Spirit Level Straight Edge? All Answers

Straight edges and cut guides

Check out Johnson Level straight edges and cuts.

A ruler is a cutting guide tool for copying a straight line from one place to another or checking the straightness of a line already drawn. A straight edge with evenly spaced markings is called a ruler. A Johnson Level ruler is not only a great way to mark, test or transcribe perfectly straight lines, it is also an efficient way to measure short distances (96 inches or less or 8 feet). Johnson Level rulers and straightedges are graduated and length marked for easy use in the building process.

How to read a straight edge

Straight edges typically have 1/16″ increments.

Find the right length (size) of tool for the job. While a 72-inch ruler could be used to measure or draw a 4-inch line, it makes more sense to use a shorter cutting guide tool. Using a 12 inch ruler (standard foot ruler) is easier and faster because the foot ruler is designed for lengths of 12 inches and under. Pay attention to the markings on the straightedge or ruler. The larger the mark, the larger the increment and vice versa. On a standard 12 inch ruler, the largest markings show a full inch. Smaller marks between the inch marks indicate fractions of an inch, with the fraction size being directly proportional to the size of the mark. For example, the ½ inch mark (shown below at right) is shorter than the inch mark. The number of marks on a ruler or ruler depends on how small an inch is broken down. A ruler’s markings move from left to right, as if you were reading a book. This means that on a standard foot ruler there is 1 inch on the left edge and 12 inches on the right edge. Keep this in mind when using a cutting guide tool.

How is a ruler different from a straight edge?

Look along the edges of the straight edge. If there are markings around the edges that indicate units of measurement, then it is a ruler. If there are no marks, it’s just a straight edge. A ruler can be used to measure and mark straight lines. A straight edge won’t help you when measuring, but most are more durable than rulers, making them a superior tool for marking straight lines. In most cases, rulers can act as a straight edge.

How to use a straight edge

Use a straight edge to mark straight lines and as a cutting guide. Determine where to make your cut. Mark one edge of the board the length you want and mark the other edge the same length (or different if you want an angled cut). Align each mark to one side of the straight edge. Drag the pencil along the straight edge. Repeat as needed to ensure the line is visible. You’ll have a perfectly straight line to cut along. You can use the straightedge as a guide for your table saw (use clamps to secure the straightedge at the ends).

How to use a straight edge with a circular saw

Suppose you’ve drawn a straight line and are ready to make a cut. Align your circular saw blade along the line, but do not turn the saw on yet. Make a mark where the saw base ends on the wood along the edge of the board. Measure the distance from your cutting line to where you marked the end of the base board. Go to the other side of the board. Use a construction square to make a mark at the same distance as close to the edge as possible. Use your straightedge to mark the baseplate line. Align the straight edge along the new baseplate line. If using an aluminum or metal ruler, use C-clamps to attach the ruler to each end of the board. If you are using a wood guide as a straight edge (1×4 or 2×4) you can either use C-Clamps or screw the guide directly into the board to be cut – unless you plan on using the rest of the board. When the straightedge is secure, align the blade with the cutting line and make sure the straightedge is in place. Make the cut.

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Refer to the Johnson Level Tool Usage Guide for proper tool usage information.

Check out Johnson Level straight edges and cuts.

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A spirit level is an incredibly useful tool to have around the house, especially a spirit level that doubles as a ruler for marking lines on a project piece. The little air bubble in a spirit level helps you figure out how to make your project pieces perfectly horizontal or perfectly vertical depending on where the air appears in the spirit level bubble.

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How a spirit level works

A bubble level, also known as a bubble level, is an old-school bubble level with small vials of liquid built into the tool. This liquid is often clear or slightly tinted to make the air bubble within easier to see. Parallel lines drawn on the vial show you the target area for the air bubble; If the bubble sits perfectly between the lines, the plane you are measuring is level.

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In some cases, the spirit level can be just a small, sealed disk containing liquid and an air bubble. This spirit level works much like the others, except instead of two lines on a vial, the target area is a small circle painted on the center of the disc. This type of bubble level comes in handy in an emergency as it fits easily in a pocket and takes up little more room than a few stacked quarters. All in all, any spirit level with a liquid vial and an air bladder works the same way, but the spirit level’s external shape and size can vary widely, making it better suited to some projects than others.

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How to use a level

A straight edge spirit level, such as A tool such as a carpenter’s scale is a great learning tool as this perfectly straight edge will help ensure you get a good reading on a flat surface. Place the spirit level on one of its firm, smooth sides on a horizontal surface that you want to check, such as a floor. B. a desk or a larger device with adjustable feet. The horizontal ampoule is the one to be read. Raise one end of the spirit level and watch the air bubble move. Then set the spirit level down and lift the other end. Observe the air bubble again. This gives you an idea of ​​how the level works, because if the item you are checking is too far from the level, the bubble will be far from its target area between the lines.

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Put the spirit level back on the desk and look at the air bubble. If it’s perfectly between the finish lines, the desktop is level. If it looks wrong, lift one end or the other until the bubble is seated in the target zone. For example, if you raised the right end to achieve your goal, the right side of the desk needs to be higher. Gradually raise (or tuck under, just for experimentation) the desk feet on the right hand side until the air bubble hits its target.

