Can Rabbits Eat Goat Feed? 62 Most Correct Answers

March 17, 2017 by Katherine Sullivan Last updated October 14, 2019. Published by

Rabbits have a specialized digestive system. Their unique ability to process fiber and nutrients makes them adaptable to many different environments, but their unique digestive system means their guardians have to be extra careful when feeding them.

A number of foods can upset rabbits’ digestion and harm their health. There are also a few foods – some of which are surprising – that are potentially toxic to them. Check out our list of 15 foods you should never feed your rabbit:

1. Yoghurt drops

According to Rabbit.org, research suggests that yogurt candy can contribute to fatal cases of enterotoxemia, “a toxic overgrowth of ‘bad’ bacteria in the intestinal tract.” If you’re looking for a healthy treat to feed your rabbit, try green peppers or Brussels sprouts.

2. Bread, pasta, cookies and crackers

These high-carb, sugary treats will really only “treat” your rabbit’s stomach problems. Avoid foods high in sugar or artificial ingredients as these — like yogurt candy — can potentially lead to enterotoxemia.

3. Avocado

When you think of ideal rabbit snacks, chances are fresh fruits and vegetables come to mind. However, avocados should never be included in your rabbit’s diet. According to Small Pet Select, this fatty fruit can be fatal if ingested by a rabbit.

© iStock.com/Zelenenka

4. Grain

Feeding your rabbit grains — such as granola, a processed food made from flaked corn, peas, pellets, grains, and seeds — can cause dental and stomach problems.

5. Iceberg lettuce

This may come as a shock, but you should avoid feeding your rabbit light-colored lettuce, including iceberg, as this may contain lactucarium, a chemical that can be harmful to your rabbit’s health if ingested. Iceberg lettuce is also mostly water and adds little to no nutrients to a diet.

6. Silver Beet

Like iceberg lettuce, silver beet — sometimes referred to as Swiss chard — is another leafy green that your rabbit should avoid. According to a veterinary center in New Zealand, the vegetables can cause your rabbit to suffer from colic and bloating and should be replaced with fibre-rich fruits, vegetables and herbs. Radishes, alfalfa, and rosemary are great options.

7. Hamster food

We get it. You may have more than one animal companion, and perhaps you were hoping to feed two birds with one hand, so to speak. But while rabbits need a special high-fiber diet — think high-quality timothy hay, fresh vegetables, and herbs — hamster food will do little to nothing for your rabbit’s diet.

8. Walnuts

Walnuts are high in fat, not fiber, which can cause uncomfortable digestive upsets in your rabbit. If you’re looking for a healthy snack to feed your rabbit, try fresh vegetables or herbs.

9. Oatmeal

While feeding rabbits oatmeal won’t do them much harm, it’s not an ideal meal. Rabbits need large amounts of timothy hay, hearty vegetables and fresh water – oatmeal does nothing to improve their nutritious diet.

10. Chocolate

Chocolate is an absolute taboo for bunnies. As with companion dogs, chocolate has no place in your rabbit’s diet. The sweet treat can be toxic to rabbits and should never be fed to them.

11. Peanut Butter

Like walnuts, peanut butter — which is also high in fat — should be avoided. The creamy snack will do nothing for rabbits except possibly give them a tummy ache.

12. Potatoes

Although potatoes do not necessarily poison rabbits, this man-loved vegetable is not ideal for them. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates and starches, both of which can cause problems for your rabbit’s digestive system.

13. Rhubarb

This common garden plant can be poisonous to animals if eaten raw. If a rabbit eats raw rhubarb, it could die, although this is rare, according to the RSPCA.

14. Meat

Some of you are probably wondering, “Seriously?” We’re just making sure we cover all our bases! Rabbits are herbivores, which means they eat plants. Wild rabbits wouldn’t eat meat, and neither should your domesticated housemate.

15. Cauliflower

Cauliflower is a vegetable, so it would make a perfect healthy snack for your bunny, right? Surprisingly no. Although vegetables are an ideal complement to the high-fiber hay required to feed rabbits, cauliflower causes rabbits to become bloated and gassy. If you want to give your rabbit fresh vegetables to nibble on, consider green peppers, beets, or radishes.

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Hungry for more rabbit facts?

Did you know that rabbits can be trained to litter? Or that you should never pick up a rabbit with just one hand under its belly? Click here to learn more about these bunny facts and many others.

Interested in rescuing a bunny companion?

Rabbits are the third most abandoned animal in shelters. Remember these three words: Adopt – don’t shop! If you are looking for a long term relationship with an animal, please visit your local animal shelter and save a life.

The Royal Veterinary College has released the latest results from its VetCompass programme, this time identifying the most common medical problems and causes of death in pet rabbits1.

The study analyzed data from 6,349 rabbits that visited 107 veterinary clinics across the UK.

The researchers found that the most common causes of death recorded by veterinarians were fly infestation (10.9% of pet rabbits), anorexia (4.9%), collapse (4.9%) and intestinal obstruction (4.3%). .

The average lifespan of pet rabbits was 4.3 years, although survival rates of up to 14.4 years have been recorded. Male rabbits tend to live longer, averaging 5.2 years, than females, averaging 3.7 years.

The most common medical problems are overgrown nails (16%), overgrown molars (7.6%), dirty butts (4.5%), overgrown front teeth (4.3%) and intestinal congestion (4.2%). Many of these problems are related to inappropriate housing or feeding. However, the researchers also point out that the fact that rabbits evolved as prey animals hasn’t helped owners and veterinarians. Evolution has meant that rabbits can disguise outward signs of illness, making them less likely to be attacked by predators, but this also makes it harder for owners to tell their rabbit is ill until it’s often too late.

Researchers hope this new study will help owners and veterinarians prioritize which signs of illness to monitor.

Other findings were:

Male rabbits are more likely to have overgrown claws, overgrown molars, overgrown incisors, and dental disease than females.

The average age of pet rabbits presented to veterinarians in this country is 3.2 years.

The average adult body weight of rabbits presented to a veterinarian is 2.1 kg.

dr Dan O’Neill, VetCompass Researcher and Senior Lecturer at the RVC, said: “For years, rabbits were considered the perfect pet for children: fluffy, cute, passive and requiring only minimal care and handling while being fed granola-like food in a hutch garden, where it was mostly kept singly.

“We now know that this level of care is totally unacceptable from an animal welfare perspective. This new paper can further improve the lives of rabbits by helping owners and veterinarians to recognize the common health problems faced by rabbits and therefore prioritize the most important management factors that will make our rabbits even healthier. Rabbits don’t show their suffering like other species, so it’s our duty to prevent and recognize their problems.”

dr Jo Hedley, VetCompass researcher and lecturer at RVC added: “This study definitely highlights some of the most common manifestations observed in pet rabbits. Unfortunately, due to the rabbit’s ability to mask disease, signs of a problem are often non-specific and detected far too late, so recorded causes of death are often only end-stage symptoms of an underlying disease. Many of the most important medical problems are still problems that we can address through proper husbandry , diet and health checks should be able to completely prevent . Better owner education is needed if we are to improve rabbit health and welfare for years to come.”

Relation

vet record. https://doi.org/vetrec-2019-105592 O’Neill DG, CRAVEN HC, BRODBELT DC, CHURCH DB & HEDLEY J 2019. Morbidity and Mortality of Domestic Rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) under primary veterinary care in England.

PS: If you’re here, take a moment to see our latest veterinarian job openings.

What should pet rabbits eat? Contrary to popular belief, rabbits need more than just carrots and lettuce. They need a balanced diet of hay, fresh vegetables and fruit, and some pellets. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive tracts, so switching to hay or pellets or introducing new fruits and vegetables must be done gradually to allow the rabbit’s system to adapt.

Hay: A rabbit’s staple diet

The bottom of a rabbit food pyramid would contain long-stemmed fiber in the form of hay, which makes up 80 to 90 percent of a rabbit’s diet. As grazing animals, rabbits need an unlimited supply of fresh hay every day.

You will want to feed your rabbit grass hay. Good types of grass hay for rabbits include timothy, orchard, brome, and oat hay. You can feed your rabbit one type or a mix of different types of grass hay. Buy fresh hay if possible and look for mold or dust that could make your rabbit sick.

Alfalfa hay is not a good choice for an adult rabbit as it is a legume rather than grass and as such is too rich to feed daily. Alfalfa can be given to rabbits occasionally as a treat. Rabbits under one year old can be fed alfalfa hay, but as they get older they should be switched to grass hay, especially if they are also fed alfalfa pellets.

Pellets: Feed a rabbit in small amounts

Timothy hay pellets can be given to rabbits in small amounts. An average sized (6-10 pounds) adult rabbit will only need a quarter cup of pellets daily. If your rabbit weighs less than five pounds, feed only one-eighth of a cup. Rabbits larger than 10 pounds need no more than 1/4 cup, as this is not a crucial part of a bunny’s diet.

Rabbits under one year old can be fed alfalfa pellets. Be sure to feed grass hay (instead of alfalfa) when feeding your young rabbits alfalfa pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber – the higher the better. Also note that many foods marketed to rabbits are not actually healthy for them and can sometimes be harmful so please read the ingredients. Do not buy rabbit pellets that have dried corn, nuts, and seeds added to them as these foods can potentially be very harmful to rabbits.

