Best Binoculars For Horse Racing? The 68 Correct Answer

They’re the people on the roof, eyes in the sky, the eights of a Sprint Cup pit crew, high above the paddock with all those walkie-talkies. The information they pass – “20 cars, five back”; “CLEAR!” – can save a driver from kissing the wall at 190 mph. Trust is essential for a stock car spotter, and Mike Calinoff is one of the most trusted. In his 20 years with NASCAR he has led Matt Kenseth to a championship and won at Daytona. He now looks for Ricky Stenhouse Jr. and Trevor Bayne. We asked him what he does up there on Sunday afternoons. – Jesse Will

We are like a second pair of eyes for the drivers. Safety improvements such as window nets, full-face helmets, neck restraint systems, and even the way cars are designed have all reduced driver visibility. So our main concern is security, but we have also evolved into a competitive device.

I tell my driver when to overtake and when to be overtaken. I scan in front of and behind our car, look for situations that may develop, say something before it happens. When a car leaves the pit lane with fresh tires, I tell the driver to close quickly.

We see the full panorama from above in the press box. I carry Bushnell 10×20 binoculars, which have a wider angle than the 10×50 a fan would use. A good observer watches how the entire race unfolds and can identify where their driver might be able to pick up more speed.

I carry four radios. Get warnings and other information from NASCAR; another connects me, our crew chief and the driver – that’s the channel fans tune in to – and another is a private channel for me and the crew chief to talk strategy. The fourth radio relays my voice back to me just to make sure I can get through.

The hairiest tracks like Talladega and Bristol get you excited and things happen so fast it’s hard not to speak before you press the button. You have to be sure.

Media platform design team

Fans are listening more than ever to what you say on the radio. I grew up in New York, so of course I have to watch my vocabulary. Doesn’t always work.

From the training you can guess how the race will go. Winning when you didn’t expect it feels amazing. With Matt Kenseth in the 2012 Daytona 500, we overheated, had to pit under green, and our damn radio didn’t even work most of the time. But we came back from one lap to dominate. That was the special moment in my career so far.

The job is part air traffic controller, part psychologist. Every driver wants a perfect car. But they never have, so sometimes you have to talk them down from the edge. It can get stressful, but at the end of the day, we’re not the ones in charge.

Because the cars are so close together, people are the essence of the sport. They have become a competitive advantage. You want the smartest engineer, the best crew chief, the most talented builders on your team. Spotters are also included.

Media platform design team

Camaraderie with the other spotters? There is a little I think. We’re all up there laughing at the pre-race conversation down at the track, someone jumping over their mom with a bike or whatever. But it kind of ends there.

We have the best seats in the house. Well, that really isn’t seating. And there are no bathrooms up there. But during those hot summer races, you sweat it all out anyway.

It’s still deafeningly loud up there. After 20 years I still get chills before almost every race.

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The last time I shared my love for 12x binoculars was in June 2018. If you need a refresher, you can read the article, Are 12x binoculars the ultimate goggle setup?

Since then I’ve had a lot of extra glasstime behind 12 seconds. In early fall 2017 I started using the Vortex Razor HD 12×50 binoculars for the first time. It didn’t take long for me to fall in love with my new relationship with 12s, and I quickly realized that I’d probably never go back to 10s Hunting.

A few weeks ago I was talking to Cody Nelson about my love for 12s and the idea came up to do a circular article about my thoughts on 12s.

First, let’s cover some frequently asked questions

Can you hold them in your hand effectively?

When people think of 12x binoculars, I think there’s a misconception that you can’t just glaze with your hands with them. That’s probably the first question I get asked, “Can you use the 12s handheld directly from a standing bino strap?”

That’s a 100% yes answer. I do this all the time and even frost with my 12 with one hand while standing up if I have to. The extra power isn’t a deal breaker. 12 Power binoculars are still light enough to hold in your hand, and they don’t have that much narrower field of view (FOV) which could cause you to get extra wobbly.

I never glaze a tripod, would 12s still do me any good?

This is another topic that is often raised when considering higher magnification binoculars. However, I tell people all the time, if you want one binocular to do it all and would never consider buying a 15, then by all means skip the 10×42 and go for the 12×50. As I mentioned above, 12s are a no-brainer for the handle and glass.

Plus, the 12s will shine when you finally decide to ditch a tripod.

Couldn’t you just glaze with 10s from a tripod?

10×42 binoculars can definitely work from a tripod. However, when I’ve tried it I’ve wished I had more power and I end up putting my 10s back into my bino harness and just pulling out my spotting scope. The FOV is great in 10s but I still prefer to see more detail so I love the extra power.

But what about 15x or 18x binoculars?

I can still go long distances with the 12, but when I’m in a tight tank I don’t give up a ton of FOV either. That was the main complaint I had when running 15 seconds. The 15s are great in big and open terrain, but on some mountain hunts they are way too much. I never took them out of my backpack and ended up only using my 10s. So I carried the extra weight for no reason. If you want to save some weight examples check out the first article I wrote here on 12s.

Has anything changed since I started using 12s?

Not really. The only thing I personally changed was my switch from the Razor HD 12×50 to the Razor UHD 12×50. The reason I did the upgrade was because of the glass. I can lens longer and the view is even clearer in the UHDs! A win-win situation in my book.

Feature comparison across the bino performance range

Next I’d like to do a little comparison showing why I believe that if you’re in the market and just want to buy one pair of binoculars and be done with them, I think 12×50 binoculars are the perfect choice.

To keep things apple-to-apple, let’s look at the vortex lineup.

Comparison of 10×42 to 12×50 binoculars

10×42 UHD 12×50 UHD percentage

Difference Power 10 12 18.18% Weight (oz) 32.2 36.1 11.42% FOV at 1000

Meters 346 feet 288 feet -18.30% Price $1,499.99 $1,599.99 6.45%

Comparing the 10 x 42 UHD to the 12 x 50 UHD, you get an immediate 18.18% increase in magnification, an 11.42% increase in weight, an 18.30% reduction in FOV, but only a 6% increase in cost .45%. Even with these presented values, you would still have to check whether it is worthwhile for you.

I think I’d be happy to accept the 18.18% increase for just $100 more. I can also live with an 18.30% drop in FOV at 1,000 yards. Remember that the FOV difference is only 58 feet, which is barely noticeable, and on top of that, the weight is only 3.9 ounces more.

But what about the comparison of 8×42 to 12×50 binoculars?

Again, I’d say 12s are a clear winner if you’re in the new binoculars market. But let’s look at the data first.

8×42 UHD 12×50 UHD percentage

Difference Power 8 12 40% Weight (oz) 32.2 36.1 11.42% FOV at 1,000

Meters 420 feet 288 feet -37.30% Price $1,449.99 $1,599.99 9.84%

The difference between 8×42 UHD and 12×50 UHD is an instant 40% increase in magnification. Again, there is only a weight difference of 11.42% (8s and 10s weigh the same). However, 12s have a 37.30% reduction in FOV at 1,000 yards, which is 132 feet. And a cost increase of 9.84%. So, for basically $150 more, I get 40% more magnification at a weight penalty of only 3.9 ounces. Again, for my style of mule deer hunting, 8×42 binoculars just aren’t value enough for me. While this comparison could easily favor 8’s, consider what you will be using the binoculars for on most of your hunts.

How about comparing 8x42s to 10x42s?

8×42 UHD 10×42 UHD percentage

Difference Power 8 10 22.22% Weight (oz) 32.2 32.2 0% FOV at 1,000

Meters 420 feet 346 feet -19.32% Price $1,449.99 $1,499.99 3.40%

This one is a little interesting. Since we are dealing with smaller powers, going from 8x to 10x the difference is 22.22%; The weight difference is zero. However, the FOV is 19.32% lower on the 10×42 for a price difference of $50. Here I feel it’s a toss-up. Personally I would go for 10’s in this scenario as I want a bit more power for glazing large tanks, but then again maybe you want the 8’s for more FOV and light collection? Still, it’s a curveball. Since the 10s technically win in this situation, I would immediately compare them to 12s and then still go for 12×50 binoculars.

My thoughts go forward

Overall, I am very happy that I switched to 12x binoculars in 2017. This switch has allowed me to reduce the overall weight of the optics I carry (I used to carry 10s, 15s and a spotter, never mind when hunting). now only 12s and a spotter. Also, I can glaze more effectively because I don’t waste precious time going from optic to optic. For my hunting style, running 12s has also improved my ability to pick up animals. You can find out more about this in this article. I hope that after reading this article you can make the best choice for your hunting style.

With all of that said and done, if you have any specific questions I’m more than happy to help! 12 power binoculars are the best binoculars for most of the hunts I go on. You get lightweight binoculars with tons of mule deer searching power!

And remember, you can always email Cody Nelson, goHUNT Optics Manager, at [email protected] or call (702) 847-8747 | can call when it comes to optics or tripods Ext. 2. Cody is happy to help you choose the perfect optical package and is a great resource to use.

Posted Jun 20, 2009 – 10:30pm

I plan to hold her hand in a lounge chair and also take her on a trip. I don’t think I want to use a tripod with binos – too much trouble. I find that sometimes before bed I go out on the balcony and look up at the sky, if I see stars I grab my 8×40 and sit and watch for half an hour. But I can’t see any of the Messier objects with it (I’ve seen M31 once with 8×40, but I’ve been in a different place.) If the night is really good I’ll get the telescope out. Basically, I would like to use the binoculars as a smaller, very fast companion to the telescope.

BBR video version of this article about 8×42 vs 10×42 binoculars

Image quality, detail, brightness, low light performance, field of view and price. In this article, I’ll go over the main differences you can expect between typical 8×42 and 10×42 binoculars of similar quality. Whether your interest is general use, bird watching, wildlife viewing or hunting, it will help you decide which configuration is best for your particular needs and preferences.

I recently finished an article discussing the main differences between 10×42 and 10×50 binoculars, from which I received a lot of positive feedback. However, I’ve also been asked by a lot of people to compare other configurations, so I decided to make a series about it, starting with the one I’m asked to compare the most: 8×42 vs 10×42 binoculars and which one is best for different applications and users.

Below I detail the differences in physical characteristics, as well as the all-important differences in optical performance, that you will find between 8×42 and 10×42 binoculars of similar quality.

By understanding these core distinctions, you can then understand which option is more ideal, what or how specifically you use your binoculars.

By the way, if you have any doubts, first read what the numbers on binoculars mean.

physical differences

Unlike binoculars with different sized lenses (e.g. 10×42 vs. 10×50), the difference in size and weight between an 8x42mm and a 10x42mm binocular is extremely small and really nothing to worry about.

