Slide Jammed With Round In Chamber? The 128 Correct Answer

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Why is my bullet stuck in the chamber?

A squib is a round that does not have enough powder charge to send the bullet down the chamber and out the barrel. Therefore, the bullet gets stuck in the barrel. A squib can be a danger to you and your firearm. It is important that you are aware of what happens after you pull the trigger.

Do you have to rack the slide to chamber a round?

Most semi-automatics will lock its slide open, automatically after all rounds have been fired from the magazine. Once a new loaded magazine is inserted, the slide only needs to be fully released to chamber the first round from the new magazine.

Why does the slide stay open after last round?

It’s called the slide stop. It’s there for a reason. When you’ve fired the last round in your pistol’s magazine, the magazine’s follower pushes up against the slide stop and causes it to catch in a recess in the pistol’s slide. This, in turn, causes the slide to be locked back.

What causes failure to eject?

Complete Failure To Extract

If a spent case completely fails to be extracted from the chamber, the causes are either the extractor or the barrel throat and/or feed ramp. Extractor hooks that have been worn down from use won’t be able to grab the spent case.

Racking The Slide Of Your Gun

Why you had an eject error and how to fix it

There are a few common firearm malfunctions, one of the most important of which is an ejection failure, where a spent case will not eject from the pistol and will prevent the slide from cycling. Ejection failure, also known as FTE, can take many forms and has several common causes.

Just like with a nutritional deficiency, the cause can be diagnosed and corrected.

The good news is that the cause is usually fairly minor and can be fixed within minutes. However, let’s find out a little more about ejection errors.

Stovepipe vs Extract Error

There are two basic types of extraction errors. There is a stovepipe where a spent case gets caught in the ejection port and an extraction bug. In the latter case, a cartridge is fired but not extracted from the chamber.

Just like a feeding bug, this is an issue that almost exclusively affects semi-autos. The revolver crowd isn’t that concerned with it, although an ejector can certainly break.

In the first case, the cartridge gets stuck between the slide and the barrel neck when ejected, because the slide ejects too quickly or too slowly. It looks like a stovepipe is sticking out of the chamber and hence the name.

In the latter case, after firing, the cartridge simply did not pull out of the chamber.

Everyone has their own causes and solutions.

Diagnosing and Repairing a Stovepipe

A stovepipe has several common causes.

Firstly, if the ammo you are using has a powder charge that is too weak, it will not move the slide properly. This could be due to switching to lower pressure cartridges, a bad batch of factory ammo, or a bad handload.

Another common cause is the return spring. If you use a recoil spring with too much tension for the ammo you are using, the slide will spin faster than the spent case is sent out the ejection port. If ammo is the culprit, either use a more appropriate load or stop using faulty cartridges.

A slack wrist can also cause a stovepipe, as not holding the pistol tight enough can cause the slide to malfunction, resulting in a shorter return stroke and a stovepipe. Driving the thumb too high on the slide will also upset the gun cycle and result in a stovepipe.

The fume hood is also a cause of stovepipes. If the extractor is worn or has insufficient tension, the cartridge will not be pulled out of the chamber and ejected with sufficient force. This keeps it in the ejection port and causes a stovepipe.

When a stovepipe passes, pull back the sled to clear the round. At this point you need to diagnose what was causing the stovepipe. Tightening the grip and making sure you don’t swipe the slide with your thumb or anything else will quickly rule out these causes.

If the problem doesn’t repeat itself, it’s possible it was a bad lap that’s happening. However, if the problem repeats itself, then there may be a mechanical problem.

First, make sure you are using a recoil spring weight appropriate for your ammo. Lighter loads require lighter springs, hotter loads require a stiffer spring. You may also want to replace your recoil spring when it wears out.

You may need to tighten the puller. Disassemble and inspect the weapon. If the puller is too loose or appears to be worn, it may either need to be tightened or replaced.

Complete error extracting

Of the two types of food failure, a stovepipe is a little more common, but total extraction failures can occur. However, unlike the stovepipe, there are far fewer causes and therefore easier to diagnose.

When a spent case cannot be fully extracted from the chamber, the causes are either the extractor or the neck and/or the feed ramp.

Extractor hooks worn out with use cannot grab the used case. A visual inspection will show whether this is the cause, as the pull-out hook appears to be quite worn. Replacement is guaranteed, although extractors are usually quite inexpensive.

The puller may also need tightening or new springs to work properly. The extractor should have some play, but not too much. This solution is also usually very simple and fairly cheap.

The other common cause of pullout failure is a dirty or otherwise rough feed ramp. When this happens, the buildup of carbon and other debris will cause the cartridge to become stuck in the chamber. Likewise, a feed ramp that is roughened by use can result in a cartridge not being able to be extracted. You can tell which it is by visually inspecting the barrel.

