio, not because you can wedge your clay out in the sun, but because you can easily store them away when not in use. We recommend these two portable wedge boards from Amaco.

Amaco Canvas-covered table

This is a thin canvas covered board that is great for wedge and rolling hard clay.

Amaco wedge board

This wedge board is a sturdy wooden frame made from birch and plywood with a polyurethane finish. It has two recessed areas filled with absorbent plaster and comes with a canvas that snaps over one area.

Table wedge boards:

If you find that you use your wedge board frequently, then a permanent tabletop wedge board might be a good fit for you.

Diversified Woodcrafts Clay Wedging Table

This wedge board is a solid table made of solid maple. It comes with a fabric panel that can be easily removed for cleaning and then attached back to the table with velcro straps.

DIY wedge boards

The easiest stretcher board surface to purchase is canvas. Simply stretch the canvas over any frame and staple in place. Note that wedges on canvas will produce clay dust over time. Cleaning your canvas is essential to keep dust build-up to a minimum. Wipe down your wedge board with a soft sponge before and after wedges to remove dust with each session, and replacing the canvas when it gets old ensures you don’t kick up dust and cause potential health problems.

A more permanent wedge board backing that you can use is plaster of paris, which is easily made with plaster of paris mix and water. Plaster is tough and as long as you treat your board with care it will last you a very long time. A possible problem with plaster of paris is that if you get chunks of plaster of paris in the clay and then fire it, it will crack and surface pop when fired. However, as long as you take proper care of your gypsum wedge board, this shouldn’t be a problem. This simply involves wiping down regularly with a sponge and being careful with the board.

Another commonly used method is to cover plaster with canvas. The most common method is to create a sturdy wooden frame and then cover one side with wet canvas and fill the back with plaster.

wedge plate materials

If you want to suck the water out of your clay to harden it, like when reclaiming clay, plaster of paris is the best option. Plaster is also versatile as it can be wet beforehand and is less likely to absorb clay.

Natural stone and cement board are alternative options that may be available depending on the stores in your area. Both of these options are durable, non-absorbent and don’t stick to the clay as much as some of the other options like canvas.

wedge techniques

Remember that the boards should be relatively low when wedged. When you’re standing upright, you should be able to rest your fingers on the table with your elbows slightly bent. The underside of the table gives you more power to wedge clay without straining your wrists, which is extremely important to ensure the long-term health of your hands, wrists, and arms. At the end of the day, all of these different wedge options could work in your studio – and choosing a wedging board will depend on your personal material preferences, resource availability, and your unique wedging situation. Whether you want to keep the clay at the same moisture level or want to set the clay for hand building or throwing; There are wedging board options for you.

Conclusion

Wedge boards are a great addition to any size studio. You can buy portable wedge boards for as little as $15, buy a tabletop wedge board for around $900, or even make your own plaster of paris wedge board. If you’re just starting out, why not have a look around some potteries and see which ones you like to clamp your clay on the most 🙂

wedges. Who writes about wedges?

Isn’t it to get the air bubbles out? (NO!) And wedging is one of those zen practices that supposedly takes 3 years to learn to do right?

Or, in my experience, is it a matter of getting an internal coil going in your clay so that when you throw your clay it doesn’t fight against you and centers itself easily?

Why we wedged is something that many potters know or have known down the ages, but I think it’s still something that deserves further discussion; especially for art educators out there.

For years and years and still! I wedged Japanese style; Spiral wedging (pointy end under my left hand, right hand on the fat butt end) with the spiral at the fat end of my clay – runs counter-clockwise. That is, if you look down at the thick end and imagine the spiral spinning, it would spin counter-clockwise toward the center.

Yes, I drew on the clay to try and show the spiral direction – which is counter-clockwise when the thick end is facing up – but when you place it on the wheel – it spins clockwise!

I then plopped the big end of the clay onto my clay head and continued throwing American style with the wheel running counter-clockwise (and turning the inner spiral counter-clockwise) and I very often had to struggle with my clay a bit center it.

So often – and especially after I got really more consistent and skilled at throwing – I found my throw just refused to fully center. It would get this little dot – a wobble, a part that just seemed to refuse to settle down and let me center the audio completely and I knew I was doing everything else right. Even if I got it up and then down just right, there would again be that little mistake that I would end up trying to work around. Or, after pulling the walls, I wondered why my pot suddenly started to wobble strangely for no apparent reason.

