Best Water Bowl For Tortoise? 122 Most Correct Answers

There are about 49 species of turtles worldwide. But the ones you see most often as pets are red-footed, yellow-footed, sulcata, leopard, Greek, and Russian tortoises.

Sulcata, Leopard, Greek and Russian tortoises need warm and dry habitats. On the other hand, red-footed and yellow-footed tortoises need adequate moisture in their habitat. But the only thing you have to do for all the turtles is to provide them with a bowl of water, not only for drinking but also for soaking.

So what are the best water bowls for turtles? The best turtle water bowls are the right size for your turtle’s age and enclosure, are difficult to tip, are shallow so your turtle can’t get stuck, and are made of durable materials. You might also want to consider a bowl with a ramp or a water dispenser.

So let’s take a look at some of the things to consider when buying water bowls for your turtle. We also provide a guide to nine water bowls to buy online that are perfect for your shelled friend.

What your tortoise needs

There is a common misconception that because turtles are used to living in harsh or arid conditions, they don’t need a lot of water. Then some pet parents believe that providing a safe habitat with the right lighting, substrate, and temperatures is enough.

But you have to be aware that even creatures that have evolved over centuries to survive in desert regions cannot go on forever without water.

You see, depriving your pet turtle of drinking water or water for soaking can lead to health problems like gout, solidified uric acid, and kidney failure. These conditions are pretty devastating for turtles, but they’re all avoidable with the right water settings.

The easiest way to prevent dehydration and save your turtle from unnecessary pain and trauma is to provide them with easy access to clean drinking water on a daily basis. Your pet should have access to water at all times, with or without your presence.

This is how pet parents have learned that putting water bowls in their pet’s terrarium is a must. Below we talk about everything you need to consider before buying.

Purchase water bowls for your turtle’s enclosure

Knowing a few things in detail about your pet will help if you want to provide a water bowl for drinking and another for soaking.

Now, some turtles can grow up to 4 feet long, which means if you’re looking for a soaking bowl, you might as well fill a plastic kiddie pool. These types of turtles make wonderful outdoor pets.

But some smaller species, or younger tortoises that haven’t been fully grown for a while, can live in a terrarium and make do with smaller bowls for drinking and soaking. So, first of all, you should consider the size of your turtle.

Aside from size, there are a few other things to consider when buying a water bowl for your tortoise:

NEVER TOO STEEP – Make sure you choose a shallow bowl. The shells can be wide for outdoor turtles or narrow for small turtles in an aquarium. But for your less proficient swimmer, you need to make sure the bowl is shallow enough to prevent a drowning incident. Yes, turtles can drown.

ANTI-TOP BASE – Too much moisture in your pet’s terrarium can lead to fungal growth and that will surely harm your pet. Not to mention, every time your turtle gets too close to the bottom of the water bowl, it can tip over and make a mess in the terrarium. You don’t want a mess in your pet’s tank if you want a healthy pet. So, you need to clean up the watery mess right away. To avoid wasting time cleaning your pet’s cage, it’s a good idea to get a non-spillable water bowl. Problem solved.

DURABLE MATERIALS – You may not have seen it in your turtle. But most turtles love to nibble and chew on things. You want to be sure that any water bowl you put in your pet’s tank won’t chip or break easily. The water bowl must be sturdy enough to survive biting or chewing.

NON-TOXIC MATERIAL – You don’t want to buy your pet a plastic water bowl if it’s not food grade plastic. You see, regular plastic tends to release toxins into food and water when used over a long period of time. But food-grade plastic is designed to keep food and liquids safe for human and animal consumption. Additionally, with an outdoor turtle, you need to make sure the material is UV safe. Even if the water bowl is exposed to direct sunlight for many hours, no toxins are released from the material of the bowl into the water or food.

The Height of the Bowl – The height of the bowl depends on the age of the turtle. See, you want a water bowl for your turtle that will allow your pet easy access to the water. At the same time, it should not prevent your pet from getting out of the bowl. If the bowl is too high and steeper on the inside, there is a high chance your turtle will get trapped and have no way of getting out.

Ramp Bowls – These bowls are suitable for adult turtles, which are better able to use their weight for angling and maneuvering. Baby turtles can easily fall into these water bowls and find it difficult to get out, so these bowls can be dangerous for small pets.

Reptile Waterers – These bowls are specially designed to prevent your pet from making a mess in their terrarium. But the narrow openings often prevent adult turtles from soaking in their water bowls. Again, the benefit of using a reptile waterer depends on the size of your pet.

The 9 best water bowls for turtles

So creating a comfortable home for your pet requires a little attention to detail. You may think that water bowls are not that important for turtles, but you are wrong.

Turtles need water, not only to drink but also to soak. You see, these animals are cold-blooded reptiles. They cannot control their body temperature.

So when they’re cold, they have to bask in the sun. When they’re hot, they need water to cool down. So if you read on you will find a list of nine water bowls that would make excellent additions to your pet’s aquarium.

The best thing about the water bowls that you will find on this list is that these bowls can be easily ordered online from Amazon. You can buy all the highest quality products on Amazon without stepping outside!

1. OMEM reptile bowl

Check the current price on Amazon

OMEM comes to the rescue of turtle keepers who have been constantly searching the market for low walled water bowls. The shell is available in two different colors and four different sizes.

In addition, the wood grain material is lightweight and easy to clean compared to other ceramic turtle water bowls on the market.

OMEM reptile bowls give your pet the luxury of simply climbing in and splashing around without fear of being pinched or drowning. If you look at the price, you’ll want OMEM reptile bowls to serve food to your reptile friends too.

Finally, the wood material ensures that no toxins enter your pet’s water or food. The material also prevents the water or food from getting too hot or too cold.

Not to mention, OMEM reptile bowls are Amazon’s Choice, so you get excellent reviews from tons of happy customers and don’t have to worry about the quality.

2. Food and water bowl for reptiles with boao leaf

Check the current price on Amazon

Both adorable and functional, you will be quite happy going through the high ratings this product has received.

The Boao Reptile Food and Water Bowl is a pretty cute addition to your pet’s terrarium. Two different sizes are available so you can adjust the size as your turtle grows.

These shells are available at affordable prices and are made of high quality plastic with no room for chipping. These bowls are flat, easy to clean, won’t tip over easily and look great in any terrarium.

3. Fuongee reptile food and water bowl

Check the current price on Amazon

Measuring approximately 6.7″ x 0.55″, this lightweight yet sturdy water bowl is ideal for turtles.

As you can see, the bowl’s low walls protect your pet from harm, and it’s made of high-quality PP plastic, which is non-toxic and durable. The water bowl is easy to clean, odorless and also suitable for other reptiles such as bullfrogs, snakes and lizards.

If the fact that your turtle will love their new water bowl might not impress you, the prices will undoubtedly amaze you.

4. Exo Terra Food Bowl

Check the current price on Amazon

We know the title says food bowl, but if you look at the low walls you’ll understand why it’s also recommended as a water bowl for your pet.

As you can see, the Exo Terra pet bowl is made from food grade resin with a non-porous and smooth surface. So you don’t have to worry about toxins or bacterial growth.