In fact, most brands list their 8×42 and 10×42 models within the same series as identical size and weight.

Size wise they are the same as they will almost certainly use the same body. However, a 10×42 is often a fraction heavier than an 8×42 as they require slightly thicker glass to produce the higher output. But as said, the quantity really isn’t worth considering as a factor in choosing between the two.

visual differences

8x or 10x magnification

The whole purpose of using binoculars that magnify the image is to give you a better view of distant objects. So it stands to reason that most people assume that the more powerful a pair of binoculars are, the better they are.

While higher magnifications can potentially get you a more detailed image at longer distances, there are also a number of disadvantages and as such there is inevitably a balance to be found and which one is best for you and your needs depends on a number of factors:

Image detail at a distance

There is no doubt that you will be able to observe more image detail or in other words “see more” with 10×42 binoculars compared to 8×42 binoculars of the same quality.

image shake

But remember that any movement you make is multiplied by the magnification and therefore you also get more image shake with a 10×42 versus an 8×42 when you hold it, and although the image may have more detail when it is wobbles too much you won’t be able to appreciate it.

For the majority of users with relatively steady hands, 10x binoculars are fine to hold and it’s only when you go beyond 12x to 15x that it becomes a problem. However, if you have particularly unsteady/shaky hands, you might want to keep that in mind and an 8-note instrument would be a better choice.

10x vs. 8x: Image details vs. field of view

See the big picture: field of view

So if you can get more image detail or see further with 10x binoculars, you might be wondering why would you ever choose lower performing 8x binoculars instead?

Well, one of the main problems with a more “zoomed” image with higher magnification is that it limits your field of view.

At long ranges this doesn’t usually matter that much, but at shorter ranges it can often prevent you from seeing the whole picture and thus miss some important details.

So let’s take a sporting event like baseball, cricket or soccer as an example. 10x binoculars might give you a better view of the batsman or the person on the ball, but you won’t be able to observe what’s going on around them, and so in many cases a wider view is a better option than 8x binoculars the best binoculars for sports.

Likewise, a lower 8x magnification with a wider view for short to medium-range bird and wildlife spotting makes it much easier to quickly locate and then track your subject. In a forest environment where your subject is difficult to see, this can be a really important factor.

collect light

Since both 10×42 and 8×42 binoculars have 42mm lenses, and assuming they use the same quality glass and coatings, the light gathering ability between the two is the same.

Image brightness and low light performance

Although both 8x and 10x 42mm binoculars can capture the same amount of light, they have different capabilities in terms of image brightness:

Larger exit pupils of 5.25mm in the eyepiece lenses of the 8×42 Vortex Razor HD compared to the 4.2mm of the 10×42 Vortex Razor UHD

Leave the pupil size

This difference between the two can be largely explained by the relationship between the size of the pupils in your eyes and the size of the light rays exiting the ocular lenses (exit pupil) of the binoculars:

8×42 binoculars produce a 5.25mm (42/8) exit pupil

10×42 binoculars produce a 4.2mm exit pupil (42/10)

In good to average light conditions, most people’s pupils constrict to a size less than or equal to 4mm and therefore both 8×42 and 10×42 binoculars will provide your eyes with more than enough light to work with and therefore a can perceive bright picture.

Under these conditions it is therefore often not possible to see a difference in brightness between the views of 8×42 and 10×42 binoculars of the same quality.

However, when the ambient light level drops, such as when operating in a forest or just before sunrise or sunset, the pupils in your eyes dilate to allow them to take in more light.

Here the larger exit pupil created by the 8×42 configuration is a clear benefit and means they often have a brighter image than the 10×42 equivalent. Therefore, although both collect the same amount of light and the 10x power might give you more image detail, you can’t really see it.

For more information on all of this, check out my complete guide to the exit pupil.

Transmission & glass thickness

Higher magnifications require thicker lenses, which in turn means less light passes through them.

While this difference in transmission between 10×42 and 8×42 binoculars of the same quality is minimal, it only really becomes a factor in extreme low-light situations.

user friendliness

A larger exit pupil/beam of light exiting the binoculars is also easier for you to line up your eyes with and therefore the 8×42 configuration is more forgiving, making it easier to get an image with no black rings around the edges of the view achieve.

price difference

While this is not always the case and varies from brand to brand, 10×42 binoculars can be slightly more expensive than the equivalent 8×42 model from the same brand in the same range.

So it’s true that they need a fraction more glass to make the thicker eyepiece lenses for the higher magnification, but that’s not really the reason for the price difference, so what is it?

economies of scale

8×42 is the most popular configuration of binoculars and as such, manufacturers often make/order more parts for them, which in turn lowers the overall production cost of these binoculars.

Conclusions

10×42 or 8×42, which is best?

As I’ve said many times and is certainly the case when choosing between 8×42 or 10×42 binoculars, there is no one best option, it all comes down to making the right choice for your specific needs:

With their wider view, 8×42 binoculars are best suited for shorter to medium distances, especially when you need to follow small, fast or erratic moving objects like birds or other smaller mammals.

8x42s seem to have a brighter image even in low light, making them a better choice if you often work in woods, woods, or when the sun is at or just below the horizon.

10×42 binoculars work best in normal to good light conditions at medium to long distances. Therefore, 10×42 binoculars are best suited for those who will be out mainly during the day in wide areas, for example in fields, in the hills, along a lake shore or along the coast.

Further reading and related information

height and weight

When deciding which binoculars are the best choice for you, you need to consider a variety of factors. Factors like construction design and lens quality are certainly important points to consider. However, choosing the right magnification and lens size is crucial. This determines how effective the binoculars are at a given distance. Both magnification and lens size affect how effectively you can use the binoculars. I recently spent some time reviewing the Viking Badger 10×50 binoculars. These 10×50 binoculars were exceptional and introduced a wider objective lens to the lineup. However, the question arose as to which variant between the 10×42 and the 10×50 binoculars is the best. While these binoculars share a lot in common, there are certainly some differences that help separate them. This guide aims to explore both binoculars and decide which is the best option for you. Both sizes of binoculars will certainly deliver fantastic results – even if they are better suited for different activities. The first noticeable difference between the 10×42 binoculars and the 10×50 binoculars is the size and weight. Due to the enlarged lens diameter, larger is to be expected with the 10×50 binoculars in comparison. This results in these binoculars being both taller and wider than any 10×42 binocular. For example, the Viking Badger 10×42 binocular measures 14 cm in length and weighs 590 grams. For comparison, the Viking Badger 10×50 has an overall length of 17.2 cm and weighs 820 grams accommodate wider objective lens size. This ultimately allows these binoculars to increase the amount of light that can pass through the lenses. As a result, the 10×50 binoculars deliver significantly brighter and more defined images. The weight comparison is certainly the most noticeable difference here. As binoculars get larger, they naturally require more glass for the lenses. While this doesn’t look like a huge difference, it can certainly affect the accessibility of these binoculars. This applies in particular to long-term use of the binoculars. If you are looking for binoculars that are easier to carry, then the 10×42 option is your best bet.

quality of the optics

Deciding which option is best for you really comes down to personal preference. If you are planning to use these binoculars while hiking, then the 10×42 binoculars might be the right choice. This creates a fine balance between the overall weight and the quality they are able to offer. However, the 10×50 binoculars would be used during activities such as The larger lens diameter opens up more possibilities for the 10×50 binoculars. Participating in activities like stargazing is a prime example of this. This is still available with a 10×42 binocular – although you can certainly expect better results with the 10×50 option. This perfectly leads us to the next important factor to consider. As previously mentioned, the larger lens size of the 10×50 binoculars allows for brighter images. You can expect excellent performance from these binoculars even in low light conditions. However, this does not necessarily mean that they offer the highest possible quality. This largely depends on the model of binoculars and the glass used. For example, the Viking Badger 10×50 binoculars offer superior quality over the 10×42 version due to the larger lenses. These binoculars offer the same construction design and glass for the optics. Therefore, the only real difference that can be noticed is how much light is coming in. Even with this increase in light, there is no guarantee that the difference would be noticeable at all. That said, there are a few scenarios where the 10×50 binoculars really shine. If you’re using these binoculars in low light conditions, the extra light transmission would certainly come in handy. However, if you were to compare this to the Viking Kestrel ED 10×42, the results would be different. This is due to using the Viking Kestrel ED binoculars. Using this glass guarantees the highest possible results – regardless of the size. This results in these binoculars being available at a higher price compared to standard binoculars. So if you want to maximize the overall quality, then opting for ED binoculars is the way to go.

Verdict: which is better?

The quality of the optics of the 10×50 binoculars really shines when used for activities like stargazing. The combination of the high magnification with the large lenses ensures that the visible image is always clear. This makes them the optimal choice if you want to take part in remote viewing. Yes, the 10×42 binoculars can still do that to a certain extent and do a good job. However, the 10×50 binoculars are simply the much better option. The field of view () is another important point to consider when deciding on the best option. Since both models offer a 10x magnification zoom, this limits the width of the field of view. The Viking Badger 10×50 binoculars offer a FOV of. This is a fairly tight FOV, but this is offset by the 10x zoom available. In comparison, the Viking Badger 10×42 offers a significantly wider field of view. This ideally makes them better suited for bird watching as it is easier to follow the target. Finally, the last point to consider is what each option offers. The Viking Badger 10×50 binoculars offer fantastic user comfort with an eye relief of 18.2mm. For comparison, the Viking Badger 10×42 offers only 13.3mm, which is a significant difference. While both offer plenty of convenience, it’s clear that the Viking 10×50 binoculars are superior here. Both the 10×42 and 10×50 binoculars deliver fantastic results and are suitable for all occasions. Deciding which option is the right choice for you depends on what you intend to use these binoculars for. The two different binoculars offer the same design features and general performance provided they are from the same range. Although there can be color fringes, these are really not noticeable – especially in bright environments. These binoculars are perfect for bird watching and general observation. If you are looking for binoculars for general use then the 10×42 binoculars are a good choice. The 10×50 binoculars are the next step in quality and versatility. The wider lenses produce a brighter image in comparison and perform better in low light conditions. While this increases the overall size and weight of the binoculars, it certainly improves the quality. In addition, the The wide-angle lenses enable bright and clear visible images at all times – even at night. Therefore, it is clear that these binoculars are best suited for long-distance activities that require thorough focusing.

