Rescue Orchids For Sale? Top Answer Update

The reason orchids die off is due to overwatering, slow-draining soil and a lack of oxygen around the roots. Orchids need the top inch of growing medium to dry out between waterings. In consistently moist soil, orchids will develop root rot with yellowing and dying leaves.

Orchids are epiphytes that require more oxygen around their roots than most plants, as well as bright, indirect light, a temperature range of between 12°C and 23°C, relatively humid conditions with no drafts, and should only be watered when the top inch of the potting medium is dry, but the rest of the medium should not dry out completely.

Orchids often die from being planted in a substrate that contains too much moisture, causing the roots to rot and the leaves to yellow and die.

Orchids should only be potted in pine bark or special orchid soil mixtures and not in moss or ordinary potting soil.

To revive dying orchids it is important to create their optimal conditions by mimicking some of the conditions in their natural environment and pruning back dying roots.

Reasons why orchids die: Symptoms: overwatering, soil that retains too much moisture, pots without good drainage. Leaves and stems turn yellow and droop. The roots often turn brown, black, and mushy with a bad odor. Sunburn (orchids need indirect light, not full sun) Yellow or brown scorched leaves that eventually fall off. Don’t water often enough or too little. Drooping orchid leaves with a wrinkled appearance. The leaves turn yellow with severe drying out. The roots become thin, white and papery. Too much fertilizer can burn roots. Orchids need special orchid fertilizer. Normal fertilizer is too strong. Roots can turn brown or black, leaves can become limp and sometimes yellow. Too much fertilizer can prevent orchids from blooming. The orchid is stressed by several factors such as cold or hot temperatures, low humidity. Low light or full sun can both cause the buds to fall off and the orchid to die. Buds fall off, yellow or brown leaves wither, roots die.

Read on to learn the cause of your dying orchid and how to revive it…

Orchid leaves and stems wilt, turn yellow (overwatering)

Orchid leaves yellow from overwatering.

symptoms . Leaves and stems of the orchid wither, turn yellow and die. Roots can appear yellow, brown, or black with a mushy texture and bad odor, eventually turning gray and papery.

. Leaves and stems of the orchid wither, turn yellow and die. Roots can appear yellow, brown, or black with a mushy texture and bad odor, eventually turning gray and papery. Causes. Stem rot or root rot caused by overhead watering, over watering, potting soil that retains too much moisture or is too compact for growing orchids (orchids need aerated soil). Cold temperatures below 12°C also cause orchids to turn yellow.

Most types of houseplant orchids are either epiphytes (meaning they are specially adapted to growing on trees, and the roots absorb water vapor from the air around them rather than absorbing water from the soil) or they grow in loose, gritty soil Aggregates on the ground with a great deal of rapid drainage so their roots don’t sit in stagnant water or even moist soil.

So to avoid your orchid yellowing, drooping and dying, and to successfully growing orchids, it is important to replicate some of the conditions of their natural environment, with an emphasis on good drainage, proper watering and bright, indirect lighting conditions.

The reason orchids turn yellow is due to overwatering and slow-draining soil. Orchids require the soil to dry out between waterings. If the soil is constantly wet, the leaves and stems of the orchid will yellow, droop and the orchid will die.

Yellow orchid leaves indicate that the roots are unable to transport water or nutrients around the orchid due to root rot, or excessive moisture in the soil has shut out oxygen needed for root respiration to allow the roots to function properly .

Overwatered orchid roots can appear yellow, brown, or black and have a mushy texture and often have a bad odor. Eventually, due to root rot, the roots die and appear gray, thin, and papery. This is in contrast to healthy orchid roots, which are green or light gray and firm to the touch.

Healthy orchid roots are green (or light grey) and plump to the touch.

Typically, orchids should be watered about every 7 days in spring and summer and every 10-14 days in fall and winter to meet watering needs but also to avoid root rot.

(Read my article to learn how often orchids need to be watered at different times of the year and in different climates).

To avoid yellow orchid leaves it is important to plant orchids in the appropriate pine bark substrate as ordinary potting soil or even peat moss will retain too much moisture for orchids to tolerate and lack the aerated, porous structure to allow for Oxygen can reach the orchid roots You can breathe and function properly.

Even if you water infrequently, orchid leaves and stems can still turn yellow if placed in potting soil that retains too much moisture, or if the particle size of the soil is too small, resulting in a lack of oxygen around the roots.

It’s also worth noting that orchids should ideally be repotted with a new potting medium every 2 or 3 years.

This is because orchids need plenty of oxygen around the roots for efficient root respiration.

As the potting soil begins to break down (to a compost-like consistency) over about 2 years, the size of the pores and the amount of air around the roots decreases, causing the roots to suffocate and the orchid to turn yellow and die.

Orchids can also turn yellow if planted in pots without drainage holes in the bottom or because saucers and trays under the pots will cause water to pool around the bottom of the pot, resulting in a constantly wet pitting mix around the roots, causing the Risk increases root rot and other fungal diseases that cause orchid leaves to turn yellow.

Good drainage is essential for growing orchids, so always plant them in pots with holes in the bottom that allow water to drain freely after watering.

(Read my article on choosing the best pots for growing orchids for more tips).

It should be noted that even if orchids have yellow leaves and some roots appear to be rotting, the orchid can still revive if there are at least some roots that are relatively healthy…

Crown rot causing yellow leaves and stems

It should also be noted that it is best to water orchids at ground level (or in a basin) and not overhead watering on the leaves and stems

Orchid leaves can form a funnel shape, causing water to pool on the crown of the plant (rather than draining into the soil), which can lead to crown rot due to standing water.

Crown rot can cause the orchid’s leaves and stem to turn yellow and eventually brown or black, causing the orchid to die.

How to revive orchids with wilted, yellow leaves and stems from overwatering

The first step is to water the orchids less and let the soil dry out. As a general rule orchids should be watered once every 7 days but you should always wait until the top inch of the potting medium is dry to the touch before watering again, which may vary depending on your climate, the type of potting medium and the size of the pot . (Read my article on watering orchids for more details).

. As a general rule orchids should be watered once every 7 days but you should always wait until the top inch of the potting medium is dry to the touch before watering again, which may vary depending on your climate, the type of potting medium and the size of the pot . (Read my article for more details). Make sure your orchid is planted with potting soil that has been specially formulated for growing orchids. Pine bark based mix works best due to its aerated structure and good drainage that mimics the soil conditions of orchids natural environment. If your orchid is planted in regular potting soil or moss it will retain too much moisture around the orchid’s roots, affecting the orchid’s ability to absorb nutrients and water, causing the leaves to yellow and the plant to die, so repot Plant your orchid in a special orchid soil mix made from pine bark (rather than moss) to prevent root rot.

. Pine bark based mix works best due to its aerated structure and good drainage that mimics the soil conditions of orchids natural environment. If your orchid is planted in regular potting soil or moss it will retain too much moisture around the orchid’s roots, affecting the orchid’s ability to absorb nutrients and water, causing the leaves to yellow and the plant to die, so repot Plant your orchid in a special orchid soil mix made from pine bark (rather than moss) to prevent root rot. Examine the roots for signs of disease. Healthy orchid roots will typically appear green to light gray depending on how long they have been watered and will typically be plump and firm to the touch. If your orchid roots are mushy, brown or black and often have a bad odor, this indicates disease or stress from lack of oxygen around the roots and you should trim back the unhealthy roots.

Depending on how long they’ve been poured, they usually feel plump and firm. If your orchid roots are mushy, brown or black and often have a bad odor, this indicates disease or stress from lack of oxygen around the roots and you should trim back the unhealthy roots. Cut back any diseased looking unhealthy roots to healthy growth. Use sterile pruning shears or scissors and trim back any roots that appear brown, black, or mushy as these roots can no longer carry water or nutrients and your orchid may continue to decline if not removed. Wipe the blades of your pruning shears with alcohol gel or sanitizer between each cut to prevent potential fungal infections from spreading to otherwise healthy tissue. Prune diseased roots back to healthy growth or to the root if necessary.

. Use sterile pruning shears or scissors and trim back any roots that appear brown, black, or mushy as these roots can no longer carry water or nutrients and your orchid may continue to decline if not removed. Wipe the blades of your pruning shears with alcohol gel or sanitizer between each cut to prevent potential fungal infections from spreading to otherwise healthy tissue. Prune diseased roots back to healthy growth or to the root if necessary. If there are still some healthy, live, green (or light grey) roots left, the orchid can still be revived. i.e. Cutting off the diseased or rotten roots can seem quite drastic, but orchids are more resilient than their assumed reputation when it comes to reviving and regrowing.

i.e. Cutting off the diseased or rotten roots can seem quite drastic, but orchids are more resilient than their assumed reputation when it comes to reviving and regrowing. If the stems are yellow, trim them back to healthy growth, even if this means trimming the stem back to the base of the orchid. This will help prevent the spread of disease, and if the stalk is yellow, it will stop working. Pruning back will help stimulate new stem growth.

. This will help prevent the spread of disease, and if the stalk is yellow, it will stop working. Pruning back will help stimulate new stem growth. Yellow leaves often die off, but don’t force off yellow leaves if they’re still attached. Stripping the leaves can damage the orchid, but they will likely turn brown and eventually fall off before new leaves can emerge.

. Stripping the leaves can damage the orchid, but they will likely turn brown and eventually fall off before new leaves can emerge. Transplant your orchid into a new suitable potting medium such as pine bark or a specially formulated orchid mix. Pine bark substrates have the perfect aerated structure that facilitates root respiration and good drainage to allow your orchid to revive. Don’t use old potting soil medium as it can harbor fungal pathogens that cause disease.

. Pine bark substrates have the perfect aerated structure that facilitates root respiration and good drainage to allow your orchid to revive. Don’t use old potting soil medium as it can harbor fungal pathogens that cause disease. After repotting, give the orchid a good soak to mitigate the transplant shock and keep the orchid in an area with bright, indirect sun, preferably in relatively cool (not cold) temperatures, for about a week. The orchid can experience some shock after removing the roots, so it’s important to keep any stress to a minimum. High temperatures and direct sunlight increase orchids’ moisture requirements at a time when the number of roots absorbing moisture has been reduced to protect the plant.

, preferably in relatively cool (not cold) temperatures for a week or so. The orchid can experience some shock after removing the roots, so it’s important to keep any stress to a minimum. High temperatures and direct sunlight increase orchids’ moisture requirements at a time when the number of roots absorbing moisture has been reduced to protect the plant. Keep orchid in a temperature range of 12°C (55°F) at night and a maximum daytime temperature of 23°C (75°F) with indirect light and water when the top inch of the potting medium is dry (usually about every 7 days or so) with a good bath.

55°F (12°C) at night and a maximum daytime temperature of 75°F (23°C), in indirect light and water when the top inch of potting medium is dry (usually about every 7 days or so). a good bath. Mist the leaves with water every 2 or 3 days to maintain a humid microclimate that mimics the humid conditions of orchids’ natural habitat. This also helps reduce transpiration (water loss) from the leaves, which is important for reviving the orchid while it establishes new roots.

As long as there are some healthy green (or light gray) roots that feel firm and plump, there’s a chance the orchid can be saved.

Orchids are unusual in that the roots can even perform photosynthesis (usually solely the function of leaves for most plants), allowing the orchid to produce energy and regrow even when the leaves are yellow and dying.

Clear plastic pots (rather than decorative ones) can improve the chances of your orchid reviving as they allow light to reach the roots for photosynthesis when there are no functioning, healthy leaves.

The time it takes to revive will depend on how badly the orchid was affected and how many roots have been removed, but as long as you create the right conditions for the orchid you should eventually see some new leaves forming at the base of the Plant and new roots emerging over the next few weeks.

Check out this helpful YouTube video for a visual guide if you’re unsure about anything:

Orchid leaves yellow or brown due to sunburn

symptoms . Leaves of the orchid turn yellow or brown with a burnt appearance. Leaves and flowers can also fall off due to stress.

. Leaves of the orchid turn yellow or brown with a burnt appearance. Leaves and flowers can also fall off due to stress. Causes. Orchids require filtered light or bright, indirect light and can scorch in full sun or intense sunshine.

In their natural environment, most orchids grow as epiphytes (i.e. they grow on top of other trees) so they are naturally adapted to growing in shade without full sun but still in relatively bright light.

As such, orchid foliage tends to be sensitive to the effects of direct sunlight, so you should always place orchids in an area with bright, indirect light or perhaps some filtered morning light, rather full sun to replicate the conditions of their natural environment.

If the orchid is exposed to too much sun, the leaves may scorch and turn yellow or brown, depending on the severity of the sunburn.

Too much intense light can also contribute to the orchid drying out too quickly from both the foliage and the potting medium, causing the symptoms of drought stress.

Often the leaves turn yellow, die and fall off. Unfortunately, individual sunburned leaves usually cannot be saved, but the orchid can still be revived by growing new leaves.

How to revive orchids with sunburned yellow leaves

Place your orchid in an area with bright, indirect light to reduce stress on the plant and prevent further damage. Orchids are adapted to shade from the canopy, so it’s important to mimic these conditions when locating your orchids.

to reduce stress on the plant and prevent further damage. Orchids are adapted to shade from the canopy, so it’s important to mimic these conditions when locating your orchids. Allow severely damaged leaves to dry up and fall off on their own. Sunburned leaves will eventually dry out and die, but removing them too early can damage the plant.

. Sunburned leaves will eventually dry out and die, but removing them too early can damage the plant. Ideally, repot your orchid in a clear plastic pot. Orchids are common in the plant world as their roots are capable of photosynthesis and provide energy for the plant. This is obviously not their primary function, but placing orchids in clear pots so the roots have access to light is key to helping the orchid revive and produce new leaves.

. Orchids are common in the plant world as their roots are capable of photosynthesis and provide energy for the plant. This is obviously not their primary function, but placing orchids in clear pots so the roots have access to light is key to helping the orchid revive and produce new leaves. The orchid should eventually begin to produce new leaves (which are often very small) and with proper care (watering appropriately and making sure the orchids are in the right temperature range) the orchid can begin to revive.

Orchids can take a long time to revive when their leaves are burned, as the leaves often fall off (reducing the orchid’s ability to produce energy) and it takes a while for the orchid to grow new leaves. However, with patience, orchids can eventually revive and bloom again.

Orchids Dying of Drought (Drop Leaves)

Roots turn white from severe drying.

symptoms . Roots appear shriveled, white and die. The leaves droop, lose their shape, and feel limp rather than tight. Leaves may also turn yellow and flowers may drop due to drought stress. The stem of the orchid can also turn brown and die.

. Roots appear shriveled, white and die. The leaves droop, lose their shape, and feel limp rather than tight. Leaves may also turn yellow and flowers may drop due to drought stress. The stem of the orchid can also turn brown and die. Causes. Not watering orchids often enough, under watering, too much heat, low humidity and too much sun.

Orchids are generally at a higher risk of becoming overwatered, as they prefer good drainage and aerated, porous substrates.

However, orchids can still experience drought stress if they are under-watered, under-watered, or if they are in a hot, low-humidity climate, which robs moisture from the leaves and the potting soil dries too quickly for the roots to absorb moisture could.

Typically, orchids need a thorough watering once every 7-14 days (depending on climate) to allow excess water to drain out of the drainage holes in the base to ensure water reaches the roots.

If the orchid is watered too lightly, only the top inch or so of the medium will be wet and the roots will not be able to access the water they need.

