Chain Link Fence Posts Concrete? The 78 New Answer

How many bags of concrete per fence post?

1-4 bags of concrete per fence post are usually required. This depends on the type of soil, fence construction, height, post size and bag weight. In general, the depth of the post hole should be 1/3 to 1/2 the height of the post above the ground. For example, a six foot high fence post should be buried 2-3 feet underground. It depends on the type of soil and the design of the fence. The diameter of your post hole should be about three times the diameter of your post. So if you are using a 4″ round or 4″ x 4″ square post, your post hole should be 12″ in diameter.

A six foot tall fence post with a 4 inch post would require a hole that is 36 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. To fill a hole that size takes 5 bags of 80 pounds of concrete, but remember you’ll need to subtract the volume of the post you buried. If you factor in the fence post, you will need 4 bags. The best way to determine the size of each fence post hole is:

The diameter of the hole is 3 times the width of the fence post

The depth of the hole is 1/3 to 1/2 the height above the bottom of the fence post

Once you have determined the size of your holes, you can use the chart below to work out how many concrete bags you need per fence post.

How many concrete bags per fence post chart

Here’s an easy-to-follow chart to help you determine how many concrete bags you need per fence post. I’ve estimated all bags at £50 to make things easier.

If you want to use different sized bags, you can easily figure that out with some basic math. Add the total weight of the bags, then divide by your bag size. For example, a 4″ post with a 12″ hole requires a 10″ depth and 2 x 50 lb concrete bags. Put them together and you get 100 pounds of concrete.

If you divide the total weight by your bag size, say 80 pounds, it comes to 1 1/4 bags.

3″ Post | 9″ Hole 4″ Post | 12″ Hole 6″ Post | 18″ hole depth bag depth bag depth bag 10 1 10 2 10 4 12 1 12 2 12 4 14 2 14 2 14 5 16 2 16 3 16 5 18 2 18 3 18 6 20 2 20 3 20 6 22 2 22 3 22 7 24 2 24 4 24 7 26 2 26 4 26 8 28 3 28 4 28 9 30 3 30 4 30 10 32 3 32 5 32 10 34 3 34 5 34 10 36 3 36 5 36 11

What is the best concrete mix for fence posts?

Fast setting concrete is great for installing fence posts as it comes pre-mixed and is super easy to use.

In my opinion, the two best concrete mixes for setting fence posts are:

Quick setting concrete mix

Concrete mix for fence posts Sakrete

Both concrete mixtures are pre-mixed and can be poured dry into the hole. This can save a lot of time and labor. And both take about 20 to 40 minutes to set up, which can make you even faster. The exact curing times depend on the outside temperature and humidity.

I recommend waiting at least 4-6 hours before installing your fence sections. Any standard concrete mix works well for setting fence posts if you’re not in a hurry. I just prefer quick setting mixes because they are so easy to use.

If you’re using regular seeding mix instead of quick seeding mix, you should wait until the next day to start building your fence.

I recommend pouring your concrete when the air temperature is between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit and when it’s dry outside. The only water you want in the hole is what you pour into it. If it’s too hot outside, the concrete could crack. Too cold and it won’t set properly. Both are bad results because they weaken the concrete.

Should I use concrete for fence posts?

A fence is only as strong as its foundation. And concrete is very strong and durable. It’s a great way to anchor fence posts to keep your fence strong and level. This is especially important if you live in a windy area, as a gust of wind can generate a lot of force.

There is also an advantage to using concrete if you have a heavy fence. The more force that is applied to the fence, the stronger the posts need to be.

Setting a fence post in concrete provides a strong stable base for your posts. This assumes you dug the right size hole and used the right amount of bags. If you dig too shallow or don’t use enough bags, you may not get the power you need.

Here are a few tips to keep in mind when setting your posts in concrete:

When using a wooden fence post, pressure treated or naturally weather resistant wood will last the longest. If you use a wood post that is not weather treated, use a preservative or the post will rot. Make sure you use a base layer of gravel under the concrete to allow rainwater to run off. Tapere the top of the concrete away from the fence post to allow water to drain off the post. Caulk the post where it comes out of the concrete. A small crack can allow water in, which can eventually weaken the post. Concrete is great for metal, concrete or wooden fence posts and all types of fencing.

