Transfer 78 Rpm Records To Cd? The 7 Latest Answer

Fix it: Some have said it can’t be done, but you can fix a cracked 78 so it can play back without the painful click every turn (or at least minimize the click so it’s not as distracting is). I have used this method to successfully repair 78s with small cracks as well as cracks that extend from the rim to the label. (Successful repair means you can play the record without knowing it has a crack.) This repair also stabilizes the crack. I have used the following method to successfully repair old shellac 78s for playing on old phonographs that use steel needles. Be careful if you try to play the repaired ones on a computer that uses a different type of stylus, as you could damage the stylus if the repair isn’t done very well. This method is useful for repairing clean linear cracks. Repairing edge chips isn’t as successful, and repairing cracks where a lot of material has been lost along the tear line isn’t as successful either, although repairing still greatly improves the quality of playback. Materials Needed: Epoxy (I used Duro Master Mend, others may work as well) Toothpicks Old or new steel needles Steps: Part one: Fixing the crack Working on a hard, flat surface, press the record down on both sides of the crack , and apply electrical tape to the rim where the crack is. Electrical tape sticks much better than regular scotch tape. This step aligns the torn edges and stabilizes them in that position. This step is crucial. If you cannot align the edges flush, the repair will not be successful as you will still hear the click. Mix up a very small amount of epoxy. Spread a thin line of epoxy along the crack with a toothpick. Just leave this on for about a minute. (This allows it to seep into the crack.) Before the epoxy starts to get tacky, use the beveled edge of a new toothpick to smooth down the thin line of epoxy applied in Step 2. Wipe the tip of the toothpick as needed complete this step. Don’t worry about getting this epoxy onto the board surface on either side of the crack as once cured the epoxy will peel off the surface but remain in the crack. Once the epoxy has built up on the first side (about 10 minutes), repeat steps 1-3 on the other side. (If it’s a small crack on one edge you can do both sides immediately as you can hang the wet edge off your surface.) 6) Let the record sit until the epoxy is fully cured. Part Two: Removing the Excess Epoxy from the Record At this point I place a new needle on my exhibition sound box and play the record through the cracked area. This will loosen the epoxy on the record surface. (One could also use a #2 sound box, but I wouldn’t recommend doing this step with an orthophonic sound box, although once the crack is repaired the record should be playable with an orthophonic sound box.). Using the sharp end of a new toothpick, loosen the remainder of the epoxy from the surface of the record. If something resists, you can play the record over the crack again to loosen it further, or use an old steel needle to peel the epoxy out of the grooves. Run the tip of the toothpick along the crack to loosen the loose epoxy. If you got the edges lined up correctly to begin with, you now have a record with a stabilized crack that should be playable with much less distraction. Although the amount of epoxy left in the crack is very small, it forms a very strong bond between the broken edges. I hadn’t been careful enough about aligning the edges on one panel I repaired, so I wanted to rebreak and remake it. However, I couldn’t get the record to break again in the same place and ended up causing another crack. So you’d better get it right the first time. But when the record is cracked and minimally playable, there really isn’t much to lose by trying. Good luck Steve Kaufman Any questions or comments welcome

If you still have a turntable with a headphone jack or connector labeled “line” (or a stereo receiver with a “phono” input for the turntable), a device called a USB phono preamp connects your hardware to audio and USB -Cables to pump the sound into the computer for recording. ART Pro Audio USB Phono Plus ($100) and Reloop iPhono 2 USB Recording Interface (about $100 in the US) are two options.

For USB-based recordings with older turntable systems without a headphone jack or line-out, you will most likely need to fit a separate phono preamp box to amplify the audio signal as well. The $50 Rolls VP29 and the $66 ART Pro Audio DJPRE II are two models to consider.

Digitize tape

No cassette deck? Tape players with USB ports for computers or flash drives can be found online for around $20. These devices can be very efficient for digitizing old lectures, family histories, and other records.

Image Inexpensive tape recorders connect to the computer to digitize tape recordings. Credit…JD Biersdorfer

If you still have a tape deck, check its jacks. A cable with a 3.5 millimeter plug on both ends or an RCA to 3.5mm cable is common to connect to a computer’s line-in port (if you have one), or you can possibly use a USB interface box used to digitize vinyl.

Convert CDs

Still have CDs you want to transfer but don’t have a CD player or computer drive? External USB-based CD players are sold online for as little as $20. Once you connect one, spin those discs up and import the tracks using Apple’s Music app for Mac, Microsoft’s Windows Media Player, or any other free CD ripping app.