Why did my unpaved smaller lumps of clay behave so much better? For a while I gave up trying to wedge anything that came straight out of the bag, but with large pieces it was quite a hassle to center it.

Finally overhearing another teacher on Lill Street casually mentioning something about the spiral helping to center the tone and at another point after once again striking my tone into submission and feeling that I would not always be so strong, careful examination From the direction of my spool came the realization that the way I wedged was Japanese (the wheels in Japan turn clockwise), but my throw is western (( American wheels rotate counterclockwise).

And it takes quite a bit of visualization to figure out which way the inner coil goes in the tone after you put it on the wheel. The fact of the matter is that there was no point in wedging my deflated, pugged tone if I wanted to run the inner coil against the rotation of my wheel!

A notice!!!!

I don’t know how many countless people, students, educators, etc. have asked me, “Don’t we have to wedge the clay to get the air bubbles out?” The answer is a resounding NO!

Air bubbles in and of themselves are not a problem! It’s just the moisture* they contain that causes explosions. If something is properly dried, you will rarely have explosions.

So please don’t waste your time or your students’ creative time with wedge putty that has already been deflated in a pugger – i.e. H. Any commercially made clay you would buy in a box.

This clay was deaerated in a Pugmill. There are usually no air bubbles in it!

In fact, improper wedging will create more bubbles, and you will only dry out your clay in the process.

Just make sure the pieces are given enough drying time and there is no plaster mixed in with the clay – this IS a surefire recipe for explosions.

So why are we wedging?

When it’s for casting**, it serves to get an inner coil in the clay so it’s easier to center the clay. I don’t clamp anything under 2-3 lbs when it comes straight out of the bag, I save myself the trouble of keying an internal coil for larger pieces of clay when I was struggling to get a piece centered.

Here’s how I currently work: Any clay straight out of the bag under 2.5 pounds will not be wedged.

It is airless and too small to matter. 2.5 to 3 pounds are wedged the new way, trying to train my poor hands to reverse their roles, and anything over 3.5 pounds is wedged the old way and then flipped.

Did I find it easier spinning my keyed clay upside down on the narrow tip, but with the inner coil now “tightening” as my wheel head went around? …… Enormous.

All those old problems went away and it was much easier to center yourself. Just recently I forgot to flip a wedge piece, started truing it, felt the blip and realized what I had done and so I actually cut it off the wheel and flipped it and then it was fine. What a great illustration of what I had learned.

And yes, I slapped my forehead internally for not figuring this out years before!

Well, better late than never, and since it’s been so long since I found out, I thought I’d share what, in hindsight, seems like an obvious fact with all of you out there who might have missed it, too.

*Why is humidity a problem? In fact, once the clay reaches the boiling temperature of water, any water will boil and turn into a rapidly expanding gas that has no room to expand. The result? An explosion as the gas pushes the clay out of the way.

**There are few uses for wedging when building by hand. Mainly it would serve to even out clay that has been stored for a long time – let’s say one side is a little drier than the other. When building by hand I use it to ensure my panels shrink back evenly in all directions – but just see my blog post on throwing a panel vs. rolling panels for an explanation.

***

Speaking of vented clay, I had a batch of regrind that I took to a friend’s house and reformed with their Soldner mixer. I ended up with 300 pounds of china filled with microbubbles. I slammed it a bit, but I could never get all the millions of tiny bubbles out, so I tried throwing it. It was very interesting! I could throw it much higher, the tone was stiffer and a little shorter. “Shorter” in clay means it’s less plastic and doesn’t stretch as much. Tone is always a balance between wonderful elasticity and not limp tone. I feel this line even more delicately with porcelain.

It was great to make lots of big and tall things out of Grolleg porcelain and I just avoided pulling handles out of it or lowering wide rims or even making a pitcher spout with that particular clay. I used my regular clay to make grips and they go well with the cups I threw. My other concern was a lumpy surface and I did two things; I ignored it and the bubbles seemed to flatten out in the shots and I also took a serrated rib and ran it over the entire surface while throwing and then smoothed it back out. Neither method was perfect, but I used up all £300 (and sold the end products).

When I discussed this batch of clay with my friends who had borrowed the blender, he had also mixed a batch of porcelain with similar results, a stiffer clay. He quoted an old potter who said pugging ruined clay.

This is one of those posts where I would really welcome comments from potters who know more about this than I do.

So what are your thoughts and opinions on wedging?