Replacement Snooker Table Pockets? The 230 Detailed Answer

It’s fairly well known that the tables used in professional televised snooker matches are different from the ones we play at down at the club. It is also a known fact that these tables are significantly more difficult to play, often making a reasonable club break builder a beginner at a gaming table. But what are the specific differences on a match table that cause these difficulties?

Pocket templates for professional matchtables haven’t changed since 1990. All gaming tables used at events are made to the exact same specifications which are regulated and checked by officials to ensure there are no discrepancies. Pieces of wood are used as templates to check the size of the pockets, the cut of the cheeks, and the distance of the slate from the hole in the pocket. This is especially important as the closer the board is to the pocket, the harder it is to sink a ball. And on a match table, the slate is generally measured farther toward the pocket.

Because the bags’ cheeks are tailored to a specific specification, the cheeks are often quite sharper and less forgiving than a racquet table. This creates the narrower pockets associated with match tables and really emphasizes the importance of consistent cue action when you want to be able to string a few pots together. Because club tables don’t follow a consistent customization format, there can be quite a variety from one table to the next; and by not following the official templates (which are closely guarded by WST) this can result in more generous pockets. However, the pockets are not the only factor that differentiates a club table from a match table.

The cloth is another important factor that contributes to the differences between a racquet and a gaming table. Most will probably know that the gaming tables are finished with a finer cloth which allows for a stronger reaction from the cue ball. This can be a difficult transition for a club player used to playing at their regular table as they adjust to the speed of a finer cloth at a professional table. It is quickly noticed that screwing or other positional shots on a match table require less force, which can be quite difficult for amateur players to get used to.

The cloth used on competition tables is Strachan’s West of England No. 10 Cloth, a lightweight 100% wool material weighing approximately 30 ounces. Club tables tend to be heavier and require less retooling, but they are a more cost-effective alternative to outfitting all tables with tournament-grade Strachan cloth. Because of this, many snooker clubs have a number of tables to play at as well as a table or two that are charged at a higher hourly rate.

Finally, the balls used on a gaming table may differ from those used on a club table. Much like the bags have to conform to a specific template, snooker balls have a tolerance of 3 grams, which means there can’t be more than 3 grams of difference in weight between a set of snooker balls. The tournament balls used go one step further. Aramith 1g balls are used for professional tournaments maintaining a 1 gram tolerance and providing a consistent weight for a set of snooker balls.

Of course, there are other things to consider, such as: Factors such as under-table heating, frequent clothing re-fitting, general table maintenance and ambient temperature all provide a great playing field for professionals to compete on. And it doesn’t take long for even the newest players to notice the difference between playing at a snooker match table and a club table.

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Have you ever played pool and wondered if the pockets are the same size as another table you’ve played at? Maybe the table you play at looks completely different and the pockets look different too.

So are pool table bags universal?

Although there are different sized bags depending on the size of the table, they are all universal in the fact that they are the same size relative to the size of the table you are playing at. For example; If you play at a 4 foot table, the pockets are smaller than the pockets at an 8 foot table. The pockets in America are also a different size than the pockets in other countries on their pool tables.

If you want to learn more about pool tables and their bags, you should continue reading this article. You can also watch this video which shows the difference in bag sizes and how different manufacturers design their bags to fit the ball easier than others.

what is pool

Pool is a general term that alludes to a wide range of billiards games, the most popular being games such as 9-ball and 8-ball pool, among others. Nine-Ball is played with nine balls in a gem rack, named one through nine. Eight ball is played in fifteen shots in a full triangle rack.

Pool is a general name for games played on tables with six pockets of different lengths (7′, 8′, 9′) containing famous games. Some of these games are eight-ball, nine-ball, and straight pool. All of these games are played on a six-pocket table; one in each corner and one on each side of the table.

American bags and pillows

With the larger ball size at American tables, the pockets in America are additionally larger. Pockets on American tables are wide enough to fit two American billiard balls side by side in the “claws” of the pocket. American pool uses a larger table with larger pockets. The rules also differ from the players trying to use the same set of balls.

English billiards is played at a small table, with one player shooting yellow and one player shooting red before the final black comes. They are very different games.

American pool tables are generally larger, starting at 7 feet and going up to 9.5 feet. As mentioned above, the pockets are significantly larger than in English pool to accommodate the larger 2¼” balls.

The corner pockets are full and inviting, making long shots along with the pads easier than on an English table. However, the center pockets are not as open as on English tables; They have a “straight cut” style as opposed to opening at one point. American billiard tables also generally have faster material which makes for a faster game.

These subtle contrasts result in different styles of play, making English pool a little slower and more attentive, while American pool is more direct and extra energizing.

The condition of the bag is also calculated, almost to the point that the pads look like cutting edges against the surface. In most cases, the balls find their way into the pocket. On the other hand, shooting into the side pockets is becoming more and more troublesome, requiring easier handling of the pocket.

It’s far from difficult to see why English balls aren’t used at American tables. If you put an English ball in the opening of one of the pockets, you can see exactly how much smaller the English billiard balls are. The smaller balls are almost lost when they fall into the pockets! Similarly, the higher point of contact on the pads often means that smaller balls will not respond appropriately, as they will hit the pad at a lower position than intended.

American style pool table pocket openings offer tremendous straight cutting capabilities and it is the standard pool table style for 8 and 9 ball competitions.

English bags and pillows

Similar to an American table, the pocket of an English pool table is smaller because the balls themselves are smaller. Also, just like an American table, English pockets generally allow a similar amount of room in the pocket compared to the size of the ball.

English pool tables are 6ft or 7ft long which is the standard size in bars and clubs across the UK. The balls are 2″ and on coin pool tables the signal ball is 1 7/8″.

Red and yellow balls are the most common, but many tend to have American-style solids and stripes. Since the balls in the English pool are smaller than in the American pool, the table bags are correspondingly smaller. The style of the game also implies that the “claws” of the corner pockets are smaller, while the middle pockets are more open than the American ones, which allows you to shoot from a narrower edge

The shape of the bag is also recognizable as unique. An English bag has a noticeably smoother passage into the bag than the straighter and sleeker American bags. Practically the opposite of an American table, English corner pockets are always more difficult to shoot into a track that can be deduced from the edge of the pocket. On the other hand, side pockets are a lot easier to pull on an English table! The lack of a progressive positive section makes the side pockets the best pockets to shoot for.

English pads also have a somewhat unusual shape. A level, the resilient pad is standard on an English table, with the fabric at this point having an edge up to the playing surface.

Conclusion

Now that we know, British and American pool tables differ largely in appearance. These distinctions make contrasts in gameplay understanding. If you play in a bar or club every now and then it would actually be fine to play at a UK table. Although very few places in the United States have a UK table, they are fun to play at.

American pool tables are more accessible and now they even have smaller versions of the table for younger people and smaller people to play that have never played before. This helps the next generation learn billiards long before they can lie on a 9 foot table.

English tables offer more tests for those who need to improve their skills. However, the American style pool table is generally used around the world.

If you plan to enter a competition, you need to practice on an American table. Since you live in the United States, you probably play at an American table all the time. That means you most likely didn’t even know that there are different sized tables and pockets and rules for different parts of the country.

Whether you’re playing for fun or want to be a world champion one day, you have to start somewhere, and the most important thing about gaming is just to have fun.

Now that you know that table pockets vary in size, you can rest assured that you are always playing with the correct pocket size at the official tables to ensure consistent play.

What are the standard sizes and dimensions of pool tables and how big is the space for each?

