Api General Cure Shrimp Safe? The 205 Correct Answer

diagnostic chart

Gill and skin flukes:

Very common fish parasites. Can be found on the gills, scales, or skin. Not visible without magnification. Symptoms may include: darkening of the skin, pinched fins, excess mucus. Fish can also swim erratically or lose weight.

Hole-in-the-Head Disease:

Symptoms include pitting and erosion of skin and muscle tissue on the face and sides of the body. Many infected fish show loss of appetite, weight loss and nervousness.

Wasting Disease:

Fish parasites, transmitted from fish to fish, cause emaciation, anemia, and lethargy. Excess mucus and white, stringy feces are often produced as a result of parasitic invasion.

Swollen belly:

Fish infected with tapeworms (cestodes) often have an elongated or swollen abdomen. The inner portion of the attachment results in tissue damage. Fish usually show signs of reduced ingrowth and general malaise.

treatment tips

Quarantine Aquarium. Remove dead fish immediately. Do not remove or add live fish to the infected aquarium. Parasitic infections are highly contagious and can be spread to other aquariums through nets, algae scrapers and wet hands.

Raise the water temperature to 28°C to speed up the life cycle of parasites and shorten the treatment time.

To aid in osmoregulation and relieve stress in infected fish, add 1 tablespoon API AQUARIUM SALT per 5 gallons (19 L) of aquarium water or 1 1/4 cup per 100 gallons (378 L).

This drug can be used in combination with API antibacterial drugs, including API MELAFIX, to prevent secondary bacterial infections.

Silverdot1211 said: I’m looking for a more definitive answer as to whether anemones and general remedies are compatible? Searching through all the stickies and other forums I haven’t found a solid answer Click to expand…

What are you aiming for the treatment? GC contains metronidazole and praziquantel. The former isn’t reef safe, but the latter is (mostly). If you want to deal with flukes, you can probably dose Prazipro

Last updated on September 21, 2021

These Customer Reviews and Questions and Answers Terms of Service (“Terms of Service”) and the Chewy, Inc. (“Chewy”) Terms of Service found here govern your conduct in connection with the Customer Reviews and Questions and Answers service offered by Chewy Answers.

You agree not to submit the following types of content or any content that violates these Terms of Service. Chewy reserves the right not to post content and to edit or delete any content if it contains any of the following types of content or otherwise violates these Terms of Service:

Harmful Effect: Content that mentions negative physiological effects when using the product.

: Content mentioning negative physiological effects from using the product. Advertising : Content that contains advertising or promotions for other companies, products or services.

: Content that contains advertising or promotions for other companies, products, or services. Labeling/Disclosure: Content that does not contain proper disclosures or labels indicating that the user has a material connection with Chewy.

: Content that does not include proper disclosures or badges indicating that the user has a significant connection with Chewy. Competitor References: Content mentioning Chewy competitors.

: Content mentioning Chewy’s competitors. Customer Service : Content about an interaction with a customer service representative or Chewy’s return/exchange policy.

: Content related to an interaction with a customer service representative or Chewy’s return/exchange policy. Store Directing: Content that encourages customers to buy the product elsewhere, whether or not a competitor is specifically named.

: Content that encourages customers to buy the product elsewhere, whether or not a competitor is explicitly named. Duplicate Content: Multiple reviews on a single product by a single user.

: Multiple reviews on a single product by a single user. Foreign Language : Content that is not in English.

: Content that is not in English. Deceptive Content : Content that does not appear to be a genuine customer review.

: Content that does not appear to be a genuine customer review. Import : Content that appears to have been imported from another platform.

: Content that appears to have been imported from another platform. Inappropriate Content: Any inappropriate content of any kind, including but not limited to aggressive, threatening, fake, trolling, lewd, drug-related, or sexually explicit comments, defamatory language, personal attacks, discriminatory language, hate speech, profanity, or mentions of animal cruelty.

: Any inappropriate content of any kind, including but not limited to aggressive, threatening, fake, trolling, lewd, drug-related, or sexually explicit comments, defamatory language, personal attacks, discriminatory language, hate speech, profanity, or mentions of animal cruelty. Inappropriate Imagery: Content that contains inappropriate imagery of any kind, including but not limited to human nudity or partial nudity, child abuse, or child pornography.

: Content containing inappropriate images of any kind, including but not limited to human nudity or partial nudity, child abuse, or child pornography. Infringing Content: Any content that appears to infringe the rights of any third party, including but not limited to content containing music.

: Any content that appears to infringe the rights of third parties, including but not limited to content containing music. Medical Advice : Content that solicits or offers medical advice.

: Content that solicits or provides medical advice. Off-Label Use : Content that mentions that a product is being used contrary to label directions.

: Content that mentions using a product contrary to label directions. Personally Identifiable Information: Content that contains personally identifiable information about an individual, such as: full name, phone number, address, email address, credit card information, government-issued identification number, social security number, or bank account number.

: Content that contains personally identifiable information about an individual, such as: full name, phone number, address, email address, credit card information, government issued ID number, social security number, or bank account number. Price References: Any reference to prices or comparative prices.

: references to prices or comparative prices. Product Not Purchased: Content that indicates that the product was not purchased at all (unless received as a gift), or that the product was purchased from a different retailer, or that does not indicate that the user purchased the product actually used.

: Content that indicates that the product was not purchased at all (unless received as a gift), or that the product was purchased from another retailer, or that does not indicate that the user actually used the product . Restricted Content : Content relating to injury, death, or loss related to a product, suggesting that something about a product or its use is unsafe, requiring legal action against Chewy, alleging that Chewy is breaking the law violates, or something mentioning counterfeit or pirated goods.

: Content that relates to injury, death, or loss related to a product, that suggests something about a product or its use is unsafe, that requires legal action against Chewy, that alleges that Chewy is breaking the law, or mention the fakes or pirated copies. Shipping : Content primarily about the shipping experience.

: Content that is primarily about the shipping experience. Test : The content is a test submission.

: Content is a test submission. Underage : Content indicates that the reviewer is under the age of 13.

: The content indicates that the reviewer is under 13 years old. Unknown Product : Content that does not appear to be related to a product.

: Content that does not appear to be about a product. URLs: Content contains hyperlinks or URLs (except “chewy.com”).

: Content contains hyperlinks or URLs (other than “chewy.com”). Vacuous : Content that does not provide specific, useful details about the product, or focuses primarily on a topic outside of the product, that does not include characters in the review, that contains overly random characters or meaningless words, or that is so poorly written that it are incomprehensible.