If you purchase an independently reviewed product or service through a link on our site, Rolling Stone may receive an affiliate commission.

Digitizing your record collection is a great way to take some of the warmth of analog music with you when you’re on the go. Plus, you can enjoy your vinyl without the risk of scratching or scuffing it.

I’ve digitized hundreds of albums from my collection and it’s one of the most fulfilling music projects I’ve ever undertaken. I have preserved music that is not available digitally and have come to appreciate it much more through repeated listening.

Digitized vinyl doesn’t sound like playing it on a turntable through your stereo, but by creating needledrops (the official term for digitized vinyl) you can recreate at least some of that magic.

How to create needle drops with a USB turntable

Many modern turntables have a built in preamp and USB connection, making needle dropping much easier. You connect the turntable to your computer via USB, open a recording program (we’ll recommend some options later), and start recording.

If you don’t have a USB turntable but are interested in upgrading or getting a dedicated needle drop-only machine, here are a few great options.

1. Audio-Technica AT-LP60XUSB

The Audio-Technica AT-LP60XUSB is a great entry-level turntable for digitizing your records. As the name suggests, it is a combination of the AT-LP60 and a USB connection.

The platter runs at both 33 and 45 RPM (revolutions per minute), allowing you to digitize your albums and singles, and has a button to toggle between the two modes. It also comes with a 45 adapter that you need to insert into the larger hole on your single before placing it on the platter to keep it from moving.

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Whether you’re new to turntables or an old pro getting back into record collecting, the AT-LP60XUSB’s front panel controls will make your life easier. The one on the left changes its speed from 33 to 45 rpm, and the three on the left let you start, stop, or lift the needle off your record. A switch on top lets you choose whether you’re playing a full album or a single, allowing the needle to automatically land in the right place.

On the rear panel you’ll see a switch for phono (using the turntable’s built-in preamp) or line (allows connection to an external preamp), analog output (allows connection to a stereo system) and USB port (allows you to connect to connect a computer). Audio-Technica includes a USB cable so you can set up this turntable and start digitizing your albums in minutes.

2. Sony PSH500

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If you’re really serious about digitizing your recordings with the highest fidelity, you’ll want Sony’s PSH500. This is the turntable I use to make needle drops and I am very happy with the results.

Like Audio-Technica, Sony designed this turntable for vinyl recording, although it’s not as beginner-friendly. It can play 33 and 45 RPM records but doesn’t come with a 45 adapter. There are no start or stop buttons, and the tonearm doesn’t automatically return at the end of your recording.

But what it lacks in ease of use it makes up for in fidelity. The PSH500 can digitize your vinyl records in 2.8MHz DSD – audio resolution higher than High Definition (this is currently the gold standard used by audiophile record labels like Analogue Productions). Recording at this resolution will make your albums sound as analog as possible, capturing every nuance of your record.

Another benefit of this turntable is that you can upgrade its stylus and cartridge – the one that comes with it is already pretty good – for even higher fidelity.

In addition to the USB connection, the PSH500 has a phone and line switch so you can choose between using the built in preamp or using an external preamp, and a pair of RCA outputs (red and white) so you can connect it to a stereo system . It even has a ground wire so you can connect the turntable to a piece of metal to reduce hum caused by electrical currents running through various audio equipment.

How to create needledrops with an analog turntable

If you already have an analogue turntable that you like, there’s no reason to go out and buy a new one with USB only to drop pins. There are two ways to connect legacy devices to a computer.

1. A “Y” cable

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The easiest way to connect your old gear to a computer is to use a standard “Y” audio cable. The cable terminates on one end with a 3.5mm audio plug and on the other end with a pair of RCA jacks forming a Y shape.

To make the connection, plug the RCA plugs into the back of your turntable or preamp and the 3.5mm plug into your computer’s sound cable or line-in port. On laptops, the line-in is generally coupled to the headphone jack. Once everything is connected, you’re done.

This is a simple solution, but it has some disadvantages. First, some computers — especially laptops — no longer have a line-in port because they weren’t widely available after the introduction of USB audio devices. If that’s the case, this method won’t work at all.

Second, the DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) in your computer is not as good as the dedicated ones on turntables with USB ports or a dedicated DAC. The quality of your recordings suffers as a result. However, if you are looking for a quick and easy way to digitize vinyl records using an older turntable, this is your best bet.

2. An ADC (Analog Digital Converter)

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If you want more control over your recordings and really care about the audio quality of your digitized vinyl, consider connecting your turntable to an ADC (Analog Digital Converter). An ADC is specially designed to convert analog sounds into a digital file, making your recordings sound much better.