It is important to note that there is no one best option. In order to get the best possible results, you need to decide which binoculars suit your needs. Both the 10×42 and 10×50 binoculars are suitable for a variety of activities. Most people get the results they want with the 10×42 binoculars. These binoculars deliver clear images and offer an affordable approach to doing so. However, the 10×50 binoculars are perfect for long-distance observations. This is probably more suitable for advanced users due to the size and power of the binoculars. Models like the Viking Badger 10×50 binoculars are a fantastic introduction to the 10×50 range. These offer an affordable approach to getting fantastic results.

Advantages of 10×42 binoculars

Higher Magnification. The higher magnification allows you to see more detail and even see things that are far away. It’s a great feature for bird watchers, hunters, and anyone else who needs the extra detail that higher magnification provides.

. The higher magnification allows you to see more detail and even see things that are far away. It’s a great feature for bird watchers, hunters, and anyone else who needs the extra detail that higher magnification provides. Better than telescopes for stargazing. Another great advantage of 10×42 binoculars is that you can use them for stargazing. People are more comfortable using powerful binoculars when gazing at the sky than having to squint through a telescope. 10×42 binoculars are better for longer stargazing.

. Another great advantage of 10×42 binoculars is that you can use them for stargazing. People are more comfortable using powerful binoculars when gazing at the sky than having to squint through a telescope. 10×42 binoculars are better for longer stargazing. Usable in low light conditions. The 10×42 binoculars show clear, detailed images even in low light conditions. They are the perfect choice for those who like to hunt at night. They can be very helpful when you’re out hunting and you can’t afford to take a risk. When out hunting, you should be well prepared for any type of condition.

. The 10×42 binoculars show clear, detailed images even in low light conditions. They are the perfect choice for those who like to hunt at night. They can be very helpful when you’re out hunting and you can’t afford to take a risk. When out hunting, you should be well prepared for any type of condition. Increase your security. Seeing a lion or polar bear in the wild can be an exhilarating experience, but if you get too close to the animals or are spotted first, the experience can be deadly. If you have binoculars with a wide field of view, you can see wildlife up close without putting yourself in danger. 10X42 binoculars are a great option for safaris.

Types of 10×42 binoculars

Why You Should Trust Us Our ratings are based on a combination of real-world testing, expert input, “crowd wisdom” ratings from actual buyers, and our own expertise. We always strive to provide real, accurate guides to help you make the best choices. Learn more

Porro prism binoculars

Porro prism binoculars are actually the original binoculars. They were created by Ignazio Porro in the 19th century and are still used today. They send light from the objective lenses through a pair of triangular light catchers in a fast horizontal sweep. This movement amplifies and inverts the light to create a sharp, magnified image.

However, the zigzag design makes them more unwieldy than roof prism binoculars. however, it has its advantages. Porro binoculars often produce clearer, three-dimensional images than roof prisms. They also offer a larger field of view. Because they have a simpler design, they are also cheaper to manufacture.

Roof binoculars

Roof prism binoculars are more modern than porro prism binoculars. They have a straight tube, are light and more compact than porro prism binoculars. They have a simple design on the outside and complex mechanics on the inside. As light enters their objective lenses, it bounces off in tortuous paths before reaching your eyes. Because of this sequence, they actually have much higher magnification power and brighter images. But because of their complex inner workings, these binoculars are a bit more expensive than others. They are expensive to produce and manufacturers pass the cost of production on to the end user.

top brands

Nikon

Nikon is a Japanese multinational company based in Tokyo, Japan specializing in precision optics, digital imaging and imaging technology. It was founded by Koyata Iwasaki on July 25, 1917. The company is internationally known for setting new standards in product design. It has a passion for technology, innovation, quality and performance. Nikon produces products, technology and solutions that exceed customer expectations, like the Nikon Prostaff 3S 10×42 binoculars.

SkyGenius

SkyGenius was founded in 2013 in the USA. The company focuses on the design and marketing of outdoor gadgets and household necessities. Its products bring comfort and convenience to outdoor lovers. It also offers prompt customer service to increase customer satisfaction. If you’re looking for affordable 10×42 binoculars, get the SkyGenius 10×42 birding binoculars.

Vortex optics

This company was founded in 1986 by Daniel Hamilton and his wife Margie. They opened one of the country’s first Wild Birds Unlimited stores in Madison, Wisconsin. At the same time, they started a company called Eagle Optics, which sold various types of binoculars and optics products for bird watchers. Vortex Optics is a leading manufacturer of sports optics, producing a full line of carefully designed binoculars, prism scopes, rifle scopes, rangefinders, spotting scopes and other optical accessories. Get the Crossfire HD binoculars from Vortex Optics and you’ll understand why this company has stood the test of time.

Prices for 10×42 binoculars

$30-$100: Many of the binoculars here are great for bird watching, hunting, and outdoor sports. However, image quality can be an issue on the cheaper models.

Many of the binoculars here are ideal for bird watching, hunting and outdoor sports. However, image quality can be an issue on the cheaper models. $100-$400: Some of the binoculars you’ll find in this category are waterproof and anti-fog. They can be used in rainy environments or in areas with poor lighting. They also have night vision ability and range finders.

Some of the binoculars that you will find in this category are waterproof and anti-fog. They can be used in rainy environments or in areas with poor lighting. They also have night vision ability and range finders. $400 and up: Most binoculars in this category have a roof prism design. They offer ultra-high resolution optical quality and precision for unparalleled image resolution.

main features

size

Binoculars are usually divided into three groups: compact, medium and regular. Their size is usually based on the size of their objective lenses. However, it is worth noting that binoculars with similarly sized lenses may vary in size and weight due to variations in design, optics and construction.

Compact models are portable and easier to use because they are small. Medium-sized models provide brighter images and can be held for longer periods of time. Larger, full-size binoculars are too heavy to carry for long periods of time. It is important to consider the weight of the binoculars before purchasing them. If you get a heavy pair, you can’t use it for a long time because your hands will get tired.

enlargement

The magnification is the number written before the “x”, e.g. 10×42. If the binoculars show 10x, the object is magnified 10x. For example, a bird that is 1,000 meters away will appear to be 100 meters away. The best magnifications for frequent use are between 7x and 12x. If you go beyond that, you’ll have a hard time going without a tripod.

However, higher magnification is not always better. Since magnification also increases the movement of your hands, magnification levels above 10 make it difficult to see clearly. So don’t get high-powered binoculars to use on a boat or other moving platform.

field of view

Magnification power directly affects the field of view (higher magnification narrows it, lower magnification expands it). Binoculars with a narrower field of view make it difficult to locate small or moving objects (like birds) from long distances. A smaller field of view also means less light transmission, so images are a bit darker.

Other factors, such as eyepiece design, also affect the field of view. Check the specification to get the true picture of the field of view. It indicates the width of the area you can see from your location at 1,000 yards. However, it should be noted that binoculars with identical specifications can have different fields of view (e.g. a difference of 90 feet at 1,000 yards). So if you are torn between two binoculars, always check the field of view specs.

lens diameter

The objective lenses of binoculars collect light and enable high-resolution viewing of distant objects. In high quality binoculars, each objective lens has two separate glass elements called crown and flint elements.

The size of the lens is crucial as it determines the amount of light that gets into the binoculars. If you have larger diameter lenses, you will get better images in poorly lit areas. For example between 8×25 and 8×40 lenses, the latter produces brighter and better images due to its larger diameter. The lens size is usually given in mm after the x (e.g. 10×42).

leave students

The exit pupil is the bright circle in the center of each eyepiece. You can see it by holding the binoculars away from your eyes (about 30cm) with the objective lenses pointed at a bright light.

To get the size of the exit pupil, divide the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification number. For example, if you have 10×42 binoculars, divide 42 by 8 and you get an exit pupil diameter of 5.25mm. This is the size of the light well that reaches your eyes, whose pupils vary from 2mm (in bright light) to 7mm (in total darkness).

An exit pupil of 5mm or more is ideal for low light conditions such as dawn or dusk. The high number of exit pupils can make viewing easier. For daylight observation, the size of the exit pupil is not very important, as almost all binoculars have exit pupils that exceed 2mm.

Other considerations

waterproofness. Since binoculars are outdoor products, they should be waterproof to a certain extent. The words “WP” are used to indicate binoculars are waterproof. If binoculars are not waterproof, they can only stay in the water for a few minutes. Waterproof models can be submerged in water for many hours.

Since binoculars are outdoor products, they should be waterproof to a certain extent. The words “WP” are used to indicate binoculars are waterproof. If binoculars are not waterproof, they can only stay in the water for a few minutes. Waterproof models can be submerged in water for many hours. eye relief. Most binoculars come with adjustable eyepieces that allow you to choose the maximum eye relief value. You simply roll down the rubber eyecups or twist a collar to shorten the eyepieces. Most high-end binoculars are easy on the eyes and can be used for many hours if necessary. However, some low-quality ones cannot be used for more than a few minutes at a time. If you wear glasses, get binoculars with an eye relief rating of 11mm or more.

The best 10×42 binoculars reviews and recommendations 2021

Best Overall Nikon MONARCH 7 10×42 Binoculars Check Latest Price They have a wide field of view (351 feet at 1000 yards) and capture more of the landscape. They can observe many things without adjusting their position. Nikon applies dielectric prism coatings to all lenses and prism coatings to ensure the binoculars deliver accurate color reproduction and high-contrast images.

The most outstanding thing about these binoculars is their optical system. They use Nikon’s extra-low dispersion glass and special lenses. They take brightness and resolution to extreme levels, enhancing your viewing experience with close-focus capability and comfortable eye relief.

The lenses used in these binoculars ensure an even, higher light transmission. The coated lenses are very dirt-resistant and make the binoculars easy to maintain. However, they are quite expensive and their eyecups do not perfectly match the eyes. Images that are far away are not very stable either and wobble a bit.

Best Value Gosky 10×42 Roof Prism Binoculars Check Current Price The affordable Gosky roof prism binoculars are portable and ideal for a variety of activities. They offer a large field of view and are specially designed for climbing, hiking, driving, concerts, sports and bird watching. Lightweight and off-road capable, they easily withstand rough terrain. Their grippy surfaces allow you to quickly grab and lift them to your eyes. Perfectly fitting eyecups and gentle focusing make observing a pleasure.

Designed to survive in almost any environment, the Gosky Roof Prism binoculars are our top pick for the best binoculars for birdwatching. They’re not just good for bird watchers though – they’re a solid all-round option as they offer excellent image resolution. They are also tough and can withstand anything nature throws at you. Its sturdy grip and ergonomic design allow for precise focusing, ensuring crisp close-up shots and clarity at long range.

You can buy these binoculars with confidence as they come with a lifetime warranty and lifetime technical support. Your performance remains consistent whether you’re viewing subjects at dusk or at first light. The binoculars offer good contrast and color fidelity, two things that bird watchers prioritize. However, they lack an autofocus or permafocus feature and sometimes don’t focus as they should. Also, you may have trouble getting the phone attachment to work properly.

