Can I Use 20 Volume Developer With Demi Permanent Color? Best 47 Answer

DEMI PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

Shine

Refreshes previously tinted hair

color correction

mix tones

Timed coordination

Additional Advice

Demi-permanent formulas are ideal for boosting, refreshing or darkening hair color (either natural or previously colored). These formulas typically last up to 6 weeks and therefore offer less bonding than permanent hair colors. Common uses include: Clairol Professional Crème Demi Permanent Hair Color is ammonia-free and mixes gently with low volume developer (1:1 ratio) Penetrate the cortex for a deposit that lasts up to 6 weeks. Because the developer is engaging and mild, the hair stays in optimal condition. Demi-permanent hair color is the fastest growing color category in the industry due to its versatility. It is great for shining or refreshing previously toned hair for added vibrancy and shine and is essential for color correction. Clairol Professional Crème Demi Permanente is the choice for refreshing the ends of previously tinted hair. Permanent hair color is only applied to the regrowth; then crème demi permanente is applied to the tips. Formulate 1-2 levels lighter than the target for a balanced result. In addition, the use of Clear Mix Tones ensures an even tint on previously toned, often faded and porous tips. In the past, “soap caps” were used to refresh permanently tinted hair. This technique involves the permanent hair color formula used in regrowth, water and shampoo. The results are often drab, muddy or brown, and repeated exposure of alkalized hair to ammonia causes damage. Crème demi permanente, however, contains SOY4PLEX, which provides care and a healthy shine. It is available in 13 intermixable shades in 3 tone columns: neutral, ash and gold. There are also 2 mix shades: Warm and Clear, for endless formulation possibilities. Clear Mix can dilute any formula to ensure even deposition even on porous hair. Used alone, Clear Mix can lift up to 1 level. Cool Mix is ​​a blue base that can tint any formula or create reddish purple tones when mixed with Reds. Clairol Professional Crème Demi Permanente can be applied to damp or dry hair. Timing is up to 30 minutes or 45 minutes for optimal gray blending (up to 50%). Always string test for timing. Thorough rinsing is required and the hair can be lightly shampooed and conditioned afterwards. Clairol Professional Crème Demi Permanente Dedicated Developer is a mildly buffered formula, volume 10. This gentle formulation is recommended for best results with Crème Demi Permanente Color.

hair care

Learn some of the most fascinating facts about hair developers

Joico Vero K-Pak Cream Brightener

There are some interesting facts to learn about a hair developer. It’s no longer just a way to cover gray hair; It can also transform your hair with stylish and appealing colors. However, do not dye your hair at home without reading this to avoid making mistakes that could damage your tresses. This is a product that is mixed with color to activate it and allow it to penetrate the hair cuticle. It contains hydrogen peroxide and will lift or set off the paint. You have to mix a developer with a base ingredient like a hair dye or bleach to activate it. This developer allows the color to achieve the expected result by opening the cuticle to allow the color to penetrate. It also determines the resulting color; Therefore, you should make sure that you choose the right developer. In addition, it disperses the current color and, depending on the strength of the hydrogen peroxide formulation, can lift the hair color level. The hair developer content relates to its oxidation potential. Most hair color formulas will work with a level 10, 20, 30, or 40 volume developer. The 10 volume developer is a standard oxidation level for non-buoyant permanent hair color. It is designed for use when you want to add a tint or tint to the hair with the same level of brightness. It also opens the hair cuticle layer, allowing the dye molecules to enter and deposit in the cortex. The 20 volume developer opens the hair cuticle, but unlike 10 volume, it lifts the hair by one to two levels. For example, if you have more than 50% gray hair, the 20 volume developer is the only developer that can be used for 100% gray coverage and long-lasting color. The 30 volume developer also works like 20 volume, but it lightens the hair to original color by two to three levels and is more efficient when the desired color is no more than two levels lighter than the original color. Choose a 30 volume developer if you want a stronger developer for a lighter and deeper color. The 40 volume developer is the strongest and has the potential to bring about significant changes. It lifts your hair four shades and is suitable for blondes, especially high-lift colors. You can use a 40 volume developer if you want to achieve a medium to dark blonde. You can also use it with bleach for better results. However, use it carefully to avoid any side effects that may occur due to its strength. Dyeing your hair yourself is easy if you do it with care. Start by mixing the color and conditioner in a 1:3 ratio, making sure you make just enough to saturate your hair. Then wash your hair gently with shampoo and dry before applying petroleum jelly or your personal hair protectant to avoid color stains. Next, add color to your roots as you work your way down through the hair while saturating it evenly. Finally leave it on for 15 to 40 minutes. We recommend trying the Joico Vero K-Pak Creme Lightener for $23.99.

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It is said on the internet that you can lighten hair with developer alone or with a mixture of developer and shampoo. However, it’s not always a good idea. Read our guide before trying this DIY trick. You will thank us later.

You can lighten hair with developer, but should you?

Lightening your hair color usually means mixing bleach powder and developer, and then applying the mixture to your hair. But what happens when you take bleach powder out of the mix and just use pure developer?

In fact, as people are discovering, you can only lighten your hair with developer. But you have to do it right so as not to cause serious and permanent damage to your hair. The volume of developer you use is important, as is the length of time you leave it on your hair and how you apply it.

So while you can only lighten your hair with developer, it does require a bit of finesse and expertise to do so in a way that won’t damage your hair or give you unwanted results. Don’t worry, we cover everything you need to know about this bleach-free whitening method and more in our guide!

We’ll start with a closer look at the developer, what it is and how it can work to lighten your hair without bleach. Then we’ll talk about the types of results you can expect when using this method (how many levels does developer alone lift your hair?) and cover the pros and cons of using developer without bleach.

Read on to find out how this method works and what you should know before trying it!

What is a developer and how does it work?

Hair Developer is a hair dye and bleach containing hydrogen peroxide. The role of the developer is important: it opens the outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle, to allow the chemicals in hair dye or bleach to penetrate deeply and oxidize.

Without a developer, bleach powder will not lift your hair color to a lighter shade. But what about using non-bleach developer to lighten hair?

You can lighten hair with developer and without bleach as long as it’s the right strength or volume. This is because developers contain hydrogen peroxide, and peroxide oxidizes the existing melanin pigments in the hair, resulting in a lighter color.

If you’ve ever used a color-removing product on your hair and noticed that your hair underneath had turned slightly lighter than your natural color, it was due to the subtle lightening (oxidizing) effects of hydrogen peroxide in the color remover.

What amount of developer lightens the hair?

Developers come in different volumes, or strengths, that indicate how much hydrogen peroxide they contain. For traditional dyeing and bleaching, stylists choose the amount of developer you need based on the dye or bleach to be used, your desired results, and your hair type.

For non-bleach whitening purposes, you need to know what volume of developer is safe and effective to use. The most common developer volumes are 10, 20, 30, and 40, but for best results, use either a 20 or 30 volume developer to lighten your hair.

10 volume = 3% peroxide

20 volume = 6% peroxide

30 volume = 9% peroxide

40 volume = 12% peroxide

10 volume

Typically, 10 volume developer is used to apply hair dye – not to bring hair color to a lighter shade. It’s only 3% peroxide, so a 10 volume developer just doesn’t have enough power to noticeably lighten hair color in one session, especially without bleach.

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However, success has been reported using 10 volumes of developer or a bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide daily for a week or so to achieve a color that is 1-2 stops lighter. You can also use 10 volume developer when applying a hair color that matches or is darker than your current level.

Overall, the 10 volume developer is safe to use for lightening purposes, especially on fine/quick lifting hair at the roots, but it’s not very effective.

20 bands

Next comes a 20 volume developer which is twice as strong as a 10 volume developer with 6% peroxide. Using 20 volume developer will lighten your hair even without bleach due to the lifting effect on the outermost layer of your hair (the cuticle).

Applying 20 volume developer to your hair causes the cuticle cells to swell and lift. When you combine developer with bleach or dye, this opening and lifting of the cuticle layer allows the dye or bleach to penetrate deep into the strands.

Without bleach, just a 20 volume developer can lighten your hair by about one level. So if you currently have a level 5 light brown, using developer alone with 20 volume can lift it to a level 6 dark blonde.

We recommend using 20 volume developer to lighten your hair – it’s safe, doesn’t cause too much damage and has noticeable results.