: Content that does not provide specific, useful details about the product, or focuses primarily on a topic outside of the product, does not include characters in the rating, contains excessive random characters or meaningless words, or is so poorly written that it are incomprehensible. Wrong product: The content is not related to the rated product.

By submitting any Content to Chewy, you represent and warrant that:

You are the sole author of the Content and own all intellectual property and other rights in the Content;

you have voluntarily waived any “moral rights” you may have in such content;

All content you post is correct;

You are at least 13 years old;

If you have a material connection with Chewy, that material connection will be properly disclosed in the Content in accordance with the FTC’s “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising”;

Use of the content you provide will not violate or infringe the rights of any third party or violate any applicable law; and

Use of the content you provide does not violate Chewy’s Privacy Policy, Terms of Service and these Terms of Service and will not cause harm to any person or entity.

You agree to indemnify and hold harmless Chewy (and its officers, directors, agents, subsidiaries, joint ventures, employees and third party service providers, including but not limited to Bazaarvoice, Inc.) from and against any and all claims, demands, liabilities and damages (actual and consequential costs) and expenses (including but not limited to reasonable attorneys’ fees) of every kind and nature, known and unknown, arising out of any breach or alleged breach of any of your representations and warranties set forth above, your breach of any law or Third party rights or use of content submitted by you.

For any Content you submit, you grant Chewy and its licensors, successors and assigns a perpetual, irrevocable, royalty-free, transferable right and license to use, reproduce, modify, delete in its entirety, adapt, publish, translate, create derivative works from sell, distribute and exploit such content (including without limitation your name, username, likeness, voice and biographical information) and any material based on or derived from it, together with other material or modified, as Chewy sees fit, in any media (whether now known or hereafter developed), throughout the world, for any purpose (including but not limited to advertising or commercial purposes), without compensation to you.

Any content you submit may be used at Chewy’s sole discretion. Chewy reserves the right to change, abridge or delete any content on Chewy’s website. Chewy does not guarantee that you can use Chewy to edit or delete any content you submit. Ratings and written comments are usually published within two to four business days. However, Chewy reserves the right to remove and post or refuse to post any Content for any reason, including but not limited to the reasons set forth herein. You acknowledge that you, and not Chewy, are responsible for the content of your Submission. None of the Content you submit will be subject to any obligation of confidentiality on the part of Chewy, its agents, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners or third parties and their respective directors, officers and employees.

By providing your email address in connection with content you submit, you agree that Chewy and its third-party providers may use your email address to contact you regarding the status of your review and for other administrative purposes.

When should I use API FUNGUS CURE™ Fish Cure?

If your fish shows signs of fungal infection, treat them with API FUNGUS CURE fish treatment. Symptoms of fungal infection include body mucus, fin and tail rot, and eye and mouth fungus (cotton or white spots on fish). Already sick or injured fish are very susceptible to fungal infections in dirty aquariums. API FUNGUS CURE fish remedy controls the spread of infection and works within 48 hours to eliminate symptoms.

Should API FUNGUS CURE™ Fish Cure only be used to treat fungal infections?

API FUNGUS CURE fish remedy works best in treating fungal infections but can also be used to treat secondary bacterial infections. However, we recommend that you use API MELAFIX™ fish remedies or API E.M. Use ERYTHROMYCIN™ fish remedies to most effectively treat bacterial infections.

Do I need to remove my carbon or filter cartridge from the aquarium before adding API FUNGUS CURE™ Fish Cure to my aquarium?

Products designed to remove things from your aquarium such as: B. filter media, also remove dosed fish medicines from your aquarium. For best results with fish remedies, remove your filter media during dosing.

Should I leave the carbon cartridge out of the filter until the API FUNGUS CURE fish cure treatment is finished, or should I just remove it for a few minutes before/after the water treatment?

It is recommended to leave the charcoal or carbonaceous filter cartridge out of the filter throughout the treatment period and to remove it just prior to the first treatment dose. Products designed to remove things from your aquarium such as B. Charcoal, remove the dose of fish medicine from your aquarium if it remains in the filter or is replaced before the end of the treatment.

Enter the characters you see below

Sorry, we just need to make sure you’re not a robot. For best results please make sure your browser accepts cookies.

Last updated on September 21, 2021

These Customer Reviews and Questions and Answers Terms of Service (“Terms of Service”) and the Chewy, Inc. (“Chewy”) Terms of Service found here govern your conduct in connection with the Customer Reviews and Questions and Answers service offered by Chewy Answers.

You agree not to submit the following types of content or any content that violates these Terms of Service. Chewy reserves the right not to post content and to edit or delete any content if it contains any of the following types of content or otherwise violates these Terms of Service:

Harmful Effect: Content that mentions negative physiological effects when using the product.

: Content mentioning negative physiological effects from using the product. Advertising : Content that contains advertising or promotions for other companies, products or services.

: Content that contains advertising or promotions for other companies, products, or services. Labeling/Disclosure: Content that does not contain proper disclosures or labels indicating that the user has a material connection with Chewy.

: Content that does not include proper disclosures or badges indicating that the user has a significant connection with Chewy. Competitor References: Content mentioning Chewy competitors.

: Content mentioning Chewy’s competitors. Customer Service : Content about an interaction with a customer service representative or Chewy’s return/exchange policy.

: Content related to an interaction with a customer service representative or Chewy’s return/exchange policy. Store Directing: Content that encourages customers to buy the product elsewhere, whether or not a competitor is specifically named.

: Content that encourages customers to buy the product elsewhere, whether or not a competitor is explicitly named. Duplicate Content: Multiple reviews on a single product by a single user.

: Multiple reviews on a single product by a single user. Foreign Language : Content that is not in English.

: Content that is not in English. Deceptive Content : Content that does not appear to be a genuine customer review.

: Content that does not appear to be a genuine customer review. Import : Content that appears to have been imported from another platform.

: Content that appears to have been imported from another platform. Inappropriate Content: Any inappropriate content of any kind, including but not limited to aggressive, threatening, fake, trolling, lewd, drug-related, or sexually explicit comments, defamatory language, personal attacks, discriminatory language, hate speech, profanity, or mentions of animal cruelty.

