Can You Use Clear Elmer’S Glue As Resin? The 68 Correct Answer

This article was co-authored by Amy Guerrero. Amy Guerrero is an arts and crafts specialist and owner of Sunshine Craft Co., a craft studio based in Phoenix, Arizona. Amy specializes in macrame, DIY crafts and teaching fiber arts. She offers monthly in-person and online workshops and has created a number of DIY craft kits for projects at home. Amy holds a BS in Industrial Design from Philadelphia University. She worked as a graphic designer before starting her own business. Sunshine Craft Co. is a creative hub offering a wide variety of workshops, tools, and resources for any craft project to inspire creativity and community engagement. This article has been viewed 71,197 times.

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If you want to speed up an art or DIY project, you can use heat or cool air to dry the glue faster. If it’s a warm day, leave your project in the sun for a few hours. Or place it a few feet away from a fan instead. If it’s cold outside, place your project in the same room as a heater to benefit from the extra warmth. You can also use a hair dryer to dry small amounts of glue. Simply hold your hair dryer about 30cm away from your item and leave it there for 2 or 3 minutes. To cool hot glue, hold a can of compressed air upside down and spray it on the glue for a few seconds. For more tips, including how to make super glue dry faster, read on!

• Categorized under Objects | Difference between super glue and epoxy

Superglue vs. Epoxy

Adhesives play a very important role in human life. There are many types of adhesives, all depending on the need. They can be strong, mild or weak. Adhesives that are not strong enough to stick for a long time are called weak adhesives, for example paper glue. Strong adhesives are epoxies and super glue.

In this article, we discuss the two strongest adhesives, super glue and epoxy.

superglue

Super Glue is a form of compounded cyanoacrylate. Methyl 2-cyanoacrylate and ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate are two of the most popular types of super glue.

In liquid form, Super Glue contains monomeric molecules of a compound known as cyanoacrylate. Methyl 2-cyanoacrylate has a molecular weight of 111 while ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (C6H7NO2) has a molecular weight of 125.

Superglue is a very thin, water-based liquid adhesive with very low shear strength. It is water resistant and cures very quickly compared to other strong adhesives. Cyanoacrylate forms a very weak bond with glass, so it is not used to bond silica. When it reacts with cotton or wool, an exothermic reaction takes place that can burn the material and cause injury.

Super Glue has a very wide range of applications, ranging from household to industrial. In normal household applications, superglue is used to connect appliances, woodwork, or furniture. In industrial applications they are generally used with some compounds.

epoxy

Epoxy is also referred to as polyepoxide. It’s basically a thermoset polymer created by a manual reaction of a resin and a hardener; wherein the resin is an epoxy and the hardener is a polyamine.

Epoxy resins are made by converting the liquid polyether into solids through a reaction between bisphenol A and epichlorohydrin. Epoxy resin is a gel-like substance and is self-adhesive.

Epoxy hardeners contain polyamine monomers such as triethylenetetramine (TETA). It’s also a similar looking gelling agent to the resin.

Epoxy resin and epoxy hardener are mixed in different proportions according to user’s needs. The more hardener that is added, the longer it takes to set. Harder makes the whole connection stronger. Epoxy is water resistant and can cure under water, ie the reaction of the polyamide and the epoxy can even take place in the water.

Epoxy has a wide range of uses, both industrial and domestic. In the home, it is used in heavy equipment, as well as in low-consumption products and furniture. It is totally waterproof and is therefore widely used in surfboards and in the marine industry.

Summary:

1.Super Glue is a thin, transparent liquid while Epoxy is a hard, gel-like medium.

2. Super glue is used directly and is a single compound, while epoxy is used by combining resin and hardener according to user’s needs.

3. Super glue cures quickly and has very low shear strength, while epoxy resin cures slowly and has good shear strength.

4. Superglue can be easily removed with acetone or GBL while epoxy is not easily removed.

It will not work.

You can melt hot glue in a pan, but it tends to turn yellow and eventually brown if it gets too hot. Whether the mold survives casting depends on the material.

The real problem is that hot glue shrinks quite a bit as it cools. The mold surface is cooler than the hot glue, so the outside will set first while the center stays liquid longer. As the center cools and shrinks, it pulls all surface areas toward the center, distorting the object and potentially damaging the shape.

