Bamboo Rod Binder Plans? The 87 Top Answers

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Are bamboo rods worth anything?

Yes, antique bamboo rods are unique and sought-after collection pieces. But you won’t become a millionaire if you have or find one! The most expensive bamboo rod sold in an auction was about 20’000$ worth. But more generally if you get 3000$ this is a very good price.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

question

This two piece split bamboo fly rod still has part of a tag inside. I can see the last three letters of a word gue and another word of “port”. There is a fish with green on the gill plate and red behind the figure and the handle is wood and the guides and ferrule are brass. What is that?

Are bamboo rods strong?

Bamboo is actually an amazingly ‘strong’ material. From a tensile point of view it is stronger than steel and from a compressive point of view stronger than concrete. It is claimed that from a weight-to-strength point of view it is comparable to graphite (at least in theory).

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

I’m often asked how “strong” bamboo sticks are and how they compare to graphite sticks in terms of “strength”.

First let me say that we have to be a little careful when we use the words “strong” and “strength”. From an engineering perspective, “strength” broadly refers to a material’s ability to resist failure from “shear” (think shearing action), “tension” (pulling and stretching), and “compression” (upsetting). Different materials have different shear, compressive, and tensile strengths, and rods made of different materials are therefore strong (or not) in different ways. But we can assume that the strength question is essentially about finding out “will my bamboo stick break easily” and “how does its strength compare to graphite”?

First a bit about bamboo. Bamboo is actually an amazingly “strong” material. It is more tensile than steel and more compressive than concrete. It is claimed to be comparable to graphite from a weight-to-strength point of view (at least in theory). Bamboo sticks are primarily made from the Arundinaria Amabilis or “Tonkin” species of bamboo. It is a bamboo that only grows in a very specific area in China. Arundinaria Amabilis is one of the strongest of all bamboo species. When you consider how light bamboo is compared to steel or concrete and that it is very sustainable because it grows very quickly, you get an idea of ​​what a special material it really is. It is therefore not surprising that in the East it is widely used for high-rise building scaffolding, for heavy-duty bicycle frames and for building bridges. etc.

I mentioned above that bamboo is theoretically comparable to graphite in terms of weight to strength ratio, but this is clearly not the case in reality. Bamboo sticks are usually significantly heavier than graphite sticks (which is also their charm, by the way). Why is this? I’m not an engineer, but I understand that the answer lies in the critical area of ​​stress. Stress can be very broadly understood as an internal force in a material which, when exceeding the strength limit of the material, will result in deformation and/or fracture of the material. For bars, stress is primarily a function of the “tensile strength” (the ability to resist tension or stretching) of the material and the “modulus of elasticity” (essentially the cross-sectional shape/area) on which the force is applied. The basic difference between graphite and bamboo is that graphite has a higher tensile strength than bamboo. So for a bamboo stick to perform as well as a graphite stick, the cross-sectional shape of the bamboo would need to be much larger. Although bamboo is comparable to graphite from weight to strength, the increased size required to match the stiffness and the fact that it cannot in practice be made hollow means that the weight of the bamboo stick increases.

The advantage of graphite over bamboo is therefore its higher tensile strength and rigidity. This allows designers to focus on making bars with greater stiffness without worrying too much about excessive stresses. It is therefore easier to make really stiff rods out of graphite than out of bamboo. Conversely, bamboo designers must carefully balance tension and stiffness BUT they have the benefit of being able to more easily create ‘softer’ rods due to bamboo’s lower tensile strength.

In my opinion, for stillwater and saltwater rods, which often require heavier lines and flies, stiffness is probably a more desirable attribute overall, and the material that works better for stillwater and saltwater rods is probably graphite. On the other hand, when it comes to stream fishing, it’s definitely more desirable to have softness, and this is where bamboo comes into its own. There are of course times when it is wonderful to fish for bamboo on still waters, e.g. B. when tubing or fishing from the edge, and graphite also comes into its own on larger rivers

Another thing about the “science” of fracture: when a rod bends, what happens to the material is that the outer surface elongates and stretches under “tension” and the inner surface shrinks under “compression.” If the stretch or compression is too great for the material used, the material will “break” on the outer surface or “pinch” on the inner surface, or both. How much strain and compression actually occurs in a bent bar depends on the diameter of the cross-section and the radius of the bend curve. A large diameter bar will experience more strain and compression on its outer surfaces than a smaller diameter bar when both are bent to the same radius. For example, a broomstick breaks long before a thin dowel made of the same wood because its outer surface stretches further and its inner surface compresses more than the thin dowel, so the material’s limit is reached sooner. The key difference is that if the broomstick is subjected to too much stress, it will break while the thin dowel will simply bend. Neither breaking nor bending is generally desirable for buildings, so the design of structural elements must balance between the two. Indeed, in a fishing rod, flexing is desirable, so structurally the compromise is less critical.

Dugmore Bamboo Fly Rods

The “elasticity” of the material also determines how much stretching and bending it can withstand. E.g. A rubber rod can be tied in a knot without breaking, while a shard of glass will break with very little bending. In this context, it should be noted that bamboo is more elastic than graphite and is therefore more likely to bend and, at worst, “deform” before actually breaking.

Okay, so much for the “technical” part, the question remains, will my bamboo stick be likely to break and will it do so more easily than my graphite stick? The simple answer to these questions is no – bamboo does not break more often. This is because, as mentioned above, a bamboo cane is designed to withstand the stresses that cause it to break, and bamboo has enough elasticity to bend to the required radii. Graphite rods are also usually hollow, while bamboo is solid. This plays a role in their respective ability to withstand crushing.

So let’s look at the conditions under which rods typically break, look at the differences between how bamboo and graphite rods behave in these conditions and suggest ways to avoid rod breakage in general. Before we do that, there is another fundamental difference between bamboo and graphite that we need to consider. And that’s bamboo, especially on fine tip rods, taking on a “set” rather than actually breaking. A “settle” simply means that after the load is released, the bar remains in a partially bent shape, i. H. the rod is “deformed” as mentioned above. This has advantages and disadvantages. The ‘pro’ is that you can continue fishing a rod on a set with little or no discernible difference and, more importantly, a set can most likely be straightened out again. The downside is that if the internal structure is damaged, the set will repeat itself. On balance, this is still better than a complete rest, albeit less than ideal. Graphite rods, on the other hand, do not deform when overloaded – they simply break:

Causes of breakage/damage to bars and how to avoid them

1 foot. Probably the most common cause of rod breakage is your or your fishing buddies’ feet. i.e. being “trampled”. If the ground is uneven there is a good chance your rod will shear off. You probably have a better chance of getting away with one foot stomping a bamboo pole. This is because graphite rods, being hollow and thin-walled, also break very easily. Bamboo does not crush. On a very flat surface, you could drive your car over your bamboo pole with no ill effects!

Remedy – Do not leave poles on the ground or anywhere where they can be accidentally stepped on

2. Doors. Also a very common one – especially car doors and boots. The likelihood of door breaches and end result is similar to “foot stomping” but with even greater likelihood of shear fracture – the door acts like a guillotine or scissors. Again, graphite is probably more vulnerable than bamboo. Personally, I locked a bamboo rod tip completely in a car door and then fished the rod anyway (although I was lucky and didn’t always get off so lightly!) The chances of Graphite surviving that are close to zero.

Remedy – Do not go through doors with bars assembled, do not leave bars leaning against a car, and leave bars in their tubes when disassembled. If there is no safe place to lean your rod, a good tip is to lay the rod tip up on your windshield and tuck the handle under a wiper blade to hold the rod in place

3. Jabbing/rod carrying. Countless staffs break when bumped into rocks, trees, bushes, etc. Most often this happens when walking with a mounted stick. Both bamboo and graphite rods are equally likely to break when pricked.

Remedy – Move your rod up or back and be extra careful and alert when walking through thick bush, jumping over boulders, wading on slippery rocks, etc.

Remedy – Do not hold a pole by the tip. Always keep below the middle.

4. Indoor fishing. Setting up and taking down a rod indoors is always risky. Jabbing, fan stabbing, doors, feet, kids, pets, etc. all come into play.

Remedy – Resist assembling/disassembling and swinging sticks around indoors if possible.

5. Standard cast. Rods rarely break when thrown regularly. Graphite rods are probably a little more prone to this than bamboo. The main cause of cast breaks are small breaks in the rod due to the rod being hit by a fly at some point before, hitting a stone etc. Heavy flies with beads etc are major causes. Thinner-walled graphite is more prone to this type of damage.

Remedy – Not much can be done about this other than setting the casting stroke to an ellipse when fishing heavy flies and avoiding the rod hitting rocks while fishing

6. Unusual casting. Casts like bow and arrow casts put exceptional strain on the tip of any rod. Bamboo is probably more vulnerable than graphite in these cases, but no rod wants to be overly flexed in the finest part of the rod

Remedy – Do not pull the line straight down the rod parallel to it with hands close together. Spread your arms wide to form a wide angle between rod and line.

7. Fish fights. This is similar to casting as similar stresses are induced in the rod. It is unusual for a rod to break against a fish during a ‘normal’ fight. And surprisingly large fish can be easily landed with the right technique, even on light rods. Overall, if breakage were to occur, graphite is likely to be more vulnerable than bamboo again due to the likelihood of fly-induced breakage. ‘Faster’ rods are also more vulnerable as the tip flexes at a tighter radius which, as mentioned above, increases stress in that area. The most vulnerable spot for any rod is when the fish is close by or, for example, when wading in a stream, when the fish darts close past you downstream while your rod is still pointing upstream. At this point, the stresses are similar to bow and arrow throwing, with bamboo being more vulnerable here.

Remedy – Similar to throwing a bow and arrow, keep the angle between rod and line as wide as possible when a fish is nearby. Essentially, you want to maximize the radii of bends in a rod, i.e. avoid bends that are too tight.

8. The fly is stuck in bushes or rocks. This is similar to fish fighting, except the stress can be much higher (depending on your level of frustration!)

Remedy – Do not yank at a stuck fly with the rod. If it doesn’t come off with a slight wiggle, it’s better to point the rod directly at the fly and pull on the line itself. You might lose the fly (not the rod)

9. Ferrule damage. Both graphite and bamboo sticks are susceptible to damage to the ferrules as a result of any of the above conditions. Graphite sections may tend to break more easily at the ferrules than bamboo because they tend to partially come apart more often than bamboo. This separation creates additional stress on the ferrule

Remedy – There isn’t much you can do to avoid this other than making sure your ferrules are fully seated and checking the fit from time to time while fishing, especially on rods that tend to drift apart

10. Climatic conditions. Both bamboo and graphite rods are susceptible to extreme heat or humidity, but bamboo is even more so. Bamboo is more prone to warping under these conditions, and excessive heat can damage certain adhesives used in bamboo sticks. Graphite doesn’t tend to suffer structural damage, although the stick can suffer aesthetically.

Workaround – This is simply avoided. Store a bamboo rod, or no rod at all, in a wet rod bag for long periods of time. It’s okay to keep your rod under water for as long as you like when fishing – just don’t put it away wet. And don’t leave your rod in a very hot spot – like on the dashboard of your closed car in midsummer. Chances are the rod is absolutely fine if you do any of the above, but it’s very easy not to.

11. Assemble/Disassemble Poles. Both rods are equally at risk of being ‘poked’ – usually into your fishing partner, car or other fixed object. There is also a risk of damaging the guides when inserting a rod into a tube

Remedy – Assemble/Disassemble with space around you. One point to note here is that you do not twist or twist bamboo ferrules like you do with graphite. They should simply slide together in the correct orientation and pull straight apart. With both graphite and bamboo sticks, try to keep the ferrules free of grit etc. during assembly to avoid possible jamming. The rule for both poles is “hands together, pole together.” Hands apart, staff apart”.

Remedy – Make your hand an “O” over the top of the tube as you slide the rod into the tube. The flesh of your fingers on the inside of the “O” acts as a soft cushion for the guides.

12. Thread on the rod/take out the leader. Again, we may encounter the heavy stress situation with bow and arrow.

Remedy – Pull the line straight back against the resistance of the reel or a knot, not parallel to the rod head. It is better to first pull the line from the spool, and then pull out or cast the line with your hands spread.

13. Leaving the rods in a bent position. Since graphite rods don’t typically take sets, hanging them tightly together or leaning against something in a bent position for long periods of time is usually fine. This is not the case with bamboo. Bamboo dislikes staying in a hunched position for long periods of time as this can lead to a set. Stringing too tight, especially on a fine tip rod, will stress out the bow and arrow caster again

Remedy – Slacken your stringing when walking between spots to avoid bending the rod tip into a curve and prefer to disassemble your rod at night

14. Overloading/Line Weights – Rods are designed for specific line weights. That said, each rod should be able to comfortably cast a line weight up or down from its designation. It’s worth trying different lineweights as you may prefer a different lineweight setup for different conditions. E.g. A heavier line when conditions are best for short range fishing and a lighter line when you are fishing for longer lengths etc. However, if you overload the rod with 2 line weights or more and then try to cast to the other side of the lake, you can overload the rod.

Remedy – Don’t intentionally push rods to their limits. Respect what you want them to do and how it makes them feel. A 000wt is clearly not intended for long distance throwing competitions and a 9wt is not intended for introducing size 32 gnats to Brookies in a tiny stream. If you want to cast “out of the park” focus mostly on technique and choose a heavier line weight rod designed to handle heavier loads.

Rod Repair/Maintenance – What to do if your rod parts become damaged?

In the case of graphite rods, the fractured areas usually have to be replaced.

With bamboo poles you have two possible states.

Trimmings – Most trimmings in bamboo sticks can be removed by gently heating the curved section – a hair dryer works well for this. Make sure it’s just hot enough that you can still hold it with your fingers and not too hot to melt the polish! Then bend the stick against the set and hold it there until the stick cools down a bit. It should straighten out when you let go. Sometimes this takes a few tries to get it perfectly straight. If you’re nervous about doing this yourself, any bamboo rod maker can do it for you. Occasionally a rod will take a small set after a long fight with a big fish. In these cases you can rotate the rod 180 degrees during the fight and/or swing the rod back and forth after the fight to relieve the stress and the rod will straighten out. The ability to take out sets is highly dependent on the type of glue used to make the rod.