: Any inappropriate content of any kind, including but not limited to aggressive, threatening, fake, trolling, lewd, drug-related, or sexually explicit comments, defamatory language, personal attacks, discriminatory language, hate speech, profanity, or mentions of animal cruelty. Inappropriate Imagery: Content that contains inappropriate imagery of any kind, including but not limited to human nudity or partial nudity, child abuse, or child pornography.

: Content containing inappropriate images of any kind, including but not limited to human nudity or partial nudity, child abuse, or child pornography. Infringing Content: Any content that appears to infringe the rights of any third party, including but not limited to content containing music.

: Any content that appears to infringe the rights of third parties, including but not limited to content containing music. Medical Advice : Content that solicits or offers medical advice.

: Content that solicits or provides medical advice. Off-Label Use : Content that mentions that a product is being used contrary to label directions.

: Content that mentions using a product contrary to label directions. Personally Identifiable Information: Content that contains personally identifiable information about an individual, such as: full name, phone number, address, email address, credit card information, government-issued identification number, social security number, or bank account number.

: Content that contains personally identifiable information about an individual, such as: full name, phone number, address, email address, credit card information, government issued ID number, social security number, or bank account number. Price References: Any reference to prices or comparative prices.

: references to prices or comparative prices. Product Not Purchased: Content that indicates that the product was not purchased at all (unless received as a gift), or that the product was purchased from a different retailer, or that does not indicate that the user purchased the product actually used.

: Content that indicates that the product was not purchased at all (unless received as a gift), or that the product was purchased from another retailer, or that does not indicate that the user actually used the product . Restricted Content : Content relating to injury, death, or loss related to a product, suggesting that something about a product or its use is unsafe, requiring legal action against Chewy, alleging that Chewy is breaking the law violates, or something mentioning counterfeit or pirated goods.

: Content that relates to injury, death, or loss related to a product, that suggests something about a product or its use is unsafe, that requires legal action against Chewy, that alleges that Chewy is breaking the law, or mention the fakes or pirated copies. Shipping : Content primarily about the shipping experience.

: Content that is primarily about the shipping experience. Test : The content is a test submission.

: Content is a test submission. Underage : Content indicates that the reviewer is under the age of 13.

: The content indicates that the reviewer is under 13 years old. Unknown Product : Content that does not appear to be related to a product.

: Content that does not appear to be about a product. URLs: Content contains hyperlinks or URLs (except “chewy.com”).

: Content contains hyperlinks or URLs (other than “chewy.com”). Vacuous : Content that does not provide specific, useful details about the product, or focuses primarily on a topic outside of the product, that does not include characters in the review, that contains overly random characters or meaningless words, or that is so poorly written that it are incomprehensible.

: Content that does not provide specific, useful details about the product, or focuses primarily on a topic outside of the product, does not include characters in the rating, contains excessive random characters or meaningless words, or is so poorly written that it are incomprehensible. Wrong product: The content is not related to the rated product.

By submitting any Content to Chewy, you represent and warrant that:

You are the sole author of the Content and own all intellectual property and other rights in the Content;

you have voluntarily waived any “moral rights” you may have in such content;

All content you post is correct;

You are at least 13 years old;

If you have a material connection with Chewy, that material connection will be properly disclosed in the Content in accordance with the FTC’s “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising”;

Use of the content you provide will not violate or infringe the rights of any third party or violate any applicable law; and

Use of the content you provide does not violate Chewy’s Privacy Policy, Terms of Service and these Terms of Service and will not cause harm to any person or entity.

You agree to indemnify and hold harmless Chewy (and its officers, directors, agents, subsidiaries, joint ventures, employees and third party service providers, including but not limited to Bazaarvoice, Inc.) from and against any and all claims, demands, liabilities and damages (actual and consequential costs) and expenses (including but not limited to reasonable attorneys’ fees) of every kind and nature, known and unknown, arising out of any breach or alleged breach of any of your representations and warranties set forth above, your breach of any law or Third party rights or use of content submitted by you.

For any Content you submit, you grant Chewy and its licensors, successors and assigns a perpetual, irrevocable, royalty-free, transferable right and license to use, reproduce, modify, delete in its entirety, adapt, publish, translate, create derivative works from sell, distribute and exploit such content (including without limitation your name, username, likeness, voice and biographical information) and any material based on or derived from it, together with other material or modified, as Chewy sees fit, in any media (whether now known or hereafter developed), throughout the world, for any purpose (including but not limited to advertising or commercial purposes), without compensation to you.

Any content you submit may be used at Chewy’s sole discretion. Chewy reserves the right to change, abridge or delete any content on Chewy’s website. Chewy does not guarantee that you can use Chewy to edit or delete any content you submit. Ratings and written comments are usually published within two to four business days. However, Chewy reserves the right to remove and post or refuse to post any Content for any reason, including but not limited to the reasons set forth herein. You acknowledge that you, and not Chewy, are responsible for the content of your Submission. None of the Content you submit will be subject to any obligation of confidentiality on the part of Chewy, its agents, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners or third parties and their respective directors, officers and employees.

By providing your email address in connection with content you submit, you agree that Chewy and its third-party providers may use your email address to contact you regarding the status of your review and for other administrative purposes.

Randy Holmes-Farley Reef Chemist

Joined Date: April 2001 Location: Arlington, Massachusetts Contributions: 86,233

I have yet to see convincing evidence of copper penetrating silicone.

In any case, my rationale is that unless it washes off easily (like washing with vinegar), it’s also not likely to come off when used at levels high enough to be a cause for concern give.

So I would clean it carefully and then move on.

I think the malachite green stains silicone more than copper. I haven’t seen any convincing evidence of copper penetrating silicone. Anyway, my reasoning is that if it doesn’t wash off easily (like washing with vinegar). ), then it’s also unlikely to come off when used at levels high enough to be a problem. So I would clean it carefully and then move on. __________________

Randy Holmes Farley

Current tank info: 120 mixed reef

ReefKeeperElite said: Okay, thanks. My thought is that some of the juice left in the mix after draining would still contain GC, which I don’t want in the water column. I’m thinking maybe drain as much juice as possible and skip the rinse. Click to expand…

That’s how I did it and when I did some research I found that this was the usual way people took care of it.1. Thaw the food2. Rinse and drain as much of the water from the thawed food as you can3. In a separate container (the one where the food is kept, you can add the thawed + medicated food for ca the medicine and make a pulp)4. then add the rinsed food to the medicine mix and coat evenly (some sources say to try grinding/mixing this mix into a pulp or porridge, however I didn’t do this and only the outside of mine used Mysis coated)5. Once the mixture is coated, add desired amount of focus to bind the mixture to the food and blend again as in step 4. Keep this blender in the fridge for as long as you need, making sure to that you mix fresh food about once a week/as needed to run out.This worked for me and cured internal parasites in my two clownfish in about 2 weeks.

