Tension Wire Fence Kit? The 127 Detailed Answer

Strong do’s and don’ts

Hi-Ten Fencing Tips – Some Do’s and Don’ts

Over the years, fencing has fascinated me from many different perspectives. The main agricultural purpose of the fence is to keep livestock in an area where you want them. However, there are many other factors and aspects that go into the construction of the fence. Of all the different types of farm fencing, I firmly believe that 12.5 gauge heavy duty fencing is the best choice you can make. It’s 3 to 4 times stronger, lasts 3 to 4 times longer, is easy to erect and costs less than any other traditional type of fence. However, as the journey across the country progresses, it is evident that many mistakes and mistakes are made in the construction. Here are a few tips that I hope will help you with your high strength fencing. These comments are based on permanent fences. Mobile fences are another topic of their own.

– Do not fasten the wires tightly to the service posts: the wires must swim past each service post. This is required to maintain the elasticity effect – allowing the high-strength wire to respond as it is intended. It allows the wire to be springy and springy. 12.5 gauge high tensile wire stretches about 2% of its length – then returns to its original tension. We have to allow that! Now 2% doesn’t sound like much, but it equates to 27 feet in a quarter mile. It may become “super beneficial” such as Eg: Trees or branches falling on a fence, wildlife, wild animals driving livestock through fences, etc. We must allow the wire to pass through all service post connections.

– Different Fencing Wire Gauges: It really is best to use the same wire gauge throughout your system. There’s this thing called resistance. The electrical impulse travels through your fence wires and wherever there is a connection or connection, a small amount of resistance is created. Even if the wire is rusty, the rust itself creates resistance. 17 gauge wire has much more resistance than 12.5 gauge wire. It’s like water in a pipe in that you wouldn’t run a mile on a 1/2 inch pipe, then switch to a 1 inch pipe, then back to a 1/2 inch pipe, right? I know, I know you have that spool of old phone cord you bought at a sale years ago that you want to use. It’s a bit rusty, it’s maybe 20 years old, but you want to use it. You’ll be much better off just spending 2 cents a foot and buying a new 12.5 high tensile wire.

– Over-tensioning of high-tenacity wire: High-tenacity wire only requires between 150 and 200 pounds of tension. If you are used to setting up barbed wire, you would typically put about 300 to 350 pounds of tension on it. So do not overstretch the high-strength wire. This is usually the final step in erecting your fence. As you tension the wire, simply watch the slack between the line posts. You don’t have to take out all the slack. With a 40 foot post spacing, it is fine to have 1 to 2 inches of sag between the posts. The exception here is a goat or sheep fence where you have a wire only 6 inches off the ground. In that case, you might need the 200 pounds to keep the wire off the ground on rough terrain.

– Poor Quality Post Insulators: This is probably the biggest area of ​​failure (and frustration) for electric fences. You can buy high quality insulators for $7/bag of 25, or you can buy cheap ones for $3 a bag. Darker colors last longer. Stay away from yellow insulators. Good ones usually have a 10-year guarantee and cheap ones have no guarantee. A failed insulator on a steel post will cause your entire system to lose effectiveness. Why take the risk?

– Inadequate energizer: I’m a proponent of trying to have 8-10kV on my fence. This means you will have good excitement all year round. It’s not difficult to have 10,000 volts in the spring when the grass/vegetation load is light, but you must be able to maintain a good voltage in May and June when the vegetation load is heavy and wet. If you go from 10kV to 8kV you’re still in good shape. But if you go down from 6kV to 3kV in May, you could run into problems. While a $500-$800 energizer sounds like a lot of money (and it is), in most cases, when you look at the overall length of the fence, it will probably be less than a penny per foot.