I had this experience with a very small object: a paper cutout of a treasure chest, no larger than 2 x 1 x 1 cm. I wanted to add weight to the object so I filled the whole thing with hot glue. When it cooled, the side panels drew in noticeably and there was a large (relatively speaking) hole at the tip of the hot glue where the top pulled toward the center.

Why isn’t Elmer’s glue sticking to his bottle? Question date: 2008-10-08 Answer 1:

That’s a really good question. It reminds me of an experiment Feynman did as a student in college. He asked the question:

If you make jelly but NEVER STOP STIRRING IT, WILL IT CUT? I think simple questions like these show that someone could be heading towards a career in science because they speak to a fundamental curiosity about the world and because even though EVERYONE uses Elmers Glue all the time, FEW PEOPLE stop thinking about why !!! Anyway, I’m not entirely sure, but I think it’s due to drying. When you put a coat of Elmers glue on something, it’s a THIN coat… and a thin coat has a LOT of surface area. This surface allows the glue to lose water, ie dry out… and the white stuff becomes tacky and eventually hardens and bonds. In a bottle of the stuff, the surface area to volume ratio is relatively small… and so the bottle is closed and so the glue can’t lose the excess water and stays liquid. One way to test this is to put some in a bowl and see if a thin SKIN of hardened glue forms. The hypothesis I’ve proposed would say that a skin should form on top where the glue meets air… and to do further testing you could set up a fan and blow gently over the surface… the skin should form faster if I’m correct. So try an EXPERIMENT. SCIENCE IS BELIEVING THE IGNORANCE OF EXPERTS… do an experiment and let Mother Nature guide you to the truth!!!! Answer 2:

It contains a solvent (water) that keeps the glue liquid. After the solvent has evaporated, the remaining polymer adhesive hardens. If you uncap the bottle and the water evaporates, Elmer’s will stick to the bottle. Answer 3:

Elmer’s glue won’t stick to its bottle because it doesn’t bond two items together until it’s dry. You may have noticed that when you glue two pieces of paper together, you can still move the papers around while the glue is really wet. As the glue dries it will become more difficult to move the papers around until the glue has completely dried and the papers are stuck together. This also applies to the bottle – when the glue is wet it can flow freely into the bottle and won’t stick to the sides. The reason for this lies in the chemical composition of the adhesive. When it’s liquid, the glue can move and flow like a liquid, but when it dries, the molecules become trapped in the glue, sticking your surfaces together. Thank you for your question! Answer 4:

Glue is a solid dissolved in a solvent. As the solvent evaporates, the solid hardens. If the solution is not exposed to air, the solvent will not evaporate and the adhesive will remain liquid. The glue will stick to the bottle when exposed to air.

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How to use transparent adhesives

Getting ready

Prepare your workspace and surface. Whether you use clear silicone glue or clear glue, make sure your project area is clean. In addition, the surfaces to be bonded must be clean, dry and free from contamination. Also make sure that the temperature in the work area suits your product.

Have fun, but stay healthy! Like many glues, clear glue can irritate your skin and eyes, so only work in a well-ventilated area. Wear gloves and wash your hands after use.

Clear Glue

Application. Apply a thin layer of clear glue to a surface. Immediately after applying the adhesive, glue the parts together and hold or clamp them together (before skin formation), according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Very porous materials will likely require a thicker layer of adhesive, and you may need to apply it to both surfaces.

Wet the surfaces. If both surfaces are non-porous, you may need to pre-wet them with a damp cloth; Check the manufacturer’s instructions. Absorbent substrates are usually water-permeable and do not require pre-moistening.

let it dry The adhesive reaches its maximum strength after complete curing.

Clear silicone adhesive

Apply the silicone. If using a product like Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant, apply it to one of the surfaces to be bonded.

Slightly roughen surfaces. This improves your results when gluing tiles, porcelain or rubber or surfaces.

Clamp and dry. Press the materials together and clamp for the full cure time as specified by the manufacturer.

Clean up

Clean up your workspace and tools. Clean tools and adhesive residue immediately with white spirit (silicone-clear adhesive) or with alcohol, acetone or white spirit (clear adhesive). Hardened sealant can be carefully cut away with a sharp-edged tool.

last updated on June 18, 2022

Resin has been used in industry for almost 100 years as a coating to make surfaces easier to clean.