How much concrete for a 3×3 fence post?

A 3 inch diameter fence post will require a post hole about 9 inches in diameter. The depth below ground should be about 1/3 the height of the post above ground. For example, a 6 foot tall post will require a hole about 2 feet deep.

The table below shows you how many concrete bags you need for a 9″ diameter hole at different depths.

Deep 50 lb bags 10″-12″ 1 14″-26″ 2 27″-36″ 3

Numbers are based on a fence post 6 feet above ground and 2 feet below ground.

How much concrete for a 4×4 fence post?

A 4″ diameter fence post requires a post hole of about 12″ diameter. The depth below ground should be about 1/3 the height of the post above ground. For example, a 5 foot tall post will require a hole about a foot and a half deep.

The table below shows you how many concrete bags you need for a 12″ diameter hole at different depths.

Deep 50 lb bags 10″-14″ 2 16″-22″ 3 24″30″ 4 32″36″ 5

Numbers are based on a fence post 6 feet above ground and 2 feet below ground.

How much concrete for a 6×6 fence post?

A 6″ diameter fence post requires an 18″ diameter post hole. The depth below ground should be about 1/3 the height of the post above ground. For example, a 7 foot tall post will require a hole about two and a half feet deep.

The table below shows you how many concrete bags you need per fence post for an 18″ diameter hole that is between 10 and 36 inches deep.

Deep 50 lb bags 10″-12″ 4 13″-17″ 5 18″-21″ 6 22″-25″ 7 26″-28″ 8 28″-30″ 9 32″-36″ 10

Numbers are based on a fence post 6 feet above ground and 2 feet below ground.

Does the soil condition play a role?

Yes. You can adjust the depth and hole size a bit depending on the soil conditions. I would say about 10% – 15% should be safe. But I personally always exaggerate everything and go big. I’d rather have my fence posts filled with more than enough concrete than not enough.

As with any construction project, you must make decisions based on site conditions. These measurements are all just a general guide. Every fence is different. Every garden is different and so are the weather conditions your fence will be exposed to. Adjust as needed. I encourage you to do what I do and when in doubt, go bigger.

Let’s say you’re installing a fence post in really dense ground that’s rocky or a lot of clay. You can get away with a smaller hole because the ground is so strong. In order for the fence post to tip over the ground, it must also yield, and this is more difficult in dense ground.

Now let’s say you have sandy soil that offers very little resistance or power. In this case I would go with a bigger and deeper hole. Because the ground doesn’t offer much power, you need to get off the concrete more.

If you have regular soil with some grass I would stick to the sizes listed in the charts.

Cement or concrete for fence posts?

Be sure to use concrete instead of cement for a fence post.

Concrete is made by mixing cement, stones and sand with water. The stone and sand aggregate provides a lot of strength while the cement holds everything together. Concrete is extremely strong, durable and weather resistant. And it’s very heavy, which makes it a great anchor for a post. There’s a reason almost every major foundation, building, bridge, and dam uses it.

Cement is weaker and prone to cracking. It is a good binder, as a very thin coating or as a filler such as grout. But I don’t recommend using cement for anything structural like holding a fence post.

Is Quikrete the same as concrete for fence posts?

Yes. These charts are all designed for 50 pound bags of ready mix concrete. Quikrete is the brand I usually use, but Sakrete is another good one. There are many manufacturers that sell factory mixed bagged concrete. Just make sure you buy the right PSI for the job. I like to use at least 3500 when setting a fence post.

I also recommend using quick setting concrete. This makes the job a lot easier because I can start erecting my fence sections the same day.

Call before you dig

For most homeowners, you should request a marker every time you dig anywhere on your property. Unless you live somewhere in the country with acres of land, there might be some underground utilities that you could meet.

Striking a gas or power line while digging can be very dangerous. So make sure your local utilities mark the lines before you dig. Here in New Jersey, it’s a free service and only lasts a few days, so there’s really no reason not to call.

Also, contact your local building control office for zoning, permitting, or other requirements.

Summary: How many bags of concrete per fence post?

