Best Fishing Line For Pole Rigs? The 68 Correct Answer

Pole Elastic Reviews If you’re looking for the best pole elastic then we’ve put together an in-depth guide below on what type of material is available and when to use it.

Pole elastic types

The most flexible type are solid rubber bands, which offer more control over your line tension.

Hollow elastics offer less grip but can stretch up to four times their original length – giving them great versatility in most fishing scenarios.

Pile elastic strengths

You can use a heavy solid elastic (rated between #8 and #20) for larger fish like chub or carp, or a light solid elastic (rated between #3 and #8) for natural waters when targeting smaller fish fish fish.

Hollow stick elastic offers much more stretch and is softer and is often available in a wider range of denominations.

This means you can use hollow elastics for many fishing situations with either light (1 to 5), medium (6-12) or large (12+) options.

Remember that edge bars require a stronger elastic!

How to connect Pole Elastic

There are three methods to connect your Pole Elastic.

You can use a dacron connector (sold here), which helps keep your line off your pole tip to avoid tangling, or a crow’s foot, where you tie a simple loop in the elastic, which is a very direct method.

To connect, you can simply lasso with whatever rig you choose.

The last method involves using a plastic connector, which is the most common and incredibly easy to use.

A Dacron connector

Before we dive into our rubber bar reviews, here are our three tips if you’re short on time.

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1. Daiwa Hydrolastic

Best Pole Elastic – Overall Winner!

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Add a touch of elasticity to your leash and watch your catch rate skyrocket!

Daiwa Hydrolastic is one of the best rubber poles on the market, backed by an award-winning concept.

With a fully patented elastic rod system, Daiwa has created the perfect rod for any angler looking to engage in high catch rate mixed fisheries.

Watch how quickly your success rate increases when you use one of these special rubber bands!

The hollow construction offers a wide range of ratings suitable for almost any fishery and is made from a high performance ‘secret’ fluid, a fully patented design by Daiwa.

The pole rubber expands first, and when it is compressed, the inner walls “close” and are then held in place by this liquid.

Available in a variety of sizes and color coded to match whatever fishing technique you’re currently engaged in, you’ll never feel frustrated with broken rubber bands or lost fish ever again!

Elastic Ratings Yellow 3-5

Pink 4-6

F1 Orange – 4-8

Blue 5-8

White 6-10

Gray 10-14

Black 12-16

Purple 14-18

Red 16-20

Brown 20+ strength

Watch the video now

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2. Matrix Slik Elastic

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Matrix Slik Elastic offers the ideal hybrid between hollow and solid.

Benefits include unmatched stretch properties with no flattening or air bubbles.

The smooth coating ensures minimal friction making it the perfect flexible pole for fishing in all weather conditions.

This unique material is available in six sizes and allows up to 600% more stretch than traditional latex elastic.

In addition, it is extremely hard wearing and durable and comes in 3m lengths.

One of the best pole elastics for all types of pole fishing!

Elastic Values ​​3-5 (0.9mm) Red

4-6 (1mm) Yellow

6-8 (1.2mm) Orange

8-10 (1.4mm) Green

10-12 (1.6mm) Red

12-14 (1.8mm) Orange

14-16 (2mm) Yellow

16-18 (2.2mm) Green

18-20 (2.4mm) Red

20-22 (2.6mm) Orange

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3. Preston Hollo elastic

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Preston Hollo is one of the best commercial pole rubbers you can get and is ideal for many species including silverfish, skimmers and F1’s.

However, it is equally suitable for fishing in lakes, canals and rivers for roach, bream – and even pike!

Constructed from the highest quality materials, this pole elastic offers hassle free fishing with six available strengths.

It comes in 3m lengths in a sealed pouch so it stays in perfect condition until needed.

Thanks to a special manufacturing process, no lubricant needs to be injected!

For commercial fishing this is probably the best pole rubber out there.

Elastic reviews size 7

size 9

size 11

size 13

size 15

size 17

size 19

Watch the video now

How to make a top kit elastic

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4. Drennan Polemaster Carp Bungee

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Drennan Polemaster Carp Bungee is a Pole Elastic with fantastic stretch properties compared to solid latex, with a fast recovery rate!

Five sizes are available, each with their own characteristics to suit your fishing style or the species of fish you are targeting.

Highly visible, makes a great shock absorber and comes with a bungee bead (excluding F1/Silverfish)

A Dacron connector is also included to get you fishing quickly.

One of the best elastics for hollow bars from a popular brand.

Elastic Ratings Aqua 4 to 6

Green 6 to 8

Yellow 10 to 12

Pink 14 to 16

Red 18 to 20

Using Drennan Pole Elastic

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5. Nufish Zip Elastic

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Available in 3 meter lengths, Nufish Zipp Hybrid Pole Elastic is designed to withstand the added friction of puller kits, while its structure offers incredible strength and durability.

It has the advantages of both solid and hollow bar elastic, offering maximum stretch, a small diameter and a smooth finish, and does not suffer from the flattening common to hollow elastic.

With seven sizes available there is a pole elastic for big carp, silverfish and F1 – the best pole elastic for puller kits!

Elastic Ratings Size: 4-6 – Diameter: 1.2mm – Color: Fluoro Pink

Size: 6-8 – Diameter: 1.4mm – Colour: Fluoro Yello

Size: 8-10 – Diameter: 1.6mm – Colour: Fluoro Orange

Size: 10-12 – Diameter: 1.8mm – Colour: White

Size: 12-14 – Diameter: 2.0mm – Color: Black

Size: 14-16 – Diameter: 2.2mm – Colour: Fluorine Green

Size: 16-18 – Diameter: 2.4mm – Colour: Fluorescent Blue

Zipp Hybrid Elastic explained

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6. MAP TKS double core hollow rubber

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Extremely durable and available in seven sizes, MAP TKS Twin Core Hollow Pole Elastic retracts much quicker than a solid elastic, which is why it’s a favorite of many top anglers including James Dent, Andy May and Jamie Hughes!

Super smooth, with an incredible stretch ratio, you get 3m per package.

The inner core is actually transparent – that’s the main reason it retracts faster, while the colored outside offers excellent stretch.

Works perfectly with MAP PTFE Side Puller Bush, again no additional lubrication is required.

In my opinion, it deserves a spot on our list of the best bar gummies!

Elastic Ratings 10-14 Elastic Green

12-16 Elastic Black

14-18 Elastic Blue

16-20 Elastic Purple

3-6 Elastic Orange

5-8 Elastic Yellow

6-10 Elastic White

6-8 Elastic Pink

Pole Elastic for winter fishing

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7.Matrix Hollow Core Pole Elastic

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Matrix Hollow Core Elastic is 100% pure latex and is designed to cover all styles of pole fishing.

There are six ultra-bright fluorescent sizes to choose from, each with an amber core that results in much better stretch than traditional hollow elastics!

Sizes available range from 6-8 (1.40mm) to 16-18 (2.60mm).

The best pole rubber for commercial fishing spots at home and in Europe.

Elastic values ​​size 6-8 (1.40 mm)

Size 8-10 (1.80mm)

Size 10-12 (2.10mm)

Size 12-14 (2.30mm)

Size 14-16 (2.40mm)

Size 16-18 (2.60mm)

Choice of hollow rubber bands

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8. Preston Original Slip Elastic

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Preston ‘Original’ Slip Elastic is still incredibly popular with many pole anglers and was one of the first to offer ‘color coded’ rod elastics!

Pre-treated with anti-friction lubricant it is extremely reliable with excellent abrasion resistance and each pack gives you an impressive 5m length.

With ten sizes to choose from, you really are spoiled for choice here.

Size 2 is really fine (0.67mm) all the way up to a thicker size 16 (2.0mm) to deal with larger carp.

A classic choice, you can’t go wrong when you choose Preston Original Slip Pole Elastic!

It’s our top pole elastic list for years of reliability.