The first sign of a drought stressed orchid is when the leaves begin to droop. Severe drought stress can even cause leaves to turn yellow and roots to shrivel, become white, thin, papery, and die.

If some of the roots shrivel and die, the orchid can no longer properly transport water and nutrients throughout the plant, causing the leaves to turn yellow and the leaves and flowers may fall off.

However, if some roots are still alive, correcting watering practices and ensuring your orchid is between a temperature of 12°C (55°F) and 23°C (75°F) can help the orchid recover from the drought. and not full sun to relieve stress while the orchid recovers.

How to revive a drooping orchid

Place the orchid in a basin of water for 10 minutes, making sure the roots are completely covered. While orchids don’t need to be watered as often as some houseplants, they grow best when the potting medium is well soaked with each watering. Placing a drought-stressed orchid in a basin of water allows much-needed moisture to reach the roots and ensure your potting soil is evenly moist. After 10 minutes, remove the orchid from the water and allow excess water to drain freely from the drainage holes.

. While orchids don’t need to be watered as often as some houseplants, they grow best when the potting medium is well soaked with each watering. Placing a drought-stressed orchid in a basin of water allows much-needed moisture to reach the roots and ensure your potting soil is evenly moist. After 10 minutes, remove the orchid from the water and allow excess water to drain freely from the drainage holes. Always let the orchid potting soil soak well. While it is not necessary to water your orchid in a basin every time, it is important that you water the orchids liberally so that the water drips off the bottom of the pot. This will ensure that the potting medium is evenly moist and that the orchid roots can absorb the water they need to replenish the water reserves stored in the orchid roots (so they feel plump and not shriveled).

. While it is not necessary to water your orchid in a basin every time, it is important that you water the orchids liberally so that the water drips off the bottom of the pot. This will ensure that the potting medium is evenly moist and that the orchid roots can absorb the water they need to replenish the water reserves stored in the orchid roots (so they feel plump and not shriveled). Increase the frequency with which you water your orchid (if necessary). Orchids need less watering than most houseplants, but the potting soil shouldn’t dry out completely between waterings. Typically, orchids should be watered every 7 days during the spring and summer and every 14 days during the fall and winter, although this will vary depending on climate and conditions.

. Orchids need less watering than most houseplants, but the potting soil shouldn’t dry out completely between waterings. Typically, orchids should be watered every 7 days during the spring and summer and every 14 days during the fall and winter, although this will vary depending on climate and conditions. To determine when to water your orchid in your climate, feel the potting medium with your finger to detect moisture. The top inches of the potting medium should dry out between waterings to meet the orchid’s water needs and prevent root rot. If the top inch feels damp, delay watering for a day or so. When the top inches feel dry, this is the perfect time to water your orchid with a generous amount of soaking water.

In your climate, feel the potting soil with your finger to detect moisture. The top inches of the potting medium should dry out between waterings to meet the orchid’s water needs and prevent root rot. If the top inch feels damp, delay watering for a day or so. When the top inches feel dry, this is the perfect time to water your orchid with a generous amount of soaking water. Spray and root the leaves of the orchid regularly. Mist the orchid’s leaves and roots to reduce transpiration (water loss) from the leaves while it’s drought-stressed. Humidity indoors is generally much lower than in the orchids’ natural environment. Therefore, misting or using a humidifier is the best course of action to prevent the leaves from drooping. Mist the leaves and roots every other day to create a humid microclimate that will help revitalize the drooping orchid.

. Mist the orchid’s leaves and roots to reduce transpiration (water loss) from the leaves while it’s drought-stressed. Humidity indoors is generally much lower than in the orchids’ natural environment. Therefore, misting or using a humidifier is the best course of action to prevent the leaves from drooping. Mist the leaves and roots every other day to create a humid microclimate that will help revitalize the drooping orchid. Make sure orchids are in an area with bright, indirect light and not in full sun. While trying to revive a drought-stressed orchid, keep it out of direct or filtered sunlight, as this can make the leaves and roots dry out too quickly. Most orchid species grow in forests, so they prefer direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves.

rather than full sunlight. While trying to revive a drought-stressed orchid, keep it out of direct or filtered sunlight, as this can make the leaves and roots dry out too quickly. Most orchid species grow in forests, so they prefer direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves. Bewahren Sie Orchideen in einem Temperaturbereich von 55 °F bis 80 °F auf, da hohe Temperaturen Trockenstress verschlimmern. Die kühleren Temperaturen bieten optimale Bedingungen für die Orchidee, um sich stressfrei von den Trockenbedingungen zu erholen.

Es kann auch helfen, tote weiße, papierartige Wurzeln wegzuschneiden, da diese Wurzeln nicht wiederbeleben, und das Zurückschneiden kann helfen, das Wachstum neuer gesunder Wurzeln zu stimulieren. Wenn die Stängel (oder Blütenstände) braun werden, schneiden Sie sie mit einer Schere oder Gartenschere bis zum Ansatz zurück, um neues Wachstum anzuregen.

Durch beständiges Gießen, Besprühen der Blätter für mehr Feuchtigkeit und Platzieren der Orchidee in helles, indirektes Licht bei der richtigen Temperatur sollte die Orchidee in den nächsten Wochen Anzeichen einer Erholung zeigen und schließlich wieder blühen können.

Zu viel Dünger kann Orchideenwurzeln verbrennen

Symptome . Blätter werden schlaff, die Orchidee zeigt weniger oder keine Blüten und die Wurzeln können braun oder schwarz werden. Manchmal können die Blätter gelb werden.

. Blätter werden schlaff, die Orchidee zeigt weniger oder keine Blüten und die Wurzeln können braun oder schwarz werden. Manchmal können die Blätter gelb werden. Causes. Gewöhnlicher Zimmerpflanzendünger ist zu stark für Orchideen. Dünger zu oft oder in zu hoher Konzentration ausbringen. Die Ansammlung von Salzen aus Düngemitteln kann verhindern, dass die Orchideenwurzeln Wasser aufnehmen, wodurch die Blätter gelb werden.

Orchideen sind daran angepasst, mit ihren Wurzeln relativ exponiert auf anderen Bäumen oder in lockerem Boden zu wachsen und benötigen daher nicht unbedingt viel Dünger.

Etwas Düngung ist jedoch notwendig, um ein gesundes Wachstum zu unterstützen und kann die Blüte fördern, aber es ist wichtig, dass Sie einen Dünger verwenden, der speziell für Orchideen geeignet ist.

Ein speziell formulierter Orchideendünger enthält alle Nährstoffe, die die Orchidee in der richtigen Konzentration benötigt, um ein gesundes Wachstum zu unterstützen und die Blüte zu fördern.

Orchideendünger sorgt für das richtige Nährstoffgleichgewicht in der richtigen Konzentration.

Zu viel Dünger kann dazu führen, dass die Blätter der Orchidee schlaff werden und keine Blüten zeigen. Die Wurzeln können auch brennen, was dazu führen kann, dass die Wurzeln nicht richtig funktionieren und die Orchidee abstirbt.

Wie man eine Orchidee mit verbrannten Wurzeln wiederbelebt

Der erste Schritt besteht darin, den Einsatz von Dünger zu reduzieren und die Orchideen in ein Becken zu stellen und die Orchideenwurzeln etwa 10 Minuten lang unter dem Wasserhahn zu waschen. Diese gründliche Bewässerung hilft, einige der Salze aufzulösen, die sich nach der Verwendung von zu viel Dünger im Boden ansammeln können. Lassen Sie das Wasser aus den Abflusslöchern abfließen und lassen Sie die obersten Zentimeter des Blumenerdemediums trocknen.

Nachdem Sie die überschüssigen Salze unter fließendem Wasser aufgelöst haben und die obersten Zentimeter des Substrats trocken sind, nehmen Sie die Orchidee aus ihren Töpfen und inspizieren Sie alle Wurzeln. Die Orchideenwurzeln sollten grün oder hellgrau sein und sich prall und fest anfühlen, wenn sie gesund sind.

Wenn die Wurzeln braun oder schwarz erscheinen, können Sie diese Wurzeln bis zur Basis der Pflanze zurückschneiden, da diese Wurzeln nicht mehr richtig funktionieren können.

Topfen Sie Ihre Orchidee idealerweise in ein neues Blumenerde aus Kiefernrinde oder spezielle Orchideenerde-Mischungen um (vermeiden Sie Torfmoos, da es zu viel Feuchtigkeit speichert), da eine neue Blumenerde die Auswirkungen von zu viel Dünger mildert.

Alle Blätter, die gelb geworden sind, werden wahrscheinlich braun absterben und von der Pflanze abfallen. Versuchen Sie nicht, diese Blätter mit Gewalt zu entfernen, da dies die Orchidee beschädigen kann.

Kümmere dich gut um deine Orchidee und sie sollte in den nächsten Monaten Anzeichen einer Wiederbelebung zeigen, wenn neue Blätter auftauchen oder neue Wurzeln die alten beschädigten Wurzeln ersetzen.

Ich muss betonen, wie wichtig es ist, bei der Fütterung von Orchideen einen speziell formulierten Orchideendünger (erhältlich in Gartencentern und bei Amazon) zu verwenden.

Die natürlichen Wachstumsbedingungen von Orchideen sind ziemlich ungewöhnlich (sie wachsen gerne auf Bäumen und beziehen Nährstoffe oft aus Regenwasser oder Wasserdampf um sie herum) und ihre Wurzeln sind viel zu empfindlich für gewöhnlichen Dünger.

Spezieller Orchideendünger, der in der richtigen Häufigkeit und in der richtigen Menge angewendet wird, sollte ein gesundes Orchideenwachstum unterstützen und die Blüte fördern. Befolgen Sie daher immer die Anweisungen des Herstellers.

Orchideenblüten und Blütenknospen fallen ab

Symptome . Orchideenblüten oder Blütenknospen fallen plötzlich ab.

. Orchideenblüten oder Blütenknospen fallen plötzlich ab. Causes. Die Orchidee wird durch mehrere Faktoren wie Temperatur- oder Feuchtigkeitsunterschiede gestresst. Schwaches Licht oder volle Sonne können beide dazu führen, dass die Knospen abfallen. Stress durch Austrocknung oder Überwässerung.

Wenn Orchideenblüten oder Blütenknospen abfallen, ist dies normalerweise ein Hinweis darauf, dass die Umgebung, in der die Orchidee wächst, den Bedingungen widerspricht, an die Orchideen angepasst sind.

Orchideenblüten fallen plötzlich ab, wenn es einen signifikanten Temperatur- oder Feuchtigkeitsunterschied gibt. Temperaturen unter 12°C (55°F) oder über 23°C (75°F) verursachen Stress und sind meistens der Grund dafür, dass Blüten und Knospen von Ihrer Orchidee abfallen.

Orchideen bevorzugen eine relativ feuchte Umgebung, sodass die Orchidee bei Schwankungen der Luftfeuchtigkeit aufgrund von Stress Blüten verlieren kann. Schwankungen der Luftfeuchtigkeit können durch Raumheizung, Zugluft und Klimaanlage verursacht werden.

Orchideen zu wenig oder zu wenig zu gießen, führt auch als Überlebensstrategie zur Ressourcenschonung zum Abwurf von Blüten und Knospen.

Orchideen reagieren sehr empfindlich auf Überwässerung, was eine Reihe von Symptomen verursachen kann, darunter das Abfallen von Blüten und Knospen und das Absterben der Blätter.

Wie man Orchideen mit abfallenden Blumen wiederbelebt

Once the flowers or flower buds have fallen off there is not much you can do other then to correct the environmental stress that caused the flowers to drop off in the first place.

Ensure that the orchid is in a room with a temperature between 55°F (12°C) and 75°F (23°C) . Orchids are relatively sensitive to fluctuations of temperature even within their preferred temperature range so try to keep the temperature relatively consistent. Keep your orchid away from draughts from open windows, out of a direct current from air conditioning and away from radiators or sources of heat.

. Orchids are relatively sensitive to fluctuations of temperature even within their preferred temperature range so try to keep the temperature relatively consistent. Keep your orchid away from draughts from open windows, out of a direct current from air conditioning and away from radiators or sources of heat. The air in houses tends to be much lower in humidity compared to the orchids native environment . Increase the humidity by misting the leaves to create a humid micro-climate that replicates the conditions of the orchids native environment. Spray your orchids once every 2 days if you are in a climate of low humidity. Placing orchids in bathrooms or kitchens can also help as they tend to be the most humid areas of houses.

. Increase the humidity by misting the leaves to create a humid micro-climate that replicates the conditions of the orchids native environment. Spray your orchids once every 2 days if you are in a climate of low humidity. Placing orchids in bathrooms or kitchens can also help as they tend to be the most humid areas of houses. Bright, indirect light helps to promote flowering so try to locate your orchid somewhere in the home where it is bright but not in direct sun. if the orchid is in a relatively dark room then the plant does not have enough energy to produce flowers to the same extent.

so try to locate your orchid somewhere in the home where it is bright but not in direct sun. if the orchid is in a relatively dark room then the plant does not have enough energy to produce flowers to the same extent. Orchids should be watered less often then most house plants but should not be left to dry out completely . The top inch of the potting medium should be allowed to dry between bouts of watering, which ensures the orchid has sufficient water and avoids the dangers of overwatering such as root rot.

. The top inch of the potting medium should be allowed to dry between bouts of watering, which ensures the orchid has sufficient water and avoids the dangers of overwatering such as root rot. Apply a special orchid fertilizer to the orchids following the manufacturers instructions to ensure that the orchid has all the nutrient at the right concentration to promote flowering. Do not apply ordinary houseplant fertilizer as this can kill the orchid.

With the right conditions orchids should retain their flowers and flower buds and bloom again, usually in the Spring Fall or Winter.

(Read my article, why are my orchid flowers and flower buds falling off).

Orchid Dying After Repotting

If your orchid is dying after repotting this could be as a result of:

Transplant shock . Transplanting orchids can cause stress, particularly if their roots are damaged or they are moved from one location to another with a contrast in light, temperature or airflow. Always ensure your orchid is in the correct temperature range of between 55°F (12°C) and 75°F (23°C) in bright indirect light (rather then too mush shade or full sun) and keep orchids away from draughts and air currents after repotting.

. Transplanting orchids can cause stress, particularly if their roots are damaged or they are moved from one location to another with a contrast in light, temperature or airflow. Always ensure your orchid is in the correct temperature range of between 55°F (12°C) and 75°F (23°C) in bright indirect light (rather then too mush shade or full sun) and keep orchids away from draughts and air currents after repotting. Orchid transplanting into a moisture retaining potting medium . Orchids require aerated potting mediums and grow best in pine bark or specially formulated orchid potting mixes. Sphagnum moss often retains too much moisture for orchids to tolerate and the orchid dies back of root root (yellow leaves, wilting appearance , and roots that are turning brow, or black with a mushy texture). Ordinary potting soil retains too much moisture and has a structure that does not allow enough oxygen around the roots for orchids to live.

. Orchids require aerated potting mediums and grow best in pine bark or specially formulated orchid potting mixes. Sphagnum moss often retains too much moisture for orchids to tolerate and the orchid dies back of root root (yellow leaves, , and roots that are turning brow, or black with a mushy texture). Ordinary potting soil retains too much moisture and has a structure that does not allow enough oxygen around the roots for orchids to live. Overwatering . Orchids are very susceptible to overwatering. Always wait for the top inch of the potting medium to dry out before watering again.