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To use a spirit level vertically, hold the spirit level with its edge level against a vertical surface, such as a desk. B. the side of a fence post. The bubble to read (if the level has more than one) is the one that currently looks horizontal. Slightly move the top or bottom of the spirit level to move the bubble to the centered target zone. If it already exists, the object in question is already vertical; If not, the bubble will show you how much to adjust the object to make it perfectly vertical.

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Using a laser level

Some laser levels also have built-in bubble levels; This will ensure the tool is level. Other models have a self-leveling feature, so find out how to use your specific model if you don’t see a bubble level on it. Although different laser levels are used on different projects, some need to be set up on a tripod or a flat surface like a table. Set it up and level it to the desired height e.g. B. when determining the bottom edge of a large, framed piece of art for the wall.

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If the tool is flat, the ray it projects is flat too, and you’re done. For example, some smaller laser levels use suction to stick to walls, but they work in the same basic way.

Nothing separates professional painters from beginners quite like the quality of the lines they paint. While it can be difficult for novice painters to create straight lines on ceilings or baseboards, experienced painters are able to reproduce perfectly straight lines every time.

Whether you’re starting a painting project or want to brush up on your skills, you’ve come to the right place. Here are eleven tips to help you paint perfect lines.

How to draw a straight line

1. Use an angled brush

If you’re trying to paint a straight line with just a brush, make sure it’s an angled brush. Rounded-tipped brushes cannot create the same straight lines as angled brushes.

2. Don’t put too much paint on the brush

If you’re just using an angled brush, be careful not to overload the brush with paint as there is no safety net when paint starts to run.

3. Draw the lines

Using just a brush to create a straight line without a baseboard, ceiling, or other reference line can result in disastrous squiggly lines. Use a ruler or yardstick to lightly trace the line with a pencil instead of just staring at it.

Gently paint along the line with the angled brush. When you’re done painting and the paint has dried, gently use an eraser to erase any visible pencil marks.

4. Use an edge cutter

Another option you have in your brush belt is an edge cutter. Using an edger is a great way to cut at a 90 degree angle.

To use an edger, simply load the square pad with paint and run the edger’s wheels over the surface.

5. Keep the edge clean

When using an edge cutter, it is important that the wheels do not get any paint. This means that when loading the paint onto the edger you have to be careful not to apply too much lest it drip.

6. Use a painter’s shield

If you’re spray-painting a wall, a paint shield is your best friend. While you still need to cut in before spraying, a shield keeps overspray from ruining your lines.

7. Use painters tape

The final tool in your arsenal is painter’s tape. Although it requires some setup, painter’s tape is the most effective method for painters to create straight lines.

Whether you’re cutting or drawing an isolated line, painter’s tape can create a straight line on almost any surface.

Although blue tape works best on delicate interior walls, you may want to use green painter’s tape if you plan to paint a rough, uneven surface or paint outdoors.

Buy blue painter’s tape

8. Let paint dry

An important tip for using painter’s tape to create straight lines is to allow the paint to dry completely before attempting to remove the tape.

If the paint is still wet, the tape will not remove cleanly, potentially tearing some of the paint with you.

9. Place Caulk on the tape

A popular trick when using painters tape is caulking along the edge of the tape. This prevents paint from seeping under the paint, especially on uneven surfaces.

Simply apply a very thin coat of clear or white (depending on wall color) grout and then over it. This is a case where you want to remove the tape before the paint or caulk dries.

10. Put the tape on

If you’re using multiple pieces of painter’s tape to create your lines, be sure to start on one side and work your way down by placing the pieces of tape on top of each other.

Then when it comes time to remove the tape, start peeling off the first strip you placed and the rest should immediately come off.

11. Check your work

Perhaps the most important step you can take when painting is to check your work. If the line or edge you were working on didn’t come out as sharp as you hoped, try again!

It might be frustrating to go back and redo the work, but touch-ups are the most important part of the painting process. Quality repairs separate professionals from amateurs.

Use quality tools and consumables

Invest in tools and products you can trust to get the job done. No matter how careful or skillful you are, if your brush has frayed fibers, your tape is leaking paint, or your edger isn’t painting evenly, you won’t be able to paint perfectly straight lines.

Here at TapeManBlue, high performance painter’s tape is what we do best. If you’re looking to achieve perfectly straight lines on your next painting project, check out our Made in the USA Blue Painter’s Tape.

Not only is our tape trusted to give you the best results for your painting projects, it’s also available at a price that will keep your project on budget. With these simple tips and quality materials, you’ll be painting straighter lines in no time!

Tool for drawing straight lines or checking their straightness or flatness

For the subculture, see Straight Edge

A ruler or straight edge is a tool used for drawing straight lines or checking their straightness. When it has markings evenly spaced along its length, it is usually called a ruler.

Rulers are used in the automotive and machining industries to check the flatness of machined mating surfaces.

True straightness can in some cases be verified by using a line laser as an optical ruler: it can illuminate an exactly straight line on a flat surface such as the edge of a board or shelf.