I’ve used a setup like this before and recommend using an audio interface that musicians typically use to record their music. I used an earlier generation of Focusrite’s Scarlett 2i2 to record music and create needle drops before I bought Sony’s PSH500 and I liked how they came out.

Small enough to fit comfortably on a desk, the Scarlett 2i2 has dual inputs so you can record two tracks at once. For musicians that might mean an instrument and vocals, but for Needledrops it means you can record music in stereo. It can record 24-bit resolution music at 192kHz, which is considered high resolution (better than CD quality).

Using an ADC with an older turntable is a little more difficult than just plugging in a Y-cable, but it’s easier than you might expect. First, connect a pair of RCA to 1/4″ cables from the back of your turntable to the two inputs on the Scarlett 2i2’s front panel. Then connect the Scarlett 2i2 to your computer using the supplied USB cable. That’s it. This process is basically the same as adding a USB port to your older turntable.

While getting an ADC means buying a new unit, the upside is that your Needledrops will sound more professional and you can use the Scarlett 2i2 to record your own music, so you can solve two problems at the same time.

Recording your vinyl on a computer

VinylStudio

Once you have all your hardware ready, it’s time to actually digitize your recordings. There are a lot of really great apps out there, but I recommend VinylStudio. Most recording programs are designed for recording instruments, but VinylStudio was designed specifically for creating needle drops.

The app (available for Mac and PC) is set up to guide you through the entire workflow of creating a needle drop. First, you enter its metadata (album name, artist name, year, genre, etc.) and whether you’re recording a full album or a single.

After recording, you can split the albums into individual tracks instead of one big file. Then you can run each track through an audio filter that VinylStudio created to remove clicks, pops, and other anomalies from your recording. Finally, you can burn your needle drop to a CD or export it as a series of digital files in various formats.

I’ve used VinylStudio to digitize hundreds of albums and every single one has come out perfect. I’m particularly impressed with the cleanup feature, which has salvaged many 50-year-old albums that haven’t weathered the decades very well.

VinylStudio isn’t free, but you can download a free trial and create five Needledrops to decide if it’s right for you.

Would you like to find your records in digital form in your smartphone or computer library? Even if the sound does not correspond to that of analogue playback, you still have the option of digitizing your records. maPlatine.com advises you so that you can digitize your documents properly.

1. Why digitize records?

Before you start digitizing your vinyl records, it is important to know that digitizing vinyl records is a long process that requires a lot of patience. In addition, nothing can replace the sound quality achieved with a turntable. However, there are several reasons why you might want to digitize your recordings.

The first reason is the fact that you may want to listen to your records in a different way than through your turntable. In fact, you can digitize your vinyl records by listening to them in digital format and therefore using different audio sources such as your computer, smartphone, tablet, etc. If you travel regularly and are therefore far away from your vinyl player, this could be the ideal solution to listen to your favorite LPs!

Another reason is if you have rare records or records that mean a lot to you. By digitizing your recordings, you can store them on your computer or even on an external hard drive for even more security. They are therefore well preserved and protected from any incident.

2. How do you digitize vinyl records?

It is possible to digitize your records. However, there are must-have Hi-Fi gear to digitize your LPs. It is also important to follow the steps below to get a good result.

Step 1 – The requirements for digitizing files

First of all, it is important to be properly equipped and have quality products. Certain hi-fi devices are actually better than others for digitizing your vinyl records.

It is also important that your vinyl records and equipment are in good condition so as not to affect your sound reproduction. For example, if your pickup’s stylus is slightly damaged or worn, you’ll hear this when listening to both analog and digital recordings. When your vinyl records are scratched, sound reproduction is severely affected in the same way, regardless of the quality of equipment you use to digitize your records.

Another important point: the cleanliness of your equipment! In fact, to get a quality recording, you need to make sure your vinyl records and styli are clean. By using record and stylus cleaning products, you can remove dust and static build-up. Taking care of your records is essential to achieve optimal sound quality.

Last but not least, you need to download and install software on your computer to digitize your vinyl records in digital format. We recommend using the Audacity software. Not only is it free, but it’s also easy to use.

Here are the following links to download Audacity:

– MAC

-PC/WINDOWS

-Linux

Step 2 – Digitize vinyl records with a USB turntable

The first option is to purchase a “USB” turntable. In this type of product, there is a USB phono preamp built into the turntable. This is how you can digitize your records via your computer.

Today, several hi-fi brands offer USB turntables that allow you to digitize vinyl records. For example, you can choose the Audio Technica AT-LP120X turntable.