30 volume

A higher volume developer of 30 is stronger than a 10 and 20 volume developer because it contains a higher percentage of hydrogen peroxide (9%). It has a stronger oxidizing and therefore lightening effect on the hair. Unfortunately, this also means that 30 volume developers are much more damaging to the hair.

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Developers with 30 volumes will give you more lift than 20 volumes. You can achieve up to 2 levels of lift when using 30 volumes of developer alone, or up to 4 levels of lift when using 30 volumes with bleach.

Since 30 volume developer is much more damaging, you have to be very careful about how long you leave it in your hair. It has a stronger lifting ability so it further prys up your cuticle and can cause hair to become prone to dryness, frizz, breakage and flaking. Scalp and skin burns can also occur.

Overall, we do not recommend using 30 volume developer to lighten hair without bleach unless your hair is healthy and requires at least 2 levels of lightening. If you think your hair can withstand the increased damage the 30 volume developer does, this is certainly an effective way to lighten your hair up to 2 levels.

40 volume

It’s not a good idea at all to use 40 volume developer to lighten hair without bleach. Ask any stylist. This powerful 12% peroxide developer is the most damaging to hair and is only used when a high level of lift is required. You can achieve 5-8 levels of lightening by mixing 40 volume developer and bleach.

Leave the 40 volume developer usage to the pros. With this high level of hydrogen peroxide, there is too much risk of burning your scalp and skin. If you leave it on for too long (sometimes even 20 minutes is too long) it will absolutely ruin your hair.

Many women report having to resort to a big cut and start over after damaging their hair with 40 volume developer combined with bleach. If you take one thing away from this guide, it should be: “Don’t use 40 volume developer to lighten hair.”

Pros and cons of hair lightening with developer

Now that you know how developer works to lighten hair color, let’s talk about the pros and cons of using the developer-only method. There are pros and cons to lightening your hair with non-bleach developer.

Pros (what we like)

Here’s why you might consider using non-bleach developers to lighten your hair color.

May be Less Harmful to Hair: Using 10 or 20 volume developer will do much less damage to your hair than bleaching it with a higher volume developer. Lower volume developers don’t open up the cuticle layer as much, limiting the amount of damage done to the strands.

Achieve 1-2 level lift: If you are looking for a lighter hair color, using developer will help you achieve 1-2 level lift. So if you are currently a dark blonde, the developer alone could take you from dark blonde (level 6) to medium blonde (level 7) or light blonde (level 8).

Subtle but noticeable results: If you’ve ever hated making a bold change to your hair, lightening your color with developer is a lot safer as the results are subtle. You can achieve a color that is 1-2 shades lighter than your current color. So it’s striking, but not shockingly different.

Inexpensive: The developer is inexpensive to buy — around $3 to $10 per bottle. Since all you need for this whitening method is developer (or developer and your favorite shampoo), the total cost is very small compared to buying bleach powder and developer or going to a professional salon.

Works Fast: If you use 20-30 volume developer, you can get lighter results in 20-30 minutes. Avoid leaving the developer on your hair for too long as this can cause major damage to your hair, scalp and skin.

Cons (What we don’t like)

Here are the reasons why using developers to lighten your hair color can cause problems.

Potential Serious Damage: If you don’t fully understand the chemistry behind hair color lightening, you risk irreparably damaging your hair, scalp, and skin. The “best case” scenario for developer damage is hair that feels rough, porous, frizzy, dry and prone to breakage. The worst case scenario is burns to the scalp and skin. Know the risks before trying this method.

The results are permanent: the peroxide in the developer permanently changes the color of your hair as it oxidizes the natural melanin pigments in your hair. This keeps your hair the color your developer made it until you cut, bleach or color it. If you hate the results, the fact that they are permanent is a major downside.

You only get 1-2 levels of lightening: if you have dark hair and want to go blonde, the developer just won’t cut it. You can safely only achieve up to 2 levels of lightening when using non-bleach developers to lighten your hair. For many people, 1-2 levels are not enough to get the desired results.

Timing is everything: If you lose track of time while developer is sitting on your hair, you will do serious damage. Experts recommend not leaving the developer on your hair for more than 30 minutes, but 20 minutes is a safer turn-off time.

Lighten hair with developer

You’ve read the pros and cons. If you’re still convinced that bleaching your hair with non-bleach developer is the way to go, you need to make sure you’re doing it safely and effectively. Below is a full step-by-step guide on how to do this.

If you plan on lightening your hair with developer only (no bleach), you’ll need to find a cream developer (sometimes called a cream developer) first. Cream developers have a conditioner or lotion-like consistency. This makes it easy to apply the developer directly to the hair without messing around with liquid developers. Make sure you start with clean, dry hair.

You need:

Bottle of cream developer (20 or 30 volume)

Color brush (or toothbrush for highlights)

Small bowl

shower cap

hair clips

directions

First, use hair clips to divide your hair into 4-5 equal sections. This will ensure that you can evenly cover all of your hair without missing any areas. Next, add enough developer to the bowl to cover your head – you can always add more to the bowl as you work.

Dip your tinting brush into the developer and start applying it about 2 inches below your roots. This gives you a natural, low-maintenance shadow root result that doesn’t need to be touched up anytime soon.

Use the brush to evenly apply the developer to each area you want to lighten. Try to saturate each section but make sure you don’t leave too much developer on your hair. Cover your hair with a shower cap when you’re done applying.

Set a timer for 20 minutes. Check your hair to see how it’s progressing. When it has reached the desired level of lift, rinse out the developer and follow with shampoo and conditioner. If it’s not quite there yet, you can let it sit for up to 10 minutes longer. Be sure to rinse it out thoroughly.

Dry your hair to see the end result – depending on the amount of developer used, it should be 1-2 shades lighter than the color you started with.

Should you lighten your hair with developer?

Lightening your hair with just developer will work. But is it a good choice for your hair? The answer depends on a few factors. Let’s take a look.

Is your hair healthy or damaged? Healthy hair is by far the best candidate for the developer lightening method. It offers better resistance to damage from peroxide, which lifts the outer layer of hair and makes it more porous. Applying developer to lighten damaged hair to a lighter color can cause extreme damage that will need to be clipped. Skip this method if your hair is already damaged.

Do you have the right accessories? Make sure you have everything you need to do this method correctly the first time. Start buying a developer with 20 or 30 volumes – never with 40 volumes. If you don’t have a coloring brush, it’s worth getting one to make sure you get an even application. Make sure you have clips to trim your hair for best results.

How light do you want to drive? This method is great if you just want to go a notch or two lighter. If you’re hoping to go more than 2 shades lighter – or if you’re trying to go light blonde – you should skip this method and opt for bleach and developer instead.

What will you do if you hate it? Lightening with developer does not produce dramatically lighter results, but may reveal orange or brassy tones in some hair colors. Think about how you deal with it if you hate the results because they are permanent. Your backup plan could be a darker dye to cover it up, bleach to lighten it further, or purple shampoo for subtle toning effects on light hair.

Do you feel comfortable DIYing your hair color? Some women are already super comfortable coloring their own hair and experimenting with methods like this. But if you’re feeling insecure or nervous about messing up your hair, go with your gut. You can always go to a professional to lighten your hair. This ensures you get the results you want.

It’s your hair – only you can decide whether this method is worth trying or not. If your hair is healthy, you have the right tools, you’re willing to follow the instructions above to the letter, and you’re confident you can do it, let’s say go for it.

If you’re not entirely convinced of the developer-lifting method, that’s okay. You can always keep your current color, try a different color with an at-home color kit, or visit a salon for a new look. Whatever you decide, one thing is certain: you will look fabulous.

Click here for frequently asked questions. Can you lighten hair with just developer? It is better for your hair not to mix developer with bleach. Developer contains hydrogen peroxide and activates hair color or bleach. Your results will be more colorful and intense if you use bleach, so you need to use a large amount of the developer to get a noticeable lift. Can you remove hair color with developer? Yes. Developer mixed with shampoo removes hair dye. Since the developer will lighten the hair, you should color your hair again after removing the old color. Note that this blend fades permanent hair color, not removes it. Use a moisturizing shampoo as the peroxide in developers damages hair. How to use developer with hair dye? Combine developer and dye in a bowl in a 1:1 to 1:2 ratio. Mix well and apply to hair from tips to roots. Developers open the hair cuticle and allow color to penetrate, so color lasts longer when a developer is used instead of hair color alone. Is developer the same as bleach? no The developer activates the bleach when the two are combined. Applying this mixture to the hair provides up to five levels of lightening. The developer alone only lightens the hair up to two levels. Bleach is more damaging to hair than developer, so using a good conditioner is important. Should I shampoo my hair after coloring it? Wait at least three days before shampooing. During this time, the color can penetrate and solidify, especially with temporary colors. Finally, when you shampoo your hair, be sure to rinse with cold water to avoid stripping the color as quickly.