A pair of straightedges, called curling sticks, are used in woodworking to make warping of pieces of wood more noticeable.

Three straight edges can be used to self-test and calibrate to some extent, however this method does not control twist. To accurately calibrate a straightedge, a straightedge must be used.[1]

Compass and ruler construction[ edit ]

An idealized ruler is used in compass and ruler constructions in plane geometry.

It may be used:

Given two points to draw the line connecting them

Given a point and a circle to draw a tangent

Given two circles to draw one of their common tangents

Or one of the other numerous geometric constructions

The idealized ruler is:

Infinitely long

Infinitely thin (i.e. point width)

It is always assumed that there are no graduations or grades or the ability to mark

Can be aligned to two points with infinite precision to draw a line through them

It must not be marked or used in conjunction with the compass to transfer the length of one segment to another.

All compass and ruler constructions can be done without a ruler. That is, using only a compass, it is possible to find the intersection of two lines, on each of which two points are given, and to find the tangent points to circles. However, it is not possible to carry out all constructions using only a ruler. It’s possible to do them with just a ruler if you have a circle and its center.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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Spirit levels, also known as spirit levels, are of course among the most useful tools for leveling and aligning various construction projects.

However, what many people don’t realize is that spirit levels themselves need to be calibrated and checked for accuracy. Let’s talk about why this is the case and how to do it.

Can a spirit level be wrong?

The simple fact is that yes, bubble levels can be wrong. Sure, they usually come out of the box as they’re generally calibrated from the start. However, like many other measuring tools on the market, bubble levels can become less accurate over time, or in other words, they go bad.

Of course, if a spirit level is wrong, you will run into big problems, especially on large construction projects where different surfaces need to be absolutely flat in order to meet with great precision.

Just because the spirit level is no longer accurate doesn’t mean you have to throw it away. Bubble levels can be calibrated, which means that if your bubble level becomes inaccurate, you can do something about it. An important side note: some spirit levels may not be calibrated out of the box and may need to be calibrated before first use.

How to tell if your spirit level is inaccurate

OK, what you’re probably wondering here is how do you actually tell if your bubble level is inaccurate. Finally, a spirit level is a tool for measuring leveling accuracy. So how do you measure the accuracy of a measuring tool? It’s quite a mystery indeed, but it’s entirely possible to do so. Let’s walk through step by step how to tell if your bubble level is inaccurate.

Remember that the following method of measuring the accuracy of your bubble level can be used for both vertical and horizontal leveling. Remember that a good bubble level can be used to level both walls and floors, which means it will have small bottles filled with water and air to measure both floor height and wall plumb.

The methods of determining if your spirit level is accurate both vertically and horizontally are the same, with the only difference being that when you look at accuracy for vertical plumb, you hold the spirit level vertically against a wall or pole and check horizontal accuracy , you must place it on a flat, horizontal surface.

With that out of the way, here is the process of checking accuracy:

Hold the spirit level against a flat wall or place it on a flat surface. Note where along the wall, floor, or surface the spirit level bubble is located. Look at the vial and make a note of where the bubble is (make sure you are looking at the correct vial). Rotate the spirit level 180 degrees, or in other words, just flip it over. If the spirit level is accurate, the bubble in the spirit level will be in exactly the same position regardless of whether the spirit level is pointing one way or the other. If the bubble is not in the same position within the spirit level in both directions, then your spirit level is inaccurate.

Do digital spirit levels need to be calibrated?

Although many think that digital levels are absolutely perfect because of the technology they use, the fact is that they are not always perfect and yes, sometimes they do need to be calibrated.

Digital spirit levels should always come out of the box fully calibrated so you don’t need to calibrate them when you buy them, but they can become inaccurate over time. Calibrating a digital level involves using the automatic calibration feature they come with.

Exactly how these calibration functions work depends on the exact model and brand of digital level, so we will not explain this. However, if you have a digital level and need to calibrate it, then all you really need to do is read the manual. Realistically, it should only be two or three steps.

How to calibrate a spirit level

What we want to do now is give you a step-by-step guide on how to calibrate this manual spirit level. It is actually quite simple.

Step 1: Find a flat surface

OK, before you begin, the big trick here is that in order to calibrate your spirit level, you must have a surface that is already 100% flat. If the surface you are using to calibrate your level is not itself flat, you will not be able to calibrate the level accurately. In any case, it is imperative that you find a surface that you are 100% sure is already leveled.

Step 2: Put on the spirit level

When you find the flat surface, place the spirit level on that surface. Now you need to make a note of exactly where in the wild the bubble rests. If the bubble is not exactly in the center of the spirit level, you know the spirit level is inaccurate.

Again, remember that the only way to tell if the level is inaccurate is by looking at the bubble in the vial when the surface underneath is already 100% flat. It is very important for us to emphasize that you cannot calibrate a spirit level if the surface you are using to calibrate is not itself flat.

Step 3: Adjust the screws

On your spirit level you will see a small screw next to each of the vials. These are the calibration screws used to calibrate the spirit level. So remember that the underlying surface must be perfectly flat, if the bubble is off center in the vial, adjust the screw until the bubble is perfectly centered between the two lines in the vial.