Standard size pool tables, along with the dimensions of the playing surface (measured between the noses of the cushions):

12ft (snooker): 140″ (356.9cm) x 70″ (177.8cm)

(Snooker): 140″ (356.9 cm) x 70″ (177.8 cm) 10 ft (Oversized): 112″ (284.5 cm) x 56″ (142.2 cm)

(oversized): 284.5 cm (112″) x 142.2 cm (56″)

(Standard Regulatory Sizing Chart): 100″ (254 cm) x 50″ (127 cm) 8-Foot+ (Pro 8): 92″ (233.7 cm) x 46″ (116.8 cm)

(per 8): 92″ (233.7cm) x 46″ (116.8cm) 8-foot (typical home table): 88″ (223.5cm) x 44″ (111.8cm)

(typical home table): 88″ (223.5cm) x 44″ (111.8cm) 7ft + (large “barbox”): 78-82″ (198.1-208.3cm) x 39-41 ″ (99.1-104.1cm)

+ (large “barbox”): 78-82″ (198.1-208.3cm) x 39-41″ (99.1-104.1cm) 7-ft (“barbox”): 74-78″ (188-198.1cm) x 37-39″ (94-99.1cm)

(“Barbox”): 74-78″ (188-198.1 cm) x 37-39″ (94-99.1 cm) 6-foot (“Small Barbox”): 70-74″ (177.8- 188cm) x 35-37″ (88.9-94cm)

The distance between the diamonds is obtained by dividing the length of the playing surface by 8 or the width by 4.

See the data table below for recommended room sizes.

For more information see: Wikipedia pool table dimensions resource page.

from RSB FAQ:

The minimum space for a table is the playing surface plus the length of a cue (58″) plus about 6 inches for the backswing, more for comfort, on each side. Which gives:

play table

Room size area

(feet, inches) room size

(meters) 8′ 44″ x 88″ 14’4″ x 18′ 4.37m x 5.49m 8+’ 46″ x 92″ 14’6″ x 18’4″ 4.42m x 5.59m 9′ 50″ x 100″ 14′ 10″ x19′ 4.52m x 5.79m 12′ (Snooker) 70″ x 140.5″ 16’6″ x 22’5″ 5.03m x 6.83m

“Seven-foot” tables vary in size. Work down from the 8 foot dimensions. “8+” is an “oversized” 8-foot table. If your room doesn’t meet these minimum size requirements, many billiard dealers suggest that you can still set up a table and use short cues (52″ or 48″). Many people have found that they are unhappy having to resort to shorter cues and should have either gotten a smaller table or no table at all. Of course, others have a different opinion – they are happy about every table. In the end, only you will know whether you are satisfied with the room dimensions and need brief information. Before you spend $2000 on a table that has you smashing the walls in frustration, try the following:

(1) Find an indulgent pool hall when it’s not full.

(2) Measure your space (home) carefully, including the distance from the table to any walls that require a special notice

(3) With a piece or pieces of plywood or similar and a quick hint, go into the pool hall and set up the “walls” to replicate the walls of your house. Play for several hours and use the short hint when needed. Between two tables you can get by with about the length of a cue, the limit does not result from the cue, but from the fact that the player can go into his position between the tables. Deluxe rooms really need more space on all sides to be able to move possible passers-by without colliding with the players.

from realkingcobra (on AZB):

A 4 1/2 x 9 foot pool table is measured end of rail to end of rail.

4 1/2 feet = 54″

9ft = 108″

Take the playing surface of a 9 foot pool table it is 50″x100″ now add the 2″ fabric on the cushions on the side rails to the playing surface what you get is 2″ cushion/fabric on the left side rail , plus 2″ of fabric/cushion on right side rail, plus 50″ of playing surface side-to-side. Now add that together and you have 2″+2″+50″ = 54″, which is 4 1/2 feet.

Now if you double that measurement you would add 4 side rails at 2″ each…remember you are DOUBLING the width, that is, instead of just adding 2 rails you would add the width of 4 rails, at 2″ each, plus you would double the width of the table side-to-side with 50″ twice, so that’s 100″…now you add…2″+2″+2″+2″+50″+50″= 108″, which is 9 feet corresponds EXCEPT…we all know that all pool tables only have 2 end rails and NOT 4 so to keep the playing surface twice as long as it is wide…you need to subtract 2 of those 4 rails as ghost rails…meaning they aren’t really on the Billiard table are available. So if you subtract the 4″ of the ghost rails from the 9 feet…108″ that you leave with 104″, you now subtract the 4″ of fabric/cushions that ARE on the table and you ended up getting 100″…so So you have a 50″x100″ playing surface from a 4 1/2 x 9 pool table.

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Demonstrate

Does the black 8-ball go in the opposite pocket or in the same pocket as the last striped ball? How do you position yourself in straight pool when the cue ball and the last object ball are in the triangle? Is it possible to win 10 ball with a combination? And what is a point shot in the Philippine rotation? Some questions come up more often at the pool table than others. To be safe, we answer them all in our ultimate guide to the rules and information for all common pool variants.

After a foul, the other player always has the ball in hand and can place the cue ball anywhere on the table for their next shot. The only exception is the break. If the player commits a foul here, the other player may only move the cue ball inside the kitchen and may only play balls that are outside the kitchen first.

After the half-time shot, the person authorized to take over the position is basically free to choose which group he or she would like to take over. Even if only “stripes” are holed on the break, the player can choose the “solids” if he thinks they are better. The groups are only finally assigned when the player has pocketed a ball in accordance with the rules. As long as the groups have not yet been assigned, “mixed” combinations can also be played, e.g. a “solid” may be played first and a called “stripe” may be pocketed in a called pocket. The eight must never be played first.

If both the cue ball and the black eight are pocketed, the opponent decides whether to play again or take over the position with the black ball rediscovered. In this case, he then has “ball in hand” from the kitchen.

If the black eight is pocketed at the break, the player who has the next shot can decide whether to do it

If no four balls touch a lane, the break is illegal. The player who did not break then has a choice

During the break, the cue ball can be placed anywhere in the kitchen. No specific ball may be hit first and no ball called. If a ball is pocketed during the break, the break is automatically valid and the breaker remains at the table. If no ball is holed, at least four object balls must strike one or more rails after the cue ball first makes contact with the rack for the break to be valid. If this is fulfilled, the shot changes and the other player takes over.

Tip: We recommend the Magic Ball Rack for the perfect storage of the balls. And here you will find all products related to the balls.

The object of the game is to pot all the balls in your group and then the black eight. The pocket for the eight must be announced, but can be re-selected on each attempt. According to official WPA (World Pool Association) rules, the eight does not have to be played into the same or opposite pocket as the ball last potted. However, such rule variations are quite possible and common.

8-Ball is a called shot game. So in order to pot a ball correctly and continue playing, you must first call out which ball is to be sunk into which pocket. Combinations are generally permitted. A player must always hit a ball in his group first in order to make a correct shot. There is no need to make a call for obvious shots.

8-Ball is the most popular and widely used game variant in billiards. The game is played with all 15 object balls, which are divided into the groups “solid” (1-7) and “striped” balls (9-15) and the black eight. The first regular holed ball after the break decides which player plays which group.

9-Ball is the classic among the rotation games, i.e. the games in which the balls have to be hit and pocketed in ascending order. In order to make a correct shot, the object ball with the lowest number of balls remaining on the table must always be hit first. When this is met and an object ball is pocketed, it is the player’s turn.

goal of the game

The winner of a 9 ball game is the player who sinks the 9 with a correct shot. It doesn’t matter whether it’s the last object ball to fall with a normal shot, a valid combination over another ball, or purely by accident, as long as the rules for a correct shot are met. Also sinking the 9 at the kick-off automatically leads directly to winning the game if the kick-off was executed correctly. In addition, a game can be won if the opponent commits a foul in three consecutive shots (see three foul rule).

How to line up the balls

The balls 1-9 are arranged in a rhombus

One comes forward

Nine goes in the middle

The remaining balls are placed randomly

In the standard variant, one is placed at the base. Depending on the tournament order, the nines can also be placed on the foot point, especially in professional play, and the rack can thus be set up higher.

Tip: We recommend the Magic Ball Rack for the perfect storage of the balls. And here you will find all products related to ball cracking.

break shot

At kick-off, the cue ball may be placed anywhere in the head area. The one in front must be hit first or it is a foul.

