Bolt Through Screws For Door Handles? Top Answer Update

Architectural hardware can be a confusing place – filled with different terminology and jargon that can quickly become confusing. The More Handles Technical Guides series of articles aims to break down confusing industry jargon and explain the differences between similar items that can easily be confused.

“My grub screws keep falling out, how do I fix this?” is a question we get asked sometimes. Let’s look at what causes this and how to solve this problem and ask what kind of grub screw is best to use and why we actually use grub screws.

A grub screw, sometimes known as a “set screw” in North America and elsewhere, is actually quite confusingly a type of bolt. This is because it is keyed, allowing it to be screwed into a pre-existing threaded hole, rather than being driven into a surface like a traditional screw.

So what is the function of the grub screw? Well, the grub screw is generally used to secure one item to another item without the use of a nut. This is important as the nutless fastening capability makes the grub screw very versatile and means that a grub screw can be used in applications that require a very small and unobtrusive fastener. This is useful in situations where a traditional nut and bolt attachment would either impede the function of an item or be aesthetically unacceptable.

Grub screws perform a variety of tasks in different industries, for example in mechanics and mechanical engineering, where metal surfaces rub against each other and must not be impeded by screw or bolt heads. In the architectural hardware industry, the most common purpose of the grub screw is to attach a doorknob or door handle directly to the spindle shaft. It works like this: A threaded hole is drilled into the neck of a handle or doorknob. The hole extends into the rectangular locating recess on the back of the door handle. The spindle is then slid into the locating hole, positioning the door handle in place on the door. The grub screw then threads into the threaded hole and impacts the spindle, creating a lateral compressive or “clamping” force by the lower tip of the grub screw protruding through the threaded hole. This pressure holds the door handle or knob in place on the spindle shaft.

In earlier times, grub screws on door handles used a raised, rounded,

usually slotted head. As part of a major industry initiative in the early 20th century to improve worker safety, the modern “headless” grub screw was developed. Today, grub screws are almost always headless, meaning that the grub screw body is fully threaded and no head protrudes beyond the diameter of the screw. Almost all modern grub screws are driven via a hexagon socket drive such. B. a hex socket or a torx socket wrench operated. The benefit of using a headless grub screw is that there is no sharp protruding head to catch your fingers on. Another advantage is that torx and hex heads allow much more torque to be applied before the head becomes deformed from over-torqueing. This means that when assembling, you can tighten a grub screw much tighter than its pan head counterpart. With the exception of a few very reproduced antique furniture lines, all of our door pulls and knobs use a hex Allen key drive in their grub screws for the most secure fastening possible.

Using an Allen hex grub screw against a pin creates a strong hold, but to make that hold even more secure we supply most of our door handles with a ‘grooved’ or ‘slotted’ pin. The grooved mandrel is a special type of mandrel that is completely cut through on both ends and has a grooved “trough” surrounding the cut. The purpose of the groove is to receive the grub screw and locate it in the groove. The grub screw then wedges in the groove and opens the pin, creating lateral pressure and engaging the door handle or knob. This creates an extremely secure fixation.

So what if your grub screws keep falling out? Occasionally we are asked for advice by a customer whose grub screws seem to work themselves out and fall out of the door handles onto the floor. This can cause the door handle to detach from the door. Why is this happening? Well, the most common cause of this is that the spindles are installed the wrong way round, with the knurled or slotted surface facing away from the grub screw. In this case, the grub screw cannot bite into the spindle and will loosen over time and eventually fall to the ground. The problem with grub screws falling out is annoying, but it is almost always easy to fix. To fix the problem, you need to loosen the grub screws, remove the screws or bolts on the door handles, and remove the door handle on one side. Then pull out the spindle. You will most likely find that the grooved side of the spindle faces away from the tip of the grub screw. Simply turn the square so the grub screw can bite into the groove, reattach the door handles, re-tighten the grub screws, and you’re done – the problem of the grub screws falling out should be solved! If you need any help or further advice on grub screws, or would like to discuss your requirements further, please don’t hesitate to contact our helpful experts at More Handles HQ in Carlisle! We are happy to discuss any further grub screw and spindle issues with you and offer solutions to help you.

TEL – 01228 516 516

WEB – mehrgriffe.de

EMAIL – [email protected]

: A bolt penetrating any thickness or strata it binds or fastens in and is fastened by a nut at the end opposite the head

: A bolt penetrating any thickness or strata it binds or fastens in and is fastened by a nut at the end opposite the head

: A bolt penetrating any thickness or strata it binds or fastens in and is fastened by a nut at the end opposite the head

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When my painter was removing the knob on an interior door, he lost the two screws that held the knob in place. Does anyone happen to know what those screws are? They look like some kind of Phillips machine screw.

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Despite a decade-long decline, the number of burglaries committed in the United States still exceeded 900,000 in 2020, according to the FBI. Door locks can play a key role in continuing this trend by deterring potential intruders while helping to maintain privacy.