But lately, using resin for crafting and home decor use is popular, especially for jewelry, keychains, coasters and even furniture.

The increasing use of resin raises the question of whether or not resin is environmentally friendly.

After all, more usage means more resin to be produced, right?

But it also means more waste.

Unfortunately, most resin is not environmentally friendly. In this article we will examine why this is so.

1. How is resin made?

Most resin is a synthetic material that is a form of plastic.

Plastics are the result of refining crude oil into a form that can be used for a specific purpose.

In the manufacture of resin, large quantities of crude oil are heated to break them down into smaller hydrocarbon molecules called monomers.

Examples of monomers are ethylene and propylene, but the exact type of monomer produced depends only on what type of plastic is being made.

Once the monomers are made, they undergo another chemical process that combines monomers into polymers to make resin.

Dyes and other chemicals are then added to give the resin different properties depending on its intended use.

Resin can then be cured into a form of plastic or left in its liquid form to be packaged and sold.

2. Are there different types of resin?

The term resin does not refer to just one material but to a family of materials, most of which are made of plastic.

There are actually many different categories of resins used in the manufacture of plastic goods, but listing all categories would be far too detailed to cover in this article.

But there are four common types that you and I use for purposes of crafting or coating and sealing surfaces.

They are also commonly used in the manufacture of everyday items.

epoxy resin

Epoxy resin is used to make adhesives, paints, primers, and sealers, and is often used as a coating for floors.

This type of resin is one of the most popular forms because it makes surfaces easy to clean, hardens to protect surfaces from moisture, and is easy to use for crafting.

polyester/fiberglass resin

You may hear this type of resin called either polyester or fiberglass resin.

It is also used very frequently, especially in restaurants, kitchens, bathrooms and other areas that require a lot of cleaning.

Polyester/fiberglass resin can also be used to seal cracks and make repairs.

In fact, one of the most prominent users of this type of resin is the marine industry, where it is used in the manufacture of boats.

polyurethane resin

Polyurethane resin is primarily used for coating and sealing wood, but there are many subcategories of polyurethane resin that have other uses as well.

Some polyurethane resins can be used to coat leather to make it more durable and easier to clean, particularly in the automotive and textile industries where leather is used for upholstery.

Polyurethane resin is also the most commonly used type for molding shoe soles.

silicone resin

Silicone resin is slightly different from the other types of resin mentioned so far as it is not used in liquid form.

Silicone should be food safe. It is used to make molds and tools that you would use in the kitchen.

This type of resin also has many electrical applications as it has high tolerance to heat and is insulating. Silicone resin also repels water easily.

3. Is resin eco-friendly?

Most resins are not environmentally friendly as they are the result of crude oil and the refining process.

Both the collection of crude oil and the production of resin are very harmful to the environment and its plant, animal and human populations.

The refining process uses many harmful chemicals that are released into the environment by the manufacturing company that produces them.

Even if waste is properly disposed of, there is still the potential to pollute air, water and soil.

Many people believe that silicone resin is more environmentally friendly than epoxy, polyester/fiberglass and polyurethane resin.

They argue that it’s safer for the environment and people than other types of resin because the silica used to make it comes from sand rather than crude oil.

That may be true, but the silicon extracted from sand still needs to be processed and treated with chemicals to make it usable.

This means that silicone resin still has the potential to harm the environment, even if the potential is lower.

4. Is resin sustainable?

Any product derived from crude oil is not sustainable as crude oil is a non-renewable resource.

Crude oil supplies will eventually run out to cope with over-drilling and the increasing use of plastics.

This means that epoxy, polyester/fiberglass and polyurethane resins are not sustainable.

Silicone resin is more sustainable because it comes from sand rather than crude oil.

But silicone isn’t entirely sustainable either, as it’s made in combination with chemicals derived from petroleum.

5. Is resin biodegradable?

Resin is not biodegradable as it is a product of crude oil refining.

It can take hundreds of years for any type of plastic material to biodegrade, releasing harmful chemicals into the environment during the process.

Also silicone resin is not biodegradable as it is made with harmful chemicals.

6. Is resin compostable?

Resin is also non-compostable. Synthetic resins either already exist in a solid form or harden from a liquid to a solid. They don’t compost because they can’t be broken down.

Although silicone is more flexible, it also shouldn’t be composted as it doesn’t break down either.

Any type of resin is made with harmful chemicals that could end up in the environment through the compost.