Breaks – This depends on the type of break. Bamboo has long fibers and breaking can sometimes result in a break with some fibers still intact. These breaks can sometimes be repaired by carefully resealing the break. If your rod breaks like this, leave it as is and have a bamboo rod maker look at it for you – don’t break off the hanging piece. For clean breaks, a new piece of profile can be bumped onto the bar, or a completely new profile can be made. The only difficulty with the latter is that it can be difficult to get the color to match perfectly. Because the bamboo and varnish colors vary from rod to rod.

So the bottom line is that bamboo is no more likely to break than graphite but it is worth remembering that any rod (and indeed any tackle) needs to be treated with a certain level of care and respect if it is to function at its best.

See Steve Dugmore’s bamboo rods website http://www.freestonerods.co.za/

How long does it take to make a bamboo fly rod?

Craftsmanship and Process

While all bamboo rodmakers approach the rodbuilding process in slightly different ways, the bottom line is that it often takes on the order of 40-80 hours of work to build a quality fly rod.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Introduction | history | Bamboo 101 | Design & Construction | Bamboo vs. Graphite | Craftsmanship | Famous Manufacturers | Modern bamboo sticks | Gathering Sticks | More resources

Interest in bamboo fly rods has experienced a renaissance over the past two decades. This is a welcome development, especially for those of us who have been around for quite a while! Trends come and go, but bamboo fly rods – and what they represent – clearly have staying power. If anything, many more people are now interested in their history and the intricacies of their manufacture.

There are a number of good resources on specific subjects which I am happy to recommend, but this is intended only as a useful starting point for those new to bamboo fly rods who are wondering where to start. We will cover several topics:

A brief history of bamboo fly rods and what makes them so special. An overview of how they are constructed. Some recommendations on where to find rods, names to look for and suggestions for anglers and collectors.

So if you’re just getting started with bamboo fly rods and want to know what all the fuss is about, you’ve come to the right place.

First, let’s go back for a little historical context. Bamboo fly rods were a 19th century innovation. Before their development, the sport of fly-fishing used gear that would be barely recognizable (let alone handle) by modern standards. Huge sticks of wood were the norm in the early 19th century, many of which were weighed in pounds rather than ounces. As with fly fishing in general, rod building techniques were transplanted to America from Europe and many of the construction methods had their roots in England and Scotland.

“Greenheart” rods are perhaps the best known from the pre-bamboo era. Greenheart is dark, almost mahogany in colour, and you can easily spot it by visiting a fly fishing museum and stopping by the fly rod exhibition. Many rods were well over 10 feet long, and salmon rods could easily reach 15 or 16 feet. Although some actually cast surprisingly well given their massive bulk, even the broadest chested Scotsman would have needed a small sip after a day’s fishing.

It’s no surprise then that rod makers of the time kept their eyes peeled for making fly rods a little lighter and more user friendly. Bamboo was used in various functions, often in simple, somewhat rustic forms, during the first half of the 19th century. Samuel Phillipe, a Pennsylvania gunsmith, is credited with being the first rod maker to build the hexagonal bamboo rod in 1849, although his reach and reputation were modest.

Hiram Leonard – godfather of the bamboo fly rod and creator of the eponymous HL Leonard Rod Company – is widely credited with popularizing bamboo as a superior alternative to wood. While early attempts used Calcutta bamboo and sanded down the edges where the bamboo strips came together to give it a familiar, rounded look, over time Hiram realized that he could make a stronger rod by leaving more of the outer bamboo left – where the strongest fibers are – intact. This, coupled with the use of the far superior Tonkin cane (so named for its source in the hills surrounding the Gulf of Tonkin in China) helped produce what we would now call a ‘modern’ bamboo fly rod . Although they were still on the big side, at least by today’s standards, the basics were there. The bamboo fly rod as we know it today was born.

Over the years the HL Leonard Rod Company has prospered along with a number of other companies and manufacturers, many of which are still sources of admiration and even awe among bamboo fly rod enthusiasts. That 150 year history and the craftsmanship of the men and women behind it are a big part of what makes it so special.

bamboo 101

At the most general level, bamboo fly rods are constructed by taking long strips from the outer part of the bamboo plant – the species Arundinaria Amabilis or sometimes Pseudosasa Amabilis – and gluing them together, often in either a square or hexagonal (pentagonal and heptagonal) shape. exist but are relatively rare). The purpose behind this design is simple: to maximize the use of bamboo’s “power fibres”, the proportion of particularly dense fibers on the outside of the plant.

As Hiram quickly realized while working in his workshop in Bangor, Maine in 1869, bamboo is a near-perfect material for constructing a fly rod. Having grown hundreds of feet tall on windy slopes, Tonkin bamboo has evolved to be both incredibly strong and flexible. In fact, you could say that the swaying motion of the Tonkin cane in its natural habitat almost perfectly mimics the angler’s ten-and-two casting stroke in his!

The challenge was to harness this powerful part of the plant by taking the aforementioned bamboo strips, cutting them into carefully predetermined conical sizes, and then gluing those strips back together. This is perhaps where the rod maker’s creative skills come into play together with the attention to detail.

Construction fundamentals: tapers, nodes and ferrules

Ask any rod builder about the topic of ‘taper’ and you better get comfortable – it’s a subject of great passion and excitement for anyone who has attempted to build a fly rod. The “taper” in question is just that – how the rod tapers from butt to tip. How steep that taper is has a profound effect on a rod’s performance and manufacturers have been tinkering, modifying, comparing and developing tapers for as long as bamboo fly rods have existed. In fact, they can be – and often are – the difference between a stick that acts as a graceful watering tool and one that could be better used for staking tomatoes in your garden.

Functionally, the taper determines the action of the rod – how its mass moves back and forth through a casting plane – which in turn determines how power is transmitted to the fly line at the other end. A well made fly rod with a sensible taper design that conforms well to an angler’s natural cast will enable him or her to cast nice tight loops. Some actions are intentionally a little slower and more methodical, while others are a little sharper, but both will work well if thoughtfully designed.

Two other critical components to fly rod design – and which are less recognized by the casual observer – are a fly rod’s knot placement and the design and quality of the ferrules.

Knots are natural weak points in the bamboo’s outer strength fibers (not all bamboo is perfect, it turns out!) that the builder must anticipate in order to maintain the integrity of the rod. Placing too many of these knots in a single location increases the risk of breakage or failure. Most rod builders deal with this by spreading them evenly across the rod following some well established patterns.

Finally, there are ferrules, the joints that hold the rod sections together. While there have been a variety of approaches to ferrule design over the last century and a half – from splicing to locking joints to avoiding them altogether by building one-piece rods – the modern standard ferrule plays a major role in fly rod design. Sure they make life a little more portable for the angler, but they also affect the power transmission through the rod. Well designed, well made ferrules placed in the right places preserve the natural strength and flexibility of the bamboo itself.

Bamboo Fly Rod vs Graphite Fly Rod

For the vast majority of today’s anglers, graphite will have been the only fly rod material they have ever known. And graphite does have some phenomenal properties. For one, its strength-to-weight ratio far exceeds anything bamboo could ever achieve, which in turn allows for the razor-thin walls of today’s graphite rods (most graphite rods today are almost amazingly light). And second, they’re cheap, thanks to cheap overseas facilities where most graphite fly rods are made these days – more ‘manufactured’ than ‘manufactured’. You can get a perfectly fishable graphite fly rod for the price of a decent dinner (although this may be a double-edged blessing as a major concern often debated among rod makers I know who build graphite rods is today’s cost-effective lifespan Guarantee, approach to fly rod manufacturing has led to a ‘race to the bottom’ in fly rod quality – a topic for another time).

So what will the angler notice when they first pick up a bamboo fly rod? First and foremost, of course, is the slight weight gain. But once you start throwing a bamboo rod you will no doubt notice the finer, more deliberate throwing line. Bamboo fly rods tend to feel smoother. Or as it is sometimes said – a graphite fly rod “shoots” while a bamboo fly rod “throws” – an apt description in my opinion. Best of all, when the rod is tailored to the individual angler – we rod builders often try to create a ‘custom’ action for our customers – then the casting action becomes all the sweeter.

Second, there is the question of fighting a fish. Nothing – and I mean nothing – compares to battling a healthy, fiery fish on a bamboo fly rod. Without getting too poetic, a bamboo stick tends to “come alive” with a fish on the other end. For those of us for whom that connection is a big part of what makes fly fishing fun, this is a huge plus.

And finally, of course, it’s the question of craftsmanship, all those little details that go into making a bamboo fly rod an aesthetic beauty beyond its purely functional dimension. Most quality rod makers are equal parts engineers and artists and work meticulously on the rod varnish finish, guide wraps, hardware design or any number of other tiny details that need to work together to create a thing of beauty. This is something you just won’t get from a mass market fly rod.

craft and process

Whilst all bamboo rod manufacturers approach the rod building process in slightly different ways, the end result is that it often takes on the order of 40-80 man hours to build a quality fly rod. And that doesn’t take into account the significant downtime waiting for the glue to set or the paint to cure. Most reputable full-time rod builders that I know only make a few rods a year, maybe a dozen or two depending on schedule and customer demand.

Once an order has been taken, the process involves hundreds of tiny steps to complete a bamboo fly rod, although broadly the process can be broken down into four stages.

Bamboo preparation and construction

During this phase the rod maker selects bamboo, splits it and prepares it for cutting into strips. Some rod makers plan these strips by hand while others use a beveling or milling machine. Once cut with their appropriate tapers, these strips are then glued into their four or six strip shape.

hardware construction

Not all rod manufacturers make their own hardware, but those that do need to make ferrules, front and rear cork controls and reel seat hardware in preparation for assembly.

Assembly & assembly

At this point the hardware is mounted onto the bamboo sections that have been cut to the correct length. The rod is typically given a pre-coat and the handle is fitted and moulded.

Finish the work

Finally the guides are adjusted and fitted, the rod is varnished and any final cosmetic work is completed. The rod also receives a final straightening before going into its tube and on to its new owner.

Famous makers

For the uninitiated, there is a confusing collection of names attached to bamboo fly rods. Some are acknowledged as true champions and widely admired by bamboo rod enthusiasts, while others are not so good and their influence is more regional.

As with many crafts, the knowledge of bamboo fly rod construction was often passed from one person to another, creating a number of lineages.

For collectors, below are some of the most valuable makers, loosely grouped by geography and connection to each other.

Modern fly rods made of bamboo

Collecting bamboo fly rods

Today the craze for bamboo fly rods is perhaps at an all time high and we have seen a dizzying increase in manufacturers, many producing on a small scale (a few full time rod makers with ties to the earlier rod shops still make rods of course – like I mean – but the landscape is more diffuse and less concentrated than it used to be). For the most part, this spread has been a good thing. The internet has made it easier to share best practices and for rod builders to try and test new approaches. Rod manufacturers have largely pushed the boundaries in rod design in the direction of increasingly specialized rod models. The downside, at least for those in the know, is that it can be difficult to understand this spread and make meaningful distinctions when contemplating buying a bamboo pole. As always, it’s best to do your homework and ask lots of questions.

The collector market for bamboo fly rods and vintage fishing tackle more broadly remains healthy. There are a number of collectors around the world who have built extensive collections of rods, reels and other accessories and many more who are eager to buy rods and reels when their more modest budgets allow. Some collectors gravitate toward specific makers or styles, while others tend to collect a broader cross-section of works. As with most collectors, the opportunity to pick up a rare and valuable find can be an irresistible and exhilarating habit!

While values ​​fluctuate and certain manufacturers and names rise and fall in popularity, most collectors tend to focus on the higher end of the market, where quality and scarcity are the two main drivers of interest and demand. Unfortunately, many of the rods people encounter are the mass-produced models of the post-war boom that have little value today. However, it’s always worth doing some homework to see what you might have on your hands, just to be sure! Collectors today have roughly three ways to find new tackle:

You can scrounge through general property sales and little-known auctions, which is typically a labor-intensive but potentially rewarding endeavor. You can participate in the small handful of tackle-focused auctions that tend to present more obvious opportunities. You can go to a reputable dealer who will ensure that the collector gets exactly what he is looking for.

All three options have pros and cons, of course, but offer aspiring collectors different ways to build their collections.

Resources for reading/learning

Classic Rods & Rod Makers – Martin Keane

Master’s Guide to Building a Bamboo Fly Rod – Hoagy Carmichael

What type of bamboo is used for fly rods?

Materials. Gather your rod making materials. First, you will need a 10 to 12-foot piece of Tonkin cane, which is the type of bamboo most often used in rod making due to its long, dense fibers. You can order Tonkin cane online.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

While bamboo fly rods tend to be heavier than graphite fly rods, the added weight of bamboo makes casting short lengths of line easier with this type of rod. Bamboo also has a natural flexibility as the fibers vary in density. This natural flexibility can really enhance the feel of fly fishing lines when loaded on the best bamboo fly rods.

When learning how to make bamboo fly fishing rods, there are different methods, tools, and techniques that can be used. The simplest method can be broken down into eight steps. If the steps below seem too complex, you can always shorten the process a bit by purchasing prepared bamboo fly rod kits.