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What is the difference between permanent and demi-permanent hair color?

Demi-permanent is like a lip stain that’s gorgeous until it gradually fades, and permanent color is, well, permanent.

The reason we color our hair is as diverse as the colors themselves. Some people want to cover the grays, change their hue, or go for a bold look like a pastel or fantasy color. While we don’t all have the same color needs, we all crave a gorgeous hair color when we strut out of the salon. At our color consultations, we often discuss what type of color formula — permanent or demi-permanent — is right for your hair.

Why wouldn’t you want the color to be permanent?

In our chair we discuss the use of non-alkaline paints when not required. When we use the term permanent versus demi-permanent color, many customers wonder why you wouldn’t want your color to be permanent.

While both permanent and demi-permanent colors share the same color molecules with the same longevity and retention, the key difference is: permanent color changes your own hair PERMANENTLY. Demi-permanent, on the other hand, does not change your own base color. Our professional stylists advise you not to worry about how long a color will last; but what the permanent change in your hair could mean. Read on as we clear up any confusion about your hair color.

What is demi permanent hair color?

Demi-permanent hair color is ammonia-free. This means that when dyed, the molecules get under the outer cuticle of the hair shaft, but do not penetrate the strand. Instead, demi-permanent color formulas wrap around the hair’s cuticle, essentially creating a coat of color that gradually washes out.

How long does a demi permanent color last?

Demi-permanent hair color is between a semi-permanent and a permanent hair color. It contains an alkali to open the outer layer of the hair and lift the cuticle; It also contains a small amount of peroxide that will slightly affect your color. This type of formula lasts about 12 to 24 washes.

Depends on your hair and the products you use between salon trips. After that, the color is completely washed out.

Who will love a demi permanent hair color?

With less effort, you can enjoy the color and reapply when needed. If you don’t like the tone the way you initially thought, you can slowly wash it out and then choose another custom color that feels better. Your hair may also suffer less damage because the color doesn’t fully penetrate the cuticle.

What is permanent hair color?

Permanent hair color, as the name suggests, is permanent. When applied to your hair, it adds pigment to your natural hair, allowing the color you choose to replace it.

Permanent hair dyes do this by opening the cuticle to let the formula into the hair follicles and deposit the permanent color. Technically, a permanent color never really goes away, but the color will eventually fade over time and can be over-dyed with a new shade when you’re ready for another color change.

Who will love a permanent hair color and why?

get lighter

Permanent hair color works well for lightening virgin hair (hair that has not been previously colored) by up to two shades without the need for bleach. Save yourself time and an extra step of complexity by opting for permanent hair color during your visit to our salon.

Large Gray C Transition

Because permanent hair color changes the color of your hair, it’s great for covering gray tones! Permanent color not only covers or blends the gray, it has the power to actually transform the strands from gray to a different color. During your individual color consultation we will look at your hair and if your hair is more than 25% gray your colorist can recommend a permanent hair color.

Can you switch from demi to permanent hair color or vice versa?

You can! If you’re starting out with demi-permanent color, switching to permanent color is definitely an option for you. Of course, the transition from permanent hair color is a bit more complex. This is because you are changing from a fully opaque color.

If you want to cover the gray you can really see the difference as demi permanent hair color offers less coverage. But depending on the color and as the demi-permanent color fades, your white strands can resemble glittery highlights.

Get your color on

During your color consultation, we will talk to you about your hair goals and which hair color will work best for you. Your stylist will make sure you understand the coloring process and how to care for your new hairstyle.

Check out some of our favorite looks in the portfolio and on Instagram to get inspired by the color palette in our color arsenal. Then visit Tribeca Salon’s convenient locations throughout Tampa for a look you’ll love from our passionate hair colorists! Call today for an appointment! South Tampa: 813-250-0208 Ybor: 813-242-4080

By now we’re well acquainted with the difference between balayage and highlights, and we’ve familiarized ourselves with the latest techniques, including oil slick paint and palm tree painting. Still, there’s a lot to do when it comes to the basics of color. Of course, the effort of figuring out the facts of our color falls by the wayside when we sit back, relax, and read a glossy paper while our colorist works. For anyone who has ever had their hair colored, ask yourself: did my colorist apply a semi-permanent hair color? Or semi-permanent’s cousin, demi-permanent? Ahead, colorist Chris Greene of Los Angeles’ Meche Salon, and editorial colorist Mauricio Bermudez, who manes models like Katie Moore and Stella Maxwell of Suite Caroline Salon in NYC, explain the differences between semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair color.

Semi-Permanent Versus Demi-Permanent Hair Color: What’s the Difference?

Mauricio Bermudez: Demi-permanent color is a color that requires a developer or a low level of peroxide to activate. It manipulates the natural hair to darken it and can change the tone of the hair from cool to warm. Demi-permanent color can also penetrate the hair shaft far enough to blend gray hair without leaving a strong line of demarcation.

Chris Greene: Semi-permanent hair color is hair color that contains no ammonia and only deposits. The color covers the outside of the hair and doesn’t change the color as much as it changes the tone. This type of color usually lasts between five and 12 washes. You may have heard semi-permanent color referred to as “toner”, “stain” or “gloss”.

Chris Greene: Ideal candidates would be anyone mixing greys, refreshing their existing color, adding highlights or looking for a corrective color as it is slightly stronger than a semi-permanent color. And refresh faded ends.

Mauricio Bermudez: Semi is ideal for anyone who wants to maintain their hair color between color visits. A perfect example is Christophe Robin’s Shade Variation Care Masques, which contain a minimal amount of pigment and can prevent blondes from turning yellow, reds from fading to drab and brunettes from oxidizing and turning red/brass. Semi-permanent color is also great for people who like pink, purple, blue, and every other color in the rainbow. I create custom semi-permanent color masks for clients who require a lot of maintenance between visits.

Chris Greene: Semi-permanent hair color is great for someone who is coloring their hair for the first time or is unsure about committing to a color and wants a subtle change. You can’t make drastic changes with semi-permanent color.

Does one last longer than the other?

Mauricio Bermudez: It really depends on a person’s porosity and level of tonal vibrancy. Both demi- and semi-permanent hair colors are technically supposed to last between four and six weeks. But in my experience, demi-permanent colors last two to five weeks, and semi-permanent colors start fading after the first shampoo post service. The lasting effect of both hair colors depends on the vibrancy of each color, the health quality of each person’s hair, and the frequency with which they shampoo their hair during the week. The type of cleansers/shampoos used will ultimately determine how long each type of hair dye will last and look fresh, so I always recommend quality shampoos.

Which one is better for someone who likes to change their hair color often?

Chris Greene: If you like changing your color more often, Semi might be better for you. It fades out of the hair a lot more and is easy to remove if necessary. I would say it’s best to get your colorist’s opinion when discussing demi-permanent versus semi-permanent. Every hair is different. Your colorist can make the right and best choice for you based on your current hair situation and lifestyle.

No matter what type of dye you choose, you’ve probably wondered how often you should dye your hair. Find out HERE once and for all!

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Choosing the right developer strength and mix is ​​really important for the final color result.

Bullet Point Summary – Proper Use for Developers

The rules for developer selection with Ugly Duckling colors

Use 10 vol for level-on-level coloring and darkening.

Use 20 vol for 1-2 levels of lift, to tone blonde hair and to cover gray hair.

Use 30 vol for 2-3 levels of lift

Use 40 vol for 3 levels of lift and more.

The recommended mix for our hair color is 1+1

The rules for choosing developer with Ugly Duckling bleaches

Use 20 vol for up to 3 levels of lift and for the regrowth area (hair processes faster there due to the warmth of the scalp)

Use 30 vol for each 3-level lift.

Do not use 40 vol with Ugly Duckling bleach. It is not necessary as our bleaches soak up very quickly.