If an object ball is pocketed during the break, the break is automatically valid and the player taking the break stays at the table. If no ball is holed, at least four object balls must strike one or more rails after the cue ball first makes contact with the rack for the break to be valid. When this is met, the shot changes and the other player takes over how it lies.

If no four balls touch a lane, the break is illegal. The player who did not shoot then has a choice

to accept the picture as it is anyway

Have the other player shoot again

shoot yourself

Kitchen rule (3-point rule)

In addition to the standard rules, many 9-ball events use the kitchen rule or the 3-point rule. Thereafter, at least three object balls must travel back into or through the kitchen after the break for a correct break to occur. It is enough if the head string is touched, the ball does not have to cross it completely. Potted balls are automatically deducted from the 3-point rule. So if a ball is sunk, only two have to go to the kitchen. If two balls are pocketed, only one has to go to the kitchen. If three or more balls are potted, the kitchen rule is automatically fulfilled. All other combinations mean an “illegal break”. If such an illegal break occurs, the player taking over can decide whether to take over the situation or let the player who caused the illegal break play on. If the player takes over, a correct shot must be taken on the lowest remaining ball on the table. If the shot is played back, the person who caused the illegal kick-off may continue the game with a push-out.

On the first shot after the break, the eligible player is allowed to play a push-out. This option is useful when a correct shot at the lowest ball is not possible or difficult. A push-out is a free kick, so to speak, to which no rules apply. The cue ball just has to stay on the table, otherwise it’s a foul. However, no rail needs to be touched and no object ball needs to be touched. The game ball can be pushed a few centimeters forwards or backwards. After the push-out, the other player decides whether to take the newly created position or return play to the player who pushed out. It is therefore advisable not to leave the opponent with a situation that is neither too easy nor too difficult, as otherwise you usually have to continue playing yourself.

A push-out must be clearly promised to the opponent before it is executed.

foul shots

A foul occurs when

The game ball is put in a pocket

the cue ball does not touch any other ball

the cue ball or an object ball bounces off the table

a ball other than the lowest ball on the table is touched first

After the first contact of the cue ball with an object ball, no ball touches at least one lane or is pocketed

The cue ball is touched several times during the shot (push shot foul)

touches a ball or balls with a cue stick, body, clothing or otherwise

a throw occurs while at least one ball is still moving on the table

At least one foot of the player does not touch the ground during the shot

Three Foul Rule

If a player commits a foul in three consecutive shots, he loses the game. It is important that before a possible third foul he is clearly warned by his opponent (or by the referee) that he has already committed two consecutive fouls and that if he committed another foul the game would be lost. If this warning is not given, the third foul has only the normal consequences of a normal foul.

10-Ball is an evolution of 9-Ball and, in contrast, a called shot game. In principle, the player must announce before each shot which ball is to be sunk into which pocket. No call is required for obvious shots.

The game is played with balls from 1 to 10. In order to make a correct shot, the object ball with the lowest number of balls remaining on the table must always be played first. When this is satisfied and the called object ball is pocketed in the called pocket, it is the player’s turn.

goal of the game

The winner of a 10-ball game is the player who sinks the last ball on the table – the 10 – into the called pocket with a correct shot. In addition, a game can be won if the opponent commits a foul in three consecutive shots (see three foul rule).

Pocket ball 10 early

If ball 10 is pocketed while other balls are still on the table, it will be spotted again. Before the next shot, the ball is placed on the foot spot. If this is blocked by other balls, the 10-ball is placed from below as close as possible to the foot spot without touching another ball.

If the 10 is pocketed prematurely during the break or with a correctly called combination shot, the player may continue his shot after the 10 is rediscovered. If the 10 is pocketed without being called, the other player can choose to take the position or let the opponent play on.

Stewballs not named

If the called ball is pocketed correctly during a shot, any number of other balls can also be pocketed. These remain in the pockets and the player continues to shoot the lowest remaining ball on the table with one shot. The only exception is the 10 ball, which is dropped again after it has been put in early.

If, during a shot, the called ball is not pocketed, but a ball is pocketed without a correct call, that ball also remains in the pocket and the other player can decide whether to take the position or let the opponent play on. Balls that are either not nominated at all or fall into a pocket other than the nominated pocket will be deemed improperly holed.

How to line up the balls

Balls 1-10 are placed in a triangle.

One comes first

The ten goes in the middle

The remaining balls are placed randomly

Tip: We recommend the Magic Ball Rack for the perfect storage of the balls. And here you will find all products related to ball cracking.

break shot

At kick-off, the cue ball may be placed anywhere in the head area. The one ball in front must be hit first, otherwise it is a foul.

If an object ball is pocketed during the break, the break is automatically valid and the player taking the break stays at the table. If no ball is holed, at least four object balls must strike one or more rails after the cue ball first makes contact with the rack for the break to be valid. When this is met, the shot changes and the other player takes over how it lies.

If no four balls touch a lane, the break is illegal. The player who did not shoot then has a choice

to accept the picture as it is anyway

Have the other player shoot again

shoot yourself

Kitchen rule (3-point rule)

In addition to the standard rules, some 10-ball events use the kitchen rule or the 3-point rule. Thereafter, at least three object balls must travel back into or through the kitchen after the break for a correct break to occur. It is enough if the head string is touched, the ball does not have to cross it completely. Potted balls are automatically deducted from the 3-point rule. So if a ball is sunk, only two have to go to the kitchen. If two balls are pocketed, only one has to go to the kitchen. If three or more balls are potted, the kitchen rule is automatically fulfilled. All other combinations mean an “illegal break”. If such an illegal break occurs, the player taking over can decide whether to take over the situation or let the player who caused the illegal break play on. If the player takes over, a correct shot must be taken on the lowest remaining ball on the table. If the shot is played back, the person who caused the illegal kick-off may continue the game with a push-out.

On the first shot after the break, the player eligible to shoot may play a push-out. This option is useful when a correct shot at the lowest ball is not possible or difficult. A push-out is a free kick, so to speak, to which no rules apply. The cue ball just has to stay on the table, otherwise it’s a foul. However, no rail needs to be touched and no object ball needs to be touched. The game ball can also be pushed a few centimeters forwards or backwards. After the push-out, the other player decides whether to take the newly created position or return play to the player who pushed out. It is therefore advisable not to leave the opponent with a situation that is neither too easy nor too difficult, as otherwise you usually have to continue playing yourself.

A push-out must be clearly promised to the opponent before it is executed.

fouls

A foul occurs when

The game ball is put in a pocket

the cue ball does not touch any other ball

the cue ball or an object ball bounces off the table

a ball other than the lowest ball on the table is touched first

After the first contact of the cue ball with an object ball, no ball touches at least one lane or is pocketed

The cue ball is touched several times during the shot (push shot foul)

touches a ball or balls with a cue stick, body, clothing or otherwise

a throw occurs while at least one ball is still moving on the table

At least one foot of the player does not touch the ground during the shot

Three Foul Rule

If a player commits a foul in three consecutive shots, he loses the game. It is important that before a possible third foul he is clearly warned by his opponent (or by the referee) that he has already committed two consecutive fouls and that if he committed another foul the game would be lost. If this warning is not given, the third foul has only the normal consequences of a normal foul.

14.1 Continuous / Straight Pool

14.1 Continuous is the original form of billiards and in the USA, mostly known as “Straight Pool”, it is still the supreme discipline of the sport for many billiards fans. It is played with a full set of balls from 1-15 and is a called shot game. All object balls are equal. If a ball is pocketed with the correct declaration of ball and pocket, the player receives a point. If other balls are pocketed in addition to the called ball, these also count as one point. The player stays at the table and can continue his shot until he misses a called shot, voluntarily stops with a safe, or wins the game.

When there is only one object ball left on the table, the other 14 balls are reassembled into a triangle, missing only the top ball, which would be right on the foot spot. The remaining object ball and cue ball remain in the positions where they came to rest after the last shot, and the player can continue play.

The trick now is, with a correct shot, to open the triangle again and continue the game. Classically, this is attempted by potting the last free ball and then running the cue ball into the remaining 14 balls to break them up. However, it would be equally possible, albeit infinitely more difficult, to call and hole a ball from the closed triangle into a specific pocket.