– Improper grounding: Yes, you must install proper grounding for your energizer, no matter how big or small the energizer is. As a rule of thumb, there should be at least 3 feet or a ground rod for each joule output signal from the charger. Example: A charger with a 10 Joule output requires at least 30 feet of grounding rods or 5 rods that are 6 feet each. When wet you can get by with sanding on T-posts or the like – but when it gets dry it’s not enough anymore. You need that 6 foot depth to get into good moisture. Bars should be at least 10 feet apart in an area of ​​permanent moisture.

– Building new fences next to old fences: Old fences usually have broken wires and a jumble of repairs that can get into a new electric fence built too close to the old fence. If removing the old fence is out of the question, then at least go over it many times and look for loose and potential problems. I’ve done this many times with clients and we will invariably find an old piece of wire tucked neatly shorting out the new fence. Amazing how invisible old rusty barbed wire can be in a bed of leaves, forage and vines. And a short circuit does not always give off a loud bang or spark. The old long duration chargers did this, but the newer, more powerful, short pulse duration ones didn’t.

– Line Post Selection: When choosing the type of line post you will be using, try to think about a 20 year time horizon rather than the cost per post on the day of purchase! And while you may have used steel T-posts your entire life, remember that “steel is the enemy” when it comes to electric fencing. If you decide to use steel T-posts remember to use the best quality insulator you can get, backed by a 10 year guarantee. Sunscreen treated fiberglass is an option. Suction rod composite posts are an option. Powerflex composite posts are an option. All of these are composites that are insulated and do not require isolators, just a cotter pin attachment. Each of these has a degree of flexibility that allows the wire some wiggle room. Sunscreen-treated fiberglass posts have guarantees that they won’t yellow, but most of us know you still want to wear leather gloves when handling them. The suction rods are sure to have splinters unless you paint them, which is time consuming. The Powerflex posts are easy to use and lighter in weight. They are also more flexible and seem to hold onto the ground better with fewer lifting problems. Fiberglass and sucker rods would need to be pre-drilled as they are very difficult to drill on site. Powerflex posts are easily field drilled and wire spacing placed where you want them. Considering that a large portion of your fence budget will be expended in line posts, it’s a good idea to consider the options and weigh the longevity of each.

– Train your livestock on electric fences: Training animals on electric fences is very simple and in most cases takes less than a day in a smaller pen before moving them to the paddock system. When introducing new animals into your system that have never been near an electric fence, you should prepare a smaller area where they can get used to it without getting out. A good shock is usually enough for cattle, maybe a few more for goats. The shock registers in the animal’s brain and once trained, they will remember it for a long time. This training area should have a good performance on the fence to ensure they are memorable.

– Don’t just assume that everything works: yes, electric fences need to be checked regularly. Typically, every time you check your livestock, you want to check the voltage on your fences as well. You can’t do that without a voltmeter. It’s a must with electric fencing – you need to know what the voltage is. Some voltmeters also show the current, which additionally helps you to find any short circuits or faults that occur. As you grow with your system, you’ll learn what to look for in your tension, and if problems arise, you’ll be able to resolve them quickly.

– Nicked, kinked, or dented wire: If you get nicks or kinks in your wire during installation, you need to fix it. If the wire gets a kink during payout, then you should cut it and install a crimp. Otherwise, it may break at the most opportune time, when you don’t have time to fix it.

The same goes for dented wires. For example, if you carelessly install a crimp barrel and your crimping tool dents or cracks the plating, you might as well fix it on the spot, as it may break again later. If the Class III coating gets damaged, it’s a weak point, so fix it. High tensile wire has a very high breaking point of 1000 to 1500 pounds – but it needs to be installed cleanly and correctly.

– Product installed incorrectly: yes, believe it or not, this happens all the time. A favorite peeve of mine is the end strain isolators. There’s a right way and a wrong way, and I’ve seen my share of the wrong way. The wire needs to be pulled through the ground of the insulator – not through the small hole at the end. When in doubt – ask someone. The only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask.