Elastic Values ​​2 Red 0.67mm

3 Green 0.75mm

4 Orange 0.85mm

5 Blue 0.91mm

6 Yellow 1.06mm

8 Black 1.27mm

10 Extra Blue 1.4mm,

12 Extra Green 1.6mm

14 Extra Violet 1.8mm

16 Extra Yellow 2.0mm

Lee Kerry explains Original Slip Elastic

9. Preston Dura Slip Hybrid Stock Elastic

Tackle Scout Rating ★★★★★

Preston Innovations Dura Slip Hybrid Pole Elastic is the perfect solid elastic for a variety of species including F1 and carp.

Looking for an elastic that has all the power you need to land those big carp?

Look no further than the Dura Slip Hybrid Pole Elastic from Preston Innovations!

This high-quality elastic is pre-coated with lubricating oil, making it extra durable and giving you the added benefit of a smooth release every time.

Also, its length of 3m per pack is perfect for high catch rate locations.

A solid (hybrid actually!) rubber pad that performs really well in the heat of competition!

The best rubber bar on our list? I’ll let you decide!

Elastic Reviews Purple Size 5 – 1.2mm

Blue Size 7 – 1.4mm

Pink size 9 – 1.6mm

Green Size 11 – 1.8mm

White Size 13-2mm

Red Size 15 – 2.2mm

Yellow Size 17 – 2.4mm

Orange Size 18 – 2.6mm

Watch the video now

Best Pole Elastic: Final Verdict

Pole fishing is a hobby that many people have in common, but not everyone knows the best pole lures for fishing.

Some rubber bands to consider are the type and weight of fish you are trying to catch.

If you know these two things in advance, finding the perfect elastic shouldn’t be too difficult.

We hope you enjoyed our roundup of some great options!

Thank you for reading.

Frequently Asked Questions Do you need a rubber band for a fishing rod? No, you don’t need a rubber band for a fishing rod. However, it can help keep your line from getting tangled. What is the best rubber band for pole fishing? The best elastic for pole fishing is the one that offers the most stretch and is the most durable. There are many different types of rubber bands on the market, so it’s important to do some research to find the one that’s right for you. What color is Pole Elastic? Pole Elastic typically comes in a range of colors including green, black, and brown. It’s important to choose a color that will blend in with your surroundings so that fish don’t see you. Which rubber pole do I need? The strength of the elastic will depend on the type of fish you are hoping to catch. If you’re targeting smaller fish you’ll need a weaker elastic, while if you’re hoping for larger fish you’ll need a stronger elastic. It is important to choose a rubber band that is suitable for the type of fishing you intend to do. How often should I change my rubber poles? Pole Elastic should be changed regularly depending on how often you use it. If you use your stick regularly, you should change the rubber band every few months. However, if you only use your stick occasionally, you may only need to change the elastic once a year.

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Last update on 07/27/2022 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Spectra braided fishing line, like this line from Power Pro, is lightweight, strong and slippery for less line noise and reduced friction.

What fishing line does

Fishing line connects the lure or lure to the angler’s rod and reel and is cast, cast or thrown at varying distances to present the lure or bait to the fish. Once the fish is hooked, the line is crucial to reeling in a fish.

What to look for when choosing fishing line

Monofilament vs. Thermofilament vs. Braided

Fishing line that is extruded in a single continuous filament and left untwisted is called a monofilament. It’s smooth and clear with moderate amounts of stretch. Monofilament is also available in special colors to improve visibility above the water and keep it invisible to the fish. High performance line made by thermally bonding small fibers together is called thermal filament and has a smaller diameter per pound test than monofilament. Braided lines are slightly thicker and more common for fishing larger species, e.g. Fishing for large blue and yellowfin tuna offshore.

lineweight

The strength of the fishing line is called the test and is measured in pounds. It should roughly match the weight of the species you are fishing for (e.g. use line in the 30lb test for tuna in the 30lb range). A typical line for casting for trout would be the 4 pound test line.

Consider a braided line that weighs 30 pounds or more if you’re targeting big game fish. The rule of thumb is to fish with the lightest gear possible so you don’t get tired and have more fun. When a test is required in competition, anglers must use light line to land heavy fish. But this requires experience, a desire for a long fight and, above all, solid technique. Another difference: while a normal fishing line is guaranteed to break above its rating, a tournament line must break before the rating or the records will not be honored.

Monofilament nylon fishing line, like this Andes Premium Monofilament, is cheap and popular.

Nylon, Dacron, Spectra, Dyneema

Nylon, the oldest and most common synthetic fiber for fishing lines, is made from linear polyamides and offers a good compromise between strength, stretch and abrasion resistance. Dacron, developed by DuPont in the late 1950s, is based on a long-chain polyester and represents an evolution of nylon in terms of strength, flexibility and low stretch.

Spectra and Dyneema are two modern brand names for ultra-strong polyethylene fibers used in high-tech fishing lines. It’s many times stronger than steel, more durable than polyester and so light it floats. We recommend Spectra/Dyneema for higher tensile strength at smaller diameters, which reduces the weight of the unit and increases the amount of line that can fit on the spool (e.g. ). Spectra/Dyneema also offers better abrasion resistance which prevents loss of bait or bait when fishing near snags or near the bottom where the line will snag or rub against sharp objects.

castability

When it comes to active fishing styles that require frequent casting, we recommend smooth, lightweight lines as they come off the spool more easily and allow for more accurate casts over longer distances.

line stretching

Less stretch in the fishing line results in more sensitivity to feel the fish, which is what anglers are looking for. However, in certain instances some line stretch is desirable (e.g. when trolling) as this acts as a shock absorber and can mean the difference between setting the hook in a soft mouthed fish like salmon or ripping it out.

line memory

Unlike humans and computers, less memory is better when it comes to fishing lines. Why? Memory refers to a line’s ability to retain its shape after being deformed. A line with a lot of memory “remembers” the loops that are formed when it is wound on a spool. Non-memory lines stay straight as they come off the spool, creating less friction on rings and reels for longer, smoother casts.

Examples of fishing line selection

Test Style Location Technique Species 2-4 lb mono Freshwater spinning, casting trout, small local fish 6-10 lb mono inshore, pier spinning, casting bream, flathead, salmon, larger local fish 12-20 lb mono/braid Inshore trolling, casting , Bottom Fishing Small Tuna, Salmon, Kingfish, Snapper 30-130lb Braid Offshore Trolling Marlin, Big Tuna, Sharks, Big Kingfish

Useful tips

Line loses up to a third of its strength at the knot, so we recommend measuring line generously, even if actual breaking strength is around 50 percent of nominal. We recommend using actual fishing knots to attach leaders and end tackle to the line to minimize loss of line strength in the knot area. The shock resistance of a line resists breaking when fish hit it at high speed, especially when trolling. If you’re not sure what you’re going to get, play it safe or you risk losing your catch.

For example, if you’re fishing for fast swimming Dorados in the 20lb range, use 30lb test so your line has enough strength and shock resistance (about 45lbs in this case) when the fish is hitting and taking at full throttle away with the bait. For a balanced device that is functional and comfortable to use, we recommend matching the line class to the rod and reel. A line that is too light can be difficult to cast or can break from excessive strain. Too heavy a line can break the rod.

Conclusion

Make sure the line is tested for the average weight of the target species, is able to absorb shock when the fish strikes, and has sufficient strength in the knot areas.

The most popular types of fishing lines

There are different types of fishing line, but the two most commonly used are monofilament and braid. Monofilament is made of nylon and is a long, continuous filament, while braided fishing line is made up of several super-strong, very thin strands of Kevlar-like material braided together to form a line that is essentially round in cross-section.

1. Monofilament line

Pros: Monofilament is the most popular type of fishing line and is available in a wide range of gauges and colors. Mono is cheaper than other lines, stretches to absorb shock, resists abrasion and has a consistently round cross-section which helps it stay clean on the spool. Monofilament is easy to knot but can suffer from “memory” if it loops in the shape of the spool. Mono comes in several shades, but clear and blue are popular because they disappear underwater and are very difficult for a fish to see. Of the various suitable types of saltwater fishing line, monofilament is one of the most popular.