7. Is resin organic?

The term organic usually refers to plant-based products. But to be organic, a plant-based product must be made without the use of chemicals.

Resin is non-plant based and is made with all kinds of chemicals during all aspects of the production process. Therefore it is not organic.

8. Is resin toxic?

Resin is more toxic in liquid form than solid, especially epoxy and polyester/fiberglass resin.

These particular types of resin are most commonly used by people for home use and are usually purchased in liquid form.

Using epoxy and polyester/fiberglass resin without proper protection such as B. a respirator, can lead to inhaling the toxic fumes. This can cause asthma or other breathing problems.

It is also recommended to work in a well-ventilated area and to wear gloves when using any type of resin.

Some of the chemicals that make up most resins are believed to cause cancer in both humans and animals. They also have the potential to pollute water and soil.

However, once resin has cured, its toxicity to humans decreases.

Silicone resin is said to be non-toxic and food safe, but silicone resin is not used in liquid form by humans.

Although silicone is still made with chemicals, such a high heat tolerance means those chemicals are less likely to be released into the environment when heated.

However, remember that while silicone is non-toxic, it’s still made with many of the same chemicals as plastic.

9. Can resin be recycled?

Epoxy, polyurethane and silicone resins can technically be recycled, but they are complicated to recycle.

Recycling plastics in these forms takes a lot of money and energy as there are only certain ways to recycle them.

Sometimes recycling involves using chemicals to break them down.

It is therefore important for people trying to recycle these materials in a more environmentally friendly way to think about how environmentally friendly recycling actually is.

But the ability to recycle resin is usually reserved for large corporations and companies.

You and I cannot recycle resin as it has to be taken to a designated recycling facility that we don’t have real access to.

In other words, you can’t just take resin to your city’s recycling yard.

How to properly dispose of resin

If liquid resin has already hardened, you can dispose of it with normal household waste.

But if the resin is still liquid and you try to dispose of it, it can release harmful chemicals into the environment before it eventually hardens.

You also cannot dispose of it by pouring it down the drain because it can then contaminate the water supply.

The recommended method of disposing of liquid resin is to pour it into a HDPE plastic container if the resin is not in its original container.

HDPE plastic is durable enough to handle strong chemicals like resin without being destroyed by the chemical.

Leave the resin exposed to sunlight for several days until it hardens, then dispose of it with your regular waste.

We should note that resin may be classified as hazardous waste in some areas so you should check with your waste disposal service provider before disposing of it.

In some areas it may be recommended that liquid resin be taken to a facility where it can be disposed of with other hazardous waste.

3 eco-friendly alternatives to resin

There are more natural and eco-friendly versions of resin. But they cost a little more than synthetic resin.

However, it is a small price to pay for less environmental impact.

But we should also mention that while these products are more eco-friendly, they are still considered somewhat dangerous.

1. EcoPoxy

EcoPoxy resin is a plant-based alternative to epoxy that’s great for crafting.

It is certified by the USDA as a BioPreferred product. There are also different colors and finishes.

2. CCR bioresin

CCR Bioresin can be used for casting and crafting. It is also a biopreferred product.

It consists of 30% bio-based material and is more environmentally friendly than other resins.

3. Seal-Once Eco Friendly Wood Sealer

If you use resin as a wood finish, Seal-Once offers a range of sealer and stain products that are better for the environment than other resins.

Seal-Once is also a member of the U.S. Green Building Council.

Conclusion

Most resin is not an environmentally friendly product as it is derived from crude oil and is made with many harmful chemicals.

The types of resins used for crafting, coating, and sealing are considered dangerous in some places.

Silicone resin is slightly more environmentally friendly, but is not used in liquid form for crafting and coating like epoxy or polyurethane resins.

There are more eco-friendly versions of liquid resin available, but even these contain small amounts of harmful chemicals to help them cure properly, so they’re not 100% eco-friendly or safe.

Even as a beauty editor, I’ve had exactly one gel manicure in my life. It looked great, lasted for weeks and left my nails underneath in the same condition as when it was removed. So much so that I didn’t wear any nail polish for a week afterwards – horrible! – for fear of decomposing the remains of my poor nails. Plus, who needs the risk of extra UV exposure during this curing process on top of the already harrowing removal process?