STEPS TO MAKING BAMBOO FLY RODS

Materials. Gather your rod crafting materials. First you will need a 10 to 12 foot length of Tonkin cane, which is the type of bamboo most commonly used in rod making due to its long, dense fibers. You can order Tonkin Pipe online. Other items you will need are: a heat gun, glue binder, wood splitter, lock plane, spokeshave, connector blocks, standard screwdriver with sharpened blade, vernier calipers, 60 degree dial indicator, depth gauge, machined nickel silver rod sleeves, guides , silk thread and three steel planning shapes. Split. The bamboo pole is then split into six to eight pieces with a special wooden knife called a froe. These larger pieces of bamboo are then split into narrower strips using a standard screwdriver with a sharpened blade. You should end up with six strips from the bottom five feet of the bar or straw – these will be used for your butt section. The tip of the fly rod is made from the top five feet, and since most rods have an extra tip, you should divide the top five feet of the bamboo into 12 pieces. storage and heating. Since bamboo culms naturally have bumps or knots, the next step is to file or sand the knots and then smooth them out with a heat gun. Once the bamboo pieces are heated, the strips should be clamped in a vise to smooth out any unevenness as the bamboo cools. Turn stripes into a triangle. When learning how to make bamboo fly rods, you will need to use a surface planer to shape your strips of bamboo cane into equilateral triangles. Once the strips have been formed into equilateral triangles, you need to temporarily tie them together with string and place them in an oven to heat treat (heat removes moisture). When the bamboo cools, simply remove the string. taper of the stripes. Your next step is to taper the bamboo strips and then glue them together to form the bamboo fly rod blank. The strips can be tapered by hand or by machine. Most anglers who make their own bamboo fly rods use a hand held log planer in addition to a planning form – this is used to trim excess cane from the bamboo strips and shape your tapers. The depth of the groove in the planning form should be set to the correct measurements and the equilateral triangle shape of your bamboo strip placed in the groove. From there, use the hand plane to shave off any excess bamboo above the surface of the mold. The size of the stripe should be a reflection of the depth set in the shape. This process should be repeated with each individual strip. Glue your blank. After the strips have been tapered for each of your rod sections, they can be glued together with an epoxy. Use a toothbrush to apply glue to the strips during this step. From there, roll each section into a hexagonal shape and use the pole glue binder to twist the sections under pressure and attach the tie cord along the length of the pole blank. Each section should be passed through the tie twice so that two opposite spiral wraps are attached. Next, each section should be rolled out on a flat surface to eliminate any bends or kinks. Then let your rod blank dry. After the glue has set, the string is removed and excess glue is ground or scraped off the blank. The sections are again straightened with the heat gun and cut to the appropriate length. Installation of the ferrules. Once your fly rod blank has been ground or filed to the correct diameter, it is time to insert and install the ferrules. The ferrules hold the sections of your bamboo fly rod together. Apply epoxy to the inside of the ferrule and seat area of ​​your blank, position the male and female ferrules onto the seat area and then allow the rod to cure for a week or two. wrapping the guides. You are almost done making a bamboo fly rod. Once you have determined what type and weight of fly line your rod is best suited for, you can begin to wrap the rings around your rod. The number of guides used will depend on the length of your rod, but you can use the standard formula of one guide per foot (plus a tip scraper guide).

Once your rod has set and the guides secured, you can begin assembling the rest of your fly fishing gear. Select an appropriate fly reel based on the weight of your rod, add the appropriately weighted fly line and then head to a local stream to test out your handcrafted fly rod creation.

Why are bamboo fly rods so expensive?

Because they take a long time to make and so much hand labor goes into them they are expensive. But you have a chance to win one this month, just for trying on a pair of waders. Don’t miss this opportunity—you won’t see many chances to get a free bamboo rod.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Many people today consider bamboo fly rods more of an heirloom than a fishing tool, but there are also many anglers who only use bamboo. In fact, there are probably more people fishing with these rods today than 10 or 20 years ago. My love affair with bamboo began in the late 1960s. My first fly rod was a tubular steel rod that I found in the rafters of our garage. It was probably made in the 1930’s and belonged to my father who may have used it once or twice but after returning from Okinawa in 1945 he was drawn in by the siren song of the new spinning rods. They were much easier to handle, and besides, his favorite fish was bullhead, not trout.

When I was 12 I started tying flies commercially for a local shop and was able to buy my first good fly rod, an Orvis Fullflex which I built from a blank. (Before that I’d gone through a couple of $20 fiberglass rods, including a blue Garcia Mitchell I bought at the local Western Auto and of course a white Shakespeare Wonderod. I doubt anyone who grew up fly fishing during that time , having survived without owning at least one of these.) This Fullflex has served me well, but at the time I was often fishing very small dry flies with 7X tips at a local spring creek and felt I needed something better.

I’ve finally tied enough Coleman’s March Brown nymphs, Light Hendricksons and Tups Indispensibles to make enough money for my first bamboo rod. It was an Orvis Madison 7 ½ foot 6 weight and I still remember the first cast I did in a trout stream with it. The cast was a revelation. The Adams size 14 went exactly where I wanted it, the hooklink lined up perfectly and I quickly discovered why all good anglers use bamboo. It wasn’t affectation or a display of status – all the other fly fishermen I knew were much older than me, but they were school teachers and toolmakers and people who made films at Kodak. A bamboo rod really was a better fly rod than the glass rods back then and if you were serious about fishing this was the only way.

Nowadays you can buy bamboo fly rods that will easily handle big flies and split shot, but back then the rods I used, Orvis and Leonard Duracanes, really weren’t up to the task of the big stuff. I used to build “sets” (a semi-permanent bend in a bamboo pole caused by stress that can be removed by a good rod maker through judicious application of heat) into my rods every year because we were going into the East Branch of Delaware few times a year and fish big flick stonefly nymphs with two or three split shots for the big wild rainbows that lived in the heavier ripples on this river.

I never went back to fiberglass (until last year when I started using the new Orvis Superfine glass rods) and fished bamboo throughout my college years until I hired Orvis in 1976 for an interview as a clerk at a retail store in Manchester, Vermont. visited. After my conversation, one of the salespeople in the pond behind the shop let me try one of the new graphite rods. When I got the job, I could borrow graphite sticks from the store every night after work. The new rods felt stiff and powerful and were so fast I had trouble getting used to them. And to be honest, bamboo was much better suited for small dry flies and delicate work than those early graphite rods; Because rod makers were so excited by the line speed and distance that early rods could develop, they weren’t concerned with making delicacy an option. It took 10 years to perfect the first graphite rods that could really handle a small dry fly and light hooklinks.

My Leonard rods stay in the closet and I haven’t fished one in years. But my Orvis Penn’s Creek is exercised regularly. Sure, I could use the rod every day, but I’d rather make it a special event. I wait for dry fly fishing to become productive on the small creeks in early summer and then tie off some knotted leaders like I used to use and pant dry flies through the ripples. Later in the summer when the tricos get active I like to fish a size 24 spinner with my bamboo and a 15ft 7X hooklink. There’s just something about the feel of bamboo, both when casting and playing fish, that makes the rod feel more alive. Maybe it’s because of the mass of the staff, maybe because it’s solid rather than hollow. Part of that I’m sure is knowing that one person, Charlie Hisey, hand made the entire rod from start to finish and treated it like a rod he would use himself. Or maybe it’s just a special magic inherent in this amazing natural product that cannot be duplicated with plastic or composite materials.

I just appreciate this rod and once or twice in the winter I take the rod out of its tube and just wiggle and admire it for a few minutes. Funny, I never do that with my graphite rods.

If you are a fly fisherman I don’t think your life is complete without having fished a bamboo rod a few times or better yet owning one. Because they take a long time to make and so much manual work goes into them, they are expensive. But you have a chance to win one this month just for trying on a pair of waders. Don’t miss this opportunity – you won’t see many chances to get a free bamboo rod.

How do you preserve a bamboo fly rod?

Take the time to break the rod down and dry it every night. Keep your ferrules clean and lightly oiled. A Q-Tip works well for cleaning the inside of the female ferrules and the best thing to clean and oil them with is camilla oil. You can get it from a good woodworking supply.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

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By Louis Cahill

I’ve had several people request content for basic bamboo fly rod repairs.

I have every intention of doing this for you, but it means I have to find the time to get to the store. That seems unreasonably difficult these days. Before starting any repairs I thought it would be wise to write about the care of this bamboo pole and maybe avoid some repairs altogether.

Bamboo is not as finicky as most people think. It’s actually remarkably tough, but there are some basic rod handling and storage rules that will greatly increase their longevity. Unfortunately, too many guys end up with a nice bamboo rod before they know how to care for it and learn the hard way.

Most people start with graphite sticks and assume you’ll treat a bamboo stick the same way. It’s a fly rod, right? Yes, but materials vary widely and some very common practices that are fine with a graphite rod will do serious damage to the boo.

General care

I’ll start with the simplest and most common thing boo-nubes do with their rods. You know that little string on your rod sock? Why this thing exists I’ll never know. I’ve never had a rod so eager to hit the river that I had to tie it down, but a lot of people tie this line around the disassembled rod I guess because it’s there. Do this with your bamboo rod and the next time you take it out to fish there will be a little dog leg in the tip right where that line falls. Cut this string and throw it away.

Ironically, one of the most damaging things to a bamboo stick is water. Of course it won’t damage your rod if it gets wet. What hurts is staying wet. The absolute worst thing you can do to a bamboo rod is trap it wet in a rod tub. Any amount of water trapped in an airtight hose with your rod will cause serious damage. The best you could get is mold in the paintwork, but it’s likely to get worse. Once the moisture penetrates the finish, it begins to rot the pipe. Once this happens, the pole is complete. Many bamboo poles that seemed to have broken for no reason were cleared away wet. Leave the rod in its sock for a day or two before putting it back in the tube. I put mine on the mantelpiece. After sixteen years, my wife doesn’t even see them there anymore.

The varnish on your bamboo stick is an important barrier that protects the tube. It’s pretty resilient, but there are a few easy ways to screw it up. Never leave it in a hot car, especially a tube that is in the sun. The heat will make the finish bubble and cause it to detach from the stick. The entire rod needs to be reworked. Never use solvents on the wand. Even rubbing alcohol will damage the paintwork.

It is good practice to keep your rod clean. Not only does it look better, but it also ensures that no harmful chemicals or mold are left on the surface. Don’t think twice about it and use harsh cleaning products on your rod. Soap and warm water is best. You can use a soft vegetable brush for the cork and a toothbrush for the guides and hardware. Dry thoroughly and oil the ferrules when finished.

This really applies to any rod but I am still shocked when I see guys doing it. Never put a hook in your cork. If you’re older than six, you have no excuse for it.

ferrule care

The quickest way to ruin a rod almost beyond repair is to twist the ferrules. It’s common to twist ferrules on a graphite stick to set or loosen them, but this simple motion will rub the metal ferrule on a bamboo stick. The ferrules will begin to twist during fishing and eventually become too loose to hold together. The only solution is new ferrules and that’s a risky proposition that no rod manufacturer wants to take.

Never assemble your rod when the ferrules are wet. Moisture in the assembled ferrules will cause corrosion and the ferrules will stick. You risk breaking the bar and getting it apart, and once the corrosion wears off they won’t fit either. If you have stuck ferrules, see my post on how to disassemble them safely. here

Never leave a bamboo pole together overnight. On a multi-day trip it’s tempting to leave the rod hung up, but again the ferrules will get stuck and you’ll be in trouble. Take the time to disassemble and dry the wand each night.

Keep your ferrules clean and lightly oiled. A cotton swab works well for cleaning the inside of the female ferrules and the best thing to clean and oil them is Camilla oil. You can get it from a good woodworking shop. It is Camilla flower oil. It is completely inert and will not go rancid over time. For the ferrule at the top center of a three-piece bar, you’ll need to pinch some cotton from the Q-tip. It’s best to store your rod with ferrule plugs in the female ferrules, but if you don’t have them, tuck the rod into its sock with the female ferrules pointing down to keep debris out of them. Check them before assembling the pole to make sure they are clean. Don’t wax your ferrules. Some people will disagree with me, but the wax builds up and becomes uncomfortable. Chamomile oil is better.

If your ferrules are light-colored, meaning not blued, beaten or finished, you can never use a blunt polish to keep them looking good. Simply place a bit of masking tape over the lacquer where the bamboo meets the ferrule to keep the finish from dulling.

When assembling a rod you will often see people rubbing the male ferrule on their nose. That’s not a good idea. In the nose is not only oil, but also salt. Salt can corrode the ferrule. Some people have worse body chemistry than others. The same can be seen with guitar strings. I can play a set for a year, but I have friends who have to change every two weeks. Use Camilla Oil again.

Bamboo rods are great fishing tools and a joy to own and fish from. You don’t need to be afraid of them. Follow these simple rules and this new bamboo pole will last much longer and look brand new for years to come.

Louis Cahill

Gink & Gasoline

[email protected]

How much weight can a bamboo pole hold?

Yes, bamboo is stronger than steel in regards to the tensile strength. Steel has a tensile strength of 23,000 pounds per square inch. But bamboo surpasses steel with a noticeable lead at 28,000 pounds.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Before we started using steel to reinforce structures, bamboo remained the core component in the construction of buildings. Today you can still see the use of bamboo in the construction of houses and other structures in underdeveloped areas.

However, most people have a distorted view of bamboo. People tend to associate bamboo with weak structures. However, this is not the case at all.

CONNECTED: THIS ENERGY EFFICIENT BAMBOO HOUSE IS DESIGNED TO HAVE A MINIMAL FOOTPRINT

How bamboo outperforms steel?

Yes, bamboo is stronger than steel in terms of tensile strength. Steel has a tensile strength of 23,000 pounds per square inch.

But bamboo outperforms steel by a noticeable margin at 28,000 pounds. Did you notice the word tensile strength in the mix?

This is because there are variables to consider when considering the strength of a material. Tensile strength can be defined as the resistance an object offers to breaking or splitting under tension.

Is bamboo stronger than concrete?

Bamboo has a higher tensile strength than many alloys of steel. Bamboo has higher compressive strength than many mixtures of concrete.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Forests cover 31% of the total land area on earth.

22 million hectares of forest land are lost every year.

1.6 billion people depend on forests for their livelihoods.

Forests are home to 80% of terrestrial biodiversity.

Trees used for wood take 30 to 50 years to regenerate their full mass, while a bamboo plant can be harvested every 3 to 7 years.