. Orchids are very susceptible to overwatering. Always wait for the top inch of the potting medium to dry out before watering again. Pots without drainage holes in the base and the use of trays and saucers. When you repot your orchid ensure that it is planted in a pot with drainage holes in the base to allow excess water to escape after watering. Decorative outer pots, saucers and trays can also cause water to pool around the roots of your orchid causing root rot. Always empty outer pots, saucers and trays after watering orchids to prevent water pooling around the roots of your orchid and causing root rot.

The central theses:

Orchids are incredibly popular houseplants. They have a reputation for being difficult to care for, but some types of orchids do well indoors without too much fuss.

With orchids becoming more common, it’s easier than ever to find beautiful varieties of orchids. You can buy some orchids for almost the same price as cut flowers. In fact, some orchids are sold as if they were disposable plants that need to be bought and replaced frequently.

But do you have to discard and replace orchids every year? How well do they continue to grow indoors and should you throw them away once they have finished flowering?

Do orchids come back every year?

Orchids are perennial plants. This means that they flower year after year and do not die after flowering like annual plants. Depending on the type of orchid, some will even flower several times a year under the right conditions.

Orchids naturally lose their flowers, but in most cases this is no reason to assume your orchids will die. After flowering, orchids generally go through a dormant period.

During this time, orchids may lose some of their luster and appear dull. Continue caring for your orchid during this period of dormancy. The orchid should bloom again at the right time.

How long can a potted orchid live?

While caring for a potted orchid can sometimes be a delicate process, orchids are quite hardy in their natural environment. In the wild, orchids can live for around 20 years, depending on the orchid species and the environment.

Potted orchids don’t have quite the same lifespan, but with proper care, it’s not common for orchids to live between 10 and 15 years. There are some reports of orchids living significantly longer.

While these outliers are uncommon, they show that orchids can survive for long periods of time indoors with good care. If you want your orchids to stay around for a while, make sure you give them the environment they need.

Focus on a few key factors to keep your orchids happy: sunlight, water, humidity, temperature, and growing medium. Different orchid species have different demands on these areas. The conditions that a particular Phalaenopsis thrives in may not work for a Brassavola.

Orchids are seasonally available in grocery and department stores throughout the year, but these orchids are not always clearly labeled. Knowing what type of orchid you have will help you provide the right environment and increase the likelihood that your orchid will live indoors for many years.

How Long Do Dendrobium Orchids Live?

The lifespan of Dendrobium orchids depends on both the Dendrobium species and the care it receives. Like other orchids, dendrobium orchids can survive anywhere from 10 to 15 years with good care indoors.

To care for this popular group of orchids, keep them in an area with temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius at night. Plan to water them about once a week and wait until the soil is almost dry before watering again.

Dendrobium orchids usually tolerate more light than other orchids. Put them in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade.

These orchids usually start blooming between February and June. After the end of flowering, the plant enters a growth phase until around September. After the growth phase, Dendrobium orchids have a resting phase. Even if there is no growth during the dormant period, the cycle begins again in spring. This cycle can go on for years.

How Long Do Phalaenopsis Orchids Live?

Phalaenopsis orchids are a popular, low-maintenance orchid. Because of this, Phalaenopsis are readily available and sometimes inexpensive. Some people buy them, throw them away after flowering, and buy new ones the following year; but you don’t have to get rid of them so quickly. Like other orchids, Phalaenopsis orchids can live 10 to 15 years as a houseplant.

Because phalaenopsis are considered more hardy than other orchids as houseplants, these plants are more likely to survive longer with less experienced orchid growers. Phalaenopsis are the perfect choice for beginners.

To increase the chances that your Phalaenopsis orchid will thrive for years, place it in an area in your home that has indirect sunlight and a constant temperature. Water them more frequently (every few days) during the summer and less frequently during the winter months. Make sure you provide enough humidity in the area.

Most Phalaenopsis orchids bloom in late winter or early spring. These orchids have flowers that usually last a long time. Phalaenopsis usually lose their flowering in summer. However, most of them can be induced to flower several times a year by manipulating the temperature of their environment.

How Long Do Brassavola Orchids Last?

Brassavola orchids are usually smaller and less conspicuous than other orchids, but they are prized for the intense scent of their flowers. Their flowers last for several weeks and it is not uncommon for these orchids to flower several times a year.

For an orchid, Brassavola is relatively easy to care for. With good care, you can expect this orchid to live for several years.

To make Brassavola happy, place them in a spot with good, indirect light. During the growing season, they should be watered several times a week. Maintain the temperature in the area between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day with a drop of about 10 degrees during the night. Because they bloom so frequently, Brassavola can also benefit from fertilizer more frequently.

Brassavola typically grows on trees or hanging from rocks in the wild, and they do well as mounted orchids. Some growers find Brassavola thrives when mounted, but that depends on whether you are comfortable caring for mounted orchids.

How long do orchids take to grow?

Most people buy orchids that are fully grown. You may not know it, but most orchids for sale are at least four years old. Growing orchids requires patience.

Orchids can be started by cuttings, by division, and by seed. Of these options, growing orchids from cuttings and by division is the easiest.

cuttings

Some orchids produce keikis (small orchid shoots that develop roots and a stem). These keikis can be removed from the mother plant and placed in their own containers. A keiki usually develops into a mature plant within two years.

Not all orchids will produce keikis, but most species of Dendrobium, Epidendrum, and Phalaenopsis orchids will produce them when conditions are right. Keikis are a clone of the mother plant and produce new plants that look just like the original plant.

division

Another method of growing new orchids is by division. The mother plant is divided when repotting. This method yields mature orchids that exactly resemble the mother plant (which makes sense since they are literally just the mother plant divided into several parts).

Sympodial orchids such as Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium and Oncidium can all be divided because they grow sideways. New stems grow side by side and fill pots faster than other orchids.

This is the easiest way to grow new orchids. Unfortunately, not all orchids can be divided.

seed

As strange as it may sound, seeds are the most difficult way to grow new orchids. It can take anywhere from 9 months to 2 years for orchid seeds to germinate. Once a seed germinates, it takes at least 2 years of nurturing to create just the right conditions for orchids to even start flowering.

It is best to leave this task to patients or professional orchid operations.

However, growing from seeds has some advantages. New hybrids are made from seeds. Other methods only produce clones of the mother plant. The process can be extremely rewarding, even if it takes a long time.

How long do orchids bloom indoors?

When you have an orchid, you want to enjoy its bloom for as long as possible. Orchids are the largest family of flowering plants, with more than 30,000 species, so there isn’t just one answer to how long indoor orchids bloom. Different types of orchids have different flower patterns.

In general, orchid flowering lasts between 6 and 10 weeks. Most orchids only flower once a year, but there are some orchids that will flower several times a year if the conditions are right. Phalaenopsis orchids in particular can usually bloom several times in the same year. Growers can manipulate the temperature to trick some Phalaenopsis orchids into believing it’s time to flower again.

With planning, it is possible to build an orchid collection that has something blooming all year round. While fall is the most common season for orchids, some varieties flower in winter, spring, or summer.

If you want to bloom at a specific time of year, look for orchid varieties that bloom at that time. With so many types of orchids, you’ll be able to find something you love.

Should I remove dead orchid flowers?

All orchid flowers eventually fade. When this happens, it’s time to remove the spent flower. Removing the dead flowers will improve the orchid’s appearance. Dying off orchid flowers isn’t always essential, but shriveled dead flowers aren’t exactly attractive.

For some orchids, removing faded flowers has additional benefits. Killing certain orchids will cause them to produce new flowers.

Of course, you can leave dead orchid flowers on your orchids until they fall off on their own. This is what happens to orchids in their natural environment, and it certainly doesn’t hurt the plants to leave things as they are.

I wouldn’t display dead orchid flowers, but if you don’t mind, then there’s no need to remove them.

Frequently asked questions about orchid care

Are you wondering how to care for orchids so that they live as long as possible? Here are a few frequently asked questions about orchid care.

FAQ: Can orchids recover from overwatering?

Overwatering can be a serious problem for orchids. Waterlogged roots have no access to oxygen and the orchid suffers.

If you notice signs of overwatering, remove orchids from the pool water. Cut off all soft and dark roots. Roots that are still green or white and firm may be able to continue growing if placed in a growing medium that properly drains excess water. Treat with a root supplement to prevent future root infections.

Some orchids will recover once their roots are allowed to dry out.

FAQ: Can orchids survive without watering?

In the wild, orchids typically live in tropical environments, but that doesn’t mean orchids will die if you don’t water them occasionally. Orchids can go two or three weeks without water. Orchids will not thrive in these conditions, but they can survive.

Of course you will have to water the orchids at some point or they will die. To keep your orchids in top condition, water them regularly.

Join our orchid care Facebook community

In our Orchid Lovers Facebook group, we are dedicated to creating a rich and engaging environment for plant lovers to come together and share tips, tricks and experiences.

If you are an orchid lover, join our Facebook community! We can’t wait to celebrate your achievements and help you troubleshoot your grooming routine.

For continued success, you can explore our other items or visit our online store for plant care products that are sure to provide your plants with rich green foliage and big, lush buds all year round.

More great orchid resources

When you have an orchid that you love, it makes sense that you would want to get more. The good news is that it is very possible to propagate an orchid to create new orchids that are a clone of the original plant. Cutting off an orchid stem works well on some orchid species.

There are many different ways to propagate orchids. Some of the methods, like sharing or taking keikis, are very simple and guarantee quite a bit of success. However, rooting an orchid stem from a cutting is a bit trickier.

The propagation method differs between the different orchid species. For orchids that cannot be divided or do not readily produce keikis, using an orchid stem may be the only option.

Read on to find out how to propagate an orchid strain and how to successfully create tiny new clones of your orchids. The process takes a while, but I encourage you to try.

How to propagate orchids

When you are ready to propagate your orchids, it is important to know what type of orchid you are working with. The type of orchid will determine which propagation method you should try.

The most common ways to propagate orchids at home are cuttings, division and keikis. Commercial growers tend to propagate using tissue culture. This is one of the fastest methods of propagating orchids, but it requires special equipment and a sterile environment. This method is not an option for people who propagate orchids at home.

Most people are familiar with the idea of ​​propagating plants from cuttings; However, not all orchids can be propagated from a cutting. Orchids that you can propagate this way include Ascocentrum, Dendrobium, Vanda and Ludisia.

If you have never propagated an orchid this way, try starting with a Dendrobium first as they take to this method best. The method of propagation from cuttings is different than what you might be used to with other plants.

For example, with my pothos plant, I can cut off the end of part of the plant, put it in a glass of water, and put it in a container for a month where it will continue to grow happily. If I tried the same thing with an orchid, nothing would happen.

Let’s talk about what you need to consider before water-rooting an orchid stem to create new orchids.

Choosing the cutting shank

Once you’ve decided to try propagation and have chosen the orchid you want to propagate, the next step is to choose a stem to cut.

First, make sure you choose a stem and not a bud. Flower spikes survive in water for a while and look pretty, but they don’t develop into a new plant.

Remember that the stem is the tube that the leaves and flowers are attached to, not the leaves and flowers themselves.

Choose a strain that is large and healthy. The stalk should be between 10 and 12 inches long with several nodes. The new orchids will (hopefully) sprout from the knots. You cut off the stem near the base of the plant when you are ready to take the cutting.

Tools for cutting cuttings

The most important part of this process is making sure your tools are sterile. Orchids are susceptible to fungal infections during the propagation process.

You can use either a sharp knife or scissors to remove the cuttings. Both will work as long as you clean your tool thoroughly before cutting.

You should also have an antifungal medication on hand. Most growers like to use cinnamon or charcoal. Both can be placed on the cut end of the stem to prevent an infection from destroying your propagation process before producing new orchids. Our propagation enhancer and rooting hormone can also be used in this process.

Rooting an orchid stem in water from a cutting

The process of rooting an orchid stem in water will probably seem different to what you expect. While the stems need moisture to form new orchid shoots, they don’t need to be constantly in water.

Instead, you wrap the stems in peat moss and then dampen the moss. That way, the stems have the moisture they need but aren’t completely surrounded by water.

Propagation of glasses or tubes

The container you use to root your orchids doesn’t make all that much of a difference. It is important that you have enough space for the stems.

Some people choose to cut the stems into smaller segments with two nodes per segment. If you do this, you will need to apply an antifungal like cinnamon or charcoal to the cut ends. For short segments you can use a jar or tube, but you can also use a saucepan as a container.

If you’re having trouble keeping your cuttings upright in their container or medium, give these easy-to-use knot holders a try! This handy propagation tool is an easy way to keep root cuttings healthy and in place while they take root, giving those roots more room to grow without the added pressure of supporting the weight of the plant. This plant knot support will also help your cuttings root faster!

Other people keep the stalk in one segment, which helps reduce the risk of fungal infection. You’ll need to cut the trunk into sections later when new plants begin to sprout from the nodes. For these longer segments, tall tubes or glasses are best. If you have a vase with mostly straight sides, it also works well for propagating orchids.

Make sure you have either a plastic bag or plastic wrap that can cover the top of your container to keep the surrounding area moist. The plastic needs to be clear and have lots of small holes that allow air to circulate. You can poke the holes yourself or buy plastic that already has them. Sometimes there are bags of fruit or veg from the supermarket that work perfectly for this purpose, so check your kitchen first.

Dietary supplement for orchid roots

If you’re like me, try to keep your new supplies for projects to a minimum. Orchid root supplements are optional for propagating orchids from cuttings, but I think it makes the process easier and increases your chances of success.

Although some orchid growers are able to easily propagate their orchids without the use of a rooting supplement, other orchid enthusiasts find that using rooting hormones makes the process more reliable.

Rooting hormone pastes are usually marketed as keiki pastes or orchid cloning pastes.

If you’ve decided to use a rooting hormone to help propagate, here’s how to do it.

Peel off the thin layer of tissue at several nodes of your cuttings. Not every knot will spawn a new orchid, so you’ll want to make sure you pick several to work with. Next, apply a small amount of rooting hormone paste to the nodule area. Then continue with the remaining steps for rooting an orchid.

This step is also optional. Orchids can develop new growth without using rooting hormones. It just usually takes longer without using the rooting hormone paste. You still need to be patient whether to use rooting hormone paste or not as propagation from cuttings takes a while.

daylight

Because your orchid cuttings are initially wrapped in peat moss, they don’t need excessive light. In fact, it’s important to take care to keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight so you don’t accidentally “cook” them in the sun.

Instead, keep the cuttings in a spot with indirect sunlight and away from too much heat. Also make sure there is moisture and humidity available for the cuttings and that they are not in a spot where they will dry out too quickly.

Once your orchid cuttings are producing sprouts large enough to transplant into their own containers, you still need to protect the new orchids from direct sunlight. You don’t want to damage those tiny new orchids you’ve put so much effort into.

How long do orchid roots take to grow?

You’re probably excited about the idea of ​​propagating orchids and excited to see your new orchids grow. However, be aware that you must be patient. Don’t be too quick to imagine what your orchid collection will look like with all your new orchids.

You can see new growth appearing along the stem nodes you wrapped in moss in as little as six weeks. More realistically, you should expect to see growth within a few months. Rooting hormone paste can speed up this process, so definitely consider using a rooting hormone if you know you’re going to have trouble waiting.

Once you see growth, you’ll have to wait a little longer before transplanting the new orchids. Wait until the baby orchids have 2-3 inches of root growth and at least two leaves before placing them in their own orchid pots.