In case you didn’t know, the “gel” in gel manicures refers to the polymers involved in the curing process, which are usually either incorporated into the nail polish’s formula or applied as a top coat. A polymerisation process takes place under the influence of UV light, during which the molecules bind to one another and harden through a chemical reaction.

With gel manicures being the worker’s top choice for long-lasting polish that can endure the quick tapping and opening of multiple seltzer cans a day, exploring options for a safer “gel” manicure is a must. That’s why brands have recently come up with formulas with gel in the name, but that don’t require UV light to cure and still promise the same smooth, long-lasting results.

MORE: How it works: Gelish gel nail polish

So, what’s the deal with these at-home gel nail polishes? How do they work without the harmful factors that have kept me and many others from the nail weakening effects of an official salon gel? Generally there is more than one step to this. By mixing a “gel formula” nail color with a top coat that contains the other ingredients to cure it, this replaces the UV light step.

You’ll likely find that many of these long-lasting nail polishes say something like “gel effect” to indicate that while they don’t use that exact chemistry, they produce similar results. Sally Hansen’s Miracle Gel Polishes incorporate an advanced color coat containing a molecule called oligomer and a top coat containing a photoinitiator that works with the oligomer to cure the polish with natural light. This curing process continues long after your manicure is dry to the touch and becomes more durable over time. Sounds pretty ideal, right? But perhaps the biggest relief is that you can remove it with regular nail polish remover just as easily as you would any regular nail polish.

Caption Polish contains the so-called LAC3 technology. You guessed it – it’s a 3-step process. It’s a triple-layer fusion dual-polymer technology that uses polyester resin and plant-derived emollients to give you all the benefits of a gel manicure with its three-step system. It claims to dry three times faster than regular nail polish while remaining 3-free and removable with regular nail polish remover without soaking.

Deborah Lippmann’s Gel Lab Pro, on the other hand, lets you mimic the look of a gel manicure using an epoxy resin and polyvinyl butyral base coat to strengthen your actual nail and a dual polymer technology top coat for your high-shine hard finish. The magic of this top coat is in the top coat, allowing you to give a gel finish to pretty much any of your nail polishes. It will definitely extend the hold, but probably not for as long as using a colored nail polish that also has a gel formula. Like the other nail polishes by Deborah Lippmann, the Gel Lab Pro polishes are 5-free.

Although no one can really assess the durability of gel nail polishes, the advancement of gel technology that also includes convenience and safety seems to be an ever increasing trend in nails considering that every lifestyle is different. We’re just happy to see that they live up to their claims, whether they’re true “gel” polishes or just polishes that give you that gel-like wear.

MORE: How to remove gel nail polish

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We have several products that can be used with your mugs and crafts. Most use our Brite Tone (BT) as an alternative to epoxy. BT is a water based product and has a very high solids content so it builds up faster than any other water based product. It’s very different from epoxy in that you need to use multiple thin coats instead of 1 or 2 coats of epoxy. The layers dry quickly and can be recoated every 4 hours. It cannot be used in molds as it is not a pourable product as it has to dry in thin layers. Dyes can be added. We have 8 intermixable concentrated dyes giving you countless color options. Also liquid mica metallic.

When it comes to safety, there is no comparison. All Crystalac products are safe and non-toxic. They are absolutely safe to use – even indoors.

No mixing or released toxic fumes. The only protection needed is when you are sanding or spraying the products. In this case, a mask is recommended. In almost 40 years of manufacturing coatings, we have never reported an allergic reaction. Below is a list of our Tumbler products and what they are used for so you can see what products are being used in the craft market. You can also join our amazing or toxic fumes. The only protection needed is when you are sanding or spraying the products. In this case, a mask is recommended. In almost 40 years of manufacturing coatings, we have never reported an allergic reaction. Below is a list of our Tumbler products and what they are used for so you can see what products are being used in the craft market. You can also join our awesome CrystaLac Tumblers and Crafts (OFFICIAL) Page on FaceBook for great tips on getting started.

Tumbler Kit Products and Use

bases

*Universal White – UW is a great adhesion primer and paint that can be used alone as a white base, or it can be tinted to any pastel to medium base color with one of CraftNique Color Boutique’s concentrated (liquid) pigments. It can be used on wood, metal, ceramic and glass.