Cons: Monofilament is not as strong as braid for a given diameter, so a higher pound monofilament takes up more room on a spool. It’s also nylon, which means it will break down over time with exposure to sunlight, so it’s important to re-spool with fresh line every year.

2. Braided fishing line

Pros: Braid is very strong for a given gauge, often twice as strong as mono, allowing you to pack more line on a spool for a given pound test. It also means it sinks faster, casts farther and trawls deeper than mono. Braid has no memory so loops and twists are not a problem making Braid one of the best spinning reel fishing lines. Braid won’t break down in sunlight so you can keep it on the spool year after year. And it doesn’t stretch at all, so you can feel every bump in the bottom and every nudge from a fish.

Disadvantages: braid is very slippery, so you have to use knots that can hold despite the low friction. The braid is so strong that it is difficult to cut – you will need to carry nail clippers or very sharp scissors. And while it comes in multiple colors, it’s not see-through like Mono. Most anglers carry a leader in their tackle and tackle and use it when fishing with braided lines to hide the line from the fish. It is also less abrasion resistant than Mono. Finally, Braid has no stretch, meaning it won’t give when a fish hits, so using less drag is a good idea, and a bit more finesse when setting the hook helps too.

3. Fluorocarbon fishing line

These are other types of fishing lines that you can use when freshwater fishing, saltwater fishing or fly fishing.

Fluorocarbon is often used as a leader material. It is completely invisible underwater and highly abrasion resistant, making it the perfect complement to the braid. There are now a few brands of fluorocarbons that are sold as the main line.

4. Wire fishing line

Wire is another hooklink material used when fishing for toothy fish like mackerel and tuna. Wire comes in single strand and braided versions. Wire is also popular for some types of trolling where getting deep depths is important. This requires specially hardened spools for the reels.

5. Fly line

Fly lines come in specific weights. These do not refer to the breaking load, but to the weight of the line, which must match the fly rod. The fly line attaches to a leader called a tippet, which comes in a variety of breaking strengths.

Fishing with a leader

One of the best fishing lines is to use a leader – a short length of fishing line that attaches to the main line on one end and to the hook or bait on the other. Leaderboards can be made of a different material than the main line, or simply be a thicker, heavier version of the main line when increased abrasion resistance is required, for example. Hooklengths allow you to improve your hook and hold fish success without having to cast and reel in an entire line of the larger, heavier material. This is especially important when using a wire leader.

The most important feature of all types of fishing line is not the different line sizes. It is the breaking strength of the line: the force that the line can absorb before it breaks. This is expressed as a pound test. So a 10 lb test fishing line should hold 10 lbs before it breaks and a 30 lb test should hold 30 and so on.

Many things can weaken a leash, including the knots you tie in it. It is important to choose a line that is strong enough for your needs within a working span. You should assume that even brand new line will offer less than 80% of its rated strength once you’ve tied a hook or bait to it.

Early fishing lines were braided natural materials like silk and therefore quite expensive, modern lines are made from synthetic materials like nylon, dacron, dyneema and fluorocarbon.

Learn about the different fishing gear and fishing gear you need to catch more fish.

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If you are just starting out in fishing, you may notice two ubiquitous types of line advertised in the market: braid or monofilament. Each line has its own advantages and disadvantages and is better suited for handling some tasks than others.

If you are a beginner, choosing the right fishing gear is crucial to a successful fishing trip. However, it can be confusing to decide what type of line to spool on your reel. Here are some tips on each type to help you make the right choice for your next fishing trip.

Understand monofilament fishing lines

Monofilament lines are threaded from just a single synthetic fiber, often nylon. They’re inexpensive, but consequently a little less durable than other types of cord and more prone to abrasion. Mono lines absorb water and weaken their tensile strength over time, meaning you may need to change lines regularly.

However, the malleability of this line also offers significant benefits. The synthetic fibers of monolines naturally have more stretch and elasticity, causing the line to become slack. This extra move is useful when your catch is ready to fight back. The last thing you want is for a big game fish to cause an abrasive line break and get away. So with that extra stretch and reach, you have time to reel in your catch.

While monofilament line has a larger diameter than braided line, it is also less visible in the water, making your bait more attractive and increasing your chances of a bite. Monofilament lines also come in a wide range of colors so you can choose the right shade for the environment and weather.

When it comes to knotting, a monofilament line is ideal for beginners. The smooth texture of the cord makes it easy to tie and hold knots. The ease of use of a mono line makes it accessible to anglers of all ages, skill levels or tying abilities. Mono lines are also less likely to break in areas such as weed, coral, or rocks.

Understanding braided fishing lines

Source: PhotoStudioPlum/Shutterstock.com

Braided fishing lines are woven from multiple synthetic fibers such as Dacron, Micro-Dyneema, or Spectron. These types of lines are dense, thin, and taut, so they offer little stretch.

Braided lines are more durable and wear-resistant than mono lines. They’re also better for deep-sea fishing because they’re thinner and heavier at the same time, cutting through the water to get to the bottom faster. While braided lines are smaller in diameter than mono lines, their opaque design makes it easier for fish to spot them underwater.

Due to their structure, they are usually more expensive than monofilament lines; However, the sturdiness means you won’t have to replace the cord as often. For beginners, knotting braided line can take some getting used to. Once you get the hang of it, various fishing knots are ideal for use with braided line, which offers excellent strength.

However, this robustness is not always an advantage in every scenario. While the taut pressure of braid lines is useful for tiring out smaller game, their lack of stretch makes them far less ideal for fighting larger game like tuna or swordfish. If you’re trying to catch a bite in excess of 600-1,000 pounds, their strength can easily snap the line, damaging both the rig and the fish.

This rigidity becomes especially problematic when you only intend to catch and release your fish. Braided lines have a greater risk of injuring the fish with a larger hook wound than monofilament line.

The tension in the braided line allows you to feel the pull of the fish, allowing you to make more responsible decisions when it comes to reeling in your catch. However, this same quality makes it a challenge for the novice or young angler who may not be able to control the fish’s powerful movement.

Which one should you choose?

Ultimately, line choice is a matter of personal preference. When it comes to choosing between braided line and mono line, what might be valuable advantages for some anglers may be disadvantages for others.

Perhaps you prefer the added stretch of a monoline, or you don’t like the hassle of fighting such a fight with specific catches and having to replace those lines so frequently. Conversely, you may prefer the tautness of a braided line, but you may not like such a weighty, break-prone pull on larger game.

If you are an inexperienced angler, the simplicity and accessibility of mono lines can be beneficial for starting anything other than deep water fishing. However, for experienced anglers, braided line offers a responsiveness that can increase your chances of landing a fish and is widely considered the best line for spinning reels.

A fine line

The line you choose will depend on your experience, fishing location and prey. Explore our blog series for more fishing and fishing clothing information to help you get the most out of your outdoor fishing adventures.

Dean Barlow shows you how to fish with the latest Drennan Carp Pole Rigs.

Drennan Carp Pole Rigs are specifically designed to help you catch quality fish in commercial fisheries. These hand tied rigs are exceptionally constructed with high quality components. There are four styles in the range (from Carp 1 to Carp 4) to cover everything from edge fishing to open water. I’ve come to Rolfs Lake in Oxfordshire to show you how to get the most out of these brilliant rigs!

Step 1 – Rig selection

I have chosen a Carp 2 Pole Rig which is ideal for open water and depths of around 4ft and over. It features a Carp 2 Pole float that has a fairly long design with a diamond shaped body that offers a lot of stability. It also features a reasonable diameter hollow banded tip that shows bites very well.

The fish today should be active and well fed, so fishing at a distance of five to seven meters is perfect. I’m assuming the depth ahead is about 6ft (2m) and with little wind forecast I went with a 0.4g rig. With an easier pose you tend to get more bites. However, if it were windier or the stylus deeper, I would have no hesitation in switching to a larger 0.6g or 0.8g version.

I’m targeting big carp from 6lb to 10lb+ so I want a strong and reliable rig. The Carp 2 Pole Rig is tied to a 0.20mm (6.9lb) main line. Underneath is a 15cm length of 0.18mm (6lb) hooklink tied to a size 14 wide gape carp hook. This is strong and sturdy gear and man enough for the fish I’m hoping to catch!