It’s Exo Terra, so you know you don’t have to worry about sound quality. It looks pretty cool in your turtle’s terrarium. If you are worried about the price don’t be so as this is well worth your money.

5. Zoo Med Rock Feeder

Check the current price on Amazon

So if this is your first time pet a turtle, chances are you’ve never heard of Zoo Med. But for the experts, they will tell you that Zoo Med offers quality you can trust.

It is a very suitable choice for a turtle. Given the dimensions, it won’t take up too much space in your pet’s aquarium.

Additionally, the water bowl has a low profile with a non-porous surface, ensuring the safety of your pet not only from drowning hazards but also from bacterial growth. And yes, it will look pretty amazing in your turtle’s shell or in your outdoor garden.

6. Fluker’s Repta-Waterer for reptiles

Check the current price on Amazon

As you can see, you even have the option of purchasing a pet waterer that saves you the trouble of manually refilling your pet’s water bowl every day. The anti-tip and wide base keep your turtle’s tank clean.

The size, seven inches high and four inches wide, makes it the perfect watering hole for your pet to get a cool and refreshing drink, and because there’s a filter at the bottom of the water bottle, dirt or grime doesn’t get in to the water in the Bottle.

7. Fluker corner dish

Check the current price on Amazon

When you take a look at this unique design, you’ll probably appreciate that your turtle would have to really flex its muscles to tip this baby over.

The Fluker Corner Bowl fits snugly in your pet’s bowl and looks good doing it.

These water bowls are easy to clean and disinfect; The non-porous surfaces keep your pet’s food or water safe from bacteria.

It’s barely an inch deep, making it perfect for small to medium sized turtles.

8. Zoo Med Reptile Ramp water bowl

Check the current price on Amazon

You must understand that a ramp water bowl is not suitable for a small turtle. So here’s an option for the small to medium sized turtles that like to dive in and bask in the sun when they come out.

You see, the ramp helps the turtle get a better grip in the bowl and serves as a basking spot to get some sun too.

And you can order it in the different sizes you want. You can be assured of Zoo Med’s durability and the non-toxic, pet-safe, high-quality materials used in the manufacture of the product.

9. OMEM reptile food and water bowl

Check the current price on Amazon

This round, low-walled large bowl is not only perfect for your tortoise’s tank, but also for many small reptiles such as lizards or snakes, and is quite suitable for your pet frog’s tank too.

The faux wood looks great in most reptile habitats. And the materials used to make this bowl are non-toxic and pet-safe.

It is a high-end quality product from OMEM for your pet with a high rating. And it is available in two different sizes as well as two colors.

Conclusion

Adopting a pet as agreeable and sweet as a turtle can be a lot of fun. There is no denying that these creatures are quite fascinating to watch and observe. But becoming a pet parent means you take responsibility for a life. So you need to know as much as possible about your pet’s needs and wants to keep them happy and healthy.

Well, hydration is a requirement for all living things. Some claim that since turtles don’t come from wet, damp places, they can do fine without water for long periods of time – this is far from the truth. Your pet turtle needs water just as much as the next animal, and baby turtles need it even more.

However, there are a few things you need to keep in mind when purchasing water bowls for your pet turtle. You see, turtles don’t swim too well, so always get shallow hydration or soaking bowls for your pet’s tank.

And it’s important to keep your pet’s bowl clean to minimize the risk of fungal or bacterial infections. And if you feel like you still need some tips on how to take better care of your pet, head to the vet – nothing beats the advice of a professional.

Next: What you need for an indoor box turtle habitat

UPDATE: In mid-September 2021 we were hit by a massive price increase for these, especially the largest size. It unfortunately makes these much less affordable to use.

Wide base water bowl ideal for turtles outdoors. We have been using these bowls in our outdoor enclosures for years and love them. The wide base makes it impossible for the turtles to turn them over or even tip them over (even a person stepping on the edge won’t turn them over). They are made from a UV stabilized plastic so they can withstand years of direct sunlight while remaining very light. In windy areas, these bowls stay put better than others because the wide base deflects the wind (our food bowls sometimes blow around, but these bowls don’t move).

Because of their depth, they are best suited for turtles that are 4 inches or larger. Small babies will have a hard time getting in and out of the bowls. The turtles on the first photos on the left are 6-7 years old “Hermann’s turtles. Sizes 26″ and larger are approximately 3″ deep. Sizes 22″ and smaller are approximately 1.5” deep.

*Shipping can be very high due to size, especially on the largest sizes. Shipping to Hawaii and Alaska is additional on the larger sizes (it will be charged within the 48 states). Please email for a correct shipping quote.

Russian tortoise (Testudo [Agrionemys] horsfieldii)

Russian tortoises are a popular pet tortoise and one of the most readily available tortoise species. They are small which makes them easy to hold for most people with limited space. They are also lively, love to eat and are more active than some other turtles. When allowed to dig, Russian tortoises also have one of the highest tolerances for extreme temperatures. They are one of the few species that can be kept outdoors year-round in Las Vegas, Nevada. These factors make Russian Tortoises attractive to new tortoise keepers and a fun tortoise for seasoned veterans.

Availability of Russian tortoises

Most Russian tortoises are imported into the United States. Compared to the number of imported turtles, captive production of this species is relatively low. You should assume that most adult or subadult Russian tortoises for sale are wild-caught (imported). Captive bred babies are rarely raised to adult size and are sold at the low prices these imported Russian tortoises are being sold for.

advertisement

Photo Credit: Tyler Stewart Russian tortoise hatchling.

advertisement

Russian tortoise size

Russian tortoise juveniles have a shell length of about 2.5 cm. As they mature, they reach a maximum length of 8 to 10 inches. Females are usually slightly larger than full-size males. When females are about 6 inches long, they are large enough to begin producing eggs. Russian tortoises are almost always imported as young adults, between 4 and 5 inches in carapace length. These turtles are large enough to handle subprime terms during shipping, but small enough to fit many in a fixed-size shipping crate. Russian tortoises longer than about 6 inches can be difficult to find.

Life span of the Russian tortoise

Russian tortoises can live for over 40 years. Raised on a lean, high-fiber diet, captive-reared animals have longer lifespans in low-stress environments.

Russian turtle cages

The preferred method of rearing Russian tortoises is in an outdoor enclosure in a warmer climate. Pens for one or two adults should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet. The enclosure walls should be sunk 6 to 12 inches into the ground to prevent the turtles from digging under the sides, and they should be 12 inches or higher off the ground.

Russian tortoises are burrowers. They tend to burrow into corners and against objects. Placing large rocks underground in the corners will help discourage turtles from digging up. At higher or lower temperatures, they try to go underground to protect themselves from the extremes. Constructing underground Russian tortoise hiding boxes that maintain more stable temperatures will help discourage them from digging too much. Shady grassy areas that get regular water will help keep smaller tortoises cool.

advertisement

Photo Credit: Tyler Stewart Russian tortoises hatching to adulthood. advertisement

Russian tortoises will certainly try to eat any plant available to them in their pens. They prefer broadleaf plants and weeds. They really don’t eat grass unless they run out of options. Check all plants in the enclosure to make sure they are safe.