Once you have adjusted the screws so that the bubble is in the middle of these two lines, your spirit level is calibrated.

Mistakes to avoid, tips & tricks

Finally, let us give you a few quick tips to help make your life a little easier:

While you really shouldn’t have to, it’s a good idea to check your spirit level for accuracy right away. You don’t want to use a new level to build something only to find out it was inaccurate all along.

When calibrating a spirit level, always follow the owner’s manual as not all have these calibration screws. With a really low bubble level, you might not be able to calibrate it at all.

The simple fact here is that you often get what you pay for, so we don’t recommend going for the cheapest option. A cheap spirit level is far more likely to be inaccurate to begin with.

summary

The bottom line here is that you need to make sure your spirit level is properly calibrated at all times. If this is not the case, everything you build will end up crooked and wobbly.

Information about the spirit level

View all Johnson Level Spirit Levels and Bubble Levels.

A spirit level is a tool used to indicate how parallel (level) or perpendicular (perpendicular) a surface is relative to the earth. A spirit level gets its name from the spirit solution in the spirit levels.

Typically, the vials in a spirit level are yellowish-green in color with additives for UV protection and maximum performance in temperatures from -20 degrees F to 130 degrees F. The best spirit level is accurate to plus or minus 0.5 millimeters/meter, or 0.005 inch/inch or 0.029 degrees. The next displayed accuracy level is 0.75 mm/m or 0.043 degrees. The bubble bodies of a bubble level, also called a bubble level, can be shaped like a barrel, like a rectangular block, or even curved, banana-shaped to measure inclination in fractions per foot division; and are now mostly made of acrylic instead of glass originally.

How to read a spirit level

Locate the bottom edge of the layer. This rests on the surface you wish to level. Some models feature magnetic edges that “stick” to metal surfaces for easy use. Examine the body of the level and look for gripping points where you won’t be blocking the vials with your hands. Most tiers have a hole in at least one end for hanging above your workbench. The bubble level in the center of the level will help you find true horizontal. Tube vials at the ends find true vertical. On many torpedo levels and other specialized levels there is an angled tube bubble to find the level at 45°. If your level has an electronic display, see our guide to using a digital electronic level.

How to use a spirit level

Clean the spirit level and remove any debris and dirt from the edges. Mark a line along the bottom edge on the wall. Flip the layer so the bottom becomes the top. Lay the new top edge along the marked line. If the bubble is centered, your spirit level is accurate. If not, it’s defective. Place the spirit level on the surface of the object for which you want to find the true horizontal (the “horizon”). Make sure that the spirit tube runs parallel to the object. Let the bubble float to the top of the spirit tube. Bring your eyes to the level of the spirit tube. To get an accurate reading, close one eye. Notice where the bubble is in the spirit tube. If it’s centered between the lines on the pipe, your object is level. If the bubble is to the right of the lines, your object will slope down from right to left. If the bubble is to the left of the lines, your object will slope down from left to right. To find true vertical or “plumb”, repeat the same process vertically.

How to check a bubble level for accuracy

Place the spirit level on a flat surface. Make a mark at the end of the level. Make another mark on the side of the spirit level, under the vial in the center. Read the position of the bubble. Rotate the spirit level 180° end to end and align the spirit level with your marks. Take another reading. If the level is accurate, the bubble will be in the same position for both readings. To test the vertical bubble, perform the same procedure against a flat vertical surface.

How to level a scope with a bubble level

Make sure your rifle is unloaded. Place the rifle in a vise, gun mount, or other holder to hold the rifle securely. Place a bubble level on a flat part of the gun. If you have a second spirit level, use it on another flat part, e.g. B. on the breech, above the chamber or on the rail. Tighten the rifle when you reach the level. Place the scope in the rings. Tighten the scope firmly, but loose enough to slide it slightly. Place a spirit level on the scope and align the scope horizontally. Turn the spirit level parallel to the scope and level it vertically. Your scope is now level.

How spirit levels are made

Bubble levels are made from a variety of materials including aluminum, plastic, wood, cast iron, and composites. Level users are categorized as professional contractors and handymen, such as: B. carpenters, masons, frame builders, electricians, plumbers and woodworkers; and do-it-yourselfers, such as B. Homeowners.

Types of Spirit Levels

There are a variety of levels styles for tradespeople and contractors to choose from, the most popular being I-beam levels (the level frame has an “I” shape at the end), box levels (the level frame is a rectangle shape) and torpedo levels (slightly larger than pocket size, 9″ to 12″ 3 vial levels). Other types of spirit levels include: dash levels (individual spirit levels with a hook at hand on a string), cross levels (pocket-sized; two spirit levels at right angles), circular spirit levels (surface spirit levels), pocket spirit levels (pen-shaped with a magnetic tip), and post spirit levels (used around two sides of a post to measure spirit level and plumb).