You may have to wait a year for this process from start to finish. However, don’t let that timeline put you off. Propagating your own orchids is a rewarding activity. Also, it is very possible for multiple stem nodes to produce new growth and you will have multiple new orchids by the end of the propagation process.

How to grow orchids from cuttings step by step

Growing orchids from cuttings differs from growing other plants from cuttings. You can’t just cut off part of an orchid, put it in water and expect new roots to start growing. Even if the propagation of orchids from cuttings is a little more complex than with other plants, it is still worth a try.

Here’s how to go through the process step-by-step.

Choose a healthy orchid stem that is between 10 and 12 inches long and has multiple nodes. Using sterile scissors or a sterile knife, cut the stem near the base. Use an antifungal like charcoal or cinnamon on the cut surfaces to prevent infection. Orchids are more susceptible to infection than other plants during this process. Next, decide whether or not to cut the stalk into smaller portions. Some people cut the trunk into sections with two knots each. Other people leave the trunk intact. You can use both methods. Just make sure to use charcoal or cinnamon for any new cuts you make. If you want to use rooting hormone, now is the time. Rooting hormone paste can increase the number of new orchids that develop and help those orchids develop faster. To use rooting hormone, carefully remove the casing from the nodes of the stem and apply a small amount of rooting hormone paste. Wrap the stem(s) in peat moss. This helps retain moisture. Place the wrapped stems in the container of your choice. Put some water in the container to allow the peat moss to soak up. No additional water should collect at the bottom of the container. Place plastic wrap or a plastic bag over the opening of the container. The purpose is to keep the surrounding area moist, but make sure there are several tiny holes in the plastic to allow some airflow. Keep the stems in a moist, warm environment until growth occurs. Make sure the moss does not dry out completely. Check the root nodes to look for growth. Not every node will sprout, and it may take a few months before progress is visible. Keep the sprouts in their containers until they have roots that are 2-3 inches long and have at least two leaves. Once the sprouts begin to develop leaves, wrap the moss more loosely around the stem, skipping portions to make more room for the sprouts.

The practical part of propagation does not take so much time, but you have to wait a while for the new orchids to develop. Read on to find out when to transplant your small orchids and the best way to care for them.

Best orchid soil potting mix

When your little orchids are mature enough to be transplanted, it’s time to start thinking about the best soil. After investing the time and effort into these new orchids, you want to make sure they survive.

The soil you use for your orchid is important. Without the right components in the soil, your orchid cannot get the nutrients it needs to thrive, so it’s important that you choose good soil for your orchids.

You cannot use regular potting soil for orchids. In the wild, most orchids do not grow in the ground. Instead, most of them grow between branches, which gives the roots a lot of air. Regular potting soil would be far too dense for orchids and definitely wouldn’t provide the right environment.

The perfect orchid soil mimics the natural environment of orchids. Good potting soil for orchids usually contains a mixture of moss, tree bark, and other organic matter.

One of our top brands of orchid soil is Sun Bulb’s Better-Gro Phalaenopsis Mix. This product contains materials that allow for good drainage and adequate airflow to the roots of your orchid.

There are also many other high quality orchid soil mixes. The important part is making sure you choose a mix intended for orchids. Other types of potting soil just won’t do for orchids.

drainage

We just talked about orchids needing proper drainage and good air circulation to thrive. As we’ve said before, choosing the right potting mix helps ensure proper drainage, but there’s another important factor that affects drainage: the right container.

Unless you have superpowers that allow you to know exactly how much water to give your orchid each time you water it, you need to choose a pot with drainage holes. This allows excess water to drain from the floor if necessary.

There are many beautiful pots with drainage holes, so don’t be tempted by pots without them. Or, if you’re buying a pot without drainage holes, plan to add some before you plant anything in it.

Orchids really don’t like having their roots in water for too long, so make sure you choose potting soil and pots that help with drainage.

pot size

You might think that bigger is better when it comes to a container for your orchids, but that’s not the case. Small orchids need small pots and larger orchids need big pots.

If you place a small orchid in a large pot, there may be too much potting soil, which could prevent proper airflow and damage the roots. You should transplant orchids to larger pots before they root, but their new pots should only be slightly larger than their previous pots.

Most orchids need a pot between 4-6 inches tall. However, you may need to transplant your new orchids into even smaller containers when they are first transported, as they are not yet as mature as the commercially available orchids.

How to plant an orchid stem cutting

Once a new orchid sprout from your cutting, continue to keep the area moist. When the new sprout has roots that are between 2-3 inches long and has at least two leaves, you can plant the new tiny orchid in its own pot.

As with any orchid, you should make sure you have good orchid soil in the pot. Cut off most of the stem below the new orchid, being careful not to damage the new plant. Leave about an inch of the stem intact. You can use the stem to anchor the orchid in the new growing medium.

In a pot mostly filled with orchid soil, carefully spread out the roots of the orchid. This allows the roots to absorb the water better. Then, carefully cover the top of the potting soil and the exposed roots with peat moss to keep the roots from drying out too quickly.

You’ll need to mist the new plant every day as it establishes itself. Most orchids require a constant temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, but this can vary slightly depending on the type of orchid.

How to check if roots are growing

While you wait for your orchid clones to sprout, simply unwrap the peat moss that is around them to check for growth. Once the roots and leaves begin to appear, move the peat moss to other parts of the stem to leave more room for the new orchids. The roots will likely begin to grow downward toward the peat moss in search of nutrients, so you can easily tell how long the roots are.

Once the orchids are in their own container, very lightly cover the roots with peat moss. All you have to do is gently push the moss aside to check for root growth. Don’t be alarmed if you don’t notice new root growth shortly after transplanting your new orchids. They need time to get used to their new surroundings.

Expect to wait one to three years after transplanting before seeing blooms on your new orchids. The growing process takes a little time, but the excitement of seeing flowers on orchids that you have propagated yourself is worth the wait.

How often to water

After transplanting your orchid, it is important to give it the right amount of water. While the new plant is still small, you need to spray it every day. Keep in mind that the roots are mostly at the surface of the potting soil when they start, so they don’t have very good access to moisture yet.

When you see the roots begin to mature and settle into the potting soil, you can water them as you water the rest of your orchids. Allow the potting soil to dry out between waterings. For most orchids, this means leaving at least a week between waterings. You’ll also likely need to provide less water in winter (although there are some orchids that require the same amount of water in winter).

Join our orchid care Facebook community

In our Orchid Lovers Facebook group, we are dedicated to creating a rich and engaging environment for plant lovers to come together and share tips, tricks and experiences.

If you are an orchid lover, join our Facebook community! We can’t wait to celebrate your achievements and help you troubleshoot your grooming routine.

For continued success, you can explore our other items or visit our online store for plant care products that are sure to provide your plants with rich green foliage and big, lush buds all year round.

More great orchid resources

Do orchids grow new stems? what you need to know

With their extraordinary beauty and unusual shapes, orchids are a great addition to your living space. But sometimes accidents happen, or beginners can make mistakes, and you sometimes wonder if you killed an orchid because its stem came loose or broke.

Luckily, orchids will grow new stems. You can propagate a new Phalaenopsis or Vanda orchid from cuttings. Or you can divide a Cattleya’s rhizomes. You can also expect a bud spike to regrow once it’s cut off if its flowers die off.

The long-lasting blooms, complete with the sweet scent they carry, can make a homeowner brim with pride when their orchids thrive. Here’s everything you should know about orchid stems and how to regrow them when they break.

Do orchids grow new stems?

With orchids, confusion can arise when it comes to what the stem is. Technically, there’s the stem itself where the foliage grows. There are two main types of orchids depending on how they grow: monopodial and sympodial.

One-legged orchids

One-legged orchids are those that have a root system and typically a stem. With these types of orchids, you only have one stem on which the leaves and flowers grow.

Over time, one-legged orchids grow taller and taller, and the roots and flowers grow out of the spaces between the leaves.

Vanda orchids are excellent examples of one-legged orchids. And yes, new ones will grow if you cut existing stems from one-legged orchids. It’s one of the methods of spreading them, as shown in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFjay-oE6c&ab_channel=AlexOrchidsandHouseplants

Sympodial Orchids

Rhizomes are stems that can form roots, stems, flowers, and pseudobulbs. These rhizomes are not just limited to orchids, but are also found in grasses, ginger, asparagus, lily of the valley, irises and cannas.

Rhizomes are a feature of sympodial orchids, a species of orchid that has many “feet.” The rhizomes of these orchids are thick and bulbous. It grows along the surface of the plant’s potting medium.

Vegetative Reproduction

Cutting the rhizomes to create new plants is a form of vegetative propagation, a way for plants to reproduce asexually. You can even see the top of the horizontally growing rhizomes. New shoots grow out in rhizomes, which in turn form their own roots.

Cutting the rhizomes is an excellent way to divide an existing plant and encourage new growth, as shown in this video:

So if you cut off this stem, not only will a new one grow, but also a whole orchid plant.

floral spikes

But for most people, when they talk about orchid stems, they are referring to flower spikes. Orchid tops or flower tops are the part of the plant where the buds and flowers grow. So what if you accidentally or even intentionally cut off a bud? Does that mean your orchids won’t have buds or flowers forever? Of course not!

If inflorescences break, you can cut them off just above the break. If you want to save the flowers, you can put the severed tip in a vase filled with water. Cutting off the remaining bud to the base will encourage your orchid to grow again as it will not expend energy to feed this broken bud.

Alternatively, if you don’t want to wait too long for your orchids to bloom and flower again, you can try cutting off the spike and leaving the rest on the plant. Provided their nodes are healthy, the orchids could flower again. When the stem dies, you need to cut it from the base and wait for a new inflorescence to grow.

Download my cheat sheet to learn more about orchid flower spikes and where to prune them once your orchid has bloomed. Click here to go to the cheat sheet. It will be super helpful.

Cut off the inflorescence of an orchid

Orchid growers will advise you to trim the inflorescence when the flowers have faded and withered. Instead of keeping a bare bud on your plant, you can prune it back and allow the orchid to devote its energy to growing a new bud, blooms and flowers.

When should you cut the inflorescence?

The thing about orchids and their inflorescences is that one inflorescence can mean your plant will flower for several months and even up to a year, especially with a Phalaenopsis where new flowers can appear even after the flowers have opened.

They cut off an inflorescence only after the flowers have died and no new growth has appeared on them. Another reason you shouldn’t prune an inflorescence is when a keiki appears. The keiki is the baby of the orchid and needs to be attached to the mother plant until its roots have formed.

At this point, the baby orchid can be transplanted into a new pot using an orchid growing medium.

Cutting the flower lace

So when the inflorescence stops growing, it’s time to prune it. The correct way to prune the ear of corn is to cut just above the last knot before the section where the first flowers appeared.

To do this, use sterilized scissors or a blade. You can wipe the blade with alcohol or even clean it over an open flame. However, if the inflorescence dries up completely, you can cut it off as close to its base as possible.

Another reason for cutting off the entire inflorescence is if your orchid is unhealthy and showing signs of ailment. Cutting off the inflorescence allows it to grow new roots and leaves instead of flowers.

This video shows you the different cases when you should or should not prune an inflorescence and how to do it right:

This will ensure that your orchid gets a new stem

Many of the reasons an orchid grows new rhizomes or bud sites is for health reasons. To keep your orchid healthy, you should observe the following care tips.

Give it plenty of water, but you should let it dry out completely before the next watering. You also need to be careful not to leave your orchids standing in water. Orchids like lukewarm water: not too hot and not too cold. Make sure it’s in a room with about 50-70% humidity. Increase the humidity levels indoors by spraying your orchids with a fine spray of water, placing them and other plants close together, placing the water and pebbles in a container, and placing your orchids on the rocks without letting the water and roots submerge in them use a humidifier. Fertilize your orchids weekly when there is new growth, then rejuvenate as the plant matures. Don’t fertilize when your orchids are dormant. Make sure your orchids get enough sunlight. It’s a common misconception that you should keep your orchids in dimly lit places. On the contrary, you should make sure that it gets about 12 hours of indirect sunlight every day. If you don’t get a lot of natural sunlight, you can always supplement it with artificial light. Orchids like it warm. Temperatures between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 30 degrees Celsius) are ideal for orchids. If you need to trim the rhizomes, stems, or bud sites, use sterilized blade pruning shears. Your orchids can become infected or susceptible to diseases like rot or insect infestation if you don’t do this. If your orchids become infected, check out these treatments

Conclusion

As long as your orchid is healthy, you don’t have to worry if you accidentally knock it over and break its stem. The stem, rhizomes and inflorescences of an orchid are replaced with a new stem or even a new plant.

To help you further, first download my free cheat sheet to see where to cut off the orchid flower tip after the flowers have faded to trigger rebloom. Click here to go to the cheat sheet. It will be super helpful.

Learn more about growing Phalaenopsis orchids

Sources

Caring for your orchid at the grocery store can feel daunting because the label directions just aren’t enough. In this article, I explain what you need to keep your supermarket orchid alive and blooming again in this beginner’s Phalaenopsis care guide.

The supermarket orchid called Phalaenopsis blooms again after the first flowers wither and fall off. Phalaenopsis orchids are known to rebloom frequently when given the right temperature, lighting levels, the right amount of water and fertilizer, and decent potting medium.

To get the orchid to bloom again in the supermarket, the branch must be cut after the last blooming node. If the inflorescence is cut back close to the stem, the orchid will not bloom again. Instead, it focuses on developing healthy roots and new leaves.

Mini Phalaenopsis purchased from my local Dillons

We’ve all done it. I certainly have. With a shopping list in hand, I carefully walk the aisles, selecting the items on my list, making sure not to forget an ingredient.

But somehow the flower section in the supermarket or grocery store attracts me like a magnet. The so-called “jumper orchids” jump from the supermarket shelves directly into our shopping trolleys.

This unprecedented and uncontrolled phenomenon is also occurring online.

When you get home, unpack the groceries and put them on the shelves and cupboards. As you gaze at the beautiful but insecure stranger sitting on your kitchen counter, questions begin to flood your mind.

What now?

How do I water this thing?

How am I supposed to keep it alive?

Aren’t orchids the most difficult plants to grow indoors?

To understand this new guest, read the flimsy instruction card. Usually these have three basic instructions:

1) give plenty of light but no direct sunlight;

2) keep temperatures decent, like around 65 to 85 F (18 to 20 C); and

3) Water with 3 ice cubes per week.

This is where the troubles start… Let me say this first – whatever this little map says, don’t follow it. I explain why.

This article allows you to start orchid care as a beginner, but most importantly, never stop learning. Keep learning.

1. Grocery store orchids are Phalaenopsis orchids

Orchids grow on literally every continent in the world except Antarctica. The majority of orchids grow in tropical and subtropical climates, but there are others that grow in deserts, savannas, swamps, plains, and any other climate as well.

For example, I wrote an article about desert orchids or orchids growing in arid places, which you can read here. In any case, your supermarket orchid is not a desert orchid.

To understand your orchid, you need to know what genus it is. Genus is the larger category of orchids, grouped according to similar growing conditions and habitats.

Some of the most common genera (genus plural) are Phalaenopsis – like the ones you just bought, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, Brassavola, Oncidium, Miltoniopsis and a whole host of mini orchids like Dracula and Masdevallia.

The genus is then divided into species. The Phalaenopsis orchid – your orchid at the supermarket – has about 66 known and classified subgroups called species.

There are several ways of dividing the Phalaenopsis orchids, for example into cool-growing or warm-growing. If you want to learn more about different types of orchids, read this article on orchid ID.

Another problem: the label on your orchid really gives no indication of what orchid you have, genus or species.