In order to digitize vinyl using a USB turntable, you need to connect it to your computer using a USB cable such as the Audioquest Forest USB cable or the Tellurium Q Blue USB cable. All you have to do is connect one end to your turntable’s USB output and the other end to your computer’s USB output. As simple as that!

Once you’ve hooked everything up correctly, all you have to do is open Audacity and start recording! For better sound quality, we recommend recording your files in FLAC, WAV or AIFF format. Thanks to these audio formats, you will not lose any audio data.

Step 3 – Digitize vinyl with a USB phono preamp

If you already own a vinyl turntable, you can add a USB phono preamp instead. Thanks to this USB phono preamp you can digitize your records.

There are several USB phono preamp models on the market, from various Hi-Fi brands such as B. the Furutech/ADL GT40 Alpha preamplifier.

To digitize your vinyl records, you need to place your USB phono preamp between your turntable and your computer. As with any phono preamp, you will need a phono cable to connect your turntable to a USB phono preamp. To connect your USB phono preamp to your computer, you will also need a USB cable.

The process is then the same as that previously explained. Open Audacity and start recording to digitize your vinyl.

Don’t hesitate to take a look at our information sheets on building your music library and storing audio files.

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We hope this buyer’s guide has helped you learn more about how to digitize your vinyl records. For more information, please contact our technicians by phone (0033 299 654 163) or by message.

Would you like to digitize your records but don’t have a USB record player? We’ll show you how to do it with home hi-fi equipment.

USB turntables tend to produce fairly average digital audio files, but you can get good results with high-end devices. Unfortunately, most high-quality turntables don’t have a USB output, but it’s still possible to connect them to a PC through a typical home amplifier. This gives you the opportunity to digitize your record collection without shelling out a new record player.

Free up a large workspace that you can occupy for long periods of time. The conversion is real-time, which means it takes 25 minutes to record 25 minutes of music. Next, make sure the turntable tonearm is weighted and that anti-skate and tracking force are properly adjusted for optimal sound quality. If your records are starting to look a little worn, give them a thorough cleaning. See “Should you clean your records?” in our turntable buying guide.

1x turntable with stereo audio output or built-in stereo audio cable (these are usually red and white).

1x PC or Mac with an audio IN port. This is sometimes referred to as Line IN (Not sure if your computer has a Line IN? See step 2 in Connect your turntable to your computer).

1x copy of the free program Audacity. You can download it here.

1x amplifier or receiver, preferably with a phono IN connector and a stereo audio OUT connector (usually labeled REC). If your amplifier does not have a phono IN connection, you may need to purchase a phono preamp or turntable with a built in preamp. NOTE: Although we will use the term amplifier for the rest of this tutorial, a receiver can perform the same task in its place. Receivers contain a built-in radio, which is the only difference.

Although we’ll use the term amplifier for the rest of this tutorial, a receiver can perform the same task in its place. Receivers contain a built-in radio, which is the only difference. 1x stereo audio cable to connect your turntable to the amplifier/receiver. If your turntable has a built-in cable, you don’t need one of these.

1x Stereo Audio to 3.5mm Stereo Cable or 1x Stereo Audio Cable with 3.5mm Stereo Converter. This connects your amp/receiver (stereo end) to your PC or Mac (3.5mm end). The 3.5mm end must be capable of recording in stereo. Check the pen, if it has two black lines it will record in stereo. If it has one, it records in mono, which is not suitable. Stereo to 3.5mm cable

Stereo to 3.5mm converter

Stereo to 3.5mm converter

Do I need to buy a preamp?

If your turntable and amp don’t have a built-in preamp, you’ll need to buy an external one. These range in price from around $150 up to $25,000! The following setups may or may not require a preamp, and those that do probably don’t really require a model in the tens of thousands.

How to check if your home HiFi system has a phono preamp:

Amplifier/Receiver: On the back of the device, look for a connector labeled Phono. This is a special connection for turntables with a built-in preamp. These are standard on pre-CD devices and fairly common on older devices built after CD became the standard format. Modern amps vary, with the exception of high-end models which usually include a phono input.

: On the back of the device, look for a connector called Phono. This is a special connection for turntables with a built-in preamp. These are standard on pre-CD devices and fairly common on older devices built after CD became the standard format. Modern amps vary, with the exception of high-end models which usually include a phono input. Turntable: Check the manual. Older turntables generally did not include a built-in preamp, as this feature was common on home amplifiers. It’s much more common on new models, but it can be difficult to determine whether these turntables use an industry standard equalizer or cheap imitations, especially on inexpensive models.