Honorable Mention Maven C1 10X42mm Binoculars Check Current Price While the 10x magnification factor of these binoculars is certainly impressive, you’ll be amazed by their fantastic design. Featuring a lightweight polymer frame, ED (Extra Low Dispersion) glass and multi-coated lenses, they deliver exceptionally bright, clear and high-contrast images with excellent color reproduction.

Thanks to the ergonomic handle and the intelligently arranged controls, handling the binoculars is easy. Their optical quality is great as they are made with high contrast optics that provide exceptionally clear images. They have waterproof, anti-fog and anti-scratch lens coatings and can be used outdoors in any weather. Maven also offers lens caps, a microfiber storage pouch, and a neoprene neck strap.

Maven sells its products directly to consumers, so you don’t have to pay a higher price due to middlemen. But the binoculars have a few disadvantages. The rubber caps on the eyepieces come off easily and their polymer exterior isn’t very durable. They also lack a diopter lock.

Honorable Mention Vortex Optics Diamondback HD Binoculars Check Current Price Vortex designed the 10×42 Diamondback binoculars to be extremely durable. They have excellent optical quality and will serve you for years. Featuring unique glass elements, they deliver exceptional resolution and minimize chromatic aberration. They also have brilliant color fidelity and light transmission. The lenses’ dielectric coating ensures bright, clear and color-accurate images. The outer lenses are protected from scratches, oil and dirt thanks to the Armortek coating.

What sets these binoculars apart from others is their field of view. You can observe your surroundings from a great distance and identify targets like a pro. We love the short and slim hinge design, thumb recesses, and rubber armor. The rubber ensures a secure, non-slip grip and offers durable external protection.

You can use these binoculars on a tripod or car window mount. They are waterproof and anti-fog and can be used in various environments. Vortex features a case, lens cover, and neck strap. However, there have been some complaints about their design. The center hinge that holds them in place comes off easily, rendering them useless outdoors. They don’t last very long either.

Honorable Mention Celestron Outland X 10×42 Binoculars Check Current Price If you love the great outdoors, you need binoculars with high magnification and excellent light-gathering capabilities. The Celestron Outland has both properties and offers increased light transmission and high-contrast images with lots of detail. Multi-coated optics ensure high-resolution and high-contrast views. The prisms are made of BaK-4 glass for improved color fidelity. These binoculars are ideal for those who want sharp, detailed views and reliable performance.

Weighing just 1.40 pounds, these binoculars won’t cause aching wrists. They provide bright and clear images and allow for comfortable viewing. Their protective rubber coating makes them very durable and protects them from all outside elements. It also offers a non-slip grip surface.

The Celestron Outland binoculars are versatile and offer great bang for your buck. You can use them on the trail, at the ballpark, or in a concert hall. Waterproof and anti-fog, they can be used anywhere outdoors. However, there have been complaints that you have to constantly adjust them to get a clear picture. This means they are not well suited for fast viewing. They are also not ideal for people who wear glasses. The Celestron Outland binoculars are versatile and offer great bang for your buck. You can use them on the trail, at the ballpark, or in a concert hall. Waterproof and anti-fog, they can be used anywhere outdoors. However, there have been complaints that you have to constantly adjust them to get a clear picture. This means they are not well suited for fast viewing. They are also not ideal for people who wear glasses.

tips

Binoculars with a 10x magnification magnify the subject by a factor of 10. Higher magnification levels are available, but anything over 12x will require the help of a tripod or image stabilization to produce a clear image.

Make sure the binoculars have enough eye relief for you to use them comfortably. If you wear glasses, retract the binocular eyecups to their minimum position and check for adequate eye relief.

The lens coating of the glasses is very important as it prevents light reflection and creates a sharper image. The multi-coated and fully multi-coated lenses are the best options for better image sharpness and contrast.

frequently asked Questions

Q. What type of prism is best to use when buying binoculars?

The two basic types of prisms used in binoculars are roof prisms and porro prisms. The roof prisms offer better light transmission, but are relatively expensive. Porro prism binoculars are a better choice for price-conscious buyers.

Q. Are binoculars with a wide field of view a better choice?

Binoculars with the widest field of view are always a better choice as they open up a larger area in your field of view. A large lens provides a larger field of view, while higher magnifications narrow it. For the same magnification, binoculars with a larger lens provide a larger field of view.

Q. How do I keep the binoculars clean after a trip?

The housing of binoculars can be cleaned with a cloth. The lenses must be handled with care as the rough edges can damage the coating. Wiping with a microfiber cloth in gentle, circular motions is a good way to clean the lenses. In some cases, you may need to use a special cleaning fluid recommended by the manufacturer.

Final Thoughts

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Monocular‌ ‌vs‌ ‌binoculars‌ ‌–‌ ‌which‌ ‌is better?

Hunters around the world continue to look for ways to spot wildlife and see objects beyond the reach of the naked eye. Devices such as night vision goggles and binoculars make it possible. Although these two are designed in a similar way, there are still a number of differences between them.

In this article, we will show which device is better suited for outdoor enthusiasts who want to get closer to nature and see images in a clear, vivid and sharp view. Fascinated? Just keep reading.

Monocular overview

A monocular is a small, handy device that can be used to view and even magnify distant objects. It allows us to see the beauty of our surroundings. This telescope is used by adventurers, hunters, and military personnel when trying to see distant objects. Unlike other inventions, the monocular was not discovered by a remarkable person or scientist, but rather by accident by the children of a Dutch optician.

Monoculars are usually smaller and less cumbersome than binoculars. It is much more convenient to use a monocular, especially if you spend your time actively moving, because you can always take it out of your pocket or cover, check everything you need, put it back and move again . Because of this convenience, many hunters prefer monoculars to anything else.

If you want to buy the best monocular, we recommend that you pay attention to factors such as a built-in compass, image stabilization, and zoom performance that will make the whole observing process a real pleasure!

If you want a little more from a monocular, look for a night vision or thermal imaging option that offers the above features in a lightweight and compact package. To improve the situation in low light, choose a multi-coated lens with anti-reflective coating, which offers excellent light-gathering ability.

Binocular overview

A dual lens device that makes it incredibly easy to observe and explore whatever you want. Almost immediately after the birth of the telescope in the 17th century, scientists came up with the idea of ​​mounting two identical telescopes side by side to make binoculars. Over the centuries, binoculars have evolved from the Galilean design, named after the developer Galileo, to the high imaging quality prismatic binoculars we use today.

Binoculars have their own pros and cons. This device is very popular among nature lovers and the military. Binoculars are just as common as monoculars, but are easier to find in every price range, size, and variety. Also, binoculars can be much more convenient as it will not tire your eyes and you will not get a headache caused by eye fatigue even if you use them all day.

Options such as independent focus ensure smooth and precise image capture. Multi-coated optics improve low-light performance. The result is true color fidelity across the field of view and improved contrast. Additionally, it’s easy to go hands-free by mounting binoculars on a tripod.

Monocular VS binoculars

So now you know the features and special features of each device. To reveal who the winner is, ask yourself: What is your reason for buying?

For hunting

If you’re talking about hunting, it’s better to choose binoculars, since a monocular may not provide sharp details while panning the area. In addition, binoculars make it much easier to observe areas in a stationary position for long periods of time due to their lightweight nature.

For bird watching

If you are absolutely fanatical about serious bird watching then you should use binoculars as you can easily glass them for long periods of time without eye strain. But if you’re unsure whether or not you’re going to catch a few butterflies, a compact and lightweight monocular could be a good choice.

night vision/tactical

Tactical environments are completely different. Monoculars are great for quick deployments, especially when you want to see something around your campsite or in front of your trail in the middle of the night.

However, for hunting and serious tactical purposes, binoculars are always the best choice due to the expanded field of view and consistent image.

The central theses

– Professionals would use binoculars rather than monoculars because binoculars can handle more professional tasks.

– Monoculars weigh less than binoculars, making them more convenient to use than binoculars.

– Normally, monoculars are better value for money than binoculars.

– Monoculars are much better for night and thermal imaging purposes.

– Binoculars are better in the long run because they don’t cause eye fatigue.

– Binoculars have a more natural feel than monoculars.

Almost every aspect of the NASCAR Cup cars is changing for the 2022 season. These next-generation racers feature all-new transmissions, rear suspension and aerodynamics. But many details of the new cars are also evolving, such as the way the drivers look behind them.

NASCAR teams can now opt for a backup camera

NASCAR Next Gen Cars Testing at Daytona | James Gilbert/Getty Images

RELATED: Here’s what drivers are saying about NASCAR’s next-gen cars

Between their roll cage and tall spoiler, “Generation 6” NASCAR cars limited drivers’ rearward visibility. The Sport’s solution was a giant, convex rear-view mirror that blocked part of the windshield.

The 2022 NASCAR Next Gen Superspeedway specification dials the rear spoiler height for Daytona and Talladega up to seven inches. This change makes rearward visibility even worse.

NASCAR offers teams a different solution: a backup camera. Unlike the backup camera in a modern vehicle, these backup cameras are on all the time.

These rear cameras use a type of “fish-eye” lens for maximum visibility. The teams mount the actual camera unit directly above the rear window.

We saw the corresponding rear-view screens installed in the center of the dashboard or even to the left of the steering wheel. NASCAR may still be looking for the perfect spot, or screen placement can be left up to the driver.

Some drivers want to keep their rearview mirrors

Bubba Wallace in the mirror of his #23 Toyota | Carmen Mandato/23XI Racing via Getty Images

RELATED: Nascar is trying to discourage drivers from cooking like ‘turkey’ in next-gen race car

The new NASCAR backup cameras have drivers divided. Some racing veterans refuse to use it at all.

After early NASCAR Next Gen car testing, the press asked Denny Hamlin what he thought of the new backup camera. The 40-year-old driver and team owner said: “I didn’t drive.”

Hamlin added, “Personally, for me, I’ve been in vehicles that had a backup camera… I didn’t like it. For me it just kind of shoots my eyes, makes me a little dizzy looking at it.

What was Hamlin’s solution to the rear vision problems? “I think they can fix some things with the spoiler, bring the carbon fiber part of the spoiler down…that will certainly help with the vision.” will.”

Will Hamlin ride the traditional convex mirror at the Daytona 500 or has he taken over the rear camera after a few more practice runs? We’ll have to watch to find out.