Russian tortoises kept indoors can be caged in large plastic containers, holding tanks, or small plastic basins. One to two adults can be kept in an enclosure at least 5 square feet with side walls 8 inches or taller. More space is much better. Babies can get away with a smaller case. Turtles kept in small enclosures become restless and spend much of the day trying to get out of the enclosures.

advertisement

Many different substrates can be used. I prefer a combination of soil or sand mixed with peat moss or fine coir. The sole use of sand makes it a bit difficult for the turtles to walk around. Your feet sink in with every step. Mixing soil will help strengthen the foundation.

I also like to include a few large, flat rocks in an indoor enclosure. They help file the turtles’ nails and give them a clean surface for food. Russian tortoises also like to climb, so try to provide an enclosure that allows them this opportunity.

Illumination and temperature of the Russian tortoise

Russian tortoises, which are allowed to live outdoors and dig burrows, are very self-sufficient when it comes to temperatures. I keep them outdoors in Las Vegas year-round with no additional heat sources. Winter lows are in the 20s (degrees Fahrenheit) and summer highs near 120 degrees.

Russian tortoises can only handle high temperatures if they can get underground where it is cooler. They are too hot to keep turtles in 100+ degrees on an outside patio or anything above ground. Russian tortoises are most active when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees, but they remain active during the cooler times of the day in midsummer or they roost underground in a burrow.

advertisement

Russian tortoises hibernate underground during the winter when they have some time to dig a burrow before cold temperatures set in. In Las Vegas, my turtles lay down at various times in the fall and emerge from hibernation in mid-February.

Indoors, Russian tortoises can be kept at normal room temperatures: 68 to 80 degrees. You should also have access to an area heated by an overhead light. This point should be in the range of 90 to 100 degrees. Like most diurnal, herbivorous reptiles, they need UVB light in their indoor enclosures to properly process the calcium in their diet. These tortoises can easily handle nighttime temperatures well into the low 50s.

Russian tortoises do not need to hibernate to be healthy, so tortoises kept indoors and kept at stable temperatures will never miss a beat while the winter winds are blowing outside. Leave the lights on 12 to 14 hours a day and turn off all light and heat sources at night.

Photo Credit: Tyler Stewart Russian tortoises winter underground when they have some time to dig a burrow before cold temperatures set in.

Russian turtle food

Russian tortoises are avid eaters, as evidenced by the destruction of plants in most outdoor enclosures. They prefer broadleaf weeds and will avidly eat almost any leafy greens or vegetables offered to them. We regularly use spring blends that contain several leafy ingredients. We supplement with kale, collard greens, kohlrabi and one of the darker types of lettuce. Variety is key, and for their size, these turtles eat seriously.

I plant many different types of safe, leafy weeds in their outdoor enclosures in spring. Dandelions are one of my favorite food sources for all tortoises. It can also be useful to partition off sections of the enclosure to allow plants to recover and rotate the turtles’ access to the separate areas. We also plant grasses, clovers and various other safe plants throughout the enclosure. If they have full access to all available space, they will almost certainly eat up the plants by mid-summer.

Photo Credit: Tyler Stewart Russian tortoises should not be handled on a regular basis. It’s best to leave them alone.

Russian turtle water

Russian tortoises may have small water bowls in their outdoor enclosures. We use flat, low-sided dishes that are glazed for easy cleaning. Cleaning needs to be done regularly as most turtles tend to soak and “soil” their dishes while they are in them. I will provide water bowls during the hottest seasons, but not during cooler times. Turtles that live in areas with regular rainfall drink from puddles and leaves. If they live in areas with longer dry spells like Las Vegas, offering water will help to keep them hydrated.

When Russian tortoises are kept indoors I prefer not to have standing water in their shells as they tend to defecate when soaking in it. In shallow water, the turtles will usually begin drinking immediately, flushing their systems at the same time. They can be soaked in shallow water outside of the enclosure for 15 to 30 minutes once or twice a week to keep them fully hydrated.

Babies and hatchlings tend to dehydrate much faster than larger, more established turtles. For this reason, I give baby Russian tortoises a quick soak in shallow water for 10 to 15 minutes up to three times a week, whether they are housed outside or indoors.

Russian tortoise health

For best results, purchase an alert, active Russian tortoise with bright, clean eyes, or purchase one from a reputable source that will at least guarantee a live arrival. These tortoises can suffer from some of the most common reptile health problems, but parasites and respiratory infections are probably the most common.

Despite being one of the more resilient species of tortoises, wild-caught Russian tortoises usually have internal parasites. These parasites are not a major burden to animals in the wild, but when turtles are confined to a small area and subjected to the additional stresses of importation, the parasites can increase their numbers to levels that are potentially lethal to the turtle . Taking a fresh fecal sample to a reptile vet can give you an idea of ​​the types of parasites present, their numbers, and the medications needed to treat them. Russian tortoises can also be susceptible to respiratory infections when kept in cool or damp enclosures. Especially at low temperatures, they must be able to dry out.

Handling and temperament of the Russian tortoise

Contrary to what many sellers tell customers, turtles generally shouldn’t be handled on a regular basis. They get stressed easily when overwhelmed and children tend to drop them when startled. These stressors can lead to a decline in a turtle’s activity level and health. Adult Russian tortoises are generally more resilient to touch, but all tortoises should be handled with care. Avoid pinning or restricting them. Allow them to continue on their intended paths.

Tyler Stewart is the source for information on the Russian tortoise. Please visit his website at www.TortoiseSupply.com.

View archived comments

Routine grooming (posture)

In captivity, we should aim to replicate the turtle’s natural environment as closely as possible, and it is important to try to establish a similar routine pattern as the turtle would follow in the wild. This will help your tortoise live a long, healthy life.

When environmental conditions are favorable, a tortoise should be kept outside, as the benefits of sunlight and the ability to forage naturally far outweigh the benefits of keeping the tortoise indoors. It is important that turtles kept outside have free access to shelter and warmth.

Make sure any turtle enclosure, indoors or out, is escape-proof so the turtle cannot climb out of the perimeter barriers or burrow under. Wherever possible, ensure enclosures are secured against predators such as rats, foxes, birds (like magpies which can pose a threat to very young turtles) and even your dog.

Establishing routines is an essential part of your turtle’s well-being and daily observation of your turtle along with good, regular records will prove invaluable in helping you reflect on all aspects of general care and husbandry and improving your approach.

Warmth and Light – Outside

Warmth and light day and night – indoors

Knowing your turtle species is important, as turtles from tropical areas have slightly different temperature requirements

time of day

In the wild, the tortoise’s daily routine is controlled by the ambient temperature. In cold weather the tortoise will look for warm places to sunbathe, and if it’s too hot it will seek shade to be outside, provided it has a place to warm up when the temperature drops. Some keepers have a cold frame or build a Plexiglas or glass “warming box” that not only provides shelter for the turtle in rainy weather, but also allows the turtle to stay warm means are regulated in such a way that they come as close as possible to the natural environmental conditions. Light and heat must be available for 12 hours each during the day and total darkness and a temperature drop during the night are required. Good quality special UVB lamps are essential. A digital thermometer with an external probe works well for checking the room temperature and the temperature under the heat lamp. Laser temperature guns are useful for checking temperature, and they can also be used to check the temperature of the turtle’s shell. See inner case.