1-4 bags of concrete per fence post are usually required. This depends on the type of soil, fence construction, height, post size and bag weight. In general, the depth of the post hole should be 1/3 to 1/2 the above ground height of the post. For example, a six foot high fence post should be buried 2-3 feet underground. It depends on the type of soil and the design of the fence. The diameter of your post hole should be about three times the diameter of your post. So if you are using a 4″ round or 4″ x 4″ square post, your post hole should be 12″ in diameter. A six foot tall fence post with a 4 inch post would require a hole that is 36 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter.

To fill a hole that size takes 5 bags of 80 pounds of concrete, but remember you’ll need to subtract the volume of the post you buried. If you factor in the fence post, you will need 4 bags. The best way to determine the size of each fence post hole is:

The diameter of the hole is 3 times the width of the fence post

The depth of the hole is 1/3 to 1/2 the height above the bottom of the fence post

Once you’ve determined the size of your holes, you can use the chart above to work out how many concrete bags you’ll need per fence post.

If you have any questions or comments about Quikrete, you can always email us.

project guide

Always use proper safety precautions when working with cement-based products, including wearing eye protection, nitrile gloves and a mask.

Step 1

Dig the post hole so that the diameter of the hole is three times the width of the post (i.e. the hole for a 4″ wood post should be about 12″ wide). The depth of the hole should be 1/3-1/2 the height of the post from the ground (i.e. a 6 foot high fence would require a hole depth of at least 2 feet).

step 2

Insert about 6 inches of QUIKRETE all-purpose gravel into the bottom of the hole. Then compact and level the gravel with a post or 2×4.

step 3

Place the post in the hole and attach 2×4 brackets to the adjacent sides of the post.

step 4

Use a spirit level to position the post perfectly vertical.

step 5

Fill the hole with quick set concrete to 3 to 4 inches below ground level.

step 6

Pour about one gallon of water per 50 lb bag into the hole and allow the water to saturate the concrete mix.

NOTE: The mixture will harden in 20 to 40 minutes

step 7

Wait about 4 hours before beginning construction of your fence or placing heavy weight on your post.

Shopping List

50 lb QUIKRETE Rapid Concrete

50 lb QUIKRETE all-purpose gravel

Posts made of pressure-treated wood or posts made of galvanized metal

Even

5 gallon bucket

measuring bucket

post hole dredger

gloves

safety goggles

(Optional)

Disclosure: We may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Many people choose to build their own fences as a DIY project, but there are some difficulties to consider before making the decision. Doing it yourself will save you some money on labor costs, but installing the fence correctly takes a lot of careful planning and hard work. One consideration is should the chain link fence touch the ground? We’ve reviewed the best practices for installing a chain link fence to get the answer for you.

In general, it is not recommended that a chain link fence touches the ground. Ground contact makes the underside of the fence more susceptible to corrosion. It can also make garden maintenance difficult. However, exceptions depend on the purpose of the fence. The fence that touches the ground can prevent rodents and other small animals from entering garden areas. Pet owners can also benefit from installing the fence this way, as ground contact can deter small breed dogs and other pets from digging under.

Now that you know that you can determine whether or not the chain link fence can touch the ground, think about the purpose of the fence. Once you’re deciding how to install the fence, read on to learn how to bury fence posts and tighten chain link netting to secure your fence.

Plan ahead for DIY fence installation

Before you dig, you must first check your local zoning laws and check with the homeowners association to ensure your fence legally meets their guidelines. You will also need to contact your local utility companies to do a free survey of your property to mark any underground utilities. It may not be a legal requirement to notify your neighbors in advance, but it is considered common courtesy. If you follow these steps before you dig the first hole, you can save yourself a lot of trouble later.

The weather should also be considered before construction, as rain and other severe weather can affect concreting. Unusually hot or cool temperatures can also affect fencing materials, causing them to swell or contract. Ideally, it is best to install the fence on a warm day when no rain is forecast for the next few days.

Once the location of the fence is determined, the next step is to determine exactly how many materials you will need. Chain link fence posts are usually no more than ten feet apart. Certain fence sections may also come in unique sizes, and builders may need to modify them accordingly to fit. Knowing how long each section is for the type of fence you are building can also help with better planning where to dig the posts. You should consider these inconsistencies before purchasing the materials, and many builders recommend always measuring everything twice for complete accuracy.

How deep should chain links be?