The recommended mix for our Bleach 1+2

The rules for choosing a developer with ugly duckling cream and liquid toners and with high-lift colors

Use 20 vol for Ugly Duckling cream toner and high-lift colors (anything starting with 100).

The recommended mix is ​​1+2.

Use 7, 10 or 20 vol for Ugly Duckling Ammonia Free Liquid Toners depending on the buoyancy required.

The recommended mix for liquid toner (Blondify) is 1+1.

HOW TO MIX BLEACH AND COLOR WITH DEVELOPER – WATCH VIDEO:

This is a 2 step technique: bleaching on the offspring followed by a blonde color job.

Watch this video up to the end: you will see both a bleach mix (Brilliant Blonde Blue Bleach) and a color mix (10.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde)

Both mixes correspond to what we recommend from Ugly Duckling Color: 1:2 for the bleach and 1:1 for the color.

Our colorist, Elona Taki, is an experienced colorist and she pours her developer in on sight.

However, we recommend if you are new to coloring that you do not water by sight.

For best results, use mixing bowls or a scale.

Hair by Elona Taki.

1. What does the developer do with the hair?

Hair Developer is essentially hydrogen peroxide formulated in a cream base to make it more cosmetic and gentle on the hair and scalp.

The developer activates the hair color and bleach.

It helps the color or bleach open the hair’s outer layer (the cuticle, in other words) and allows the mixture to penetrate the hair shaft.

Hair developers are usually formulated in different strengths, ranging from 5 vol and 7 vol up to 40 vol.

Developer strength refers to the oxidation potential of the developer, or how much hydrogen peroxide it contains.

2. What are the commonly used developer strengths?

The higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the more “boost” you’ll get with your developer.

The most commonly used strengths are as follows:

10 volume developer with 3% hydrogen peroxide is used for no-lift hair color, tone-on-tone and tone-down applications.

20 Volume Developer with 6% Hydrogen Peroxide is the developer strength most commonly used by colorists in salons.

It lifts hair a notch or two, allowing color or bleach to penetrate and do its job.

Ugly Duckling recommends using this strength for most permanent color applications with 1-3 levels of lift.

We also recommend you use this for blonde toning applications as well as gray hair coverage.

We also recommend you use 20 vol when performing bleaching applications near the hairline or scalp.

Hair is processed extremely quickly here and you should not use a stronger developer strength here.

The 30 volume developer with 9% hydrogen peroxide is the right one if you use high buoyancy color or bleach on the lengths and want a lift of 3 levels and more.

40 Volume Developer with 12% hydrogen peroxide should only be used in really stubborn hair situations and only on the lengths – never on the scalp. It has extremely strong lifting power, but because it opens the hair cuticle so far, it can unnecessarily damage the hair cuticle.

Sometimes stylists want to use this with hair bleach to make their clients very very blonde – for example to lift it 7 or 8 stops. We advise you not to do this if you are using Ugly Duckling bleach as it has been formulated to only lift very well at 20 and 30 vol developer strengths.

3. So how do I know what developer strength to use?

First, look at the hair color chart below to find out where your client’s hair is currently located.

Your goal is to give your current hair color a number.

Use the left-hand side of the chart below to find out where your natural hair color (virgin hair) falls on a scale of 1 to 10.

If you have lengths that have previously been bleached or dyed, you can use the right side instead.

For example, if your hair is orange, you are at Level 5 Light Brown.

If there is a lot of yellow/orange, you are somewhere between level 6 and level 7.

If you only see yellow, you are at level 8 or brighter.

Next, find out what level you are aiming for.

Use the table below to get your bearings.

For example, if you choose a true blonde color, the answer would be either a 9 or a 10.

Choosing a dark or medium blonde color means choosing a level 6-8.

For example, if you choose a warm, vibrant fashion color like red or pink, you need to get the hair to at least level 7.

And if you choose, for example, a cold fashion color such as blue, gray or purple, then you need to bring the hair to at least level 9.

Finally, subtract the two numbers to find the required level lift.

So let’s say your regrowth is level 5 and you are trying to make this hair blonde.

That would mean that you would have to raise it by 10-5, which is 5 levels. So in this case you would need to use 20 volume bleach followed by a 20 volume color too.

Make sure you do this calculation for each section of your hair as your regrowth could be one stage and your previously colored lengths could be another.

4. Do I have to use the same brand of developer as my color or bleach?

Not necessarily. As long as the developer is cream based and fresh, it will work well with any brand of paint or developer.

However, it is important that you choose the correct strength of developer and follow the correct mixing instructions.

These can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

When using Ugly Duckling paints, toners and bleach, follow the directions given here and you will get excellent results.

5. How do I mix 20 vol developer with hair color?

Mix developer and color in a plastic mixing bowl.

Experienced colorists can get the developer mix right by simply pouring it in and looking at the mix – but we don’t recommend this!!

Use a scale or the markings on the bowl to set the correct mixing ratio.

Keep stirring or use a whisk until you get an absolutely creamy smooth paste.

Ugly Duckling colors are designed to have very good product saturation, but you need to get the mix right.

This is what a mix of Ugly Duckling paint and developer should look like:

Hair Color & Developer Mix:

6. How do I mix 20 vol developer with bleach?

Mix using a scale or the markings on the plastic bowl.

If you are using the Ugly Duckling bleach spoon, you can use the same spoon to measure out the developer.

The Ugly Duckling Scoop is 1 oz. For every scoop of bleach you need 2 scoops of developer.

This is what a mix of Ugly Duckling bleach and developer should look like:

Brilliant Blonde Blue bleach and developer mix

Brilliant Blondexx Bond Protect Bleach and Developer Mixture:

7. What if you use the developer alone?

You will manage to open the cuticle and allow some of the hair’s natural melanin to come out.

You will lighten the hair to some degree by doing this. But the color result will be very imperfect and we do not recommend it.

You’ll end up only having to color one more time to get it right, and multiple applications of the developer will cause unnecessary damage to your client’s hair.

8. Why use 20 vol for toning?

Toning is level to level, so 10 vol, right?

Um… not so fast!! Not if the hair has been pre-lightened incorrectly.

See the images below:

As you can see the hair is really brassy in some places, dark blonde in fact.

As a hairstylist, you really should use bleach first to lift the dark areas. That would be the right thing.

You could use Ugly Duckling’s Intense Pearl Blonde Toner at 20vol instead & that would work too as Ugly Duckling’s Intense Toners have a boost.

What wouldn’t work is toning at 10 vol for this hair type.

9. Why use 20 vol developer for gray hair coverage?

So when I do gray hair coverage it’s level on level. So I use 10 vol, right?

Um… again… not so fast!

If you have 25% gray hair or less than 10 volume is fine.

But again, the fact that the 10 volt developer doesn’t penetrate deep into the hair cuticle will penalize your bottom line.

For more than 25% gray hair, we recommend 20 vol instead of 10 vol.

They will soften the cortex more and deposit color pigments deeper, not just coat the outside.

The hair color also lasts longer.

Featured Products Purple Duo Small $60.00 / $40.00 Buy now

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner $12.00 Buy Now

Intense Silver Blonde Toner $12.00 Buy Now

10. How much developer should I use for Ugly Duckling Color, Toner & Bleach?

The recommended mixing ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.

The recommended mixing ratio for Ugly Duckling Toner (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde, Pearl Blonde Toner, Silver Blonde Toner) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.

The recommended mix for Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors (anything starting with the number 100) is also 1 part color to 2 parts developer.

The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Brilliant Blonde) is 1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts developer.

11. Do I get a boost if I use more developers?

No, it does not work out this way.

Regardless of the strength you use, the mixture should always remain the same.

People sometimes think they can use more developers to get a bigger boost. Not true.

You can add a little more developer if you want a smoother mix to work with quickly.

You can also add slightly fewer developers. a thicker mix to perform balayage techniques.

These two cases will be discussed later in more detail.

But in general, if your hair is too dark and you want a lot of lift, you need to adjust the developer strength as above, not the mix.

If that doesn’t give you the lift you want, the answer is to use high-lift color or bleach, not add more developer!

12. Does more developer make the bleach mixture stronger?

No, it won’t. All bleaches are designed for a specific mix.

Ugly duckling bleach works very well with a 1:2 mix and will give you the boost you need.

Use 20 vol developer for the root area and 1-2 level lifts and in most cases this should be perfect.