Vegetables: A rabbit’s favorite food

Rabbits count vegetables and herbs among their favorite foods. Most vegetables found in a supermarket are safe for rabbits, with some caveats and exceptions. (See the list of foods to avoid below.)

Adult rabbits should not be fed more than two cups of fresh vegetables per day. Miniature breeds and rabbits under five pounds should only be fed one cup of fresh vegetables per day. A choice of two or three vegetables is ideal. Add a new vegetable at a time and watch for signs of loose stools or diarrhea as, as mentioned above, rabbits have delicate digestive systems. Certain vegetables can be given every day, while others should be fed sparingly once or twice a week.

Don’t feed your rabbit potatoes, corn, beans, seeds, or nuts. These foods are difficult for rabbits to digest and can cause serious digestive problems.

Vegetables that can be fed to a rabbit daily:

paprika

Bok choy

Cauliflower

carrot tops

cucumber

endive

escarole

fennel

Herbs: basil, coriander, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme

Lettuce: Romaine, Green Leaf, Red Leaf, Boston Bibb, Arugula, Butter

okra leaves

radicchio

radish tops

Sprouts: alfalfa, radish, clover

watercress

wheatgrass

zucchini

Vegetables and plants to give a rabbit sparingly (once or twice a week):

Broccoli (stalks and leaves only)

carrots

chard

shamrock

collards

Dandelion Green (No Pesticides)

Flowers: Calendula, Chamomile, Daylily, Dianthus, English Daisy, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pansy, Rose

Kale

spinach

Fruit: Give to a bunny once or twice a week

Fruit should be given to your rabbit once or twice a week. A reasonable serving is one to two tablespoons of fruit (either one type or a mix) for every five pounds of body weight. Like vegetables, fruit should be introduced slowly and one at a time.

Fruit to feed your rabbit (once or twice a week):

apple (without seeds)

banana

Berries: blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, cranberries

Cherries (without pits)

Grapes

melon

nectarine

orange

papaya

peach

pear

pineapple

plum

watermelon

Treats: Feed rabbits sparingly

Like many people, many rabbits have a sweet tooth. As with humans, treats are at the top of the food pyramid for rabbits and should therefore be fed sparingly. Healthy treats for your rabbit include small pieces of fresh or freeze-dried fruit (the permitted fruits listed above); natural, unprocessed mixtures containing hay and dried flowers (the permitted flowers listed above); and Oxbow brand rabbit treats.

Always read the ingredient list of store-bought treats, as not all are safe for bunnies. Avoid treats that contain added sugar, preservatives, and artificial colors, and never give your rabbit human treats.

Foods to Avoid Giving a Rabbit

Some foods are definitely not good for rabbits as they can make rabbits extremely sick. Here are foods you should avoid giving your rabbit entirely:

All human goodies

beans

beet greens

cabbage

cauliflower

Muesli

chocolate

Treats made from corn or corn on the cob

cracker

iceberg lettuce

legumes

mustard green

nuts

pasta

Peas

potatoes

rhubarb

seed

sugar

Kohlrabi

yogurt

Freshwater: Unlimited supply for a rabbit

Finally, rabbits need to stay hydrated, so they should have an unlimited supply of fresh water that should be changed daily. The water tank should be cleaned with soap and water every few days. Water bottles are not easy to clean and can be difficult for rabbits to use, so bowls are better. A heavy ceramic bowl is ideal as it won’t tip over easily.

Additional rabbit information and resources

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Have you ever seen a rabbit you just didn’t want to pick up and cuddle? These cute and cuddly little furballs are popular domestic pets, and it’s easy to see why. With their long ears, big eyes and gentle nature, it’s hard not to fall in love with a bunny. At the same time, it’s important to remember that not all rabbits enjoy human attention. Rabbits in the wild, in particular, are notoriously shy and will run away if humans get too close. Although they may look cuddly and innocent, rabbits are actually a lot tougher than they appear. You can find wild rabbits in almost any habitat, including meadows, grasslands, forests, tundra, deserts, and wetlands. You have probably seen a wild rabbit in your garden or park more than once. Do you know the answer to the question “What do rabbits eat?”

To answer that question, today we’re going to take some time to find out what rabbits like to eat. We’ll learn how they search for food and all about the finely tuned senses that help them find food. In addition, we will also distinguish the diet of wild rabbits and domesticated rabbits. Finally, we will end with a discussion of what baby rabbits like to eat. Let’s hop along and answer the question “what do rabbits eat”.

What do rabbits like to eat?

Rabbits are herbivores and will eat a variety of plants including hay, vegetables, pellets and fruit. A-Z-Tiere.com

There are around 30 different wild rabbit species and over 300 different domesticated breeds worldwide. While each of these species and breeds is slightly different, they share a number of characteristics. They all eat the same thing. All rabbits are herbivores, meaning they only eat plant matter. However, rabbits don’t just love to eat lettuce and carrots, despite cartoons leading you to believe they do. In truth, rabbits eat a balanced diet of various grasses, vegetables, and plant matter. Your body needs a lot of fiber to digest all that raw plant matter, so rabbits have evolved to eat many types of greens. However, there are certain foods that rabbits really enjoy eating and that they enjoy eating. With that in mind, we’ve narrowed the list down to ten of the most common foods rabbits eat. These foods include:

grasses

vegetables

fruit

hay

shoots

leaves

pellets

insects

bark

needs

weed

How do rabbits search for food?

Rabbits rely on their senses of smell and sight to find edible plants. Rita_Kochmarjova/Shutterstock.com

Rabbits seem pretty defenseless at first. They don’t have sharp claws or teeth and aren’t particularly strong, other than their powerful hind legs. Luckily for rabbits, they don’t have to be the strongest to find food. Rabbits rely on their keen senses not only to find food but also to avoid predators. Overall, hearing is a rabbit’s most important sense. They can hear sounds from a great distance, which doesn’t exactly help them when foraging, but is useful for dodging threats. When foraging, rabbits rely primarily on sight to find edible grasses and scent to tell when certain plants are ripe. They also use their sensitive whiskers to sense themselves in front of you. In addition, rabbits use their sense of taste to determine if food is safe to eat. Although not known to be picky, even rabbits develop preferences for certain foods.

Rabbits primarily feed by grazing on plants in their environment for long periods of time. Once a rabbit has found a particularly tasty spot, it will usually graze heavily in that area for about half an hour. After that, most rabbits will graze selectively on chosen grasses or plants for another half hour or more. If the environment rabbits live in is largely free of predators, they can graze longer. Because rabbits are crepuscular, they become most active at dusk and dawn, when you will most likely see them feeding in the wild. However, they can be active throughout the day if they feel safe. On the other hand, domesticated rabbits will often eat throughout the day when food is readily available.

What do rabbits eat in the wild?

Wild rabbits mainly eat grass and hay, but also shoots, leaves, bark, vegetables, fruits and their own pellets. Rita_Kochmarjova/Shutterstock.com

Because rabbits live in a variety of habitats, their diet can vary depending on where they live. Overall, wild rabbits tend to primarily eat grasses, shoots, and leaves that are locally available. In general, grasses and hay make up the majority of a wild rabbit’s diet. Common grasses that wild rabbits eat include wheat, alfalfa, orchard grass, timothy, fescue, and ryegrass. However, rabbits will eat just about any type of grass. When domesticated vegetables are available, wild rabbits will eat lettuce, carrots, and other vegetables. Because of this property, gardeners and farmers often consider rabbits pests. Wild rabbits also frequently eat their soft, partially digested pellets for extra nutrients. Because they are so soft, the pellets are also easy to digest. Rabbits get a lot of cellulose in their diet, which is difficult to digest. Therefore, rabbits eat their pellets to aid in their digestion.

What do pet rabbits eat?

Pet rabbits can eat a variety of foods, but you should avoid feeding them too many fruits, carbohydrate-rich vegetables, seeds, nuts, or dairy products. Thor Jorgen Udvang/Shutterstock.com

By and large, house rabbits eat the same food as wild rabbits. Typically, grasses and hay should still make up 80% to 90% of a house rabbit’s diet. However, it can be difficult to find all of the wild grasses that wild rabbits eat to feed to a pet rabbit. Therefore, domestic rabbits have a slightly different diet than wild rabbits. Many rabbit owners also feed their pet rabbit leafy greens and greens. Popular vegetables that pet rabbits can eat include:

lettuce

fennel

Bok choy

Root leaves (carrot, radish, turnip, etc.)

cucumber

endive

sprouts

wheatgrass

watercress

Herbs

While rabbits can eat carrots, they should not be eaten too often as carrots are high in carbohydrates. Other vegetables that house rabbits can eat but shouldn’t eat too often include broccoli, clover, dandelions, kale, spinach, and flowers. On rare occasions, you can also feed your rabbit fruit. Safe fruits include:

Apple

pear

banana

berry

Grapes

orange

papaya

plum

melon

watermelon

In addition, many rabbit owners also feed their pet a pellet supplement. Pellet supplements are not a critical part of a rabbit’s diet, but can help them get extra vitamins and nutrients. You should always consult your vet before introducing any new food to your pet rabbit. Also, make sure you don’t feed your rabbit processed foods, grains, dairy, potatoes, beans, or cruciferous vegetables. These foods are difficult for rabbits to digest and can make them very ill. Finally, a pet rabbit should have access to plenty of fresh water, which should be changed regularly.

What do baby rabbits eat?