If your amp has a phono input or your turntable has a built-in preamp, you don’t need to buy an external one. If your turntable doesn’t have a preamp and your amp doesn’t have a phono input, you’ll need to buy a preamp. Note, if your turntable has a built-in preamp, do not connect it to the phono input as this would unnecessarily apply equalization twice. In this case, either connect your turntable to a different port or turn off the turntable preamp, both options are fine.

Check out our turntable buying guide for more information.

Create a folder to store your audio files while editing. WAV files are quite large, around 30MB per track, meaning an entire album can be 300MB or more. Make sure you have enough space on your hard drive before you begin. Connect your turntable to the phono input of your amplifier using the stereo audio cable. Next, connect the amp to your computer with the stereo to 3.5mm cable, plugging the stereo end into the OUT port on the amp and the 3.5mm end into the IN port on the amp computer stuck. Phono IN

Audio OFF / REC

This is an example of a PC audio input. Note that they are not always blue, but usually display the icon below the port (circle).

This is the audio IN port found on an iMac and some versions of the MacBook Pro.

My computer has no Line-IN.

Some desktops and laptops don’t have a Line IN port, but there are a few workarounds:

Buy a Line IN to USB converter or a USB sound card. They vary in price depending on the design and audio output quality.

Try the microphone port. Many computers combine Line IN and Microphone IN into a single port. They automatically detect the connected device and adjust the internal audio settings accordingly. Unfortunately, there’s no way to tell if this feature is included on your computer without recording and listening to test audio.

If your computer has Mic IN and Line IN connectors, do not use the Mic connector to record audio. The equalization settings differ from Audio IN and are not suitable for recording music. This can result in poor digitized audio quality.

Identify the turntable

Right-click the audio icon in the system tray next to the clock and click Recording Devices. Look for a device with Line In in the description, right click on it and select Set as default device to ensure your PC only records audio from the turntable.

Right-click it again and click Properties, followed by the Advanced tab, and then click the drop-down menu under Default format. Here select 2 Channels, 16 Bit, 44100 Hz (CD Quality), click Apply, close the windows and return to your desktop.

Open Audacity and go to Transport > Rescan Audio Devices. This will tell Audacity to recognize your turntable. Look for four drop-down menus on the right side of the toolbar and click on the second drop-down menu next to MME. The second toolbar displays a list of input devices. Choose the option that includes Digital Audio (S/PDIF) in the title. Surrounding text varies by computer and turntable model. If this isn’t available, select the first available option, and then follow the steps in Test the settings. If you don’t see the waveform, stop recording and choose another option from the drop-down menu.

If your computer still can’t detect the turntable, check the connection using the steps in Identifying the turntable and rediscovering audio devices.

Identify the waveform

Digital audio is presented as a long blob with a series of vertical spikes protruding at the top and bottom. This is called a waveform (pictured). The thicker the blob, the louder the volume and vice versa.

Spikes show high peaks, such as B. crashes of cymbals, and low depths. Flat, thin lines indicate silence. These are usually a good identification point for the beginning and end of each song.

Test the settings

Now it’s time to check for interference. First, press record (the red circle in the top left corner of the screen), turn on your turntable, but don’t start playing the record. Have Audacity record silence for about 20 seconds.

Click on the waveform, press play and listen for noise such as: B. Hum. This can be caused by poorly shielded electronics near your turntable. If you hear interference, pinpoint the source by turning off surrounding electronics and test recording until it disappears. If there are no glitches, delete the audio file and repeat step one, but this time play the recording. Stop recording after 20 seconds, then listen to the audio on your computer. When you’re happy with the sound quality, delete the test file and get ready to digitize the entire album.

In Audacity, press Record, then play the album as usual to begin digitizing. The conversion is real-time, which means 25 minutes of music takes 25 minutes to record. When side A is done, turn the record over and repeat the step above to record side B, but don’t stop Audacity from recording. When side B is done, stop recording in Audacity and remove your recording. You should see a large waveform in Audacity. Click on it, press play and listen to a short example to check for obvious errors.

Adjust the volume

You may find that the volume is quite low when you first record. If it is, follow these steps to strengthen it.

Go to Effect > Boost to open the Boost window. Audacity should automatically generate an ideal gain level, but you can increase/decrease this by moving the slider. However, Audacity does not allow you to increase the volume past the point where the audio is corrupted unless you enable Allow clipping. We do not recommend this.

Click Preview to check the volume. If you are happy with the settings, click OK to apply.