Forests around the world have felt the effects of human demand for timber and paper goods. Deforestation has dealt a particularly severe blow to the largest tree on earth, the California redwood. For nearly 100 years, national and state parks in California have worked to protect 45% of the world’s remaining ancient redwoods. “Old growth” refers to those forests that are considered ancient and tend to support the greatest biodiversity due to their unique filtering of sunlight.

Along the coasts of California and Oregon, a whopping 96% of the original ancient coastal redwoods have been cut down for use in fences, furniture and structures. Many redwood lumber companies prefer to use this old wood because it is sturdier than the younger trees and can be given a longer warranty. However, trees must be felled for this, which have been around since the Middle Ages! Unfortunately, due to the relentless demand for lumber, only 4% of the original ancient redwoods remain.

Most sequoias have a lifespan of 500 to 700 years, but some can live over 2000 years! Imagine destroying something that started growing in biblical times just to build a fence! In the same amount of time, a bamboo plant that can be harvested every three years could have been pruned and regrown over 650 times.

What is the strongest fishing rod material?

At the other end of the spectrum, graphite rods tend to be the most expensive choice on the market today. They are the most sensitive and the most powerful when it comes to lifting weight. They also have the fastest action. That’s because, with graphite rods, only the rod-tip to the first-third of the rod flexes.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Choosing a Fishing Rod: Fiberglass vs. Graphite and Composites

Most rod blanks today are made from fiberglass, graphite or a composite mix containing graphite, boron or even a ceramic additive. While much has been said about the differences between these materials, they’re not difficult to understand—and all three have pros and cons.

Fiberglass rods are generally the cheapest. They’re also the least sensitive and least powerful when it comes to muscled on big fish. These rods typically flex in a parabolic curve, meaning that when you lift a weight on the end of the line, the entire rod will flex from tip to tail. This flexing is known as the action of a rod. The more a rod flexes throughout its length, the slower the action is said to be. That’s because action is really reaction – the time it takes for a bent rod to return to its straight or stiff position.

Fiberglass rods typically fall into the slow to medium action class. They are excellent for soft presentations of large baits, an excellent choice for working on rough bottoms where hangers are the norm, ideal for tangles with soft mouthed species such as weakfish that stiffer rods could snap the hook and are durable enough to handle that endure the pounding that novice anglers typically dish out.

At the other end of the spectrum, graphite rods tend to be the most expensive choice on the market today. They are the most sensitive and strongest when it comes to lifting weights. They also have the fastest action. This is because on graphite rods only the tip of the rod flexes up to the first third of the rod. With so little flex along the length of the rod, these rods are typically classified as fast or extra fast action. In other words, since most of the flex is in the tip, they go from flexed to stiff almost instantly.

The benefit of this quick action is super sensitivity – you can almost feel the tremor as a starfish crawls along the bottom a foot from your hook. This makes these rods excellent for bucktailing, diamond jigging and casting lures where you want to hit the smallest bite. The downside is that these rods are a bit more prone to breakage than fiberglass rods and too much sensitivity can result in you trying to set the hook on the slightest bump in the bottom.

Think of the difference between fiberglass rods and graphite rods as similar to the difference between a swamp maple and a swaying oak tree. The oak is stronger and recovers its stiff position faster than the swamp maple, but the maple can sway in the wind without breaking. Choosing a rod means to a large extent finding the right amount of swing to meet your needs.

Composite rods contain both fiberglass and graphite or other fibers in their design. So, as you might expect, they’re somewhere between the two extremes. They generally cost more than fiberglass rods but less than graphite, are more delicate than fiberglass but less delicate than graphite, and while not quite as strong as graphite when lifted, are less likely to break under heavy or sudden loads.

Combining the advantages of fiberglass and composites results in a rod with increased sensitivity, longer durability and great strength. This makes for a nice mix of characteristics and as such composite rods are often the best choice when versatility is what you are looking for in a coastal rod.

The effect on a composite rod is determined by how far down the blank the fiberglass and composite material meet. Look closely and you can actually see where the two elements merge. That’s where your rod bends. Most composite rods fall in the medium to medium fast action range, meaning they sag from the tip down to somewhere between a third and half of the way down. If you are unsure of the action of a particular rod you can always check the label. Most manufacturers will print the action directly onto the rod shaft, some will even state what line gauge, size, weights or bait and fishing technique the rod is designed for.

Of course fishing rods are like clothes; there are different fits for different tastes. So choosing a rod has almost as much to do with personal preference as it does with practicality. There isn’t necessarily a right or wrong choice for every fishing situation. The best choice is a rod that gets the job done in a way that feels good in your hands.

The starting point when choosing a rod is to match the rod type to the technique it will be used for. Once that is done you can adjust the power of the rod to the size and strength of the fish you are fighting before considering the rod’s action.

While it is possible to choose a rod by considering all the factors, I still prefer a practical approach before making my final decision. After determining the basic style I need I take a 20 inch line and tie the size weight or lure I will be using most often to the tip of a rod I plan to buy. This allows me to check the action of the rod while also getting a first hand feel of its power. When I’m happy with the rod’s response, I next tie on the lightest and then the heaviest weight or bait I expect to use. This gives me a good indication of how the rod will react in different conditions.

If you’re not willing to shell out the cash for a custom made rod, sticking to name brand manufacturers is the way to go. Typically the better known names in rod manufacturing combine the finest materials with the latest and greatest technology to increase the strength, sensitivity and durability of their products.

For superior sensitivity, you can’t beat St. Croix graphite rods. If you’re looking for a rod that can take a beating day after day, year after year, check out Shakespeare’s Ugly Stick range. Daiwa Corporation’s composite rods are more affordable than you might think. I’ve also had good luck with Seeker, Star and Penn rods of various models.

Ultimately, the best way to choose a rod is to visit your local tackle shop or ask a fellow angler who enjoys targeting the same species as you using the same basic techniques. When it comes to making the best choice, nothing beats the voice of experience.

What are old bamboo fly rods worth?

What are the most valuable fishing rods?
Fishing Rod Sold Date Price
Vintage Payne 7.5 Bamboo Fly Rod May 2018 $2,780
Vintage Garrison 204 7’6″” 3 oz. Bamboo Fly Rod May 2018 $2,001
H. S. Pinky Gillum 10′ 2/2 Bamboo Fly Rod June 2018 $1,999
Vintage J. A. Bradford Legacy Bamboo Fly Rod May 2018 $1,999

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Did you know? Your old bike could be worth hundreds.

Show values ​​for vintage bikes

What are the most valuable fishing rods?

What Makes Fishing Rods Valuable?

Build manufacturer/reputation

Did you know? Some old magazines are worth more than $50,000.

Display old magazine values

Everett Garrison H.S. Gillum E.F. Payne Russ Peak Vince Cummings R.W. Summers Per Brandin Marc Aroner Ted Simroe Walt Carpenter Jim Reams Kovalovsky Marty Karstetter Don Schroeder Thomas and Thomas Winston Leonard Orvis F.E. Thomas Edwards Sage Heddon Paul Young Powell Lyle Dickerson Phillipson Granger Thaddeus Norris William Mitchell C.F. Murphy John Krider CE Wheeler Thomas Tout Vom Hofe Tycoon Tackle

Rod type, composition and size

Classic Builders: Often the most valued and valuable rods including those made by Gillium, Garrison, Payne, Leonard, Orvis, Winston, Thomas & Thomas, F.E. Thomas, Edwards, Heddon, Young, Powell, Dickerson, Phillipson and Granger.

: Often the most valuable and valued rods including those made by Gillium, Garrison, Payne, Leonard, Orvis, Winston, Thomas & Thomas, F.E. Thomas, Edwards, Heddon, Young, Powell, Dickerson, Phillipson and Granger. Modern Makers: Contemporary builders who have established themselves by producing quality products.

: Contemporary builders who established themselves by producing quality products. Stock Rods: Rods built in the tens of thousands between the 1920’s and 1960’s including South Bend, Shakespeare, Horrocks-Ibbottson, Montague, Pelham Rod, Herter’s, Dunton and Weber. “The only things most have in common is inferior build quality, less hardware, and a low dollar value,” says Codella. “Because most are 50 years or older and obviously out of production, they’ve also become important to rod collectors who may prefer them.”

Fishing rods not worth much? Many phones are worth over $100. Find out the value of your phone. iPhone Samsung Google OnePlus LG Motorola

How old is my fishing rod?

Search for the number online

Search online databases (see below) for the serial number

contact manufacturer; many will respond to emails and calls

Post the number and ask for help on forums (the Classic Fly Rod Forum is a good place to start)

post photos on forums; Chances are someone knows what you have and when it was made

Ask a knowledgeable dealer or appraiser; If they can’t tell its age at first glance, they know how to find it

Classic, vintage or antique?

Depending on its age, a particular rod can be considered classic, antique, vintage or contemporary – although age does not directly determine value.

“Old and collectible are two completely different terms,” ​​says Codella. “Even in the early 1900’s fishing tackle was manufactured cheaply for the mass market and some was of questionable quality – the correct term is ‘junk’. If it was junk in 1905, it’s still junk today. The years will only turn it into old junk.”

Classic: “These are rods that fell into the golden age of bamboo rod making, generally around the 1920s and 1960s,” says Codella. “The established commercial rod makers of the period were the same names most commonly sought after by today’s collectors, namely: Leonard, Winston, Powell, Orvis, Payne, Edwards, Dickerson, Young, Garrison, Gillum, FE Thomas, Granger and Heddon.”

Vintage: “Vintage is a polite way of saying old, suggesting that because an item is ‘vintage’ it somehow carries mysterious values ​​that allude to the age factor,” says Codella. “Any rod made from the 1940’s to the 1980’s is often referred to as a vintage rod.”

Antique: “A true antique rod is generally one that was made between 1850 and 1920,” says Codella. Some collectors classify antique rods as those made before 1950.

Contemporary: A rod that was made after the 1980’s. Contemporary rods can be collectible and valuable, Codella explains, especially when the manufacturer has a reputation for quality.

“Each manufacturer has a limited number of rods that they can make, so you can bet that rod has appreciated significantly at a later date and is still in demand,” he says. “That’s what really makes a collector’s rod, so polish that crystal ball.”

NOTE: “Classic” and “vintage” are often used interchangeably, and not everyone differentiates between the two terms.

Condition

mint

Near Mint

Excellent

Good

Industrial fair

collectability and demand

Did you know? Old Polaroid cameras can be worth $100 or more.

Show classic camera values

How much are your fishing rods worth?

rod maker

rod model and year

Condition (including originality and history of restoration or repair)

rod size and material

Google it

Contact dealer

Contact an appraiser

What about fishing rod value guides?