But there are a variety of locks on the market. Understanding the key differences between them is important in order to select the ideal device for your facility. Explore our guide to learn about seven different common door locks, how they work and when to use them.

What are the Different Types of Door Locks?

1. Button locks

Knob locks are the most common type of door lock and the primary security method for most doors. The lock cylinder is in the knob itself rather than in the door. Knob locks should therefore not be used on exterior doors as they can easily be picked with simple tools such as a hammer or wrench.

2. Cam locks

Cam locks consist of a fastener with an attached arm or cam that rotates to lock. They are cylindrical and have a metal tube with a hole on one side that helps position the bolt when inserting.

These door locks are typically used in vending machines, filing cabinets, desks or display cases to prevent unauthorized access. They are largely invisible in ready-made cabinets. Certain cam locks completely secure cabinet doors, making them attractive for securing sensitive materials.

3. Deadbolt locks

Latches offer even stronger protection against burglary or burglary. They have lock bolts that move without a spring when a knob or key is turned. Their unique locking mechanism is better equipped to withstand physical attacks, punches and drilling, making them less vulnerable to a knife or hand tool.

Deadbolt locks come in three main types: single, double and vertical. Single cylinder deadbolts are the simplest and can be activated from one side with a key. Double cylinder bolts can be used from both sides with a key. Vertical deadbolts work similarly to single and double deadbolts, but the lock moves up and down instead of horizontally. This orientation is more resistant to forced entry by prying open with a tool such as a crowbar.

4. Padlocks

Padlocks are free standing. Unlike other types of locks, they are portable and not permanently attached to a door or container. They are available in a variety of models that fall into two main categories: key and combination. Keyed padlocks also have a number of sub-types including keyed alike, keyed different and keyable.

Padlocks are easy to spot due to both their movable nature and their loop-handled shackle shape. They can be designed with raised shoulders around the shackle, also known as guarded or shrouded padlocks, to prevent bolt cutters from cutting through them.

5. Mortise locks

Mortise locks are powerful locks used on exterior doors and come in light and heavy models. They include an internal system, making them more like a lock than a lock.

These locks can accept either knobs or levers and offer more security than cylinder locks alone. They are threaded and use push-in components that are added in the door. The box lock is inserted into a deep recess or mortise in the edge of the door and secured with a set screw and cam, creating the locking mechanism. The cylinder component is available in different heights and lengths to fit different door types.

6. Keyboard locks

Keypad door locks can be opened with an attached numeric keypad instead of a key. They can be battery powered or mechanical, and typically use deadbolt, knob, or mortise locks for the actual locking mechanism. These door locks offer enhanced versatility and allow keyless access, although many also include keyholes for alternative unlocking mechanisms. Some keypad locks allow for multiple custom codes, allowing facility managers to easily restrict access.

7. Smart locks

Smart locks are versatile electronic door locks that offer more ways to lock and unlock a door. While many smart locks come with a keypad and keyhole, the main benefit of a smart lock is that it can be locked and unlocked with a phone or key fob. Many smart locks are also Wi-Fi or Bluetooth enabled and can connect to home automation services. These locks require power to use the connected functions and require regular battery changes.

More considerations on door locks

The above list is not all-inclusive. There are many other door locks and many fall into the seven categories of knob locks, deadbolt locks, cam locks, padlocks, mortise locks, smart locks and keypad locks. Door handle locks are used on interior doors, for example, and work in a similar way to knob locks.

In addition to the door lock, it is important to inspect the door for the lock installation. One of the most important factors to consider is the backset, which is measured from the center of the lock hole to the edge of the door. The backset of a door determines whether a lock will fit properly.

Door handness, or the direction in which the door swings when opened, is another crucial factor in lock installation. Some locks work with a specific handedness, while others work for both. For example, bolt locks can be easily installed on both door types. Door clearance depends on which side of the door the hinges are on; Hinges aligned to the right indicate a right-handed door, while hinges aligned to the left indicate a left-handed door.

Door locks perform a crucial function in homes and workplaces. Because of this, it’s important to invest time in doing proper research before choosing a door lock for your facility. It ensures that you choose the one that best suits your security and privacy needs.

: A bolt penetrating any thickness or strata it binds or fastens in and is fastened by a nut at the end opposite the head

: A bolt penetrating any thickness or strata it binds or fastens in and is fastened by a nut at the end opposite the head

: A bolt penetrating any thickness or strata it binds or fastens in and is fastened by a nut at the end opposite the head

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Door handles can be subjected to a great deal of force, which can loosen and wobble over time. Bolt-through fixing is the best way to attach door handles for a long, maintenance-free life. Essentially, the bolts that hold the handles to the door go through the door AND the lock case or latch case and attach into the rose handle on the other side. For this reason lock boxes and deadbolt boxes also need to be “bolted through” with holes in the right places (most are good quality these days, Doorstuffs ALL are, but if you’re using your existing locks and deadbolts it’s always best to do this do check them). Only door handles can be screwed onto rosettes, not the traditional sign shape, which is always mounted on top. Watch this YouTube video on installing door handles. It shows how the deadbolts and lock body fit together to create a strong end result.