In the first case, a good cleaning will usually solve the problem. Polishing the feed ramp can be done at home with either sandpaper or a Dremel tool. You should use 600 to 800 grit, but no rougher than 600. Remember that the goal is to polish the feed ramp and smooth the material, so avoid taking off too much material.

What causes a squib load?

A squib load, or squib, is a type of firearm malfunction in which the fired projectile does not have enough power behind it to exit the barrel. This usually happens when there is a lack of enough propellant gas to push the projectile completely out of the barrel and down the barrel’s bore.

Racking The Slide Of Your Gun

A squib charge, also known as squib rounds or just a squib, is when there is insufficient force behind a bullet to exit a barrel.

This type of malfunction can occur due to many reasons such as: B. dirt in the barrel, loading with too little charge, d. H. insufficient powder charge, or an improperly seated projectile. The most common causes are improper primer ignition or a lack of gunpowder.

A squib round is extremely dangerous. It can result in serious injury to a shooter and catastrophic firearm failure, so educating yourself is important.

This article explains what squibs are and why they occur. It will also offer some remedies and preventive methods that you can employ if you ever encounter this problem before it becomes dangerous.

What is a Squib Charge?

A primer, or squib, is a type of firearm malfunction in which the fired projectile does not have enough force to leave the barrel. This usually happens when there is not enough propellant to push the projectile completely out of the barrel and into the barrel bore.

The squib produces a characteristic popping sound and produces little or no recoil. An explosive charge is particularly dangerous as it can cause serious damage to the firearm and injury to the shooter or anyone nearby.

What causes a squib load

A squib round can be caused by a variety of different issues.

One cause is the use of inferior ammunition that does not have enough power to push the projectile out of the barrel. Shooters reloading their own ammo tend to encounter squibs the most.

Typically, inexperienced reloaders can produce a cartridge with no or enough gunpowder – a powder charge problem caused during the powder loading process. As a result, there will not be enough force to drive the bullet out of the barrel.

Primer malfunctions can also lead to the same result. A primer may have been incorrectly installed or damaged during reloading.

While reloaders tend to run into squib charges most often, shooters using factory ammo can also be affected.

Another possible cause of squibs is a barrel blockage preventing a projectile from being pushed out. If a gun is not cleaned often or properly, dirt, debris, and debris can cause a clogged barrel.

What to do when you have a Squib charge

If you come across a Squib Charge, there are a few things you should do.

First, stop firing and make sure your gun is pointed in a safe direction and eject your magazine so you don’t accidentally fire subsequent shots.

Next, use a barrel or cleaning rod to slide the gun’s barrel down to see if you have a primer and where the projectile is stuck. If you put your rod through one end of your barrel and see it on the other side of your barrel, you don’t have a squib.

You can use your rod to push the projectile out. If that doesn’t work, you may need to disassemble the weapon for a more detailed solution.

If your ammo is loaded with primers frequently, chances are the primer is caused by poor quality ammo or a lack of pressure in your chamber.

You should use different ammo or quality check your remanufactured ammo – if you are a reloader.

How to prevent squib rounds

To avoid squib charges, it’s important to make sure you’re using quality ammo. As mentioned above, missing gunpowder or primer problems are common reasons for squibs.

Next you need to make sure the gun barrel is free of any obstructions or debris. You may also want to make sure your barrel is properly aligned with your cartridges.

To fix this problem, try cleaning your gun more often and make sure you put some kind of cover over your muzzle when shooting in dirty areas.

Know the difference between squibs and misfires

Ignition charges can be extremely dangerous. They can ruin your firearm and cause serious injury or death.

It is important to know how to tell the difference between a squib and a misfire.

Many shooters are taught the instant action drill or “tap rack bang” technique when they hear a click and not a bang. Many shooters perform the technique unconsciously as soon as their gun fails to fire.

Performing this technique with a squib in the barrel can cause serious problems.

To avoid this, look out for one or all three of these signs:

After you press the trigger, you will hear a distinct pop, not just a click. The bang is the result when the primer is struck with sufficient force by a weapon’s firing pin. You’ll also notice little to no recoil force. You may notice a distinct odor similar to that emanating from a cap gun. You may also see some smoke caused by the primer hitting.

If you notice any of these signs, stop immediately and see if you have a primer.

Conclusion

A squib occurs when a cartridge does not have enough force to force a bullet out of a barrel, causing the bullet to become lodged in the barrel.

Primers can occur for a variety of reasons including a clogged barrel or breech face, wrong bullet size, too high pressure, poor quality ammunition with low powder content, accumulation of contamination in the chamber area due to insufficient cleaning of primer residue on cases from firing multiple shots without a break, or just bad luck.

Knowing what a squib is, how to spot one, and how to prevent one will help ensure you stay safe and avoid damaging your firearm.

Do cops carry a round in the chamber?

Cops keep a round chambered at all times (with the safety off, if equipped). In fact, it’s almost second nature to do this when loading a weapon.