Most orchids in grocery stores are Phalaenopsis, but some places, like Lowe’s, may also have Cattleyas and Oncidiums. It’s rarer, but before you read on, make sure your orchid looks like the one below.

2. Grocery store orchids need sunlight to bloom again

All plants need some form of sunlight, either natural or artificial. Orchids love to be in bright places, but they rarely get an abundance of natural sunlight. Your grocery store Phalaenopsis was likely found near warmer tropical forests in the Philippines, Indochina, Malaysia and New Guinea.

Over time, nurseries have found ways to produce these orchids in the United States and not have to import them, bringing the price down significantly.

Back to the natural location of the orchid in the supermarket… These places all have the same altitude, temperature, light conditions and humidity.

Phalaenopsis orchids naturally grow on trees, so they don’t like being potted.

Their roots will firmly grip the tree bark about a third of the tree’s height. They do this because they need more sun and on the forest floor the sun does not penetrate due to the dense leaves at the top. Hardly any natural sunlight reaches the underside of the forest floor.

Orchids had to find a way to get more sun. You get about 80% filtered light, but you’re still in bright places. To recreate this in your home, you need to find a window that gets the morning sun for about two hours.

Without this source of sunlight, your orchid will not bloom again in the supermarket. More than the morning light for a few hours provokes sun damage to the leaves. Sun damage can also be caused by heat damage. It is not only the direct rays that damage the leaves, but also the temperature of the sun.

Overheating causes the leaf to open and stay open the gas exchange pores called stomata to allow the temperature to drop. This leads to a loss of moisture, which in turn dries out your orchid.

If your orchid is too hot, the leaves will begin to develop deep furrows and appear leathery.

In the continental United States, this eliminates west-facing windows for most orchids in grocery stores. When I lived in Brazil, the north windows were also removed. It all depends on where you live and how much sun your window gets.

Now that I’m in the States and settled in the farmland of Kansas, I grow my orchids indoors. When I bought my current house I hadn’t thought about the light/window aspect.

Murphy’s Law would predict that none of my windows actually get a decent amount of sun. My east window is so dark that nothing grows. My solution was to buy grow lights and this is the model I ended up buying (affiliate link).

Take a little tour of your home in the early hours of the morning and take a close look at how much light your orchid is getting when it’s on every window sill. If you come to the conclusion that no window is really good, then there is hope.

Don’t give up on your orchid from the supermarket.

You can buy plant lamps or artificial lights. There’s a whole article here about artificial lighting and how to choose the best light for you.

3. Grocery store orchids need good water to bloom

No matter what the instruction card says, do not use ice cubes to water your orchids. I’ll explain why in this article, but to summarize, most orchids are tropical and subtropical plants.

Your Phalaenopsis orchid definitely is. The temperature shock that the cold water triggers on the roots paralyzes root growth. The amount of water is never enough and the ice cubes do not hydrate the entire medium.

I use room temperature distilled water to water my orchids.

Depending on where you live, tap water can be extremely harmful due to the high levels of chlorine and fluoride in the water. Also, the pH is usually way too high for orchids, which prefer a pH of around 5.5 to 6.5. Kansas tap water is 8.8.

If you are serious about growing this orchid then I suggest getting a pH meter. You can find them at aquarium stores, pet stores, and even on Amazon. I got mine for under $10. It’s a tool you don’t use all the time, but it can give you an indication of the direction you’re headed.

Most of the time, this pH meter also comes with a part-per-million meter that tells you how many elements, minerals, and other “dirt” are in your water. This is extremely important to know because you want the best water for your orchid.

I won’t go into that further as this article is all about re-blooming, but if you’d like check out this other article on the best water for your orchid. No matter what, using ice cubes is the best way to ensure your orchid doesn’t rebloom properly.

Another thing to consider when watering your orchid is not only the best water, but also how much and how often. One of the biggest challenges you face as a new orchid grower is water consumption. Overwatering is the main problem of orchid mortality.

Overwatering can happen for two reasons: too much water and overwatering. Take your orchid to the sink and use so little water you think you’ll kill it from dehydration if it’s in the potting soil it came with.

Don’t worry…

This gross potting soil medium is made for small amounts of water. Your orchid is used to this amount but will not live in it for long. I’ll get to that point in a moment.

Once you’ve swapped out your potting medium, you can use more water and your orchid will appreciate it. Orchids tend to be thirsty and the three ice cube method just won’t cut it.

4. A drop in temperature encourages flowering

In nature, the night cools down by about 11 °C, depending on where you live. Even on the hot nights, orchids experience cooler night time as compared to daytime temperatures. In order to induce rebloom, this drop in temperature at night is essential.

You can achieve this drop in a number of ways. In winter you can simply turn off the heat in this room. The drop indoors should be about 10 degrees, but no more. In the summer, I run the ceiling fan at night.

My Phalaenopsis orchids tend to be warm growing orchids and I found I needed a heating pad during Kansas’ severe winter storms. At night, in the colder months, I put a heating pad underneath to make sure the temperature drop isn’t too great.

I use this heating pad (affiliate link) but later changed my mind. I recommend others on this site. It’s simply the cheapest I found at the time and I have no regrets.

It’s been said that this drop in temperature needs to be constant month after month, but I’ve found that if you do this for a little over a month, that’s all you really need. It’s best if you can keep that drop year-round, but if you’re just focusing on getting your supermarket orchid to bloom again, then a month will do the trick.

5. To re-bloom a supermarket orchid, add fertilizer

Have you noticed that there is no fertilizer on the leaflet? No… so sad. In any case, supermarket orchids do not only live on water. By the way, nobody does that. We all need an adequate supply of food, a balanced diet and small portions of nutrients several times a day.

This is where the fertilizer begins. Grab a bag of orchid fertilizer (if you need help choosing, read this article I wrote about the 5 ways or methods to fertilize orchids) and use a tiny, little, little tiny portion 3 out of the four weeks , in which you pour.

There are three numbers on the fertilizer bag called the N-P-K ratio and that is the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that each bag contains. Whatever you use, get one that is suitable for orchids. Different houseplants have different requirements.

When fertilizing, think again about how orchids grow in nature. In the treetops (or the upper 1/3) the orchids receive nutrients floating on the wind currents. Your aerial roots capture these nutrients along with any water droplets in the air. This is called relative humidity.

When it rains, and let me tell you something – in Brazil, when it rained, it poured. Poured down like torrential floods that stopped in an hour or two but came back the next day to do the same.

This rain falls on the overhead leaves in the treetops. These leaves contain animal feces, half-eaten fruit scraps, bee pollen, and all other types of nutrient-dense items.

The rainwater flowing in the grooves of the tree bark brings with it tannins that are high in antioxidants. We can get these tannins by drinking tea, which many orchid growers like to use. If you are curious about using tea as an orchid fertilizer, read this article.

In summary, the orchid receives nutrients in tiny doses 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The amount of nutrients is constant but minimal. For your orchid at the supermarket, you need to provide ¼ of the recommended dose of fertilizer for your orchids. Water with this solution three times every four weeks.

In this free guide below you can read all about fertilization and what is best for your orchid. I’ve also included ways to use natural fertilizers if you’re against the store-bought ones.

The final point I want to make about fertilizing is that too much fertilizer is more damaging than no fertilizer at all. Your orchid needs fertilizer, but pay attention to the dosage.

6. Grocery store orchids need moisture to thrive again

Getting your orchid to bloom again in the supermarket requires recreating the same conditions found in nature in your home. That includes moisture.

Most supermarket orchids require 40 to 60% relative humidity to maintain a healthy root and leaf system. At lower temperatures, aerial roots begin to dry out and leaves do not perform adequate gas exchange.

Remember when I mentioned that hot air opens the stomata on the underside of the leaves? This happens because the leaves have to shed the excess heat they built up during the day.

The leaves, like the orchid roots, are responsible for gas exchange. The main reason you need to have your orchid in a ventilated pot is just that: the orchid roots need to breathe and absorb water droplets from the air.

In the wild, if the relative humidity in your home fluctuates between 27 and 33%, an orchid lives in much wetter climates. The amount of water droplets in the air will be much higher in their natural habitat and you need to increase this amount of water circulating in the air. To do this, you can buy a humidifier or use a moisture tray.

Because Phalaenopsis orchids – at least those from the supermarket – do not need as much moisture and can do without humidifiers. In her case, a moisture tray works.

However, keep in mind that the humidity tray only increases humidity by 2-4% and only up to 2 inches on the sides of the orchid pot. If you have a massive orchid in a tall pot, humidity trays don’t really help much. If you see the aerial roots starting to shrink, it’s a sure sign it’s time to buy a humidifier.

When I bought mine, I wrote down my entire research process to figure out what was the best thing to buy. I can’t directly recommend mine as I don’t know your growing conditions or climate. My suggestion would be to read through this article and take notes on what would work for you.

Phalaenopsis orchids will not flower again if they cannot breathe properly. This happens because the stomata are closed. Feeling the low humidity, they don’t want to open their breathing mechanisms to lose the low humidity they have. So they kept closed.

Toxic levels increase due to the non-functioning gas exchange and the leaf begins to crumble from the inside out. The leaf will wither and dry out. To learn how to manage proper humidity levels, read this article I wrote about relative humidity for orchids.

7. Decent Potting Medium encourages flower spikes

The potting medium — in which the orchid is potted — is usually a brownie-like, cake-like dry gelatin mess. That’s officially my technical definition. It only worked for a short time to sell the orchid, but in the long run it must be removed.

The roots should be plump, fat, and green. You should be able to see them through the pot and this is the best way to tell if your orchid is healthy. A healthy orchid has healthy roots, so don’t think your orchid is healthy just because it has a beautiful bloom.

However, the roots will rot if kept in this potting soil for a long time. This original supermarket potting medium is a mixture of peat moss and other substances that will smother your orchid over time.

To sell supermarket orchids placed in a super arid climate (supermarket orchids are exposed to extremely low relative humidity, so you usually see them in the produce aisle where humidifiers are already misting the vegetables to keep them green and juicy to hold ) the potting soil must hold back as much water as possible.

This super absorbent potting soil does not handle water well. It is designed to absorb the trickling water that melts from the ice cubes. To conduct a little experiment, melt three ice cubes in a cup and measure how much water that actually produces – not much.

This extremely small amount of water isn’t the best for the orchid, but it doesn’t need much to make it through the weeks on the supermarket shelf.

After the flowers have fallen off, you should repot your orchid. Rid their roots of all that horrible potting soil and transplant them into a vase with lots of holes. Use a substrate made from orchid bark and peat moss.

Depending on your climate, you’ll need to find a potting medium that works best for you. I suggest reading this article on peat moss and this other one on the best potting soil for any orchid.

8. How to get your supermarket orchid to rebloom

Finally the part you wanted to read for the entire article. Once the blooms have fallen off and you’ve done the care outlined above and know you’ve done your best, your Phalaenopsis orchid will have one of two decisions to make. You can help him decide.

The supermarket orchid can either work to develop new leaves and healthier roots, or it can focus on a new flowering spike. If the orchid has had a rough year, I suggest leaving the inflorescence for another time.

Inflorescences consume an enormous amount of energy. So much energy that some orchids go dormant, like the Catasetum and Dendrobium orchids.

Phalaenopsis orchids will not go dormant, but they will be extremely weak.

You need a break. If you’ve had your orchid for a year and it’s the second object it’s bloomed on, then yes, make your orchid rebloom. She hasn’t been through much this year and can handle the stress of another rebloom.

How do you induce an orchid bloom? By cutting off the faded inflorescence close to the top, just after the least blooming node, you can get the supermarket orchid to rebloom. Supermarket orchids are “grown” for second blooms. Orchid growers want to make money from them and nobody buys an orchid that doesn’t bloom.

TIP: Rescue Orchids are cheaper by the way and a great deal… When the orchid flowers die at the supermarket, big department stores push them into a dark, gloomy corner and leave them to die. These are great projects and just like buying an old car, learning about mechanics – or orchid care – is the best way. A new car teaches you nothing.

By cutting back the inflorescence to the nearest node near the orchid’s stem, you force the orchid to focus on new roots and leaves. If you have a diseased orchid, the best solution is this: cut back the spike.

The amount of energy expended on producing a new inflorescence is so great that the orchid must decide whether to focus on new flowers or new roots. The orchid cannot fulfill both tasks.

In summary, in order to get a Phalaenopsis supermarket orchid to bloom again, you need to create the same conditions found in nature. These include the filtered morning light for 2 hours; the right relative humidity of 40 to 80%, the right water supply, amount and frequency; and potted in a medium that replicates the side of a tree.

This article was just the beginning, but to really dive deep into orchid care, keep reading about each of these topics.

I suggest the following articles to get a complete overview of orchid care and from there to specialize in a particular orchid. Another good idea is to attend orchid societies and orchid talks. Group forums also answer many questions that pop up sporadically. If you live in the United States, the American Orchid Society is a good place to start.

How to Know if Your Orchid is Healthy – This article talks about 13 signs to watch out for that will indicate if your orchid is healthy or not

The Benefits of Adding Charcoal to Your Orchid – Charcoal is an ingredient that brings only positive vibes to your orchid growth

Don’t stop learning!

If you would like to be included in more information and receive a 14-page fertilization guide, please sign up for my newsletter. I don’t spam but send out emails every two months with some interesting interesting topics. If you want more information, click here to go to a specific page on this site where I explain it in more detail.

If you are looking for an orchid journal to keep your notes specifically about orchid care, check out my 2 solutions to it on this page. If note-taking isn’t your thing, there’s a free Excel spreadsheet you can download. Click here for more information about it.

If you subscribe to my newsletter, I will send you a 14-page guide with the most important tips for orchid fertilizer. It is downloadable and you can print it on your computer. I’ve designed the instructions to double as a coloring book just for the fun of it.

I wish you the best in your orchid care and once you see how easy orchids are (if you have the right information) that orchid for the first time, your orchid from the supermarket, will become like an addiction – in a good way .

Have fun cultivating!

After months of enjoying beautiful blooms, Phalaenopsis owners are unsurprisingly upset and concerned that their orchid is dying when blooms and buds begin to dry, turn brown and fall off the plant. When the plant’s head shrivels and turns brown and the orchid’s once glossy leaves become dull and flat, disappointed orchid owners often assume their orchid is dead and discard what should have been a perfectly healthy plant. Your orchid may look dead; but with the right orchid care, it will bloom again and can bloom for a few more years. You just have to have faith and patience!

Orchid Life Cycle

Like other flowers, Phalaenopsis orchids go through an annual cycle of growth, flowering, dormancy, and “rebirth” that begins anew each year. New owners of Phalaenopsis orchids often confuse the beginning of the plant’s dormancy with death. As part of the orchid’s normal life cycle, the dormant period is the plant’s natural dormant period. During the dormant period, Phalaenopsis orchids use their energy to strengthen their root systems, grow leaves, replenish energy stores depleted by flowering, and accumulate nutrients for the next growing and flowering season.

The life cycle of a well cared for Phalaenopsis Orchid is typically eight to 12 months, with a flowering time averaging two to three months, although some Phalaenopsis owners have reported flowering times of five or six months and occasionally longer! With proper care, Phalaenopsis hybrids can flower for four seasons, sometimes longer.

sign of calm

Look out for the following signs that indicate your Phalaenopsis orchid is entering its dormant phase:

Orchid stops blooming.

Flowers wilt and fall off the plant.

Orchid branches can stay green or turn brown.