Baby rabbits feed on their mother’s milk for the first 3 to 4 weeks of life. iStock.com/Laures

Baby rabbits, also called kittens or kittens, are born underdeveloped. They have no fur and cannot open their eyes. As such, baby rabbits are completely dependent on their mother or caregiver for nutrition. On average, kits are nursed for the first three to four weeks of life. Rabbit milk is very high in calories and provides all the nutrients that baby rabbits need to thrive. Once old enough, the young begin to venture out and forage like adult rabbits. At this point, their diet is about the same as an adult rabbit. Pet or rescued baby rabbits that have been separated from their mothers should be fed goat’s milk or a special rabbit milk substitute. Baby rabbits cannot drink cow’s milk and should never be fed with it. Before introducing any new food to a baby rabbit, be sure to consult your veterinarian.

Whether it’s your first time keeping a rabbit or you’re a seasoned bunny keeper, it’s easier than you might think to be surprised at how much dry food they can eat. If, for this reason or another, you’ve run out of your rabbit’s food, take heart: there are healthy alternatives that can keep your rabbit happy until more kibble arrives.

While a rabbit’s need for hay is unavoidable, running out of dried rabbit food is not a major obstacle to its health. Follow this article and we will introduce you to many fruits and vegetables that can serve as useful additions to your rabbit’s diet. From lots of fiber to plenty of vitamins, you’ll be armed with options to keep your rabbit going indefinitely.

Alternatives and food supplements for rabbits

With the nutritional needs of rabbits in mind, let’s look at some of the best fruits and vegetables to feed your rabbit when you’re out of rabbit food.

1. Dandelion leaves

A little-known green that’s delicious in salads, even to humans, dandelion leaves are common in spring and summer. You can pick them outdoors in areas with little road access, but be careful not to pick them from places that may have been sprayed with chemicals. Always wash freshly picked vegetables thoroughly before feeding them to your rabbit.

2. Broccoli

Fed in moderation, broccoli’s high fiber content and dense nutrient profile can make it an excellent addition to your rabbit’s diet, tribe and all. Be careful not to overdo it, however, as this vegetable of the Brassica family can be stressful on some rabbits’ digestive systems.

3. Leafy cabbage

Packed with a healthy mix of protein and fiber with very little sugar, kale makes a wonderful addition to any rabbit’s diet. There are no contraindications to feeding it, so give your rabbit kale every day.

4. Beet greens

Rich in iron, magnesium, potassium and fiber, the greens that are normally shed from the tops of beets make a great addition to your pet’s diet. Rabbits can also eat the beetroot in small amounts, but the greens are much better for their health.

5. Romaine Lettuce

Hardier and with a much better nutritional profile than iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce (as well as red and green lettuce varieties) is a useful addition to your rabbit’s diet. You should feed it in moderation as its abundant water content can cause diarrhea if consumed in excess. Avoid iceberg lettuce entirely as it provides almost no nutritional value.

6. Spinach

Spinach is incredibly healthy thanks to its wide range of vitamins and minerals, it’s also high in fiber and helps regulate your rabbit’s digestion naturally.

7. Kale

Kale, another vegetable in the Brassica family that’s better served in small batches, can be a helpful addition to your rabbit’s diet thanks to its exceptionally high fiber content. Try alternating it with other leafy greens to keep your rabbit’s tummy happy and healthy.

8. Mint

Aromatic but not uncomfortably pungent to your bunny’s nose, spearmint is an amazing herb to plant in your home or garden. It grows quickly and becomes established almost immediately, making it a continuous (and free!) source of fiber in your rabbit’s diet.

9. Basil

Popular in Italian and Mediterranean cuisines, basil of any kind makes a great snack for your rabbit. However, not all bunnies love the smell equally, so let your bunny decide before you buy something extra for them.

10. Coriander

Another fast-growing herb that does well in indoor gardens, cilantro is a favorite treat for many rabbits. It is high in fiber and has a moderate vitamin and mineral profile, making it a good daily addition to your rabbit’s diet.

Understand your rabbit’s nutritional needs

It’s important to understand that while your rabbit can survive without a constant source of dried kibble, fresh timothy hay is imperative for him to remain healthy and happy.

In addition to timothy hay’s importance in regulating your rabbit’s digestive health and gut bacteria, it provides a rough texture that will abrade your rabbit’s ever-growing teeth. Without hay, your bunny friend will experience gastrointestinal problems in the short term and serious dental problems in the long term.

Your rabbit will do just fine on plenty of fresh hay and water, but fruits and vegetables will fill vitamin and mineral needs that hay may be missing. You must be careful not to overfeed your rabbit with these nutrient-dense alternatives by limiting vegetables to a daily feeding and higher-sugar fruits to only the occasional treat.

Final Thoughts

If you have adequate hay and water for your rabbit, dried rabbit food is a luxury rather than a necessity. If it turns out you ran out of kibble early, don’t worry – just feed them a little more of the veggies on this list and they’ll stay full until more kibble arrives.

Featured Image: Ashley Hanawalt Photos, Shutterstock

Keeping a rabbit outdoors requires investing in a good, sturdy hutch and run, and even more important is keeping your rabbit company…

Keeping a rabbit outdoors is the most practical way for many people. The downsides are that you will need to invest in a good, sturdy hutch and run and it is even more important to provide your rabbit with the company of another rabbit as you will not be able to interact with them as much with an indoor rabbit.

requirements

size

The hutch must be high enough for the rabbit to stand on its hind legs in full extension and long/wide enough for the rabbit to make three hops in each direction. There must be enough floor space for the rabbit to stretch out to its full length. If you plan to keep two rabbits in the hutch, increase the dimensions. The minimum hutch size recommended by the Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund is 6ft x 2ft x 2ft with an attached exercise run of 8ft x 4ft x 2ft for a pair of rabbits.

materials and design

Solid wood is best as it is warmer, more predator proof and lasts longer. You should be able to bolt the doors securely and any wire screens should be tight to repel foxes, cats and dogs. The coop should be raised off the ground on legs to repel predators and prevent the base from becoming soggy. The roof should be sloped to allow rain to run off and covered with roofing felt to keep the coop watertight.

Garbage can

You could put a litter box in the corner that the rabbit uses as a litter box to minimize coop cleaning.

sleeping area

Most pens have an enclosed sleeping area, but if not, try partitioning off an area or placing it in a wooden or cardboard box with a hole in each end.

Select stable

There is a wide range of stables on the market ranging in cost from £50 to £200. While the cost of a well-built, spacious hutch can seem daunting, it will last a lot longer and be a lot more comfortable for your rabbit. Many of the “budget” hutches sold are actually far too small for a rabbit anyway.

It’s worth shopping online to make sure you’re getting the most bang for your buck – any decent sized hutches come flat pack and require assembly so there’s little difference between buying online or from a pet store.

Combination huts and runs

Some stables are equipped with a lateral or underlying run. This is a good option as it gives your rabbit more exercise on a regular basis and is often cheaper than buying a separate hutch and run. However, be aware that there is a risk of your rabbit digging out of the run if left unattended. You should always lock your rabbit in the hutch overnight to protect itself from predators.

location

Try to put the hutch in an area of ​​your garden that is sheltered from the wind and preferably in the shade, so that your rabbit does not overheat on very hot days. In winter you can either put the coop in a shed or garage for extra protection, or cover it with an old blanket/towel or a specially designed ‘stable stuffed animal’.

cleaning

You should clean the whole hutch at least once a week and the rabbit’s toilet area more often, maybe 2 or 3 times a week. For this reason, it makes sense to put a litter box in the corner your rabbit uses as a toilet.

Scrub the coop with hot water and disinfectant spray every few months.

maintenance

You may need to replace the roofing felt on the hutch if it becomes too worn or tears, allowing water to get in. You can buy roofing felt at most hardware stores and attach it with some thumbtacks and a hammer.

Once a year before the onset of winter, paint the stall with a waterproofing agent such as creosote substitute.

Suitable environment for rabbits

Rabbits need a safe environment and protection from danger, whether they live inside or outside the home.

Where rabbits live, eat, move, go to the toilet

A rabbit’s environment is where it lives – not just where it sleeps, eats, moves, and goes to the bathroom, but every place it has access to. The environment also includes all objects with which a rabbit comes into contact and the materials, such as e.g. B. Bedding, which is needed to stay healthy and happy.

Care should be taken to provide adequate space with adequate ventilation, with protection from predators and extreme temperatures.

A rabbit should have access to appropriate locations and supplies to:

rest and sleep comfortably

eat and drink undisturbed

train and explore safely

Hide when you are scared or feeling unsafe

Protection against the elements such as wind, cold, rain and sun

Interact with (and escape from) companions.

play

chew whenever it feels the need

Mark its scent on solid objects

watch out for companions or dangers

Resting place for rabbits

A rabbit needs a rest area and an exercise area. Your rabbit’s resting area should have at least two compartments. A darkened sheltered area for sleeping away from noise and another for eating/relaxing. All areas should be well-ventilated, dry, and draft-free, as humid, poorly ventilated, hot, or dirty environments can cause disease. Ideally, the resting area should be firmly attached to an exercise area that the rabbit has free access to at all times.