How to determine the value of your rods

1. Search online

2. Ask an expert

3. Be careful on message boards and forums

4. Be patient

Where to sell fishing rods

fishing tackle dealer

auctions

Do you have fishing rods for sale? Whether you’ve found a vintage fly rod in the attic or have a collection of modern rods, our guide to selling fishing rods will help you find out how much they’re worth and where is the best place to sell them. Our guide to selling fishing rods is packed with tips from three well-known experts: Fly fishing gear expert, responsible for the collection of the American Museum of Fly Fishing with over 20 years of exhibition curating experience. Expert fly tackle dealer and angler who has honed his skills fishing for trout in Long Island’s Spring Creeks Eastern Long Island, made famous by Daniel Webster and members of the West Side Club. Rod designer, author and publisher, founder of Len Codella’s Anglers Den fly fishing catalog and former owner of Thomas & Thomas Rod Making Company. Here you will learn: Are you ready to cash in your fishing rods? Let’s get started! In 2007, an antique Norris rod from the 1860’s was sold at Lang’s auction for $17,920. The same auction house specializing in fishing tackle sold an H.S. “Pinky” Gillum rod for $10,030 in 2013 and a Garrison Model 201 fly rod for $9,982 in 2015. These are some of the highest prices paid for fishing rods and they prove that the right rod can fetch thousands at auction can conquer. Although rods like these are rare – and sold even more rarely given the passion of their collectors – many fishing rods are worth hundreds or even thousands of dollars as evidenced by recent fishing rod prices on eBay: Of course each of these rods is highly collectible and these prices are certainly no indication of the average fishing rod value. Many used fishing rods are worth less than $50; much more, less than $20. If you think you might have a valuable fishing rod, it’s important to know what to look for in order to determine its worth. There are several factors that contribute to the value of a particular fishing rod. The better you understand them, the easier it is to determine how valuable they might be. Here’s a breakdown of what makes fishing rods valuable. The work of reputable rod makers is much sought after by collectors. “The most valuable rods to collect were Everett Garrison rods,” says Carmine Lisella, owner of the Jordan-Mills Rod Company. “He worked primarily from the 1930’s through the late 1960’s producing the finest rods for structure and integrity of any manufacturer known at the time. Harold Steel’s ‘Pinky’ Gillum rods can also be very valuable. “Pinky Gillum was a serious legend in the bamboo world and made incredibly distinctive salmon sticks,” says Lisella. “His rods, while not as technically perfect as Garrison’s, fetch high prices for their casting ability and rarity.” Payne rods are probably the most commonly collected rods and can also prove valuable. For example, a 7ft Model 98 in good condition has sold for up to $8,500, says Lisella, who adds, “Edward Payne started the company, but it was Jim who took the rods and their construction to an exhilarating level for cosmetics and performance, so it’s Jim’s rods that are truly collectible.” Len Codella, owner of Len Codella’s Sporting Collectibles agrees. “Samples of these rods are now selling for between $3,000 and $12,000 depending on the model and a variety of other factors. But the brand of fly rods that is consistently appreciated at the highest level is Payne Rod Co. These rods have been in production for about 70 years without a break. After Jim Payne died in 1968 there were later owners of the name and makers of the bamboo poles, but the main focus has always been the poles, which were actually made by the Payne men, father and son, from 1900 to 1968.” There are other respected ones Rod builders whose rods are valuable. Check if your rod has one of the following names: Rods are made for different types of fishing and are made of different materials: bamboo, fiberglass and carbon fiber (graphite). Very few fiberglass rods are collectible, says Lisella, aside from the handcrafted ones by Russ Peak and Vince Cummings, manufacturers whose rods can range in value from $700 to $2,500; and even fewer graphite sticks are collectible. To collectors, many saltwater sticks are purely decorative and have little value. That leaves bamboo fly rods as the most collectable category — specifically trout rods, followed by salmon rods, but says Codella closer to fiberglass,” he says. “The actual impact on cost value is determined by the cost of raw materials and the manufacturing methods for each material class. The cost of resin treated fiberglass fabric is much lower than the cost of resin treated graphite fiber fabric, but the manufacturing process is almost identical. The net result is that graphite can cost twice as much as fiberglass based on material cost differences.” It is important to note that manufacturers such as Sage, Scott, Winston, Hardy, Thomas and Thomas, G. Loomis and others have made graphite rods that collected for performance reasons; and some graphite sticks work better than bamboo sticks. In addition, a number of saltwater rods sold at considerable prices, including those from Tycoon Tackle, Vom Hofe and Kovalovsky. These rods can incur significant research and development costs. Nevertheless, bamboo poles today have a higher value not only because of their performance, but also because of the limited number of deceased manufacturers, market perception and labor intensity. “Oddly enough, the cost of the raw materials needed to build a bamboo pole is comparable to graphite per pole, but what makes bamboo poles more expensive is that they take much more time to build, often tens of hours more than graphite or glass.” Codella explains that there are three key areas of focus for collectors’ bamboo fly rods: When it comes to bamboo fly rods, smaller and lighter is generally better. Rods under eight feet long are the most desirable as a 7ft or 7ft 6 inch rod from a particular manufacturer often costs three times as much as an 8ft, 6 inch or 9 -Foot rod from the same manufacturer, says Codella. “The general axiom in the bamboo rod world is that the smaller the rod and the lighter the line gauge, the greater the value, all things being equal,” says Lisella. “That’s a pretty broad proposition, as rods outside of those parameters often trump that rule.” Dating a specific fishing rod can be as simple as looking up the serial number or as complicated as knowing how and when different manufacturers used different building practices . To the trained eye, everything from the style of the ferrules to the color of the bamboo can help determine the age of a fishing rod. However, without sufficient experience, it can be difficult to determine the age of your fishing rod without expert help. These online databases and other resources can help you determine the age of your fishing rod. Performance is paramount as a given rod must do its intended job well; however, advanced and developing technology is virtually irrelevant to the value of a fishing rod. In fact, Codella says most “technological advances” are just marketing hype. He says that a quality graphite rod sold for $225 in 1980 will work and perform just as well as today’s “high modulus nano geek rod” priced at $950 next year will be virtually unused and in perfect condition resell for less than $300?” he asks. “The basic technology, materials and construction methods used by bamboo pole manufacturers have remained virtually unchanged since the 19th century. Rods from the 1950s that sold for $110 back then can now be resold for thousands. Very small amounts of technological advancement, but huge percentages of true value. What type of rod would you like to invest your remaining money in?” “According to manufacturer, model and size, condition is trumps,” says Lisella, following the conditions: There are also terms such as original, reworked and repaired. Repairs and rework can reduce its value, while a valuable rod can be worth even more if it is completely original and includes the original rod sack and tube unused – true mint condition,” says Codella. “When those condition factors go down, so do market prices.” Brand new rods aren’t necessarily collectible or in high demand, and just because a rod is in excellent condition doesn’t mean it’s valuable. For a rod to have a high value, the market conditions must be right and that means it has a high collector value. “The most important characteristics are knowledge of the rod manufacturer and the condition of the rod, and having the original packaging available,” says Yoshi Akiyama, associate director of the American Museum of Fly Fishing. “Private labels are the collectibles. Some examples include H.L. Leonard, EF Payne, FE Thomas, Pinky Gillum, Paul Young, RL Winston, and Edmund Everett Garrison to name a few.” Supply and demand are also important. Payne rods, for example, are relatively easy to come by, so they can be worth less than rods from other major manufacturers that are more difficult to find. Examples of both are very rare,” says Codella. “These rods perform well and have been adored by their owners and they are rarely sold or upgraded. As a result, they became almost impossible to acquire and supply and demand took over the market.” Although some collectible fishing rods are worth thousands, most are worth far less. The best way to get an idea of ​​what your fishing rods are worth is to list everything you know about them and then research recent sales to compare prices on similar rods. Consult an expert for a more accurate estimate. Try these resources to learn more about your rod’s value: Search for your rod and filter by ‘Sales Listings’ to see how much similar rods have sold recently. Make sure you compare apples to apples to get a good guide price. “Google is magic,” says Lisella. “You can enter your rod model and create many reviews that include both dealer prices and private sale values.” Use the research section to learn more about different rods and check out the rod and reel exchange to see what others are asking for similar staffs. You can also contact the Antique Rod & Reel Library directly for advice. Dealers can tell you at a glance if your rod could be valuable. Look for dealers online or look for local dealers who have experience with fishing rods. Professional appraisers can help you assess your rod. “Find an appraiser, especially one with sport and especially fishing experience,” says Akiyama. It’s a good idea to do some preliminary research first, as professional estimates can cost hundreds of dollars (or more). “There are no exact value guidelines, especially since values ​​are so fluid in the current collectibles market,” says Lisella. Codella agrees, “Even the good ones released in the past are outdated as the market evolves over time.” changes over time, sometimes suddenly. Fad collecting is another phenomenon that affects pricing. Often an outside impact, such as the death of a popular manufacturer, can affect market prices and drive them up after the event. Conversely, demand for bamboo sticks for collecting has waned recently, and prices today are generally 30 to 40 percent lower than five years ago.” Codella. “If the device is clearly a valuable asset, then it’s time to seek professional help. For insurance reasons, a written report is recommended,” says Codella. “In most cases when there is an intention to sell the rod people are much better off financially if they trust an established dealer, especially someone who has been around longer than yesterday. The internet will take you there too.” There is a chance that unscrupulous buyers will take advantage of sellers who don’t know what they have; You give a less than competitive review and then offer to buy at that price. Be wary of free reviews followed by an offer to buy, get reviews from more than one place, and ask lots of questions. Due diligence is key to a successful transaction and achieving the greatest value. Achieving the highest price is all about patience when looking for a buyer. That doesn’t mean you can’t sell your rods quickly, but you may have to settle for less. Looking for places to sell fishing rods? Whether you have a valuable fishing rod to auction or a collection of used fishing rods that you simply want to redeem, below you will find the best place to sell your fishing rods. There are many fishing tackle retailers online and offline. You can look for local dealers or find established online dealers who will either buy or sell your fishing rods on consignment. Traders have the benefit of expertise and experience; That means they know how much your rods are worth and how to find potential buyers. Dealers will either buy your rods at a price that will allow them to resell them for a profit or charge a commission on the shipment. Dealers can pay 40 to 60 percent of fair market value (FMV) or receive 10 to 30 percent commission on shipments, depending on the dealer. Fishing tackle retailers include:

Competing bids can make auctions for the right rods lucrative. You can auction your fishing rods yourself through sites like eBay; or you sell through a professional auction service. Although auctions can help drive up the price, you’re likely paying commissions or seller fees that eat away at your bottom line. And of course there is no guarantee of sale. You can bid on your fishing rods on the following sites:

Classifieds

Online classified ads for fishing tackle

Local classifieds sites and apps

Online forums and social media

Online forums include:

Facebook groups include:

events and flea markets

You can sell your fishing rods on classifieds sites and apps. Some, like Craigslist and LetGo, have a local focus; others are specific to fishing tackle. Local classifieds offer the convenience of not having to ship your fishing rod and instant cash transactions; However, it could be difficult to find a buyer. Fishing tackle classifieds provide access to an enthusiastic audience, which increases the likelihood of a sale; although you have to ship your fishing rods. In either case, buyers may or may not be verified and sales may or may not be moderated, creating some risk. Make sure you screen all buyers carefully and receive payment (or at least a deposit) before dropping off your prized fishing rods. Keep in mind that sales aren’t usually moderated, so you need to do your homework to properly screen potential buyers. And, just like classifieds sites, make sure you get paid before you ship your rods. Fishing fairs, flea markets and other events provide opportunities to sell your fishing rods to enthusiastic buyers. Events offer real-time, face-to-face cash transactions; However, they also have a lot of competition and there may be travel expenses to attend. Some of the most popular fishing fairs are:

You can also search online for local and regional shows and flea markets.

Other places to sell fishing rods

Selling tips for fishing rods

know what you have. The more you know about your rod and what it’s worth, the easier it is to get a fair price.

. The more you know about your rod and what it’s worth, the easier it is to get a fair price. Make a detailed listing. Take photos from multiple angles, including close-ups of desirable features and even damage to ensure accuracy. Add everything you know about your rod to help traders and buyers understand its value.

. Take photos from multiple angles, including close-ups of desirable features and even damage to ensure accuracy. Add everything you know about your rod to help traders and buyers understand its value. Consult multiple sources. Do your homework to ensure you are getting a fair deal on your rod. The best way to do this is to do online research and get reviews from multiple sources.

. Do your homework to ensure you are getting a fair deal on your rod. The best way to do this is to do online research and get reviews from multiple sources. Set priorities . Do you want a quick sale and quick cash? Or are you willing to wait to get more money? The answers to these questions can help you decide which selling option is the best.

. Do you want a quick sale and quick cash? Or are you willing to wait to get more money? The answers to these questions can help you decide which selling option is the best. Protect yourself. Always verify all buyers and never ship valuable rods without first being paid (or at least having money in escrow). If meeting a shopper in person, do so in a busy, well-lit public area and bring a friend with you.

Related Help

You can also consider selling your fishing rods to pawn shops, which can be great for a quick buck but tends to pay less than other options. Garage sales are another option, especially if your rods aren’t particularly valuable. Follow these tips to get the most out of your fishing rod sales experience. Although most fishing rods are only worth a few dollars, their value can add up: five rods worth $20 each is still $100 in cash. And maybe you have a diamond in the rough that’s worth thousands. Use the tips in this guide to enjoy the best selling experience so you can sell your fishing rods at the best price.

How do I identify a vintage bamboo fly rod?

Look for rod makers’ tags. Some better vintage rods have brass or alluminum tags with the craftsman’s name and rod model clearly marked. Tags can be glued or pinned in the cork handle or even wraped on the base of the bamboo rod length.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Fly fishing is a sport that has been practiced for several hundred years. Early bamboo fly rods can be very valuable. With care, many antique fly rods are still usable as bamboo is a very strong, durable material. Collecting old rods, reels, flies and lures is a hobby with an enthusiastic following. Modern artisans still make custom bamboo fly fishing rods today. It is therefore important that a collector learns to identify rod manufacturers and distinguish vintage from modern.

Find out which companies have made vintage bamboo fly rods and what those rods look like. Join online forums and fishing clubs. Treat as many vintage bamboo poles as you can. Familiarize yourself with the rod lengths and materials used by different companies to finish a rod blank. Check out other anglers’ collections. The more you play with vintage fly rods, the better you will become at determining the manufacturer and approximate age of a vintage rod.

Check the guides on the rod. Modern bamboo fly rods have newer high tech material on the inside of the guide loops. Custom rod makers can’t easily find the vintage china used in high-end guides. Cheaper vintage metal rings are avoided due to wear and tear on the fly line. New materials used also score more resistant to cast further and more accurately. Watch cork grips for age. Look for other signs of wear that indicate use.

Look for the rod manufacturer’s tags. Some better vintage rods have brass or aluminum tags that clearly identify the craftsman’s name and rod model. Tags can be glued or pinned into the cork handle or even wrapped onto the base of the bamboo stick length. If there is no tag, look for evidence that one was there and it fell off or was removed.

How much does a bamboo fly rod cost?

Winston Bamboo rods are not cheap. New, they will cost you anything north of $3000 and are all built in the US. The line weight rating of the cane rods available from them ranges from 3 – 10wt.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

In this post, I share my personal picks for the best bamboo fly rods in 2022.

This article looks at the top five bamboo fly fishing rods on the market in 2020. We bring you some of the most drool-worthy rods, as well as cheaper options.

Our top 3 bamboo fly rods:

Overall Winner: R.L. Winston

Beat Budget: Headwaters Deluxe

Best Split Stick: Scott SC

I recently had the opportunity to spend a day fishing a bamboo rod on a small trout stream. What a fulfilling experience. After that day it dawned on me that bamboo remains a viable rod material, especially for trout.

What are the best bamboo fly rods for sale?

These are the best bamboo fly rods for sale in 2020

Where is the best place to buy bamboo fly rods?

You probably stumbled upon this post after searching Google for “Best Bamboo Fly Rods”. This tells me that you probably want to order your bamboo pole online and have it delivered to your door. Here are some of the best places to do it.

Amazon

Yes, Amazon has some great bamboo fly rods too. They also have super fast shipping on most fly fishing tackle (2 days or less) and often offer free returns on your products. So if for any reason you are not satisfied, you can send them back.

Trident fly fishing

Trident Fly Fishing is the United States’ largest online retailer of fly fishing tackle and offers an excellent selection of bamboo fly rods as well as many other tackle items. They also offer free shipping on almost all orders and free returns if you are not satisfied.

Also, unlike the sellers on Amazon, they have better support for fly fishermen from true professionals.

Orvis

Orvis have been selling fly fishing gear since 1856 and today they have a wide range of fly fishing gear online.

Your local fly shop

Bamboo fly rods are a fairly specialized item so your local fly shop may not stock one, but it’s worth checking out.

What is a bamboo fly rod?

Bamboo became a popular material for fly rods around the mid-19th century. Before that, rod builders used wood that broke easily, especially in the tip area.

A bamboo stick is made by laminating split pieces (hence split the name split stick) together.

The quality and fishability of bamboo rods varies greatly. Because the quality of the bamboo material and the skill of the craftsman play such a big role. This is why I think many anglers have a distorted idea of ​​a bamboo fly rod.

An inexpensive, mass-produced bamboo fly rod feels like a wet noodle in the hand. However, a well-made cane rod feels much livelier and fishier.