Some younger drivers welcome the backup camera

Chris Buescher in a NASCAR Next Gen Car | James Gilbert/Getty Images

RELATED: NASCAR Drills Holes in Next-Gen Frame After Crash Testing

Other drivers love the new setup. Chris Buescher, 28, said: “The rear camera is something that’s really snazzy… you can actually see quite a bit more than you’re used to.”

While the teams took the next-gen cars on their first run at Daytona, Hamlin may have left his backup camera off, but Buescher has his on.

Buescher said, “I used the camera a lot and the spotter up on the roof to know where cars are and to get a sense of how close they really are.” gives an advantage when the next-gen car debuts, we may see some other drivers change their minds.

You can check out our ultimate NASCAR Next Generation Car Ultimate Guide to learn more about the new spec, or watch the backup camera in action in the video below:

RELATED: Will Next-Gen NASCAR Cars Have Automatic Transmissions?

NASCAR spotters have one of the toughest and most important jobs in the sport. They are dedicated members of their respective teams, often working under undesirable conditions due to their placement at a NASCAR event. If you’re curious about what a NASCAR spotter does, read on.

A NASCAR spotter needs to provide their drivers with information about what is happening around them. You need a quick eye to effectively warn drivers of potential accidents and hazards ahead. The faster a spotter communicates, the better his driver’s chances of winning.

NASCAR spotters must have certain skills to be successful at the Cup Series level. Below we’ll talk about what it takes to become a NASCAR spotter, why drivers rely on their spotters, and why their working conditions are so much tougher than they look.

What are spotters in NASCAR?

Spotters in NASCAR are people who act as their driver’s eyes, relaying information and alerting the driver if someone is going high, low, or backward, or if there are wrecks or hazards around them. Spotters allow drivers to be more aware of their surroundings.

In normal driving, you can use your rearview mirrors and side mirrors to look behind and around you. This allows you to see surrounding cars and potential hazards. You can even listen to music without worrying about danger.

However, NASCAR drivers cannot listen to music as they must focus their full attention on the race and listen for cues from their team and spotters. They race on closed courses that are often no longer than 2.5 miles, giving little space for the numerous racers on the course who are going at hundreds of miles per hour.

With so many other racers so close together, it’s important for the drivers to know where the other cars are in relation to their position. NASCAR cars don’t have mirrors to see their surroundings. Instead, they have spotters that alert drivers to their opponent’s positions.

Comparing what NASCAR drivers go through at a track to what they have to deal with on a freeway, it’s easy to see why the drivers would have someone to tell them if other cars were lurking nearby. Drivers cannot always pay attention to what is happening around them.

Spotters are a NASCAR driver’s safety net

NASCAR spotters are paramount to a driver’s success. Without them, you would see far more accidents and unfortunate pile-ups, because without side mirrors and limited opportunities in a race to look into the backup camera, cars would either collide accidentally or slow down significantly to be more aware of their surroundings.

To keep the race interesting and drivers to run a car at maximum capacity, they let the spotter guide them during the race. Suppose a rider is enjoying a great run riding up or closer to the wall and they want to move to the top of the track. The spotter will let them know when they’re ready to spin up.

Spotters also alert a driver when a competitor is rapidly approaching from behind. Slow drivers can avoid them or, if the car can keep a competitive pace, try to block them. If you see an accident during a race, spotters will try to guide their drivers through the chaos hoping to avoid a collision. Sometimes that works, sometimes not.

There are times when drivers get too close to an accident for the spotters to be of much help. A spotter may successfully guide their driver through the start of the crash, but another car may slide into them, potentially ending that driver’s race.

You’ve probably heard that spotters communicated with drivers

Warning flags follow accidents to allow the cleaning team to clear debris from the track to get the race back on green as quickly as possible. Since nothing happens during a warning, NASCAR displays some replay angles from the previous crash. Often their replays show different lane angles before switching to in-car cameras.

If you watch video of a driver who either swerved or was unfortunate enough to get into the wreckage, you’ll hear a calm voice on the radio relaying a series of instructions to the driver. This is the NASCAR spotter trying to navigate his drivers through the wreck.

How many spotters does a NASCAR driver have?

A NASCAR driver typically only has one spotter, even on some of the longer, more complex tracks. An observer can usually suffice as they have a strong vantage point to observe from. If an additional spotter is required, the role would likely fall to an existing crew member.

NASCAR tracks come in all shapes and sizes, and there are even street courses and superspeedways. You may be wondering how it is possible for a lone observer to see from one end of the track to the other at longer tracks like Daytona International Speedway or Sonoma Raceway. Or even if they could see the whole route, if they could tell their car from the others.

Despite potential problems in locating their respective cars on track, NASCAR still only uses one spotter per driver. They provide observers with a vantage point allowing views of the entire route, although binoculars may be required. If an additional spotter is needed, the job would fall to someone who is not allowed over the wall to service the car.

How much money does a NASCAR spotter make?

A NASCAR spotter makes between $2,500 and $3,000 per race, which is roughly between $90,000 and $100,000 per year. While this salary may seem desirable, remember that spotters have one of the toughest jobs not only in the Cup Series but in sports in general.

On the surface, a spotter’s job looks like a piece of cake. They have free entry to the show and often say the higher you are on the track, the more of the race you can see. With this in mind, spotters get top seats at every NASCAR event.

Most Cup Series races last between three and five hours, except in bad weather. So spotters, like their drivers, apparently work a few hours a week while also getting paid to fly across the country to guide their drivers through a race. However, NASCAR spotters have one of the toughest jobs in motorsport.

The job description of a NASCAR spotter

Each weekend during a Cup Series season, NASCAR spotters face adverse conditions such as extreme heat. Because they are mounted so high for their vantage point, they work in direct sunlight for hours.

When the camera focuses on the spotters during a Cup Series event, you can often see them standing or at least leaning over the rail. You will stand in the same position for most of the 300-500 mile event. Spotters also almost always stand shoulder to shoulder. This means that this job is unsuitable for people with claustrophobia or fear of heights.

They rarely take breaks, even when the warning flag is flying. This is because NASCAR spotters talk to each other throughout the duration of an event. There are times when there is an opportunity to strategize with other spotters during a caution.

Suppose two riders stand either in single file or side by side while racing under caution. Spotters can negotiate a potential short-term alliance, which they then forward to their driver. Sometimes riders will briefly team up with another rider through their spotter’s recommendations. In other cases, this is not a valid option.

Spotters can work more than one day a week as they also fulfill their spotting duties during training sessions their driver may be conducting. Some also work or have previously worked with the Truck and Xfinity series.

How NASCAR spotters go about their day

Before their day begins, NASCAR spotters have their eyes on the daily prediction. They need to know exactly what they’re getting into before a practice or race so they can dress and prepare appropriately for the weather.

The weather check is not only for the spotter’s well-being, but also because the forecast tells him how well his driver’s car is doing during practice and the race. When it’s hot and clear, spotters can expect more handling difficulties. However, if the temperature drops too low, the tires will harden and you may have difficulty driving.

Spotters will also communicate with the builders and crew members to formulate an ideal strategy for the event. However, these strategies are subject to change at will depending on how track conditions change. When the wind picks up or clouds block the sun, it affects how a car handles and requires a different strategy.

Drivers communicate with their spotter more than anyone else, so it is common for crew chiefs to relay any handling recommendations to their spotters, who then relay the information to the driver. This provides a greater sense of familiarity for drivers.

What’s the hardest part of being a NASCAR spotter’s job?

The hardest part of being a NASCAR spotter is staying focused and focused throughout the duration of each event they’re working on. It is incredibly important that the spotter keeps an eye on their driver and observes everything in their immediate vicinity.

Whether training or racing, a spotter needs to block out everything but their driver and what’s going on around them. NASCAR racing can be entertaining. Spotters are prone to human error and are tempted to focus their attention on parts of the track where there is more action.

When you’re watching a NASCAR race, your eyes are probably always on the action in front of you. Much of the entertainment of the race takes place as the fastest cars battle for the lead in hopes of breaking away from the crowd. NASCAR spotters cannot focus on the fun part of the race unless their driver is involved.

A spotter must also ensure that the cars in front of his driver do not collide and that no one is lurking close behind, high up near the barrier, or low down near the apron. A spotter should take their eyes off the driver briefly to ensure that no potential hazards develop in front of them. In all other cases, their eyes are on the driver and their immediate surroundings.

NASCAR drivers have to trust their scouts

The Autobahn gives you time to look around and make informed decisions about what you’re going to do with your car. Will you accelerate onto the ramp and pass the car behind you, or will you let them go and settle in behind them? NASCAR drivers can’t take the time to make decisions like this.

Instead, their spotters reflect exactly what is happening on the track. Drivers then act automatically without double checking to ensure their scout is transmitting the correct information. If the spotter says a car is approaching from behind and making a high turn, a driver will make a high turn to block if they feel they can pass the opposing car.

Drivers must also act immediately when a wreck, even the inevitable “big one,” happens ahead of them. They must rely on their reflexes and their spotter’s voice to give themselves the best possible opportunity to navigate through the fray. This means that the spotter does not have to be questioned.

Spotters must have a quick eye and quick decision making to determine where their driver should go during an accident. The slightest communication error between the spotter and his driver could end both days prematurely.

How to become a NASCAR spotter

If all this information about NASCAR spotters sounds like a dream job, you might want to learn how to get there. You must meet specific qualification requirements and find a way to squeeze into NASCAR. Even in the Cup, Xfinity, Truck, and ARCA series, there aren’t many spotter jobs within NASCAR.

Required Skills for NASCAR Spotters

concentration

Without solid concentration skills, you can forget about becoming a NASCAR spotter. At Cup Series level, teams expect perfection and the speed of the racing event means you can’t take your eyes or attention away for even a split second.

communication

Communication is just as important as concentration. An important aspect of developing communication skills as a NASCAR spotter is using terminology and sentence structures that drivers can process in a split second. NASCAR spotters must be concise. They can’t get overly descriptive about whether they have a car that goes up or up, or down or down.

If you’ve ever heard a communication between spotters and their drivers, they might have said, “(car number) high” or “(car number) low.” It’s short, to the point, and drivers immediately understand what their spotter is talking about is mediating without thinking.

Speed ​​is also an important aspect of communication. If a NASCAR spotter sees something on the track, he must immediately report what he sees to his driver. If they don’t provide instant feedback, they put their driver at risk of an incident on the track.

persistence

This is perhaps the most underrated trait of a NASCAR spotter. If you don’t show sheer endurance, you won’t last long as a scout. Spotters, like drivers and crew members, travel across the United States every week for nine months of the year. They have to get up early for team meetings and stay up late during the week for follow-up meetings.