Like any other creature, your fish can suffer from diseases and parasites. When fish have parasites, they are very contagious. If a fish does have parasites, it is highly recommended that the offending fish be separated from all other aquatic life in your aquarium. Moving the fish from the aquarium to a portable tank is probably the best way to do this. Otherwise, the parasites will most likely spread throughout the aquarium until all the fish are infected. Below is a list of seven parasites that are common in tropical fish:

Fish lice – this parasite is tricky because it is so difficult to detect. This parasite hides by taking on the same color as its host. The host fish will try to get rid of the lice by rubbing its body on rocks, plants, or the side of the tank to try to remove them.

Anchor Worms – These parasites are female and have an anchor-shaped head that they use to burrow into the flesh of their prey. Once they burrow into the fish, the fish may bleed a little where the head is lodged. You may also be able to see a small worm or tentacle sticking out white from where the parasite is attached. Because the head of this parasite is anchor-shaped, it is difficult to remove, and if pulled out by force, the fish may suffer a bleeding wound.

Leeches – Leeches feed on blood and should be removed as soon as possible. Although the leech will leave the fish once it is full, the loss of blood can be fatal to sensitive tropical fish. Pulling the parasite off by grasping can cause regurgitation and allow parts of the leech’s jaw to stick to the wound, increasing the risk of infection. A better method is to use a fingernail to break the seal of the oral teat on both ends of the leech. Start with the small end and then continue with the larger end. The leech releases its jaws once the sucker’s seal is broken.

Flukes – There are two common types: while skin flukes attach to the skin of your tropical fish and cause swelling, gillworms make it difficult for the fish to breathe. The gills will turn pink and the fish will likely remain at the surface of the water where it can breathe more easily. These skin flukes can cause localized sores and swelling.

Ichthyophthirius – The so-called “ich” or “white spot” is the most common tropical fish disease caused by what is probably the most common freshwater parasite. Typical behaviors of an infected fish include loss of appetite, rubbing against objects, blinking, and unusual hiding. Once a fish in your aquarium becomes infected, quarantine is required to prevent the fish from spreading tropical fish disease to the other tank residents.

Piscinoodinium – The microscopic parasite causes “gold rush disease,” named for the golden patterns that appear on your fish’s scales. Once your fish are infected, the tropical fish disease can be treated with copper salts, which will destroy the parasites in your water.

Hexamita – these parasites are also known as hole-in-the-head disease. They are basically internal parasites. These are harmful to your fish when weakened by age, stress or poor water conditions.

Want to learn how to save on treating your pet fish? click here

To avoid any form of parasites and fish diseases, take good care of your fish and the aquarium. Here are some helpful tips:

Parasites are a group of organisms that may or may not cause disease in aquarium fish, depending on a number of factors. Before we learn about the different fish parasites, let’s find out exactly what a parasite is.

Parasites evolved from free-living animals (animals that do not live on or in another animal and do not depend on another animal for their food). They often closely resemble their ancestors, but are better adapted to a parasitic life. Some parasites have evolved organs like suckers to attach themselves to their hosts. Many lay enormous numbers of eggs because the chances of a single egg infecting a new host are incredibly low. Parasites, in general, have biochemically and immunologically altered so that they can survive in another organism and not be digested or killed. Some of them depend on their hosts for compounds that their ancestors could synthesize.

Some parasites are harmful to their hosts, while others are not. A parasite that might be harmful when present in large numbers might not be harmful if only a few have parasitized the host.

The two types of parasites

Parasites are typically divided into two groups: ectoparasites, external parasites that live on the outside of a tropical fish host (including the gills, mouth, skin, and fin surfaces), and endoparasites that live in tissues, blood, and/or organs (including the gastrointestinal tract). tract). Interestingly, we still don’t know exactly how intestinal parasites can survive without being digested with the other contents of the intestinal tract. As you can imagine, the inside of the gastrointestinal tract is a pretty inhospitable place to live – it’s full of acids and enzymes designed to digest whatever passes through it.

Some parasites are transmitted directly from fish to fish, such as B. some ectoparasitic protozoa and skin/gill worms. The life cycles of these parasites can also include a free-living phase if they can be found in the water or aquarium substrate. The life cycle of such parasites is called the direct life cycle.

Other larger parasites often have complex life cycles involving two or more hosts, including a fish. This is called the indirect lifecycle. For example, the spinyhead worm attaches to the intestinal wall of a tropical fish (the definitive host), and after being expelled through the fish’s stool, the worm’s eggs are eaten by freshwater shrimp (the intermediate host), which in turn are ingested by another tropical fish .

It is important to know the difference between the life cycles as it will affect treatment methods and whether you will be successful in treating parasites.

preparation for battle

Find a vet who is knowledgeable about aquatic medicine and is willing to work with you. If you cannot find such a veterinarian, try to find one who is at least interested in aquatic medicine but may be a beginner and encourage him or her to work with you. Almost all major veterinary conventions offer courses in aquatic medicine, and there are many texts and websites that provide excellent information for veterinarians.

Many veterinary labs offer free consultations to the vets who use them, and these can be a great source of information. Parasitologists are also valuable in diagnosing certain parasitic problems. Armed with these tools, along with a basic knowledge of infectious diseases, a good microscope, and a pathologist who can read fish samples, you and your veterinarian can work together to diagnose and treat fish problems.

If you have an infected tropical fish, your veterinarian may try to diagnose the problem using stool samples, skin scrapings and culturing of lesions, or a tissue biopsy for histopathology (this involves examining the tissue under a microscope by a trained veterinarian after the Sample). was cut into very thin specimens and stained with structure identifying agents). In some cases, it may be more diagnostically helpful to sacrifice a single fish showing signs to pinpoint the problem, particularly in cases involving pet dealers, breeders, and aquariums with valuable fish. A single sacrifice like this can save many more fish in the long run.

causes and cures

Clinical signs of parasitic disease in tropical fish can be vague. A sick fish may swim alone or slower and/or on its side. The gills can move faster. The fins may be pinched or droopy, and the fish may lose weight. There may be white patches on the skin or gills, or the tropical fish may rub against aquatic plants, ornaments, or gravel. Some tropical fish appear bloated.