Bamboo Fly Rod Manufacturer

In this section we take a look at some of the best bamboo fly fishing rod builders today. Yes, compared to carbon and fiberglass rods, split rods are not produced in large numbers. However, this magical craft is still alive and well.

Orvis Bamboo Fly Rods

Charles F. Orvis founded The Orvis Company in 1856 in Manchester, Vermont. The main material for poles at that time was bamboo. With such a long history of pole harvesting, Orvis has played a significant role in refining the craft of bamboo pole harvesting.

Today, more than 150 years later, Orvis still builds some of the best bamboo fishing rods on the market. These rods are specialty freshwater quivers in the 4-6wt range and are all handcrafted in the USA.

Thomas & Thomas Bamboo Fly Rods

The rod company Thomas & Thomas was founded in 1969 by Tom Dorsey and Tom Maxwell. They have specialized in building high-quality and high-performance bamboo fly rods.

It wasn’t until 1977 that they began building the first T&T graphite rods.

To this day, Thomas & Thomas are among the world’s leading bamboo fly rods. They offer incredible quality, ridiculously good looks and they fish well. T&T offers a wide range of bamboo rods ranging from 6’6″ 3wt to 8’5″ 12wt.

R.L. Winston Bamboo Fly Rods

R.L. Winston was founded in San Francisco in 1929 by Rober Winther and Lew Stoner. One of the significant technical advances they made was the patenting of their hollow fluted design.

These internally rounded flutes produced rods that were both light and powerful, leading to various long-casting records.

Winston Bamboo rods don’t come cheap. They cost anything over $3000 new and are all built in the USA. The line weight of the cane rods available from them ranges from 3 – 10wt.

Headwaters Bamboo Fly Rods

Headwaters Bamboo Fly Rods have been around since 2002. Their goal is to bring quality split cane rods to the general angler. They are significantly cheaper than the premium American made bamboo poles.

Headwater Bamboo rods offer four different rod families giving you access to 14 different tapers. Unfortunately the rods at this price are all imported from China.

Scott Bamboo Fly Rods

Most of you are familiar with the Scott Rod Company. They’ve been around since 1974 and build some of the finest carbon fiber rods around. Scott don’t build their own bamboo poles. Instead they work with some of the world’s best split cane rod manufacturers.

For their latest split cane rods, Scott has teamed up with master bamboo craftsman Naoki Hashimoto from Japan. These rods don’t come cheap but are some of the best in the business.

Common lengths and weights of bamboo fly rods

Now that we know a bit more about the history and material behind bamboo fly rods, let’s take a look at the rods themselves. Bamboo has been used in rod construction for well over 150 years.

The combination of line weight values ​​and lengths you will find is almost endless. This section focuses on modern bamboo rods in rod weights suitable for most trout fishing scenarios.

3 weight 6’6″

A 6’6″ bamboo rod with 3 weights is the perfect choice for the dry fly purist. This rod is ideal for small streams with overgrown banks and overhanging trees. Due to the short length, the blank can be effortlessly loaded at distances under 30 feet.

In some cases I like to emphasize a bamboo pole with three weights. I do this because the rod already has a slower action and a lighter line allows for more delicate presentations.

The ideal line for this rod is a double taper floating line with 2 or 3 weights.

4 weight 7′

A 7 foot 4 weight bamboo rod is ideal for most small to medium sized rivers. It can present a dry fly fine but packs more “oomph” than the triple weights, allowing you to fish small streamers and nymphs.

It is still relatively short, making it perfect for fishing on narrow banks. Due to the short length, narrow loops can also be easily formed.

5 weight 7’6″

As with carbon and fiberglass rods, a five weight bamboo fly rod is the most versatile. Five weight bamboo poles are available in different lengths; However, the 7’6″ is the most popular.

It’s long enough for longer casts but can easily be used on a boat or in tight situations. The short length also allows the angler to load the cast much faster.

This bamboo rod is perfect for most trout fishing scenarios. It can cast large dry flies, streamers and nymphs with ease, but the soft tip protects thin hooklengths well.

6 weight 8′

Reach a weight of 6 and now you have a bamboo fly rod better suited for streamer fishing. At 8′ the rod can deliver longer casts and has the backbone to deal with big flies and bigger fish. This rod is ideal for swinging big buggers for big brown trout.

Other characteristics of the best bamboo rods

So what other characteristics do you need to look for when choosing the best bamboo fly rod? Below are some critical considerations:

material

Although all cane poles are made from bamboo, not all bamboo is the same. Bamboo is a natural material and with that comes variations in density, flexibility and durability.

The quality of bamboo in the rod plays a prominent role in the rod’s ultimate performance.

The first popular bamboo to be used came from India. This bamboo, referred to as Calcutta bamboo, was comparatively weak as it had a thin outer layer which gives strength to the rod.

The most popular material, still used today, is called Tonkin bamboo. It is native to China and has a much thicker outer layer resulting in a strong and durable rod.

pieces

Most bamboo fly rods under 9ft are two piece rods. Some manufacturers who make longer rods offer 3-piece variants. This attribute affects the portability of the rod the most.

This is one of the top reasons to choose a carbon rod over a bamboo rod in my opinion.

action

Most bamboo fly rods have a medium to slow action which is why many anglers do not prefer them. However, throwing a cheap bamboo fly rod and forming an opinion based on it is like driving a Series 2 Land Rover and saying cars suck.

High quality bamboo fly rods are completely different from cheap versions and have a much more progressive and enjoyable action.

balance

Bamboo material is heavy compared to carbon fiber resulting in a heavy rod. For the weight weeny, this could be a significant negative; However, in my opinion, the weight adds stability and control. Ultimately, this leads to a more accurate cast.

Remember that you will need a heavier reel and line combination to balance the rod well.

Costs

Bamboo fly rods vary significantly in cost. Many of the cheaper options on the market are made in the East. These rods offer a great way to get into bamboo fly rod fishing. However, they don’t have the performance and finish that the premium rods have.

Why Choose Bamboo Fly Rods?

So when bamboo fly rods are made in such small numbers, are generally more expensive, and carbon outperforms them on most levels, why choose one?

In this section, I share with you my thoughts on why bamboo poles still exist.

Au naturel

Bamboo fly rods are made from natural and sustainable materials. Yes I know they are glued together and the pole has accessories made from other unnatural materials.

But throwing a bamboo rod feels like being one step closer to nature.

craftsmanship

If you are an angler who appreciates the finer things in life, bamboo fly rods are for you. These rods are made on a small scale by dedicated artisans.

Some bamboo fly rods can take weeks for a single rod maker to produce, hence the price.

A part of your legacy

You don’t buy a bamboo fly rod only to replace it with a newer model two years later. No, split cane rods are meant to last an angler longer than their lifetime.

I know quite a few anglers who still fish with the bamboo fly rod that their fathers passed down to them.

Bamboo poles allow you to slow down

Bamboo fly rods are not intended as high performance competition tools. No, they are aimed at the angler who likes to take his time on the water and think about every cast.

Bamboo rods are a good fit for anglers who enjoy their surroundings and have a deep love for our sport.

The best bamboo fly rods

In this section we take a look at some of the best bamboo fly rods available on the market today. These rods are all available in weight classes 3 – 6 and are ideal for trout fishing.

Orvis Penn’s Creek Full Flex Bamboo Fly Rod Orvis Penn’s Creek Full Flex Bamboo Fly Rod

Action: Medium Fast

Length: 7′

Available line thickness: 4

Parts: 2 parts

Orvis has 3 bamboo fly, rod models. The Penn’s Creek Full Flex rod is the lightest in the range and has been specifically designed for small brown trout anglers.

The rod has a surprisingly fast action that allows the angler to form tight loops and generate high line speeds.

If you are fishing in high winds or with heavy streamers the rod will work just as well with a 5 weight line.

Penn’s Creek is hand built in Manchester, VT. For an additional $45 you can personalize the rod, making this near-perfect bamboo rod even more special.

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Thomas & Thomas Classic Series

Action: Medium

Lengths: 6’6″ to 8’6″ depending on line weight

Available line size: 3 – 6

Parts: 2 parts

Thomas & Thomas make some great bamboo fly rods. These rods come at an incredibly high price. The Classic series is the most affordable version, but it still costs $2995.

The 3 and 4 weight versions feature a nickel silver end cap and a black slip ring to secure the reel.

They have a walnut roll seat insert and a fine cigar handle. The 5 and 6 weight models feature a hand polished uplocking reel seat with a walnut insert and western style grip.

All rods come with an aluminum rod tube with beautifully detailed brass fittings. The Classic Series is handcrafted in the USA.

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Zhu fly rod made of bamboo

Action: Medium

Lengths: 7’6″

Available line thickness: 5

Parts: 2 parts

Zhu Bamboo Fly Rod makes some of the best budget friendly bamboo fly rods around. For just $199, you get a two-piece bamboo pole with a spare tip, fabric pole sock, and PVC tube.

If you’ve always wanted a bamboo fly rod but can’t afford the premium options, this is your best option.

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Headwaters Deluxe Series Bamboo Fly Rod

Action: Medium

Lengths: 6’6″ to 8′ depending on line weight

Available line widths: 3 to 6

Piece: 2 or 3 pieces

Headwaters aims to make bamboo fly rods more affordable and put these fantastic rods in the hand of the everyday fly fisherman. There are 6 models in their Delux range that are perfect for all trout fishing scenarios.

The Headwaters Deluxe Series Bamboo Fly Rod comes with a rod sock and is supplied in a Cordura covered rod tube. Headwaters also offers a 30-day money-back guarantee. If you are unsatisfied with the performance of the rod, you can return it, no questions asked.

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R.L. Winston Bamboo Rod R.L. Winston Bamboo Rod

Action: Slow

Lengths: 6′ to 9′ depending on line weight

Available line weights: 3 to 10

Piece: 2 pieces

Winston is one of the best dry fly rods on the market in my opinion. The RL Winston Bamboo Rod is no exception. Yes, they are expensive, but they are very special indeed.

All of their bamboo poles are available in either 2 or 3 sections, the latter allowing for more portability. It features an agate scraper guide and titanium-coated snake guides.

The reel seat hardware is nickel silver and you can choose from lacewood, box elder or zebrawood inserts.

At the time of writing this rod was not available from Amazon, so I would recommend getting it from well-known online fly shop Trident instead. They still offer free delivery and returns.

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Scott SC (Split Cane) Scott SC (Split Cane)

Action: Medium Fast

Lengths: 7’2″ to 7’7″

Available line widths: 3 and 4

Piece: 3 pieces

The Scott SC Split Cane Fly Rods fly rods are for the discerning fly fisherman who wants something out of the ordinary. They have teamed up with Naoki Hashimoto, the master bamboo fly rod maker, to create these distinctive rods.

Naoki flames the cane three times, resulting in increased recovery speed and faster action. The three-piece construction drives the action further to be surprisingly fast. The result is a bamboo fly rod that, unlike most others, feels light in the hand and is pleasantly fast.

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Gufiky Classic Bamboo Fly Rod

Action: Medium

Lengths: 7’6″

Available line weight: 3wt

Piece: 2 pieces

The Gufiky Classic Bamboo Fly Rod is another affordable option imported from the east. Quality, material and action are similar to the Zhu fly rod mentioned above.

We included this rod in our list to give you more options if you are in the market for a cheap bamboo fly rod.

As with most bamboo fly rods the Gufiky comes with a spare tip section and is supplied in a cloth rod sock. This is a great bamboo fly rod for the price and perfect for the novice angler.

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Bamboo fly rod blanks

If you’ve always wanted to build your own fly rod, then why not build a fly rod out of bamboo? The blanks available from China are relatively cheap, also compared to graphite blanks. There is a wide range of tapers.

One of the best options is the offer of Zhu blanks. They are the same blanks used in the Zhu Bamboo Rods mentioned in the Best Bamboo Fly Rods section above. The blank comes with a spare tip and is supplied in a rod holder.

Vintage Bamboo Fly Rods

Vintage bamboo poles are, loosely speaking, either collector’s items or regular “older” poles. The collectibles are usually associated with specific rod builders of a specific era or brand and carry a very high premium.

The cheaper vintage rods offer a great way to buy your first bamboo rod.

Used bamboo fly rods

The used market is an excellent opportunity to get a bargain on a bamboo fly rod. Used bamboo fly rods regularly appear on second hand sites but at reduced prices.

Yes, you may not get exactly what you want or when you want it, but you never know when you’re going to find this hidden gem.

Places to look for used bamboo fly rods are sites like eBay and Vintage Fly Tackle.

Affordable fly rods made from bamboo

Quality bamboo fly rods are incredibly beautiful and special tools. But how many of us can afford to spend over $3000 on a fishing rod?

Affordable bamboo fly rods have the same inner soul as the premium offerings, but are being fished more widely as more anglers have access to them.

Two of our most popular affordable bamboo fly rods are:

Headwaters Deluxe Series Bamboo Fly Rod

Zhu Bamboo Fly Rods

Fishing bamboo fly rods

Bamboo fly rods are designed for use in fresh water. Yes, there are companies that make split cane rods up to 12W, but we won’t discuss those. A bamboo fly rod has a medium and smooth action.

As a result, the rod bends deep into the blank during the cast. This flex slows line speed and gives the angler more feedback.

So what does this mean from a fishing perspective? In short, bamboo is one hell of a dry fly rod. You can make very delicate presentations. In addition, the soft tip protects fine tippets well.

A bamboo fly rod is an ideal dry fly rod for trout.

Why are bamboo fly rods so expensive?

I get asked this question very often. The answer ist quite easy. Unlike graphite or fiberglass rods, bamboo fly rods are built entirely by hand.

It takes several years for the craftsman to develop and refine his skill, for which you are, in a sense, paying.

Also, it takes a single craftsman up to two weeks to build a bamboo fly rod. When looking at US made bamboo fly rods, consider the cost of living and the standard hourly rate for a craftsman of this level.

Then you will understand why bamboo fly rods are so expensive.