Then they have to contend with damp, muggy weather with no shade, and that alone presents a challenge. Just as riders maintain sound fitness and nutrition programs throughout the calendar year, so do spotters need to maintain their physical health.

The fitter they are, the more stamina they have. The more they hydrate, the easier it is to stay focused when they’re high up and in direct sunlight. Therefore, if you want to become a NASCAR spotter, you need to take care of your physical fitness.

Ability to deal with confrontation

Things get hectic in the press grandstand or in the designated spotter grandstand. When two drivers drop out of the race and argue, the invisible fight takes place on the spotter booth between the drivers’ respective spotters.

There’s always a reason for an accident and spotters get into heated debates about whose driver crashed the other driver – especially when one driver gets left behind and the other’s day ends prematurely.

NASCAR spotters have a hierarchy, and it is common for the older, more experienced spotters to deal directly with their younger peers. Spotters not only reply to their bosses in the owner’s box, they can also reply to other spotters. Senior spotters set the tone at an event.

Of course, there is a mutual level of respect among all spotters, and even the older spotters are willing to work alongside their younger peers. Each race will bring something that a spotter, regardless of experience, has never seen before. As a NASCAR spotter, you must expect the unexpected and learn how to quickly replay those events.

To function well under stress and best handle confrontations, recall times when you have done this before and been successful. The funny thing about working under stress is that we’re all capable of it. You need to remember that 100% of the time you got through your most stressful moments. Having a good memory and staying calm will help your ability to function during those stressful moments.

Work out

Practice doesn’t make perfect, but it makes permanent. This means that no matter how much you practice to master a skill, mistakes will still happen. However, the more you practice a skill with good habits, the more natural that skill becomes.

Look at any job that is very demanding. The most successful people who held these jobs practiced even when they weren’t on the clock. Progress is often made when no one is looking. Set aside at least an hour a day, preferably at the same time of day, to practice the skills needed to become a NASCAR spotter.

Breaking into the NASCAR industry

All NASCAR spotters must find a way to break into the NASCAR industry, no matter how much basic knowledge they accumulate themselves. Luckily, you can do this by logging onto the NASCAR website and viewing the job listings. No, you will not find any “NASCAR Spotter Wanted” ads. However, you can network with people who work for the company.

Not all jobs are the most desirable. Once you get your foot in the door, take the first step to one day becoming a NASCAR spotter. You don’t have to work directly under NASCAR, consider one of their organizations like Hendrick Motorsports or Joe Gibbs Racing.

You can also build your CV by connecting and working with drivers at local circuits who may need spotters. You can even work in a different capacity for a NASCAR team and work as a spotter for a team at a local track if there is no conflict of interest. This is a great way to build your connections within the NASCAR industry while also gaining your experience as a spotter.

NASCAR is a competitive industry to break into, and becoming a NASCAR spotter is even more difficult given the limited number of jobs at all levels of the NASCAR pyramid. To further increase your chances of success, devote more time to your dream of becoming a spotter than to other activities.

Always remember that for every break you take, there is someone else out there working on instead. Keep working harder than your peers and you could carve your way into the NASCAR industry and eventually become a spotter.

Final Thoughts

NASCAR spotters use concentration and communication skills to effectively relay information about their immediate surroundings and potential obstacles to their drivers. The driver’s safety and performance depend on the spotter’s concentration and accuracy, making it one of the toughest tasks in motorsport.

How to become a sprint race radio spotter:

Radio spotters are expected in professional races like NASCAR, but they’re a surprisingly helpful resource even during a club-level sprint race.

As? What can spotters do during a sprint race? The advantage of a spotter is that he has a second pair of eyes. In the car we already use our eyes, ears and all our brain power to create and maintain a constant 360 degree image around our car. However, there are still times when we can’t see what might be helpful to us… It’s surprisingly difficult to catch a green flag drop the moment it starts. That extra moment needed to recognize and act on a problem or opportunity may not be fast enough.

How does this relate to No Money Motorsports and racing on a budget?

There are two main reasons I support radio systems: 1) Having a radio and a spotter offers a pretty serious competitive advantage for a relatively small buy-in. 2) Having a working radio setup in the car can be a lot of fun. A few drivers share the same frequency and the live banter/smack talk is one of my favorite parts of the racing experience.

STEP 1: Obtain a working radio setup – As we have discussed in previous articles how to build a budget racing radio setup – There are many systems available that cost thousands of dollars, most work well. But you can get the same functionality for a fraction of the cost… I’ve been trying to piece together my own system from various parts on eBay and Amazon for a while. I had a system that worked almost great, but the driver mic was the fatal flaw. Despite half a dozen tries, I could never get a mic that would transmit clearly from a LOUD race car. I finally found the “Nerdie Racing” kit: for $150 you basically get everything but the radio (wiring, adapter, mic, PTT, are included)… and it was all around much better quality than the pieced together “BTECH “-parts. After my microphone problems were fixed, the system works perfectly.

*Familiarize yourself with the frequencies and make absolutely sure you are not broadcasting on emergency services channels.

All in all (spotter included) I put together a setup that works fantastic for around $250.

For an easily printable trackside guide, print out the image at the bottom of this post.

Helpful radio tips for spotters:

A spotter can really be anyone. You don’t need to have a racing resume or a long list of experience. A basic understanding of motorsport (flags, understanding of track layout, etc.) is helpful but can be learned.

As a spotter you have access to a lot of helpful information for the driver. You should have your phone ready for any live timing app/website used by the race organization. For my races, that means “Race Hero”. “Race Monitor” is also popular. Live timing shows the position in class and lap times of your driver as well as the other drivers in the class.

Where to go: As a spotter, the most important thing you need to see is the starter grandstand so you can see when the green flag drops. Additionally, the more tracks you can see, the better. It’s nice to have a vantage point to see the lights of the pace car as it rounds the final corner (the lights go out when they plan to pit to drop the green flag ). It’s also nice to have a glimpse as the pace car rushes out onto the track to catch up with the field. Some tracks have a tower that offers a great view of most of the track.

QUALIFICATION:

When speaking to your driver over the radio, some of the most helpful information you can give the driver is:

Current position: Give updates on current position (“You’re first in class, Kevin is 2/10 behind”: “You’re second behind Ben, Kevin is 2/10 behind”). Note: In mixed class races (where more than one class is qualifying/racing at the same time) the ‘overall’ score is generally unimportant, be sure to compare your driver to the other cars in the class.

Lap time: Enter a fast lap and the current lap time when “Your best time is a 1:17.8” “This lap was a 1:18.4”

Whether or not the rider has a data system visible to them, updates in their ear are a great way to keep up with where they are and where they need to be. If they put down a flyer and there are no other cars around, they can choose to pit earlier (and hope no one hits their lap later in the session).

Session time: “We’re 9 minutes into the session”

In a standard qualifying, it only takes one good lap to secure a place on the grid. Some do a good lap and pit early, others stay out all the time. Knowing how much time has passed helps the driver make the decision to set a conservative time or pull out all the stops and race like hell to the checkered flag.

Inspector Flag: Call inspector when he appears. “Checker is out, Checker is out”

In the car, it’s good to know when you’re on the last hot lap. If you’ve already started a lap and know you’re off the pace, it’s nice to get in a little early and get to the top of the lock line.

Yellow: Share any yellow information you can see. Generally, if you qualify, you will not receive a full-course yellow, but do provide location and any information you can see from a local yellow. “Turn 5 yellow, car in the grass, they’re going back in”

Including WHY the yellow is out is important: a car in the grass will get back on track quickly… but if a car smashes the wall it likely means qualifying ends early with a black checkered flag.

In the grid:

By the time racers roll from their paddock spot to the grid, they should all be ready to hit the track, but the occasional last-minute “hiccup” isn’t unknown. If you want to enlighten, it’s a good idea to keep your radio on so the driver can communicate in case of a problem. Grid workers are very helpful, but they have limited time and resources… they’re also usually very busy and don’t always see someone waving for help.

The most common assistance drivers need while waiting on the grid is: fitting window screens, starting cameras, adjusting mirrors, checking hood pins, and the occasional push. For me: I always forget to open my passenger-side sail window vent (it lets in a surprising amount of fresh air when open). When a spotter is available on the radio, it is much easier for the driver to ask for help.

RUN:

During qualifying there is some useful information to keep a driver updated on his status and time. However, in the race, the spotter’s information can give the driver some real advantages over the other cars.

Start: Hold the mic hot as the pack first appears on the front stretch, yell “GREEN GREEN GREEN” once the starter begins the green flag descent. Holding the MIC hot will ensure there is no delay between the flag dropping and the driver hearing your command.

Make sure you are aware of how many “ripples” there will be. In mixed class races there is often more than one green flag, with each wave (class or group of similarly classified cars) getting its own. Also note that launches are not guaranteed and be prepared to pass this along in the event of a potential launch abort.

The most surprising thing for me when I first started racing was how hard it is to see the grid for race starts. While your most attention is focused on staying in a tight pack, you often crane your neck to try and see the flag stand through a car or two…sometimes it’s impossible to see and you’re stuck, waiting reacting to the increase in collective revs, a distinct disadvantage. With a spotter you can rely on, you can focus your full attention on not scoring another car in front of the green.

Pace Notes: Provide updates on position, failing cars in class, lap times, etc.

In a big race I often lose track of where I am. For some people, “Hey, you’re second!” is good…for others, it might be distracting.

Local Yellows: If you see a station showing local yellows for a quick 4-off or spin-and-continue and your driver is on the opposite side of the track, you can ignore it. If your driver is around, give him a call. If you see a local yellow that looks like it won’t be cleaned up quickly (wreck, stuck car, car far from the pavement, etc.), ring it to alert the driver. Be sure to be clear and start with “LOCAL” yellow so your driver doesn’t think they need to stop immediately.

Double Yellow (Full Course Yellow – FCY): As soon as you see a flag station displaying the double yellow “Full Course Yellow”, give them a call as this “Global Command” extends the entire route. Keep your driver informed of the position of emergency vehicles and distressed cars when the yellow is persistent: “You’re going to meet slow-moving tow trucks around the next corner”, “Car is being pulled away now, next lap likely to be green”, etc.

Going below yellow is the most common cause of disqualification for in-race violations. When battling a rider on an otherwise clear track, you may not notice the standing double yellows coming out. A spotter in your ear is another reminder so you don’t miss it

*Note not related to Spotter: When you are racing and notice a large number of cars that are strangely out of speed. Your FIRST reaction should be to check the nearest flag station. I’ve seen both novice and experienced drivers cut through packs of slowed-down cars. This earns you a DQ and can also become very dangerous.