Post holes should be placed about four inches from your property line to avoid a potential title dispute. Connection posts should be buried at least 60 cm deep, with taller fences going deeper. Some builders recommend burying a third of the fence post to be safe.

The holes should be dug about three times wider than the diameter of the post. You can then fill in about six inches of gravel around the fence post before topping it up with quick setting concrete. Repeat the process for the other posts, remembering when measuring that all posts should be the same height from bottom to top. The concrete must then cure for three or four days before the posts are loaded.

Do chain link fence posts need concrete?

Alternatively, there are other methods to install fence posts without concrete.

dirt filling

Using dirt, one option is to use a post hole digger to drill a hole deep enough to accommodate the post. In this case, the hole should be only slightly larger than the posts so that it can be filled with soil as tightly as possible. Do not try to drive the posts further into the ground as this could cause them to warp. While this method saves money on concrete, it’s only recommended for temporary fences that are going to be manually removed soon after. Fences posted in this manner are likely to be shifted and leaned from the posts for long periods of time.

Click here to see this snail on Amazon.

gravel fill

The holes can also be filled with gravel, although this method is less durable than concrete. It doesn’t work particularly well in sandier soils and is better used with heavier soils. As with concrete, about a third of the fence post should be buried in a hole much wider than the post. Insert crushed gravel into the hole about five inches at a time and press firmly before adding more.

Continue the process until you reach the top of the hole. Optionally, leave about two inches of space and fill in with soil if you want grass to grow around the pole. This method does not require you to wait several days for the bars to set like you would with concrete.

Install tension bands and post caps

In any case, after the posts have been set, tensioning straps must be attached to every corner, goal and end post. These are used to hold the trellis in place and the number you need depends on the height of the fence. For gate posts, hinges and locking hardware should be placed close to where they will be installed and they can be secured when the gate is in place.

The Post Caps also need to be installed on each post and this is best accomplished using a rubber mallet to hammer them in. At this point, insert the rails into the rail caps and once installed at the correct height, tighten the tension straps and firmly fill all of the conduit post holes with dirt.

How tight should a chain link fence be?

The tightness of the network must also be taken into account. If the fence isn’t strong enough, the mesh will sag over time. Using a fence puller can help stretch the net into a much more secure state.

Click here to see this Chain Link Fence Support Pole on Amazon.

Ideally, you want the stitch loops to move no more than ¼ inch when you pinch them. During the tensioning process, the fence can be reshaped manually if the fence puller has distorted it. You can secure the tautness of the net with a tension rod on the end post. To prevent animals from getting through, guy wire can be used at the bottom of the fence.

in summary

If the process seems too daunting, it may be better to pay for the peace of mind by having the fence professionally installed. If you’re unsure, it’s worth spending some time weighing the options before deciding what’s right for you. Ultimately, whether your fence touches the ground or not depends on how you intend to use the fence, as a barrier to wildlife or a safe boundary for pets to have ground contact is fine.

Chain link fence installation guide

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Read more: How to Install Chain Link Fence (PDF) | Chain Link Installation Tutorial (PDF) | Overview of the chain link fencing system

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Before you start:

Step 1 – Obtain the necessary zoning and building permits. There may be local zoning or deed restrictions on the height and type of fence and/or gate. Find out about property line requirements. Find survey needles if you want the fence to be near property lines, or have the property surveyed.

Step 2 – Measure the fence material and locate the placement of the gate.

Step 3 – Call 811 before you dig. Notify your local or state utility protection service to locate potential underground utilities. There is usually no cost to locating utilities, but there can be a hefty charge to repair buried utilities, not to mention possible personal injury.

Step 4 – Shop your chain link fence at HooverFence.com.

Tools needed for installation:

Unpacking and checking the fence shipment:

Prepare for the delivery of your HooverFence.com fence. Chain link fence orders can arrive on small and large trucks, covered trailers and picket fence trucks. Forklifts are not usually required, but be prepared to unload fence tubing, chain link reels, sacks and crates of chain link fittings by hand. First, we recommend that you carefully unpack and inspect your shipment to ensure you have all of your materials. Make sure you go through and read all of the instructions at this point. While installing the fence is relatively easy, this online guide should take all the guesswork out. If you have any questions or problems installing the fence, please give us a call. Read more: Shipping Policy.

