Best Fingerboard Grip Tape? Quick Answer

Ducky Tape is our new completely transparent fingerboard grip. Ducky Tape is made from a rubber material that is similar in performance to shrunken foam tape. It’s smooth but insanely grippy (but not sticky!). Ducky Tape is only 0.2mm thick and is supplied in 3 sheets of 38mm x 108mm.

Ducky Tape features a strong 3M adhesive backing that is fully transparent.

Product overview

Neoprene foam tape is a closed cell blend of neoprene sponge, EPDM and synthetic rubber with a dense mass of tiny pores (or cells) to seal out air, moisture, liquids, gas, oil and more. Neoprene elastic is ideal for higher temperature applications where the seal is not frequently reopened or broken.

LAMATEK’s neoprene elastic band is available in different grades from soft to firm to absorb different weights and compression levels.

When browsing through all the strap options on Teak Tuning, the many options available can seem overwhelming. How do you know which one is right for you? Here is a guide to tape on teak tuning:

PROlific Foam Tape

Foam tape is the most common type of tape used in fingerboarding. It is soft on the fingers and still offers a lot of grip when driving. Teak has a few types of foam tape.

The PROlific Tape line is a collection of professional foam tapes that includes:

1mm PROlific Tape: 1mm thin professional grade foam tape.

1mm Easy Peel Edition PROlific Tape: Exactly the same as 1mm PROlific Tape, but with this version the adhesive backing is easier to peel off.

0.5mm Ultra Thin Foam Tape: One of the thinnest tapes on the market! This thin tape will help you feel the shape of the board underneath.

If you’re not sure which foam tape you prefer, you can grab the foam tape sample pack to try all three types.

skate grip

Teak tuning skate grip is just like standard skateboard grip but a little smoother so it won’t hurt your fingers.

Skate-Grip is perfect for riders who want that realistic skateboarding feel, enjoy skate-grip on tech decks, or want to do dark slides.

A dark slide is a type of slide where you slide down the rail or ramp while your board is upside down. Standard foam tape doesn’t slip, but the skate grip is perfect for this trick.

The teak skate grip line is one of the most diverse skate grip lines on the fingerboard market. We have simple solid colors and graphic design skate grips. Each graphic is professionally printed to the touch and will not peel off.

Gecko Grip

Gecko Grip is a unique line of tape from Teak Tuning and is available in a few versions.

This line of tape features unique textures that are completely different from traditional foam tape and skate grip options, but are still great for fingerboarding. Gecko Grip also tends to be more durable, lasting much longer than traditional tape options. Plus, they’re available in multiple colors!

Urethane Edition: Features a medium grip with a unique urethane texture.

Trick Tape Edition: Totally unique rubbery texture with insane grip. This tape is perfect for learning new stances and tricks like nollie and switch stances. This tape is available in two colors: anthracite and pink.

Smooth Urethane Edition: Features a semi-transparent coloring with a light touch and unique texture. This band can also be used for dark slides and is recommended for experienced riders.

Because the gecko grip is so unique, you may want to pick up the gecko grip sample pack to try a reed of each type and see which one you like best.

Yes!

Let’s start with the right foot – or left foot if you’re left-handed. It’s good to set the record straight. Skateboards can get wet. When and how they get wet can determine whether they are damaged by water. For example, riding a skateboard in the rain is not the same as submerging it in water, which is different than leaving it out in the rain.

The deck or board

Skateboard decks are usually made of wood. When in contact with water, wood can soften and deform. Even after drying out, the board may not perform as well as it did before it got wet. You may find that the skateboard no longer has a crisp pop.

The bearings and bolts

When skateboards get wet, their bearings can lose lubrication and the pins can rust. When lubrication fails, the skateboard slows down and the bearings weaken from within. The skateboard doesn’t move as quickly or smoothly as you expect. When water gets below the surface, it takes a long time to dry. This causes the screws to rust. Rusty screws can lead to breakage, although breakage is a slow process and not a sudden one. Other parts of the skateboard to consider for the effects of water:

The grip tape is good for giving your feet traction on the board, even when it’s wet. But grip tape can lose adhesion over time from repeated wetting and drying. In this case, the tape will begin to peel off the deck.

Skateboard trucks can withstand water for some time, but if they get wet too often, they quickly start to rust.

Hard synthetic rubber skateboard wheels have absolutely no problem getting wet.

What comes after wetting?

If your skateboard gets wet, there are a few things you can do to reduce the consequences. The most important thing is to remove the skateboard from the water source and dry it. Some of the necessary things are:

Remove the hardware to separate the deck from the trucks. You can then use a towel or rag to dry the board, hardware, trucks, and grip tape.

Remove the wheels and then dry the inner and outer parts of the bearings. Spray some lubricant on the bearings. This ensures that the bearings are protected from rust.

Lay the deck in the sun for as long as possible to dry. If you have inclement weather, store it in a garage to air dry. To confirm whether the skateboard is dry or not, tap on it and listen for the sound it makes. If you hear a drying sound, the skateboard is dry. Once that is accomplished, reassemble the board and continue to enjoy skateboarding.

Start and enjoy skating

Try to avoid getting your skateboard wet as much as possible. Water is bad for camps, boards, trucks and bolts. Also, you may have to deal with aquaplaning, which could affect your ability to control the skateboard. So try not to skate in the rain or through puddles. However, if your skateboard does get wet, follow the steps above and you should be good to go.