The leaves lose their glossy appearance and appear to flatten out.

The lower leaves may turn yellow or reddish when the orchid sheds mature leaves.

Once your orchid enters its dormant phase, download our FREE guide to learn how to trigger reblooming!

If you have an orchid or two at home, you may be wondering what to do with the inflorescence once flowering has finished. You may think it’s time to buy a new plant. Here’s the good news – with a little care, your Phalaenopsis orchid will produce those beautiful blooms again.

Do you cut orchid stems? You should trim the stem of a Phalaenopsis orchid after flowering. Cut your orchid just above the knot on the stem, just below where the first flower bloomed. This increases the likelihood of another flowering cycle of the same flower spike.

By following my advice here, you’ll increase the chances of your orchid producing those beautiful blooms again without having to wait for an entirely new inflorescence to grow. Due to their overwhelming popularity, I’m going to focus on Phalaenopsis orchids in this article.

What is the difference between an orchid stem and an orchid flower tip?

Many people use the term stem when actually referring to the inflorescence. The long, slender growth that rises from the vegetation of a Phalaenopsis orchid and holds the buds and flowers is called the inflorescence.

The stem refers to the thick, green, vegetative origin of the leaves. However, in this article I use the terms stalk and inflorescence interchangeably to refer to the inflorescence. I do this because some people caring for Phalaenopsis orchids at home may not know the correct terminology. And besides, it doesn’t matter as long as we all know we’re referring to the same things.

Trimming tools

For trimming, you can use scissors, a sharp knife or pruning shears. When trimming your orchids, only use clean and sterile cutting tools. Otherwise, you can transfer bacteria, fungi, or viruses from one plant to the next.

To sterilize your tools, clean them with rubbing alcohol or heat the blade with a flame. Your other option is to use razor blades, one per plant, and then carefully dispose of the blade after you’ve pruned a plant. This reduces the risk of infecting your orchids with disease and damaging or killing them.

There is just one last requirement – ​​treat the cut stems with an anti-fungal herbicide after trimming. Or use cinnamon from your kitchen – it’s a natural fungicide. Simply rub a little cinnamon directly onto the cut surface. Be careful not to get cinnamon on the orchid leaves, as it will draw moisture out of the leaves.

Examine the flower spike;

What you do with the flower spike depends on how it looks after the flowers fall off. If it’s green and healthy, it’ll stay alive and able to produce a secondary spike and more buds. If it’s brown and dry, it won’t bloom again and it’s best to cut it back right away. Here is the process to follow in each situation.

Trimming healthy stems

On the stem, look for a knot below the lowest flower head. Trim just an inch above this knot and make a clean cut. If you do this, there is about a 50% chance that a side shoot will grow out of this node, which should then flower again.

The advantage of cutting off a bud like this is that there is a reasonable chance the plant will produce more flowers much sooner than if you were waiting for a new bud to develop.

However, the orchid needs more energy to flower again so soon and the flowers may be smaller than before. Sometimes it’s best to give your orchid a little break from producing those beautiful flowers.

If your orchid is looking less healthy, I would advise cutting off the inflorescence at the base. This allows the orchid to focus on developing new roots and leaves and building up energy stores to grow a new bud cluster in the next blooming season.

Cut off dead stems

If the stalk is brown and unhealthy, there is no point in trimming the stalk above a node. When the inflorescence has turned brown, the orchid has decided that inflorescence is dead and no amount of care on your part will change that.

Cut the stem down to the base of the plant. This is the best way to encourage the plant to focus on growing healthier roots and encouraging full flowering next year. The healthier the root system, the happier your orchid will be.

Sometimes only the upper part of the inflorescence has turned brown, while the lower part remains green and vibrant. I’ve had good success cutting the bud spike just above the highest healthy node, so feel free to try it.

This can sometimes result in a side shoot growing quite low, but it can be carefully staked out as it grows to create a more vertical flower display.

Trimming Double Spike Phalaenopsis Orchids

If you’re lucky, your Phalaenopsis might have a double spike rather than a single one. If you have one of these orchids, trim the stems this way: cut one stem above a node and the other stem at the base of the plant.

The orchid won’t have enough energy to bloom again from both bud sites, but by focusing on one, you increase the likelihood of secondary blooms without having to wait for a new bud site to develop.

Check out my video below to learn all about what to do with your Phalaenopsis orchid spike after flowering has finished.

Trimmed and still no buds?

It can be frustrating… you’ve trimmed the stem of your orchid and you’re still not getting any new flowers. what are you doing wrong There are five main reasons your orchid might refuse to flower for you.

1. Orchid Genetics

Sometimes phalaenopsis orchids just won’t bloom from the same flower spike no matter what you do. Just try to give him the best possible care and keep your fingers crossed. Some plants seem to produce reblooms easily, while others don’t. It’s not always related to the care you provide.

2. Not enough light

Orchids produce energy through photosynthesis. So if your orchid doesn’t get enough light, it won’t have enough energy to bloom again quickly.

Orchids should ideally be no more than about 3 feet from a window to thrive. Orchids thrive best with light from above, so too far away from the window means there isn’t enough light. And without the right kind of light, your orchid won’t have enough energy to bloom and produce flowers. Also, any new growth on the plant will be small, with leaves that are less vibrant.

3. Not the right temperature

Another reason your orchid may not flower is that the plant is not being kept at the right temperature. Orchids are very picky about the temperatures they live in.

During the day, temperatures should be between 16 and 24 °C. At night, the temperature should be below 65 to 75°F (16 to 24°C), with around 60°F (15°C) being preferred. The need for these temperature fluctuations is to stimulate the plant to produce buds and then flowers.

4. Not the right kind of water

Are you giving your orchid the right water? Yes…orchids can be a bit finicky at times. Water from your faucet can sometimes be too hard, which can lead to problems with nutrient absorption and toxicity. Orchids thrive when you use distilled water or rainwater. So give it a try if you are worried about the quality of your tap water.

5. Unhealthy roots

Check your orchid’s root system. If you watered too much, you may have damaged the plant’s roots and caused some root rot. Unhealthy roots are also the result of decayed potting soil that no longer contains the nutrients your orchid needs to thrive, grow and bloom.

Repot after trimming

Consider repotting your orchid after trimming the stem, especially if you’ve trimmed the stem back to the base. Why is this a good time? Your orchid will focus on growing new leaves and roots as it enters the vegetative stage.

Providing new potting soil and maintaining the roots at this time can allow the orchid to reach its full potential. Read my article on repotting Phalaenopsis orchids to learn more.

Whether you trim the stem or not, the orchid mix will begin to break down within a year or two, depending on the medium used. An orchid bark mix is ​​a good choice for transplanting – this mix has been specially formulated for orchids to allow for proper drainage.

Fertilize after trimming

You should fertilize your orchid every 1-2 weeks while it is not flowering, regardless of whether you have trimmed the inflorescence or not. Use a balanced fertilizer that contains all the basic nutrients that the plant needs, such as: B. a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Make sure the fertilizer is urea-free.

One thing to keep in mind when fertilizing your orchid – they will thrive better with too little fertilizer than with too much. Many orchid growers recommend using half the recommended fertilizer strength weekly, rather than fertilizing more infrequently.

Tips to get your orchid blooming… and blooming longer

You should generally only rebloom once from the same stem to avoid tiring the orchid. Otherwise, you may see smaller buds and signs of stress in the rest of the plant.

Check the air circulation in the pot – the roots of your orchid need a gentle flow of air. You can achieve this by making sure you use an appropriate potting medium such as pine bark.

When your orchid is in bloom, make sure the roots are allowed to dry out between watering. If the soil is too wet, the flowers may fall off before they bloom.

Place your orchid in a room with good air circulation – stale air can allow bacteria or fungal diseases to grow on the flowers and leaves.

Keep your orchid away from fruit ripening in your kitchen. Ripe fruit releases ethylene gas, which can cause your orchid’s flowers to die and fall off.

Never spray your orchid. If there is too much moisture on the flowers, fungi and bacteria can grow.

Keep the humidity around 40-70%. Low humidity can cause bud drop, leaf desiccation, and brown leaf tips. Excessive moisture increases the risk of bacterial and fungal diseases.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long will it take for my orchid to bloom again?

After trimming the stem of your orchid, the plant may start blooming again at the same flower tip in about 8 to 12 weeks, but it may take up to a year or more. However, orchids do not always bloom on the same flower spike. In fact, if they usually only rebloom from the same spike about 50% of the time. Read my article on reblooming Phalaenopsis orchids here.

Is there anything else I can do to encourage rebloom?

To get your orchid blooming again after trimming, you can expose the plant to cooler nighttime temperatures. Avoid placing the plant in a place where there are gusts of cold air.

My orchid’s buds are turning yellow and falling off… should I trim the stem?

Beauty takes effort, which is why orchids need their beauty rest between flowering periods. During this time, they replenish nutrients lost during this impressive, colorful flowering period. During dormancy her buds fall off leaving only her bare stalks, leading many owners to believe their plants have gone to the great greenhouse in the sky. But much like Sleeping Beauty, your orchid is not dead; it is just resting.

How to tell if an orchid is dormant or dead.

The telltale differences:

1) Crown and Roots: If the crown – the part of the plant that connects the leaves and roots – is brown and mushy (this can happen from too much water), the orchid is probably dead. A healthy, dormant orchid, however, will have it Roots that are green or white and feel bulging or tight to the touch.

Tip: To avoid overwatering, continue watering your dormant orchid as you normally would, using three ice cubes once a week for a premium full-size orchid.

2) Yellow leaves: If only the bottom leaf turns yellow, don’t worry. This is a natural process of the plant shedding the mature leaf to produce a new leaf.

Tip: Make sure your orchid gets enough light. Place your plant in a south-facing window.

3) Wrinkled leaves are also a sign of low humidity. Phalaenopsis are tropical and thrive in humidity between 55 and 75%.

Tip: In colder winter climates, combat the dry, forced indoor heat with a humidifier to maintain optimal humidity levels.

Fresh mix every year or so is a good way to stave off problems, and a planned and disciplined watering schedule of “weekly light” watering with MSU FEED ME! Fertilizer is designed to keep your orchids fit and healthy. Try our new oxygen core pots to revive plants with root loss. We like to water by pouring over the mixture until the liquid runs through the pot’s drainage holes. Using a moisture tray under the plants makes life easier for us and our plants as we can water “in place” without having to carry the plants around and to the sink and we don’t have to wipe up drips and spills. The orchids also benefit as they have a wetter environment and the liquid under their leaves evaporates. It’s like a tropical environment for her!

One can determine moisture content by learning the approximate weight of a plastic potted orchid when watered and dry. It’s really noticeable. Another approach, especially with sphagnum-based blends, is to touch the top of the blend. If it feels crispy, that’s a good indicator that it’s time to pour. There are other techniques as well, but we find the two mentioned quite satisfactory.

Many orchids really like to dry off between watering. Unlike houseplants, they don’t like being constantly wet, nor do they like water being poured over the center of the plant, the crown. If water builds up in the crown, it’s a good idea to blot it off with a paper towel or similar absorbent material.

Following these simple best practices should help keep your orchids happy and healthy. With care, they can also help keep you happy and healthy for a long time!

Orchids are not only rare and unique, but also expensive. There are several reasons why orchids are expensive. If you find the common phalaenopsis, cattleyas and beautiful orchid flowers in a bouquet or floral arrangement, some of them are available at very reasonable prices. But there are orchids that are expensive on the market. An example of a high-priced orchid is the Rothschild slipper orchid. This species of orchid is found in the rainforests of Mount Kinabalu in northern Borneo. This is the most expensive orchid in the world, priced at $5,000-$6,000 per stem on the black market. Thinking about why orchids are expensive? Here are some of the top reasons for the high price:

Orchids are rare

Most orchids are endemic to the wild and rainforests and are not found in other common places. Although many of the orchid varieties are now cultivated to create a perfect hybrid, the original species used for the hybrids are the rare species. Some are hard to find while others are hard to reach. It may take extra effort and money to get a particular variety of orchid. For example, the Gold of Kinabalu, the world’s most expensive orchid, is found only in Mount Kinabalu and its species are limited to just 50 or fewer.

Orchids are unique

In terms of appearance, the orchids with the most unique appearance are expected to be more expensive. The unique appearance makes the special type of orchid very popular and therefore expensive. The bog orchid, for example, is a unique species with a 50 cm tall stem and its inflorescence of greenish flowers capped by the dorsal and lateral sepals. This structure is not common in orchids. Other types of orchids are also unique and therefore expensive. The ghost orchid is an example. This flower is a white rich color that appears to be floating in the dark like a ghost. There are more than 30,000 species of orchids around the world, but each of them is unique and different.

Orchids are threatened with extinction

Some, but not all, are critically endangered species and they are only available in small numbers. They’re expensive because they’re hard to find. Most threatened orchid species are threatened by the destruction of their natural habitat in the wild. Some endangered species of orchids cannot be bought because the government protects and preserves them to prevent extinction.

Orchids are difficult to grow

Some orchids are easy to grow. The most common and popular species can be grown at home and in the garden with simple and basic orchid care. On the other hand, there are certain types of orchids that are difficult to grow. It takes the grower, even the best gardener, 10 to 15 years to grow and bloom the orchid. Because of this, the cost of orchid flowering is high and expensive.

Orchids are breathtakingly beautiful

Orchids are more expensive than other flowers because of their exotic beauty. Orchids bloom in a variety of colors, and that’s just one of the reasons they’re so beautiful. Aside from the unique appearance and attractive patterns, color combinations and interesting shapes, orchids are also fragrant. Not only do they make a standalone centerpiece, they make great floral gifts, interior decorations for the home or office, and more. The beauty of orchids is sure to bring joy and charm to everyone. Orchids come in all colors and each can suit all kinds of occasions and themes.

Orchids are versatile

There are many uses and purposes associated with flowers or orchids. Orchids are great for bouquets and floral arrangements. They are also wonderful to use as room decoration and garden plants. Orchids are also used to create and manufacture high quality fragrances and perfumes. Among the native tribes, orchids are commonly used for their medicinal properties, while some are used to flavor foods. Orchids were sought and hunted in various regions. The high demand for orchids was due to the uses and benefits of these flowers. Because of the versatility of orchids, they are more expensive than other flowers.

Orchids are long-lived

The flowering period of orchids is longer than the flowering period of other plant species. Some orchids produce flowers that can last a month, while others can last longer than six months. For this reason they are expensive. The average orchid will typically last for weeks when grown indoors and outdoors, but with a lot of effort and care, orchids can bloom even longer.

Among the most expensive orchid species are the Rothschild slipper orchids, which are priced at $5,000 per stem, and the Shenzhen Nongke orchid, which costs around $202,000. They bloom once every 5 or 10 years depending on how they are cared for. If you grow them yourself at home, you will get the most beautiful and fragrant flowers at any flowering time. You may no longer need to buy the flowers, but the value of each bloom is priceless. Nothing compares to the expense of growing and caring for your orchid plants at home. With all your efforts and hard work, you make orchids more expensive and special than all other types of plants and flowers.

7 tips for watering your orchid

On holiday

You have maintained your watering routine and your orchids are showing positive signs of adapting well to the watering conditions you provide. Holidays tend to throw a wrench into the system since you might be gone for long periods of time. Of course you worry about how your orchids will survive.

How long can an orchid last without drying out?

Most orchids can survive two to three weeks (a typical holiday season) without watering, occasionally up to a month. Cattleyas, Dendrobiums and Phalaenopsis will all survive if not watered for up to three weeks as long as their medium is kept moist. Few strains can make it two months or more, but with irreversible damage before death.