Racking The Slide Of Your Gun

The question “Do police officers make a round in the chamber?” made its “round” through the writing groups this week. Several people have written to me that they have heard both yes and no replies. And now they asked me to confirm the true answer to the question. I’m not sure, but I may have started this discussion with my comments on Detective Kate Beckett from the Castle TV show. In case you haven’t seen the show, for some reason Beckett got everything wrong in the last episode, from tasting a fat pinch of heroin to chugging a shot of whiskey in the captain’s office.

i know i know i know This is a TV show. It’s for entertainment. It’s fiction. You love it, and you especially love the sexual tension between Castle and Beckett. Honestly, I heard you the first 1,000 times you told me to stop teasing the love of your life, Nathan Fillion. The truth is I rarely write anything about Fillion’s character. Why? Since he is not playing the role of a police officer, he should not be expected to know police procedures. So he’s pretty safe from my comments.

Beckett, well, she’s a different story. She should know better. Like this week, when she drew her pistol and jerked the chute to fire a round before getting into a dangerous situation. I assume she did this in case someone needed to be shot. Actually, I don’t know why she carries a gun at all. She usually just kicks butt and asks questions later. She’s a tough cop.

i like beckett I think Stana Katic does a fantastic job with the role, which is why I hate beating a dead horse to a second death, but I wish the writers would just up the credibility factor of the police case. The Beckett character is extremely perceptive and Katic portrays that intelligence quite well. So good that stupid police stuff just doesn’t come across well.

Like reading a really well-written novel, it’s easy to immerse yourself in the Castle world. I mean I’m here. I can hear the sounds of the police station. I smell the gun oil. And I can feel the sudden tensing of the suspect’s muscles as he tries to resist arrest. I’ve been there so I know what it’s like. So when I tune in to Castle on Monday night, I know there’s a chance I’ll go back, even if it’s just for an hour. However, watching is becoming more and more of a chore, but that’s not what today’s post is about.

Some of the people who wrote to me after reading this week’s Castle blog wrote that I don’t know what I’m talking about, that it’s against the law to have a live round in the Chamber, even for one Police officers. One person actually said I was an idiot and should revoke my blog license. WHAT???

Well, that person got the idiot thing right, I suppose, but not the part about cops not having a cartridge in their guns.

The answer to the question, based on my years of personal experience and the answers I have received from over twenty active duty law enforcement officers, is YES. Police officers keep a cartridge in the chamber at all times (with the fuse off, if equipped). In fact, doing this when loading a gun almost comes naturally.

If you ask an officer how many rounds he/she carries in his/her gun, they will reply with an answer like “Fifteen plus one”. That means they have a full magazine with fifteen rounds and one in the chamber. Some officers go a step further, adding: “I also carry two full magazines on my belt. That’s fifteen shots at a time, forty-six shots in all, including my pistol. Yes, I have forty-six rounds with me, four less than a case of ammunition.”

When loading their guns, officers first place fifteen bullets in the magazine. They then slide the full magazine into the pistol, pull back the bolt, and then release it, loading a round into the chamber. Then they eject the magazine and replace the cartridge that was loaded into the chamber. They now have a pistol loaded to 15 + 1, or how many rounds their respective weapon lasts.

Most officers I spoke to said that their department policy dictates that all service weapons be loaded to the +1 capacity (one full magazine plus one chambered). This reduces the time it takes for an officer to react when involved in a fatal shooting situation. The time an officer spends chambering a cartridge could be the time it takes to save his life.

When you’re under fire, you definitely don’t want to waste precious time taking a round.

* Two examples of police gun policy in the United States

Madison, Wisconsin Police Department Firearms Policy and Procedures: # Carrying firearms

1. Semi-automatic pistols

1. The City of Madison Police Department only authorizes semi-automatic pistols for everyday carry in uniform and for investigative duties.

2. All uniformed officers carry their service weapons when operating a service vehicle.

3. All semi-automatic pistol (semi-auto) magazines are loaded to capacity during service transport.

4. All officers must carry at least two fully loaded magazines. One must be carried in the weapon and one must be worn on the body and ready for immediate use.

5. Only department-approved semi-automatic pistols are carried by officers on or off duty.

6. All semi-automatic pistols are carried with the chamber loaded.

The Boston Police Department requires a firearms inspection on roll call. The guidelines, as part of this inspection, require officers to remove the magazine and then eject the cartridge from the chamber. When reloading, officers must replace the magazine and then place a cartridge in the chamber.

Again – US officers carry with shot to chamber and safety shutdown.

What causes the slide to lock back?

One the slide locks back on an empty magazine, hitting the magazine release drops it. The slide remains locked back because the slide stop is engaged, which facilitates inserting a new magazine. When a magazine is inserted into an empty gun, the follower inside the magazine will also activate the slide stop.