Check out the following guides on specialty spirit levels:

In addition to style and material, there are other functional spirit level features such as magnetism, bubble type, and durability. Some spirit levels are magnetic and are ideal for structures with metal studs or for plumbers or electricians working on pipes and wires. Magnetic strength versus weight of a spirit level is an important quality test; Rare earth magnets are the strongest. Some spirit levels have interchangeable bubbles, such as B. I-Beam vials with barrel-shaped vials embedded in the frame, or wooden vials with banana-shaped vials. Block bubbles on beam balances are machine set and cannot be interchanged with the same accuracy as provided at the factory. Spirit levels are also made more durable by adding vial covers to protect the vials and end caps to withstand the shock of dropping. Some spirit levels have handles that are primarily for convenience.

For more practical instructions on how to use the level correctly, refer to the Johnson Level manual.

View all Johnson Level Spirit Levels and Bubble Levels.

48-inch build level head-to-head comparison

Who makes the best build levels? In this head-to-head race, we’ll put multiple 48″ build stages to the test to see who comes out on top!

One of the most basic tools that all trades need in construction is a spirit level. Whether you’re building something vertical and level or on an incline, the only way to check the incline of a surface is with some sort of bubble level. 48″ construction spirit levels are the most commonly used size of level in the construction industry, so we reached out to some of the leading brands and asked them to join our head-to-head comparison. For this comparative article, we evaluated 7 different spirit levels from 4 different manufacturers. Manufacturers included:

Empire level

Irwin tools

Stabila

Stanley

While there are certainly many other level manufacturers to choose from, we think this is a great choice of level. In the last few months we have used these spirit levels on construction sites and tested them in the workshop. The evaluation and testing was done by three members of the Tool Box Buzz crew, including myself, Rob Robillard, and Jeff Williams. This assessment consists of the following sections:

Features and Specifications

Fit, finish and quality

Vial Visibility

strength test

durability test

accuracy

cost value

48 inch construction level – the lineup

The seven tiers we tested included the following (in alphabetical order):

Empire Level – e75 Series 48″ TRUE BLUE® Box Level – Model E75.48

Empire Level -e95 Series 48″ TRUE BLUE® UltraView™ LED Box Level – Model E95.48

IRWIN Tools – 2000 Box Beam Level – Model 1794077

IRWIN Tools – 2500 Box Beam Level – Model 1794067

Stabila – Heavy Duty Level Type 196 – Model 37448

Stabila – R-Beam Type 300 – Model 41048

Stanley – 48 in FATMAX® Premium Box Beam with Hook – Model FMHT42400

Six of the layers are box layers and one is a “beam” layer (which we think is still a box).

Empire e75 Series TRUE BLUE® Box Level Features

Reinforced vial locking system secures acrylic block vials for durability

Tool-less removable, shock-absorbing end caps provide superior protection and snapping performance

Precision milled edges for guaranteed accuracy

Surface grippers prevent the spirit level from slipping on flat or sloping surfaces

Ergonomic grip zones improve comfort and portability (48″+ only)

High-contrast e-BAND™ vials highlight the edge of the blister

The 300° viewing window maximizes the field of view

Hanging hole for easy storage

Powerful rare earth magnets provide excellent holding power (magnetic models only)

.0005″/inch accuracy in all work positions

$50

Limited Lifetime Warranty

Empire Level -e95 Series 48″ TRUE BLUE® UltraView™ LED Box Level Features

Concentrated surround dual LEDs and UV-activated optical brightener ensure excellent ampoule visibility

High-contrast e-BAND™ vials highlight the edge of the blister

Reinforced vial locking system secures acrylic block vials for durability

The IP54 degree of protection protects the level from dust and water

Powerful rare earth magnets provide excellent holding power (magnetic models only)

Tool-less removable, shock-absorbing end caps provide superior protection and snapping performance

High-contrast vial rims improve vial visibility

Precision milled edges for guaranteed accuracy

Surface grippers prevent the spirit level from slipping on flat or sloping surfaces

2x longer battery life – up to 32 hours. (2) AA batteries included

Auto shut-off saves battery life by turning off the LEDs after two minutes

.0005″/inch accuracy in all work positions

e-BAND™ high-impact acrylic block vials offer excellent durability

LEDs flash when the battery is low

Ergonomic grip zones improve comfort and portability (48 inches only)

Press this button to toggle the LEDs between level and plumb positions

Hanging hole for easy storage

$75

Limited lifetime warranty on frames and vials. 1 year warranty on electronics

IRWIN Tools – Functions of the 2000 Box Beam Level

Continuous Edge increases the level’s durability and ensures lasting accuracy, protects the center vial and allows for continuous scribing

Plumb Site® offers double-sided, undistorted view of the plumb position and easy, more accurate plumb measurements

Retractable end caps allow scribing in and through corners, increasing work efficiency

$46

IRWIN Tools – Features of the 2500 Box Beam Level

The thick-walled, high-quality aluminum frame offers extreme durability and withstands the wear and tear of the job site

Continuous Edge increases the level’s durability and ensures lasting accuracy, protects the center vial and allows for continuous scribing

Plumb Site® offers double-sided, undistorted view of the plumb position and easy, more accurate plumb measurements

Overmolded rubber end caps provide shock absorption, protect level accuracy on impact, and are removable to allow accurate leveling in corners

$76

Stabila – Heavy Duty Level Type 196 Properties

Crystal clear vials readable in any direction with no change in accuracy tolerance.