For higher lifts, use 30 vol developer. For very dark hair, reapply as needed.

You should never have to use 40 vol developer with Ugly Duckling bleach and we don’t recommend it.

Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde mixed with 30 vol developer in a 1:2 mix.

This fairly fluid mixture is easy to apply, gives you good product saturation and allows you to work quickly.

13. What happens if I put too much developer in the paint?

Your mixture will become wetter and more liquid.

If it’s way too runny, you may end up lightening the hair but not applying enough color. It becomes thinner, flatter and doesn’t last as long.

14. What happens if I don’t add enough developer to the paint?

Your mixture will be too dry and you will not be able to properly saturate the hair with the product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.

They won’t bring out enough of the hair’s natural melanin.

This means you may have darker hair than you wished for.

15. Are there cases where it’s a good idea to use additional developers on purpose?

Adding more developer will give you a more liquid solution.

This is helpful when you really want to saturate (cover hair in product) very well and evenly. You get a more even color result and avoid stains. This is particularly important in full-head applications.

A more liquid solution allows you to work quickly. This can be an important factor if your client’s hair is long and you want to give all hair the same processing time from root to tip.

Very often experienced colorists tend to use a more liquid solution for the reasons mentioned above. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling actually use fairly fluid mixes (see below). Working fast is of course very important in a salon and helps them achieve consistent results from root to tip.

Even if you are working with a more liquid solution, aim for a maximum mix of 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:2.5 for Ugly Duckling Lighteners (Brilliant Blonde) and Toner. Any more and you could affect the color results.

16. Are there cases where it makes sense to intentionally fill in too few developers?

It’s helpful when you’re doing a balayage technique (free painting with a coloring brush) and want to position the color precisely and don’t want any product to drip off the brush.

Balayage artists tend to work with thicker color blends. This helps to avoid applying too much product at once and thus avoiding visible demarcation lines.

It will also be helpful when you want to cover gray hair and your client is having trouble covering gray hair. You get a darker color result but can improve gray hair coverage.

Even if you choose a less liquid solution, aim for a minimum 1:0.8 mix for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde) and toner.

17. How long does the developer keep?

You must discard your developer bottle within 12 months of opening it.

In any case, developers don’t last that long in a busy hair salon!

Care must be taken to always store developer (and also ink) in a cool and preferably dark place away from direct sunlight.

18. Does developer bleach?

No, the 2 have very different chemical properties.

Bleach contains persulfates and is designed to remove color from hair.

Think of developers as activators. You need developer to activate the bleach.

You will also need developer to activate hair color.

19. Does developer damage hair?

Excessive chemical treatment damages the hair. If you need to lighten or color or tone, do it once and get it right.

That would be our motto.

USING DEVELOPERS – OUR LAST WORDS

Choose your developer power based on how many levels you need to climb.

Don’t try to short-cut the staining process by either using a higher developer strength than you should be using or by adding more developer than you should be using – we guarantee it won’t work!

If you need to lift more than 3 levels you will need to use bleach or a high lift color before toning.

Use 10 vol for less than 25% gray coverage and to get darker.

For everything else, 20 or 30 vol should be the natural choice.

With Blondify liquid toners you have the flexibility of 7 vol, 10 vol and 20 vol, but make sure the hair is well pre-lightened.

In general, ugly duckling products are designed for stylists who want to make their clients’ hair blonde and very blonde. Follow the coloring rules we provide and you will get excellent coloring results.

Featured Products Purple Duo Small $60.00 / $40.00 Buy now

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner $12.00 Buy Now

Intense Silver Blonde Toner $12.00 Buy Now

Video of a toner and developer mix

In this short video you can see the application of Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V with 20 Vol Developer.

Stylist Ashley made a mix of 1 part toner and 2 parts developer – which is what we recommend for toner.

It allows you to work fast – and in this case our model’s hair was super long and we had to work fast.

The toner stayed on our model’s hair for a total of about 20 minutes.

Hair by Ashley Betancourt.

Watch Ugly Duckling Hair Color 10.1b Color and Developer Application video:

In this video, stylist Brittney applies 10.1b, which is a color.

The mix here is 1 part paint to 1 part developer.

You can see the thickness of consistency our stylist achieved with this blend.

The color was left on for the full 30 minutes to bring out the full richness and intensity of this very unusual blue based ash blonde colour.

Hair by Brittney Perez.

WATCH THIS VIDEO TO LEARN FROM A DARK BROWN TO A BLOND IN JUST ONE SESSION:

Hair by Ashley Betancourt, NY

Looking for your personalized guide to choosing a developer (including the full recipe)? Then go here:

https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/developer-choice

Tuesday September 14, 2021

Peroxide, developer, oxidizer, all these names have the same meaning, but…

What exactly is developer?

Developer is simply hydrogen peroxide. Different companies will use different additives, but at a basic level, hydrogen peroxide’s job is to lift the hair’s cuticle. The stronger the developer, the more the cuticles open up and the more lightening of the natural pigment they have.

Volume and use:

5 volume

5 Volume is becoming a more commonly used developer but is often paired with semi and demi permanent color lines as it has minimal effect on cuticles and settling. The hair is no longer virgin and it alters the natural tone a bit but does not provide gray coverage or lift. Its role is an activator for color and is typically used in developers made specifically for glazes and toners.

Pro Tip: When used with bleach, Volume 5 can create a very slight shift in the hair, which is great for brittle baby hair that only needs 1-2 levels of lift.

10 volume

10 volume slightly opens the cuticle and allows moderate penetration of color molecules. Similar to Volume 5, Volume 10 with permanent color lines can be used to apply color but doesn’t offer much gray coverage or lift. If the hair is a finer fabric it could go beyond a slight lighter shift in the base color and gray mix. 10 volume is also the standard developer for many toners and glazes, but keep in mind that this higher volume developer means a possible shift towards the natural base colour. If 10 volumes are used with bleach, there may be 1-4 levels of lift depending on bleach, application method and hair.

20 bands

20 Volume is probably the most used developer in the salon. 20 volume gives 1-2 levels of lift when used with permanent hair color. It is the standard developer for gray coverage, but a stronger developer may be required for more resilient hair types. 20 volume should not be used as a developer for toners or glazes, especially if a natural base is to be obtained. When used with bleach, Volume 20 is a powerful tool that lifts 1-9 levels depending on bleach, application method and hair type/history. 20 Volume is the highest developer level to use on scalp with bleach as the scalp produces more heat and increases the power of the developer.

30 volume

The 30 vol developer is ideal for lightening 3 levels of permanent hair color depending on the texture and natural depth of the hair. It can also be used to cover gray on more resilient hair types. When used with bleach and foils, 30 Volume works fast and can risk overprocessing. This developer is more ideal for outdoor processing.

40 volume

40 Vol Developer can be used with permanent hair color and high-lift color to achieve 4-5 levels of lift depending on the strength of the color and texture of the hair. We do not recommend using 40 vol with bleach.

Does it really matter if I used the same developer as the color or can I use a generic developer?

Since the main active ingredient in a developer is hydrogen peroxide, any developer should work with almost any line of paint. HOWEVER, many color lines spend years formulating a specific developer to work optimally with their color formula and therefore lift, tonality, longevity and consistency can only be guaranteed when the ideal partner products are used. Because Eva Professional Color is a mix of gel and cream, we have developed a liquid/cream developer with a lighter texture to give our product a creamy, silky texture when applied. It causes the cuticle to open and brings soft color to the cortex of the hair. We always recommend using our developer with Eva color.

Pro tip: Since our color has a softer texture, using our developer will make your color even more intense. If you use a thicker developer, the color will be thicker and penetrate the cuticles less.

Finally, measure the required amount of developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Measuring the right amount ensures better coverage of gray hair, longer-lasting color and the right amount of lightening. Never guess, even if you are an experienced colorist. A baker does not estimate the amount of flour for a cake, he will weigh it no matter how many times he has baked cakes before!

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Have you ever wondered why your hair color is in two parts and why they don’t work until you mix them together? Well, one of the tubes contains the actual color and the other is a hair color developer.

And one doesn’t work without the other.

But what is hair developer? Why do you need to mix it with your paint? Can it damage your hair?

There are several different developer volumes and each of them has a different function.