Racking The Slide Of Your Gun

With the record number of new gun owners increasing the need to learn the basic information about the safe and proper use of firearms. One of the most common states you will need to use your semi-automatic pistol in is the slide lock and you should understand what it means and how your gun gets there.

What does Slide Lock refer to?

Simply put, breech lock refers to locking the breech back or on a semi-automatic pistol. The actual part of the pistol that locks the breech open is properly called the ‘breech stop’ or ‘breech release’. Whichever term is used, the most important thing is to understand what it means and how it works.

How to place your gun in the Slide Lock

There is usually a small tab or lever on the left side of the firearm that fits into a notch in the slide. When the slider is pulled back, the lever and notch will align, at which point the lever can be pushed up to lock the slider. This lever is usually pointed out when someone describes a sled stop. It works in tandem with the notch on your breech to actually lock the gun open.

The term “sliding lock” is used both as a noun and as a verb. You may hear the term “slide lock” in a training course or as part of range commands, e.g. B. “All handguns must remain on the table, Slide Locked Open, until prompted to load.”

Slide lock is also a condition that occurs when you have a magazine in the gun with no ammo. When a gun is fired until empty and a magazine is loaded, the bolt should engage automatically. There are a few exceptions: some slides are not locked due to changes. When a gun is fired until empty, the magazine follower pushes up on the inside of the bolt stop, engaging the notch in the bolt and locking it in place. When ammunition is in the magazine, the driver is compressed (it is under the bullets) and will not be at the top of the magazine until all rounds have been fired.

If there are no faults, this should only happen when the magazine is empty. Once the slide locks an empty magazine, pressing the magazine release will drop it. Engaging the slide lock keeps the slide locked back, making it easier to insert a new magazine.

When a magazine is inserted into an empty gun, the follower in the magazine also activates the slide stop. If the bolt is being retracted or was already open, the bolt will not close until the magazine has been removed or dropped below the bolt stop and can no longer push the bolt stop up.

Reasons you might place your gun in the slide lock:

1. A breech should be re-locked to inspect the chamber and determine if the firearm is loaded.

2. Locking the breech backwards can make loading a pistol with a hard-to-manipulate breech easier. If your hands are not very strong or it is very difficult to pull the bolt back to fire a cartridge, it may help to pull the bolt back before loading the magazine. Simply pull the slide backwards and then release (like a slingshot) and the slide will chamber a round as it moves forward.

Troubleshooting

It is important to understand that some weapons may not open. This is a situation where you may need to use an empty chamber gauge if you are at a range where the gun needs to be locked open when not actively firing. Check with the Range Officer for protocol if you are unable to close the chute back.

It’s also important to know that on a semi-automatic firearm, if your magazine is fully loaded, the bolt should not fall back between shots. This malfunction usually indicates that your grip needs adjustment; You could hit the slide stop during firing or recoil. It’s a good reason to always seek guidance and learn about common malfunctions before your first trip to the shooting range.

Knowing what happens when your magazine is empty and how to proceed is a necessary concept to master. Understanding how the breech is opened is part of learning to shoot a pistol.

What is it called when you pull back the slide on a gun?

A slide stop, sometimes referred to as a slide lock or slide release, on a semi-automatic handgun is a function that visually indicates when a handgun has expended all loaded ammunition and facilitates faster reloading by pulling back the slide or depressing the slide lock to advance the first round of a new magazine.

Racking The Slide Of Your Gun

P226 with latch closed (top) and open (bottom). In the view from below, the slider is locked in place by the slider stop.

A breech stop, sometimes called a breech lock or breech release, on a semi-automatic handgun is a feature that provides a visual indication when a pistol has used all of the ammunition loaded and facilitates faster reloading by pulling the breech back or depressing the breech lock first Advance round of a new magazine.

Description[edit]

The different terms refer to the two functions of the component: it automatically catches (locks) the breech after the last round of the magazine has been fired, which allows the user to easily release the breech by pulling the switch down, but it also allows the user to selectively stop or lock the slide by pressing the switch up while moving the slide. Some manufacturers recommend using the shutter lock as the release, others recommend sliding the shutter. Using the slide lock as a release may accelerate wear on some models.

Sliding stop in its “up” position, locking the slide of this Glock pistol in its “rear” position. Depressing the switch releases the slider to jump forward.

Shutter stop (with mechanism exposed, larger circle) and corresponding notch in breech catching shutter stop.

Pistol Malfunction / Jam Clearing Fat Bullets with a Hot Gun

Pistol Malfunction / Jam Clearing Fat Bullets with a Hot Gun
Pistol Malfunction / Jam Clearing Fat Bullets with a Hot Gun


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What to do when slide doesn’t rack back with a live bullet chambered? [Archive]

View Full Version : What to do if the slide does not retract with a live cartridge chamber?

tools2teach I have a Sig P226 that is stuck with a live round and I couldn’t reset the slide for my life. I’ve taken the following steps, pulled out the magazine, fired the pistol several times to try and fire the live cartridge and nothing happened. I then go to the area master for help. He gets a rubber mallet and lightly hits the slide a few times, still can’t get it back, then decides to try and fire the bullet. Guess what???? It goes bang! The scary part was that he pointed it up to get a good angle on the slide.