The rest area should be as large as possible. At least:

large enough for your rabbit to lie down and stretch out comfortably in all directions

high enough that it can stand on its hind legs fully extended without ears touching the tip

long enough for it to move, eat, and drink

As a guide, your rabbit should be able to make at least three jumps from end to end. For a fully grown average rabbit, this can equate to around 150/180 cm in length and 60 cm in height

In many cases, the berth is bought at the same time as the rabbit, and then the rabbit is usually still young and not yet fully developed. Therefore, future housing requirements and revision of the rabbit’s living quarters must be considered as the rabbit grows in size.

If you keep more than one rabbit together, there should be enough space for each adult rabbit to behave as described above. There should also be secure hiding spots where each rabbit can choose to be alone if they wish.

If your rabbit lives outside

Rabbits can be kept outdoors year-round, but ideally their resting area for the winter months should be moved to a shed or unused garage with natural light and ventilation, or protected from inclement weather with a tarp. A practice run should always be available. Many consider a small shed fitted with a cat flap in a secure enclosure to be a good permanent home.

If you plan on keeping your rabbits outdoors, make sure the resting area is:

draught-free and absolutely weatherproof

placed in a sheltered place (without direct sun and prevailing wind)

robust and easy to clean

raised off the ground to keep the ground dry

protected from predators

Equipped with secure locks to prevent escape or theft

has an attached safe practice run

Never house your rabbits outside if you buy them in late fall/winter as they have not had an opportunity to winter coat and may not survive. A constant source of fresh water must be provided at all times. It’s important to check the water bottle and food bowl as they tend to freeze in low temperatures. When rabbits cannot drink, they become dehydrated, which leads to health problems.

Keep your rabbit indoors

Rabbits can live happily indoors and they should have a safe place where they can feel safe, sleep, use a designated area as a toilet and be left unsupervised.

If released indoors, extra care should be taken to restrict access to areas where there are electrical cords that rabbits can chew through. Since rabbits are prone to heat stroke, care should also be taken about where their housing is located as central heating can cause health problems.

Bedding for rabbits

Bedding should be provided to give your rabbit extra insulation, a place to hide and something to chew on. It should be clean, dry and safe for your rabbit to eat as well. Hay and straw can be used. Wood chips are not suitable as bedding material.

Exercise area for rabbits – the run

Rabbits are very active, athletic animals. In order to exercise appropriately, they must be able to crawl, hop and walk around. Jumping on and off elevated areas such as B. stable platforms, helps rabbits to maintain their bone and muscle strength. If your rabbit doesn’t get enough exercise, their bones can become weak and break; this can also happen if your rabbit is simply struggling to pick it up.

Your rabbit should have access to a run every day. The run should:

should be as tall as possible so your rabbit can reach up to their full height and run instead of just hopping

contain elevated areas for jumping and should preferably be located outdoors with access to a grassy area

be moved regularly to avoid digging up or overgrazing the grass

be escape-proof and secure enough to prevent any threat from predators

Provide shade and shelter from wind and rain, if the living area has been moved to a shed or garage in the Autumn/Winter then an area to move around must also be provided

Rocks, large terracotta flower pots, logs and chew toys can be provided within the run to avoid boredom.

When more than one animal is kept together, there must be sufficient areas to shelter from the sun, wind and rain so that all animals can find shelter and choose to socialize or be alone.

Protection from predators

Lounges and runs should be protected from predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, rats and birds of prey.

Rabbits should have 24/7 access to suitable hiding spots where they can run when they are feeling anxious, stressed, uncomfortable, or just want to be alone for a while.

Each enclosure should always have at least as many hiding places as there are animals. Hides should be big enough for your rabbit and ideally have more than one entrance.

Suitable hiding places include cardboard or wooden crates, paper sacks, sections of long drainpipes, and shelves your rabbit can get under. You need to make sure these are non-toxic and contain no sharp edges.

ventilation and temperature

Rabbits should be protected from inclement weather such as strong sunlight or temperature fluctuations. This includes your rabbit’s living area and exercise area.

Outdoors, a blanket, blanket, or piece of old carpet or other insulating material can provide extra protection on cold nights, provided there is adequate ventilation.

Indoors, a rabbit’s living quarters should be placed in a cool room, away from direct sunlight and drafts, and away from heaters (because rabbits can suffer from overheating) and loud noises.

Hygiene for rabbits

Part of providing a suitable environment is ensuring that it is safe, clean and sanitary.

Newsprint or scraps of paper should be used for the toilet area. Alternatively, a litter box can be fitted with non-clumping, non-toxic material. Wood chips containing pine or clay based cat litter should not be used as they can be dangerous to rabbits.

Your rabbit’s living area should be cleaned daily. You should:

Remove and replace any shavings or bedding that are wet or dirty

Remove all uneaten fresh food

Thoroughly clean the water and feed tanks before refilling

The entire living area should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a week, but as often as needed to maintain a clean, hygienic environment for your rabbit.

You should:

Use a good quality, pet-friendly sanitizer, rinsing if necessary and allowing to dry before allowing your rabbit entry

Replace all litter and shavings – leaving used but clean litter can be useful to help your rabbit feel safe by recognizing their own scent

You should not keep more animals than you can care for and meet their welfare. The more animals you have, the more work is required to keep them clean.

Protection from poison and other dangers

You should be careful when using either herbicides or pesticides. You should not let your rabbit into flower beds or other areas that are likely to contain poisonous plants.

Potentially poisonous plants should not be kept indoors or placed where your rabbit cannot reach them. Household cleaning products including liquids, medicines or other products intended for humans or other animals should also be kept out of reach. Contact your veterinarian quickly if you think your rabbit has come into contact with anything that could harm him.

Travel for rabbits

You may need to transport your rabbit by car or other vehicle. Rabbits should be transported in a secure, adequately sized and well ventilated carrier. Your rabbit should be familiar with the transport box to make them feel comfortable and reduce transport stress.

The carrier should be securely fastened with a seat belt or wedged in the footwell of the car, taking care to ensure adequate ventilation. The carrier should not be placed where your rabbit gets too hot, such as B. in direct sunlight or next to the car heater. Do not place the carrier in the trunk of a sedan.

Your rabbit should have access to food in their carrier and on long journeys you should offer regular water and use of a litter box, but only within the safe confines of the vehicle when it is stopped.

Rabbits should not be left unattended in a car or other vehicle in warm weather. This can be life threatening and you could be prosecuted for causing unnecessary suffering. The temperature in the vehicle can rise extremely quickly and cause heat stroke or even death in a short time.

Take care of rabbits when you’re away

It is your responsibility to ensure that your rabbit is cared for while you are away. Someone who takes care of a rabbit for you has to take care of the rabbit’s needs every day. If someone is looking after your rabbit in your absence, they are legally responsible for their well-being and you should ensure they understand their needs and any special requirements they may have. You should provide contact information to deal with an emergency medical situation.

Many rabbits prefer to stay in familiar surroundings, but you should make appropriate arrangements with a neighbor or pet sitter. You should make sure they can meet all of your rabbit’s needs.

You may want to consider whether a good boarding house would be better, where your rabbit can be supervised and cared for by someone who is knowledgeable about rabbit care.

Diet, normal behavior, illness

Learn about proper rabbit nutrition, normal behavior patterns, and protecting rabbits from pain, injury, and disease:

Other useful links

Rabbits are among the best pets you can have, especially if you are looking for a starter animal for your children. However, if you have other pets in the home, it can be difficult to decide if the rabbit will get along with your current pets.

Eight animals that get along well with rabbits are:

Cats Dogs Birds Guinea Pigs Chinchillas Hedgehogs Pigs Turtles

There are a ton of different pets that you can have that will get along with rabbits, whether your rabbit is free range or caged. The eight animals we’re going to talk about here are sure to work well for you and your new pet rabbit.

1. Cats make great rabbit companions

You may be surprised to discover that cats actually make great companions for rabbits. Despite the fact that cats are natural predators (and rabbits are natural prey), domesticated cats are usually accepting of having a rabbit in the home.

Cats and rabbits can become friends quickly, but it’s important that you observe them the first few times they meet. Most of the time, cats get along well with rabbits, but if you notice your cat sneaking up or pouncing, make sure you break off the encounter.

Another important thing to keep in mind is that the smaller your rabbit, the more likely your cat will see “prey” instead of a new furry friend. Don’t introduce a baby rabbit to an adult cat – it’s best to just wait until the rabbit is fully grown.

Cats and rabbits get along even better if they grew up in the same household.

You can really introduce baby rabbits to kittens with confidence. In fact, this should help your cat develop a better attitude towards other animals.

2. Dogs and rabbits make wonderful friends

Everyone knows that dogs are social animals that get along well with many other species, and rabbits are no exception! However, dogs are predators by nature, just like cats, so it’s important to watch the animals when they meet. There are a few things you can do to actually make this process easier.

One thing you can consider is getting your dog used to the rabbit’s smell. If you have a dog, then you know how they will sniff you excessively when you have been around other animals.

Spend some time petting or holding your rabbit, and be sure to get as much rabbit fur on your shirt as possible. Then just spend some quality time with your dog! Let them know the smell is friendly and they will have an easier time meeting the rabbit.

Remember that dogs are usually irritable – this can be really scary for rabbits, especially if your dog is large. This can cause the rabbit to become hostile, which can trigger the dog into predatory instincts as well. Be sure to monitor your furry friends’ first encounters.

If your dog likes to play with toys or is generally hyperactive, then make sure you always watch the two animals together. When it comes to smaller animals, many dogs play “cat and mouse”; In other words, your rabbit could get pushed around, which could lead to a bad situation.