Help & DIY Tips

Glossary of Terms

ARCHITECTURAL HARDWARE:

This is a term used for all hardware used in construction, but especially for doors, windows, cabinets and other movable objects.

BACK PLATE:

This is the panel on which either a handle or mortise knob is mounted.

backset:

This is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the pin or keyhole.

BATHROOM LOCK:

This is a lock that can be fitted to any interior door that has a latch operated by the handle and a deadbolt operated by a twist and release mechanism opposite a key.

When this type of lever lock is used on rose handles, twist and release elements must be purchased separately and should match the style and finish of the lever selected.

BATH SET OR BATHROOM FURNITURE:

These are rear panel lever handles with a built in twist and release mechanism for use with a bathroom lock.

BS3621:

British standard for lock security. The security level strongly recommended by the police and many insurance companies.

The standard includes many security features that ensure the lock is resistant to drilling, sawing or force attacks.

CABIN HOOK:

Used to hold a door in the open position. Generally used to hold double doors or French windows.

CASE:

This is the metal body of a lock or bolt that houses the mechanism.

MEDIUM DOORKNOBS & CABINET KNOBS:

These buttons are rigid, unlike mortise buttons which can be used in conjunction with a spindle to operate a latch plate.

CONCEALED ROSE BOARD:

This is a keyhole cover with a panel that hides the keyhole when not in use.

COVERED ROSE:

This term refers to the circular rosette on which a mortise knob or lever is mounted. If it is covered, it means that the screws and mounting holes are covered by an empty cover plate.

DEAD END:

This is a standard mortise lock that is fitted into the edge of a door and incorporates a square-ended deadbolt operated by a key or twist and release mechanism.

EMBLEM:

This is the surround plate used to cover the keyhole cut out in a door.

SKYLIGHT:

The name given to a window above a door or the skylight of some windows.

FINGERPLATE:

This is simply a panel used to cover the area of ​​the door that is most likely to be touched. This protects the surface of the door from wear.

FRONT PLATE:

This is the forend of a lock or latch visible on the edge of the door, through which the latch plate and bolt protrude.

LOCK:

This is the spring-loaded tongue operated by a handle that secures but does not latch the door.

LEVER:

E.g. three lever wing lock – in this case it refers to the number of levers inside the lock that are actuated when the key is turned.

The more levers a lock contains, the more secure it usually is. Most insurance companies require that all exterior doors be fitted with a five-lever lock.

LEVER HANDLE:

This is a horizontal lever used to operate the locking mechanism. These handles are usually spring loaded to ensure the lever returns to its horizontal position.

Lever handles may be preferred to mortise knobs if the door is used frequently by people with full hands. It’s fairly easy to depress a lever with an elbow, while a mortise button requires a free hand to operate.

INSERT:

This is a recess cut in the edge of a door to accommodate a lock or deadbolt box.

INSERT KNOB:

This is a doorknob with a pin that can be turned to operate a latching tongue. Unlike a medium door knob or cabinet knob which are rigid.

It’s important to choose a lock with a backset of at least 80mm to ensure your knuckles don’t rub against the door frame during operation.

DISCOUNT KITS:

Double doors usually have a folded edge where they converge when closed.

When installing mortise locks or latches, a rabbet kit must be purchased in order for the forend/strikes to fit properly.

RIM LOCK OR LATCH:

This refers to a lock or deadbolt that attaches to the front of a door, as opposed to a mortise lock or deadbolt that is inserted into a recess cut in the door.

A case lock furniture set usually consists of a pair of case knobs, a spindle, a case lock and a rosette (keyhole cover) for the outside of the door.

A set of edge locking furniture is the same, apart from the fact that a shield would not be required as there would be no keyhole.

ROLLER BOLT:

This is an alternative way to secure a closed door instead of a deadbolt. A roller bolt can be operated with a simple pull handle.

ROSE:

This is a circular plate on which the handle or knob is mounted.

A concealed rosette simply means that the screws and holes that attach the rosette to the door are covered by a cover.

FLAT LOCK:

A mortise lock incorporating both a latch (operated by door handles) and a deadbolt (operated by a key).

SNIB:

This is a small button or switch on the body of a nightlock that allows the latch plate to be locked in an open or closed position.

SPINDLE:

This is a square bar inserted through the latch case, which connects the pushers and enables the latch latch to be actuated.

LOCKING PLATE:

This is a plate attached to the door frame with one or more holes for the latch tongue or deadbolt to engage.

TWIST UP:

The twist was used to operate a deadbolt or privacy lock that did not require a key.

TUBE LOCK:

This is a much smaller device than, say, a crate lock. It requires a much smaller recess to be cut in the door and is therefore much quicker and easier to fit.

TWIST AND RELEASE:

Used with a bathroom lock for privacy, typically on bedroom or bathroom doors.

By turning the rotary knob, the door can be locked from the inside without a key. They can also be operated from the outside with a coin or a screwdriver for emergency opening.