Some of them can be more harmful than others. Some lift your hair more easily, while others are made for the deposit. Oh… and some lend themselves better to gray coverage than others…

This ultimate guide to the different volumes of Developer will answer all your questions…

*This post contains affiliate links, which means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase after clicking the link, at no additional cost to you. This helps me to provide the best possible content on this website for free. Remember, I only link to quality products that I use myself and that I believe will be beneficial to my readers.

Please read my full affiliate disclosure for more information.

What does the developer do?

The hair dye developer lifts the cuticle of your hair just enough to allow the color to enter or exit the hair. If you don’t mix the developer with your hair dye, the color molecules wouldn’t be able to penetrate the hair and would simply wash out.

Developer volumes refer to how much peroxide this developer contains. In addition, the amount of peroxide determines how far the hair cuticle opens during the process.

hair level:

First things first, we should talk about the layers of the hair. This will make it easier to understand how the different developer volumes work.

As you can see, hair color levels are measured on a scale of 1-10.

Level 1 is black and level 10 is a very light blonde. As the hair becomes lighter, it has a higher level number. For example, medium brown is level 4.

Just to clarify, this doesn’t explain the hue; It’s just a way of measuring how light or dark the color is.

When coloring your hair, you need to determine your current level along with the target level.

Tip: You can usually find the target level by looking at the number on the hair color you are using. For example 5N means your end result should be level 5 with the right amount of developer.

Learn more with my guide to reading hair color numbers/labels.

Withdraw vs Deposit

It is also important to determine whether you want to withdraw or deposit.

Lift means that we “lift” the hair color to a lighter level. For example, if your hair is brown and you want to go blonde, you need to lift it.

Incorporation means that we incorporate hair color molecules into the hair to make it darker.

You also need to determine how many boost or deposit levels you want to reach. Going from a brown level 5 to a blonde level 8 requires you to lift your hair three levels higher.

Remember that virgin hair color (hair that has never been colored) reacts very differently than colored hair. Read more about the golden rule of lightening hair color.

The different developer volumes:

• Developer at 10 volumes (10V / 3% peroxide) deposits color and darkens hair. It works by opening the cuticle just enough for pigment to deposit. So if you’re using any type of color where you just need to apply color with no lift (including most hair tonics), this is what you need to use.

• 20 volume developer (20V / 6% peroxide) is most commonly used. First of all, it is optimal for covering gray hair. Also, you would use it to stay anywhere near the height your hair is already at or to raise 1-2 notches.

• 30 volume developer (30V / 9% peroxide) lifts hair up to 3 levels higher and is commonly used with lighteners.

• 40 Volume Developer (40V / 12% peroxide) lifts hair up to 4 levels. It’s often used with lighteners or high-lift blondes. Some high buoyancy colors even require double 40V for extra buoyancy. Remember that 40V used with a lighter can be tragically damaging if misused.

Less commonly used developer types:

There are some other less commonly used developer volumes like 5V, 15V, 50V, 60V etc. Based on what you just learned you should be able to figure out what each of them does.

Disclaimer: I would never recommend using anything higher than 40V. However, there is a 120 volume developer in which you can dilute to make any other strength. That sounds pretty awesome, but keep in mind that it’s hard to get as most shipping companies can’t transport it.

Sounds like something you want to get your head around, doesn’t it?

General FAQ

What are the different volumes of the developer? The 10 volume developer is said to deliver pigment to the hair without lifting. The 20 volume developer is designed to lift hair 1-2 levels. The 30 volume developer lifts hair 3 levels and the 40 volume developer lifts 4 levels. Which volume developer should I use? It depends on what you want to achieve. If you go darker, you should use 10 developers. 20-40 developers can be used to raise 1-4 levels. 20 developer is best for gray coverage. Does 30 developer lighten hair? 30v developer lightens hair up to 3 levels. Do I have to use 40 volume developer for dark hair? Depending on how many levels of lift you want to achieve, you can use a 40 volume developer on dark hair. Can I use 10 volume developer to lighten hair? 10V developer is for settling and will not lift hair.

Final Thoughts

If you’re into DIY hair color, you need to formulate your hair color properly. One of the most important aspects of mixing your paint has to do with using the right amount of developer.

Some developers are designed to lift color while others just apply color. If you have gray hair it is important that you use a 20 volume developer for optimal coverage. If you tone your hair, you probably want to use a 10 volume deposit developer.

Depending on how your hair is currently looking and what you want to achieve, you can use this guide to formulate the perfect color for your hair!

Until next time,

It’s Your Turn: Did you learn something new about the different developer volumes? Do you have questions about how it works? Write your thoughts in the comment section below! 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼

TIED TOGETHER:

When bleaching your hair at home with 20 volume bleach or any other bleach, one of the main questions many people have is how long you should leave the bleach in your hair.

If you take it out too soon, the bleach won’t lighten your hair to your preferred color. However, leaving it on for too long would be a mistake and could potentially cause significant hair damage.

The amount of time you leave the bleach in your hair depends on several factors, including the amount of bleach (or developer ratio) in the bleach mixture.

How long to leave bleach in hair with 20 volume developer?

You should not leave 20 volume developer bleach in your hair for more than 30 minutes. However, 30 minutes is a long time.

Ideally, you can remove the bleach before you’ve reached the 30 minute maximum, but the actual time frame will depend on your natural hair color, shade preference, and hair type.

For example, if your hair is dark brown and you want blonde hair, you will need to leave the bleach in your hair for an extended period of time.

Keep in mind that if you leave the bleach in your hair longer than necessary, you could end up with extremely damaged hair.

When it comes to how long to leave bleach on your hair, there’s no one-size-fits-all rule that applies to all hair types, colors, and curl patterns.

However, here are a few tips that will help you figure out how long to leave bleach in your hair, based on your individual needs.

First, let’s talk about what 20 volume developer means, why it’s important to understand if you have 20 volume developer or 30 volume developer, and so on.

What does 20 volume developer mean?

The term 20 volume refers to the amount of developer (or hydrogen peroxide) in a bleach. More hydrogen peroxide in the mix creates a “stronger” bleach.

The developer lifts the cuticle of the hair. Sometimes people refer to this process as “opening the hair cuticle,” though technically it’s lifting or lifting.

The raised cuticle layer allows the hair dye to penetrate your hair strands much more easily. Using developer color pigments can penetrate the hair follicles and deposit color.

The developer is usually available in 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume quantities. The 20 volume mix is ​​the most common and is used in most box dye kits and other do-it-yourself, home, hair dye and lighteners.

This 20 volume blend is a less powerful bleach, but it can lift a few tones (or shades) of hair color, but it’s typically less damaging to hair than 30 or 40 volume bleach.

If you have very dark hair, e.g. B. Black or brown hair, it is good to consult a professional colorist to create a plan for your specific needs. This is especially necessary if you want to achieve a blonde hair color.

We always recommend having the whitening process done by a professional the first time. This is the best way to ensure your hair stays in good condition and you achieve your desired color.

General Rules and Policies

Everyone’s hair is different, and you should consider your own hair’s needs before deciding how long to leave 20 volume bleach in your hair.

Here are a few guidelines that can help you plan how long to leave bleach in your hair.

In general, it is recommended not to leave 20 volumes of bleach in the hair for more than 30 minutes. This often results in significant fractures, chemical burns, and other damage if you do.

Some women leave the bleach in their hair longer than recommended because they are trying to achieve a drastic change from their natural hair color to something like platinum blonde or a much lighter shade than their natural hair.

In these situations, we recommend consulting a professional hairdresser. However, there is one exception to note. It is important that you follow the instructions that come with the product packaging.

The only time you should leave the bleach on for more than 30 minutes is when it’s specifically recommended by the product you’re using.

However, it’s important to note that the entire hair coloring process can be very damaging, especially if you’re making a dramatic change from your natural color to something significantly lighter.

Finally, just because you can leave 20 volumes of bleach in your hair for up to 30 minutes doesn’t mean you should.

Depending on your hair type and the color you want to achieve, you can actually get the result you want in a much shorter amount of time.

hair colour

One of the most important factors affecting how long you should leave bleach in your hair is your desired color.

If your hair is initially light, you only need to leave the developer in your hair for a few minutes. If your hair is darker, you may need to leave it on longer.

Another factor to consider is your target color. If you’re hoping to lighten your hair significantly, leave the bleach on for a longer period of time. If you just want to go a shade or two lighter, it only takes a few minutes.