As long as a correct shot sinks the announced ball into the announced pocket, the player can continue his streak indefinitely. Hence the name 14.1 “continuous”. It is also possible and not uncommon in professional circles that a player hardly or not at all comes to the table because the other player sinks his 100 balls in a row. The unofficial record streak by a player is 714 potted balls.

goal of the game

The aim of the game is to reach a set or pre-game agreed score. The usual goal is 100 points. Longer distances are also played in the professional sector. Shorter distances (50, 60, 75) are recommended for beginners, recreational and lower-level players.

In order to limit playing time, it is also common to limit the number of innings (= table visits) per player. For example, 30-40 innings is a common limit for a race to 100. Once both players have completed their 40 innings and neither player has reached the tie goal, the current score will be used to determine the winner.

If the result is a tie when both players have completed their last inning, the game is extended by five innings. If there is still no winner, the game will be extended by one inning per player pending a decision. The game situation on the table always remains as it is, it is not changed in overtime.

How to line up the balls

Balls 1-15 are set up in a triangle. The positions of the balls do not matter and are random. The foremost ball is on the foot spot.

When restacking the 14 balls balls between the racks, the balls are also randomly positioned as a triangle. The foremost position at the base remains empty.

Here you will find all products related to ball cracking.

Peculiarities of racking in the game

If the cue ball or the last object ball remaining on the table is preventing the 14 balls from being reinserted by blocking the “triangle,” the following rules apply.

If both cue ball and object ball are in the triangle, all 15 object balls are built into a complete triangle and the cue ball must be played ball-in-hand from the kitchen area.

If only the remaining object ball is in the triangle, it is spotted head on. If the head point is blocked by the cue ball, it is placed on the center point.

If the ball is in the triangle, the game continues in the kitchen with free choice of position (ball-in-hand).

Exception: The remaining object sphere is also in the kitchen. In this case, the game ball must be turned upside down. If this is occupied by the object ball, the game ball is placed on the middle point.

Position of the 15th ball Position of the cue ball In the triangle Neither in the triangle nor on the head spot On the head spot In the triangle 15th ball: foot spot

Game ball: Kitchen 15. Ball: Head point

Cue ball: stays where it is 15. Ball: center point

Game ball: stays where he is. 15th ball: foot point

Game ball: kitchen 15. Ball: foot point

Game ball: stays where it is 15th ball: foot point

Cue ball: stays where it is In the kitchen, but not on the head 15. Ball: stays where it is

Game ball: Header Neither in the kitchen nor in the triangle 15. Ball: stays where it is

Game ball: kitchen on head point 15. Ball: stays where it is

Cue Ball: Center

Source: Wikipedia

Rediscover individual object balls

A holed object ball is rediscovered when

A foul was committed when the shot was fired

The called ball was not pocketed in the same shot

The ball was pocketed when a safety was taken

The object ball in question is always placed on the stepping point. If this is blocked, the ball is placed in the middle as close as possible to the foot point of the foot rail. If several balls are to be played again after a shot, each one is played individually according to the above principle.

break shot

At break-off, at least two object balls and the cue-ball must touch a rail or a declared object ball must be pocketed for a correct break-off to occur. Otherwise, the player who kicked off gets two penalty points and the opponent can either take the position or request a reset. In this case, he can have the counter-attack executed again or take over the kick-off himself. If the same player goes on with a second break shot, it still counts towards the first inning. Several break-shot fouls in a row are possible, the points of which are all attributed to the first inning. For example, a score of -10 (= five break shot fouls) is possible in the first inning. A “normal” foul (e.g. pocketing a cue ball) is only punished with a minus point and cannot lead to a new break.

fouls

A foul occurs when

The ball is pocketed

the cue ball does not touch any other ball

the cue ball or an object ball bounces off the table

After the first contact of the cue ball with an object ball, no ball touches at least one lane or is pocketed

The cue ball is touched several times during the shot (push shot foul)

moving a ball or balls with a cue, body, clothing or any other means

a throw occurs while at least one ball is still moving on the table

At least one of the player’s feet does not touch the ground during the shot.

After a foul game, the game is generally continued with the same game situation. There is no ball in hand. Only when the ball is pocketed or leaves the table can the other player continue from the kitchen with a free choice of position.

minuses

A foul is always penalized with a minus point. A player’s score can therefore be negative. Three fouls in a row result in 15 minus points. In this case, the player who has already committed two fouls in a row must be advised before his next shot that he has already accumulated two fouls.

If a player commits a third foul in a row despite a warning, a minus point is calculated for the foul and then a further 15 minus points are deducted. The entire rack is then rebuilt and the player who committed the three fouls must restart play with a correct break-off (see break-off).

A pocket

One Pocket is one of the most popular pool variants in the USA and is particularly popular among gambling circles. Each player is assigned one of the two pockets at the foot of the table and can only score by potting balls into that pocket. The other four pockets are neutral. Nothing needs to be called. Each ball pocketed in one’s own pocket with a correct shot counts as one point.

goal of the game

The player who gets eight points first wins a game. An overall goal for a game can be agreed in advance. For a match, races to 3 or 5 are common.

How to tear up the balls

Balls 1-15 are set up as a triangle. The positions of the balls do not matter and are random. The ball in front is placed on the foot spot.

Here you will find all products related to ball cracking.

break shot

Before the break, the starting player must name which of the two pockets at the foot of the table he will choose for his balls. The other player is automatically assigned the other bag. In practice, the bid is often omitted, since in the classic one-pocket opening shot, the majority of the balls are always clearly moved in the direction of a pocket, and it is clear from this which pocket the player chooses. When breaking from the left, the player then plays the right pocket and vice versa.

The game is always played with alternating breaks. Before each new rack, the breaker can choose which pocket to play.

During the break, the ball can be placed anywhere in the kitchen and must be played out of it. Either an object ball or a rail may be hit first. In any case, at least one object ball must be hit and after this contact, another ball must hit at least one rail for a correct shot to be made. If a ball is pocketed during the kick-off, the kick-off is basically correct. However, in these cases, a re-rack is sometimes performed and the kick-off re-run.

If the above conditions are not met, it is a foul and the player gets a minus point. The other player must still take the picture as it is. There is no ball in hand. If the cue ball is pocketed on the opening shot, the other player must continue play by shooting with a vacant position from the kitchen.

The game

A player is allowed to continue their stroke as long as they pocket one or more balls in their own pocket with correct strokes. If a ball is sunk – intentionally or unintentionally – into a neutral pocket or an opponent’s pocket and a ball is not sunk into one’s own pocket at the same time, the right to shoot changes. Balls that are neutrally holed are replaced after the shot. Balls pocketed in the opponent’s pocket count one point for the opponent. The only exception is when an opponent’s ball is potted and a foul is committed, either by potting the cue ball or by having the cue ball fly off the table. Then the pocketed ball is spotted out of the opponent’s pocket again.

If a player correctly pots both their last ball and their opponent’s last ball in one stroke, the executing player wins the game.

There are no called safety or safety shots. If a ball is pocketed in the correct pocket, the player must continue his shot.

Jump queuing is not allowed in One Pocket. However, it is allowed to perform jumpshots with the complete queue.

fouls

Each foul results in a minus point. So the player who committed the foul must pass a ball out of his pocket and put it back on. Balls pocketed during a foul must be pocketed immediately afterwards, along with the offending player’s penalty ball. Balls pocketed in the opponent’s pocket are only put up again if the cue ball was pocketed or carried off the table at the same time. For other fouls, such as B. a push shot foul or an illegal ball contact, the opponent’s ball stays in the pocket and counts.

If a player has no balls in his pocket to “pay” for a foul, he owes a ball. This should be recorded in some form by writing it down or marking it. Balls that are owed must be replaced as soon as possible, but only at the end of an inning. Only when all debts are settled can the player start collecting balls in his pocket.