How to build a bamboo fly rod

Building your own bamboo fly rod may seem like a challenge, but it doesn’t have to be. There is a wealth of information online on the subject. You can also buy all the individual components in various online shops.

Probably the most difficult part of building a bamboo fly rod is the blank itself. You need the right bamboo called Tonkin. Then you need the right tools for the job.

The split parts must fit together perfectly, otherwise the rod will become fragile and unusable. Fortunately, if you don’t want to build your own blank, you can order one online.

Check this post

Conclusion

I hope this article has shown you that bamboo canes are still alive and kicking. They are excellent tools for catching trout. They are ideal for anglers who like to slow down and value the fishing experience over catching big numbers.

Please leave comments or questions at the bottom of the page. We’d love to hear your thoughts on bamboo fly rods and if you think they’re still a viable option.

Until next time.

What do you do with old fishing rods?

First, you can likely repair them. Even if you can’t, you can either use them for parts, or perhaps file a claim under warranty and get it replaced. Lastly, you can put old fishing rods to good use in a variety of crafts, decorations, and practical applications.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

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At some point in your fishing life you will come to a point where you want to dispose of an old fishing rod. Maybe you bought a new one that you like better, or maybe your old one broke. You may be wondering what to do with your old or broken rod. Before you throw it in the trash, consider some of the creative ways you can breathe new life into those old rods.

Do old fishing rods go bad?

There is no need to get rid of your old fishing rods if they are still working perfectly. Although heavy use can break down rods (especially those made from fiberglass) over time, a fishing rod does not automatically deteriorate with age. If you’ve taken proper care of him throughout his life, he may just outlive you. I know I still fish with rods I used as a kid 30 years ago and I’m not the only angler who can say that.

That being said, keeping a fishing rod in pristine condition is not easy. The mere act of using them constantly exposes them to potential harm. Any door or bar cabinet could potentially snap off its top, and any hook could scratch the blank while you claw at the keeper with cold hands. If you get too excited by a big fish, it’s easy to forget your rod and awkwardly drop it while you’re working to unhook a monster pike.

Some bars, such as B. fiberglass rods have binders that hold the glass together. If you use this to the full for a long period of time, it might weaken. It’s not uncommon for fishermen to say that their old fiberglass rods just aren’t what they used to be because of this. However, this just means that the rod action is slightly different. That doesn’t mean it “went bad” – just that you might need to start using other lures or techniques.

What is the life expectancy of a fishing rod?

Many fishing rod manufacturers offer lifetime warranties on their products. Some even allow this guarantee to be “no questions asked” for a high deductible. They wouldn’t do this if fishing rods weren’t expected to stand the test of time. While anything that is misused will break, a fishing rod that is properly maintained and stored will last a lifetime. Again, I have several that I have fished with for over 30 years. There is nothing wrong with them at all and now my kids use them.

Of course, this assumes that the manufacturing process is of high quality. It’s not my place to disparage any manufacturer, nor will I, but the reason I spend so much time raving about both Ugly Stik and St Croix fishing rods is because they are exceptionally durable in my opinion, and indeed case of St. Croix, often backed by a great guarantee. This has not been my experience with every single brand I have tried.

Creative things to do with old or broken fishing rods

You don’t have to march to the trash when your fishing rod snaps. There are several creative things you can do with your old or broken rods.

Request a guarantee

Before you do anything else with a broken fishing rod, it’s a good idea to see if it’s covered under warranty. Many companies even offer second-hand owners solid warranties. I have written an article on how to safely buy used rods that illustrates this point. While it might not be worth it for cheaper rods, you should first see what the company will do for you if your prized possession breaks.

Try a repair

If you’re handy, you can see if a repair is possible. As the video I linked below shows, this is possible even if your blank snaps in the middle.

Attachment of a rod tip

Amazon sells fishing rod repair kits that you can use for on-water repairs. You would simply use a lighter to heat the glue in this kit and make sure you coat both the broken rod and the new tip with it before sliding it on.

Fixing a space that breaks in the middle

This is an interesting video showing you how to fix a broken fishing rod that snaps right in the middle. He uses a dowel rod and liberal use of epoxy and string to complete the repair.

spare Parts

If the rod is too far away for a repair, you can always disassemble it further and use it for spares. The line guides can be removed and used for other rods. Also, cork handles can be sanded down and used to fill in the handles of other rods for small touch ups.

Even if you don’t feel comfortable separating it, remember that others are. There is quite a market for broken fishing rods on eBay (especially when it comes to high end fishing rods). So before you throw away your broken fishing rods, consider listing them on e-Bay to see if you can get a bite.

decor

Old fishing rods and other used fishing gear make great decorations around a lake house or barn. If the rod is in pretty good condition, you can just cross them against each other like swords for a cool look. You can also use it to line your walls or hang your child’s name letter by letter on the cord guides while the rod is mounted near the cot.

Really, you should check out this Pinterest page for several fishing decor ideas to unleash your creativity. There are a lot of cool art projects you can do with old fishing tackle in general, let alone rods.

modeling components

I’ve dabbled in model making a bit as another hobby I can’t afford. What struck me right away is how virtually any “junk” becomes useful in this craft. I was down today stringing some Ugly Stiks when I noticed how translucent their tips are. Considering they’re pretty strong too, they would be a great way to prop up model airplanes in a diorama.

Consider this photo below. This was my son’s Black History Month project this year. He used wooden dowels to get the planes airborne. Of course, these stand out quite a bit. I bet the tip of an Ugly Stik would have done the same and would have been less noticeable. The only problem with this, of course, is that Ugly Stiks are nearly indestructible, so we’ll never get the chance!

A translucent rod tip would have been less noticeable than these wooden dowels.

I’m sure that there are many other ways to make good use of old fishing rods in scale model making. For example, I’m already wondering if a foam grip wouldn’t make a great, lightweight internal support structure…

Lawn & Garden

I have to say a medium or larger rod blank would make a great stake for your garden. In fact, the line guides would be very good places to tie off some fabric to keep your tomatoes growing strong. Depending on how tall you need them, you may need to join two broken blanks with a dowel, but you’d think this system would work just fine. Thinking about it, I hope my wife doesn’t read this. If she does, I think I’ve just bought myself a new project…

plow reflectors

Fishing rod blanks are lightweight, flexible and (if you at least remove the eye guides) unlikely to damage anything going into them. This would make them a pretty good reflector in the winter months to help you avoid the lawn while blowing snow. Simply wrap this rod in reflective tape, sharpen the ends with a knife, and stick into the ground like any other reflector.

line stringer

I once lost the top half of a two piece fishing rod but instead of throwing it away I made a great use of it as a line curler. I find it much easier to get new fishing line on a reel when it’s on this shortened rod than on a longer one. It is more convenient and can be done in a small space. I would save a broken fishing rod specifically for this purpose.

4 wheel spider web catcher

I was mauled by a brown recluse spider last year, so any chance of not encountering one of these creepy crawlies is music to my ears. You can recycle old fishing rods by attaching them to the front of your four wheeler and using them as spider web catchers. Just place 2-3 old fishing rods vertically in front of your ATV to catch cobwebs before eating a bite of arachnid.

Spider bites suck!!! If only I had a broken fishing rod to save me…

There’s still a lot of life in those old fishing rods!

As you can see, there is no need to throw away old or broken fishing rods. First, you can probably fix them. Even if you can’t, you can either use them on parts or make a warranty claim and have them replaced. Finally, you can use old fishing rods for a variety of crafts, decorations, and practical uses. I hope this article has helped you think of a few ways to breathe more life into your old and broken fishing rods. If you have any other tips or ideas, please leave a comment and share them with our readers!

Many Thanks,

John Paxton

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DIY Bamboo Rod Binder

DIY Bamboo Rod Binder
DIY Bamboo Rod Binder


See some more details on the topic bamboo rod binder plans here:

BambooRodmaking Tips – Binders – Split Cane Fly Rods

Tom’s binder is designed to allow the rod to turn easily and be bound from left-to-right and then back again. It is simply two pulleys mounted so that they have …

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Source: www.bamboorodmaking.com

Date Published: 6/5/2022

View: 6983

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Your source for fair priced, high quality rod building supplies. Snake Brand gues, cork, thread, blanks, rod finish, tools, etc…

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Source: www.rodbuildingforum.com

Date Published: 8/21/2021

View: 4245

Making a simple Binder – The Classic Fly Rod Forum

The binder is shown in the 1951 The Wise Fishermen’s Bible. Herter’s Rod Building Manual from 1949 and Claude Kreer’s The Bamboo Rod and …

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Source: classicflyrodforum.com

Date Published: 6/13/2022

View: 7990

How to Make a Bamboo Fly Fishing Rod | Plans | Woodworking

Feb 5, 2020 – How to make a bamboo fly fishing rod. Including tapering gue chart and plans to build a Garrison Binder. Making your own fly fishing rod is …

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Source: www.pinterest.com

Date Published: 12/22/2021

View: 6674

How to Make a Bamboo Fly Fishing Rod – Woodworker’s Journal

Including tapering gue chart and plans to build a Garrison Binder. … A bamboo fly rod is made of six strips of bamboo glued together to …

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Source: www.woodworkersjournal.com