Step 2 – Rig Functions

I have read the additional information on the back and removed the pole rig from its protective packaging. All the details of the rig are conveniently printed on the rod winch for easy reference. It’s also worth noting that the pole winch itself is made out of a super tough material and not the brittle plastic like most other winches.

Step 3 – Remove the Pole Winder Anchor

The rig is attached to the winch with a soft stretch anchor. Remove these and set them aside. After the session you can reuse the anchor to help you put the pole rig back on the winch. Yes, you can use a carp pole rig more than once!

Step 4 – Attach the rig

Attach the rig to your pole top kit using your choice of flexible connector. I prefer to use a neat Drennan Dacron Connector tied to the end of its elastic. Alternatively, you can use a bungee connector or similar connection method.

To attach the rig to a Dacron Connector, simply pull the main line through the loop to form a sliding lasso. This can then be tightened over the end of the connector and should hold the rig securely in place.

Video explains the use of Dacron Connectors in detail. TOP TIP: Here the use of Dacron connectors is explained in more detail.

Step 5 – Inspect the rig

With the rig now attached and untangled, you can check that everything is ok. Carp pole rigs are expertly hand tied in Drennan’s own factories to strict standards, but it’s still good practice to check to see if it has been accidentally damaged in any way.

When you store a rig on a pole winder, the line always gets a little kinked. This is easily smoothed out by gently sliding the line between two dampened fingertips.

Step 6 – Attach a plumb bob

It’s important to explore depth to get the most out of your session. It allows you to get the exact depth and also locate any underwater features like shelves and plateaus. A standard cork or foam based solder of around 20g to 30g should be ideal for this task.

Step 7 – Installing the depth

With the plumb bob attached, send the pole to your chosen spot and lower it to the ground. You should be able to feel the plumb line hitting the bottom and see if the float is too deep or too deep. Don’t forget to scan the immediate area, lowering the perpendicular in various places, a little to the left and right, and a little further out and closer in. This also helps ensure there are no hidden obstructions or snags on the pegs.

TOP TIP: While this isn’t always possible, try to find a fairly flat and level bottom to fish with. That should be much more comfortable than fishing on a slope.

Step 8 – Adjust Depth

The float has been set about 30cm too low, so carefully slide the float down that amount, being careful not to accidentally kink the rig.

TOP TIP: Try to wet the float before pushing it up or down the line to reduce friction.

Step 9 – Fine tune the depth

After a bit of fine tuning I’m now happy with the depth I set the rig to. Pole fishing allows you to present a hookbait extremely accurately on or off the bottom, but a good starting depth is when the hookbait is just touching the bottom.

A good rule of thumb is to set the depth so that the entire tip of the swimmer and a fraction of the pole swimmer’s body are visible above the water. This will help ensure your hookbait is about 5cm on the bottom. This amount allows you to quickly identify and respond to bites. It also ensures your hookbait stays on the bottom despite any bumps, compensating for any movement caused by wind and turbulence.

Keep in mind that this is just the starting depth and can be easily adjusted. For example, if it’s very windy, increasing the depth of the rig can help keep the hookbait in place. This can be up to 12 inches (30 cm) over-deep if required.

TOP TIP: After piping, mark the depth on the side of your top kit with correction fluid or a crayon. This gives you a useful reference point to return to if you want to try deeper or shallower.

Step 10 – Trimming the Rig

With the depth now set, it’s time to trim the rig to a more manageable length. The Carp 2 Pole Rig is tied to a 3.5m cord. This gives you enough line to comfortably swim depths of up to 3m (10ft). If you swim shallower, we recommend cutting the length of the line above the swimmer. If you have too much line over the float, the wind can catch it more easily, throwing the float off course and affecting presentation.

Step 11 – Done and Done

The actual amount of line you have from the pole tip to the pole float may vary depending on conditions, but around 18 inches (45 cm) is a good starting distance. On windy days you can increase this up to 1m. On very calm days, you can try going even shorter to help you hit fast bites.

TOP TIP: Always consider changing weather conditions. It’s better to start with a little extra line above your float.

Tip 12 – Check the shot

The Carp 2 Pole Rig has a versatile shotting pattern consisting of a mass of #9 shot about 18 inches from the hook and two #9 drops spaced between the mass and the hook. This is an ideal starting arrangement, but each shot can be gently slid up or down the line as needed. For example, you could try bunching the entire shot much closer to the hook for an ultra-positive setup. Alternatively, place the shot out for a slower sinking hookbait. The permutations are endless!

Step 13 – Checking the tip

Before you attach a hookbait and start fishing, spend a few extra seconds to make sure the float is properly seated in the water. Carp 2 pole rigs are initially shot with most of the tip visible above the surface. You may want to refine this further to make the rig even more sensitive.

A location’s surface tension can also change depending on conditions and this can also affect the amount of spike visible above the water. Some locations can suffer from a greasy surface film and this can also make a swimmer’s tip sit a little prouder on the water.

Step 14 – Trim shot

I plan on fishing standard hookbaits like corn, pellets and maggots up close today. Since the conditions are good, I want to increase the sensitivity of the rig very slightly. I do this by adding a single #12 shot to the rig. This is carefully pinched with a pair of shotgun pliers just above the main mass. These adjustment shots are commonly referred to as “trimming shots”. One or more trim strokes can help refine a rig to fit exactly how you want it for the day.

Step 15 – Ready to fish!

Now that the depth is set, the rig trimmed appropriately, and the pose tip shot perfectly, we’re good to go!

The session

It’s time to get some bait out and start fishing!

The Bait Menu

My colorful side tray has several different tubs with enough bait for a great day of fishing.

feed items

To try to keep the fish on the bottom I chose two baits to feed; Sweet corn and hard 8mm pellets. Both make a pleasant sound on the water to attract the fish, but are also heavy enough to sink to the bottom quickly without being caught by smaller pesky species on the way down.

hookbait

I have several options for hookbait. A soft expander hook is ideal when small fish aren’t too much of a bother. Candycorn is more selective when you need to pick out better fish. Double candy corn is even more selective. A pile of dead red maggots makes for a contrasting hookbait that is soft yet stays on the hook very well.

Early action!

Little and often is always the best policy when unsure how to feed during the day. I’m only fishing twenty or seven yards out today, which is a distance I can comfortably cast by hand. I start by tossing just eight pellets and the same amount of corn around the float. I will then repeat this every few minutes until I start catching.

Feeding small amounts to start with gives you a better chance of hooking a good fish faster. That theory worked beautifully today. Just six minutes into the session my carp bungee is already being stretched by an angry carp!

First fish of the day

This fish came to a 6mm expander pellet and immediately after dripping some extra food. A great start and hopefully a sign of more action!

TOP TIP: Try hand-feeding, then immediately raise the rig completely out of the water and lower it back into the pool. This helps mimic the loose feed and also reduces misses caused by fish darting into the swimming area.

More action

A few roaches and skimmers have moved in, so it’s time to try some candy corn on the hook. This quickly proved to be the winning hookbait of the day, fished over corn and 8mm pellet feed.

double trouble

I like to keep experimenting and rarely stick to the same feeding pattern throughout a session. Doubling the amount of feed and double the candy corn hookbait result in this quality fish.

Best fish of the day

This huge common carp must have weighed close to 18lbs but posed no problem for a Carp 2 Pole Rig!

And the smallest fish!

A quick try with maggots on the hook yielded a true mix of species of all sizes, topped by this “specimen” gudgeon!

What a day!

The fruits of a brilliant day at Rolfs Lake – all caught with the excellent Drennan Carp Pole Rigs. It’s now time for you to get out there and try them for yourself!

How to Set Up a Drop Shot Rig by Kai Tham

For many years, as far back as I can remember, saltwater fishermen set up their bottom fishing rigs. The drop shot rig is similar but more subtle. This rig is also suitable for deep water bottom fishing. It is most effective in deep water but can be used from three feet of water down to depths of 100 feet or more.