However, hair color is not the only factor affecting your hair’s susceptibility to bleach. Thicker hair sometimes takes longer to absorb bleach. Untreated hair, or hair that has never been bleached or colored before, often absorbs bleach more quickly.

Perform a strand test

Why you need to do a strand test and how

Watch this video on YouTube

One of the best ways to ensure your hair is responding to bleaching in a healthy way, without putting your whole head at risk, is to do a strand test.

A strand test is when you apply hair dye or bleach to a few strands of hair to see how it reacts to it.

Here’s an alternative approach: If you’re doing a strand test, mix and apply your bleach as you normally would, but only to a few strands of hair that you’ve removed from your head.

Then monitor the strand every few minutes until it reaches the desired tone. Be sure to write down how long the bleach has been on your hair, because that’s how long you’ll need to apply it all over your head.

Performing a strand test adds an extra step to your hair coloring routine, but it’s worth it. It lets you know exactly how long to leave the bleach on your hair.

What happens if I leave bleach on for too long?

If you rinse out the bleach too soon, the worst that can happen is your hair is darker than you wanted — the real problems come when you leave 20 volume bleach in your hair for too long.

Bleaching hair in and of itself causes a lot of damage to your tresses, and this damage increases the longer you leave the bleach on your hair. Your locks may become dry, brittle, and brittle due to the chemicals in hair bleach.

Leaving the bleach on for too long will also affect your appearance. Instead of getting the shade of blonde you want, your hair might turn orange.

This happens because your hair color is determined by a pigment molecule called melanin.

Warmer pigments like orange are harder for developers to break down. Leaving the bleach on for too long will remove all of the cooler pigments, revealing your hair’s bright orange tones in full.

If you accidentally turn your hair orange by letting bleach sit in for too long, there are ways to fix it, and you’re not doomed to being called “carrot top” forever.

Use a toning shampoo

Toning shampoos, like purple shampoo, are designed to mask orange or brassy color jobs. They have purple pigments that counteract the orange color you might see on your hair.

This works if your hair is only light shades of orange.

Color correction in hair salon

If your hair is severely damaged by the bleach, you may need professional help. Fortunately, many hairstylists are familiar with home coloring mishaps and can get your hair back to the color you want while protecting it from damage.

Going to a stylist is more expensive than fixing your hair at home, but it ultimately gives the best results.

Top tips for bleaching hair at home

Once you figure out how long to leave 20 volume bleach in your hair, there are a few other things you can do to ensure your bleaching adventure is a success.

minimize damage

Bleach is a powerful substance that can damage your hair or even your skin. When applying bleach, be very careful not to get it on your face. Wear gloves to protect your hands and old clothes that you don’t want to miss if they get stained.

Prepare your hair

Bleaching can be a pretty intense process for your hair because it strips your hair of so many nutrients.

One way to minimize the damage is to prep your hair beforehand and nourish it with moisturizing products like deep conditioning treatments, moisturizing shampoos, hair masks, and hot oil treatments. You might even consider trying the squish-to-condish technique.

A few days before bleaching your hair, use gentle shampoos such as B. Sulfate-free to avoid depriving your hair of nutrients.

Some people also use natural hair oils like coconut oil before bleaching their hair. Coconut oil moisturizes the hair and reduces damage by protecting the hair’s proteins.

While this won’t prevent damage to your hair since bleach is a very powerful product, it can minimize it.

Apply bleach properly

When bleaching your hair, be sure to follow all directions carefully, no matter how many times you’ve bleached your hair before.

Be sure to apply bleach thoroughly for an even coating. Section your hair to cover each strand.

Finally, be careful when applying bleach so you don’t touch your scalp. Bleach can damage the skin on your head, so start a few inches from the roots and work your way down.

Get the most out of your whitening sessions

There are several factors that affect how long you should leave 20 volume bleach in your hair. Everything from your hair color to whether you’ve dyed your hair before can affect how your hair absorbs bleach.

The general rule of thumb is to not leave the bleach in your hair for more than 30 minutes, and plan even less if you’re only lightening your hair a few shades. To test your results, do a strand test beforehand and monitor your hair carefully.

Related Articles

Bleaching your hair at home requires a lot of patience and precision. This is one of those beauty treatments that makes it worth sitting in front of the clock and looking closely.

Otherwise, you could damage your hair or accidentally dye it orange.

However, with the right precautions, you can achieve the hair color you want with DIY bleach at home. Go ahead and bleach your hair safely!

Wella Color Charm Toners are easy to use! These liquid toners evenly transform brassy hair into beautiful ash, beige and silver blonde tones.

This simple guide will give you all the information you need to safely tone your hair at home with Wella Color Charm Permanent Toner.

What do I mix Wella Toner with?

The Wella Color Charm toners must be mixed with developer.

You can use either 10 vol developer or 20 vol developer (more on that later).

At Tint Department we use and recommend Hi Lift Developers and have found them to give perfect, consistent results.

Which developer to use with Wella toner?

10 Vol Developer: This is the gentler choice.

Use 10 Vol Developer with your toner if you want to go darker with your toner if your hair is damaged or if you have a lot of natural color (think balayage) as this is less likely to alter your hair.

20 Vol Developer: This is the stronger choice.

Use 20 Vol Developer with your toner if you want to go lighter with your toner, if you have just bleached and your hair is uneven, or if you see a lot of brassy yellows or oranges. Be careful using 20 Vol Developer if you have natural roots as it can lighten slightly and make them look brassy.

You can use a combination of developers to get your desired look! For example, 10 vol developer in sections closer to the roots and 20 vol developer in mid-lengths and ends.

Do I use Wella Color Charm Toner on wet or dry hair?

Apply your Wella Toner to damp, towel-dried hair. This helps the toner not “grab” sections of hair (which can leave some sections tighter than others).

How light does the hair have to be for toner?

For the best results, your hair must be a true pale blonde/yellow for the Wella toners to work.

We managed to reduce some of the darker yellow/orange with the toners – the results are just darker and less ashy. If you go to the toner section of our site you will see samples we have created using different shades of blonde. I hope it helps!

How do I mix the Wella Color Charm Toners?

Here’s a video I made for you!

Using a measuring cup, mix 1 part toner with 2 parts developer (double the amount of developer to toner). For example, for a full application on shoulder length hair, mix 50ml of toner with 100ml of developer. Apply the toner mixture to damp, towel-dried hair with a brush or application bottle. Apply to the back of the hair first, starting at the lengths and then moving down to the roots (if desired) before moving on to the front sections of the hair. Leave on for up to 30 minutes. Check a strand every 5-10 minutes to see if desired color has been achieved. Rinse the toner. Shampoo, conditioner and style as usual.

YOU CAN BUY WELLA TONER HERE

You can buy Wella Toners in Australia from Tint Department – click here to shop!

If you are in the United States, you can buy Wella Toner from Amazon – click here to shop!

Chroma Silk hair coloring system; What makes Pravana different from other salon color systems?

PRAVANA Chroma Silk has 80 shades that act as non-buoyant permanent and semi-permanent color. Super Lights and a 000 Lightening Booster to expand the possibilities of bleaching.

The Chroma Silk Salon Color System features 9 VIVID and vibrant semi-permanent colors

The Chroma Silk Salon hair coloring system contains 5 color correcting and additional shades.

Chroma Silk features 5 cream developers ranging from Zero Lift to 40 Volume to offer a full range of processing

Pravana’s exclusive bleach-free artificial hair color extractor that extracts only artificial hair color without affecting the hair’s natural base color will amaze you with the results

What makes Chroma Silk Color superior to any other professional hair color?

Unmatched versatility

Chroma Silk Color and its low-ammonia formula allows your stylist to mix the color with PRAVANA Zero Lift Crème Developer to create a demi-permanent, zero-lift hair color from any of the 80 Chroma Silk Color System Permanent Crème hair colors available at Hairology are from Panama Beach, Florida.

Incredible performance

Hydrolyzed Silk Amino Acids act as “carriers” to drive color deep into the hair fiber, providing unmatched coverage, color vibrancy and durability. Human hair’s keratin amino acids provide protection, strength and brilliant shine.

Frequently asked questions about PRAVANA Chroma Silk hair color.

Is Pravana ChromaSilk Vivids permanent?