Clean up the sound quality

Now it’s time to clean up the digital audio. The first step is the potential application of RIAA (Recording Industry Association of America) equalization. This is an industry sound quality standard for records (including vinyl) that has been in effect since 1954. Some turntables have built-in RIAA equalization in the preamp, meaning that digitized files coming from these players do not require an additional RIAA application in Audacity. Check your turntable’s owner’s manual for RIAA information. If it’s not there, you may need to apply RIAA equalization. First press Ctrl + A to highlight the waveform, then go to Effect > Equalization, click the drop-down menu next to Select Curve, click RIAA, then click OK to apply the equalization.

Listen to a few tracks for about 10-20 seconds each. If you’re happy with the sound quality, leave the RIAA in place. If you preferred the audio before applying RIAA equalization, press Ctrl + Z to undo the preference. It’s up to you and your ears whether you want to use RIAA or not. The next step is to remove clicks and pops. Go to Effect > Click Distance to set click/pop restrictions. Threshold detects clicks. A lower number increases detection sensitivity, but if you push it too far, Audacity can start removing elements from the music, affecting sound quality. Peak width is similar, except that a higher number corresponds to greater sensitivity. Play with these settings and press Preview to hear an example. When you are satisfied with the sensitivity level, click OK to apply the settings.

Unless you want to export an entire album as one long digital audio track (you won’t do that), you’ll need to export each song individually. First find the start point of a song in the waveform, left click on it and then highlight the waveform until you reach the end point of the song by holding the left mouse button and dragging it to the right. Once it’s highlighted, go to File > Export Selected Audio, browse to the folder you want to save it in, enter a filename, then click the Save as type dropdown menu (at the bottom of the window) and choose WAV (Microsoft) signs 16-bit PCM. Then click Save to open the metadata window. Enter Artist Name, Track Title, Album Title and Track Number here, then click OK to export the track.

Check for errors by playing the WAV file from beginning to end. Repeat these steps for each track.

What about MP3?

It’s best to export files in lossless WAV quality, but Audacity can also export to MP3, a compressed format suitable for portable music players like iPods and smartphones. Audacity does not include an MP3 encoder due to licensing restrictions, but you can download one called LAME through Audacity for personal use.

Follow the cut and export steps (above), but instead of WAV, select MP3 files from the Files of type drop-down menu, then click Save. After entering the metadata, a Locate LAME window will open. Click Download to open an online guide from Audacity showing you how to download and import the LAME MP3 encoder (or click here). Note that LAME is not available for free in all areas. Restrictions are described in the Audacity Legal Notices.

One of the advantages of vinyl records is the superior sound quality compared to streaming. However, there is a downside; Portability. Let’s face it, getting vinyl records to a beach is a hassle, even though it can be done. There are many other reasons you might want to convert vinyl to digital as well. Posterity is an important one. No one wants to lose their beloved collection due to an unforeseen disaster. There is no denying that digital formats are easier to replicate and share. For DJs and producers using digital studios, it is sometimes necessary to copy samples from vinyl records. Fortunately, there is a way to transfer the warm sound of vinyl records to MP3s and other (better!) digital formats without sacrificing sound quality.

Steps to convert vinyl records to MP3s and other digital formats

Clean the record. Find a turntable that can convert vinyl to digital, or use a preamp. Connect the required recording devices. Open compatible audio recording software. Record by playing the vinyl. Split the tracks in the recording software. Export individual tracks in a lossless audio file format.

Clean records

There are quick and more involved ways to clean vinyl records, but given the noise pollution caused by dust and dirt on vinyl records, you should make a commitment to doing it properly. If you are pressed for time, there are only a few steps you can take to get vinyl in good enough condition. First, remove dust and static electricity from the record by using a record brush that removes static electricity. If a record has fingerprints or other visible marks, use a solution and a clean, dry rag to remove them. Make sure the surface of the record is dry before you start recording. For a detailed description with suggested cleaning solutions and more detailed steps, see our vinyl record cleaning guide.

Find a turntable that can convert vinyl to digital via USB, or use a preamp.

Gathering the gear can be the most difficult step, especially if you don’t have a USB-capable turntable. There are two options here:

Use a turntable with a built-in USB drive. You don’t need any additional equipment, proceed to the next step.

Bypass one that doesn’t by using an additional audio interface.

Options for turntables without a USB drive

You must first identify the output, either line or phono, of the turntable.