I’m afraid that could happen again after this incident. Any advice on what to do if this happens again? I was lucky that the range had the tools, but it definitely wasn’t the safest route.

five.five-six What ammunition did you shoot?

tools2teach Blazer

SwissFluCase I made the mistake of shooting Wolf in a P6. We had to pry open a loaded gun with a screwdriver. Brass only for my sigs from now on.

Regards,

SwissFluCase

SJgunguy24 I don’t know how much you love your guns but I will find a sturdy wooden bench and attach the slide to the edge of the bench with the rear sights.

I don’t have a SIG yet, but that’s another reason to like Glock, take off the slide cover and you now have a safe weapon, no firing pin.

BigDogatPlay Interesting situation… did the rangemaster have any insight?

I don’t shoot steel cases or aluminum blazers in my semis…but that’s just me.

tools2teach No idea…. We inspected the inner workings after removing the case. Everything looked fine, it was well lubricated, no burrs on the feed ramp, after that incident I started shooting reloads. We concluded it was the ammo. Maybe it was undercharged.

Unfortunately, the SIG I had with me is one I hold dear. Well, the screwdriver and the hammering would hurt like hell.

Greg-Dawg For any slide that gets stuck, it’s usually a bad cartridge case bulging into the chamber that’s pinched between the barrel and slide.

This is what you do, it requires a bit of physical strength on your part so no tools are needed.

With a very firm grip, hold the top of the bolt with your reaction hand (weak hand) and point the gun in a safe direction. Make your gun hand a “U” and ram it against the back of the pistol grip with a lot of force. This pushes the carriage back, allowing the receiver to move forward.

DONE.

Hammer hammers, screwdrivers, etc. are not required. It’s happened to a lot of people on the range and this technique always works.

Mstnpete Here is a technique we use all the time.

Hold the slide well with one hand. Using your other hand, hit the back of the pistol grip hard, “like you’re about to grab the pistol,” and push the bottom forward.

This method should eject the ball.

Never put your trigger finger on the trigger.

Just like what Greg said.

five.five-six Here’s a technique we use all the time.

.

all the time…huh??? what ammo do you use?

Acorn556 I’d switch to some quality brass pretty darn fast if you weren’t using Blazer Brass. I’ve never had anything like this when using brass.

Cineski I have shot hundreds of aluminum cased cartridges and they have worked perfectly for me.

xbimmers When this happens you have to hit the gun very hard to open the bolt… there is no other way….

Always use good ammo and brass cases…except on your cheap guns…IMO

I don’t know how much you love your guns, but I’ll find a sturdy wooden bench and attach the slide to the edge of the bench with the rear sights.

I don’t have a SIG yet, but that’s another reason to like Glock, take off the slide cover and you now have a safe weapon, no firing pin.

xbimmers With what weapon?

I have shot hundreds of aluminum case cartridges and they have worked perfectly for me.

Voo all the time… huh??? what ammo do you use?

When shooting with reloaders or custom weapons, you encounter this phenomenon quite often. Sometimes people cut the chambers short, sometimes they load the ammo long, sometimes they’re not the right size. There are countless reasons why brass gets wedged into the chamber and makes them stick.

I use this technique whenever someone gets stuck in a situation. If this first method doesn’t work, I’ll find a hard edge and use the visor. It never got to the point where I couldn’t remove the round using either of these methods.

It’s a bit harsh on the extractor, but in short, that’s why they were built into the gun.

Saym14 Here’s a technique we use all the time.

Hold the slide well with one hand. Using your other hand, hit the back of the pistol grip hard, “like you’re about to grab the pistol,” and push the bottom forward.

This method should eject the ball.

Never put your trigger finger on the trigger.

Just like what Greg said.

I did this but also laid the front of the slide (not on the barrel) on the side of a wooden bench, done point and slammed.

Grumpyoldretiredcop I don’t have a SIG yet, but that’s another reason to like Glock, take off the slide cover and you now have a safe weapon, not a firing pin.

Not if the foil is in the battery you won’t. Give it a try and prepare to be disappointed. 🙁 The slide would have to be unloaded enough for the slide plate to clear the abbreviated beaver tail of the Glock frame. The OP’s gun was fully battery-sealed with a round chamber.

littlejake Most semi-automatics round off the headspace at the mouth. Bad ammo I would say – not up to SAAMI specs. The case failed to sit on the muzzle and went too far into the chamber and got stuck. This left a gap between the primer and the breech face; and made ignition difficult. Also, the extractor could not pull out the round without excessive force.