Most parasitic diseases occur as a result of poor water quality. Most parasitic organisms are opportunistic and can be present in small numbers in the aquarium or on the fish at all times, causing disease only when the tropical fish is stressed. The number of tropical fish in an aquarium, water temperature, pH, lighting, type of filtration system, and water chemistry all affect fish health.

Another common reason for parasite outbreaks is inadequate (or no total) quarantine procedures for new tropical fish before introducing them to your aquariums. Many diseases only appear two to three weeks after transport, which unfortunately can lead to serious problems when introduced into an established aquarium. A quarantine aquarium can be as simple as a bare fish tank fitted with a heater and sponge filter. Three to six weeks of quarantine should allow owners to identify diseased tropical fish before introducing them into the community aquarium. During the quarantine, weekly treatments with formalin (25 mg/L) make sense and can in many cases avert serious illnesses.

At the first sign of disease, use a test kit to ensure levels are appropriate for the tropical fish species you are keeping. Also, perform a partial water change, which is an important safety measure. If possible, move sick fish to an isolation tank for closer observation and to prevent the possible spread of infectious organisms.

Me: The most common parasite

By far the most common parasite encountered is the organism responsible for ego. It is also known as white spot disease due to the occurrence of fish infected with this organism. It is caused by the ciliated unicellular protozoan Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.

I often show up as small white patches on a fish’s skin, fins, and gills. Each spot is caused by a parasite that lies just beneath the fish’s transparent skin (the epithelium). The small spots are up to 1 millimeter in diameter, but in severe infections, multiple parasites can combine to form irregular white spots. Heavily parasitized fish show many white spots, often scratch at stones and gravel and can show increased gill movements. Fish heavily parasitized with Ich can also develop secondary bacterial infections as the mucosa and epithelium are compromised, allowing bacteria in the water to invade the skin. The organisms feed on body fluids and cells, and a thin capsule forms over each parasite while it resides under the skin.

I can infect virtually all freshwater fish, including both coolwater and tropical species. The life cycle includes both free-living and parasitic stages. Adult parasites feeding on the host tissues break through the skin and fall off the fish, where they form cysts on the bottom of the aquarium. This is the reproductive stage, and each cyst can divide many times, eventually producing many hundreds of “swarmers,” as they are called during the infection stage. These leave the cysts and swim away to find a fish host. If they don’t find a host within a few days, they die.

The time it takes to complete the life cycle depends on the water temperature of the aquarium. The higher the water temperature, the faster the life cycle. At 70 degrees Fahrenheit it takes about three or four days to complete the life cycle, while at 50 degrees it can take up to five weeks. At low temperatures, the parasite can become inactive for a long time.

There are a number of effective treatments for ego. Because the organism resides under the outermost layer of skin, many treatments are actually aimed at controlling the free-living stages. Diagnosis and treatment should be initiated as soon as the problem is discovered as prompt treatment is essential to control this organism. It can be introduced with fish, live aquatic plants, and live fish food, so proper quarantine can often prevent it from contaminating a community aquarium.

Now that we know the basics about parasites and their life cycles, we will describe many of the more commonly diagnosed infestations in the next issue. The physical appearance of the parasitized fish can help diagnose the specific organism involved, and other testing methods are discussed. Treatments for specific infestations are presented, although it is still advisable to seek the assistance of a qualified veterinarian or aquaculturist. Many commercially available treatments now have a broader spectrum, meaning they can treat many different types of disease-causing organisms. While this can be helpful if a specific diagnosis is not made, medications that treat a range of diseases can result in the treated fish being given unnecessary medication.

We learned about the life cycles of common tropical fish parasites. Before we talk about treatments, let’s give a quick overview of some key ideas that will help us understand what exactly we’re dealing with when it comes to parasites.

types of parasites

Parasites are typically divided into two groups: ectoparasites, which live on the outside of a tropical fish host (including the gills, mouth, skin, and fin surfaces); and endoparasites living in tissues, blood and/or organs (including gastrointestinal tract).

types of hosts

A definitive host is one that harbors the adult sexual stage of the parasite, while an intermediate host harbors an asexual or larval stage. A parasite vector is an arthropod or other invertebrate that transmits the parasite from one vertebrate host to another. infection and infestation. Infection is parasitism by an internal parasite, while infestation is parasitism by an external parasite.

life cycles

Parasites with a direct life cycle are transmitted directly from one fish to another and may also include a free-living phase where they can inhabit the water or substrate. On the other hand, an indirect life cycle refers to a complex life cycle involving two or more hosts, including a tropical fish (eg, a fish and a shrimp), and is often characteristic of larger parasites. I, the white spot disease caused by Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, we have already taken a closer look at. As previously mentioned, I has both free-living and parasitic stages, and while many different treatments are available, the specific treatment must be chosen based on the species of tropical fish infected and the environment in which they are kept. To treat fish parasites, there are some commercially available medications that work well, but others can only be prescribed by a veterinarian.

Drugs or chemicals added to the water are commonly referred to as “bath” treatments. Orally administered drugs are generally mixed with food and are intended to have systemic effects. Spa regimens are the most variable, as a specific concentration of a chemical is added to the water for a specific length of time. Typically, lower concentrations are used for longer periods, or vice versa.

I treatments

I have described the parasite that causes me. Now let’s examine in more detail how to get rid of it.

Often overlooked in favor of other drugs and chemicals often thought to be better and stronger, salt (plain old sodium chloride) is a safe and very effective method of treating ego and many other external parasites. For most purposes, non-odized table salt is sufficient, although there is nothing wrong with using aquarium salts sold specifically for this purpose, such as sea salt or solar salt, salt sold for livestock consumption, and kosher salt.

Salt can be added at a concentration of 2 to 3 parts per thousand (1 ppt = 1 teaspoon/gallon, 3 ppt = 1 tablespoon/gallon; for ponds use 1 pound per 100 gallons) to aid in osmoregulation. This concentration is safe for most tropical fish and protozoa cannot live in this salinity. To treat Ich and some other protozoa, infested fish should be immersed in 30 ppt salt water (the salinity of seawater) for 30 seconds to several minutes — or until the fish rolls onto its side. The tropical fish should then be returned to normal saline water.