Depending on the depth, the distance from the hook to the weight must be adjusted. For shallower water, placing the hook three to six inches above the weight is recommended. For deeper water, the hook can be adjusted to no more than a foot and a half due to the nine inch leverage from the weight. Also, the weight needs to be heavier for deeper water as there can be undercurrents.

Here are the tackles needed to set up a drop shot rig – either an octopus hook or a drop shot hook and end lead. In this photo it is a size 8 Gamakatsu Octopus hook and a 3/32 oz tungsten weight.

Image #1: These are the tackles (hook, sinker, hawg shad) required to rig a drop shot.

First, the size of the hook depends on the size of your lure. Based on common sense, the gap size of the hook should be proportional to the width or girth of your lure to allow the sharp end of the hook to protrude to set the hook in the fish’s mouth.

Second, the weight of your lead should be heavy enough (but not too heavy) to touch the bottom of the lake or body of water you are fishing.

Third, orient the eyelet of your hook so that the sharp end of your hook is facing up, so you can thread your line through the eyelet of your hook twice, forming a loop with the end of your line exceeding the length you want to keep between hook and board as shown in figure 1 in diagram below.

Fourth, tie a palomar knot over the hook and thread the end of the line down through the eyelet of the hook, with the sharp end of the hook pointing up. Secure the leash firmly with a drop of your saliva over the knot and pull firmly on both ends of the leash without breaking it. See Figure 2 to 5 in the diagram.

Finally, secure your plumb bob at the end of the line with a simple knot or pull it tight to the plumb bob’s clip, if available.

Image #2: Thread the fishing line through the eye of the hook.

Pic #3: Thread the end of the fishing line back through the eye of the hook so that two lines pass through the hook.

Image #4: To make a palomar knot, hold both ends and make a simple loop

Image #5: To continue with the Palomar knot, insert the hook into the loop.

Image #6: As you pull on both ends to tighten them, wet the “bundle” of linen with your saliva before tightening it into a knot. Then thread the end of the line back onto the top of the hook eye and pull tight.

Image #7: Pull both ends of the line to tighten the knot.

Image #8: Attach a tungsten weight to the end of the string.

Pic #9: Here is a ready to use drop shot rig.

Image #10: Shows a full drop shot rig with a Hawg Shad.

Here’s a video with John Hutchins showing how to set up a drop shot rig:

#Fishbelly #dropshot #dropshotrig #lurefishing

Hollow elastics have now become the choice of most anglers in 90% of commercial fishing situations, their increased stretch factor and durability will outperform solid elastics and ultimately net more fish!

Of course there are now dozens of different companies making these elastics and most are of high quality but for my own fishing MAP’s Twin Core range is now my only choice! Yes, I’m lucky enough to work for MAP, but if I didn’t, I’d still be using this stuff; it gives me more confidence in my rubber band than ever before!

Here’s a little rundown of the rubber bands and the situations in which they work best for me…

Orange 3-6 – The latest addition to the range and one I’m really looking forward to. For the depths of winter I will be using these for my F1 fishing where every fish you hook needs to be landed. Mega soft allowing you to use hook lengths of 0.08mm and in some cases even less but you can still land those all important bonus fish.

Yellow 5-8 – This is my elastic Spring F1 when the fish are just starting to pull a little, a really soft elastic that allows me to fish hook lengths from 0.08mm – 0.12mm and small hooks without that fractures occur. During the summer months I incorporate this into my Schalla F1 kits for all my short, shallow rods. A short length of this elastic allows me to net fish in the quickest way possible without pulling the hook.

Pink 6-9 – Without a doubt the best rubber band in the world! I would be really lost without this stuff. It’s my go-to choice for all my summer F1 anglers and perfect for situations where you’re likely to catch a little of everything. Nice and soft but still strong enough to land any bigger fish quickly. I choose this elastic for hook lengths of 0.12mm – 0.14mm.

White 6-10 – Very similar to the pink Twin Core, just with a little more power. I use this elastic for all my regular summer carp fishing, I fish a lot of locations with big stock of small 2-5lb carp and the white suits it perfectly. It’s also my choice when fishing shallow for larger carp as it allows the fish to run without the risk of the hook snapping.

Green 10-14 – Things are getting serious here! Green is my choice when fishing for big carp in open water as it still has plenty of stretch but also plenty of power. I also love this elastic when edge fishing as it allows the fish to exit the hook smoothly without scaring other fish in the swimming area. My hook lengths for this elastic are generally 0.15mm – 0.18mm.

Black 12-16 – This is pretty much as heavy as I go for general fishing situations, the black is great for landing those few lumps in the last few minutes of a match, it’s a really strong elastic that charges up quickly to take those to get Fish into the net as soon as possible. I also like to use this elastic when fishing for barbel at the Weston Pools fishery to keep them from diving for snags near banks or under the nets!

Dark Blue 14-18 – I only wear 2 top kits with this elastic to be honest it scares me to death! It only comes out of the hold for snag pit pegs where the fish cannot be given a toll. There is no space for hooklengths with this material and rigs of 0.22mm and larger are required.

Purple 16-20 – As a predominantly F1 angler I find this stuff best saved for bungee jumping off bridges! While I’m not brave enough to use this myself, it’s perfect for any 20lb beasts lurking in some southern locations or hitting and holding situations where an edge bar is required. I actually replace all my catapult rubber bands with this stuff!

A Beginner’s Guide – How to Use Pole Elastic

This entry was posted on November 16, 2020 by Anna Cooper

Pole elastic and pole elastics in general are confusing areas of fishing. You can always go to a tackle shop or contact the AD team with your tackle requests. As a novice angler you will see countless bungs, puller kits, winder bungs, bushes and other exotic sounding components when it comes to pole fishing, but fear not, things will become a lot clearer after you read our guide to everything , which is elastic.

What is Pole Elastic?

Used in match and coarse fishing, the flexible pole gives anglers flexibility in hooking fish depending on rating, type and technique used. Some anglers like to double up on rubber bands, others change the ratings. It’s important to consider the time of year and the fish you are targeting when choosing the right one for you.

Types of elastic fishing rods

There are a few types of bar gummies to look out for, the main difference being that they are solid and hollow.

Solid elastic

Light and heavy solid rubber bands are cheap to come by, but may not last as long as the more expensive hollow rubber bands.

Solid Elastic – Light: Rated between No3 and No8, Light Solid Elastics are perfect for natural waters for smaller fish like roach and skimmers. No8 Elastic used to be the heaviest you could buy, but now you can get more than double the reviews.

Rated between #3 and #8, light weight firm elastics are perfect for natural waters for smaller fish like roach and skimmers. No8 Elastic used to be the heaviest you could buy, but now you can get more than double the reviews. Solid Elastic – Heavy: Heavy Solid Elastic ranges in strength from #8 to #20 and is quickly “driven” to tame larger fish like carp and chub. It’s a good elastic for fishing against obstacles, for example when targeting channel chub or big carp.

Hollow elastic

Hollow rubber has more stretch than solid rubber and is much softer for the same strength. It also comes in a wider range of ratings, meaning one rubber band can have you covered for a variety of situations. Hollow rubbers are usually of better quality than solid rubbers and therefore last longer.

Hollow Rubber – Lightweight: Rated 1-5. Great for mixed fish, it’s stretchy enough to let you land small fish, but if you hook into a big fish all is not lost.

Rated 1-5. Great for mixed fish, it’s stretchy enough to let you land small fish, but if you hook into a big fish all is not lost. Hollow Rubber – Medium: Rating 6-12. Perfect for general commercial use when fishing for F1s and carp.

Rated 6-12. Perfect for general commercial use when fishing for F1s and . Hollow Rubber – Large: Rated 12+. Designed to tame big fish it is ideal for edge fishing on commercial spots and rivers when targeting chub and barbel. A really stretchy rubber band that will soon sap the strength of a big fish.

What are winder bungs?

Winder Bungs are designed for lightweight elastic and are great for small sizes of lightweight, firm elastic as you can store some elastic on the winding portion so you can loosen or add tension. You can also cut off some of the elastic from the connector end as it wears out, and then unwrap it from the winder to re-tension it properly.