If the turntable has an output labeled Line or a headphone jack, you can record using an inexpensive audio interface. An audio interface is a device that allows turntables, instruments, and more to be connected to computers and can also enhance the sound recorded through them. If you want to do more than record vinyl and value sound quality, you should invest in a high-performance audio interface. Note that many DJ mixer booths and some amps have built-in audio interfaces, which allows you to bypass purchasing a separate interface.

or a headphone jack, then you can record with an inexpensive audio interface. An audio interface is a device that allows turntables, instruments, and more to be connected to computers and can also enhance the sound recorded through them. If you want to do more than record vinyl and value sound quality, you should invest in a high-performance audio interface. Note that many DJ mixer booths and some amps have built-in audio interfaces, which allows you to bypass purchasing a separate interface. If the turntable only has a phono output, which is most common on older turntables, you’ll need two pieces of equipment to rip vinyl to digital formats without loss of quality. In addition to the line-out audio interface mentioned above, you may need a phono preamp. This will help decode the audio and match it to the computer’s line level recording. There is one exception here – if you have a stereo receiver, you may not need the phono preamp. You can connect the turntable to the phono input of the stereo receiver, connect it to the tape output and audio interface, and then connect it to the computer.

Note: While convenient, USB turntables can get a bad rap from audiophiles. They’ll get the job done, but if you’re serious about maintaining the best quality, upgrade your specs with an audio interface.

Prepare the turntable and connect the necessary equipment

This step is easy enough if you have a USB turntable – just connect the two.

For turntables with a line output, connect the audio interface to the computer and the turntable.

For phono outputs, connect the turntable through a stereo receiver (input phono, output tape) or a phono preamplifier.

Tip: Replace the turntable stylus if you haven’t done so recently, this will only improve playback quality.

Open compatible audio recording software

You have options here, especially if you have some cash to part with. Whether you’re using a MAC, PC, or Linux, if you’re looking for free recording software without the clutter of built-in standard operating system options, download Audacity. It’s free, open source, and can export audio losslessly.

Record by playing the vinyl with ready audio software

Drop the pen and let computers do the work. This should go without saying, but don’t hit stop between tracks. Instead, play the entire part of each side and split the tracks in the next step.

Share every track

This is software specific, but look for the flat lines in the waveform and judge what’s the best cut there. For all my ambient friends out there, make sure you cut in the right place because flatlines don’t mean the song is over! Checking track lengths on Discogs is never a bad idea in such situations.

Export all tracks in a lossless file format

There is much debate about which file is best to preserve audio quality. I’ll save most of this discussion for another blog post. You should avoid lossy files like MP3s as they lose quality when saved. If you’re using Audacity, export the tracks as .wav files, which are saved losslessly. It is best to research which file types are lossless compressed before exporting your tracks. Save your tracks and albums using naming conventions that make sense to you. Organization that is considered up front and often will save you a lot of frustration in the future.

Like our instructions? Let us know what you want to know about next in the comments.

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Despite being one of the most enduring physical music formats out there, neglect your records and you risk introducing surface noise, scratches, or even distortion. With these dangers in mind, tech guru Paul Rigby explains how to properly store a record collection.

For many years the top issue of the anti-vinyl brigade has been the noise that vinyl makes when played. The pops, crackles, pops, background hiss, clicks and more. People who don’t like vinyl point the finger at this issue as if it were a design flaw.

It’s also an old chestnut that ignores many factors, largely due to a lack of basic cleaning and proper storage. If you don’t store your vinyl properly, it will affect the sound quality of playback very quickly. It’s easy to prove the point yourself. Just buy a clean, new record, listen to the silence of the first few games, pop the record out of its case, open to the elements, pick it up with dirty fingers, use it as a frisbee and a coaster and, well, well yeah, blow my mind, you got a raucous record. That’s not rocket science, is it?

Of course, that’s not all, if you don’t store your records properly you also open up the possibility of excessive wear, warping and abrasion. The record itself is not the only goal. Part of the joy of buying vinyl is the sleeve, which often includes beautiful artwork as well as legible and informative sleeve notes. Without proper storage, your sleeves can become bent, wrinkled, worn out, water damaged and more.

You pay a lot of money for a new piece of vinyl. Take care of it and it will reward you with a lifetime of joy. So how should you store your vinyl?

Step One: Inner Sleeves

Recommended product: Analogue Studio 12″ inner sleeves

Price: £15.99 [50 pack]

Buy: www.analogeseduction.net

The inner sleeve is the only item listed here that will regularly come into contact with your valuable vinyl. Therefore, it is indispensable as a storage medium. The worst kind is made of pure paper. As you move your record in and out of a paper interior, it acts like a fine-grained piece of sandpaper over the years, adding surface noise to your record. Suggested inserts come in two flavors, either a delicate plastic insert in a paper insert, or an all-plastic, round-bottomed variety. The latter is useful because you don’t have to struggle to get the corners of a paper into the card sleeve, which causes folds and creases.