ChromaSilk’s low-ammonia formula allows users to mix the color with PRAVANA Zero Lift Creme Developer to create a zero-lift demi-permanent hair color from any of 80 ChromaSilk Permanent Creme Hair Colors.

How long does the Pravana Chroma silk hair color process take?

20-30 minutes

Leave on for 20-30 minutes at room temperature. After processing is complete, shampoo lightly with VIVIDS Color Protect and rinse with cold water until the water runs clear

What is Pravana Chroma Silk Hair Color?

PRAVANA Chroma Silk Hair Color is the innovator in the creative color category with its award-winning VIVIDS collection. Introduced over 14 years ago, VIVIDS now offers the widest range of semi-permanent creative colors in the industry with over 32 intermixable shades.

How long should my stylist leave Pravana in my hair?

You can leave it on for as long as you like. As a professional stylist, I’ve had great results whether it takes 20 minutes or an hour. A helpful tip is to mix some into your shampoo and conditioner for longer-lasting results and use it every time you shampoo.

Does Pravana Vivids cover GRAY?

Pravana ChromaSilk VIVIDS + PASTELS hair color provides full gray coverage and rich, vibrant colors. … The low-ammonia formula preserves the integrity of the hair and allows colors to be both permanent and demi-permanent simply by using different ChromaSilk developers.

How long does Pravana last?

They last so long and are so colorful. Easy one-step application, no mixing. Most colors tested last at least 6 months before needing re-inking. Pravana is the pinnacle of pinnacle coloring!

Is developer required for Pravana ChromaSilk?

To use with ChromaSilk Crème Hair Color, mix equal parts VIVIDS Everlasting into ChromaSilk Crème Hair Color to intensify color. … Also, VIVIDS Everlasting does not require the use of high-lift developers; Use 10 Volume Crème Developer for maximum deposition or 20 Volume Crème Developer for lighter, more luminous results.

What does Pravana Zero Lift do?

What It Is: Pravana Zero Lift is a hair color developer that adds virtually no lift when mixed with any ChromaSilk hair color. What it does: This can be particularly useful when the intention is to apply hair color without lifting natural pigments.

Which company does Pravana own?

handle

Henkel acquires Pravana and more

Henkel will add Pravana to its portfolio through the new acquisition. Henkel signs an agreement to acquire Nattura Laboratorios, S.A. de C.V. This allows the company to expand its portfolio with leading brands in professional hair care.

Is Pravana Color vegan?

Their dye is 100% vegan and cruelty free and claims to be long lasting.

Is Pravana Paraben Free?

Packed with the finest ingredients, Pravana products are all free of sulfates, salts, parabens and all those other unspeakable chemicals that only harm our hair. … With Nevo, Pravana proves that technology and nature can indeed work in harmony, to the benefit of all.

Is Pravana Gluten Free?

Pravana: All of Pravana’s Nevo hair products are labeled gluten-free (the line uses hydrolyzed quinoa and soy protein). They are also vegan.

VIDEOS: PRAVANA Chroma Silk Hair Color

PRAVANA – Chroma Silk Hair Coloring System (Part 1)

PRAVANA – Chroma Silk Hair Coloring System (Part 2)

PRAVANA – ChromaSilk Coloring (Part 3)

PRAVANA – ChromaSilk Coloring (Part 4)

PRAVANA – ChromaSilk Coloring (Part 5)

PRAVANA 180 | What is Haute Now – Vibrant Violets Purple hair color

Autumn fairy hair color with Pravana

https://youtu.be/TlV8autWt7Q

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Have you ever wondered why your hair color is in two parts and why they don’t work until you mix them together? Well, one of the tubes contains the actual color and the other is a hair color developer.

And one doesn’t work without the other.

But what is hair developer? Why do you need to mix it with your paint? Can it damage your hair?

There are several different developer volumes and each of them has a different function.

Some of them can be more harmful than others. Some lift your hair more easily, while others are made for the deposit. Oh… and some lend themselves better to gray coverage than others…

This ultimate guide to the different volumes of Developer will answer all your questions…

*This post contains affiliate links, which means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase after clicking the link, at no additional cost to you. This helps me to provide the best possible content on this website for free. Remember, I only link to quality products that I use myself and that I believe will be beneficial to my readers.

Please read my full affiliate disclosure for more information.

What does the developer do?

The hair dye developer lifts the cuticle of your hair just enough to allow the color to enter or exit the hair. If you don’t mix the developer with your hair dye, the color molecules wouldn’t be able to penetrate the hair and would simply wash out.

Developer volumes refer to how much peroxide this developer contains. In addition, the amount of peroxide determines how far the hair cuticle opens during the process.

hair level:

First things first, we should talk about the layers of the hair. This will make it easier to understand how the different developer volumes work.

As you can see, hair color levels are measured on a scale of 1-10.

Level 1 is black and level 10 is a very light blonde. As the hair becomes lighter, it has a higher level number. For example, medium brown is level 4.

Just to clarify, this doesn’t explain the hue; It’s just a way of measuring how light or dark the color is.

When coloring your hair, you need to determine your current level along with the target level.

Tip: You can usually find the target level by looking at the number on the hair color you are using. For example 5N means your end result should be level 5 with the right amount of developer.

Learn more with my guide to reading hair color numbers/labels.

Withdraw vs Deposit

It is also important to determine whether you want to withdraw or deposit.

Lift means that we “lift” the hair color to a lighter level. For example, if your hair is brown and you want to go blonde, you need to lift it.

Incorporation means that we incorporate hair color molecules into the hair to make it darker.

You also need to determine how many boost or deposit levels you want to reach. Going from a brown level 5 to a blonde level 8 requires you to lift your hair three levels higher.

Remember that virgin hair color (hair that has never been colored) reacts very differently than colored hair. Read more about the golden rule of lightening hair color.

The different developer volumes:

• Developer at 10 volumes (10V / 3% peroxide) deposits color and darkens hair. It works by opening the cuticle just enough for pigment to deposit. So if you’re using any type of color where you just need to apply color with no lift (including most hair tonics), this is what you need to use.

• 20 volume developer (20V / 6% peroxide) is most commonly used. First of all, it is optimal for covering gray hair. Also, you would use it to stay anywhere near the height your hair is already at or to raise 1-2 notches.

• 30 volume developer (30V / 9% peroxide) lifts hair up to 3 levels higher and is commonly used with lighteners.

• 40 Volume Developer (40V / 12% peroxide) lifts hair up to 4 levels. It’s often used with lighteners or high-lift blondes. Some high buoyancy colors even require double 40V for extra buoyancy. Remember that 40V used with a lighter can be tragically damaging if misused.

Less commonly used developer types:

There are some other less commonly used developer volumes like 5V, 15V, 50V, 60V etc. Based on what you just learned you should be able to figure out what each of them does.

Disclaimer: I would never recommend using anything higher than 40V. However, there is a 120 volume developer in which you can dilute to make any other strength. That sounds pretty awesome, but keep in mind that it’s hard to get as most shipping companies can’t transport it.

Sounds like something you want to get your head around, doesn’t it?

General FAQ

What are the different volumes of the developer? The 10 volume developer is said to deliver pigment to the hair without lifting. The 20 volume developer is designed to lift hair 1-2 levels. The 30 volume developer lifts hair 3 levels and the 40 volume developer lifts 4 levels. Which volume developer should I use? It depends on what you want to achieve. If you go darker, you should use 10 developers. 20-40 developers can be used to raise 1-4 levels. 20 developer is best for gray coverage. Does 30 developer lighten hair? 30v developer lightens hair up to 3 levels. Do I have to use 40 volume developer for dark hair? Depending on how many levels of lift you want to achieve, you can use a 40 volume developer on dark hair. Can I use 10 volume developer to lighten hair? 10V developer is for settling and will not lift hair.

Final Thoughts

If you’re into DIY hair color, you need to formulate your hair color properly. One of the most important aspects of mixing your paint has to do with using the right amount of developer.

Some developers are designed to lift color while others just apply color. If you have gray hair it is important that you use a 20 volume developer for optimal coverage. If you tone your hair, you probably want to use a 10 volume deposit developer.

Depending on how your hair is currently looking and what you want to achieve, you can use this guide to formulate the perfect color for your hair!

Until next time,

It’s Your Turn: Did you learn something new about the different developer volumes? Do you have questions about how it works? Write your thoughts in the comment section below! 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼

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