Set Fence Lines:

You determine the future fence line by using the stakes and string to stake out the area to be fenced.

Step 1 – Drive the stakes a foot or two away from where you want to place the Corner and End Posts; This allows you to drill/dig holes without obstacles. It can also allow you to “drop” the cord when digging holes for fence posts. Be careful not to bump or dislodge the stakes. If you remove the tendon to dig holes, be sure to stretch the tendon back to how it was before you removed it.

Step 2 – Tightly stretch the masonry leader between these posts. This cord represents the position of the fence and serves as a guide when setting posts. Posts are cast in concrete or driven 1/8-1/4″ from the stringline.

Step 3 – Intermediate posts may be required for longer fence sections. Be sure to pull the string taut, as a string that sags or moves with the wind will cause the posts to be misadjusted. Remember that the fence can only be as straight as the leader line.

Step 4 – First locate the goal posts and mark their position with reversed post hole marker paint. Next, measure each fence section. Chain link fence posts are usually spaced a maximum of ten feet apart. Space the posts evenly for aesthetic reasons, but no more than ten feet between posts. If you plan to install privacy blinds or other materials that will increase wind loads, consider using 8-foot or 6-foot post spacing. Also consider the scaffolding, i. H. Posts and railings, upgrade to a larger diameter and thicker wall thickness. Heavier chain link frames such as HF20 and/or HF40 are an excellent choice for use with chain link fencing with aluminum diagonal or PVC privacy battens or privacy screens.

marker color

post location

Creating square corners using the 3-4-5 method:

Step 1 – Pull the string along the two adjacent sides as shown in the drawing. Step 2 – Measure and mark 3′ down on a line. Step 3 – Measure and mark 4′ down on the other line. Step 4 – Measure diagonally between the two marks and adjust the lines to measure 5′. Note: For greater accuracy, use measurements in multiples of 3-4-5, such as e.g. 6-8-10 etc.

Setting up posts:

Typical post layout

Correct the shape of the post hole

Step 1 – Post hole sizes may vary depending on geographic location, fence height, and fence materials used. Generally for residential chain link fences, dig holes 6 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep (or below the frost line in your area). Another rule of thumb is to dig the holes three times the diameter of the post, i.e. a 2″ diameter post would require a 6″ diameter hole, and one third the height of the fence that is above ground, stick in the ground. Typically, goalpost holes are dug larger in diameter and deeper to withstand the added stress of a moving goal. The guide string can be temporarily removed prior to excavation to prevent cutting. Be sure to replace it as it was originally stretched.

Holes for chain link fence posts can be dug by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars, small gas powered augers, or skid steer loaders with hydraulic augers. Size your auger bit according to the height and nature of the fencing material to be installed.

If you need to place a fence post near an existing structure, drilling close to the structure is still better than digging by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars from scratch. Here a hole was drilled as securely as possible to the existing fence. The hole is hand dug or “shaved” to allow it to sit closer to the existing fence.

Holes next to buildings often have to be dug by hand. Be careful as drain pipes and other utility lines may be near foundations.

Some obstacles like the above can be difficult to handle. In this case, a post can be bent to miss the pipe. First measure the depth of the bend.

Notice how the post stays firmly attached to the house, but is still dug into the depth with an adequate foot of concrete.

Step 2 – Re-tighten the guide line and check the holes visually and/or by placing a post in the hole and plumbing in all directions for accuracy. If the hole needs to be “shaved” or moved, do it now. If the holes are shallow because you hit an object you can’t remove, “bell” the hole below. To “bell” a hole, use a post hole digger and/or spud bar to make the bottom of the hole larger than the top. This further anchors the concrete foot that supports your fence. ‘Belling’ compensates for holes up to 18 inches deep. If necessary, move the hole slightly to avoid obstacles. This changes your post spacing. In the case of line piles, however, this is not harmful. If you need to move more than a few feet, consider installing an additional post in the center of the extended space. Other ways to deal with obstacles include bending posts underground and welding plates to posts to attach them to large rocks.