Typical signs of desiccation are drooping, wrinkled leaves, no root growth, and visible veins in the leaf. This question usually pops up around the holiday season. For a typical two week holiday period, your orchid will be fine without watering.

If you are going on a longer vacation, up to a month, there are some ideas and tips so that the orchid does not feel your absence so much.

Methods for delaying how long your orchid dries out

1. The first solution is to soak your orchid medium in water for 30 minutes on the day you leave. This is an excessively long time, but the idea is to hydrate your orchid medium more than the typical watering cycle.

2. Another idea to keep your orchid from drying out is to add moisture. This can be done by adding water under the orchid planter.

Choose a small pan filled with rocks, gravel, or other raised pebbles.

Only fill the pan halfway up the sides with water.

Do not cover the rocks with water.

Place the orchid pot over the pebbles.

The water will naturally evaporate over time and float up towards the pot.

For a longer period of time, use a thicker layer of stone and add more water.

3. After the pot is placed in the pan, place a clear plastic sheet over the pot to retain moisture. You’ve seen these clear bags placed over bud sites in flower departments or grocery stores. As a result, the moisture is retained longer and cannot escape into the dry environment of the supermarket. Flowers can be stored in these bags for months.

A good picture is the terrarium – a closed one. The terrarium does just that: it traps the moisture in the jar and creates its own mini condensation cycle. With the plastic bag securely fastened over the pan and locking in the moisture, you create the terrarium feel. If you’re going to be gone for a month or more, try two things: take them outside and change the potting medium. Of course, both of these options have variables that could make them a bad idea.

4. Take them outside if it’s spring, summer or fall. In no case do not take them out in winter. Find a shady spot under a tree where direct sunlight doesn’t reach them but has enough light to be outside. If direct sunlight falls on the leaves for a long period of time, the orchid will suffer and is likely to die. Also, if you live in an area that rarely rains, don’t attempt this method unless you have a sprinkler system hooked up. Without them, your orchid will only dry out more when you’re outside and you’ll be left with crusty roots and wilted leaves when you come back.

5. Change the potting medium: If the orchid is not blooming, this could be an option. Swap out harder materials that won’t absorb water (like charcoal, pine bark, pebbles, gravel, Styrofoam peanuts, etc.) for peat moss. Before repotting, soak the peat moss for 30 minutes so that it absorbs as much water as possible. Of course, this solution only adds a couple of days to the medium, but everything helps if you consider a month without watering.

6. If all else fails, you can contact your local nursery. Some nurseries will take your plant on board and tend it for a small fee. This might be a better solution if you are planning to travel for more than a month or if you have repeated absences. Just because orchids can go up to three weeks without water doesn’t mean they like it or will thrive.

7. You can always find someone to water your orchids for you, but we hesitate to include this idea on our list because this suggestion has resulted in the death of many orchids. Loving and caring people who don’t know how to water their orchids properly will soak the little orchid souls to the point of their imminent drowning. When in doubt, we would prefer not to involve a house sitter, or at least give them a detailed lesson on how to water your orchids – and when NOT to water them.

After reading this article, you might be tempted to use too much water. To answer our question, “Can orchids become dehydrated?” The answer is yes!” You should.

According to Tim Johnson of the Chicago Botanical Gardens, “You should water your moth orchid with rain or distilled water early in the morning when the mix becomes dry. It is best not to use water that has been softened by a water softener. Watering once every four to seven days should be sufficient, and the plant should never be standing in water. It’s healthy to have a little dry spell to keep the roots from fungus.” Source: Chicago Tribune newspaper

Overwatering is an extreme hazard, and likely one that kills more orchids than letting them dry out. Make sure you know how to test potting soil medium.

If you need more tips, check out this article on watering orchids published in Redlands Daily Facts by Joyce Dean, a member of the Riverside-San Bernardino Counties Orchid Society.

There is one situation where you would actually benefit from not watering an orchid: extreme root rot. Remove all moss and other potting soil and let the orchid sit in its pot without anything.

Nothing. Nada. zilch. Zero potting mix.

The orchid will suffer, but it’s an extreme measure to save an orchid in an extreme moisture crisis. The orchid can survive for up to two months, depending on the species, and then transplant it back into a moist potting soil covered with peat moss. We personally can’t think of any other reason not to water an orchid.

Now that you know all about pouring on vacation and keep your soul thirsty for God, may your trip be awesome! Even better, may you return home and your orchids thrive and feel good.

Before you go, check out some of our other articles on moisture, using peat moss for potting, or what to do after the flowers fall.

If this information was helpful and cleared your doubts, please mention it in the comments. I love interacting with other orchid lovers and we can share our experiences.

Share this page with a friend who has an orchid, comment or just give me a thumbs up 😊 in the comments below.

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Orchids are finicky plants that will only show off their exotic blooms if you arrange the environment to their liking. That usually means warm temperatures, 40 to 60 percent humidity, and bright, indirect sunlight. When something is wrong in an orchid’s habitat, it begins to die. However, a few peculiarities, such as a dead leaf or a missing flower, do not automatically mean that your orchid will die. Before you let your orchid go, you need to examine it carefully to make sure it really is dead.

Orchids are beautiful plants that can thrive anywhere from wetlands, deserts, mountains, coasts, or even underwater.

However, at the slightest deviation from optimal conditions, they will eventually die. One of the signs of a dying orchid is falling leaves.

Just because the orchid leaves have fallen off doesn’t mean the orchid is dead or doomed. Even without leaves, I bring my orchid back to life.

However, in order to save the plant, I must start reviving it immediately.

How to revive an orchid without leaves

To revive an orchid without leaves, assess the plant to discover other physical signs that may indicate other problems. Cut off damaged parts of the plant and repot the orchid in new growing medium. Finally, keep your orchid hydrated, expose it to adequate sunlight, and after a few weeks, fertilize it to encourage new foliage.

5 steps to reviving an orchid without leaves

Here’s a detailed look at the steps to follow to revive an orchid plant that has no leaves. These include:

1. Rate the orchid

Assessing the orchid not only helps me spot other problems with the plant, but also helps me determine if the plant has a chance of surviving.

This way I can save time and effort that I would have spent on a plant that would not survive.

During my assessment I need to review two key parts of my orchid. These are the stems and the roots.

Ideally, an orchid’s stem should be green so that the roots can send the energy needed to stimulate leaf growth up the stem.

If the trunk is scaly and yellow, the result is brittle, yellow branches that make it impossible to stimulate leaf growth.

I also need to examine the roots as they are responsible for encouraging new leaf growth.

If the roots are black, moldy, rotten, mushy, or crusty, it can reduce the plant’s chances of survival.

Typically, plants rely on leaves and roots for photosynthesis. Since my orchid has no leaves, it depends only on the roots.

Any damage to the roots will make it impossible for the plant to grow new leaves.

A combination of damaged roots, a damaged stem, and a lack of leaves makes leaf growth impossible.

In order to rejuvenate my orchid and encourage leaf growth, both the roots and the stem need to be in good condition.

2. Trim the orchid

Removing damaged parts of the orchid is important to reviving the plant. This applies when there are damaged roots.

It’s also a preventive measure when the plant is sick, as fungal build-up can easily damage other healthy parts of the orchid.

3. Repot the orchid

Whether my orchid has leaves or not, repotting should always be part of my care routine.

For orchids without leaves, repotting is beneficial as it helps create a new and healthier medium that should encourage new leaf growth.

According to the University of Florida, I should repot my orchid when it gets too big for the pot or when the media breaks.

Repotting will help the roots become more flexible and reduce the risk of root damage.

When I repot my orchid, I remove the old media, cut off any diseased or dead roots, and finally place the orchid in the new pot.

After repotting, I use clips to secure my orchid until it’s firmly established in the media.

4. Hydrate the orchid

One of the most important and fundamental steps in reviving an orchid is watering. It is important to ensure that the orchid does not dry out.

Since orchids depend on little moisture, I water my orchid immediately with lukewarm or lukewarm water.

Usually orchids need to be watered every four days to allow the plant to dry out a bit before the next watering. After a few weeks I can only water it once a week.

5. Give the orchid some light

It is important to ensure that the orchid gets enough sunlight.

While it doesn’t necessarily have to be in direct sunlight, placing it in a spot where it gets at least 10 to 15 hours of sunlight will do.

6. Apply fertilizer to the orchid

Usually, orchids should be fertilized once a week after watering. Do not fertilize repotted orchids for at least a few weeks.

For better results, use a fertilizer with a high concentration of nitrogen, as this will balance the potassium ratio and encourage leaf growth.

Pour the nitrogen solution as slowly as possible so as not to saturate the plant as this can kill it.

Using organic soil and fertilizers is also highly recommended as they are made from natural elements such as animal waste and manure and work better in soil.

Causes of leaf loss in orchids

The following are the reasons why an orchid can lose leaves:

Improper watering and feeding

If an orchid does not get enough water, the leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off.

Orchids that aren’t getting enough nutrition also tend to shed their leaves.

Not optimal conditions

Various factors such as humidity, temperature and light affect the leaves.

If these factors are not optimal, the leaves of the orchid may initially turn yellow and eventually fall off.

pests and insects

Several many insects and pests feed on orchids. These pests and insects can cause leaves to turn yellow, brown, wrinkle, and eventually fall off completely.

Diseases

Bacterial and fungal diseases, if left untreated, can cause an orchid to lose its leaves.

These diseases cause spots on the leaves, and these spots can lead to rot, which can completely eradicate the leaves.

Improper fertilization

Using the wrong fertilizer on an orchid can also cause leaves to fall off.

Frequently asked questions about reviving an orchid without leaves

Can orchids survive without leaves?

Orchids can live without leaves, but they grow slower compared to those that have leaves.

When do orchids bloom?

Most orchids flower at least once a year. Depending on the type of orchid one has, it can bloom at different times of the year. When in bloom, an orchid will typically continue to bloom for 6-10 weeks.

Conclusion

Even after you have followed all the steps above, there is still a chance that the orchid will not survive.

However, these steps are not only applicable when trying to revive a dying orchid. I can also incorporate them into your plant’s routine care to keep them healthy.

The reason for the death of orchids is often overwatering or the wrong potting soil. Overwatering or potting substrates that retain too much moisture promote conditions for root rot which causes orchid leaves to wilt, turn yellow and die.

However, orchids are sensitive to a number of environmental factors that can cause them to die off.

Here is a reference table of the most common reasons for orchid deaths:

Common reasons for orchid death: Explanation: Overwatering: Orchids should normally only be watered once a week. Watering too often causes root rot. Potting soil holds too much moisture: Orchids need aerated, well-draining potting soil like pine bark. Moss or regular potting soil can retain too much moisture around the roots or limit available oxygen, causing root rot. Underwatering: Orchid roots shrivel and leaves turn yellow with a wilted appearance from underwatering or overwatering. Orchids should be watered thoroughly every 7 days. Humidity is too low: Orchids are tropical plants that prefer a humidity level of at least 65%. If the air is too dry, orchid leaves and roots visibly shrivel up. Desiccating orchid from drafts, air currents and heat sources: Too much airflow or temperature fluctuations from cold drafts can cause orchid flowers to fall off and the orchid to turn yellow as a sign of stress. Too much sunlight: Orchids need partial sun or filtered light. Too much direct sunlight will result in burnt yellow/brown leaves. Too little sunlight: too much shade will result in poor growth and the orchid will have fewer flowers. Temperature too hot or too cold: Orchids grow best in a temperature range between 12°C and 23°C. Temperatures that are hotter or cooler for an extended period of time can cause the orchid to die off. Crown Rot: Crown rot is caused by fungal pathogens in stagnant water that build up in the crown of the plant from overhead watering, yellowing the leaves and stems, and eventually spreading around the orchid, killing the roots. Too much fertilizer can burn the roots: Orchids should have a special fertilizer to prevent the roots from burning, as regular houseplant fertilizer is too strong for the roots and can kill the orchid.

To save dying orchids, it’s important to prune away any diseased or rotting roots and some of their natural tropical forest canopy environment’s conditions of higher humidity, indirect light, well-draining pine bark-based potting mixes, and watering once a week.

Read on to learn what is causing your dying orchid and how to solve the problem…

1. Orchid death due to overwatering (root rot)

The most common reason for orchid death is overwatering. Orchids that are watered too often will develop root rot that turns the leaves yellow with a dying appearance. Usually orchids need to be watered once a week. Watering more than once a week is the reason your orchid will die.

Symptoms of overwatering and root rot:

Yellowing, drooping leaves.

. Roots rot with an unpleasant smell.

. The roots eventually die off, taking on a papery texture and white color.

Most of the types of orchids common in the home such as phalaenopsis or moth orchid as shown in the photo are epiphytes, meaning they actually grow on other trees and not in the ground in moist forests.

Phalaenopsis or moth orchids are by far the most commonly grown orchid species as houseplants

This means they are used to growing conditions that have excellent drainage with moderate rainfall and high humidity.

The reason the roots are so protruding from the potting medium is because the orchid is actually able to absorb water vapor from the surrounding moist air, rather than pulling moisture from the soil.

Watering the orchid too frequently will leave the potting soil too wet for the orchid roots, resulting in root rot.

Sometimes only individual roots appear to be rotting which then shrivel, die and become paper white and therefore unable to transport water and nutrients around the plant, causing the leaves to turn yellow and droop.

Roots of an overwatered orchid that have rotted from too much moisture and become paper white as they die.

How to save overwatered orchids with root rot…

The key to rescuing overwatered orchids with root rot is to reduce watering. Orchids should only be watered once a week in spring and summer and every 7-10 days in autumn and winter.

. Orchids should only be watered once a week in spring and summer and every 7-10 days in autumn and winter. Allow the substrate to dry out and examine the roots for signs of disease. Healthy roots will look green (and light grey) and plump to the touch. Orchid roots with root rot can appear brown and feel soft or rotten, and have an unpleasant odor. Eventually the roots will look paper white and die.

. Healthy roots will look green (and light grey) and plump to the touch. Orchid roots with root rot can appear brown and feel soft or rotten, and have an unpleasant odor. Eventually the roots will look paper white and die. Remove the orchid from the potting medium and trim any diseased or dying roots back to the base of the plant or to healthy growth. This will prevent the rot from spreading and dying off the entire orchid.

back to the base of the plant or to healthy growth. This will prevent the rot from spreading and dying off the entire orchid. Use sterile pruning shears or scissors to cut the roots, and always wipe the blades with a cloth soaked in alcohol sanitizer between each cut, as this can prevent the spread of fungal pathogens to otherwise healthy parts of the plant.

using an alcohol-soaked disinfectant between each cut, as this can prevent the spread of fungal pathogens to otherwise healthy parts of the plant. Any roots that are green or shriveled and gray but not rotten can be revived and still be able to function properly.

but not lazy can be revived and can still function properly. Once you have trimmed back the diseased roots, transplant your orchid into new pine bark based potting medium to improve drainage and either replant in a new pot (with drainage holes in the bottom) or clean the current pot with disinfectant and then replant it orchid.

and either replant them in a new pot (with drainage holes in the bottom) or clean the current pot with disinfectant and then replant your orchid. After transplanting, soak the orchid well in its new potting medium to alleviate the transplant shock, and water again after a week.

and water again after a week. Sometimes the orchid’s yellow leaves continue to die and eventually fall off. Orchids are actually capable of photosynthesis with their roots, so even if the leaves fall off, the orchid may be able to recover.