*Black Gloss – Black Gloss (stir well) can also be used as a primer for wood, metal, ceramic and glass. CraftNique mica-based metallics can also be added to the black for a unique shimmer effect.

topcoats

*Brite Tone is a very high solids topcoat best used for applying a super clear, high gloss, durable and protective finish to your project

*Extreme Protection is a clear gloss finish (no adhesive) that can be used as a base to apply and seal glitter, mica and decals. Stickers need to be pasted first. It can also be tinted with concentrated (liquid) pigments from CraftNique Color Boutique. Brite Tone is still required as a final top coat.

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*Color Boutique Concentrated Pigments – These are NOT paints – they are dyes used to make paint! CraftNique Color Boutique is a unique coloring system of highly concentrated nano-sized pigment colors that can be easily mixed into any of the CrystaLac or CraftNique bases to create your very own DIY colors, stains, glazes and top coats. We have compiled 8 standard colors that can be used individually or mixed together to create endless color combinations.

*Mica Liquid Metallics – Color Boutique Liquid Mica Metallics are highly concentrated mica pigments incorporated into a liquid solution, making them super easy to use without having to deal with airborne particles – unless you like them in eyes, nose and skin;} 5 super rich sparkling colors (silver, gold, copper, rose and champagne) more choices coming soon! Add directly into The Extreme Protection or Brite Tone, or use directly for an intense color resembling gold leaf. Use about 1 tsp per pint. Adjust more or less to get the look and effect you want. Top coat for protection.

Application:

Proper preparation of your tumbler is a crucial step before using any paint or top coat on it. We recommend a light sanding with 400 grit sandpaper to roughen the surface, then wipe clean with alcohol to remove dust or fingerprints.

Apply CrystaLac products at room temperature (65 to 75 degrees) and allow 3 to 4 hours to dry between coats of color and/or finish. Surfaces will self-level as they dry. Do not use heat guns to force dry. Full healing takes 30 days. You can use cautiously beforehand but it will continue to cure over a 30 day period.

Hand wash only with soap and water and do not expose the mugs to extreme heat.

All products manufactured by The CrystaLac Company are non-toxic, non-hazardous, non-yellowing and perfectly safe to use indoors. Use a mask when sanding or spraying. We’re a family business here in the USA that has been making environmentally friendly coatings for almost 40 years.

Let’s start by examining what resin is

Resin is resin, right? There are so many resin formulas out there. How are you supposed to know what to use in the battle between resin and epoxy?

Resin is a unique chemical compound that has been a part of nature for a very long time. It is a liquid mixture that hardens under certain conditions. This happens when you mix resin with hardener (two-part resins) or expose it to ultraviolet light (UV resin). And maybe you already know the resin of nature – amber.

So what is the difference between resin and epoxy?

Epoxy is a special type of two-part resin. Epoxy resins are the most commonly used type of resin for crafting and creating resin art. Since they are the easiest to dose and mix, I recommend epoxies for resin beginners.

So if you had a battle between resin and epoxy, there would be no winner because epoxy IS a type of resin.

Hm. So what other types of resin are there?

polyurethane resin

These resins have a short pot life. Polyurethane resins only give you a few minutes to mix and pour before it begins to cure.

polyester resin

Polyester resins cure very hard, but you need to know exactly how you’re going to use it so you know how much hardener to add. Also, they really stink.

These two types of resin are fun to tinker with once you get past the messing and making mistakes stage.

BONUS: If you want to learn more about these two types of resin, read this: What are the Different Types of Resin?

How do you know if a resin formula is an epoxy?

You should see this information on the resin kit label or product description. You can also consult a resin’s safety data sheet. Most importantly, if you’re not sure, ask. Using the wrong resin means you could make something ugly, sticky and full of bubbles.

How do I know which epoxy resin is best for my project?

When you understand resin versus epoxy (versus any other formula), it’s similar to buying paint for your house. There are many epoxy resin formulas to choose from.

But ultimately, here’s what you need to know:

There is no one size fits all solution for epoxy resin. We all agree that we want the best epoxy. But first you need to visualize the details of what you want to create.

Are you trying to coat a surface or fill a mold?

Surface coating resins are also known as doming resins. They mix thick and self-level. You will need this type of resin when you want an even, glossy coat of resin on a painting, countertop, mug, or other surface. However, due to their stiff consistency, do not pour doming resins to depths greater than 1/8 inch. It is difficult to release all the bubbles before the resin begins to set.