Spring steel hairline indicators in vial.

Sealed vial system, no recalibration required

Removable rubber end caps for scribing in corners and reading tight head and sill openings.

Rubber end caps grip walls and leave no marks.

Metal hanging hole for storing spirit level on site.

Two rubberized hand grips for comfort and grip (16″ version has a hand grip)

59″ and longer have a bridge across the bubble for increased strength and provide an uninterrupted surface for drawing and scribing across the horizontal bubble

The accuracy of the vials is guaranteed for life

One horizontal (level) and two vertical (plumb) vials

$130

Stabila – R Beam Type 300 properties

Ergonomic, user-friendly shape

Precision: 3 straight edges

Handle: Full handle

Finish: Fender smooth

Strength: Over twice the horizontal strength of our Heavy Duty Type 196 levels

Sealed vial system – never needs adjustment

One horizontal (level) and two vertical (plumb) vials

The 48-inch model features an offset plumb vial for easy viewing from a kneeling position

Vials come with a lifetime guarantee

$106

Stanley – 48 in FATMAX® Premium Box Beam with hook capabilities

Enlarged center block level for high readability accuracy 0.0005 inch

Block solder vial for an accuracy of 0.0005 inch

Removable end cap for flush and accurate marking

Rafter hook folds out – practical storage solution on site

$36

Fit, finish and quality of the layers

The first impression of any tool we test is usually the fit, finish, and quality of the materials used in the tool. First impressions are important and often help us gauge long-term durability and performance on tough jobs. While this is quite subjective, we have no doubt that most people would probably rank these in the same order if the levels were all on a bench in front of them at once. Below is the list of tiers, with the top of the list being best fit, finish and quality.

Stabila – Heavy Plane Type 196: This plane really stands out among the planes in this review. This is a very durable spirit level made from high quality materials. It has a high-quality finish, milled striking surfaces and very comfortable finger holes. Stabila – R Beam Type 300: While the Type 19 is our preference for the hand holes, this level is just as well built as the other Stabila level we reviewed. This level is certainly built to withstand the toughest job site conditions for trades such as concrete and masonry. Empire – e75 Series 48″ TRUE BLUE® Box Level: The Empire levels also impressed us with the paint finish, milled faces, convenient hand holes, and quality bubbles.

Evenness of milled surfaces

For this section we also evaluated the flatness of the milled surface on the planes. To do this, we placed a milled ruler on each level and used feeler gauges to check for gaps between the two surfaces. All flat contact surfaces were very flat. The maximum distance between the machined straight edge and a spirit level was 1,100 inches. The bottom line is that all of these levels have a very flat surface to begin with.

Both the IRWIN and Stanley FATMAX levels are decent levels but more consumer quality in terms of fit and finish.

Vial Visibility

One of the main characteristics of a good level is the visibility and legibility of the spirit levels. Five of the seven levels in this rating use a traditional yellow/green spirit color in the level bubble. While two of them (Empire) use a slightly bluish alcohol in theirs. Having used all of these levels over the past few months, we find that the yellow/green color is preferable in most low light conditions. However, the Empire LED lighted vials are very easy to read and definitely a cut above the green/yellow non-lighted vials.

In addition to the visibility of the actual vial, the placement of the vial within the leveling frame also contributes to the overall visibility of these vials. As you can see in the accompanying photo, the vials are attached to the frame in very different positions in each of the levels. For example, the IRWIN and Stabila R-Beam levels have cutouts in the frame that create a “window” to the bubble level. While the rest of the tiers have a full notch on the vial, allowing for better vial visibility.

Frame strength vs. vial visibility

Obviously, the trade-off is one between strength and visibility. The first three levels mentioned provide more continuity to the level frame and additional protection for the vial. While the other layers offer far better visibility from different user positions.

In our view, the Stabila Heavy Duty Type 196 offers the best view of the vial and the clearest vial of its traditional yellow/green spirits. We also think the Empire LED has excellent visibility when using the LED light. The Stabila R Beam has the same vial, but is much harder to see in the small “window” cutouts than in the full view that the Type 19 offers. The downside to this is that the Stabila R Beam offers superior vial protection for tough job site conditions.

IRWIN Tools offers a unique design with an angled mirror built into the frame. This allows users to read the vial from other position angles. This is extremely useful when working on ladders and other positions that make it difficult to see the vial.

Bending strength in major and minor axis

To assess how strong these planes are, we set up a test rig that allowed us to test the flexural strength of these planes in both the strong and weak axis. While we didn’t test them to failure, we loaded them with a heavy load and measured the deflection, which allowed us to rank them for bending stiffness.

The test was a simple point load bending test. The load was applied with a sling in the middle of each tier. A second plane was placed above the test plane to provide a reference point for deflection measurements. An example of the test setup is shown below for reference.

We also wanted to test the planes to see if any of them were permanently deflected after loading. We measured the difference between the initial no-load state and the post-load state. In other words, how well do the planes return to their normal shape after removing the load? We measured this with a feeler gauge. That gives you an idea of ​​how small the numbers were.