. Orchids are actually capable of photosynthesis with their roots, so even if the leaves fall off, the orchid may be able to recover. Mist the orchid every few days to maintain a humid microclimate that mimics the humid conditions of its natural environment and helps relieve stress after orchid root pruning.

Whether or not the orchid can recover really depends on how long it has been overwatered and how many roots are rotting or dying.

If almost all of the roots are dying or diseased, the orchid is unlikely to recover. The more healthy roots left, the better the orchid’s chances of healing.

The most important steps are cutting back the diseased or dying roots and transplanting into new pine-based growing medium, as this will prevent the spread of rot and the pine bark growing medium will drastically improve drainage, reducing the risk of root rot.

Always plant orchids in pots with drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to escape after watering. (Read my article on choosing the best pots for orchids).

2. Potting medium keeps too much moisture around the orchid roots

Orchids can turn yellow and wilt if planted in moss or soil based substrates. Tropical orchids naturally grow in trees rather than soil and prefer a potting mix based on aerated pine bark. Moss and soil retain too much water and prevent air circulation, causing the orchid to die of root rot.

The vast majority of orchids grown in our homes are tropical “moth” (Phalaenopsis) orchids that grow on other trees in tropical forests, so their roots are not rooted in the ground like most plants.

Therefore, soil or moss-based substrates do not allow adequate air or water vapor flow around the roots and retain too much moisture, promoting root rot conditions.

Both restriction of airflow (which prevents root respiration) around the roots and root rot from too much moisture will yellow and wilt orchid leaves. Flowers can also fall off as an early sign of stress.

This causes the orchid’s roots to go from a healthy and plump green or light gray color to shriveled gray roots that eventually die.

Healthy green orchid roots on the left and grey, diseased, dying roots on the right, as they were planted in a soil based potting mix rather than pine bark.

The fewer healthy roots the orchid has, the less water and nutrients they can absorb and transport around the plant, causing the leaves to wilt, turn yellow and die.

It’s important to note that orchid roots are unusual in that they are capable of photosynthesis, so a soil-based potting medium would also exclude light and limit their function.

However, pine bark is naturally an organic material that degrades over time into a compost-like structure.

Therefore, your orchid could be planted in the right potting soil, but the pine bark has decayed and no longer retains the same aerated and well-draining structure, causing the leaves to wilt and turn yellow due to root rot.

How to save orchids that are turning yellow and wilting

Remove the orchid from its pot and carefully remove the moss or soil around the roots and examine for signs of disease or stress. Healthy roots appear green or light gray and plump to the touch. Unhealthy roots are thin, shriveled, and may be yellow, brown, or papery gray.

. Healthy roots appear green or light gray and plump to the touch. Unhealthy roots are thin, shriveled, and may be yellow, brown, or papery gray. Using sterile pruning shears or scissors, trim any unhealthy diseased roots back to the base, wiping the blades between cuts with a cloth soaked in disinfectant to prevent the potential spread of a fungal disease to otherwise healthy growth.

to prevent the potential spread of a fungal disease to otherwise healthy growth. Replace the potting soil with brand new pine bark potting medium made specifically for orchids. The individual pieces of pine bark are large enough to allow more air to circulate and excess water to drain efficiently. The pieces of pine bark absorb some water which then evaporates creating the water vapor from which the orchid absorbs moisture, replicating the conditions of its natural environment.

If there are still enough healthy, turgid roots left, the orchid can recover even if the leaves are yellowing and falling off.

Since orchid roots are capable of photosynthesis (which is usually the function of the leaves), the plant can live and revive even without leaves. Within a few weeks, new leaves should emerge from the base of the plant.

With new potting soil and the right care, your orchid has the best chance of recovering.

3. Orchid deaths due to under-watering

If the orchid is not watered often enough or too little, the orchid’s roots cannot absorb the moisture or water vapor they need, causing the roots to die and the orchid’s leaves to droop and turn yellow.

The advice “orchids don’t need a lot of water” is sometimes misunderstood by growers to mean that orchids should only be watered with a little water.

If you water orchids too lightly, only the top inches of the potting medium will be wet and the water will not reach the roots deeper in the medium.

This leads to drought stress and causes the roots to shrivel and die without access to water. If there are fewer healthy roots, less water and nutrients will be absorbed, causing the leaves to droop and turn yellow.

Orchids should be watered once a week with a generous water bath in spring and summer to allow excess water to drip off the bottom of the pot, and watered every 7-10 days in fall and winter when plant growth is slowing due to fewer hours of light.

If you water your orchids less than once every 7 days, then your orchid is submerged and this is causing the orchid leaves to turn yellow and the plant to die.

(Read my article on how often to water orchids).

How to save submerged, drooping and yellowing orchids

Always water orchids with a generous water bath and not light watering. This ensures moisture can reach the roots deep in the pot and not just the roots on the surface. This keeps the roots healthy, plump, and functional, allowing them to carry moisture and nutrients around the orchid instead of causing the leaves to yellow and wilt.

. This ensures moisture can reach the roots deep in the pot and not just the roots on the surface. This keeps the roots healthy, plump, and functional, allowing them to move moisture and nutrients around the orchid instead of the and . Underwater roots tend to shrink as the plant uses up its stored moisture reserves. This means that unhealthy shriveled roots can revive when watered with some really good spring water. Once the orchid roots can absorb water, they can replenish their moisture reserves and return to a plump texture.

. That means they are unhealthy if they are watered with a really good soaking water. Once the orchid roots can absorb water, they can replenish their moisture reserves and return to a plump texture. Water your orchids once every 7 days in spring and summer to avoid drought stress, and once every 7-10 days in fall and winter. Watering with this frequency is key to avoiding drought stress and saving your orchid. Don’t overcompensate and water more often than once a week as one extreme to the other will likely cause root rot.

. Watering with this frequency is key to avoiding drought stress and saving your orchid. Don’t overcompensate and water more often than once a week as one extreme to the other will likely cause root rot. Mist your orchids every day while they are recovering and then once every 2 or 3 days depending on the humidity of your climate and the room you are keeping the orchid in (bathrooms and kitchens tend to have higher humidity levels, eh corresponds to the orchid). .

depending on the humidity of your climate and the room you are keeping the orchid in (bathrooms and kitchens tend to have higher humidity, which suits the orchid). Misting your orchid mimics the higher humidity of the orchids’ native tropical forest environment, which helps reduce water loss (transpiration) from the leaves to relieve drought stress.

which helps reduce water loss (transpiration) from the leaves to relieve drought stress. Make sure your orchid is in a room that is consistently within a temperature range of 12°C (55°F) at night and a maximum of 23°C (75°F) during the day, as excessive heat from the indoor heater can increase the temperature Evaporation from the soil and increase water loss from the leaves and increase drought stress for your orchid.

55°F (12°C) at night and a maximum daytime temperature of 75°F (23°C) as excess heat from indoor heating can increase the rate of evaporation from the soil and water loss from the leaves and worsen the drought stress for your orchid. Keep orchids away from drafts or air conditioning, as the dry air strips moisture from the leaves, soil, and roots, creating conditions contrary to their natural, humid, tropical environment.

With proper care, the orchid can be saved. However, the yellowed leaves may fall off depending on the severity of the drought stress and some of the roots may not recover.

If possible, cut off dead roots with sharp, sterile scissors if they are accessible.

However, if they are deep in the orchid pot, it is often better to leave it as roots that die from underwatering are not diseased (as overwatered orchid roots can be) but have shriveled and died from drought stress.

That way you don’t have to disturb the healthy remaining roots too much, giving the plant a better chance of recovery.

The orchid should show signs of new growth over the following weeks or during the fall or winter until the following spring.

(Read my article on how to tell if an orchid is over- or under-watered).

4. Low humidity and air currents (flowers and buds fall off)

Most household orchids are moth orchids native to tropical forests with a typical humidity of 60-70%. Climates with low humidity and air conditioning drafts can strip moisture from orchid leaves, causing them to lose too much water, leading to orchid death.

Humidity levels inside our homes are almost always much lower than outside and lower than the 60-70% humidity level that moth orchids are adapted to.

Therefore, this dry air increases the water loss from the leaves, dries out the soil too quickly and causes the orchid roots to deplete their moisture reserves and shrink. This can also cause the leaves to yellow, the orchid to droop, and the flowers or flower buds to fall off.

Air conditioning drafts or air currents from indoor heaters can also cause orchids to shrink and die.

How to save orchids dying at low humidity

The key to rescuing orchids that drop flowers and die in low humidity conditions is to mimic the conditions of the orchids’ natural environment. Mist the orchid leaves and roots once a day to prevent further excessive water loss from the foliage and place your orchid away from air currents and drafty areas.

Orchids are sensitive to low humidity and the first sign of stress is often the shedding of their flowers or the development of flower buds.

Orchids often do well in bathrooms or kitchens, as they tend to have much higher humidity levels than other rooms in the house. However, they can grow very well if sprayed frequently.

In climates with particularly low humidity, it may be necessary to spray orchids every day to restore their preferred conditions.

Mist both the leaves and any roots that protrude from the potting medium, as the roots can absorb moisture from water vapor, which can help relieve stress.

Make sure the orchid is not exposed to drafts from air conditioners or frequently opened doors to maintain the right humidity level for your orchids and to prevent dry air from stripping moisture.

Once the orchid is in the right environment with the right humidity, it can recover over the following weeks.

5. Too much or too little sunlight

Orchid leaves are very sensitive to light and can turn yellow or brown when exposed to direct sunlight. Orchids are adapted to the forest canopy and therefore need partial sun or filtered light indoors to provide enough sun to bloom while protecting the leaves from burning.

Placing your orchid on a window sill with direct sunlight can burn the leaves, which can prevent the orchid from flowering or cause flowers and flower buds to fall off and cause symptoms similar to drought stress, as the extra heat and light will dry out orchid roots and leaves.

If the orchid is in a room that gets particularly little light, the orchid will usually show far fewer flowers and may exhibit stunted growth.

The best spot for orchids is an area with bright, indirect light or an area with filtered light, as this reflects the light intensity typically encountered in the home environment and ensures the orchid has enough light to bloom.

If the leaves turn a brown or yellow color, the specific leaves are unlikely to recover and usually turn brown before dropping. Do not try to forcefully pluck off a dying leaf, as this can create an unnecessary wound where infection can do more damage to the plant.

Place the orchid in an area with bright, indirect light, spray the foliage and water thoroughly once a week and the orchid should be able to recover, with new leaves growing from the base of the plant throughout spring and summer.

6. Hot and cold temperatures – dying orchids

Moth orchids require a temperature range of 12°C (55°F) at night and a maximum daytime temperature of 23°C (75°F). If orchids are exposed to temperatures outside of this range, the orchid may drop flowers, stop growing, turn yellow, and droop with a dying appearance.

In addition to being sensitive to temperature extremes, orchids are particularly sensitive to sudden changes in temperature, which can be caused by the opening and closing of an outside door that lets in all the cold air, causing the temperature to suddenly drop.

Fortunately, 55°F (12°C) and 75°F (23°C) are usually within room temperature limits, so this is often not the problem.

However, it is common for individual orchid leaves to die off if the orchid is on a window sill and the leaves come in contact with a cold window frame, which can result in the leaf turning brown or yellow.

Also, orchids that are too close to heat sources in the home often drop their flowers or develop flower buds when the temperature rises sharply.

The only real solution to this is to move your orchid to a room that is in the right temperature range and is not subject to constant drafts or heat, which can alter the temperature significantly.

Damaged leaves may die and fall off, but new leaves may emerge during the main growing season. If excessive heat was the problem, look for signs of drought stress as increased temperatures are likely to dehydrate the orchid much more quickly.

Spray the leaves with mist and give the orchid a good bath to help it recover.

7. Causes of orchid death – crown rot

Orchid leaves can form a funnel shape around the stems, which collects water and can prevent it from draining away. The standing water contained in the funnel can cause crown rot, which causes the orchid’s leaves and stems to turn yellow and wilt with a dying appearance.

This doesn’t necessarily happen with every orchid, but often the way the leaves are shaped and arranged can cause water to pool around the crown of the orchid.

In the Phalaenopsis Orchid’s natural environment on trees, it usually grows at an angle of around 45°, which allows water to safely drain away from the crown rather than being trapped by the leaves

In the home environment, orchids are grown vertically and watering overhead on the foliage directs the water onto the crown of the orchid without a chance to drain effectively.

The easiest way to avoid this is to water directly onto the potting medium at the base of the plant, rather than overhead onto the leaves.

If you accidentally pour water on the leaves and it pools in the crown, simply use a hair dryer on a cool setting to dry out the crown.

Rescuing an orchid with crown rot can be very difficult as the fungal pathogens responsible for the disease can spread to other organs of the plant. However, with some drastic measures, there is a chance that she can be saved.

Since rescuing an orchid with crown rot is a tricky, visual process, I recommend watching the video for a visual guide on how to save orchids with crown rot:

8. Too much or too little fertilizer – dying orchids

Orchid roots are very delicate and can burn easily if you apply a regular houseplant fertilizer or if you use fertilizer too often or in too high a concentration, causing the roots to turn dark brown or black depending on the severity of the root burn.

You should always use a specific orchid fertilizer as this is formulated to provide the orchid with the right balance of nutrients at the right concentration.

Orchid Fertilizer contains all the nutrients orchids need in one concentration to support healthy growth and flowering and prevent root burn.

If the roots are only slightly damaged and discolored, you can save the orchid by leaving the orchid in a basin of water for about 10 minutes or running the tap over the potting soil to dilute the excess salts from the fertilizer that are causing the damage .

For more severe root burns, it is necessary to remove the orchid from the pot and cut off any dead or dying roots from the orchid using sterile scissors or secateurs. Repot your orchid with new pine bark based potting soil as the old potting soil is likely to have a high concentration of harmful salts from fertilizer use.

If there are enough viable, healthy green (or light gray) roots that are firm to the touch, the orchid has a good chance of being saved. However, if most of the roots are thin, papery and dying, it can be difficult to save the orchid.

After repotting, water the orchid thoroughly and make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent root rot.

The central theses:

Like most plants, Phalaenopsis orchids go through a normal growth, flowering, and dormant cycle before beginning the cycle again. Typically, Phalaenopsis orchids put out a spike and flower in the fall or winter, although orchid growers are now planning growth cycles to allow for the purchase of flowering orchids year-round.

Relax

Flowering can last from one to three months, after which the plant goes into a dormant or dormant phase. During this time, it stores energy for the next flowering period. During an orchid’s dormant period, flowers will fall off the stem and the stem may shrivel and turn gray or brown. The leaves of the orchid gradually lose their light green luster and erect posture, becoming dull and flattening out around the base of the orchid. At this point, many new Phalaenopsis Orchid owners think their plant has died and regrettably discard it.

Do not give up

If only they had persevered, within a few months this seemingly lifeless orchid would have sprouted a new spike and bloomed again in another spectacular display – and it would have done so again and again for years to come!

Instead of throwing away your Phalaenopsis orchid when it enters its dormant phase, encourage rebloom by following these five simple orchid care steps:

Continue with weekly watering. Fertilize your orchid every two weeks or at least once a month with a half-strength balanced houseplant fertilizer. Do not water during the fertilizing weeks. Move your orchid to an area with a slightly cooler temperature. Make sure your orchid gets plenty of indirect sunlight. Be patient!

Follow these tips to learn how some simple adjustments can help trigger orchid blooms again.