3. Birds and rabbits get along well

In most cases, birds and rabbits can even become good friends! Small birds are the best when it comes to getting along with rabbits and they are also the safest option. Larger birds like gray parrots are predators, while other birds like diamond doves are not.

Rabbits are incredibly sensitive to high-pitched sounds. If you are looking for a bird that whistles a lot, or your bird is particularly loud, don’t get a rabbit. However, if you are looking for a smaller, calmer bird, the two animals can easily become friends!

If you happen to have both a large bird and a rabbit, it’s important that you let them loose and out of their cage at separate times to protect your rabbit. This also reassures your rabbit as most rabbits will be nervous around animals that display predatory habits.

If you have a rabbit or bird and are worried about getting the other, you can call your vet! He or she can give you great advice on your particular situation and what is best for your current pet.

4. Guinea pigs and rabbits go well together

Guinea pigs and bunnies are good friends, and it’s a fun way to make both pets feel happy. In fact, many guinea pigs get along better with rabbits than with other guinea pigs.

These animals are about the same size, so you don’t have to worry about one slightly hurting the other or just trying to play. Because of their similar size, no animal should feel so threatened that it could easily snap.

One thing to keep in mind is that guinea pigs are naturally lazy; They don’t really like running around, especially compared to rabbits. Most rabbits, when comfortable, can run around most of the time they are awake. Having a very hyperactive rabbit can frustrate some guinea pigs. Other than that, there’s no need to worry when it comes to matching these two animals!

5. Hedgehogs and rabbits are friendly to each other

Hedgehogs are becoming popular pets and they make great cage pets. They also get along well with rabbits! Hedgehogs aren’t predators, and they generally won’t get stressed about rabbits when they’re running around a room.

One important thing to remember is that hedgehogs can be territorial, so keeping both animals in the same area for too long or in too small a space is not a good idea.

Some people try to keep different animals in the same cage and you shouldn’t do that with hedgehogs and rabbits.

6. Chinchillas and rabbits make wonderful friends

Chinchillas and rabbits are another fairly common pairing. Because of their similar size, they fall into a boat with guinea pigs. These two animals get along great, but that doesn’t mean they’ll be best friends in all cases.

While chinchillas and rabbits are generally fairly peaceful, they can injure each other significantly if they don’t get along or if something happens between them. Because of this, it’s pretty important to supervise them when they’re together, especially in the beginning.

7. Pigs and rabbits are adorable together

Little pigs are becoming more and more popular as people share videos of adorable mini pigs running around the house and rabbits can make great companions for these little pigs! Since both animals are not true predators, they make great companions for each other.

The only thing you have to worry about is the size of your pig, even if it’s a mini pig. Most rabbits are fairly small, so even a small pig can accidentally step or fall on a rabbit and cause significant harm to your pet.

Be sure to monitor the playtime between these two animals, but there’s not much to worry about between these rabbits and pigs compared to other animals. If the two animals don’t become friends, the pig will mostly ignore the rabbit.

8. Turtles and bunnies make a great duo

Turtles (and tortoises) and rabbits are another great pet combo. In general, neither animal will care much about the other’s being there, and they can even play together to some extent.

Because turtles are so slow, there really isn’t much to worry about when it comes to letting the two run around together. The only thing is to watch out for a grumpy turtle; When they get angry, they can easily hurt small animals by ramming, and rabbits are no exception.

You should be aware that rabbits tend to eat other animals’ droppings.

Turtles can carry diseases such as salmonella, which can be shed in their feces, and salmonella is extremely deadly to rabbits.

Make sure to keep them in separate cages and don’t leave them alone for long periods of time!

Bonus: Bunnies get along with bunnies!

Unsurprisingly, rabbits are actually one of the best pets you can keep with other rabbits! If you’ve ever seen how rabbits interact with each other when you’re shopping, you’ll quickly understand why.

Rabbits, like other animals, naturally live in small groups. Being social animals, they get along with most other rabbits without too many problems. Even if the rabbits didn’t grow up together, they can bond fairly quickly and you’ll see them snuggling up to each other in no time.

However, rabbits with a bad temper can still hurt each other. Make sure you get a good judgment on how well they get along before leaving them alone, and give them plenty of room to run around – rabbits love to play together.

What should be considered when introducing rabbits to other animals?

Things aren’t always as black and white as “this animal gets along well with rabbits.” There are a ton of different factors that can contribute to how well your pets get along, so skim through them before you think you’re in the clear.

The personality of the rabbit

No matter how peaceful or how good another animal species is, your rabbit must be peaceful enough to get along with.

If your rabbit is shy or not very social then leaving the two animals together may not be the best idea.

It can be difficult to know how your rabbit will react to other animals. There are personality traits that can help you determine where your rabbit will or will not do well with other animals.

Before introducing your pet rabbit to an animal, consider the following questions:

Does your rabbit get scared easily? If this is the case, it can cause serious problems for other animals. Getting scared can trigger your rabbit’s defensive tendencies and cause other animals to become predatory.

If this is the case, it can cause serious problems for other animals. Getting scared can trigger your rabbit’s defensive tendencies and cause other animals to become predatory. Does your rabbit enjoy your company? If so, then this is a good sign that your rabbit is friendly! You want a good-natured bunny if you’re going to get another pet.

If so, then this is a good sign that your rabbit is friendly! You want a good-natured bunny if you’re going to get another pet. Is Your Rabbit Hyperactive? If so, then that’s a good sign that your rabbit is getting along with other animals!

The personality of the other animal

In addition to your rabbit’s personality, you also need to pay close attention to the personality of the pet you are introducing to your rabbit! With so many different animal species, it is difficult to make a blanket statement. Animals, just like humans, have different personalities, so it’s important to think about it.

Animals often behave differently towards humans than animals. Some pets are very friendly to people but extremely hostile to other animals and vice versa – never assume that your pet will like other animals just because they like people.

You can apply the same guidelines above to both your rabbit and the other pet. If you already have a pet and are looking to get a rabbit, try taking your pet into public areas and seeing how they get along with other animals they see.

If you are considering getting a new pet, take your rabbit with you to see how the new animal reacts. It’s important to make sure both your rabbit and the new pet are comfortable.

The species of each animal

Another important factor to consider before getting a new pet that will get along with your rabbit is the different breed of animals we talked about. For example, some dog breeds get along much better with rabbits and other small animals in general.

When it comes to dogs, do some research and see what your dog’s breed was originally bred for. Some dogs, like Labradors, are large but very friendly to small animals. However, other dogs like Yorkshire Terriers may seem to get along initially but are actually not very good with small animals.

Yorkshire Terriers and many other dog breeds were bred with the intention of killing small animals during hunting season. Because of this, some dogs still have a much higher predation drive than others, and you want to know this before putting your rabbit in front of a predation dog. For an extensive list of dogs bred for hunting, see this article on dog breeds.

Bacteria and diseases that these animals can transmit

This may not be a priority, but animals carry many different diseases and bacteria, some of which can be extremely harmful, if not fatal, to rabbits. In some cases, you may want to stay as far away from animals as possible, such as rats.

However, as long as the rabbit doesn’t get into the feces of most animals, this shouldn’t be a big problem. The best thing you can do is talk to your veterinarian about what kind of animals you are considering getting and if they could pose a threat to your rabbit.

Also, if you happen to get a pet that can carry diseases that can kill rabbits, beware; Rabbits are notorious for eating feces, and you should avoid your rabbit eating the other animal’s feces at all costs! You can do this by making sure the cages are far apart and keeping playtime to short bursts instead of hours.

Here is a list of animals to talk to your vet about before meeting your rabbit:

cats

rats

pigs

Outdoor animals such as possums and skunks

Animals that rabbits don’t get along with

snakes

Under no circumstances should you ever have a snake and a rabbit together in the same house. There are a few reasons, but primarily snakes eat rabbits.

Snakes are carnivores, and they see a rabbit as food rather than a friend.

Snakes are also a lot fiercer than some of the other animals on this list. They’re harder to understand and read, so it’s difficult to gauge their personality when it comes to other animals. However, we can tell you that snakes and rabbits will not get along.

Even if you keep them completely separate, snakes tend to escape from their cage. When this happens, your rabbit will be a sedentary meal stuck in a cage; this is not ideal for obvious reasons.

ferret

Ferrets, like snakes, will not get along with rabbits (or other small creatures). Ferrets are also carnivores, specifically bred to help hunt small animals; You don’t want to put a ferret and a rabbit together for the same reason you don’t want to put a rabbit and a Yorkshire terrier together.

Like snakes, ferrets are extremely sneaky. You can try to keep the two animals separate, but that’s difficult with smart ferrets. Once again, your new rabbit will be a meal served on a golden platter if your ferret happens to find it.

Find the right companion for your rabbit

Choosing the best companion animal for your rabbit can be confusing and we hope this guide helps! Just remember that rabbits are social creatures and usually enjoy being around most other animals.

Rabbits have incredibly simple dietary needs. Unfortunately, most rabbits are kept in above ground pens and never get a chance to touch grass when raised commercially.

two white florida rabbits

Homesteaders can (and should) take a very different and healthier approach with their meat rabbits, one that allows the animals to eat a much more natural diet and costs you next to nothing to feed them.

When pet rabbits (or even pet rabbits) are kept in pens with safe ground access, similar to those that chicken coops provide, the animals can consume foods more closely aligned with their natural diet and the need to purchase rabbits decreases significantly reduce or even eliminate pellet feeding.