– Electrical Connections: I think this area is one that needs more discussion. I see a lot of people just wrap a jumper wire around the fence wire. I also see a lot of these arcing and making a pretty bad electrical connection. There are many good quality crimps, split screws, taps, etc. that do a good job for very little money. As the impulse flows down and around the fence wire, wire wraps create resistance. This isn’t a problem on the ends where you might want to hand knot your wire to an insulator…but on the fence wire where you’re transmitting an electronic pulse you need a good connection at your jumpers. I’ve found that you often read 1 to 4 amps (leakage) on each wrapped connection. That’s not much, but if you add them all up, your voltage will simply drop due to resistance.

I hope these general comments help you when working with high tensile wire. I firmly believe this is the best fence you can put up for any type of livestock. As you progress with this, you’ll be amazed that just a single line keeps the cattle where you want them.

Have you ever had a chain link fence that kept giving under it? Most of the time it’s because your dog would dig under it to get out. If you live in a windy area, it could also be the weather. Whatever the reason for your chain link fence damage, know you can do something about it. Two Ways to Reinforce the Bottom of a Chain Link Fence There are two ways to reinforce your chain link fence. One is through tent stakes and the other adds ground rails. Read on to learn how to do both. Using Tent Pegs The easiest way to reinforce your chain link fence at the bottom is to use tent pegs. Tent pegs can be bought at any hardware store and are very cheap. If you don’t want to do any installation or just aren’t a DIY enthusiast then using tent pegs is an easy and no fuss solution. Here’s how: 1. Align your chain link fence. If your fence already bulges or curves on other sides, make sure the posts are in a straight line with the rest when you place them. 2. Place the stakes. To do this, you need a hammer or a mini slide. First position the stake on the fence. You want to angle it so that the post itself is on one side of the fence while the hook-like part of the post is on the other side. Once you find the right angle, simply drive the stake down with your hammer. Just keep pushing it on the ground until the top of the stake is almost invisible. To know if you did it right, try sliding the section of fence over the post. If it stays rooted in the ground, you’re done. Do this with the other damaged parts of your fence.

Using Ground Rails Another option is to place ground rails directly under your fence. While this is more tedious and time-consuming, it’s a great way to make your fence more durable and long-lasting. To install a bottom rail: 1. Purchase a rail that is the same diameter as your old rail. For obvious reasons, you should install a rail that is the same diameter as your old rail or your top rail, whichever is available. Use a ruler or tape measure from the end of the circle to the opposite end. This way you can tell the hardware store the correct diameter of your bottom rail. 2. Remove the old floor rail. Once you have your new splint, it’s time to remove the damaged splint. To remove them, use pliers to remove the zip ties holding the rail together. Bend the end of the zip ties to loosen them, and then do the same for all other zip ties. 3. Measure the new rail for cutting. To measure how long you will be using the new rail, unclip the old rail and slide the new one onto the smaller one. Make sure the smaller end goes through the other rail. To know how long, place the two rails side by side and mark the length you will be using. A pencil mark will suffice. 4. Cut the new rail. This is the hardest part simply because you would need goggles and a respirator. Before cutting the rail with a saber saw, wear protective gear to avoid inhaling the metal dust. Using a saber saw or hacksaw, hold the rail in place with your non-dominant hand, and then begin cutting the metal. 5. Insert the new rail into the old one. When you’re done cutting, insert the new rail into the old rail. Slide the smaller end of the new rail into the larger end of the old rail. You can remove the old rail in the fence’s stud to make the installation easier for you. 6. Add cable ties. The final step is to install new zip ties to secure the bottom rail to the actual fence. Using pliers, place a cable tie a few inches from the end of the rail. The correct way to attach a cable tie is to loop it around the rail and around the grille. It’s like pulling them together so they don’t break up. Otherwise, having a bottom rail is useless as your dog can then simply create a space between the rail and the gate. When you’re done, add more zip ties every few inches from your last zip tie.