Deliberate fouls are a common tactic in one pocket. However, a correct shot must always be taken, even if the cue ball is pocketed on purpose, moved just a millimeter, or no attempt is made to hit another ball. After an illegal shot, the eligible player can choose to accept the table situation or restore the image prior to the foul.

Three Foul Rule

After three consecutive fouls, the game is lost. However, as in rotation games, a player must be advised by the referee or opponent that he has already committed two fouls before taking the next shot and committing a third foul. In practice, the three foul rule is often waived if both players agree.

Rediscover balls

Balls to be respotted are always placed directly on the foot point. If this is not completely clear, the ball is placed from the foot rail on the line to the foot spot as close as possible without touching another ball. If everything is blocked from the foot spot to the foot rail, the ball is pitched over the foot spot.

Balls are always pitched at the end of an inning. The only exception to this rule is if a player sinks the last ball on the table without either player reaching their rack, any balls to be re-stacked are immediately tucked and the player may continue their shot.

disabilities

It is common practice, particularly in gaming circles, to play one pocket with handicaps to compensate for differences in skill levels. For example, it can be agreed that one player normally needs his eight balls to win, but the other only needs six (8-6) or the better player needs to sink even more balls (e.g. 10-6). If more than the 15 balls available are needed to reach the draw goals, the player with the higher goal must reset balls holed at the end of his shot until the goal is within reach of both players. Bei einem Handicap von 12-8 müsste also der bessere Spieler seine ersten vier richtig eingelochten Bälle wieder aufsetzen. Aber natürlich zählen die erzielten Punkte.

Bankpool

Beim Bank Pool dürfen Pockets nur als sogenannte Bank Shots über die Rail eingelocht werden. Grundsätzlich darf jeder Objektball auf dem Tisch gespielt werden und alle sechs Taschen stehen zur Verfügung. Das Ziel des Spiels ist es, mit korrekt angesagten und eingelochten Bank-Shots als Erster das Punkteziel zu erreichen. Ein eingelochter Ball zählt einen Punkt.

9-Ball-Banken

In 9-Ball-Banken werden neun beliebige Bälle zu einer Raute angeordnet, genau wie beim klassischen 9-Ball. Der erste Spieler, der fünf Punkte erreicht, ist der Gewinner.

Vollständige Rack-Bänke

Bei Full Rack Banks sind alle 15 Bälle wie beim klassischen 8-Ball als Dreieck aufgebaut. Der erste Spieler, der acht Punkte erreicht, ist der Gewinner.

Tipp: Für die perfekte Ablage der Bälle empfehlen wir das Magic Ball Rack. Und hier finden Sie alle Produkte rund ums Bällekrachen.

The game

Bank Pool ist ein Called-Shot-Spiel. Für jeden Schlag müssen der zu versenkende Ball, die anvisierte Tasche und die Flugbahn des Balls einschließlich benutzter Schienen genannt werden. In offensichtlichen Situationen, wie dem klassischen »One Rail Bank in the Middle«, ist keine Ansage notwendig. Wenn ein Ball versehentlich auf einer anderen als der beabsichtigten Bahn eingelocht wird, wurde er nicht korrekt eingelocht und wird wieder eingelocht. Es gibt keine Strafe, das Recht zu schießen ändert sich.

Solange ein Spieler die angesagten Bälle korrekt versenkt, kann er seinen Schlag fortsetzen. Pro Schuss kann nur ein Punkt erzielt werden. Werden zusätzlich zu einem korrekt eingelochten Ball weitere Bälle eingelocht, werden diese am Ende des Schusses wieder aufgelegt. Ein Inning endet, wenn kein Ball korrekt versenkt, ein Foul begangen oder das Punkteziel erreicht wird.

Damit ein Bank Shot legal eingesteckt wird und einen Punkt zählt, müssen die folgenden Anforderungen erfüllt sein:

Der Ball muss »sauber« versenkt werden. Auf dem Weg in die Tasche darf kein anderer Ball berührt werden.

Die Spielkugel muss immer zuerst die einzulochende Objektkugel treffen. Kombinationen und Karambolschläge sind nicht erlaubt

Der Spielball muss den Objektball treffen, bevor er auf eine Schiene trifft. Der Objektball darf nicht über eine Schiene gespielt werden. Keine Rail-First-Schüsse.

Die Spielkugel darf die Objektkugel auf ihrem Weg in die Tasche nur einmal berühren. Jede weitere Berührung führt dazu, dass der Ball nicht richtig versenkt und wieder auf den Platz gelegt wird

Neben den offiziellen Regeln gibt es weit verbreitete Variationen, die das Spiel interessanter oder sogar einfacher machen. Die beliebteste Regel ist, dass Sie Bälle versenken können, ohne die Schiene zu berühren, wenn Sie mindestens drei Schienen treffen, bevor Sie den Objektball treffen. Auf diese Weise kann man auch etwas mit Bällen machen, die in der Nähe einer Tasche liegen und nicht als Bankschlag gespielt werden können. Eine andere Variante erlaubt Rail-First-Schüsse, wenn danach ein Bank-Shot versenkt wird.

Schuss brechen

9-Ball-Banken

Das Rack ist wie beim 9-Ball als Rhombus aufgebaut. The ball in front is on the foot spot and must be hit first during the break. For a legal break to occur, at least one ball must pass over the center into the other half of the table.

Full Rack Banks

The 15 balls are racked normally for the break. The foremost ball is on the foot spot. No particular ball must be hit first. For a legal break to occur, at least two object balls must hit a rail after the cue ball has touched the first object ball.

The goal in both cases is to pocket at least one ball on the break. If a ball is pocketed on the break, the player making the break may continue his shot. However, the pocketed balls do not count as points and are put back on at the end of the inning. If no ball is pocketed, the right to shoot changes and it is the other player’s turn.

If the criteria for a legal shot are not met, the other player can either take over the situation or ask the other player to take another shot. An illegal break shot is not a foul and is not penalized.

Fouls

A foul occurs when

the cue ball is pocketed into a pocket or bounces off the table

after the cue ball has touched the first object ball, not at least one ball is pocketed or touches a rail

Each foul leads to the end of the inning and results in a minus point. If a ball is correctly pocketed in the same shot, it does not count and is put back on. If a player has no points on the credit side at the time of a foul, he also gets a minus point and then owes one or more balls. The debt is settled by putting correctly pocketed balls back on at the end of an inning.

Incidentally, if an object ball flies off the table during a correct shot, it is not a foul and the ball is put back on.

If the cue ball remains on the table when a foul occurs, the other player must take over the situation as he finds it. There is no ball in hand.

If the cue ball leaves the table when a foul occurs, the ball-in-hand from the kitchen continues. The player entitled to take the cue ball must play forward from the kitchen. In the case that all remaining object balls are in the kitchen and therefore no correct shot is possible, the ball closest to the head string is taken away and placed on the foot spot.

Re-spotting of balls

Incorrectly or illegally pocketed as well as owed balls are, if possible, placed on the foot spot or in a direct line below it in the direction of the foot rail.

Balls are always re-spotted at the end of an inning. The only exception is when there are no more object balls on the table after a correctly pocketed ball, but the game is not yet decided. In this case, all balls that can be re-spotted are immediately re-spotted.

rotation

Rotation is one of the oldest games in pool and is played in different variations almost everywhere on the globe. It is considered the supreme discipline in many places and is recommended by some professionals as a training game to improve their own billiards game.

The game is played with a complete set of balls from 1 to 15. Just as in 9- or 10-ball, the lowest ball remaining on the table must always be hit first in order to make a correct shot.

Objective of the game

In rotation pool, each ball has the value corresponding to its number. Thus, one is worth one point, four is worth four points, and 15 is the most valuable ball. The goal of the game is to reach a certain number of points. Since there are a total of 120 points on the table at the beginning, typically 61 is the number of points that wins a game. However, handicaps can be agreed upon so that, for example, one player needs 70 and the other only 50.

If there is a tie of 60:60, the player who last pocketed a ball correctly and was second to reach 60 is typically declared the winner.