Nutritional needs of rabbits

Rabbits are herbivores. In the wild, rabbits thrive on the grasses, vegetables, succulents, and fruits they forage. When rabbits starve, they eat their own excrement to survive.

By mimicking rabbits’ natural diet as much as possible, you can both stay healthy and gain weight in a reasonable time frame – avoiding the medical problems that obesity can bring.

When rabbits are housed commercially or in off-ground pens, they are typically fed high-protein, high-starch hay or similar high-protein, high-fiber rabbit pellet chow. In the wild or in the captive habitats mentioned above, rabbits eat grasses, leafy greens, herbs and fruits.

Most commercial rabbit foods contain a protein ratio of 12% to 20%.

Best hay for rabbits

Hay should be the basis of a rabbit’s diet. There are many different types of cattle hay – each with their own advantages and disadvantages in terms of nutrients.

grass hay

Grass hay such as timothy grass hay, orchard grass or meadow hay contains less protein and calcium than legume hay – but has more fiber. Grass hay is a bit sweet, so cattle tend to prefer it.

While grass hay is excellent for feeding meat rabbits, it should be considered more of a supplement or healthy treat rather than an overall nutrient dense staple food. Grass hay varieties typically contain an eight to 12% protein ration. This type of hay also has a fiber content of 34%.

legumes hay

A legume hay, like alfalfa, is rich in proteins. Feeding rabbits legume hay as their primary food source will give the animals the energy they need to grow.

However, some rabbit owners feel that feeding alfalfa hay exclusively or using it in excess over a period of time can lead to kidney or urinary problems – potentially making it less suitable as a sole food source for breeding pairs.

However, legume hay is particularly beneficial for nursing mommies and kits (rabbit rabbits) due to its high protein content. Legume hay has a protein ration of 13% to 21% and a dietary fiber content of 28% to 34%.

Hay from cereal grains

Types of hay in this category include oats, barley, and wheat. This grain can not only be eaten by rabbits, but also used as bedding. Grain hay is much softer than straw – but costs more to buy.

If you can’t grow your own grain hay for the meat rabbits on your homestead, consider scheduling this more expensive type of bedding only for pregnant and lactating rabbits to give both them and their kits a soft place to sleep.

Types of hay made from cereal grains usually have a fiber content of 31% and a protein content of around 10%.

75 things rabbits can eat

Providing rabbits with healthy snacks and nutrient-dense supplements can often be accomplished by growing your own treats for the rabbit colony and giving the meat animals fresh scraps from your garden or kitchen.

Carrots – limited due to high sugar content Carrot greens – can be fed frequently Lettuce – all varieties Basil Turnips Kohlrabi Oregano Thyme Rosemary Broccoli Bok Choy Celery Clover – all varieties Kale Chard Dill Coriander Watercress Dandelion Plantain Mullein Amaranth Endive Jerusalem Artichoke Kale – only weekly in small amounts Mint Bananas Strawberries Blackberries Black Raspberries Raspberries Apples – pitted Raisins – limited quantities Blueberries – limited quantities Radishes Peppers Cherries – pitted Peaches Kiwis Pineapple – dried recommended Mangoes Bananas Watermelon Honeydew Melon Pumpkin – pitted Mustard Leafy Greens Sprouts Arugula Wheatgrass Chicory Roses Fennel Borage Pansies Yu Choy Brussels Sprouts Hibiscus Nasturtium Summer squash Winter squash Zucchini Cabbage – in limited quantities Parsley Papaya Star fruit Apricots Nectarines Currants Plums – pitted chicory Parsley Grapes – in limited quantities gen Sage Echinacea Calendula Red Winterw Food

Rabbits are incredibly sensitive to foods high in sugar. If a rabbit eats too much sugar, it can ferment in the stomach and cause lower respiratory problems and bloody urine.

Because rabbits are unable to regurgitate their food, the fermenting sugary foods are excreted in their feces, often resulting in severe or even fatal diarrhea.

Strictly limit or eliminate all sweet foods that are part of your treat routine.

45 things rabbits can never eat

Never feed the following treats to the rabbits on your homestead. Each item on this list can make your rabbit sick or fatal if ingested.

Parsnips Nightshade Millet Rhubarb Chocolate Coffee Tomatoes and tomato plants Leaves Mangoes Caffeine Onions Almonds Chives Garlic Nuts Dairy products Avocados Bread Meat Buttercups Comfrey Foxgloves Poppies Delphiniums Holly Yew – all varieties Privet Ivy – almost all varieties Bryony Arum Henbane Hedge Garlic May apple Spurge Poison Hemlock Ragwort Spurge Tree lupine Corn radish Celandine Fool’s Parsley Wood Sorrel Cowslip Cow Parsley Dock Traveler’s Joy

Foods high in carbohydrates should also be limited or avoided altogether. Foods high in carbohydrates are very difficult for a rabbit to digest – and just like foods high in refined sugars, they can cause fermentation in the stomach.

While not poisonous, it’s best not to give or give as a very rare reward: Rice, Human Grain, Beans of any kind, or Corn.

Never feed rabbits commercially processed foods that are not specifically formulated for them, such as B. Dog or cat food or sweet mix – all horse food.

When a rabbit’s diet is primarily based on hay and supplemented with items from the safe treats list, the animal has a better chance of staying healthy and gaining weight in a reasonable time frame.

Growing food specifically for the rabbit near their enclosure, or even inside the enclosure, will help keep feed costs down.

NA/AbleStock.com/Getty Images

All wild rabbits possess individual tastes, including individuals of the 13 cottontail species. But many cottontails will eat bird seed like sunflower seeds, which are loaded with nutritious oil. If a homeowner does not clean up spilled bird seed, cottontails and other wild animals will be attracted to sprouting seed as well as the seeds themselves.

Function Cottontails feed by foraging or eating a little of whatever plant material they can get their hands on, including grasses, flowers, leaves, bark, vegetables, fruits, sprouts, and even wicker baskets. But they generally prefer fruits, vegetables, and fresh flowers to seeds. Favorite foods are dandelions, clover, goldenrod, grapes and apples. Wild rabbits will eat as fast as they can of any food source they can find to store fat for lean times. All wild rabbits possess individual tastes, including individuals of the 13 cottontail species.

But many cottontails will eat bird seed like sunflower seeds, which are loaded with nutritious oil.

Problems In addition to eating spilled bird seed, cottontail rabbits will also eat fresh seeds from tables set for ground-eating birds such as pigeons and quail. Rabbits may eat so much bird seed that the birds don’t get any. Cottontails also damage yards and gardens by eating any greenery, including stripping the bark off trees. Snakes, coyotes, owls, hawks, crows, raccoons, and foxes prey on adult and young cottontails. You enter a yard or garden where wild rabbits live to hunt them, and some of these predators, like hawks, also hunt birds.

Exclusion Discourage cottontail rabbits from making a home in a yard or garden by daily cleaning up spilled bird seed, mowing lawns to shorten the grass for the rabbits to hide in, and fencing around bird feeders set up near the ground. The Squirrel Wars book recommends using a chain link or hard wire fence that is at least 2 feet high and driven at least 6 inches below the ground. If the fence is not placed that deep underground, cottontail rabbits will dig under fences for treats such as sunflower seeds. Use 1/4-inch or smaller mesh, notes Mass Audubon, the Massachusetts chapter of the Audubon Society. Cottontail rabbits not only eat spilled bird seed, but also fresh seeds from tables set for ground-eating birds like pigeons and quail.

If the fence is not placed that deep underground, cottontail rabbits will dig under fences for treats such as sunflower seeds.

If you’ve ever found yourself in a situation where you need to feed your rabbit but all you can find is guinea pig food, you may be wondering if you can get away with feeding your rabbit guinea pig food. The good news is that rabbits can eat food designed for guinea pigs.

Because these two common pets are so similar, there is some overlap with their diets. However, we do not recommend making a habit of feeding your rabbit guinea pig food. There are specific reasons why the food is labeled only for guinea pigs.

We go over the similarities and differences between rabbits and guinea pigs, especially when it comes to their diet. We also explain why it is better in the long term to feed your rabbit a diet specifically tailored to your rabbit’s nutritional needs.

Both small mammals, but different species

Rabbits and guinea pigs are different species. Guinea pigs are rodents while rabbits are lagomorphs. The difference is most obvious when you look into each of their mouths. Rabbits have four incisors in total, while guinea pigs only have two incisors.

Regardless of their number of teeth, these two small mammals have incisors that grow continuously throughout their lives. They must constantly chew fibrous food to keep their teeth from growing too long.

Almost the same diet

The reason you can feed your rabbit guinea pig food, at least in the short term, is because of the similar nutritional requirements. Both animals need more vegetables than fruit, and both eat hay and pellets.

hay

Rabbits and guinea pigs are herbivores. Most of their diets should consist of good quality hay. Because their digestive system requires a lot of fiber, hay is an important food source. It helps grind down growing teeth and provides important vitamins and minerals, like vitamins A and D, as well as protein and calcium.

There are differences between rabbits and guinea pigs when it comes to hay consumption. While timothy hay is an excellent choice for both animals, rabbits prefer oat hay and guinea pigs prefer meadow grass hay. Also, rabbits require a higher proportion of hay in their diet compared to guinea pigs.