During the day, the temperature in the basking area under the heat source should be about 30°C (86°F) at tortoiseshell height, and at the far end of the enclosure the temperature should be about 20°C (68°F). This creates a temperature gradient that allows the turtle to choose the desired temperature.

Some zookeepers set their lights on timers so that the lights turn on and off automatically at the relevant times of the 12-hour on/off cycle.

At night

An additional heater with thermostat control can be placed in the room.

For Mediterranean species, no additional heat source is required at night in a modern centrally heated home. At night, however, a ceramic heater can be used, which emits heat but no light. It can also be connected to a thermostat to ensure the right temperature. Do not place a ceramic heater near the substrate or combustible materials, or where the turtle could reach up and burn itself. Alternative,

A higher night temperature of 16°C -17°C (61°F – 63°F) is required for species such as leopards and sulcatas.

Play it safe and consider installing smoke alarms in the rare event of a fire caused by an exploding lamp.

Bathe

Bathe your turtle regularly to keep it well hydrated. This is especially important if your tortoise is kept indoors under heat lamps and indoors.

Some turtles will drink the bath water while others choose not to, but give your turtle time to drink and rehydrate. A bath of about 15-20 minutes in lukewarm or lukewarm water is sufficient.

Use a container deep enough that your turtle can’t climb out, and fill it with enough water to reach just above the line where the top shell (carapace) meets the bottom shell (plastron). . During the bath, your turtle can expel stored urine and drink to replenish its water supply. The bath water can also encourage your turtle to defecate.

If your turtle is dirty and needs a thorough cleaning, use a soft toothbrush to gently brush its shell and limbs. After the bath, make sure your turtle’s legs are dry before returning it to the soil substrate so it doesn’t accidentally rub its eyes with soil stuck to wet legs.

Hatchlings and young turtles should be soaked daily, reducing to every other day as they get older. Older juvenile tortoises should be bathed 2-3 times a week and adult tortoises should be bathed weekly, but more frequently if kept indoors under heat lamps.

All tortoises should be bathed daily or every other day during the resting period in preparation for hibernation.

Use only fresh water and do not add any detergents and NEVER polish/polish a turtle’s shell with oil or shell polish as these will clog the pores. Oils and conditioners are not natural and would never occur in the wild.

humidity

Humidity is important in a captive environment to prevent dehydration and bladder stone build-up, but it is worth remembering that different turtle species have very different humidity requirements. The humidity level we should aim for should be similar to the humidity the turtle would be exposed to in its natural habitat.

A simple guide to relative humidity (RH), i. H. the amount of humidity in the air of the turtle’s environment is:

Arid and semi-arid species, such as Mediterranean and African turtles, should have a relative humidity of about 45% to 55%. Turtles from tropical forest areas need a relative humidity of at least 80%.

Achieve a reasonably humid environment

In addition to regular bathing, you can provide your turtle with a suitable microclimate to prevent fluid loss from the body. You can do this by making the substrate deep enough for the turtle to burrow in, and you can spray it daily with a water sprayer. You can also ensure good temperature gradients by having a hot end and a cool end of the enclosure, giving the turtle freedom to choose a suitable area.

Planting the enclosure not only increases its attractiveness, but also provides shade and helps to increase the humidity in the tortoise’s immediate vicinity.

Automatic nebulizer systems for reptiles or, in smaller areas, high-quality ultrasonic humidifiers can be set up for forest dwellers.

cleaning of the facility

feeding

Daily spot cleaning is a good habit (both indoors and outdoors). While the turtle is outside taking a bath, you can use the time to quickly tidy up the enclosure. Remove all feces, clods of earth wet with urine, and clean and refresh food and water bowls as well. There are many reptile disinfectants such as B. F10, which will help you to sterilize the bath, enclosure and other equipment. Regularly remove dust from reflectors and lampshades when they are switched off and have cooled down.

Feed hatchlings and young turtles daily or split the portion in two and feed morning and afternoon. Adult tortoises can be fed every day, or you can skip feeding one day a week. Offer daily mineral and vitamin supplements. See the section on nutrition and mineral and vitamin supplements for more information. Clear away any uneaten food each day.

Monitor weight gain regularly to ensure slow, steady growth, and adjust servings accordingly.

water

Fresh drinking water should always be available.

.

Turtles stay hydrated through their diet, soaking in water, the digestive process, and through their skin. However, turtles still need to drink fresh, unchlorinated water.

Turtles should receive water that is free of chlorine, additives, flavors, sweeteners, and contaminants. You can drink tap water, bottled water, hard water and soft water.

Avoid tap water if it is heavily chlorinated or distilled as it can leach minerals from the body.

Wild turtles drink water from lakes, streams, and rain puddles, which can contain bacteria, pollutants, and other contaminants.

Of course, they have a higher mortality rate than pet turtles.

Do pet turtles drink water?

Pet tortoises need just as much water as wild tortoises, but owners can expect tortoises to go days without water since most of their fluid needs are met from food intake.

Leafy greens, vegetables, fruits and flowers have a high water content. A turtle’s digestive system extracts significantly more water from its meals than that of other animals.

However, turtles need fresh water, so you should provide access to clean drinking water. This allows the turtle to drink when it is ready as it cannot survive without water for more than 7 days.

Only clean, filtered water should be offered to pet turtles, including tap water, bottled water, and other refined sources. They must be free of chlorine, flavors and chemicals.

Can a turtle drink too much water?

A turtle is much more likely to drink too little than too much water.

Their low thirst drive is partly because they have an efficient hydration system. Sometimes desert tortoises even process the liquid from their bladder twice. As a result, it is not excreted as urine but as urine.

Turtles have permeable skin that is sensitive to moisture, allowing them to absorb liquid from the outside, especially when in humid environments or soaking in water.

Do turtles drink tap water?

If the tap water in your area is poorly treated or has high levels of chlorine, it should be avoided.

Tap water can contain contaminants such as:

mercury

To lead

fluorine

VOCs

bacteria

Turtles can drink tap water, but it needs to be filtered to remove the chlorine.

Can turtles have bottled water?

Bottled water is the safest for a turtle to drink as it is filtered and bottled to FDA standards.

It does not contain chlorine, nor can it pick up bacteria or other contaminants when flowing through pipes. If your local tap water is unsafe, bottled water is recommended.

Do not buy flavored or vitamin water as they often contain sugar, sweeteners and flavorings. Likewise, flavored water usually contains synthetic chemicals to enhance its taste.

Can turtles have hard water?

If your turtle is from a hard water region, it is equipped to process the added minerals. If your turtle is used to soft water, hard water will not be harmful, but it may taste strange.

If you have to choose between hard and soft water, slightly hard water is preferred. The mineral content benefits your turtle’s immune system, bone health and blood cell development.

Water with a high alkali content is good for digestion.

If you wash your turtle or bathe it in hard water, calcium can gradually build up on the turtle’s shell.

Can turtles have soft water?

Soft water is not harmful to turtles, and they don’t need hard water to thrive as long as they have a balanced diet with enough minerals in their diet.