The loads we placed on the strong axle were in the form of 60 pound concrete bags (3, 4 or 5 bags) plus the weight of the chain/straps and plus the weight of the pallet. That gave us roughly 200, 260, 320lb point loads tested on the strong axis and 200lb load on the weak axis. The results are below:

Strong axis rigidity

The first graph above shows us the deflection of each plane when loaded in the major axis. The strongest (stiffest) stage was the Stabila R Beam Type 300 with about 3/16″ deflection under a 300lb load. The IRWIN Tools 2500 followed in a close 2nd place. The LED spirit level Empire e95 ended up in last place (the spirit level housing broke under this load condition).

Strong axle load – permanent deflection

We also measured the permanent deflection after the stress test to see if any of the tiers would become damaged (no longer straight) from excessive stress. The graph above shows the measured permanent deflection of each plane after the load has been removed. Two of the planes showed a deflection that we think would be considered significant. The Empire e95 was the worst and this is almost certainly related to the cracked vial case after the 300lb load. The other level of concern was the Stanley FATMAX. It should be noted that these are still very small numbers, with the Empire at 0.02 inches and the Stanley at 0.01 inches.

Strong axle load – permanent deflection

We also did the same comparison of permanent deflection under light axle loads. Above you can see that the same two planes don’t perform very well under extreme stress in the weak axis.

What does it all mean? Ideally, nobody “loads” their levels this way. However, it does give us some insight into long-term durability due to the tough jobsite conditions. It gives us a glimpse of how powerful these levels are and how well they can be punished if we abuse them.

Durability Rating – Drop Test

Levels are dropped from ladders, scaffolding, and anywhere on the construction site, so we wanted to evaluate how well the levels performed after falling from a fixed height. This test was again used to rank the tiers based on their post-drop rating. We built a rig so the levels all fall the same way. Construction sites are all so different that there are probably a few thousand (maybe more) combinations of elevations, vectors, and surfaces that could be lowered. We chose to drop them straight down to best rate the end cap protection built into the levels.

The drop rig was an 8 foot step ladder with 3 inch ABS pipe positioned vertically. A trigger pin (long smooth bolt) was drilled through the pipe section and the lowest point of the plane was exactly 6 feet off the ground. We pulled and dropped the stylus 10 times each, then inspected for physical damage and re-tested for accuracy. The accuracy results are below. A plumb number of 4 means that the vials are read plumb in 4 directions and that the vials have not been damaged by the drops. A number of 2 for the level means that the vials read the level in 2 directions and that the vials were not damaged by the drops. Anything less than means the vials have moved over the course of the drops.

drop test results

After completing each level, we checked them to see if the flasks were still working properly. The results are as follows:

Six of the seven planes are all perpendicular from both ends of the plane. The Empire e95 only read vertically at one end.

Four of the seven levels are all level after drop testing, including: IRWIN Tools 2000 Box Level Stabila R Beam Type 300 Stabila Heavy Duty Type 196 Empire e75 Level

Three of the seven tiers no longer show “Level” after testing, including: Stanley FATMAX IRWIN TOOLS 2500 Box Level Empire e95 LED Level

In addition, we also assessed the damage to the protective end caps. Most scored very well on this assessment, with the exception of the IRWIN Tools levels. These levels could benefit from redesigned end caps.

level accuracy

When it comes to construction planes, accuracy is obviously important. We performed a basic level assessment to verify accuracy. The test consists of placing the levels on a solid surface facing both directions and checking the level to see if it reads the same from both sides. Below is an image showing one of the tests. As you can see, the bubble on this IRWIN Tools layer shows the same in both directions (bubble slightly to the right of center).

All levels passed this test and showed excellent accuracy out of the box. We found no evidence that any of the levels had an accuracy issue.

Value – price & performance

The value is very subjective for such an evaluation due to the large price range. Therefore, for this review, we felt it important to consider the first three categories in combination with the price of the tool. Because if a level that costs half the price of a similar competitor’s level can withstand the same punishment and remain accurate, then that would be much more valuable from an investment perspective.

In our view, the best value for money in this group of levels is the Empire e75 Series 48″ Model E75.48. Priced at $50, it’s a very well built level that costs less than half of the Stabila levels we’ve tested. It performed well in our durability tests and offers excellent accuracy. Honorable mention in this category goes to the IRWIN Tools 2500 Box Level, available for $76.

Unique features

Levels have been around for a very long time, so what could be unique about a level? We love innovation and some of these levels have some unique features that are worth pointing out.

Lighted Vials – Probably one of the most innovative features we’ve seen are the lighted flasks that Empire uses in their TRUE BLUE® UltraView™ LED box levels. This feature comes in handy more often than you might expect. Working in dark areas such as basements, crawl spaces, attics and low light situations makes the LED function invaluable. This is a feature that we believe will end on many levels in the future. The LED light is turned on by pressing a button on the side of the spirit level. The LED goes out automatically after 2 minutes. The LED runs on two AA batteries for up to 32 hours.