Be sure to eat your veggies

Both rabbits and guinea pigs benefit from a diet that includes certain vegetables and fruits in smaller portions. You can’t go wrong feeding them Asian vegetables, carrot tops, celery, kale, spinach, or herbs.

Perhaps the biggest difference is the amount of vegetables and fruits you feed each pet. Guinea pigs need more fruits and vegetables than rabbits.

vitamin C

While your rabbit may eat guinea pig food, the opposite scenario is more difficult for a guinea pig’s body. Rabbits can produce their own vitamin C and do not need to supplement their diet with additional sources. On the other hand, guinea pigs must get their vitamin C from dietary sources since their bodies cannot produce it. Over time, a vitamin C deficiency can lead to serious, potentially fatal, health problems for the guinea pig.

Related Read: Can Guinea Pigs Eat Rabbit Food? What you need to know!

Conclusion

With such similar diets, it’s okay if you have to feed your rabbit guinea pig chow. However, keep in mind that these small mammals have some key differences in their nutritional needs. Rabbits need a higher proportion of hay and slightly fewer vegetables and fruits than guinea pigs.

Selected image source: Pixabay

My daughter’s adult rabbit died suddenly last week. Early in the morning he seemed fine, then by mid-morning he looked a little wobbly, and then within a couple of hours he was dead. What could have been the cause of death, and is it safe to buy another rabbit and put it in to put the same cage?

What Rabbits Should Really Eat

There are many misconceptions about what rabbits should eat, including the myth that rabbits need lots of carrots and lettuce, as well as regular servings of commercial food. While carrots are fine as an occasional treat, rabbits will not eat fruits or vegetables in the wild.

To be clear, here are our top rabbit diet myths:

Myth #1 – Rabbits eat carrots

Reality: Carrots shouldn’t be a main food source.

Rabbits do not naturally eat root vegetables or fruit. Carrots and fruit are high in sugar and should only be fed in small amounts as an occasional treat.

Rabbits need mostly hay and/or grass, some leafy greens, and a small, measured amount of pellets.

Check out our Rabbit Meal Planner.

Myth #2 – Hay is just bedding

Reality: Hay is actually a primary food source for rabbits.

Hay is not just bedding. Fresh, dust-free hay should be your rabbit’s main source of food and you should ensure that he has access to it at all times. Eating lots of hay or grass will help wear down rabbits’ ever-growing teeth and keep their bellies healthy. It also enables foraging and grazing, which are important natural behaviors.

Myth #3 – Rabbits eat lettuce

Reality: A rabbit’s diet should not be based on lettuce.

Rabbits should avoid eating some lettuce (like Iceberg) as they contain lactucarium, which can be harmful in large amounts. Some lettuces are “worse” than others – light-colored varieties have high water content and very little nutritional value and are therefore not recommended.

You can feed your rabbit darker, leafier, and fibrous varieties (such as romaine lettuce) as they contain more fiber and intrinsic nutrients. Introduce them gradually, as large amounts of lettuce can cause upset stomachs in rabbits who aren’t used to it.

Myth #4 – Rabbits should primarily eat store-bought rabbit food

Reality: Eating too much store-bought rabbit food can lead to weight gain and prevent your rabbit from eating enough hay and/or grass.

You can feed your rabbit a small, measured amount of pellets or nuggets each day to ensure they are getting all the vitamins and minerals they need. Don’t feed your rabbit muesli-style foods as this can lead to dental and stomach problems.

Rabbits eat quickly when you give them prepackaged rabbit food and that means they can run out of things and get bored. Remember that hay and grass are far more important and should make up the majority of your rabbit’s diet.

See: Make feeding fun.

Unlike most other animals, rabbits cannot belch or vomit. Therefore, rabbits are unable to rid their bodies of poison. In addition, rabbits can also recycle poison and toxic compounds through their digestive system as they are ecotrophic.

Contact with unsuitable foods (such as garlic, onions, chocolate, and grapes), hazardous household products (detergents, antifreeze, detergents), plants, and medicines can result in your pet accidentally ingesting, inhaling, or coming into contact with a harmful substance. Mild to severe symptoms may occur due to poisoning; Signs of toxicity may not be immediately apparent. If you suspect your pet has had a toxic exposure, a visit to the vet is essential.

Rabbit poisoning can occur when your pet is exposed to toxic compounds such as those found in insecticides, flea collars, household cleaners, and medications.

House rabbits eat up to 30 times a day, so they need a constant supply of food. Rabbits don’t have the same dietary needs as most other domesticated animals, so we need to be clear about what they can and cannot eat. First of all, we need to know what foods are poisonous to rabbits.

Rabbits should never be fed avocado, fruit pits, or rhubarb. Even small amounts of these foods can be deadly. Other foods such as muesli, dog or cat food, and nuts are not toxic to rabbits but can cause illness and digestive problems such as diarrhea if consumed regularly.

Rabbits that are fed an appropriate diet are less likely to eat unhealthy or toxic foods. That’s why it’s so important to feed your rabbit a species-appropriate diet and to moderate foods that lead to obesity.

What foods can rabbits not eat?

There are foods that rabbits shouldn’t eat, but only a few of them will cause death. Toxic foods are the ones most likely to result in instant death in a pet rabbit.

In contrast, “unhealthy” foods will not cause a rabbit to die. Despite this, they can cause diarrhea, weight loss/gain, and other health problems.

avocados

Avocado is one of the most dangerous foods for rabbits. This is because it contains a toxic compound called persin. If a rabbit ingests too much persin, it quickly develops breathing problems. This can lead to heart failure and eventual death in some cases.

If a rabbit only has 1-2 bites of avocado, they may not be having a severe reaction. However, you should still contact your veterinarian for advice.

fruit pits and seeds

Although small amounts of apple pulp are okay, apple seeds are taboo. Apple seeds contain a compound that is toxic to rabbits. So if you serve an apple as a reward, make sure all the pits have been removed.

Not only apple seeds are harmful, but also apricot, peach and plum seeds. These contain traces of cyanide. Rabbits should not be fed fruit pits, seeds, or seeds if they have an adverse reaction.

rhubarb

Rhubarb is an irritant that can cause severe reactions in rabbits. It also contains a high concentration of oxalates. These can affect calcium absorption. So if you grow rhubarb in your garden, make sure your rabbit doesn’t have access to rhubarb. Symptoms of rhubarb poisoning include:

A swollen or sore mouth

Diarrhea

Bloated or sore stomach

Drink plenty of water

lethargy

Although symptoms can be severe, death from rhubarb poisoning is fairly rare if rabbits are taken to the vet for treatment immediately.

chocolate

Chocolate contains two types of methylxanthines that are very harmful. These are as follows:

theobromine

caffeine

The higher the cocoa content, the higher the concentration of methylxanthines. So if your rabbit ate a few pieces of dark chocolate, it would be a medical emergency. Even white chocolate can cause a severe reaction in some rabbits. According to the PDSA, symptoms of chocolate poisoning include:

Diarrhea. Vomiting would normally occur, but rabbits cannot vomit

restlessness

Squirm when you try to touch his stomach

trembling and wheezing

A high temperature

Although most of us wouldn’t treat our rabbits with chocolate, most of us leave packages of half-opened chocolate lying around the house. This is risky when there are pets in the house. So always make sure you get in the habit of locking chocolate away.

Leek Vegetables

Leek-type vegetables can cause serious illnesses. These vegetables include:

Onions (red and brown)

garlic

shallots

chives

The problem with these vegetables is that they can cause hemolytic anemia (loss of red blood cells). This can cause dizziness, weakness, and eventually death if left untreated. As if that weren’t enough, allium-type vegetables can also cause anaphylactic shock in some rabbits.

iceberg lettuce

We literally refer to lettuce as “rabbit food,” so it can’t be poisonous to rabbits, can it? Well, dark forms of lettuce (eg, romaine lettuce) are fine for rabbits. However, iceberg lettuce is unhealthy because it contains a harmful chemical called lactucarium.

Lactucarium is not usually harmful in small amounts, but a large serving of iceberg lettuce can cause diarrhea and physical weakness. Very young rabbits could even die from too much iceberg lettuce.

potato leaves

Potatoes are not a good food source for rabbits as they are high in starch. This makes potatoes difficult to digest but not toxic.

A small amount of potato cannot harm a rabbit. However, potato tops and leaves can be poisonous to a rabbit.

Processed foods containing sugar

If you enjoy a cookie or piece of cake, you might be tempted to give your rabbit a bite, but you shouldn’t. According to the MSD, high-sugar, high-carbohydrate foods can trigger enterotoxemia in rabbits. This is a severe case of diarrhea that is often fatal.

Enterotoxemia occurs when there is an overgrowth of Clostridium-type bacteria in the rabbit’s cecum (the sac between the small and large intestines). These bacteria release a toxin that is deadly. It is believed that sugary, carbohydrate-rich foods encourage the bacteria to multiply.

Although a single serving of sugary foods is unlikely to trigger enterotoxemia, it could happen in very young or weak rabbits. In addition, rabbits who do not eat enough fiber are particularly vulnerable.

What to do if your rabbit eats something poisonous

If your rabbit has eaten any of the above foods, you should speak to your veterinarian. Many of these foods can cause death within a few hours. Foods like iceberg lettuce and crackers are less likely to be fatal to healthy, adult rabbits. Your vet can advise if treatment is needed.