Step Two: Outer Sleeves

Recommended product: PVC outer sleeves

Price: £17.50 [50 pack]

Buy: www.covers33.co.uk

You need an outer shell to accompany the inner one. This protects your vinyl’s card sleeve, but also prevents dust from finding the record (and rubbing it off over time). Be careful here. Don’t buy the thick-walled plastic samples and feel complacent about them. When squeezed, these thick plastic sleeves can eventually stick to the record sleeve and peel off the artwork right away. Stick to the soft, roomy, and much cheaper sleeves. You can also find outer sleeves for 10 inch records and 7 inch singles.

Step three: vinyl pouch

Featured Product: Mylar Cases

Price: £32.99 [100 pack]

Buy: www.snvinyl.co.uk

While we’ve been talking about the outer plastic sleeve for your record protector, we have to mention a new twist on the subject. The vinyl bag. Made from high quality 2mm Myler, it fits snugly like a standard outer case, but the top of the case has a large flap and adhesive strip on the outside. While a standard plastic sleeve stays open on one side, the Mylar pouch protects the record but also keeps air and flying debris out.

Step Four: Shelves

Recommended product: IKEA KALLAX

Price: £85

Buy: www.ikea.com

Now that your recording is included, where do you put it? A shelving system is essential. One of the best in terms of budget and flexibility is the IKEA KALLAX. It can be bought in a variety of sizes – the example shown here is the largest model available – while variants have inserts to hold baskets and boxes or space for a TV. This model holds around 2,300 LPs. Good value for money. One thing though, if you buy this model and pack it full of records, the accumulated weight will cause it to tip over and collapse like a deck of cards. You’ll need to add strength, so invest in some sort of metal brackets to solidify the overall structure. For example L-shaped brackets to reinforce each shelf, which can cost a few pounds for a pack of two, or even metal crossbars at the back.

Step five: record dividers

Featured Product: Kate Koeppel Vinyl Record Dividers

Price: from £150

Buy: www.soundfowndations.co.uk

Once you’ve stuffed your IKEA shelf with vinyl records, you probably have no idea where anything is. The classic solution to this is a set of cheap plastic record dividers that you can scribble the alphabet or music genres onto to give a sense of cataloguing. Cheap but messy and definitely tacky. Kate Koeppel is a US-based designer who has launched a collection of understated, high-quality, laser-cut wooden record dividers as an alternative. The collection of typographic wood panels includes: two tab styles, horizontal tabs for shelves and vertical tabs for record boxes; two sizes for 12″ and 7″ records; two typographic versions, a full twenty-six panel A-Z set for large record collections and an abbreviated six panel set (A-D, E-H, I-L, M-P, Q-T, U-Z) for smaller collections, and two font styles: engraved or stenciled.

Step 6: Archive storage

Product recommendation: Really Useful Plastic Storage Box 19 litres

Price: £12

Buy: www.amazon.co.uk

If you’re looking to archive your records for long-term storage and stacking where quick access isn’t a priority, then a top-down box (as opposed to a side storage rack) is the answer. Cardboard boxes are not strong enough. Robust plastic is the answer. The Really Useful Box range is ideal. This 19 liter model pictured holds around 50 records for easy portability. Additionally, vinyl can become too heavy for safe lifting. The handles are strong with a pattern on the lid that allows for sturdy and stable stacking with other boxes of this type.

Step Seven: Mobile Vinyl Box

Recommended product: Citronic CVA50

Price: £40

Buy: www.juno.co.uk

The storage does not have to be for static purposes. You can save records for mobile purposes. What happens if you want to transport vinyl? How do you protect them? This Citronic box is just one of many “flight cases” on the market. You might have your own favourite. This example is a strong aluminum variant that holds up to 50 LPs. It comes with an interior padding, while on the outside of the case there are chromed steel corners that provide extra strength and protection. You also get a padded carry handle and a lockable lid closure.

Step Eight: Vinyl Bag

Recommended product: UDG Bag

Price: £35

Buy: www.decks.co.uk

The record bag is another type of mobile storage but different from the flight case type. This example features a main compartment that can hold 40 vinyl albums. It is useful for vinyl fans or DJs who always want to have their precious or valuable discs close at hand, or for example for transporting discs to friends. More expensive models have additional pocket and storage options, while their larger wheelie bags are also a good choice for DJs with more time to fill.

Illustrations: Abigail Carlin