Can turtles drink distilled water?

There are no scientific studies on whether distilled water is good or bad for turtles.

Some owners claim it’s better for turtles with sensitive digestions or skin. Regardless, there’s reason to believe that distilled water can lead to mineral deficiencies when it comes to turtle drinks only.

Distilled water is free of minerals. People lose minerals when they drink distilled water as it can cause minerals to be leached from the body.

Studies have only been done on humans, and how it affects turtles is unknown.

How do turtles drink water?

Turtles usually drink water through their mouths. A drinking turtle stretches its neck and dips its head into the bowl of water. So his nose and mouth will both be submerged.

Turtles often lower their entire heads above the waterline to drink. You won’t swallow or bubble while doing this, so you can tell she’s drinking just by her throat movements.

Some turtles do not open their mouths when drinking. Instead, they take in water through their nose, which is connected to the palate.

This allows your turtle to drink through its nose just as effectively as it does through its mouth.

Can turtles drink through their tails?

Turtles don’t drink through their tails or butts. Although sea turtles can take in some water through their cloaca (anal opening), turtles cannot. Even sea turtles rely on drinking primarily through their mouths.

Turtles process water effectively with their butts due to their porous skin, especially in the cloaca area. When a turtle voids urine from the bladder, it flushes it with water from the bladder to the cloaca.

Some of this water is reabsorbed through the cloaca and returned to the bladder. This ensures that turtles do not become dehydrated as often, especially if they live in an arid region where water is scarce.

How to give water to a turtle

To keep your turtle hydrated, here’s what you need to do:

Place a shallow bowl of water in a cool, easily accessible place. The bowl should be deep enough for the turtle to fully submerge its head. Check the water level daily and top up if necessary. Once a week disinfect the dish to prevent bacterial growth

Turtles are not heavy water drinkers, as they get most of their hydration from food and soaking. So if you feed your turtle well and bathe it regularly, it may not need to drink as often. However, water should always be available in case your turtle is thirsty.

A turtle is well designed to stay hydrated, but they can still run out of water. According to The Journal of Wildlife Management, drought can reduce desert tortoise populations.

Turtles can also become dehydrated without fresh water. The signs of dehydration come on gradually, so you may not notice it at first. If the turtle doesn’t rehydrate, it can be fatal.

The most common symptoms of dehydration include:

Dry and scaly skin

Dry/powdery stools

Reduced amount of urine

Sunken and/or watery eyes

lethargy or inactivity

loss of appetite

Sudden weight loss

How long can turtles survive without water?

A turtle lives no more than 7 days without water. If a tortoise lives in a particularly humid environment, it probably won’t survive a week. Ideally, turtles should drink some water every day.

Check the water level in your turtle’s bowl regularly. If your turtle isn’t drinking, a veterinarian should see it.

Turtles that don’t drink can have various health problems, including impaction. So make sure your turtle has filtered tap water (or bottled water) to drink and change the water regularly.

turtles and water

Turtles are known for being able to withstand some pretty harsh, arid environments that few other animals can endure. While it’s certainly not optimal for a turtle to go without water for a period of time, sometimes in the wild they don’t have a choice. Depending on the environment they live in will affect how long they can go without water.

A tortoise can go up to a week in low-humidity environments without fresh drinking water. Longer than two days is already difficult for a turtle, since it should drink fresh drinking water every day.

Unfortunately, some pet turtle owners may get the idea that turtles can live without food or water for long periods of time because they can live in difficult environments. However, this is far from the case as they are more likely to live long and healthy lives without any unfortunate health problems if they get an adequate amount of water on a daily basis.

If you’re looking for more information on common turtle health issues, we’ve got you covered with an in-depth article on common turtle health issues

Common turtle health problems

How long can a turtle go without water and the effects

Like most other animals, turtles live suboptimally if they don’t get fresh drinking water on a daily basis. Regardless of how much or little heat lamp it is exposed to, or any other environmental factor, going more than a few days without water can cause serious damage to your turtle’s health.

There are several health issues that your pet turtle can experience if they aren’t given drinking water, including:

Backup of the urinary/renal system

joint gout

kidney failure

The main reason these common turtle health issues occur is due to dehydration. If your turtle goes too long without fresh drinking water, their body will want to retain as much water as possible while also removing toxins that have built up in their body.

Unfortunately, many pet turtle owners believe that their turtle will be able to extract enough water from the food they feed them. This is simply not the case and can expose your turtle to various health risks which we will now address.

One of the worst consequences of dehydration in turtles is the buildup of solidified uric acid in their urinary system. Unlike mammals and amphibians, reptiles are known to remove some of their bodily waste through uric acid as opposed to urea (or urine). Without an adequate amount of water, this buildup of uric acid can lead to an unfortunate, painful illness for your turtle.

You may have heard of gout in humans, but turtles that experience episodes of dehydration are also quite susceptible to the disease. Similar to the cause of urinary system overload, joint gout is caused by a build-up of uric acid. However, when this happens, uric acid builds up in certain membranes near your turtle’s toes and other body parts, which can cause a lot of discomfort and pain.

In extreme cases of dehydration in your turtle, one of the worst consequences is kidney failure. Unfortunately, the serious health issue of kidney failure can result in the death of your turtle if not caught early enough. This can creep up on any turtle that doesn’t get enough drinking water on a daily basis.

Depending on the humidity of the environment your turtle lives in, it may be able to go without water for a long time. While I certainly don’t advise you to test this theory, you should know that less humid climates allow creatures, including humans and turtles, to live without water for long periods of time. It also means you need to stay extra hydrated in exceptionally humid climates.

When your turtle drinks water, you can see that they are excreting uric acid as they drink the water you gave them. While some pet turtle owners might find this cause for concern, it’s actually perfectly normal as they make room in their bodies for the fresh water. The fact is, turtles have learned over generations not to drain their liquid if nothing goes in, which is why scaling can occur if they go without water for long periods of time.

It’s important to emphasize that your turtle can live without water for a period of time, but at the cost of its health. If your turtle goes without fresh drinking water for too long and too often, it can easily become ill and be diagnosed with one of these harmful health issues. Remember that food alone, even water-filled food, is not enough to meet their water needs. Turtles should be given fresh drinking water daily.

Can turtles drink tap water?

It is important to ensure that your pet turtle has the right amount of drinking water at all times to keep them healthy. Some have debated different types of water to feed their turtles including hard, soft, filtered, mineral and spring water, it really depends on your preference.

For most people around the world, giving your turtle water straight from the faucet is more than okay. I give my turtles tap water every day of their lives and they are in tip-top health. The water is perfectly fine where I live, so I’m not worried at all.

There are some countries where people don’t drink tap water, but they still give it to their turtles. I bet it’s still fine as long as the water isn’t dirty or dangerous. However, if the water is making you or someone you know sick, it’s probably not a good water source for your turtle. If you don’t drink your tap water, you might want to ask yourself why and then decide if your turtle should avoid it too.

How turtles drink water

If you look closely at your turtle’s mouth, you might be surprised how they are able to drink from it at all. Well, they certainly can, but it’s not like other animals. Because they have a more rigid bone structure on their faces compared to other animals, it’s a bit more difficult.