Sometimes rabbits eat something poisonous without us noticing. We may not realize it until our rabbit gets sick. Symptoms include:

diarrhea or vomiting

Glazed eyes

Weakness

Drink a lot more than usual

restlessness

Foods rabbits should not eat

Some foods are not “toxic” to rabbits, but should still be avoided. These foods are unhealthy and can cause disease over time. More specifically, these foods are difficult to digest and usually very high in calories. This means they can cause stomach pain and obesity.

Muesli

Remember we said sugary, high-carb foods are bad for rabbits? Well, granola falls into that category. Granola-based rabbit food was once a popular pet food, but we now know it’s unhealthy. Because a high-carbohydrate/high-sugar diet can lead to the following problems:

dental disease. According to the BMJ, dental disease is “extremely common” in rabbits fed the muesli diet.

, dental disease is ‘extremely common’ in rabbits fed a cereal-based diet. diarrhea and gastrointestinal problems

weight gain

Enteroteoxema, in the most severe cases

In theory, muesli should be healthy because it contains high-fiber pellets. However, most rabbits will eat the chunks of muesli because they are tastier than the pellets, causing the rabbit to consume too many carbohydrates.

nuts

Most rabbits love the taste of nuts, but they’re not a good food choice. They should only be fed to a rabbit in moderation.

Nuts are very high in fat, which is a problem because rabbits require a relatively low-fat diet to thrive. The high fat content can cause digestive problems and intestinal problems. Nuts are also a choking hazard.

cat or dog food

In multi-pet households, it’s quite common for pets to share (or steal) each other’s food. And in some cases, rabbits develop a taste for dog/cat food. But is it safe for rabbits to eat dog and cat food?

Although this food is not toxic, you should not encourage this behavior. These foods are high in calories, so eating them is likely to lead to weight gain.

Most dog/cat foods contain animal protein. Rabbits are herbivores, so they lack the necessary enzymes to digest meat. In addition, these foods contain amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that may be unnecessary.

Rabbits should be fed a low-calcium diet, as high calcium levels can lead to kidney stones and urinary tract infections. Cat and dog foods contain added calcium, so this is not recommended for rabbits.

cauliflower

Given that rabbits are herbivores, you might assume that feeding them vegetables is fine. Unfortunately this is not the case. Rabbits can eat a variety of vegetables, but cauliflower is not one of them. Whether raw or cooked, cauliflower can cause severe bloating in rabbits.

parsnips

Although parsnips are acceptable in small amounts, they are not a recommended food for rabbits. Parsnips contain a lot of starch and are therefore difficult to digest. In addition, they are relatively high in calories, so regular consumption leads to weight gain.

raisins

Raisins are very high in sugar, so they are difficult to digest (and can even cause enterotoxemia). According to TandF, raisins can also block the stomach outlet if they get stuck there.

Rabbits quickly develop a liking for raisins, so you may feel like you’re denying your rabbit their favorite treat. However, there are many healthier ways to treat your rabbit.

What can rabbits eat?

So far we’ve looked at what rabbits can’t eat. So this begs the question, what can rabbits eat? Well, this is the optimal diet for an adult rabbit:

Unlimited Grass Hay – Grass hay is a requirement for all rabbits whether you feed them pellets or not.

– Grass hay is a requirement for all rabbits whether you feed them pellets or not. Leafy Greens – 1 cup of green vegetables per pound of body weight per day

– 1 cup of greens per pound of bodyweight per day Unlimited water – Most rabbits prefer to drink from a bowl

The following are optional and can help improve a rabbit’s diet when given in the correct portions:

High Fiber Rabbit Pellets – Typically 25g – 50g per day

– Typically 25g – 50g per day Other vegetables (celery, broccoli, peppers etc.) No more than 1 tablespoon per pound of body weight per day

(Celery, broccoli, peppers, etc.) No more than 1 tablespoon per pound of bodyweight per day Fruit – Occasionally in small amounts

Occasional, in small amounts, access to growing grass for grazing

Rabbits have unique dietary needs. If you do not meet these requirements, your rabbit can become very ill. Also, a hungry rabbit is more likely to graze on unhealthy or poisonous foods.

Importance of dietary fiber for rabbits

As we know, rabbits are herbivores, so their gastrointestinal (GI) tract can handle a very high-fiber, low-nutrient diet. In contrast, their gastrointestinal tract cannot process large amounts of fat, protein, or starch.

So what is the best source of fiber for rabbits? Well, rabbits should get most of their fiber from hay. According to MAG, hay should make up 80% of a rabbit’s diet. Timothy hay is ideal due to its low calcium and protein content. Provide a bundle of hay at least as tall as her each day.

Hay is a good choice for rabbits because chewing it shortens their teeth. It can also help prevent enterotoxemia by clearing the gastrointestinal tract.

In addition to hay, rabbits should be given moderate amounts of leafy green vegetables and small portions of other vegetables. These provide additional fiber as well as water, vitamins and minerals.

What vegetables can I feed my rabbit?

With the sheer variety of vegetables, it’s hard to say which ones are safe for rabbits and which ones aren’t. In terms of leafy greens, the following vegetables are safe for rabbits:

Kale

spring green

rocket

Small amounts of romaine lettuce

Dark Green Cabbage

Beetroot Greens

radish green

You should feed your rabbit 1 cup of greens for every pound of body weight (per day). The average rabbit weighs about 5 pounds, so that’s 5 cups of greens. You can break these up into small portions, as rabbits eat up to 30 times a day. In addition, rabbits can be fed small amounts of the following vegetables:

broccoli

celery

paprika

Jerusalem Artichoke

celery

Serving size is 1 tablespoon per pound of body weight per day. Rabbits can also be fed small amounts of herbs such as basil, dill, and mint.

Serving Size Rabbit Pellets

Most owners will supplement their rabbit’s diet with pellets. Pellets can be beneficial as they provide protein, nutrients and extra fiber. However, it is important not to overfeed your rabbit.

The majority of a rabbit’s diet is hay, so they don’t need a large portion of pellets (typically 1 egg cup per day). The only exception is if your rabbit is underweight. In this case, alfalfa hay and/or a large portion of pellets can be used to fill it up. When buying pellets, choose a high-quality, high-fiber variety.

Healthy treats for rabbits

Many foods that we think are okay for rabbits are harmful. So what is a good treat for rabbits? Here are some options:

Brussels sprouts (make sure the stalk is not attached)

Small pieces of apple (remove core)

Small amounts of carrots/ carrot tops

Small pieces of sweet potato

Fruit should not be given every day as it can damage the rabbit’s teeth.

What if my rabbit won’t eat hay?

Sometimes rabbits don’t care about hay. This is problematic because if they don’t curb their appetite with hay, they’re more likely to overeat on pellets. Or they steal poisonous foods like chocolate or biscuits. If your rabbit doesn’t like hay, try the following:

Choose a quality variety that is free of dust.

Your rabbit might like a different kind, so try hay cubes, oven-dried grass, and hay biscuits.

Pull the hay apart a little and sprinkle in some herbs.

Put some of their hay in a cardboard tube so they have to work harder to get it. This can make the hay more interesting.

Reduce the number of pellets, but gradually.

If your rabbit cannot be persuaded to eat hay, it could be due to dental disease or another health issue. Get advice from your veterinarian.

Changing a rabbit’s diet

If you want to improve your rabbit’s diet, it’s important to make dietary changes gradually. This gives your rabbit’s gastrointestinal tract time to adjust. Rabbits can become very ill if their diet is suddenly changed.

So if your rabbit eats a muesli-based food, you should replace it with pellets. The RSPCA recommends doing this over 2-3 weeks. So every day, reduce the amount of muesli a little and increase the number of pellets. By the end of the third week, your rabbit should only be eating pellets.

Offer your rabbit a larger variety of vegetables. Diversity is a good thing, but it’s important to make changes gradually. Introduce new vegetables one at a time and monitor your rabbit’s intestinal habits closely.

The majority of your rabbit’s diet should be hay. If they’re not eating enough hay, follow the tips above. If you feed too many pellets or vegetables, these should be gradually reduced over 2-3 weeks. If your rabbit doesn’t increase their hay intake in response to this, you should speak to your veterinarian.

Food safety tips for rabbit owners

As rabbit owners, we are afraid of feeding our rabbit anything toxic. It is also crucial that we feed our rabbits species-appropriate. Here are some food safety tips to remember:

Although rabbits are herbivores, some fruits and vegetables can cause deadly reactions. These include rhubarb, avocado, leeks and iceberg lettuce.

The leaves of potato plants can be poisonous to rabbits.

In terms of garden plants, most of the plants that grow from bulbs are poisonous to rabbits.

A rabbit’s gastrointestinal tract cannot process large amounts of carbohydrates or sugars. Root vegetables like parsnips, sweet potatoes, etc. are fine in small amounts. However, rabbits should never be fed processed carbohydrates (cookies, cakes, etc.).

Small pieces of fruit (e.g. apples) can be given as an occasional treat, but the pits/pips must be removed.

Hay should make up the bulk of a rabbit’s diet as it helps promote good gastrointestinal health. It also prevents unhealthy snacking.

Unlimited water should be provided, and most rabbits prefer to drink from a bowl rather than a bottle.

The most important tip is to be careful. Only feed your rabbit if you are 100% sure it is safe. Rabbits’ nutritional needs are counterintuitive, so never make assumptions.