Chain link fencing is a common and easy to install type of fencing. Credit: Ablestock.com/AbleStock.com/Getty Images See more photos

Chain link fencing is a versatile and inexpensive way to fence off your property. It is available in various weights or thicknesses that can withstand a variety of uses. Chain link fencing consists of fabric, frames, hardware and gates. The smaller the thickness of a component, the more steel was used in its manufacture and the stronger the material.

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material

The fabric of a chain link fence is the visible barrier material with the diamond-shaped links. It is important to choose a fabric based on its use and the gauge of the wire, the type of coating and the size of the mesh. Zinc is the most common coating, but you can also get fabrics with colored vinyl or polyester coatings. The mesh size can be 2-3/8″, 2-1/4″, or 2″. The smaller the mesh size, the more steel and the stronger the fabric.

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Measuring device

The diameter of the wire indicates the thickness. Although a smaller number means stronger material, sometimes a more flexible mesh is needed, meaning greater strength. Gauge ranges from 13 to 6, but the most common gauges are 11-1/2 to 9. Described as “light commercial duty”, 9 gauge is most commonly used on public and government projects. It’s considered better than the 11-1/2, which isn’t as strong.

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inches in a gauge

The most common measuring devices correspond to certain inch dimensions. A number 6 is .192 inches, while a large 12-1/2 is .099 inches. The number 9 is .148 inches and the 11-1/2 is .113 inches. That makes the difference between the 11-1/2 and 9 gauge .018 inch. The mesh size is between 2 and 2-1/2 inches on the 11 gauge fabric, but about an inch smaller on the 9 gauge fabric. This only indicates the size of the diamonds in the fabric. The smaller and more numerous the diamonds, the stronger the fabric, as in the case of the 9 gauge variant.

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Chain link fence considerations

When choosing the chain link, in addition to the thickness, the height of the mesh and the amount of zinc coating applied to the wire should also be considered. The American Society for Testing Material has designated the standard as A 392-96. The zinc protects the steel from corrosion. The standard is 1/2 inch per square foot coating. Cast-in frames and die-cast hardware are the final fence considerations. These must be chosen to emphasize the tensile strength of the fabric and increase the strength required for the fencing.

What is the best chain link fence for your commercial property? A chain link fence gauge refers to the measurement of wire gauge. Research shows that a thicker wire length is directly proportional to the strength and stability of a chain link fence. Chain link manufacturers weave chain link fencing wire into a unique pattern with diamond-shaped holes. The smaller the holes, the more wire will be needed to create the fence. This leads to an increase in the strength, stability and security of the fence. In today’s article, we will guide you to the right gauge chain link fence for your commercial property. Benefits of Chain Link Fencing Safety and security are the main reasons why business owners hire chain link fence installation companies for their commercial properties. Chain link fencing is the safest option in terms of reliability, strength and cost.

Although more commercial property owners prefer a visual barrier when building privacy walls, a chain link fence provides more protection and prevents intruders from hiding. Unlike plastic and wood, chain link fencing is inexpensive and reliable, especially if you have large commercial spaces.

Our company offers the installation of chain link fencing for various commercial properties, including commercial zones, parking lots, playgrounds, sports fields and sports fields. Chain link fencing is an excellent, reliable and secure option for all types of commercial applications.

Unlike visible walls and fences made of wood, vinyl, or aluminum materials, chain link fences have a unique construction that provides greater strength and clarity. At the same time, it transmits sunlight well.

Our company has experienced and qualified professionals who follow step by step to streamline the installation process. Compared to other fencing, chain link fencing is easy to install, allowing business owners to save time and focus on other business operations.

chain link fence gauges

Factors that determine the effectiveness and durability of chain link fencing include wire type, mesh size, and gauge. These pieces make up a quality chain link fence as each component achieves a different result. It’s important to understand the differences in metrics so you can make the best decision or choice that will help you achieve your goals.