Turtles drink water by submerging their face in the water and slowly sucking it up. Don’t worry if you see your turtle doing this. It’s perfectly normal. You may also find that they don’t gulp down the water or create excessive bubbles. That’s because they drink it in one fluid motion as well as through their nose.

It is also rumored that turtles can take water through the rear opening in their shell. Well, after much thought and research, it turns out that they can only properly consume water through their mouth and nose. While a turtle can theoretically absorb water through its pores like humans and other animals, this is not enough.

By making sure your turtle has enough water in its bowl, you can rest assured that it will live a long and happy life free from unnecessary illnesses. Make sure their bowls are filled with enough water so they can get enough water in to drink properly.

Best watering holes for turtles

We all want to make sure our turtles get enough water when they need it. Whether diving into the water or just poking their heads in to get the right amount on a daily basis, tortoises require quality watering holes.

Zoo Med Reptile Ramp Bowl

One of the best ways to ensure your turtle has the right amount of water is to get her a ramp bowl, which is why I wholeheartedly recommend checking out the Zoo Med Reptile Ramp Bowl. Not only does this bowl hold a good amount of water, but it also allows your turtle to fully submerge itself in the water.

This Zoo Med ramp bowl is made from a high quality resin bowl which is not only shatterproof but also very easy to clean. Specially designed for small reptiles, your turtle can safely immerse themselves in their drinking water without drowning. It also has an easy access ramp, giving your turtle easy access whenever they want.

Fluker Repta-Waterer

It’s always nice when a product you buy can do your job for you for a period of time in case you forget to do it yourself. Well, the Fluker Repta-Waterer ensures that your turtle has enough drinking water for a longer period of time in case you are not able to refill its bowl every day.

This Fluker’s Auto Waterer is a great product for turtle owners who are busy and need a little help. Not only will this potion help you when you need it, but it is also very durable and specially designed with a wide anti-tipping base. In reality, this is ideal for turtles and all types of reptiles because of its design, convenience and ease of use.

After a hibernation of over four months, a desert tortoise may wake up thirsty.

You go straight into one

shallow pan of water and dunk her head for a few moments. Here you can see that the water is standing over his nose and eyes.

They drink through their mouths, but this guy also blew bubbles through his nose underwater. Especially after a dry winter, getting dry nasal passages up probably feels good. He would relax with his head under water for a while, regularly taking large gulps of water or raising his head slightly for air. Then he would dip his head in again.

In recent years, scientists have discovered that Aldabra tortoises on arid islands in the Indian Ocean can draw water out of their nostrils to drink. A valve in the nasal passage closes the path to the lungs, allowing the turtle to use its nose like a straw to drink from shallow puddles of rainwater.

I wonder if North American desert tortoises might have a similar adaptation. They also live in an arid habitat where rainwater is sporadic. When drinking, they prefer to involve their nose. I’ve never seen them drink with their mouths submerged and their noses above the water’s surface. Can they drink just by pressing their nostrils into a flat sheet of water? I don’t know, but it’s definitely worth investigating.

Note – Do not confuse this with breathing underwater. Desert tortoises are land animals. They cannot swim and the weight of their shell causes them to sink in the water. They can drown if they fall into a pool or pond. Because turtles have slow metabolisms and a very complex circulatory system, they can survive longer than mammals without access to oxygen, but they can still drown.

desert tortoise and western sand lizard

This seems to be a topic that isn’t being talked about as much as it should be – should we add water conditioners (dechlorinators) to our turtle’s drinking and soaking water? The answer is absolutely not, but read on to learn why.

Chemical dechlorination is achieved through sulfonation – and treated water is sometimes referred to as “sulfonated water”. Various dry chemicals used for dechlorination form sulfur dioxide in solution. These chemicals include sodium sulfite ( {Na}_{2}{SO}_{3} ), sodium metabisulfite ( {Na}_{2}{S}_{2}{O}_{5} ), sodium bisulfite ( { Na}{H}{S}{O}_{3} ) and sodium thiosulfate ( {Na}_{2}{S}_{2}{O }_{3} ) (Linde, 1995). When chlorine is dissolved in water, it hydrolyzes to hypochlorous acid ({H}{O}{Cl}) and hypochlorite ion ({O}{Cl}). When the sulfite salts are dissolved in chlorinated water, the sulfite ion reacts with both free and combined forms of chlorine (Helz and Nweke, 1995; WEF, 1996). For example, the chemical reaction for sodium thiosulfate is as follows:

The common name for { Na }_{ 2 }{ S }{ O }_{ 4 }, one of the resulting products, is sodium sulfate. This chemical can cause gastrointestinal irritation and diarrhea when ingested by humans, according to the National Institutes of Health. When poultry drank water containing 7500 mg/l sodium sulfate for 15 days, the mortality rate was 33%. Outbreaks of poisoning in pigs due to overdose have also been reported. The resulting effects were characterized by twitching, tremors and convulsions. The most prominent lesion at autopsy was widespread vacuolation and necrosis of the cerebral cortex (U.S. National Library of Medicine, 2017). This product is clearly unsafe and toxic if swallowed.

Although this topic appears to be largely unexplored in reptiles, there are some studies showing that sulfonated effluent poses a hazard to some sensitive aquatic life. One study reported a small but significant increase in striped bass mortality in dechlorinated water compared to untreated estuary water (Hall et al., 1981). In a recent report, the freshwater invertebrate, Ceriodaphnia dubia, showed lower reproductive success in chlorinated/dechlorinated wastewater than in non-disinfected wastewater (Rein et al., 1992).

Unfortunately, I’ve heard of many turtle keepers using dechlorinators in their turtles’ drinking and soaking water. I have also seen a tortoise, Herman the Russian tortoise, die after being cared for in this way by its previous owner. After being exposed to Reptisafe in its drinking water for about a year, the turtle developed edema followed by kidney failure and died. Can I say that the dechlorinator certainly caused the death of this animal? Not really, but this animal’s otherwise perfect care suggests this may have happened.

This section is dedicated to Herman, the Russian tortoise who died after only 4 days of our rescue. This photo is near his death, and the swollen or swollen tissues indicate he was suffering from kidney disease. Please learn from Herman’s case and do not use Reptisafe or any other dechlorinating product in animal drinking water.

This may seem confusing as water conditioners are not harmful to fish and are very necessary when using tap water to fill an aquarium with fish. An interesting difference between turtles and fish is that fish don’t actually drink the water. Since the bodies of fish that live in fresh water are saltier than the water they live in, water enters their bodies by osmosis. The chemicals used for dechlorination are probably too large or not allowed to penetrate the membrane barrier. Also, these animals breathe through their gills, which can be burned by chlorine. Obviously, the care requirements for fish and turtles are very different. However, the confusion over the need to treat water for turtles likely stems from the idea that aquatic turtles (similar to tortoises) live in an aquatic environment and often alongside fish. I cannot discuss the most appropriate treatment for water where fish live alongside aquatic turtles, but we certainly should not be confused by the misleading association between aquaristics and the need to treat the water. Aquatic turtles actually drink the water they live in and face the same ill effects as turtles would if they drank chemically treated water. The best care for tortoises and tortoises would be to use tap water directly and not worry about the presence of chlorine. Dechlorinators are absolutely unnecessary anyway as chlorine evaporates completely within 24 hours and most will evaporate if left overnight.