Best fix – use good ammo.

It is best to use some muscle power to eject this round rather than firing it as the stuck mouth could result in higher than normal chamber pressure.

My 2 cents.

9mmepiphany, this isn’t as uncommon as some people seem to think… the correct solution has already been mentioned… it’s just like clearing a shotgun jam by slamming your buttstock into the ground.

By the way: In my experience, CCI Blazer is good ammunition … and that over many thousands of rounds

Mstnpete all the time…huh??? what ammo do you use?

When you get into competitive shooting, that happens to most shooters.

We don’t use factory ammo because most of us reload. It is normal for case bells to occur from time to time. Many bullet head manufacturers sometimes get bullets of different sizes, even if they are the same front.

When I said all the time I didn’t mean it happens to my reloads.

Happens to most shooters though. It’s not a perfect world, you know :p

MossbergMan I like to just point the gun at range and fire the damn thing. I also had a bullet in the chamber, why try to smash things? If it’s in battery, it’s chambered, fire it. Problem solved.

This has happened on USPSA games, I report the problem to the RO and have my time recorded, look down and “put out” my gun with a deliberate discharge. The suitcase is ejected and everyone is happy. If not, at least I know I’m stuck with an empty suitcase, not a live round.

Turbinator Dunno… We inspected the internals after removing the case. Everything looked fine, it was well lubricated, no burrs on the feed ramp, after that incident I started shooting reloads. We concluded it was the ammo. Maybe it was undercharged.

If what you described happened, in my opinion, then in no case was the ammunition insufficient powder.

You described a live cartridge (NOT a bullet) that got stuck in your chamber.

The rangemaster eventually cleared the gun by firing the round.

This has nothing to do with the powder level in the ammunition, but everything to do with the fact that either the diameter of the bullet or the case is not the right diameter. Something did not meet physical dimension specifications, or your chamber had accumulated a lot of debris.

turbo

Joe is good to know how to fix this if it ever happens to me

thefurball I have shot hundreds of aluminum case cartridges and they have worked perfectly for me.

Dito.

My Sigs had no trouble with anything from Blazers to the expensive branded factory loads to the much “dreaded” Wolf.

No problems, always go “boom”.

kduly Great info. :cheers2:

russ69 It sounds like the gun wasn’t fully in battery, then after a few hits it was in battery and able to fire. That is the most logical. Otherwise, I have to accept that the gun repeatedly (double action) didn’t hit the primer hard enough to detonate, the cartridge was jammed, and was jammed too hard to open the breech.

If that’s the case, you’re probably releasing the slider too softly instead of just releasing the slider. First round? I’m right?

Thanks Russ

Gryff With a very firm grip, hold the top of the bolt with your reaction hand (weak hand) and point the gun in a safe direction. Make your gun hand a “U” and ram it against the back of the pistol grip with a lot of force. This pushes the carriage back, allowing the receiver to move forward.

+1

That’s the solution when I see someone with a lock-up Glock at the range. Wrap your support hand over the top of your slide and grip tight. Take your firing hand off the grip, then smack it hard on the back of the grip (effectively keeping the slide stable while moving the frame forward). I’ve never seen this not work, but I’ve seen someone throw their support hand up when they then didn’t grip the chute tight enough. The sights tore across the underside of their support hand as they propelled the weapon forward with their strong hand. So hold on tight

fairfaxjim It got stuck trying to pull it out, probably preventing the chute from going fully into the battery. The Sigs have a block in the slide that needs to move up to allow the hammer to depress the firing pin. This is done with a tiny little arm that rises when the trigger is pulled, pushing the block up, completing the firing pin geometry. This will prevent the weapon from firing if the hammer is dropped without the trigger being pulled, e.g. B. when relaxing.

I’ve never experienced this myself, but POSSIBLY if the slide ran out of battery the little arm didn’t push the firing pin block high enough to fire. After the crap was knocked out, the slide moved far enough into the battery for the firing pin to hit the primer.

Playing around with a jammed live round is something that needs to be thought through at every step. A good thing with the Sig, as long as you don’t pull the trigger, the firing pin doesn’t hit the primer.

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What Causes Gun Malfunctions (and How to Fix Them)

When you shoot a semi-automatic rifle, shotgun, or pistol, it’s bound to malfunction (i.e. when you pull the trigger and nothing happens). Well, something is happening, but it’s not what you expected. The gun doesn’t go bang!

Many people call this a traffic jam, but the correct term is malfunction. And you can fix most faults yourself. The problem turns into a jam if you cannot fix the problem and need the service of a gunsmith.

What causes weapon interference?

A malfunction is either due to a problem with the ammo, the mechanics of the gun, or the shooter. To get the most out of your workout, familiarize yourself with the types of malfunctions and how to fix them.