The game

Rotation Pool is not a called-shot game. As long as the lowest ball on the table is hit first with the cue ball and there is no foul, all balls pocketed on that shot count for the player whose turn it is. A shot ends when either no ball has been pocketed, a foul has been committed, or the run-out target has been reached.

How to set up the balls

When racking, four balls have fixed positions. The one goes to the very front on the base, the two and the three to the back two corners of the rack and the 15 as the most valuable ball to the center. All other balls are placed randomly.

Tip: For the perfect racking of the balls we recommend the Magic Ball Rack. And here you can find all products for racking the balls.

The break shot

To execute a correct break, at least one ball must be pocketed or four object balls must run into at least one rail. Otherwise, the same rules apply as in the entire game. The lowest ball, i.e. the one, must be hit first. If there is no foul and a ball is pocketed, the player continues his turn, otherwise the shot changes.

If the criteria for a legal break are not met, the other player can decide whether to

take over the picture as it lies and continue playing with ball-in-hand from the kitchen

set up again and break himself.

If, on the other hand, there is a break foul because the cue ball is pocketed or bounces off the table, play is continued in any case with ball-in-hand from the kitchen. However, the player entitled to take the shot may pass and force the player who committed the break foul to continue play with the situation as found.

Fouls

A foul is committed when

the cue ball does not touch the lowest ball on the table first

does not touch any ball at all

the cue ball is pocketed or flies off the table

after the contact of the cue ball with the object ball, no ball is pocketed or hits a rail

an object ball flies off the table

A special feature is the »one-ball-safety« rule. A player is allowed to play a safety only twice per rack, where the object ball to be played is simply rolled to the nearest rail, so as not to give the opponent an easy shot. The third »one-ball safe« in a rack thus also results in a foul.

All other common safe variations, however, where multiple balls are moved or multiple boards are hit, are not limited and are allowed at any time.

Three consecutive fouls by a player in a rack will result in the loss of the game.

After a foul, the player entitled to take the shot generally has the choice of taking the shot himself or allowing the fouling player to continue playing. If there is a foul where the cue ball left the table, play continues with ball-in-hand from the kitchen. However, this shot can also be given to the player who committed the foul.

In the case of ball-in-hand from the kitchen, it is mandatory to play the cue ball forward from the kitchen. If the lowest remaining object ball is in the kitchen and a direct hit is therefore impossible, this ball is placed on the foot spot.

Re-spotting balls

Balls that jump off the table or are pocketed in the course of a foul are put back on. In principle, the balls are placed on the foot spot or in a direct line to the foot rail as close as possible to the foot spot.

variations

Filipino Rotation

In the Philippines, rotation is the most popular pool variation besides 10-ball. There are some special rules to consider.

Jump cues are not allowed

In the case of kick shots, i.e. when one or more rails are hit first and then the object ball to be played is hit, no other rail needs to be touched after contact.

If a player lies completely save on the ball to be played and cannot play it directly, he can forego an attempt and offer the opponent a spot shot instead. The ball to be played is then placed on the foot spot and the other player continues to play with ball-in-hand from the head area.

After a no-hit foul, that is, when a player has failed to hit the lowest ball on the table with a correct shot, the player entitled to take the shot can either take it as it lies or take a spot shot himself. This is done by again placing the lowest object ball on the foot spot and playing ball-in-hand from the head spot.

If, after a break foul, the lowest remaining object ball is in the head area, it is also placed on the foot spot and the player entitled to take a spot shot continues to play with ball-in-hand from the head area.

American Rotation

Pool tables don’t require much maintenance once set up and leveled outside of the occasional cleaning, but you can’t skip changing the felt. The quality of your felt will affect how well the balls move across the table, so it’s important that your felt is in good condition.

How long does pool table felt last? How long the felt will last on your pool table depends on how often you play pool and how well you take care of the felt. In general, if you play billiards on a daily basis, you can expect the felt to last 3-5 years.

If you don’t play daily (or almost daily), your felt can last twice as long. In this article, we’ll go over what you can do to extend the life of your felt and how to know when it’s time to replace it.

How to extend the life of pool table felt

If your pool table gets a lot of use, that’s fantastic. It means you’re getting your money’s worth off the table. However, it also means that your felt will wear out faster. The interaction between the felt, balls, and chalk on a pool table eventually causes the felt to wear out.

Even if you play daily, you can breathe more life into your felt by taking good care of it. We’ve put together this list of best practices to help you keep your felt in good condition for longer.

Use a pool table cover when the table is not in use.

Brush the table regularly to keep it clean.

Consider using a vacuum with an upholstery brush to remove chalk from the table.

Do not allow any drinks or food on or near the table.

Don’t take scoop shots.

Do not allow pets on the table.

Don’t chalk across the table.

Keep your billiard balls clean.

Wipe the rails. Dirt on the rails can get onto the bed.

Remember that sunlight will fade the felt.

If you follow these guidelines, your pool felt will surely last longer than if you didn’t. On the other hand, most people want to change their felt color long before the felt wears out. If you like to change up your decor often, special care may not be as important to you.

We have some very helpful posts if you are looking to remove a stain from your pool table or remove the chalk.

When to change your pool table felt

Because felt wear is largely dependent on how often you use your pool table, it’s not easy to remember your next felt change. You need to keep an eye on your felt.

Signs your felt needs changing:

It looks like it needs to be replaced. If the felt looks like it needs replacing, it most certainly does.

It feels bristly.

It has become corrupted.

It bulges when you push in with your hand.

It shows any signs of looseness.

If your pool table felt is showing any of these signs, whether you like it or not, it’s time to have it replaced.

How much does it cost to replace pool table felt?

Replacing the felt on a pool table will definitely cost hundreds of dollars. Most replacements cost between $300 and $500 depending on the size of the table and the quality of the felt.

You can save some money by buying a piece of felt from Pooldawg and re-felting the table yourself, but it’s not recommended. Even a small mistake can result in an annoyingly imperfect playing surface. But if you’re familiar with DIY methods and have thoroughly researched the process, it’s possible and will save you a few hundred dollars.

Similar to an American table, English pockets are smaller, with the width of the pocket determined by a ball-to-pocket ratio formula, i.e. H. Ball size x 1.6 = pocket opening with a tolerance of plus or minus 1/8 inch. This is measured by the slope of the pocket, for corner pockets the slope of the pocket is at the point where the projected lines of each pad surface intersect. For medium pockets, the halyard is the point where the ball should fall.

American pocket openings should be between 4.5 and 4.625 inches at the corner pockets and between 5 and 5.125 inches in the middle. The center pocket opening is traditionally ½ inch wider than the corner pocket opening. Professional tables also have a vertical pocket angle (back draft) between 12 and 14 degrees. This question is often asked by potential customers who are usually confused and frustrated with the differences between the two types of pool tables.

In general, American pool tables are physically larger than English pool tables. With a larger playing surface, slightly larger balls and wider pocket openings, responsive “pointy” rubber pads and a fast, pile-free cloth ensure high-speed play. American pool is often described as a faster game, with lots of rebounds and rebounds compared to the more strategic game of English pool.

English pool tables have a slower, more traditional woolen cloth, narrower pockets, L-shaped cushioning rubber profiles, and a smaller playing area that often includes more tactical “snooker” shots.

table sizes

bags

pillow

balls

What ball size do I need?

keywords

What is the difference between American and English cues? Can I use American cues on English tables?

Cloth

Important setup and delivery information

Tables in Stock – Please allow 5-7 days for delivery and installation in tri-state area. (Michigan, Indiana, Ohio).

Questions? Call us at 1-877-314-2837 and let us guide you through the purchase of your new Diamond Pro-Am pool table.

Pro-Am One Piece 1″ slate tables are designed to be shipped and installed in GROUND FLOOR rooms with a maximum of 2 steps to reach ground floor. Tables shipped to areas with more than 2 steps may require a special order of a Diamond Pro-Am 3 piece slate table.

If you have questions about availability in your region, shipping and setup details, or questions before purchasing, please call our toll-free number at 1-877-314-2837 or 517-279-7585 to speak with our Diamond Pool Table Specialist.