To mix this solution, use aquarium water and dissolve 30 teaspoons of salt per gallon. Put the fish in this water and watch it the whole time. Repeat this process once a day for three days, with a 30 to 70 percent aquarium water change between treatments. This treatment differs from most others in that it is used to treat organisms in the skin of the fish rather than the free-living stages in the aquarium.

Lower doses can be used as a continuous bath for the aquarium fish. At 5 to 10 ppt, tropical fish can survive from several hours to several days, effectively killing the ego organisms. A bath of 4 to 5 ppt breaks the ego life cycle and also kills anchor worms and lice. Freshwater fish can survive in this salinity for up to four weeks. A salinity of 5 ppt or more will usually kill live plants.

Formaldehyde (formalin) at 37 percent can be used as a medicinal bath to treat ego and some other protozoa. Use a bath for 12 to 24 hours at a dosage of 1.0 milliliters (mL) per 10 gallons of water. This is repeated every three days for three treatments. A partial water change (30 to 70 percent) should be performed between treatments. Formalin can be added to the display aquarium, but because it is so toxic it is preferable to limit its use to a treatment aquarium. Formalin removes oxygen from the water, so the treated water must be well aerated. It is also a carcinogen (can cause cancer) so anyone using this chemical needs to be educated on how to use it safely. Formalin supplied by veterinary clinics for tissue preservation is over-diluted and not approved by the Food and Drug Administration. Formalin should only be used after consulting a veterinarian. Malachite Green is another treatment for Ich. At a dosage of 0.1-0.15ppm, it can be used as a bath for 12-24 hours. This is usually repeated daily for three days, with a 30 to 70 percent water change between treatments.

Another ego treatment is Victoria Green and Acriflavin. These chemicals are commercially available as tablets that effervesce when dissolved. This formulation is also designed to prevent secondary bacterial infections. One dose may be all that is necessary. However, you should change 25 percent of the water every 24 hours if additional doses are required. Remove activated carbon from the filter during treatment.

For some, copper is the treatment of choice for me. The safe use of copper depends on the total alkalinity of the water. If the total alkalinity is less than 100 milligrams per liter (mg/L), the use of copper sulfate is not recommended. Copper must be dosed carefully. It will also kill invertebrates and live plants.

Increase the temperature of the fish tank during each treatment. This is intended to speed up the life cycle of the organisms, as the treatment aims to kill them in their free-living phase.

Trichodina and related protozoa

Other exogenous protozoal parasites include Ichthyobodo/Costia, Trichodina and Chilodonella, along with monogenetic flukes (such as Gyrodactylus). The most obvious symptom of this is a gray-white film of excess mucus that develops over the body and is particularly noticeable over the eyes or areas of skin with dark pigment. Redness may appear along the flanks and sometimes the gills swell. Tropical fish can move quickly and blink (swim erratically), and they can have breathing problems. However, as the infestation progresses, the fish become listless and lie down on the bottom of the fish tank, occasionally scratching at stones or aquarium ornaments. Usually, excess mucus is caused by more than one organism.

Trichodina and the related protozoa usually cause problems in tropical fish that are overcrowded, stressed, or suffering from poor husbandry. Trichodina temporarily adheres to the skin with an adhesive disk. In large numbers, they damage the skin, becoming parasitic and feeding on it. Ichthyobodo attaches to the gills or fins and feeds on cytoplasm, causing hyperplasia (an abnormal increase in volume of a tissue or organ caused by the formation and growth of new normal cells) of the epidermis and destruction of goblet cells (single, mucous cells). secreting cells).

These should initially be treated with the same therapy as for the ego – these are unicellular parasites (with the exception of the flukes). If the fish haven’t improved within five to seven days, do a 50 percent water change and treat with formalin or an organophosphate insecticide used to remove monogenic flukes (more on this later).

Hexamita and Spironucleus

Hexamita and Spironucleus are two other protozoan parasites commonly found in the intestinal tract of some freshwater fish, although systemic infections can occur. Hexamita is also known as “hole-in-the-head disease”. Small holes appear in the body, especially in the head region, and threads of mucus often pull out of the lesions. Lesions can also develop at the base of the fins and near the lateral line. They have a direct life cycle and are acquired primarily through oral ingestion of trophozoites (the active, motile feeding stage of a sporozoan parasite) or cyst stages.

In addition to skin lesions, fish often lose their food and develop a pot-bellied appearance. They also typically have stringy, colorless feces. Hexamita are often found in small amounts in the gut of tropical fish, particularly cichlids (including discus, angelfish, and oscars) and gouramis. When conditions in the fish tank include stress, overcrowding, low oxygen levels, improper water parameters, temperature changes, or poor diet, the parasites can multiply and the fish can then develop signs of systemic disease.

Hexamita infections are best treated with medicated food – as long as the fish are still eating. Metronidazole can be used for both Hexamita and Spironucleus and is commercially available in flaked fish food. However, because infected fish often do not eat, they typically do not consume an effective dose. In such cases, a metronidazole bath can be used instead, in which the fish is immersed for six to 12 hours with 250 mg of metronidazole per 10 gallons of water. Metronidazole tablets, capsules or liquid can be used to prepare the bath.

Multiple courses of treatment may be required to successfully control these parasites. Of course, as with all infectious organisms, it is always best to prevent introduction into the fish tank in the first place by quarantining and prophylactic treatment of all new stock and keeping your fish as healthy as possible.

velvet sickness

A parasitic unicellular organism known as a dinoflagellate (Piscinoodinium, commonly referred to as Oodinium) is responsible for velvet disease. This parasite has a direct life cycle and has free-living and parasitic stages. The obvious symptoms are a yellow-grey coating on the scales, skin and fins. Fish may flash and show increased gill movement. In advanced cases, the fish becomes anorexic and swims motionless in the water, and the skin may peel off in strips.

A beginner may confuse this disease with ego, but velvety fish look as if they have been sprinkled with gold dust, hence the common name “gold dust disease”. This parasite migrates from fish to fish using a flagellated spore and can live on the fish for at least 24 hours and probably longer (up to several days).

Velvet is usually introduced with new fish and can become a serious problem. Severe gill infestation can kill fish without causing other obvious signs of the disease. It is most commonly found among some anabantids, killifish, and goldfish. The parasite can become lodged in the intestinal tract of fish, making treatment difficult, and long-term control of the parasite can be quite frustrating.