3 ways to connect Pole Elastic

1) Dacron: Lasso your rig onto a Dacron connector and the Dacron will help keep your line off your pole tip meaning you avoid tangling.

2) Crow’s Foot: Here you simply tie a loop in the elastic, meaning it’s very easy to set up. It’s very direct – to just lasso it to your rig.

3) Plastic Connectors: A popular choice, simple and easy to use.

How to adjust the fishing rod elastic

In this part of our beginner’s guide, we show each step to make your fishing rod elastic. If you find it easier, you can also check out the same steps in the QuickBite video below.

Step-by-step guide to elasticizing a fishing rod

This guide was originally seen in:

Step 1: Mount the bushing. Match the bush size to your elastic and always use a slightly larger one. The bushing acts as a buffer between your bar and the elastic.

Step 2: Align the bushing to the rod and cut where they are the same diameter. Always play it safe and cut a little at a time.

Step 3: Using a sharp, thin hacksaw blade, cut back your rod and saw in one direction to make it smooth.

Step 4: Sand with fine sandpaper.

Step 5: Insert your bush and add a dab of super glue if you want a little extra security.

Step 6: Insert your bung into the bottom of the pole; Again cut a little at a time until it fits.

Step 7: Cut with scissors for a perfect fit.

Step 8: The bush should be sticking out of the end of the pole like this.

Step 9: Run your rod threader through your rod.

Step 10: Slide your elastic through the eyelet of the threader and then pull it through the bar.

Step 11: Pull the rubber band through the puller.

Step 12: Slide a bead onto the elastic.

Step 13: Tie a loop in the elastic and cut off the loose ends; The knot prevents everything from pulling through.

Step 14: At the top of the bar, slide a connector onto your elastic, in this case a Dacron.

Step 15: Tie a knot in your elastic and release your connector up against the knot, then push the bead back down.

Step 16: Almost done! Just before you go fishing make sure you pull a fair amount of elastic out of your rod to soften it; If it sags, take off some more elastic at the bottom.

There you have it! Elastic cane in 16 easy steps! We hope you found this guide useful. If you want to read more of our beginner’s guides, read the AD blog or watch a how-to tutorial on ADTV. Follow our social media for updates.

The Complete Guide to Coarse Fishing

Get your fishing license

You MUST have a fishing license from the Environment Agency to fish freshwater fish in England, Wales and Scotland.

The only exception to this rule is if you are 13 years of age or younger. Senior and junior anglers can purchase a fishing license at a discounted rate.

For coarse fishing you need the trout, coarse fish and eel license from the environmental agencies.

Fishing without the proper license can result in a hefty fine and confiscation of your gear.

This fishing license is available for 1 day (£6), 8 days (£12) or 12 months (£30). The license entitles you to fish with up to two fishing rods for white fish. If you want to use a third coarse fishing rod, you need to purchase a special 3-rod license.

You can purchase your rod license from the government website, post offices or by calling environmental agencies.

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fishing season

Rivers and certain canal sections are closed for three months during the “closed season”.

Most commercial fisheries will likely remain open during the river closures.

The closed season begins on March 15th and lasts until July 15th.

This fishing ban was first introduced under the Freshwater Fisheries Act 1878 to allow the fish to spawn and reproduce in ‘peace and quiet’.

The closed season only restricts fishing in the river and some sections of the canal.

A list of the affected canal sections can be found here.

The Environment Agency and dedicated volunteer bailiffs will carry out regular checks to ensure the fish are able to spawn undisturbed.

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Coarse fishing explained

Coarse fishing is the most popular type of fishing in the UK. This style of fishing is for sport and pleasure rather than food, using a catch-and-release approach.

Coarse fishing is easily accessible to most of the UK population. There are likely to be several quality tackle shops and well stocked fisheries in your area.

For absolute beginners, most tackle shop owners will be more than happy to give you some useful pointers. Getfishing.org.uk has fantastic fishing courses across the country, giving you and your family a great place to start.

There is little scientific difference between coarse fish and wild fish such as salmon, trout and arguably grayling. The only noticeable difference is that whitefish typically prefer warmer and calmer environments.

Fishing was originally reserved for the pleasure of the upper class and nobility. These privileged anglers only targeted salmon fish, which were the most desirable to eat.

There is a wonderful variety of big fish to catch in the UK. Here is a list of the most desirable types;

– Barbel

– bream

– carp

– Catfish

– chub

– dace

– eel

– Grayling

– Gudgeon

– perch

– pike

– Cockroach

– Rudd

– Ruff

– Tench

– Walleye

All of the above fish require different approaches and tactics to catch the different species.

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Success in coarse fishing

Any angler will tell you that it’s easy to get carried away at the tackle shops, but you don’t have to spend a fortune to outfit yourself with all the gear you’ll need to land your first fish.

Ask more experienced anglers for advice and guidance on which tackle to buy. The vast majority of anglers will be happy to help you.

Most anglers will be happy to help another angler and may even offer you their spare gear to rent or buy at a much lower price than usual.

It’s also worth scouring eBay and Facebook Marketplace for “job lot” money snatching.

There are many inexpensive baits that are guaranteed to catch fish. The most successful of these are candy corn, bread, luncheon meat and pepperami.

Here we have compiled a list of the basic fishing tackle you will need to net your first fish;

– Rod and Reel – You won’t get very far without a fishing rod and a well-balanced reel.

– Line – We recommend using fishing line with a breaking strength of between 8-10 lbs.

– Swimmers – Loaded floats are perfectly weighted, however regular fish swimmers require split shot weights to balance them in the water.

– Split Shot Weights – Look for the pack that offers the widest range of sizes for increased accuracy.

– Hook – We recommend using a fishing hook size between 10-14. Using hooks that are pre-tied with a loop at the end may be easiest in the beginning.

– Plumb – This weight can be attached to your hook to measure the depth of the lake when setting up your swim position.

– Landing Net – This makes it much easier and safer to land larger fish.

– Unhooking mat – protects the fish when unhooking. The mat should be wet to protect the fish slime and the hard bottom itself.

– Degorger – This helps to easily release fish with those hard to reach hook holds.

– Scale – Measure the weight of fish for match fishing or just for your pride!

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Fun fishing with floats

Float fishing is the easiest and most effective tactic for beginners.

It’s important to set up your fish care and safety gear first. Plan for success by making sure your landing net is ready to go, with a wet unhooking mat and a degorger within easy reach.

A fishing rod rest makes life a lot easier, but it’s not essential.

Here is a step by step guide explaining how to set up your fishing rod;

1. Assemble the fishing rod and make sure the eyes are aligned.

2. Open the bail on your reel and thread the line through the eyelets on your fishing rod.

3. Gently slip the fishing line through the eye of your chosen swimmer.

4. Loaded floats can be restrained with rubber float stops or a small elastic band threaded through the cord and float.

5. Regular fishing floats can be attached with split shot weights.

6. If fishing with a regular float, add the split shot weights until the tip of the float is upright just above the water surface.

7. Attach your hook to the main line. We recommend using a loop to loop knot and pre-tied hooklinks.

8. Attach the plumb line to your hook and measure the depth of the lake.

9. Adjust the distance between your float and hook until the tip of the float sits nice and just below the surface of the lake.

10. Replace the solder with an irresistible, tasty bait and you’re good to go.

Remember to bait the area with accuracy. A small and frequent approximation works well. The most important rule of fishing is to find the fish!

Tangles in your fishing line are part of the fun of learning to fish. You may need to re-spool your reel with fresh line after a few disastrous tangles, but that’s all part of the learning process.

Here is a useful video on tying a loop knot.

Here is a useful video on tying a hook with a regular eyelet.

Perch fishing pro Carl Jocumsen is an expert when it comes to the best types of mono, braid and fluorocarbon fishing lines and how to use each one

Understanding the best time and place to use braided vs mono vs fluorocarbon fishing line – or a combination – can be a difficult decision as there are so many different types available.