Your other choice is to use epoxy for molds known as casting resins. They mix very fluidly and quickly release bubbles. They can be poured in up to five centimeters deep and harden without bubbles. Casting resins are what you will want to use when making resin river tables, paperweights and other large resin statuettes. But they don’t level themselves. If you pour them on a flat surface, they leave dimples.

BONUS: There are other differences between these formulas as well. If you want to know more, read the differences between casting resins and doming resins.

How much resin do you want to use at once?

Epoxy resin formulas also vary in how much you can mix at once. Mix too much and the resin will heat up too quickly. Mix too little and it may not get warm enough to harden.

The good news is that we detail this information for you in our guide to buying resins for all of the resins sold in the Resin Obsession Store.

How do you mix epoxy resin?

Epoxy resin kits come with specific mixing instructions. They typically mix by volume with a specific amount of Part A (the resin) with a specific amount of Part B (the hardener). Follow the instructions and do not deviate from the ratios. If you do this, your resin may not cure.

BONUS: If you’re new to the battle between resin and epoxy, here’s how to mix resin and hardener in five easy steps.

How long does resin take to cure?

Curing times are also specific to the resin kit. Some epoxies can cure in as little as eight hours while others take two to three days. Your resin instructions will detail resin drying times.

Of course, it’s difficult to cover everything you need to know when buying a resin. Here are the ten questions you should have answers to before you buy any resin.

Now that you know what the difference between resin and epoxy is, where can you buy that stuff?

Resin Obsession has several epoxy resin formulas to help you create something unique. Plus, you’ll get help from a real resin expert. Not some rando in a booth typing out a script somewhere.

Ready to get started with resin but hesitant to start?

I get it. No one wants to waste an afternoon doing something they wouldn’t show anyone. That’s why I wrote the book Resin Fundamentals. I’ve summarized my 15 years of resin experience into the key facts you need to know to be successful with resin from day one. Buy a copy of the PDF e-book now and you’ll be reading it in minutes!

Unpublished Blog Posts by Resin Obsession, LLC © 2022 Resin Obsession, LLC

It will not work.

You can melt hot glue in a pan, but it tends to turn yellow and eventually brown if it gets too hot. Whether the mold survives casting depends on the material.

The real problem is that hot glue shrinks quite a bit as it cools. The mold surface is cooler than the hot glue, so the outside will set first while the center stays liquid longer. As the center cools and shrinks, it pulls all surface areas toward the center, distorting the object and potentially damaging the shape.

I had this experience with a very small object: a paper cutout of a treasure chest, no larger than 2 x 1 x 1 cm. I wanted to add weight to the object so I filled the whole thing with hot glue. When it cooled, the side panels drew in noticeably and there was a large (relatively speaking) hole at the tip of the hot glue where the top pulled toward the center.

How to use transparent adhesives

Getting ready

Prepare your workspace and surface. Whether you use clear silicone glue or clear glue, make sure your project area is clean. In addition, the surfaces to be bonded must be clean, dry and free from contamination. Also make sure that the temperature in the work area suits your product.

Have fun, but stay healthy! Like many glues, clear glue can irritate your skin and eyes, so only work in a well-ventilated area. Wear gloves and wash your hands after use.

Clear Glue

Application. Apply a thin layer of clear glue to a surface. Immediately after applying the adhesive, glue the parts together and hold or clamp them together (before skin formation), according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Very porous materials will likely require a thicker layer of adhesive, and you may need to apply it to both surfaces.

Wet the surfaces. If both surfaces are non-porous, you may need to pre-wet them with a damp cloth; Check the manufacturer’s instructions. Absorbent substrates are usually water-permeable and do not require pre-moistening.

let it dry The adhesive reaches its maximum strength after complete curing.

Clear silicone adhesive

Apply the silicone. If using a product like Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant, apply it to one of the surfaces to be bonded.

Slightly roughen surfaces. This improves your results when gluing tiles, porcelain or rubber or surfaces.

Clamp and dry. Press the materials together and clamp for the full cure time as specified by the manufacturer.

Clean up

Clean up your workspace and tools. Clean tools and adhesive residue immediately with white spirit (silicone-clear adhesive) or with alcohol, acetone or white spirit (clear adhesive). Hardened sealant can be carefully cut away with a sharp-edged tool.