Even before chlorine evaporates, it should not be harmful if consumed or brought into contact with turtles or tortoises while swimming or bathing. As discussed above, when chlorine dissolves in water, hypochlorous acid ({H}{O}{Cl}) is formed. In drinking water at the most common concentration of 0.2 – 1 mg/L (White, 1978) it is harmless and only a very mild acid. This subject has been over-studied for the safety of human drinking water. Both short-term and long-term exposure studies with chlorine levels in the drinking water of rats that are 200 to 275 times higher have proven to be harmless (Daniel, 1990; NTP, 1992). Given the lack of studies on the safety of chemical dechlorinators, it seems pretty foolish to use these products.

Surely your next question is – if it is really harmful to our tortoise or tortoise, how can they market this product specifically for reptiles? Do not ask me. All I know is that the FDA’s system of protecting humans is so weak, it’s even weaker for pets. Public health agencies have little authority and resources to ensure products manufactured for pets are safe (FDA CVM, 2007). Moral of the story, just because something is sold on a pet store shelf, don’t assume it’s safe to use. And definitely don’t use dechlorinators in a turtle’s drinking water!

References:

Daniel FB et al. Comparative subchronic toxicity studies of three disinfectants. Journal of the American Water Works Association, 1990, 82:61-69.

Lewis, R.J. (1996) Sax’s Hazardous Properties of Industrial Materials. 9th ed. Volumes 1-3. New York, NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold, p. 3039

Lind, C. (1995) Possibilities of wastewater dechlorination. Public Works. 126 (Sept): 69-70.

Hall, L.W., Jr.; Burton, D.R.; Graves, WC; Margery, S.L. (1981) Environ. Science. technol. 15, 573-578.

Helz, G.R. and Nweke, A.C. (1995) Incompleteness of Wastewater Dechlorination. environmental science and technology. 29:1018-1022.

National Toxicology Program. Report on toxicology and carcinogenesis studies of chlorinated and chloraminated water in F344/N rats and B6C3F1 mice (drinking water studies). Research Triangle Park, NC, US Department of Health and Human Services, 1992 (NTP TR 392).

Rein, DA; Jamesson, G.M.; Monteith, R.A. (1992) In Water Environment Federation 65th Annual Conference and Exposition; Water Environment Association: Alexandria, VA; pp. 461-471.

US Department of Health and Human Services. (2018) Household Products Database – Sodium Formaldehyde Bisulfite. National Institute of Health. Bethesda, Md. https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=chem&id=2189

US National Library of Medicine. (2017) Sodium Sulfate – Hazardous Substances Database Number 5042. National Institutes of Health. Bethesda, Md. https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search2/f?./temp/~XePm48:1

Water Environment Association. (1996) Operation of Municipal Wastewater Treatment Plants, 5th Edition, MOP 11. Alexandria, VA: Water Environment Federation

White GC. Current chlorination and dechlorination practices in the treatment of drinking water, waste water and cooling water. In: Jolley RL, ed. Chlorination of water: environmental and health implications. Vol. 1. Ann Arbor, MI, Ann Arbor Science, 1978:1-18.

Can turtles swim? Knowing the answer to this question could save your turtle’s life. Although it’s common to use the names “tortoise” and “tortoise” interchangeably, there are actually some key differences between the two animals that every tortoise owner needs to understand.

So can turtles swim underwater? What is the difference between a tortoise and a tortoise? Does my turtle need water? These are all important questions that we’re about to cover to help you keep your shelled friend safe and happy.

Turtles vs. Turtles

The name “turtle” actually refers to turtles, terrapins, and sea turtles as it really covers everything within their taxonomic family that is a shelled, egg-laying reptile.

However, there is an obvious difference between tortoises and tortoises; Turtles live on land while sea turtles spend most of their lives in the water. If you take a closer look at them, you can begin to understand why turtles can swim and why tortoises are better suited to life on land.

Fins vs Feet

If you take a closer look at the feet of sea turtles, you’ll see that they’re actually more like flippers. Although they come to the beach to build their nests and lay eggs, turtle feet are designed to propel them through the water, which is very useful as they spend most of their lives in the sea. On the other hand, the webbed feet of aquatic turtles, such as terrapins, are a bit different as they also have claws that allow them to move well both in water and on land.

Turtle feet, on the other hand, look more like elephant feet; They have claw toes and curved legs that allow them to walk on land. Unlike tortoises, who are limited in their choice of habitat, tortoises can survive in a number of different environments, so they need something more robust to help them. The claws on their feet can help them dig their burrows, but they wouldn’t be very useful for swimming.

Shellfish

Another difference to look at would be the shapes of their shells; A sea turtle has a streamlined shell that allows it to move effortlessly through the water. A turtle’s shell is flatter and also lighter than a turtle’s shell.

However, tortoises have much larger, domed carapaces that are in no way aerodynamic.

Why can’t turtles swim?

Without a streamlined shell or fins, it’s no wonder turtles can’t swim. A sea turtle has evolved over thousands of years to be able to glide through deep water, while turtle evolution has created a body structure that allows them to live safely in their natural habitat on land. Their thick legs and heavy shell just aren’t equipped to help them stay afloat, let alone swim underwater.

Can turtles swim?

There is differing information on whether turtles can swim or not and we don’t encourage anyone to try and find out for themselves! It is said that this depends on various factors such as the turtle’s age, size and species.

In our opinion it’s not worth the risk and it’s better to be safe and not put your turtle too deep in the water. Whether your turtle can swim or not, it will likely stress them out and put them at serious risk of drowning.

know the difference

There have been many reported incidents of people confusing turtles with turtles and then putting them in the water, believing they will swim away.

Unfortunately, as we now know, turtles and tortoises are not the same and only one of them is equipped to swim, so it’s important to know the difference so you don’t make the same mistake.

If you find a turtle and can’t tell if it’s an aquatic turtle or a turtle, look for webbed feet and note the shape of its shell. Although freshwater turtles, sea turtles, and terrapins can have differently shaped shells, they all have a more streamlined shape than their taxonomic cousins; Even baby turtles have noticeably larger, dome-shaped shells, which should be easy to identify now that you know.

In any case, it is safest to leave the shelled reptile where you found it. If it’s a turtle, they’ll go back into the water when they’re ready, while a tortoise will continue their journey in the other direction, away from the water.

turtles and water

Now that we’ve established that most turtles can’t swim, let’s go into some more detail.

In the wilderness

Most turtle species seek out shallow water sources to bathe or drink water. It’s not uncommon to see turtles hanging out by the water to cool off on a hot day. However, if you see shelled reptiles swimming, it is most likely a species of turtle.

Can turtles survive underwater?

The short answer is “no”. Although sea turtles have evolved to hold their breath for up to seven hours, most tortoise species cannot hold their breath for more than a few minutes and drown if they stay in deep water for a very long time.

For this reason, for your own safety, as a turtle owner, you should never offer water that is too deep for your pet turtle to stand in.