This is a common question and sometimes choosing when and where to use these different types of best fishing line can be confusing. So let’s break down each one with their main pros and cons to make the decision-making process a little bit easier.

In this guide we cover the best situations for using braided, fluorocarbon and monofilament line as well as some general information on the best types of hooklink line to upgrade that will surely help you wherever you fish. After reading this you will have a good understanding of when to use which type of line along with their strengths and weaknesses and how to use them on your own fishing wherever you cast.

If you want to know more, read our expert guide to choosing fishing line.

When to use braided fishing line

Braid is great for bass fishing close to dense cover (Image credit: Carl Jocumsen)

Let’s start with straight braided line – meaning the braid is tied directly to the hook, bait or plumb line. The benefit of braiding all the way is the feel, sensitivity and strength. That’s because the braid has no stretch and is made from ultra-strong, high-tech materials that are very thin for their breaking strength – often Dyneema or Kevlar-like strands woven together.

The main techniques in bass or freshwater fishing with braided line are hitting and hitting heavy cover such as grass or lily pads, frog fishing and floating a jig. When fishing in thick cover, grass and mats the braid gets through the grass and cuts through debris better when a perch is hooked. This way you have direct contact with the bait, recognize bites faster, set the hook better and get the fish out more easily. Anglers fishing for carp and catfish in similar conditions often opt for braided main lines as well.

Other advantages of the braid are its small diameter which allows you to fit a lot of line on the spool and because of this thinness you can choose a main line with a higher breaking strength compared to the mono main line which is much thicker. It is also very supple and casts long distances easily. For these reasons, it’s a popular choice of mainline for saltwater anglers – surf casters, deep sea fishermen, big game hunters and so on – who need to keep a lot of line on a spool.

The downsides are that it can be difficult for a beginner to deal with a slight tangle tendency and the fish can see it, so it’s not good in open, clear water situations. Tying in a fluorocarbon hooklink – sometimes referred to as a top shot – can help with this, and we’ll get to that later.

When to Use Fluorocarbon Fishing Line?

Fluorocarbon lines have some useful properties for anglers who value visibility and stretch (Image credit: Carl Jocumsen)

Fluorocarbon is on the opposite end of the braid when it comes to visibility and stretch – we use this for the stretch that helps absorb the power of the cast and hooked fish and allows the lure to maximize its action in open water. The most popular techniques with fluorocarbon are bass or freshwater fishing with crankbaits, jerkbaits, chatterbaits, jigs and swimbaits – the list goes on.

Another great benefit of fluorocarbon is that it is basically invisible in the water, which helps to get more bites from pressured fish in clear water of all species. That’s because the fluorocarbon is made of a material that has the same light refraction properties as water, making it much more difficult for the fish to detect.

It’s a good line when you need low visibility and a certain amount of stretch – this can apply to any fishing situation. When targeting fish in clear water, a fluorocarbon hooklink is a great idea to reduce visibility and increase hookups. This can apply to carp, catfish, trout, saltwater species, etc.

When to Use Monofilament Fishing Line?

Mono is the original line, used longer than most but faded to few techniques in bass fishing but still has many uses in a more general context.

Mono has a lot of stretch – sometimes almost too much – and that’s why it’s not that popular these days. It’s also usually colored which means fish can see in clear water and prevent them from hitting your lure or bait, but it can take a lot of abrasion compared to braids.

Some anglers love mono for topwater bass fishing as it floats and helps hold your topwater up and give the right action. It’s also good for spinnerbaits and chatterbaits where you want the stretch to allow them to take the bait, get the hook and not put too much pressure on your bait.

Bait fishing for other freshwater species such as carp, trout and catfish are other situations where a mono main line is a good option. It’s a solid all-rounder, cheap and easy to tie, but thicker than a braid.

In general mono lines are good when you need a lot of abrasion resistance, stretch or elasticity in the setup no matter where you fish. Anglers who fish a lot with light lines use mono trunk lines – they are inexpensive and easy to use even for a beginner.

When to use a fluorocarbon leader

Combinations of a braided main line and a fluorocarbon leader or top shot (a piece of fluorocarbon attached to the end of the braid) have become one of the most popular setups among anglers. This gives you the best of both worlds; You get the feel and sensitivity of a non-stretch braided main line, plus the invisibility and stretch of the fluorocarbon leader on the business end. It also casts well when the braid forms most of the main line.

There is a wide range of perch and general fishing techniques used with this setup and it is most commonly seen on light line spinners. Some techniques include drop shot, shakyhead, small swimbaits, crazy rigs and on baitcaster setups flipping, topwater and weedless swimbaits. There are many other saltwater and freshwater uses as well.

For general fishing, a fluorocarbon hooklink is a great option when you need the benefits of braid and fluorocarbon together without the downsides of both. It’s a great setup for most types of fishing, freshwater or saltwater, and many experienced anglers like this combination for cautious fish.

Choosing the right leader knot for fluorocarbon or mono braid lines

Tying the mono- or fluorocarbon-to-braid leader knot is the hardest part of setting up. We have been tying a knot called the FG knot for over 15 years. It’s the strongest knot out there, but it can be tricky to tie.

But there’s a wide range of easy-to-tie knots – check out the back-to-back Uni knot or the Crazy Alberto knot – and the best way to learn it is through online tutorial at home. That way you can keep watching each part until you get it right. So we recommend learning this way and eventually tying the FG knot or Crazy Alberto if you feel confident about doing it.

A good tip with the Crazy Alberto knot is to trim the mono tag end tightly at the top wraps of the knot to prevent the braid from snagging as it exits the reel and becoming tangled during the cast. This is a common problem with braided main lines and inexperienced users. Learning proper line management and spooling reels from a reliable professional at a tackle shop will help avoid these braided mainline problems.

Also try a supplement to Crazy Alberto called Rizzuto Finish. This is just a small multiple wrap overhand knot that sits in front of the knot and smooths its passage as it flies through the rod rings.

How to choose the best leader length for your fishing line

Leader lengths all vary depending on what you are targeting. In super clear water with light line on the spinning tackle we like 20ft / 6m leaders. This keeps your braid as far away from the fish as possible, gives you the perfect amount of stretch to keep fish attached to it and allows you to re-tie your bait many times before having to tie a new hooklink.

At the other end of the scale, on a heavier mesh baitcaster combo, we tie a short 1/4 ft hooklink and keep the knot off the tip of the rod. This gives you a short leader that will help produce more bites and give you some stretch to keep the fish going. The only time we tie mono to a braid for a hooklink when bass fishing is for top water – fluorocarbon sinks and normally mono floats so using the mono for top water bass fishing will give your lure the perfect action it needs.

Outside of freshwater fishing, however, a longer hooklength is almost essential for some forms of saltwater fishing. Surfcasting, big game and shark fishing for example. They rely on the toughness of the mono to hit a powerful cast or a big fish, and it’s not uncommon to run 100 feet / 30.5 m or more of a heavy 100+ pound mono when targeting big ones sharks or tuna. Surfcasters often use 10-15ft / 3-4.5m mono 20-80lb to absorb the abrasion and power of casting a large sinker and rig.

This section will give you an idea of ​​the types of hooklengths we use when fishing for bass and the same general principles apply to other styles of fishing. A mono hooklink is useful when abrasion resistance is important but visibility is not an issue, but fluorocarbon as a hooklink material has obvious advantages over mono in a number of ways, the main reason being its lack of visibility.

We hope this guide will help you decide between braided, mono and fluorocarbon line and which will best suit your fishing tackle. The principles we’ve talked about in terms of the distinguishing features of each type can be applied to any fishing situation, so find out what you’re dealing with and rig accordingly.

Good luck out there and happy fishing.

While fluorocarbon hooklink and hooklink materials are no longer a new discovery on the fishing scene, many of us are still unsure of the difference between newer fluorocarbon and traditional nylon monofilaments. If you fall into this category, read on and we’ll try to clear up the differences between the two before stocking up on hooklink spools for the upcoming season.