Pace Truck Position: During an FCY, keep the rider on the pace truck and “grab” the position “half a lap ahead”, “you are two corners behind”, etc.

During a busy course it is VERY important to catch the pace truck and pack as soon as possible. When the track turns green, you’ll want to make sure you haven’t fallen out of the crowd as these properties are much more difficult to reclaim in green flag conditions. While you’ll certainly slow down in the incident area, the rest of your lap shouldn’t feature a parry speed. The problem with running to recapture the pack under double yellow: You can run into the pack around a corner or over a ridge… If an observer can share the position of the slow-moving train, it will help you to get them on a to catch reasonable pace.

Restarts: Probably THE biggest advantage you can have with a radio: Keep the driver informed on the pace truck and starter… Keep the mic hot on every lap you think might go green!”

Reboots are from single-file lines, creating a much longer line than an initial two-lane launch. This creates long queues of cars. At many circuits it is not uncommon for the green flag to drop while much of the field is still out of sight of the starter. As long as the stations around you have lowered their yellow flags, you can start racing.

Keeping a keen eye on local broadcasters raising their flag can inform a driver of the now-green conditions… but a friend yelling “GREEN GREEN GREEN” in his ear makes it pretty obvious

* As a driver, remember that you MUST watch for the yellow to disappear at your local station. Even if you’re still one corner away from the grandstand, you can overtake a car when that yellow is gone. It SHOULD be drawn as the green slopes down the front straight… but that’s not always the case.

Race time: “We’re 14 minutes into the race”

When racing you often lose any real sense of time, an external observer with access to the race clock and live timing can be very helpful in determining your own pace.

Halfway: For halfway (when you see it), call the (two crossed flags on the starter)

That’s the one flag I often miss. In our very close races, I sometimes miss the crossed, rolled-up flags that the flag holder in the starter stand keeps idle.

One Lap Remaining: Request a lap when you see curled white standing at the starter

Just in case the driver missed it: it’s time to go nuclear for that pass, or maybe it’s time to just keep your cool and not let a trailing car catch up… either way, very important ones Information you should have.

Checker & Finishing Position: When you see the checker flying, shout “Checker, you’ll get checker this time around”. After the goal, state the target positions in any way you can: “Great job, P3!” “Damn it, p25”, etc

I finish most of my races in so much direct combat that I don’t know my exact finishing position. It’s nice info for the cooldown round so you don’t wonder all the way to the confiscation.

Shut up: Or at least know when to do it: A very important part of the spotter job is knowing whether you are helpful or not. As much as this comes from a knowledge of motorsport, it comes from knowing your driver. Some people want nothing more than the green flag calls. Others, accustomed to casual sim racing league banter, enjoy in-depth conversations. Be sure to discuss this with your driver before he buckles in, find out what he wants… And don’t take offense if you hear a “shut up and let me drive!” over the radio.

Bonus:

My knowledge of spotting is based on my own experiences and preferences, so I turned to two great friends who are experts in the art of spotting (although they might argue otherwise) for some additional insight and tips.

TJ Yard has been racing Spec E30’s for a few years but has a lifetime of experience as a motorsports fanatic. When he’s not racing he’s watching oval track races or working on crews for sprint, race and enduro teams.

TJ’s insights:

The spotter’s tone of voice and ability to remain calm, cool and collected is very important. The driver is already working hard and nervous, so an excitable spotter becomes a more excitable driver.

Reminders for the rider to “keep loose” like the basics like reaching out and staying hydrated for long races.

Double and triple check information before giving it to the driver. Nothing is worse than when the scout says something just to say, “Oh sorry, that was wrong, here’s the right information”. This can add additional overload to an already overwhelming situation.

Also simplify the information. No long sentences. If you can’t relay what you need to say while the driver is driving down a short straight, then trim it. If possible, avoid talking to the driver, even when cornering. Some drivers have difficulty speaking while cornering or in a fight etc. Always finish with “Copy” if the information has been received correctly.

Matt Elsemore recently founded Trackside Motorsports but has been working as a professional trackside support in the North East for years. He is the behind-the-scenes expert helping to keep multiple cars running and competitive weekend after weekend. Matt is just as comfortable keeping cars running as he is on the radio.

Matt’s insights:

A driver can immediately communicate car issues and setup changes to the spotter, allowing the spotter to take notes to tweak the car after the session… before the driver forgets.

If the driver makes contact with another car on the track, he can radio the spotter for a visual check while the car is passing. This can save you from a pit stop to have the car checked (a pit stop that effectively strips you of any chance of competing in a sprint race). If you do need to pit for a sight check, letting the spotter wait at the pit wall will save you time and you may get out in time to retake some positions.

A spotter may also work to check and record tire temperatures and/or pressures after sessions.

Spotters should try to gather as much outside information as possible. Pay attention to what other spotters are saying. If the race is shared/televisioned/shown, I can find a TV or tablet running the race. I’ll even keep an eye out for other teams’ body language. Watching the race live is a huge benefit to see if there’s a greasy track, wet curbs or a range of things.

Using “deltas” is nice so you can pass predictive deltas. If your driver is a tenth faster for 3 laps, you can calculate how much your driver needs to push to either catch or keep a chasing car at bay.

Bonus 2: Printable Spotter Guide:

Print these out and keep them in your bag along with your radio gear to be of use to anyone who might act as an observer along the route.

Having a radio spotter is not only a competitive advantage, it is also meant to be fun. Sharing the experience with someone is another detail that makes racing more fun. It’s a way to get non-racers involved in the fun of racing, whether they’re there for HPDE, a ‘race crew’, or just someone chasing a track weekend.

For information on how to build your own budget radio setup, click here: How to Build a Budget Friendly Racing Radio Setup – 3 Essential Parts to Get You Started for MUCH Less Than You Think

Need to refresh your knowledge of the flags? We also have that: The 14 Racing Flags you MUST know for HPDE: Post 36

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These 20x50mm PowerView binoculars feature a massive 20x magnification for long-distance vision, large 50mm objective lenses increase light capture and viewing comfort. The Porro prisms offer fantastic light transmission for a brighter image. The Insta-Focus system allows for quick and accurate focusing, and the durable construction will serve you for years.

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The first choice for millions of people. PowerView®. The powerhouse of the binoculars industry and the most reliable optics on the planet for one simple reason – they’re the optimal combination of performance and value for any pursuit. Features like their soft-touch grip pads set them apart, and everything looks better with bright, clear, fully coated optics. And we intentionally crafted these binoculars with a lightweight, streamlined design so you never have to be without them. The ultimate all-round, do-it-all lineup, PowerView offers a wide range of magnifications, styles and sizes to handle anything from an extended hike in the backcountry to a quick run to the concert hall.

However, there is a daunting number of sizes and styles of binoculars on the market. So how do you know what’s best for you? Here’s a simple guide to buying binoculars, giving you tips on what to look for and how to choose the perfect pair.

Want to use your new binoculars for wildlife viewing around the world? Blue Sky Wildlife’s local specialist tour operators offer scheduled departures or customized trips to the world’s premier wildlife areas, allowing you to get up close and personal with your favorite wildlife with your new lens. Inquire direct or book through Blue Sky Wildlife for the best deals.

Buying a good pair of binoculars is a worthwhile investment as it will make a world of difference to your wildlife viewing experience. When you’ve spent your hard-earned money on a fabulous nature vacation, you want to be sure you’re getting a great view of the wildlife. Even at home, watching the birds at your bird feeders is much better when you can see them up close.

What to look out for when buying binoculars for wildlife viewing

When you are looking to buy binoculars you will see a series of numbers, usually on the dial between the two eyepiece tubes. The first number refers to the magnification that the binoculars provide. The second number refers to the diameter of the so-called “lenses”. These are the eyepiece lenses furthest from you when you hold the binoculars to your eyes. Or closer to the “object” you’re looking at, hence the name.

Photo credit: Virginia State Parks

For example, if the numbers are 8 × 32, it means that the binoculars have a magnification of 8x and the front lenses are each 32mm in diameter.

Game viewing is best done with binoculars that are 8×32 or 8×42. This is an 8x magnification and a 32mm or 42mm diameter front lens. Why is this? You might think that higher magnification gives you even better views. So why not a 10x or 12x magnification?

The reason for sticking to 8x is that the larger the magnification, the smaller the field of view. The smaller the field of view, the more difficult it is to locate the animal you just spotted. This is especially true when you need to raise the binoculars to your eyes quickly. For example, if you are trying to see a small bird that you heard flying around in a tree. It would apply equally to any wildlife viewing. For example, if you’re trying to see the action amidst a wildebeest herd.

Why does the diameter of the front lens matter when buying binoculars?

The larger the objective lenses, the more light is admitted into the binocular body and the brighter the image will appear to your eyes. Small pocket binoculars give you the same magnification. But their smaller front lenses don’t allow for as bright, clear a view of your wildlife subjects as larger ones.

So if you want to buy binoculars in the recommended sizes what is the difference between buying 32mm and 42mm? Surely 42mm lets in more light and is therefore better?

That’s certainly true, but it also has to do with the weight. Binoculars with 42mm lenses are slightly larger and heavier than those with 32mm lenses. If you wear them around your neck all day while spotting wildlife, the added weight can make a difference.

The two types of binocular shapes

Binoculars come in two basic styles, known as porro prisms and roof prisms, and they’re easy to tell apart. There are pros and cons to buying binoculars of each type, so it comes down to individual taste and how you feel in your hand which one you choose.

The “prism” part of the name refers to the glass wedges found in the barrel of each eyepiece. For the purposes of this buying guide, it is not necessary to go into too much detail about how binoculars work. Suffice it to say that the image entering the eyepieces is distorted by the convex curvature of the lenses and the prisms correct the distortion.

Photo Credit: Shutterstock – Porro Prism Binoculars

porro prisms

These are binoculars that contain two prisms placed at an angle to each other. The eyepiece tubes are designed with a “dog leg” in the middle to accommodate the two prisms. These are the binoculars that used to be standard – you know their look from old models. Their advantage is that these binoculars work very well at the budget end of the market. However, they are not as compact and are not considered to be as durable as the style known as the roof prism.

roof prisms

These are binoculars in which the prisms are aligned one above the other. In appearance, therefore, the eyepiece tubes are straight from front to back. This type of binocular has become the most popular option over the past 20 years. They’re more complicated and precise to manufacture, but they’re also sturdier and some find they feel better in the hand.

In the field of binoculars, however, porro prisms tend to be better than roof prisms. But in the mid-range and above, roof prisms tend to defeat porros.