Treatment with ego or velvet remedies can be used. If the fish are salt tolerant, a longer (see Ich Treatment section for recommended duration) salt treatment at 1 teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons of water can be used to eradicate the parasite. Interestingly, since the parasites engage in photosynthesis, keeping the aquarium relatively dark can help during a severe outbreak.

neon tetra disease

Another protozoal parasite, Pleistophora, is responsible for neon tetra disease. A number of fish species are susceptible, but this parasite appears to affect many tetras in particular. Zebrafish and some barbel are also commonly affected by a similar disease.

Heavily infected tropical fish show loss of color (particularly the red stripe in neons), unusual swimming behavior, curvature of the spine, emaciation, and frayed fins. A number of medications have been tried, but none have been entirely effective. Some medications such as B. Combination products on the market containing an antiprotozoal agent and an antibiotic help control secondary bacterial infections.

Monogenetic flukes

Monogenetic flukes are flatworms usually found as ectoparasites of fish. They often have a hooked attachment organ and a simple life cycle, and are barely visible to the naked eye. They often feed on skin and gill tissue, but usually only cause problems when in large numbers. Clinical signs include flashes and skin problems.

Treatments with formalin, praziquantel, trichlorofone (dimethyl phosphate) or salt baths are effective. Formaldehyde can be used as a bath for 12-24 hours at 20-25 ppm (mg/L), repeated every three days for three treatments, with 30-70 percent water changes between treatments (same schedule as for me).

Praziquantel is given as a bath of 5 to 10 mg/L three times for three to six hours. Alternate 30 to 70 percent of the water between each serving. Praziquantel is now available in several commercially manufactured tablets.

Trichlorofone is used as a bath at 0.25 to 1.0 ppm for one hour, repeated daily for three days, with 30 to 70 percent water changes between treatments. A salt bath can be a four to five minute bath, dosed at 30 to 35 grams/L, repeated daily for three treatments, with 30 to 70 percent water changes between treatments.

digeneans

Digeneans are endoparasitic flukes that have two suckers, one on each end. They have an indirect life cycle, with tropical fish acting as both intermediate hosts (with metacercaria larvae) and definitive hosts. Adult aborigines are usually found in the gastrointestinal tract, while the larvae (which may be encysted) are found throughout the body and cause problems when they invade organs such as the eyes or heart in large numbers. The larval stages of digeneous fluke parasites cause black spots on aquarium fish.

Praziquantel is the treatment of choice as a bath for three to six hours, dosed at 5 to 10 mg/L, repeated for three doses, with 30 to 70 percent water changes between doses. This drug can also be dosed in fish feed at 5 mg/kg fish.

tapeworms and roundworms

Tapeworms are endoparasites, with adult tapeworms living in the digestive tract. Tapeworms are most commonly found in newly imported or wild-caught fish. They have an indirect life cycle, with fish serving as both intermediate and definitive hosts. There is a public health concern because some tapeworms can infect humans. Signs of tapeworms can include a swollen abdomen and a fish that appears to be wasting away. Affected fish may also have difficulty swimming.

Praziquantel can be used to eliminate tapeworms from the intestinal tract (same treatment regimen as described in previous section on aboriginal) but does not eliminate those located in the body cavity. Repeat treatment with praziquantel may be needed to completely eradicate tapeworms.

Note that some live fish foods, such as cyclops and water fleas, can be the intermediate hosts of many of these parasites unless you are certain the fish foods came from a fish-free water source.

Roundworms (also called nematodes) can also be found in aquarium fish. They have complex indirect life cycles, and fish can serve as both intermediate and definitive hosts. Nematodes can cause problems for tropical fish (and also for people who become infected by eating raw or poorly prepared fish). Roundworms are reddish brown in color and vary in size. In severe infections, they can protrude from the opening. Nematodes can be found in the digestive system, swim bladder, and body cavities.

Treatment is to interrupt the life cycle and use appropriate medication such as fenbendazole dosed at 200mg/100g fish food in fish food for three days. It may require multiple rounds of treatment, in addition to eliminating all intermediate hosts and improving general hygiene, to remove infectious stages. Piperazine can be used to treat livebearers with Camallanus nematodes. Mix 25 mg of piperazine citrate with 10 g of flake food and feed the fish for five to ten days. Repeat treatment is recommended 10 to 14 days later (dose of 50 to 100 mg/kg body weight).

Fish lice, gill maggots and anchor worms

Some crustaceans are parasites on fish, including the fish louse Argulus and the gill maggot Ergasilus. Both parasites are usually found on newly imported fish. Because they suck blood, they can transmit certain infections between fish.

The fish louse attaches itself to the skin and fins with two suction cups and feeds on the blood of the host. The intense irritation can cause fish to flash and even badly infested tropical fish to jump out of the water. Red lesions appear where the lice have established themselves and this opens the skin to secondary bacterial and fungal infections.

Kiemenmaden befinden sich normalerweise an den Kiemen, Kiemendeckeln und im Mund. Sie sind mehrere Millimeter lang, und der gebräuchliche Name bezieht sich auf die erwachsenen Weibchen mit ihren hervorstehenden, weißlichen, „madenartigen“ Eiersäcken. Das Männchen wird nicht zum Parasiten. Starker Befall kann zu schweren Kiemenschäden, Abmagerung, Blutarmut und Tod führen.

Die Behandlung erfordert ein Organophosphat-Insektizid wie Dimethylphosphat (auch Phosphonat genannt), Trichlorfon und Dimilin. Das Medikament kann in einem Gartenteich oder Aquarium angewendet werden, um sowohl erwachsene als auch jugendliche Krustentierparasiten auszurotten. Bäder von Trichlorfon und Dimilin sind beide wirksam. Dimilin kann als Bad für 48 Stunden bei 0,01 mg/L verwendet werden, bis zu dreimal wiederholt, und Trichlorfon kann als Bad für eine Stunde bei 0,25 bis 1,0 ppm verwendet werden, bis zu dreimal wiederholt.

Ankerwürmer sind ein weiterer Krustentierparasit, länglich mit zwei Eiersäcken am hinteren Ende. Sie betten sich meist in den Muskel der Körperwand ein und dringen oft bis in die inneren Organe vor. An der Anheftungsstelle entwickelt sich normalerweise ein erhabenes Geschwür, und an dieser Stelle treten häufig Sekundärinfektionen auf. Starker Befall kann zu Gewichtsverlust und Tod führen.