First, don’t be fooled by the significantly higher price of fluorocarbon materials compared to monofilaments. Many anglers turn to fluorocarbon with the belief that because it is more expensive it is a superior line choice. While there are many superior grades of fluorocarbon, both fluorocarbon and monofilament have their place depending on the situation. The higher price of fluorocarbon is as much due to the manufacturing process as it is to the “fish value”. When comparing hooklengths and hooklength materials there are a few characteristics that are of paramount importance – read on.

sight range

The visibility, or rather the “invisibility” of fluorocarbon line is quite possibly fluorocarbon’s best selling point compared to standard nylon monofilament line. Fluorocarbon’s index of refraction is very similar to that of freshwater (much more so than monofilament). In other words, when placed in water, it is less visible than monofilament.

Unconvinced? You can see for yourself. Take equal diameter strands of fluorocarbon and monofilament and dip them in a glass of water. Notice the difference in the transparency of the materials in water.

Strength

When it comes to strength, several dimensions must be considered. In the short term, fluorocarbon is a much harder material than monofilament. This results in greater abrasion resistance, useful in situations such as nymphing or fishing around heavy structures. Also, most fluorocarbon line is thinner in diameter than monofilament line of the same breaking strength. However, this is not always the case from company to company.

Fluorocarbon is also impermeable to water, so it doesn’t absorb water throughout the day’s fishing. This doesn’t seem like a big deal, but most don’t realize how much water nylon monofilament actually absorbs throughout the day. Over time, this will cause the monofilament to weaken.

In contrast to monofilament, fluorocarbon is also extremely resistant to weather influences in the long term. overtime, U.V. Radiation, rain and humidity, as well as extreme temperatures (both hot and cold) can cause monofilaments to break and lose strength. Fluorocarbon is much more resistant to these conditions over time. For most of us, these conditions are the norm during a day’s fishing. This is worth considering before pulling out that dusty hooklink spool you bought on sale two years ago.

With this in mind: Due to the fact that fluorocarbon is not very easily degradable, please be careful when disposing of it. Any pieces that are cut off and thrown into the river stay there for a very, very long time.

density

For you trout fishermen out there, the density of your hooklink material is actually very important. Fluorocarbon is actually denser than water. In other words, it’s going down. This is great when dredging the bottom with nymphs or stripping streamers. However, if there are dead drift or skate flies lying on the surface, that’s the last thing you want. Nylon monofilament, on the other hand, actually floats in water. When fishing is dry especially in very small sizes, monofilament is a clear winner here.

stretch

Most anglers know that monofilament is a relatively “stretchable” material. Simply grab both ends of your hooklink and pull; You will see how it expands. While a certain amount of stretch is beneficial in absorbing the shock of playing a fish, less stretch results in greater sensitivity for detecting those subtle takes. Fluorocarbon is said to have less elongation than most nylon monofilaments, but there has been some debate between different manufacturers.

knotability

Often overlooked by anglers when choosing a hooklink or hooklink material, knotability is very important. The knot is always the weakest link in your setup, so it’s important to choose a material that ties well.

Nylon monofilament is far superior here as it is more pliable than fluorocarbon. For this reason, nylon monofilament is often the choice when tying big game leaders that require extremely large diameter lines. Due to the stiffness of fluorocarbon, knots are not always easy to set and must be manipulated to be just right. Take your time when tying knots in fluorocarbon materials and make sure the knots are properly seated to avoid slipping or knot breaking.

summary

While fluorocarbon appears to have many advantages over traditional monofilaments, there are certain situations where the added expense is not necessary. Evaluate which situations suit you best and buy accordingly. It is also important to mention that not all materials are created equal. Fluorocarbon or monofilament often varies widely between competing manufacturers.

More detailed gear posts

Let’s cut through the BS and see the real difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon. These types of fishing lines are not the same, nor is one better than the other. They are both unique and a good angler uses their uniqueness to excel in different scenarios. Difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon Monofilament and fluorocarbon look the same, right? They’re both somewhat transparent, with a smooth texture and even a little shiny. Given this, novice anglers won’t tell the difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon. So let me give you a quick breakdown and then give a more detailed explanation. Quick Breakdown For those of you looking for a quick answer. Fluorocarbon is… more abrasion resistant

sinks in the water

almost transparent

UV resistant and no water absorption

stretches less than monofilament

expensive monofilament is… suspended in water

stretches more than fluorocarbon

susceptible to water absorption and UV damage over time

much cheaper than fluorocarbon So that means… Since both cords have different characteristics, they will perform differently and therefore have different applications. Fluorocarbon is best suited for deep water jigging, cranking or any type of application where the bait needs to sink in the water column. Fluorocarbon is also great for dealing with “scary” fish. Because it is transparent, it is difficult for fish to see underwater. Monofilament is great for topwater baits. Fluoro would sink when you stop reeling in, potentially dragging the headwater down or snagging on the bottom. Because monofilament stretches, it also makes a good hooklink. This reduces the fish’s shock, making the device less likely to break. Difference Between Monofilament and Fluorocarbon – A Closer Look Only inquisitive hardcore anglers would read on! 🙂 So let’s examine the difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon fishing lines. Manufacturing Process Monofilament and fluorocarbon are both manufactured using a manufacturing process called “extrusion”.

Extrusion is the process of taking the liquid form of a substance and pushing it through a tiny hole to create a single filament or monofilament of cord. This leads inexperienced anglers to believe that fluorocarbon is the same as “monofilament” and therefore the same type of fishing line, only more expensive and supposedly “superior”. That’s just not true. what they are made of. The main difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon is their unique molecular composition. In short, they just aren’t the same.

Monofilament contains nitrogen and oxygen in its composition while fluorocarbon does not. Fun fact “Monofilament” is actually nylon, the same material that makes toothbrushes and the pantyhose that Hooters girls wear. Anyway, fluorocarbon has fluorine while monofilament doesn’t.

Since both are made of different materials, they inevitably have different properties. Density Both fishing lines have different densities: Monofilament – 1.15 g/cm3

Fluorocarbon – 1.78 g/cm3 And for comparison: fresh water – 1 g/cm3

Saltwater – 1.02 – 1.03 g/cm3 Fluorocarbon is denser than monofilament and therefore more abrasion resistant. Monofilament has almost the same density as water and is therefore neutrally buoyant. This is the opposite of fluorocarbon which is denser than both which allows it to sink. Starch fluorocarbon doesn’t stretch as much as monofilament (although it does stretch a little), making it more delicate. Due to its properties, fluorocarbon is also UV resistant and does not absorb water, which increases its lifespan. Monofilament stretches more and is therefore more impact resistant than fluorocarbon. Visibility Monofilament and fluorocarbon have different refractive indices, which means that one breaks light less than the other. Fluorocarbon refracts less light than monofilament, increasing its invisibility. Cost Compare the prices between the two next time you are in the tackle shop. The difference will be obvious! The reason fluorocarbon is more expensive than monofilament is because the material and the extrusion process are more expensive. How does this difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon apply to shore anglers? Any difference between monofilament and fluorocarbon is an advantage that we as inshore anglers should take advantage of. Remember that one fishing line is not “better” than the other. Smart anglers know how to use both to deal with different scenarios. This doesn’t go unnoticed by bass anglers as they fish waters with a lot more pressure than we do. They need to make the most of every tool in their toolbox or, in our case, a tackle box! Coastal Applications of Monofilament Recall that monofilament is almost the same density as water and only slightly heavier. This makes it “neutral-buoyant,” meaning it doesn’t actually sink or float. It only stays in one place, in this one depth.

Topwater Lures This makes it an excellent candidate for topwater lures, especially those that require pauses in the retrieve. If you were to use fluorocarbon for topwater lures, you would be terribly surprised if the topwater lure didn’t work properly because its nose was being pulled down by the weight of the fishing line.

If I wasn’t using braided line for cork popping, I would definitely be using monofilament! Leader Because monofilament stretches, it makes an excellent leader, especially for braided line (which hardly stretches). The sudden “shock” of line going from slack to tight during a hard fish hit can cause it to fail, especially at the knot. Have you ever seen someone bungee jump? The rope used is designed to stretch and take the shock out of the fall when the jumper is no longer sagging.