Photo Credit: Shutterstock – Roof Prism Binoculars

As a final note on prisms, you may find references to different types of prisms built into a given binocular in user literature. BAK4 prisms are ground more finely and are therefore of a slightly higher quality than BK7 prisms. But these days, most mid-range binoculars are good, no matter which one is used.

Binoculars Terms Objective lens – the front end of the binoculars Ocular lens – the eye end of the binoculars Exit pupil – calculated as the diameter of the objective lens divided by the magnification, which gives the diameter of the light beam passing through each eyepiece and hits the retina of your eye. In daylight this doesn’t matter, but for twilight and dawn wildlife viewing you need to look for binoculars with a large exit pupil. Interpupillary distance – the distance between the lens of the eye and the exit pupil. In other words, the distance from where the light enters the binoculars to where it hits the center of your eye. If the eye relief is not set correctly, you will see black circles around the image. Diopter – the focusing wheel that is part of the eyepiece lens on the right eyepiece. You set this the first time you use it, but then it’s left alone. This corrects any visual differences between the right and left eyes. All subsequent focusing is done with the middle focusing wheel between the two eyepieces. The diopter should therefore not turn too easily, otherwise it can easily be moved out of its setting. Middle focusing wheel – in contrast to the diopter, this should be smooth-running and not too sensitive.

What makes the difference to the cost of buying binoculars for wildlife viewing?

The price when buying binoculars is determined by the quality of the lenses and the prisms in the eyepieces. The higher the quality of the glass, the more light falls through. Cheaper prisms cause shading at the edges of the image and it appears less clear. So cheaper binoculars are not so good on cloudy days, at dawn or dusk. The high-quality lenses and prisms found in high-end binoculars allow them to be used in very low light. Sometimes it’s even possible to see things reasonably clearly when the light levels are too low for your eyes.

There are also some desirable features and additions to binoculars that can justify paying a little more than a base price.

Gas-filled eye tubes

This means that the air in the eye tubes has been replaced with nitrogen. It makes the binoculars airtight and watertight and prevents the binoculars from fogging up in the event of sudden temperature changes. You usually get this with high-end binoculars.

Image credit: Shutterstock – Fixed eyecups

Rotating eyecups

Binoculars have either fixed or twist-up eyecups. Both types of eyecups are designed to ensure your eyes are the correct distance from the binoculars for a clear, undistorted view – this is known as correct eye relief (see binocular terms). They also help protect your eyes from strong sunlight. With fixed eyecups, the eyecup forms a lip around the lens to give eye relief, but they don’t move. With twist-up eyecups, they start flush with the surface of the lens, but you can gradually screw them up to adjust to what’s comfortable for your eyesight and gives you the clearest view. These are recommended as they give you the most flexibility, especially if you intend to use the binoculars with glasses. Some fixed eyecups allow you to fold back the rubber when wearing glasses, but that doesn’t give you the same level of control.

coatings on the lenses

These reduce reflected light, increasing the amount of light that reaches your eye and giving you a clearer view of your subject.

close focus

If your wildlife viewing drives you to study insects or you’re a keen botanist, see how close you can get to the subject and still focus. The higher end binoculars usually give you the ability to focus very close to the animal or plant and really see the details. With less expensive types, you can only focus to a distance of about 150 cm from the subject.

And finally…

If possible, try out your binoculars before you buy them. If possible, find a camera store or optician where you can hold the binoculars, look through the lenses, play with the focus, and compare brands and models. Not every brand or size will feel comfortable in your hands or work with your eyes. You can pay big bucks to buy high-end binoculars, but that doesn’t guarantee you’ll get by with them.

Photo credit: Steve Hillebrand – Try binoculars

Viewing a range of objects at different distances with a range of different binoculars should also reveal any quality defects in the lenses. For example, there can be evidence of a slight curvature of vision when straight lines aren’t perfectly straight. Or what you see might be a bit soft around the edges or have a “halo” of color around it. These mistakes matter only to the extent that they affect how you view your issues. If you’re happy with all other aspects of the binoculars you’re considering, you may be willing to put up with a little softness or curvature.

In summary, while the focus is on looking through the eyepieces, ease of use and comfort are of course also very important. Finally, you might buy binoculars that will give you a lifetime of wildlife spotting.

SETTING UP YOUR BINOCULARS

Photo Credit: Ashley Spratt USFWS – Crowd watches monarch butterflies

Once you’ve selected the ideal binoculars for your wildlife viewing needs and budget, you need to set them up to get the best view.

First adjust the distance between the two eyepieces by opening or closing where they hinge until you are satisfied that you have a single clear view through them. There shouldn’t be any dark circles disturbing the image, even if it’s not in focus yet. Cover the right objective lens (front lens) with the lens cover or your cupped hand and choose a point in the middle to long distance to focus on. Use the center dial between the eyepiece tubes to adjust the focus in the left eyepiece until the selected object is clearly visible. Cover the right objective lens and cover the left. Look at the same object as before, but this time use the ring around the right eyepiece, the diopter to focus clearly on the object in the right eyepiece. Bare both lenses and from now on use only the center dial between the two eyepiece tubes to do all the focusing.

You may need to repeat these steps if the lighting conditions change and it gets much brighter or much darker. You may also need to readjust the binoculars the next time you take them out, as the dioptres sometimes shift when stowed away.

Before I switched to 12×50 binoculars, I would tie a pair of 10x binoculars around my neck and tuck a pair of 15×56 Swarovski’s neatly into my backpack. In theory, I needed the 10s for close-ups and quick hand glazing, but once I got to my designated spot, I broke out the 15s, mounted them on a tripod, and started digging into the details.

Then, one January, I was conducting with Dan Bishop from Cola Blanca Outfitters down in Mexico. He used a pair of old Leica 12×50 BN. He was confident that he could see just as many Coues deer at 12 as he could at 15 and found they weren’t too shaky when holding hands. I wasn’t really convinced and stayed with my two-binocular system for a few more years.

When Swarovski introduced the 12×50 EL I did a few hunts on them but I was still skeptical. Could I get away with archery on a moose hunt at 12 if I often only look a few hundred yards? Would I miss a deer feeding in the shade over a mile away?

The only way to find out was to commit, so the only pair of binoculars I carried with me for an entire hunting season was the 12×50 EL. By the end of the season I was sold; not once did I feel like I made a bad decision.

Of course, there are times when 8x binoculars would be a better choice in thick wood, and there are a few glass knobs where the 15x SLCs would prevail. However, if you don’t have a small fortune in binoculars and just want all-around binoculars for western hunting, a quality pair of 12x50s may be the best choice you can make.

fine detail

The human eye and the brain’s visual processing center is a very complex and wonderful system. Believe it or not, only one percent of your total vision – or a quarter’s range at arm’s length – is actually sharp and in the right color at any one time.

Think about it; When you read a book, you have to move your eyes across the page to read it. You can “see” the entire page at once, but to process the details you need to focus on each word.

But as you concentrate on reading and your wife enters the room, your peripheral vision picks up on her movement and you can “see” her too. This is due to the fact that the remaining 99% of your eyesight is designed to pick up movement quickly so the saber-toothed tiger can’t sneak up on you and eat you. It’s a matter of survival.

Give and take

The reason I mentioned these details is twofold. Firstly, when you hold binoculars in your hand, you can only effectively use 1% of the total field of view. So the difference between a 10x, 12x or 15x binocular is really not significant. Of course, the 10x gets a bit easier because it’s inevitably lighter and less vibration is perceived at the lower magnification.

Second, a wide field of view through binoculars increases the chance you’ll catch the buck when he gets up for a midday stretch. Here we have to talk about a compromise between binoculars with different performance.

A typical 10×42 offers about 330 feet of field of view at 1000 yards, while the average 12×50 is just under 300 feet; 15x binoculars are generally under 250 feet. So while you see a larger image at 15x magnification, you can see more area at 12x magnification and even more at 10x magnification. This may all seem perfectly obvious, but it’s important to think about what those numbers will represent in the field.

Within each optics company’s product offering, you may find that more magnification usually means more money. One of the reasons for this is that if there are any imperfections in the binoculars, the higher magnification only makes those problems worse (no pun intended). So there will always be a slightly higher rejection rate and greater demand for rigorous quality control, driving up costs.

While the binoculars we’re reviewing here may seem expensive, they’re worth it! Keep in mind that I’m advocating a system with one pair of binoculars instead of two, so the net cost is lower regardless.

These binoculars were chosen because they are the best 12x binoculars available today. Honestly, you wouldn’t go wrong buying one of these. I realize that even the Vortex Razor is still expensive at $1099, but given the life expectancy of one of these optics, it breaks down to a few dollars a year (that’s my story, and I’m sticking with it).

I spent some time at the Outdoorsmans store and let the guys give their opinion on each pair of binoculars. We all had different opinions on the ergonomics, but I was really surprised at how different we were when it came to the optical properties. It was a testament to human variability and the need to make up your own mind based on your own experiences.

The best 12×50 binoculars in the business

When it came to edge-to-edge clarity, the Swarovskis were the clear winners. The majority of testers agreed that the EL were well balanced and the easiest to use. If you want to mount them on a tripod, you’ll need to have the Outdoorsmans install one of their bino bolts or buy their bino hand adapter ($89.99). The downside is the price – at $2869 they are the most expensive 12 Power on the market.

Vortex 12×50 Razor HD

I’ve owned a pair of 12×50 Razor HD’s since they were introduced. I have used them on several hunts over the years and have loaned them to many friends and no one has been disappointed with their performance. The middle resolution is excellent, but every tester noticed color fringes. Still, we agree that it would never cost us a deer in the field. The Razor’s seemed the trickiest to hold, which I put down to being the lightest pair on test and the most compact. These two points could easily be a positive attribute as well. They are threaded for a center post for easy attachment to a tripod.

Leica 12×50 Ultravid HD

As I mentioned Leica was the first high performance company to offer a 12×50 about 20 years ago so kudos to them for their vision. At 35 ounces, the Ultravid HD was easy to hold and everyone agreed their eyecups were extremely comfortable, which can make all the difference on a long day. They are not threaded for a center post, so consider purchasing the Outdoorsman Bino Hand to mount on a tripod.

GPO Passion 12.5 x 50 HD

GPO may be a young company but they offer very impressive visuals for the dollar. The Passion 12.5×50 HD is a great example – for $1299 they offer excellent center resolution and colour. As crazy as it sounds, I could tell the difference in the extra 0.5x magnification (12.5x vs. 12x) when reading street signs from a tripod. They are comfortable to hold and are threaded for a center post adapter. The only complaint from our testers was that the diopter adjustment has hard click stops and some felt they couldn’t focus perfectly.

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