Ankerwürmer kommen normalerweise nicht in Aquarien vor. Sie sind am häufigsten ein Problem bei neu importierten tropischen Fischen und im Sommer in Gartenteichen. Männliche Ankerwürmer haben eine kurze Lebensdauer und sterben nach der Paarung; Weibchen sind normalerweise an den Fischwirt gebunden. Eier schlüpfen, um frei lebende juvenile Parasiten zu produzieren, die sich schließlich häuten, um erwachsene Stadien zu produzieren. Die Jugendstadien können mindestens fünf Tage ohne Wirt leben.

Wie bei anderen Krustentierparasiten werden Organophosphat-Insektizide verwendet, um die frei lebenden juvenilen Stadien zu eliminieren. Entfernen Sie erwachsene Würmer mit einer Pinzette und behandeln Sie die Stelle mit einem geeigneten Antiseptikum. Entfernen Sie die Parasiten wöchentlich, bis keine erwachsenen Würmer mehr gefunden werden.

Conclusion

Es ist unmöglich, jede Art von Parasiten zu diskutieren, die Süßwasserfische befallen können, aber die in diesen beiden Artikeln diskutierten sind die am häufigsten anzutreffenden. Bitte denken Sie daran, dass Vorbeugen immer besser ist als der Versuch, Probleme zu behandeln und zu heilen, und Quarantäne ist der beste Weg, um Ihre etablierten Fische zu schützen.

Gepostet von: Chewy Editorial

Beitragsbild: über Katty Fe/Flickr

Praziquantel (dewormer)

what it treats

How to treat

Prazipro

General API healing

Thomas Labs Fish Tapes

Prazipro

General API healing

contains both praziquantel and metronidazole and is an effective substitute for the use of prazipro. (Just don’t follow the 48-hour dosing instructions; instead, re-dose 5-7 days later.) But where General Cure really shines is when it’s soaked in food to kill both intestinal worms and internal parasites (flagellates) to treat. Both diseases share a classic symptom: white, stringy stools. You can also soak Thomas Labs Fish Tapes or just pure praziquantel powder; Note, however, that Prazi only treats intestinal worms. (You would need to soak metronidazole for internal flagellates.) I recommend feeding the medicated food daily for 2-3 weeks, or until symptoms are no longer present. My formula for soaking Prazi (and Metro) is below:

Using a shot glass:

1 scoop (~1/8 teaspoon) of medication

1 scoop Seachem Focus (this makes it reef safe)

1 tbsp food (preferably pellets or frozen food)

A pinch of Epsom salts to drive out dead worms/parasites

A few drops of salt water or fish vitamins

Stir until a medicated nutrient slurry is achieved

Feed after 30 minutes of soaking

Refrigerate or freeze any leftovers for future use

advantages

Disadvantages/side effects

Flukes (Monogeneans), Black I (Turbellarians), and Intestinal Worms. There are some aquarium products that contain praziquantel: and. Follow the dosage instructions for the product you are using. If using praziquantel powder as a pure powder, dose 2.5 mg/L (or 9.5 mg/gallon). Praziquantel in powder form is not readily water soluble and it often helps to mix your dose in a small amount of ethyl alcohol or even regular vodka before dosing your tank then repeat dosing. () The reason for the second dose is to eradicate the “next generation” of worms before they can lay their own eggs. Because while Prazi kills worms, it doesn’t eliminate eggs they might leave behind. If you have a species known to be prazi-sensitive (e.g. exposure time. While praziquantel remains active in the water column for up to 72 hours, it only takes 24 hours to eradicate external worms. Don’t forget to do the second round anyway! Commonly referred to as Considered reef safe although it can kill any tubeworms/dusters you have.It can also eradicate bristleworms.If you have mass amounts of these the resulting die off can result in an ammonia spike.After treatment is complete activated charcoal can be used to remove residue (in case you need to use another medicine next) This is important because the oxybispropanol (solubilizer) in Prazipro sometimes causes a bacterial bloom (cloudy water) when mixed with other medicines If you use a protein skimmer after treatment use, note that it should be “overestimated” for at least a week umt”. Reef safe, effective dewormer that is relatively gentle on most fish. Mild appetite suppressant, moderate oxygen starvation, wrasse are sensitive to overdose. There are Prazi-resistant worms (both external and internal) so sometimes an alternative treatment must be used instead. These include hyposalt formalin (used to treat external worms) and fenbendazole soaked in food to treat prazi-resistant intestinal worms.

Just a quick update. I turned off all carbon/chemical filtration and started dosing Prazi. I should have started with a water change, but of course that didn’t happen. So the water change took place 3 days after starting the treatment, at which point I added extra Prazi to make up for the loss. I researched the process and maintaining oxygen saturation can be problematic during treatment, so I raised the skimmer to its maximum height so it can still oxygenate the water but not pool. After a total of 7 days a 25% WC was performed, all chemical filtration (GFO, Carbon, Purigen) added and the skimmer repositioned. I was also able to use the toilet as an opportunity to do a 1.5 hour paraguard dip. the next day everything looks much better and is colored again. The fish are looking pretty good (except one of the clowns was on the surface briefly this morning and gasping for air). After restoring the chemical filters, I started feeding the feed soaked in Metro and Focus.

One of the clowns still has discoloration on one of the black areas around the dorsal fin and the gills look elongated. That, along with the first signs of a hole in the head, led me to the conclusion of leeches. You, where the spastic movements and elongated gills are a fairly positive indicator of flukes. Since the feces were sometimes white and tough, I further inferred possible internal parasites contributing to poor nutritional intake and weakening the immune system. The flukes should be gone now (although the gills still appear to be elongated and aggravated) and they’re eating the Metro food, so I’ll be feeding it for 6-7 days and then re-evaluate. Hopefully everything will have calmed down by then.

Enter the characters you see below

Sorry, we just need to make sure you’re not a robot. For best results please make sure your browser accepts cookies.

MetroPlex™ is an effective and safe treatment for several protozoal and anaerobic bacterial diseases of fish (Cryptocaryon, Hexamita, Ichthyophthirius). It does not adversely affect the filter bed and is easily removed with charcoal. The risk of overdose is low.

HOW TO USE: Use 1-2 gauges (supplied) per 40 L (10 US gallons). Repeat application every 2 days for up to 3 weeks or until symptoms disappear. Turn off UV, ozone and chemical filtration. To feed, mix 1 measuring spoon with approx. 1 tablespoon of frozen food paste. To minimize loss during feeding, use Focus™. Use with GarlicGuard™ or Entice™ to enhance palatability. Food can be refrozen.