When choosing the right chain link fencing you need to focus on various factors such as material, wire quality, security, stability, size, height and strength. Chain link wire is available in a variety of gauges including fine or delicate and heavy duty wires. As the gauge number gets lower, it indicates that the wire is getting thicker.

For example, a 9-gauge chain link fence is the standard gauge for commercial properties, resulting in wear resistance and increased stability. We recommend a 6 gauge tie fence for your property if it requires more punching. A 6-gauge chain link fence is suitable for baseball and basketball courts because it can withstand the impact of high-speed balls.

What are wire gauges?

The gauge measures the diameter of the wire and the amount of steel used to make the mesh of the fence. Measurement numbers show the difference in size for chain link fencing. Lower caliper numbers mean more caliper. For example, 12-gauge chain link fencing wire is thinner than 7-gauge wire.

An experienced commercial fence installation company with a team of experienced and qualified professionals uses advanced, state-of-the-art technology tools to measure the exact size.

The most common commercial property chain link fence gauges are .192 inch (6 gauge), .148 inch (9 gauge), .120 inch (11 gauge), and .113 inch (11.5 gauge). Although 9 gauge is the most common gauge for commercial properties, we recommend 11 gauge and 11.5 gauge for temporary fencing.

On the other hand, if you have a highly commercial application that requires more security, our expert will use 6 gauge chain link fencing. The 6-gauge chain link fence offers more security and stability due to the larger wire gauge.

Contact a commercial fencing contractor

Chain link fencing requires less maintenance while providing excellent security for any commercial building or property. With high-pressure cleaning processes, you can effectively and quickly clean coated steel or galvanized wires and protect them from stains.

Although chain link fence gauges range from 13 to 6, gauges between 11 and 9 are commonly used for residential and commercial properties. Described as “light commercial use,” 9 gauge chain link fencing is commonly used on government and public projects. On the other hand, 11 or 11.5 gauge is considered weaker for commercial applications.

However, when it comes to choosing the right gauge, you need to go to a commercial fencing company. Our professional team has years of experience in selecting the right material and thickness for chain link fencing. Contact us today!

Are all chain link fences the same?

Chain link consists of four elements: fabric, frame, fittings and gates. How you combine them makes all the difference. Each of these components are available in different weights (gauges) and types of protective coatings. Vendors can mix and match components to save costs or differentiate their product. Our minimum recommendations generally follow the minimum practices defined by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The most common coating is zinc (galvanized), but you can also find chain link components with vinyl or polyester color coatings in addition to zinc. These color treatments enhance landscaping and blend naturally with trees, shrubs, and bushes. They also offer you even more protection against corrosion or rust.

What do I look for in residential chain link fabric?

Choose your chain link fence fabric based on these three criteria: wire size, mesh size and type of protective coating.