To do this, you need to perform these actions quickly in a self-defense situation. Your first fix for most malfunctions is an instant drill known as a tap rack bang! This is how it works:

Tap – Hit the bottom of the magazine with the palm of your hand to ensure it is properly seated.

— Hit the bottom of the magazine with the palm of your hand to ensure it is properly seated. Rack – Rack the slide to empty the chamber and load a new cartridge.

— Move the slide to empty the chamber and load a new cartridge. Bang – Pull the trigger.

Malfunctions due to ammo or weapon mechanics

Here are the different types of pistol malfunctions and what to do about them:

ignition charge

A squib is a cartridge that doesn’t have enough powder charge to send the bullet through the chamber and out of the barrel. Therefore, the bullet gets stuck in the barrel. A Squib can pose a threat to you and your weapon.

It’s important to be aware of what happens after you pull the trigger. A Squib will only Pop!, as opposed to Bang!, and will most likely feel less recoil than normal. If you don’t notice a squib, you might be able to load and fire another round.

But that can really damage your gun. If you suspect you have a squib, stop shooting. Disable the action, lock your gun and check the barrel. Squibs are most common with handloads, but factory ammunition can also produce one.

Delete a Squib with Tap-Rack-Bang! Can not. You may be able to remove the bullet with a barrel cleaning rod. However, if you are unsure, take your gun to a gunsmith or call the Range Officer to have the bullet removed.

If you get a primer, you may be able to force the bullet out of the barrel with a cleaning rod.

Feeding errors

A feed failure occurs when a cartridge fails to load into the chamber. A cartridge that won’t feed is usually associated with a magazine problem – the spring needs cleaning, or it may be a bad follower.

It is also possible that the magazine was not inserted correctly. In my experience, a little lubrication on the magazine feed lips and in the chamber fixes this problem. After checking that your magazines are in good condition, your next step would be to change ammo. Some weapons are finicky.

Failed to eject/stovepipe

An ejection failure, sometimes called a stovepipe, means the case did not come out of the chamber after the gun was fired. This is when the case gets stuck standing up, preventing the slider from returning to the battery. To fix an eject error, use tap-rack-bang! But first, roll your weapon 90 degrees to the right. This allows gravity to aid in case removal. Magpul experts teach students to run their hand over the stuck bullet to remove it.

hanging fire

Hang fire is a delay between the firing pin hitting the bullet’s primer and the cartridge being fired. Keep your gun pointed in a safe direction for at least 30 seconds to see if the cartridge fires. Then, with the gun pointed in a safe direction, slide the slide to eject the faulty cartridge.

slam fire

A slamfire is when a new round is loaded into the chamber and bolt recoil causes the firing pin to hit the primer hard enough to cause the round to fire without pulling the trigger. This is perhaps the most dangerous malfunction and the reason why a cartridge should only be chambered when the gun’s muzzle is pointed in a safe direction with a solid backstop.

Double feed

You have a double feed when two live rounds try to feed into the chamber. To fix a double feed, first remove the magazine. Then move the slide to eject both rounds. Once both cartridges are ejected, insert a new magazine.

Positive ejection prevents firearm malfunctions.

short stroke

A short-stroke occurs when the gun does not complete a full cycle after firing a round. The cartridge will successfully exit the barrel, but the breech did not go all the way back, so the gun did not load a new cartridge. There is usually no indication that a short stroke has occurred.

misfire

A misfire is when you pull the trigger and the gun clicks! A misfire is usually due to faulty ignition. It can also be a problem with the gun’s firing pin. If tap rack bang! does not resolve the problem, remove the failed cartridge and dispose of it safely.

If the feed fails, eject the magazine and empty your chamber before reloading.

Malfunctions due to shooter problems

There are two common shooter issues that can also cause it to malfunction:

Being too gentle when you slide the slide. This was my problem as a newbie and caused persistent problems getting a round into the chamber known as failure to feed. weak grip. Another shooter problem is when you don’t have a firm grip on your gun; this is called “limp-wristing” and can cause one of the problems discussed earlier.

You will also see malfunctions labeled Level I, Level II, and Level III:

Level I faults are the easiest to fix. (For example, a misfire is a Level I malfunction.)

Faults are the easiest to fix. (For example, a misfire is a Level I malfunction.) Level II is an ejection failure, such as B. a stovepipe.

is an eject error, such as B. a stovepipe. Stage III is an extraction error or double feed.

It’s important to practice fixing glitches and learning to fix them quickly – especially with your self-defense weapon. You can safely use snaps for practice.

This video by Caleb Giddings shows the importance of thinking fast and troubleshooting.

What was the worst malfunction you experienced? Tell us in the comments section.

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in November 2012. It has been updated and revised to ensure clarity and accuracy.