1. slate

All Diamond Pro-Ams come with 1″ 1-piece slate (3-piece slate is available for upstairs or downstairs installations.)

2. Professional cloth

All Pro-Ams are covered in Simonis Cloth, the choice of pro players from around the world.

3. RAILS

PRC Rails are burn and dent resistant. Phenolic resin pressed into the material gives the wood its durability and shine.

4. CUSHION

Tour-spec K-55 profile top-of-the-line rail dampers provide quick and precise response when bouncing off a rail. An additional ¼-inch top rail support wood was designed between the pad and the spring strip channel to provide consistent rail speed throughout.

5. BAGS

Prior art designed pockets are manufactured to be relatively flush with the rail with fewer pockets protruding above the rail. With a smoother transition from pocket to rail, pocket shots are similar to simply shooting from the rail.

6. WEDGE LEVELING SYSTEM

The Diamond Billiards 22 Wedge leveling system is built directly into the slate bed. This innovative wedge system allows the slate to be leveled by raising and adjusting 22 key points around the pool table without ever having to remove the track system. Exclusive to Diamond Billiards!

7. BALL RETURN

Extremely quiet and efficient ball return. Bagged balls are collected in the center of the table and then gravity fed to the back of the table. Access doors allow access to the ball return for effortless foreign object removal.

8. FEET

The leveling block is built right into the Pro-Am’s leg. By turning the ¾ inch nut, each leg can be effortlessly raised or lowered for precise leveling.

The PRO-AM is superior to other tables on the market in terms of construction, quality and materials, but most importantly its playability is second to none. Demanded by the most demanding professional players today, the Diamond Pro-Am quality of play has quickly gained the respect of not only professional players, but also amateur and casual players around the world and has quickly become the most sought-after pool table on the market today.

Room size requirements

are available for specific wood species, stains, fabric colors as well as many other modifications of the Diamond Pro Am tables. Please allow approximately 3 months manufacturing time for all custom orders. For more information on custom ordered Diamond pool tables, please call us directly at our toll free number: 1-877-314-283794″ X 54″ X 32″

table sizes

The biggest difference between American and English pool is the table size itself. American pool tables are larger than English pool tables because American pool uses larger balls and pockets. American billiard tables used in competitions are 9ft, but for convenience we have found that 7ft and 8ft tables are more common. This is because they fit into buildings more easily and take up less space. That being said, the smaller American pool tables are still perfectly capable of playing an excellent game of American pool.

English pool is played with smaller balls and smaller pockets, so competitive tables are only 6 feet tall. Therefore, tables are more practical for installation in apartments. English pool tables can be effective in a range of sizes, from 5 foot tables to 7 foot tables. If you are looking to purchase one of our pool tables and have limited space to work with, English Pool may be the game for you as these tables can be purchased in smaller sizes and are perfect where space is limited. Because the smaller tables are adaptable and take up less space, they still maintain a high standard of play.

That being said, we offer you choices in terms of table size and game type, this is just a guide and the norm for these two common game types.

*This post may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

Have you ever played pool and wondered if the pockets are the same size as another table you’ve played at? Maybe the table you play at looks completely different and the pockets look different too.

So are pool table bags universal?

Although there are different sized bags depending on the size of the table, they are all universal in the fact that they are the same size relative to the size of the table you are playing at. For example; If you play at a 4 foot table, the pockets are smaller than the pockets at an 8 foot table. The pockets in America are also a different size than the pockets in other countries on their pool tables.

If you want to learn more about pool tables and their bags, you should continue reading this article. You can also watch this video which shows the difference in bag sizes and how different manufacturers design their bags to fit the ball easier than others.

what is pool

Pool is a general term that alludes to a wide range of billiards games, the most popular being games such as 9-ball and 8-ball pool, among others. Nine-Ball is played with nine balls in a gem rack, named one through nine. Eight ball is played in fifteen shots in a full triangle rack.

Pool is a general name for games played on tables with six pockets of different lengths (7′, 8′, 9′) containing famous games. Some of these games are eight-ball, nine-ball, and straight pool. All of these games are played on a six-pocket table; one in each corner and one on each side of the table.

American bags and pillows

With the larger ball size at American tables, the pockets in America are additionally larger. Pockets on American tables are wide enough to fit two American billiard balls side by side in the “claws” of the pocket. American pool uses a larger table with larger pockets. The rules also differ from the players trying to use the same set of balls.

English billiards is played at a small table, with one player shooting yellow and one player shooting red before the final black comes. They are very different games.

American pool tables are generally larger, starting at 7 feet and going up to 9.5 feet. As mentioned above, the pockets are significantly larger than in English pool to accommodate the larger 2¼” balls.

The corner pockets are full and inviting, making long shots along with the pads easier than on an English table. However, the center pockets are not as open as on English tables; They have a “straight cut” style as opposed to opening at one point. American billiard tables also generally have faster material which makes for a faster game.

These subtle contrasts result in different styles of play, making English pool a little slower and more attentive, while American pool is more direct and extra energizing.

The condition of the bag is also calculated, almost to the point that the pads look like cutting edges against the surface. In most cases, the balls find their way into the pocket. On the other hand, shooting into the side pockets is becoming more and more troublesome, requiring easier handling of the pocket.

It’s far from difficult to see why English balls aren’t used at American tables. If you put an English ball in the opening of one of the pockets, you can see exactly how much smaller the English billiard balls are. The smaller balls are almost lost when they fall into the pockets! Similarly, the higher point of contact on the pads often means that smaller balls will not respond appropriately, as they will hit the pad at a lower position than intended.

American style pool table pocket openings offer tremendous straight cutting capabilities and it is the standard pool table style for 8 and 9 ball competitions.

English bags and pillows

Similar to an American table, the pocket of an English pool table is smaller because the balls themselves are smaller. Also, just like an American table, English pockets generally allow a similar amount of room in the pocket compared to the size of the ball.

English pool tables are 6ft or 7ft long which is the standard size in bars and clubs across the UK. The balls are 2″ and on coin pool tables the signal ball is 1 7/8″.

Red and yellow balls are the most common, but many tend to have American-style solids and stripes. Since the balls in the English pool are smaller than in the American pool, the table bags are correspondingly smaller. The style of the game also implies that the “claws” of the corner pockets are smaller, while the middle pockets are more open than the American ones, which allows you to shoot from a narrower edge

The shape of the bag is also recognizable as unique. An English bag has a noticeably smoother passage into the bag than the straighter and sleeker American bags. Practically the opposite of an American table, English corner pockets are always more difficult to shoot into a track that can be deduced from the edge of the pocket. On the other hand, side pockets are a lot easier to pull on an English table! The lack of a progressive positive section makes the side pockets the best pockets to shoot for.

English pads also have a somewhat unusual shape. A level, the resilient pad is standard on an English table, with the fabric at this point having an edge up to the playing surface.

Conclusion

Now that we know, British and American pool tables differ largely in appearance. These distinctions make contrasts in gameplay understanding. If you play in a bar or club every now and then it would actually be fine to play at a UK table. Although very few places in the United States have a UK table, they are fun to play at.

American pool tables are more accessible and now they even have smaller versions of the table for younger people and smaller people to play that have never played before. This helps the next generation learn billiards long before they can lie on a 9 foot table.

English tables offer more tests for those who need to improve their skills. However, the American style pool table is generally used around the world.

If you plan to enter a competition, you need to practice on an American table. Since you live in the United States, you probably play at an American table all the time. That means you most likely didn’t even know that there are different sized tables and pockets and rules for different parts of the country.

Whether you’re playing for fun or want to be a world champion one day, you have to start somewhere, and the most important thing about gaming is just to have fun.

Now that you know that table pockets vary in size, you can rest assured that you are always playing with the correct pocket size at the official tables to ensure consistent play.