Gauge (ga.) or diameter of the wire is one of the most important factors – it helps you tell how much steel is actually in the weave. The smaller the gauge number, the more steel, the higher the quality and the stronger the wire. We recommend using no less than 11 ½ gauge (0.1121″ diameter) wire for residential fencing and 9 gauge (0.1494″ diameter) for commercial fencing. When referring to vinyl coated wire, always refer to the core cross section of the wire and then to the coating. Vinyl coated household wire with an 11 ½ gauge core wire may have a 9 gauge finish depending on the type of vinyl coating. Commercial vinyl coated wire with a 9 gauge core wire can have a 6 gauge to 8 gauge finish depending on the type of vinyl coating. The mesh size indicates how far apart the parallel wires in the mesh are. In other words how big the diamond is from side to side. This is another indication of how much steel is in the product. The smaller the diamond, the more steel there is in the fabric. We recommend no less than 2 3/8 inch mesh for residential use and 2 inch mesh for commercial use. Various mesh sizes are available ranging from 3/8”, 5/8”, ¾”, 1” 1 ¾”, 2”, 2 ¼”, 2 3/8” to 3 ½”. The smaller mesh sizes are typically used in high security applications that prevent people from climbing or being cut. The larger meshes are used in the living area. Core wire coating is critical. There are three types of core wire coatings. Hot Dip Galvanized – Galvanized after weaving. GAW wire is first woven and then dipped in a cauldron of hot molten zinc. The speed at which it is dipped and removed determines the weight of the coating. GAW coating is available in 1.2 ounces of coating per square foot or 2 ounces of coating per square foot. This coating process tends to leave icicles and nubs from the dripping zinc. Galvanized before weaving. GBW wire electroplates the wire before weaving. This coating process has improved over the years and provides a smooth, consistent and reliable coating. It is also available in 1.2 and 2 oz. GBW is popular in backyards and athletic applications because of its smooth finish. An aluminized coating is applied prior to weaving, giving the core wire a matte aluminum finish. Its soft metal properties provide an excellent coating suitable for highly acidic environments. Vinyl coating over finished core wire. According to ASTM 668, a vinyl coated chain link is specified and ordered followed by the metallic core wire with the specified coating. Class 1 extruded. Your residential chain link is typically Class 1 “off-spec extruded” wire, meaning the vinyl coating is simply slipped over the wire like a sock over your foot. This wire is not generally shown as it is thicker than the higher quality materials. Of course, it’s thicker because it’s not connected to the chain link and can easily tear or peel off. Class 2A extruded and glued. The second type of wire is the “Class 2A Extruded and Bonded” wire. This wire can come in a few specifications and is generally used in commercial applications. The vinyl coating is thinner than the Class 1 “extruded” wire. However, the extruded and bonded wire is bonded to the wire with an intense adhesive, making it less likely to detach from the core wire or snap. Class 2B merged and connected. The third wire grade is “Class 2b thermally fused and bonded”. This class of wire is most commonly used by architects, engineers, city, state and federal agencies. It has the thinnest coating yet is resistant to cracking, peeling and tearing. The vinyl coating is literally fused and bonded to the steel as if two pieces of steel were welded together. This is the superior product.

American Fence Company is Omaha’s premier residential fencing contractor.

How do I choose my residential fence scaffold?

Start with the gauge and the outside diameter. Below is a helpful chart to use when choosing your fence frame. “End post” is a generic term for end, corner and goal posts. Goal posts vary depending on the size of the goal.

Application Light Duty Medium Duty Heavy Duty 3′-4′ high Toprail 1-3/8” 17 ga. 1-3/8” 16ga. 1-3/8” 15ga. Line Post 1-5/8” 17 ga. 1-5/8” 16ga. 1-5/8” 15ga. Terminals 1-7/8” 17ga. 1-7/8” 16ga. 1-7/8” 15ga. 5′-6′ tall Toprail 1-3/8″ 17ga. 1-3/8” 16ga. 1-5/8” 15ga. Line Post 1-7/8” 17ga. 1-7/8” 16ga. 1-7/8″ 15ga. Terminals 2-3/8″ 17ga 2-3/8″ 16ga. 2-3/8″ 15ga.

How do I choose my commercial fence scaffolding?

Fortunately, the American Society of Testing and Materials, ASTM, has effectively addressed this issue by helping customers choose materials ranging from light commercial to industrial grade. Under ASTM 1043; You can simply choose your table or material quality. Each class specifies the diameter and wall thickness of hose and pipe for the application and height.

American Fence Company, now serving Grand Island, Nebraska; Omaha, Nebraska; Lincoln, Nebraska; Sioux City, Iowa; Cedar Rapids, Iowa; Iowa City, Iowa; Des Moines, Iowa; Kansas; Sioux Falls, South Dakota; and Rochester, Minnesota. In Madison, WI and Salina, Wichita and Kansas City, Kansas we operate as AmeriFence Corporation. We are one of the top ten commercial and residential fencing contractors in the country.