But . . . What about your electric skateboard?

Can electric skateboards get wet?

Electric skateboards are a slightly different story. They have the same considerations as their non-powered counterparts: a deck, wheels, bearings and screws. But the battery, motor and electronic components must also be taken into account.

An electric skateboard may advertise some water resistance, but that doesn’t mean it’s waterproof. Even circuit boards with high IP ratings are at risk of damaging electrical and drive systems when exposed to repeated or prolonged exposure to wet conditions. When board malfunctions occur, there is a higher than normal risk of serious injury. Electric skateboards should always be wiped down and dried after riding in wet conditions.

In the end, trust your instincts. A few people rode in the rain and their boards were fine. Others end up with a destroyed board. Always check the IP rating of an electric skateboard and use our guide.

Grabbing a skateboard deck

Grip tape is an essential part of the skate setup as it provides the traction needed to keep your foot on the board, especially when performing tricks. Some boards already have a good grip, others don’t. No matter what you’re skating, at some point in your skating career you’ll need to grab or re-grip a deck, so read this article and learn how! You can also watch our how-to video here if things are still unclear after going through this tutorial. Much luck!

For the purposes of this article, we’ll assume you’re grabbing the entire deck. To keep it simple, we lay down the basics in 4 easy steps. Follow the instructions or jump to one of the following steps:

Tip: Once you have an idea of ​​how the process works, you can customize your griptape by cutting out designs or even create windows to display the board’s graphics if they’re just too cool to cover up.

Gather materials

First, gather the following materials that you will use to attach the grip tape.

Griptape – You will need a sheet of griptape, which usually comes precut for installation (approximately 9″ x 33″ for a standard deck size).

– You will need a sheet of griptape which usually comes precut for installation (approx 9″ x 33″ for a standard deck size). Razor Blade or Box Cutter – A single blade or box cutter is used to cut the grip tape. Your work will be much easier when it’s sharp.

– A single blade or utility knife is used to cut the grip tape. Your work will be much easier when it’s sharp. Screwdriver – To sand down the edges of the grip tape you will need a rounded metal rod. An old screwdriver works great for this purpose.

Buy all grip tapes

Start at one end of the deck – nose or tail, it doesn’t matter. Take the sheet of griptape and place it on the deck so that it extends about 1 inch past the end. (This will ensure you have some extra material to work with in a few minutes with the screwdriver.) Now check that when the sheet of griptape is flush with the deck it extends to the other end of the deck plus an inch or two. If everything looks good, you can attach the sheet permanently.

Start by cutting off a small corner of the overhanging grip tape and use it to sand down the deck. (Make sure this is a corner of the material that would otherwise go to the scrap heap.) Now you can peel the grip tape off JUST A BIT. Starting at the end of the deck, lay the sheet out as you did when lining it up – centering it across the width of the board but leaving about an inch overhang at the top. Use your hand to smooth down the grip tape as you work your way down the board, peeling off the backing as you go. When you reach the other end of the deck, you should notice that the grip tape is straight and sticking out a little over the edges.

In this next step you should work your way around the deck and grind an outline of the board into the sheet of griptape. Use the rounded shank of the screwdriver to rub the griptape along the edges of the deck, eventually creating a visible white line in the material. This line indicates that you’ve sanded the griptape along the edges of the skateboard to create a secure edge that won’t easily peel off. (This also makes it easy to see where you need to cut off the excess material in the final step.) Now it’s time to finish the job.

Using a sharp razor blade or box cutter, carefully trim the edges of the grip tape. Follow the white line you made with the screwdriver in the previous step; Not only is it an excellent guideline, but the material there is weak, making it easier to cut through. When the scrap pieces have been removed, your board should look almost finished. All you have to do now is take that screwdriver and round the edges again. Rub them into the skate deck to create a good transition between deck and griptape and to ensure the material doesn’t peel off. Tada! Everything ended. Now you can assemble all the parts and build yourself a complete skateboard. Check out our guide to creating a skateboard for more information.

Learn from Portland Shop Manager Kevin N. how to cut and apply your grip tape to precisely match the shape and placement of your deck’s top graphic.

keep learning

Do you have anymore questions?

We are here to help. You can call, email, chat or IM seven days a week during business hours. Our customer service reps skate… a lot. They know their stuff and are happy to help you with anything skating related.

Grip tapes are multi-layer materials typically consisting of a high friction top layer bonded to a removable paper backing with an adhesive layer. Common names for grip tape are anti-slip tape and anti-slip tape. Trade names include 3M™ Safety-Walk™ Non-Slip Tread, 3M™ Grip Material and Gator Grip™ Anti-Slip Tape. Laser cutting of grip tape can be done with a 9.3 or 10.6 micron CO 2 laser. The laser beam quickly heats and vaporizes the material directly in the beam path, creating a clean cut through all layers. Laser cutting of grip tapes is beneficial because many of the high-friction top layers contain abrasive materials that can quickly dull the cutting blades of mechanical tools with traditional cutting edges.

Designed and shipped from the USA

For fingerboarders, by fingerboarders

Teak Tuning was founded in 2014 with one goal – to offer the scene a wide range of high quality and affordable fretboard products. In addition to the largest tuning selection on the market, we also offer complete sets, decks, rails, ramps, cases, wheels and other premium accessories.

Based in Rochester, NY – almost everything is either handmade or hand assembled in the United States.