Rafter Hook – Who doesn’t love a rafter hook on their tools? We are used to them from our power tools and expect quality tools to help when working at height. The Stanley FATMAX® Premium Box Beam Level features a unique fold-out rafter hook at one end of the level. Anyone who has framed a roof knows how handy this can be to keep the spirit level from sliding off the roof! We think this is a great feature that should be included in all levels for carpenters.

Overall Results – Best Construction Levels

At the end of the day, we all want a winner and a trophy, right? Well, that comparison sure was tough (those of you who’ve been following this head-to-head on social media should know how hard it was to write!). For this head-to-head race, we decided to highlight three of the best build stages:

Best Construction Level – Hands down, we thought the Stabila Heavy Duty Level Type 196 was the best level we tested. The quality, power, visibility, and accuracy of this level make it easy to call it the best construction level we’ve tested.

– Hands down, we thought the Stabila Heavy Duty Level Type 196 was the best level we tested. The quality, power, visibility, and accuracy of this level make it easy to call it the best construction level we’ve tested. Runner-up in the best design stage – Stabila was awarded the contract in this case as well. This time we nominate the Stabila R Beam Type 300 as our runner-up in the Best Construction Level category. The quality, durability and strength of this level make it a tool that will last for many years.

– Here, too, Stabila nods. This time we nominate the Stabila R Beam Type 300 as our runner-up in the Best Construction Level category. The quality, durability and strength of this level make it a tool that will last for many years. Best Value Build Level – The 48″ E75.48 model of the Empire e75 series really impressed us with its quality, accuracy and durability at a price point well over half of the levels listed above. This level certainly deserves to be ranked very close to the two Stabila levels we rated.

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Large format tiles are one of the hottest design trends right now. Find out about their advantages and what you should consider when laying large format tiles.

Are you looking for a reliable tiling tools supplier to ensure you always have quality tiling tools and equipment in stock? Here’s what you need to know.

Looking for gold detailing for your wet areas but don’t want the aged look of natural brass? Here are some practical tips.

How to choose the right spirit level

A spirit level is a tool used by tilers to determine whether a surface is level (horizontal) or plumb (vertical). The word spirit refers to the liquid in the glass vials, usually colored spirit to make the level gauge easier to read. They are also known as spirit levels, which refers to the air bubble trapped in the liquid in the vials.

We consider bubble levels to be one of the most important tools in a tiler’s toolbox as it is an important tool to ensure a properly completed project.

There are many types of bubble levels on the market. They come in different brands, colors, shapes, designs and materials. While most of them will get the job done to some extent, it’s still important to choose the right spirit level that will give you years of accurate readings.

With many years of experience in sourcing tools for the tile trade, Amark Group believes that the right bubble levels must answer three key questions:

How easy is it to read the measurements?

How accurate is the level meter?

How durable are the materials?

Choose the right spirit level – how easy is it to read the measurements?

Be honest, to make sure your work is level you have to spend a lot of time looking at that little liquor bottle with the barrel-shaped bubble. The spirit level is the most important part of the spirit level.

A good spirit level should have vials with magnifying glasses for easy and accurate reading. It should also allow you to read the measurements and the levels from different angles.

How accurate is the level meter?

The best bubble level is accurate to plus or minus 0.5 mm/m. Most good level manufacturers have this information available. Some, like BMI spirit levels, even print their measurement accuracy on the products. It is important to check the level accuracy before purchasing.

Choose the right bubble level – how durable are they?

The durability of your spirit level means that you can use it for a long time. But its durability also affects its measurement accuracy. This is especially true for longer spirit levels as they are at greater risk of being bent or warped and therefore accuracy will be affected.

While some plastic levels are of high quality, we still prefer aluminum levels for their strength, durability and because they are not too heavy to handle.

Some levels even come with shock absorbing rubber end caps to ensure their longevity and durability.

Choosing the right spirit levels – other factors to consider

It’s all about choosing the right tool for the job, and it certainly applies to bubble levels. Shorter levels may be more useful for working in smaller spaces, while longer levels offer better accuracy over distance. It’s no wonder that some craftsman’s tool boxes consist of several spirit levels of different sizes.

Spirit levels, especially the longer ones, should come with more than one glass bubble to allow for easy reading from different angles.

BMI spirit levels distributed by the Amark Group

Amark Group has chosen to stock BMI spirit levels imported from Germany to provide tilers with the most reliable and accurate spirit level reading tool on the market.

The center bubble in the BMI levels features a magnified effect for accurate and easy reading

BMI values ​​have the highest measurement accuracy (0.5mm/m) due to their ultrasonically welded vials. No more double bladder problems.

BMI values ​​can also be used for inverted measurements with an accuracy of 0.5 mm/m.

BMI Superstar levels have strong aluminum walls and shock absorbing rubber end caps for durability and accuracy.

They are available in different length sizes (from 300mm to 2000mm) for easy and flexible use.

Tiling tools and equipment: Amark Group expertise

The Amark Group stocks a wide range of quality tools for professional tilers. Our tools are made from the finest materials that ensure durability and reliability so you can get the job done quickly, efficiently and with the finest finish.

Our products are available nationwide in all leading specialist tile shops. Our friendly customer service team can also advise you on our wide range of products and where to find them. Call us on 1800.804.297 or send us an online inquiry.