Bathe your turtle

As we mentioned earlier, although most turtles cannot swim, they enjoy bathing in the water. You can prepare a quick bath for your pet turtles in your bathtub, sink, or even a large tub of water. Here are a few things to keep in mind when bathing your turtle:

Keep in mind that they can’t swim and aren’t aquatic turtles, so depending on the size and specific species of your turtle, you only need to provide about an inch of water. You need to make sure your turtle’s head doesn’t get submerged when it’s lying down.

Never leave your turtle unattended when in a bath, especially in a round sink where there is a risk of it tipping over and drowning.

Use lukewarm water; Water that is too hot or too cold can be uncomfortable for your pet.

Your turtle may poop in its bath, and that’s perfectly normal.

Always put them back in their enclosure when they are dry.

Some turtles don’t like being in the water at all. So if they try to climb out, you should take them out, dry them and put them back in their homes.

However, if they are enjoying their bath, you can grab a soft toothbrush and take the opportunity to clean their shell and legs. It is important not to use soap as it can irritate your turtle’s skin or cause serious damage if ingested.

drinking water

Like many other animals, turtles drink water regularly. Your pet turtle should have access to a shallow water bowl and you must provide them with fresh water daily.

Pet turtles are often known to settle into their water bowl, so be prepared to clean them more frequently if they lug or defecate in substrate!

Final Thoughts

We hope that covered everything you need to know about whether or not turtles can swim. In summary, turtles and tortoises are two different species of animals that have evolved to live in different habitats. While turtles live in the sea and are incredibly good swimmers, tortoises live on land and you certainly won’t be seeing them swim anytime soon.

Still, that doesn’t mean your pet turtle won’t enjoy bathing in their water bowl every now and then, or that you can’t give them a little bath.

Just remember to never put your turtle at risk and follow our guidelines for a happy and safe turtle! Does your turtle like their baths? Let us know in the comments!

Turtle behavior can be confusing, but it can be very important to understand. We look at six frequently asked questions about turtles and their behavior.

Veterinarian approved article by John Chitty, BVetMed, CertZooMed, CBiol, MSB, MRCVS.

Why is my turtle banging his head? | Why do turtles squeak? | turtle breathing heavily | Why is my turtle scratching all the time? | turtle pace

Why is my turtle banging his head?

Turtles are not social animals, and head banging or butting can be a sign of mating rituals or dominance.

When mating, the males often tilt their heads toward a female before attempting to mate. If both turtles are male, a fight may ensue, with one turtle being knocked over.

Male Spur-thighed turtles can also ram the female, while Hermann’s, Marginated, and Horsefields can bite the female. This is believed to help stimulate ovulation in women.

Males also smell the turtle’s cloaca region as it gives off pheromones. This helps the male determine not only the sex, but also the species. Turtles are very unlikely to mate with any other species.

And it’s not just men who exhibit this behavior. Gravid females – meaning they are carrying eggs – also become aggressive. Biting, headbutting, and ramming of turtles, people, or objects in their vicinity.

Some Mediterranean tortoise species are more prone to headbanging than others. The Spur Thighed will head bang more often, while the Hermanns will tend to head bob.

If your male is head-banging, biting, and generally assertive, he might also be marking his territory in defense of other males.

Turtles will also do it to bully smaller, younger turtles and incompatible species. Bullying can occur at feeding time when a larger turtle is defending its food from weaker turtles.

These behaviors can start at any age. Some turtle owners have reported that their turtle started headbanging in their 40s. And they can run the behavior on any object – from shoes to rocks to baseboards.

Thanks to John Chitty BVetMed, CertZooMed, CBiol, MSB, MRCVS for his advice on tortoise mating rituals.

Headbanging, ramming, and biting can all be part of your turtle’s mating behavior.

Why do turtles squeak?

Squeaking or whistling can be a sign of a respiratory infection. So if your pie is squeaking or whistling, check for signs of nasal discharge and difficult breathing.

Squeaking can also be part of a male turtle’s mating ritual and can often be very loud.

Tort owners on the Tortoise Keepers Facebook group have discussed the issue on numerous occasions. Some owners comment that their tortoises squeak regularly and that it is part of their pet’s personality.

However, all turtle owners are well aware of the respiratory infection and association with squeaks. Each new squeak is greeted with caution and is often queried by Facebook group members when it is mentioned on the forum.

Tortoise Forum and Facebook Forum members also comment that whistling can be caused by substrate that is too dry, humidity levels that are too low, or a dusty environment. Too dry an environment can dry out the turtles’ “noses” and cause whistling.

However, remember that many turtle breeds come from drier environments, so make sure your humidity level and substrate are right for your turtle type.

While keeping a turtle indoors is not the preferred option, you can choose the right type of enclosure to make them more acceptable. Learn what turtles need and how best to care for them.

For all captive animals, the ideal is to provide a home that is as similar as possible to the animal’s natural environment. This is especially true for turtles — including those that live outdoors. Turtles are generally best kept in outdoor enclosures in climates similar to their natural environment. The goal is to keep tortoises from arid climates in arid areas and tropical tortoises in tropical areas. If this is not possible, setting up an outdoor enclosure for at least part of the year is the next best choice.

Barring certain circumstances (hatchlings, sick turtles, turtles not healthy enough for hibernation), keeping turtles indoors is the least desirable. One of the biggest issues with indoor housing is providing adequate floor space. Keep in mind that most tortoises grow quite large and a correspondingly large enclosure is required. Additionally, you want something that’s relatively easy to clean and gives you the ability to set up different temperature zones for the turtle.

Avoid aquariums

A glass tank is not the best option for indoor growing. Even the largest glass tanks are simply too small and poorly ventilated for most turtles. Large tanks are also difficult to maneuver and clean. Turtles need plenty of floor space to walk around, but the sides just need to be high enough that the turtle can’t climb over them (while aquariums tend to have high sides). Unless the tank is very large, it is too difficult to provide an adequate temperature gradient for a turtle in a glass tank. In addition, turtles seem to prefer opaque enclosures – they are likely to feel very exposed and vulnerable with glass-sided shells and often spend a lot of time trying to get through the clear glass as well.

turtle tables

A homemade wooden enclosure is usually the preferred method for indoor keeping. You will see these turtle tables or turtle tables. Essentially, it’s a large wooden box with lots of floor space and fairly short sides. Typically, UVA/UVB lighting and heat lamps can be hung above the wooden cabinet to provide light and heat needs. Some form of shallow water supply is also required.

You can build a turtle table yourself or buy it ready-made. Here are some ideas for building or modifying your own turtle table if you need to keep your turtle indoors:

Tortoise Trust: This simple but ingenious design uses plant trays to line the enclosure with a variety of substrates.

This simple yet ingenious design uses plant trays to line the enclosure with a variety of substrates. Pettortoise.co.uk: This very basic little enclosure is for hatchlings but this gives you a good idea of ​​how to build a wooden house.

Other options

For smaller turtles, some owners use plastic storage containers. These have the advantage of being quite lightweight (so easy to clean) and come in fairly large sizes. However, they have high sides, so ventilation can become an issue. Cutting off the sides or drilling holes for ventilation are options to modify it.