Racking The Slide Of Your Gun

Just the words “Rack The Slide” can sound like fingernails scratching a chalkboard or can cause pain in your arthritic hands. Your gun’s breech doesn’t have to be like this. Believe it or not, it’s not about strength! You don’t need manly hands and arms to move the slide effectively. It’s all about TECHNOLOGY. Many instructors don’t teach proper technique because technique isn’t as important for the stronger man with the bigger hands. You just do it. Well, for many women – that just doesn’t work.

The type of gun matters, the larger the caliber of the gun, the tighter and more challenging your gun’s breech can be. Typically .380 and 9mm (and anything of a lower caliber) have fairly smooth racking. This is something to consider when purchasing a gun and why it is so important to handle and try any gun before you buy it. You must be able to properly operate all mechanisms of a firearm to ensure effective and safe weapon handling.

WHAT IS THE RACKING OF THE CHUTE?

A semi-automatic pistol takes the energy generated by firing the first round and uses it to eject the spent cases and extract the remaining subsequent rounds from the magazine. The first round must be chambered manually to get the whole process going semi-automatically. To do this, the first cartridge in the magazine holding the cartridge and inserting it into the grip of a semi-automatic must be “pulled” out of the magazine and aligned with the barrel in the chamber.

Check out the video below showing the action of a semi-automatic. (It’s in slow motion so you can see the action, it’s much faster when shooting live.) You’ll notice the slide move all the way to the back of the frame and then slide forward, drawing the next round into the chamber . As mentioned above, the energy expelled when a cartridge is fired is used to perform that action. Obviously, a “first” round needs to be fired to get this all started. For this reason, we “manually stretch the slide” to get the first cartridge into the chamber. Once the sequence is in motion, only a pull of the trigger is required to fire the firearm. Most semi-automatics automatically lock their breech after all rounds have been fired from the magazine. Once a newly loaded magazine is inserted, the slide only needs to be fully released to load the first round from the new magazine.

RACKING THE SLIDE OF YOUR GUN TECHNIQUE

The most important thing to remember when sliding your gun’s slide is this. PUSH not PULL.

The proper technique for cocking your gun’s slide is to PRESS your dominant hand firmly with the hand gripping the gun reaching forward while holding the back of the slide, NOT the back of the slide backwards draw. Here are the steps:

Step 1

1. Grip your firearm with a dominant hand, with your trigger finger outside of the trigger guard, and your non-dominant hand on the top and rear of the slide. Position your hand so that the palm of your hand is closest to you, with the other four fingers over the slide and grasping the outside. Do not pinch from behind between thumb and forefinger. CAUTION: Do not let your hand cover the ejection port as your hand may be severely pinched during the sliding process and blocking the ejection port may cause a jam.

Safety note: When you grip the slide, your trigger finger will of course also grip, you must consciously prevent your finger from moving on the trigger while you are operating the slide.

step 2

2. Bring the gun towards your middle abdomen (midline) while keeping your muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Keep your dominant elbow braced in your side. Just move your gun hand and hit hard (very hard) forward while holding the slide firmly in place with your support hand toward your midline. Your supporting hand should not move. Think of this movement as if you’re slamming the gun forward, not pulling the slide backwards. CAUTION: No matter how hard you struggle with this move, don’t let your trigger finger slip into the trigger guard.

step 3

3. Once the slider has retracted to its rearmost position, release the slider completely. Do not “follow” or “ride” the slide with your supporting hand, but let go. The slide must slide freely to properly chamber the cartridge.

step 4

4. Bring your hands together in front of your chest and, with a solid two-handed firing grip, extend your firearm and aim the sight at the target.

I’d like to mention an alternate firearm for those of you who just can’t manipulate the chute effectively. There are 4 handguns that have a so-called “break-open”. These types of semi-automatic machines do not require the slide to be moved. You can flip up the barrel and manually load the first cartridge. It is the energy generated by firing the first round that is used to expel the spent husks and suck in the rest of subsequent rounds. Because of this, the first cartridge in any semi-automatic must be manually chambered. As soon as the first cartridge is in the chamber – either by pulling the bolt or, in the case of a break-open barrel, manually inserted and the gun is fired, the remaining cartridges are “automatically” chambered. Hence the name semi-automatic.

Continue learning how to shoot a gun here: Making the Decision: Part 4 – How to Use a Gun?

*Important Note: These are lower caliber handguns and I have encouraged you to learn and master the above technique if possible. These alternative firearms range in size from .22 to .32 caliber. Something to consider is that you are giving up stopping power with a lower caliber gun. In the event that you just can’t slide the bolt on a traditional semi-automatic, the .32 is probably a better choice. But… Any weapon is better than none when you need it! Wear what you are comfortable with and can shoot effectively and safely.

Taurus makes a Model 22 and a Model 25. Both are slanted upwards, reflecting their caliber.

Beretta also makes two models, the Beretta Bobcat (.22LR & .25ACP) and the 3032 Tomcat (.32)

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