How do you play billiards? There are many variations of billiards with different playing styles and strategies, but the most common games are straight pool, rotation games and eight-ball. Straight pool games allow players to shoot openly at every ball on the table to earn points. Rotational (nine-ball) games require players to shoot balls in order from one to nine. Eight-ball is played, with each player shooting either the striped or solid balls until they’ve successfully made them all and then can shoot the eight-ball to win.

Like rack pool? The two most common billiard frames are the diamond frame used in nine ball pool and the full triangle frame used in eight ball pool. The nine ball pool is set up with the one ball at the top and the nine ball in the middle. Eight-ball pool is arranged with the eight-ball in the center and the other balls randomly with a stripe and solid at each of the back two corner positions.

Important setup and delivery information

Tables in Stock – Please allow 5-7 days for delivery and installation in tri-state area. (Michigan, Indiana, Ohio).

Questions? Call us at 1-877-314-2837 and let us guide you through the purchase of your new Diamond Pro-Am pool table.

Pro-Am One Piece 1″ slate tables are designed to be shipped and installed in GROUND FLOOR rooms with a maximum of 2 steps to reach ground floor. Tables shipped to areas with more than 2 steps may require a special order of a Diamond Pro-Am 3 piece slate table.

If you have questions about availability in your region, shipping and setup details, or questions before purchasing, please call our toll-free number at 1-877-314-2837 or 517-279-7585 to speak with our Diamond Pool Table Specialist.

1. slate

All Diamond Pro-Ams come with 1″ 1-piece slate (3-piece slate is available for upstairs or downstairs installations.)

2. Professional cloth

All Pro-Ams are covered in Simonis Cloth, the choice of pro players from around the world.

3. RAILS

PRC Rails are burn and dent resistant. Phenolic resin pressed into the material gives the wood its durability and shine.

4. CUSHION

Tour-spec K-55 profile top-of-the-line rail dampers provide quick and precise response when bouncing off a rail. An additional ¼-inch top rail support wood was designed between the pad and the spring strip channel to provide consistent rail speed throughout.

5. BAGS

Prior art designed pockets are manufactured to be relatively flush with the rail with fewer pockets protruding above the rail. With a smoother transition from pocket to rail, pocket shots are similar to simply shooting from the rail.

6. WEDGE LEVELING SYSTEM

The Diamond Billiards 22 Wedge leveling system is built directly into the slate bed. This innovative wedge system allows the slate to be leveled by raising and adjusting 22 key points around the pool table without ever having to remove the track system. Exclusive to Diamond Billiards!

7. BALL RETURN

Extremely quiet and efficient ball return. Bagged balls are collected in the center of the table and then gravity fed to the back of the table. Access doors allow access to the ball return for effortless foreign object removal.

8. FEET

The leveling block is built right into the Pro-Am’s leg. By turning the ¾ inch nut, each leg can be effortlessly raised or lowered for precise leveling.

The PRO-AM is superior to other tables on the market in terms of construction, quality and materials, but most importantly its playability is second to none. Demanded by the most demanding professional players today, the Diamond Pro-Am quality of play has quickly gained the respect of not only professional players, but also amateur and casual players around the world and has quickly become the most sought-after pool table on the market today.

Room size requirements

are available for specific wood species, stains, fabric colors as well as many other modifications of the Diamond Pro Am tables. Please allow approximately 3 months manufacturing time for all custom orders. For more information on custom ordered Diamond pool tables, please call us directly at our toll free number: 1-877-314-283794″ X 54″ X 32″

What are the standard sizes and dimensions of pool tables and how big is the space for each?

Standard size pool tables, along with the dimensions of the playing surface (measured between the noses of the cushions):

12ft (snooker): 140″ (356.9cm) x 70″ (177.8cm)

(Snooker): 140″ (356.9 cm) x 70″ (177.8 cm) 10 ft (Oversized): 112″ (284.5 cm) x 56″ (142.2 cm)

(oversized): 284.5 cm (112″) x 142.2 cm (56″)

(Standard Regulatory Sizing Chart): 100″ (254 cm) x 50″ (127 cm) 8-Foot+ (Pro 8): 92″ (233.7 cm) x 46″ (116.8 cm)

(per 8): 92″ (233.7cm) x 46″ (116.8cm) 8-foot (typical home table): 88″ (223.5cm) x 44″ (111.8cm)

(typical home table): 88″ (223.5cm) x 44″ (111.8cm) 7ft + (large “barbox”): 78-82″ (198.1-208.3cm) x 39-41 ″ (99.1-104.1cm)

+ (large “barbox”): 78-82″ (198.1-208.3cm) x 39-41″ (99.1-104.1cm) 7-ft (“barbox”): 74-78″ (188-198.1cm) x 37-39″ (94-99.1cm)

(“Barbox”): 74-78″ (188-198.1 cm) x 37-39″ (94-99.1 cm) 6-foot (“Small Barbox”): 70-74″ (177.8- 188cm) x 35-37″ (88.9-94cm)

The distance between the diamonds is obtained by dividing the length of the playing surface by 8 or the width by 4.

See the data table below for recommended room sizes.

For more information see: Wikipedia pool table dimensions resource page.

from RSB FAQ:

The minimum space for a table is the playing surface plus the length of a cue (58″) plus about 6 inches for the backswing, more for comfort, on each side. Which gives:

play table

Room size area

(feet, inches) room size

(meters) 8′ 44″ x 88″ 14’4″ x 18′ 4.37m x 5.49m 8+’ 46″ x 92″ 14’6″ x 18’4″ 4.42m x 5.59m 9′ 50″ x 100″ 14′ 10″ x19′ 4.52m x 5.79m 12′ (Snooker) 70″ x 140.5″ 16’6″ x 22’5″ 5.03m x 6.83m

“Seven-foot” tables vary in size. Work down from the 8 foot dimensions. “8+” is an “oversized” 8-foot table. If your room doesn’t meet these minimum size requirements, many billiard dealers suggest that you can still set up a table and use short cues (52″ or 48″). Many people have found that they are unhappy having to resort to shorter cues and should have either gotten a smaller table or no table at all. Of course, others have a different opinion – they are happy about every table. In the end, only you will know whether you are satisfied with the room dimensions and need brief information. Before you spend $2000 on a table that has you smashing the walls in frustration, try the following:

(1) Find an indulgent pool hall when it’s not full.

(2) Measure your space (home) carefully, including the distance from the table to any walls that require a special notice

(3) With a piece or pieces of plywood or similar and a quick hint, go into the pool hall and set up the “walls” to replicate the walls of your house. Play for several hours and use the short hint when needed. Between two tables you can get by with about the length of a cue, the limit does not result from the cue, but from the fact that the player can go into his position between the tables. Deluxe rooms really need more space on all sides to be able to move possible passers-by without colliding with the players.

from realkingcobra (on AZB):

A 4 1/2 x 9 foot pool table is measured end of rail to end of rail.

4 1/2 feet = 54″

9ft = 108″

Take the playing surface of a 9 foot pool table it is 50″x100″ now add the 2″ fabric on the cushions on the side rails to the playing surface what you get is 2″ cushion/fabric on the left side rail , plus 2″ of fabric/cushion on right side rail, plus 50″ of playing surface side-to-side. Now add that together and you have 2″+2″+50″ = 54″, which is 4 1/2 feet.

Now if you double that measurement you would add 4 side rails at 2″ each…remember you are DOUBLING the width, that is, instead of just adding 2 rails you would add the width of 4 rails, at 2″ each, plus you would double the width of the table side-to-side with 50″ twice, so that’s 100″…now you add…2″+2″+2″+2″+50″+50″= 108″, which is 9 feet corresponds EXCEPT…we all know that all pool tables only have 2 end rails and NOT 4 so to keep the playing surface twice as long as it is wide…you need to subtract 2 of those 4 rails as ghost rails…meaning they aren’t really on the Billiard table are available. So if you subtract the 4″ of the ghost rails from the 9 feet…108″ that you leave with 104″, you now subtract the 4″ of fabric/cushions that ARE on the table and you ended up getting 100″…so So you have a 50″x100″ playing surface from a 4 1/2 x 9 pool table.

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