Date Published: 6/17/2021

View: 9418

BambooRodmaking Tips

< Home < Devices < Folder Here are some pictures and/or drawings of folders from different manufacturers. If the contributor's name is underlined, you can go to the contributor's website. Martin Darrell Tim Stoltz' interpretation of the Smithwick Binder (More information on the Smithwick Binder) To use the binder simply insert the blank, tie on the line and start cranking, pulling the blank through, tying off and repeating but turning the wheel in the opposite direction. Föllweiler, Jacques Kearney, Ian-Smithwick Binder Kearney, Ian-Milward Binder Knot, Ted Binder A few things that the photos don't clearly show: 1. The pulley's 1 1/2" screw shaft is free to move up and down in a slot in the vertical wood frame. 2. A 1/4" rod is drilled into the 1/2" bolt shank and protrudes from the floor where weights are suspended. 3. I use "salt water" size sinkers for the weight. I have an assortment of 4, 6 & 8 oz. countersink. Smithwick, Tom Binder Smith, Brian Binder Marbert, Bob Binder Hardy, Tom Binder This is my newest folder. Four strings, uses 6lb mono. The approximate cost was about $80.00, but I could do better for less now in hindsight (obviously). One feature I love is that I used 3/4" aluminum tubing for the holes, but lined them with plastic tubing (held in place with tape) that is easy to clean or replace after a few poles. Sticks come out of this thing very straight and it's one through and done. Kearney, Ian - Marty Mass Binder This folder is so simple it's actually not easy to describe and the photos don't show much. However, I hope you can understand the following. Email me if you have any questions. This binder was explained to me by Dutch rod maker Marty Mass and is a design explained to him by an old local rod maker. You will need a piece of tubing the length of the last pole section. I used a relatively thin plastic tube that is used for the power conduction. The attached photo is for a 4' rod section and the tube is 4' long. It is necessary to cut a thin slit down the length of the tube, so unless you have the ability to make such a cut in a metal tube, a thin-walled plastic is the best type of tube. I used a stiff back saw to cut the slot and it was pretty easy to do. The slot needs to be about 0.065 inch. I then cleaned the slot with some sandpaper to make sure there weren't any sharp edges that could cut the thread. It is then necessary to mount the tube on a board to keep it stable and ensure it is straight. I used the edge of a board about 6" wide so it was possible to clamp the truss on the bench if needed and also attached another shorter tube, say 3ft 9" for 7ft 6" poles, if needed to mount on the opposite edge. The easiest way to mount the tube is to place a few blobs of fast setting epoxy along the edge of the board and then hold the tube in place until the epoxy is hard enough to hold it. You then need a device to hold the thread. If you have a thread tension jig from Russ at Golden Witch they're ideal, but it's easy to make one with an L-shaped bracket, a screw, a cotton spool for the thread, and some springs to apply tension. The one I use is shown in the photos and is mounted on a longer piece of wood to allow for the stretch of holding the drill bit in one hand and the taut thread in the other hand. You will also need a power drill with reverse direction capacity and variable speed. You then place a small piece of plastic wrap over the end of the rod section to protect the rod chuck from glue, slide the rod piece into the tube, protruding about 2 inches, and tighten the chuck to that protruding section (protected by the plastic wrap) . Tie the string to the rod portion in front of the drill chuck and set the drill to low speed. Then insert the thread into the slot and turn on the drill. Rotate the rod while guiding the thread along the slot until you reach the back end where the thread will be tied off. Repeat the process with the drilling direction reversed and the section is bound. The rod section is pulled against the inside of the tube and doesn't bend, but does get some twist, but reversing the direction of drilling for the second binding usually removes this. Marty's advice was to then set the drill to high speed and run the drill for 30 seconds in one direction and then 30 seconds in the other direction while the section is still in the pipe. With this binder I get straight sections with little twist. Ian Kearney Schneider, Don Binder The parts I changed and added to the Garrison & Bellinger designs are the cradles, the weight needed, and most importantly, the angle at which the binder thread approaches the drive belt spiral. Please note that the strap only goes over the right cradle. I don't know if you can see it in the pictures or not, but the thread approach angle is parallel to the belt spiral. This really made a difference in smooth performance. I have never needed or used more than 13 ounce belt weight and I think that's heavy. With every weight I use, I can dial in enough thread tension to snap the heaviest thread, 3 - 13 oz. The Garrison required weight to keep the continuous belt from slipping, causing twisting of the bound sections, this design did not. So less weight is better. All of the weight needed with this design is to avoid sagging. Wendt, Markus Binder I built this folder over a few weeks. The truss body is made from 1/4" soft sheet aluminum. The brass rollers were turned to one inch diameter from solid brass bar stock and then center drilled for the axle. I mainly used nylon spacers for the wide grooved rollers because I made an error measuring the center of the pulley groove. The nylon spacers were picked up from the local Home Depot in the nuts and bolts department. I used a 3" pulley for the drive pulley and made the twist grip out of some 1/8" scrap aluminum and 1" hardwood dowels .There is a 1/2" nylon spacer in the pulley hole and I used shims to get the correct clearance to the truss body. The brackets are 1/8" aluminum with the brackets themselves on Recommended by someone oversized are on the list The binding thread "Director" is also 1/8" Al aluminum manufactured. The thread tensioners consist of 1/4 - 20 screws, washers, compression springs and a nylon-laid lock nut. The "eye" binding thread is music wire inserted into a 1/4 - 20 screw that had a hole drilled at the top, then superglued in place. The spool pin is a 1/4 - 20 x 7" screw. Freaner, Claude Binder Drawing of drive belt cleaner I remember one of the complaints made on the list about binders being that the glue being squeezed out of the rod gets onto the cord that runs through the pulleys to spin the rod and then a mess and is a pain to clean. Take a synthetic sponge, like the 4" by 8" by 2" thick ones used to wash cars. Cut out a piece of it about 2" by 1" by 1". On one end, cut a slit about 1/2 inch deep and the same distance from one of the 1" x 2" sides as the tie cord is from the panel. Using a bulldog clamp screwed to the board, mount the sponge so the moving tie cord goes through the slot. Dampen the sponge with vinegar or water, depending on the glue you're using, and it should wipe most of the glue off the tie cord as you twist it. The sponge is easy to remove from the bulldog clip for cleaning when done. Van Burgel, David Binder Preusch, Tim Binder Andrews, Jerry Binder The picture with the visible wheels is a side view. The picture with the board and the groove in the middle is a top view. The spool on the left is the drive cable that feeds up through a larger hole in the end of the knurled board on the left end, facing you. The smaller spool of red thread is the tie cord itself, which is fed up through a small hole at the end of the groove, also on the left side, facing you. Small grommets keep the drive cable a little separate giving you travel as the speed of movement is determined by the space you have when the drive cable is double wrapped around the bar. The drive cable is reversed like a garrison style to wrap the other way. Both coils have tensioners (springs with locknuts) to set your tension, which doesn't require much tension at all with this setup. Tom Smithwick's new binder Ron Grantham's 4-string folder Folder by David Ray Denny Dennis' folder Smithwick Binder by Jeff Schaeffer Terry Kirkpatrick's folder Chad Wigham's folder Don Schneider's new folder Smithwick Binder by Art Port Port modification of the Smithwick Binder #2 First let me stress that this is a Smithwick binder. I just made changes that changed it slightly and made it easier for me to use. This is NOT a port folder! Tom's binder is designed so that the rod rotates easily and ties from left to right and then back again. It's simply two pulleys mounted with friction bars running against them as levers, which you can hang weights on to provide tension in the drive belt. It has a thread tensioner at the top, just like the garrison binder. His is smaller than my giant, but mine can be disassembled for travel if needed. (The "wings" descend, shrinking from approximately 8ft by 3ft to 4ft by 18in when the wings are on end next to the main chassis.) I did a few things differently after originally shamelessly copying Tom's. I had one hell of a time thinking about turning one wheel one way and the other the other way round, so I placed them (almost) directly on top of each other (pic 1). This way they both rotate clockwise when binding. The reason they are offset so little is that the belt goes up and down at roughly the same angles. I also added bronze sleeve bearings that I picked up at Home Depot. They are 5/8" ID I think to match the hex head bolts I used for the axles on the pulleys. I'm pretty sure the pulley holes are 5/8" but you can certainly use others. than that for the wheels. I pressed the sleeves into a 5/4" pine chassis (probably with the help of Epon) and then fitted washers (front and rear) and locknuts to the back of the "axles" spaced enough for the wheels to align spin freely limp. I also added the sliding support bar which you may miss unless I tell you to look for it. Tom's has a fairly small permanent rectangle cut out to tie the thread to the poles. I couldn't get this to work and originally tried a plastic (maybe fiberglass) U-shaped thing used to hold cables to walls (see image on the left). I mounted it so that its bottom was level with the grooves in the infeed and outfeed troughs, but it was only supported at the rear and tended to flex downward as the tension in the belt increased. This sagging scared me to death at the tips of the tips! I later found that his little pole looked like it would work better, so I gave that a try, but in a way that didn't require me to tie my knots with surgical forceps. So the slider (see pictures below). It slides away to allow the thread to be knotted and back to support the rod that protrudes from the main chassis. The infeed and outfeed troughs have grooves (about 1/2 inch radius) to hold the sections. The scale isn't really apparent so I mention my feed rods are almost 4' each so the rod supports with a vengeance for the entire wrap. My only issue is that the sticky stick wants to run up and out of the troughs when I rotate it. (That's possibly the only source of twist possible with this design.) I resorted to drilling small holes 1/2 inch deep along the edges of the troughs (perhaps every 8 inches or so) and set 2 1 /2 inch 8p end nails in to provide a fence to catch the spinning rod as it passes . You'll notice that I put handles on the wheels, but I find it's more controllable if you just use the axles and your fingers to do the deed. I think if you look closely at the mechanism it will be apparent that, except for the inlet/outlet angles (to match), almost none of the dimensions are critical and you can build it to your own scale. In action place the rod to the left (I like to start with the tip of the section first so that as the tension builds up the mass of the rod also twists), place the weight on the left side (following the friction rod), wrap the strap and tie the thread around the section a la garrison and turn the right wheel clockwise; When the section is complete, cut and tie off the thread (I turn the section over so it goes through tip first again), wrap the belt and thread around the section so that the next pass (from the right left) causes a cross-intersection, place the weight on the right friction bar and spin the left wheel, still moving clockwise. George Barnes' Smithwick folder Binder Pulleys by Tony Spezio Jim Maselli's folder The inspiration for this truss design came from the "Winston Waters" video referenced in a recent thread about Rodmakers. There was a scene in the video that showed a lead wrapping device powered by what appeared to be a bicycle crank. As a cyclist, I have a lot of bike parts lying around and thought why not build a binder along the same lines. What I've come up with includes several earlier designs, most notably Garrison's and Smithwick's designs. The truss has the typical bench attachment features of the garrison truss (L-shaped) but the rod is passed through and fastened as in the Smithwick style. As with the first generation Smithwick binder, two passes are made through the binder. On the first pass, thread the strips through the top of the copper tubing, attach the thread, crank clockwise and pull the section forward. Second pass, repeat but crank counterclockwise. Don Schneider's folder I use some 1" PVC inputs and outputs to support sections. The feed tube helps keep the strips from flapping around. The turning plane wraps the masonry cord onto the pulleys. Ed Miller's Smithwick style folder Mark Shamburg's 4-string binder Smithwick Binder by Darrol Groth Download Darrol's plans here Don Ginter's Binder With that, the whole thing is ready to go. The connection from the drill to the old drill stub shaft where the anchor was is a length of 3/8 bar with a piece of Tygon tubing slipped over it. This is a closeup of the working parts. The thread tensioners come from old sewing machines, which seem to be a dime a dozen in repair shops. Lots of other really nice parts are also available in sewing machines for those who love to build stuff. This is the underside of the thing, showing the front end of the old 3/8 bit and the drive pulley that sits on the exit end of the bit where the chuck used to be. Sure someone might get excited about making one of these, but I just wanted to get it working and run some bamboo through it. The most important thing for me is that a glued section goes through with no problems because the truss I built before this one failed halfway through and then the glue started to set up before I straightened it out. Not good. Matt Fuller's Binder

J.D. Wagner Bamboo Rod Gluing Binder

The JD Wagner cane rod building binder

Finally an affordable, versatile and high-quality binder! Instead of simply copying existing folder plans, we decided to start from scratch and completely redesign the tool, making improvements over time. Thus, this is the first binder that can work in three different binding modes:

Like a traditional Garrison style folder. (Good)

As a DeGere-style endless ribbon binder. (Better)

As a motorized truss of our own design. (Preferably!)

As with all of our tools, we carefully considered the design based on experience. The redesign was based on years of work with a modified Garrison-style folder, and there was plenty of room for improvement! We also strived for simplicity! I’ve seen all sorts of fancy folders, some of which cost a lot of money, but I firmly believe that keeping everything simple and functional is the best way to work.

We redesigned the support arms with a deeper radius to allow larger sections, including quads, to be bound. The arms of each support were moved further out from the body of the machine, allowing people with “normal” hands to easily loop the tie string around the section and knot it! This is especially welcomed by people new to the craft… you have enough headaches trying to figure out how the binding tape goes around the section… meanwhile the glue is tacking and curing and the last thing you need is this , fumbling around in tight spaces to get the straps working!

Unnecessary extra rolls have been eliminated…they add nothing to the functionality of a binder other than adding to the cost and having more surface area to absorb glue, the tie will catch or tangle, or bind due to friction or excess glue. Everything has been simplified, keeping machining costs low but quality and functionality high.

The body of the truss is one piece, 1/4″ aluminum, so you don’t have to worry about corrosion. In fact, all of the components used in its construction resist corrosion. It’s very strong and can be easily removed over it In addition, the device was designed to fit in a bucket of water for soaking after bonding.

Years ago I modified my binder to work as an endless strap and I’ve never gone back to the old garrison style of pulleys with chunky weights etc! What a pain, and only more parts to clean and craft! The endless tape design has other advantages: you never have to worry about a binding tape tearing in the middle of gluing, nor do you have to carry an extra tape in such a case. I found that often as the knot or splice went around the section, it caught the tie cord, resulting in an instant “kink” in the pole section. With the endless belt, you no longer have to worry about kinks from a knot, a splice breaking, or cleaning up the belt… you just throw it away when you’re done.

It wasn’t long after I modified my machine that I found a way to easily convert it to power! People who have seen this setup, especially students in our classes, are just amazed at how quickly it can tie sections without stopping! And it completely eliminates those stupid hanging weights! I think after trying this setup you will never tie rods any other way again…I know we didn’t!

Each folder comes with full instructions and gluing tips. If you decide to use the binder like a traditional garrison type supply the weights, but I’m confident if you try the motorized version first you’ll never make and use weights! For DeGere and motorized operation we recommend 20lb. Dacron backing or your choice of cord type. You can supply the backing yourself or we can supply it to you in 250 yard spools for $15. This amount is enough to double tie 20 average length rods plus you have the peace of mind of never having a strap break and you don’t have to take time to clean it up and you won’t have as many problems with kinking an amazingly fast method and you always have it with you to fill your reels and various tasks like tying on prong tabs while ferrulating!

Hello Jeff and Casimira! Wanted to update you.

Have used your binder on two poles so far. A five weight and a four weight. I use it with the Degere style constant feed drive belt. Will try the motorized version later.

Great binder! Easy setup, truly straight sections right out of the binder. Seems very “anti-twist” if you follow your directions. Really nice on the “Easy Dial” adjustments when tying the smaller tips.

Thanks for the great tool! IE

Jeff; I just wanted to let you know that the folder arrived yesterday

like you promised I put the check in the mail first thing on Tuesday. I can not

Believe in your service! Played with the folder all night. I wish I had one

Rod for gluing now, better busy. This winder is smooth, tricky and

foolproof. No more weights, pulleys and that nonsense. Connected to a foot pedal speed control, great hands-free operation.

Great thing, couldn’t be happier.

All the best

FF

Prices

Wagner Binder, complete with drive attachment and instructions. $255 plus shipping.

16/4 cotton ice tie cord, 4,800 yard spool $38 plus shipping or in a 500 yard spool for $6.95 plus shipping. NOTE: ONLY 500 yard spools are currently available.

20 lbs. Dacron pad, 250 yard spool $15 plus shipping.

A few additional words on the design

As previously mentioned, we set out to redesign and manufacture the best, most versatile tie ever. We’ve often been asked why didn’t we build a multi-string design? There are several reasons and here are some:

Years ago, when I watched Winston Waters’ video, I noticed that the folks at Winston used a stripped down version of a very old and simple Crompton binder design. This confused me because there are pictures of master rod builder Lew Stoner from Winston using his large elaborate multi-string binder. I found that while this large, complex machine did an admirable job, it performed no better than a traditional single-string binder.

Then there was a time when a rod builder invited me to buy a very large but well made multi-string construction. Not wanting to invest a lot of money on a tool without seeing it in action, I made arrangements to see it in person. This rod builder was just raving about it… the speed, the lack of rotation, yaddayadda. The first thing that struck me was the total lack of adhesive residue on this unit, which made me doubt it was ever actually used before forming an opinion. I then asked to see it in action with a practice section. After trying to untie all the threads to start tying, the builder asked me to have a drink with him and we’d check it out again later. I didn’t have to hang around.

It also dawned on me that any such unit would be difficult to clean and store. Being so large, it practically required its own space in our already cramped shop. There was simply no benefit in terms of performance over a traditional design and a lot of money to lose out of pocket.

Just recently, another builder who was using multi-string told me to contact him once our binder was ready. For him it turned out that there was no real increase in speed…after all, all those strings have to be tied on and off anyway, the spools refilled, etc. tensions on all spools are the same, he still had problems with long sweeps.

I’ve seen other multi-string binders assembled from cheap, readily available materials, and I’ve seen another design that requires you to wind the tie cord onto a spool to make it work. So it just seemed to me that the best design parameters were to keep the design simple and functional, use quality materials and make it at a very reasonable price. I believe we have mastered this challenge for both DIYers and professionals.

Garrison style binder plans – Bamboo Rodmaker Tools & Tips

Posted Dec 28, 2008 – 2:46pm

As I’ve seen this question on this board multiple times, this afternoon I made some technical (3D and 2D) drawings in Solid Edge without the continuous drive belt, but that should integrate easily once you get started building the truss start. The drawings are based on Wayne Cattanach’s explanations and those on Harry’s site. I just have a couple of questions: – Should I fit some kind of bearing for the small pulleys or would a loose fit for these pulleys suffice? Or even let the drive belt slip over those pulleys? – The sizes are metric, does anyone out there with better knowledge of Solid Edge know an easy way to convert to inches? Or who could I send the files to (academic version 19) and who could do the conversion? – What is the easiest way for me to publish them here? PDF to download? JPG? I don’t have an FTP server on my site.Karel Just finished, it looks like this:

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