Check the hole position before filling with concrete mix. The hole should not be perfectly centered under the string; It should be slightly offset to center the post in the concrete base. If necessary, insert the post into the empty hole and check the plumb with a spirit level. The post should be spaced about 1/8-1/4″. If not, the fence post hole will need to be “shaved”.

After the holes for the fence posts have been dug and cleaned, check that each hole is in the correct location. If you can’t see it visually, place the post in the hole and plumb the post. The post must be perpendicular and placed 1/8″-1/4″ from the leader. Fence Tip: Be sure to dig fence post holes the correct depth and diameter for your area. Northern regions have deeper frost depths than the southern part of the country. 30-36″ deep concrete feet will suffice for most fence installations.

Step 3 – Mix concrete with water using a pre-mixed bag. Just walk on the water. The mixture should look like thick gray mud, not mom’s watered-down chili. If it doesn’t pile up on the scoop, it’s too thin; add more mixture to dry it. When mixing from scratch using aggregate such as gravel, limestone or shell, concrete sand and Portland cement, mix 3 to 4 parts (shovels) aggregate to 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

Smaller fencing projects are often erected with pre-mixed bagged concrete. Often sold in hardware stores, 40, 60, and 80 pound bags are usually readily available for your fencing project. Calculate your concrete requirements for fence posts using HooverFence.com’s Concrete Calculator.

Premixed bags of concrete can be mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow with a shovel, or with a gas-powered or electric-powered cement mixer. Mix concrete to a “thick milkshake”-like consistency. Don’t mix too wet or the soupy texture will cause the posts to sink or the concrete won’t set at all.

For small chain link fencing where the job can be set and stretched in the same day, using a small amount of Quik Rok or another brand of quick setting hydraulic cement with regular premixed cement can save time and an extra trip to the job site.

Quik Rok Rapid Setting Hydraulic Cement is available in 5 gallon pails and is a powder-like material that can be used alone for small holes (coring cement). You can also mix about a scoopful of this baking-flour-like material with a wheelbarrow full of regular cement. Fence Tip: Some fence specification work requires concrete feet to be poured to the top, capped and spackled. Use a pointed trowel for a better look.

Step 4 – Mark the postgrade mark. End, corner and gate posts should be marked at the height of the fence plus 1 inch; 49 inches for a 4-foot fence, 61 inches for a 5-foot fence, etc. Mark intermediate or line posts at the height of the fence minus 3 inches; 45″ for 4′ fence, 57″ for 5′ fence etc. If you add your post cap and top rail the height will be accurate. Height markings represent the bottom of the fence and are essential for setting posts at the correct depth. If you bury the post that hides the height marker by 1 inch you will need to dig a trench to bury the fence here. If your height mark is 3 inches off the ground, your fence will be 3 inches off the ground and you’d better plan this and trim it later or fill it under the fence if a tight fit is required.

For chain link fencing, line posts (intermediate posts) should be marked with a height marker that is 3″ less than the height of the fence to be installed. This is where a 6 foot high fence will be installed. Line posts are marked at 5′-9″. . Fence Tip: Vinyl coated wire mesh is more resilient than galvanized mesh and may “shrink” slightly when stretched. Subtract an additional 1/2 inch if setting posts for a vinyl-covered fabric fence.

With chain link fences, end posts, i. H. End Posts, Corner Posts and Gate Posts, marked 1″ more than the height of the fence to be installed. For a 6 foot chain link fence, mark the posts at 6 feet to 1 inch. . Fence Tip: After setting, place a spare piece of tubing or a post that has not yet been set on top of the gate post and align these posts. Gates are usually perfectly square.

Step 5 – Fill holes with wet cement. Don’t fill too many and risk the concrete setting before you can “glue” your posts. Don’t fill the holes with concrete to the brim, leave the concrete 3-4″. Filling the hole completely with cement is a common mistake. When this is done, water will collect under that “lip” of concrete. When it freezes, the ground literally presses down on the concrete base and “lifts” the post up, much like squeezing a tube of toothpaste.

Once the fence post holes have been dug and cleaned (making sure to clear the post holes of loose dirt and debris), shovel cement into the holes until they are almost full. Drop the cement from the soil surface (degrees) about 3″. Holes should also be larger in diameter at the bottom than at the top, “bell-shaped”. Holes shaped like a carrot can lift prematurely.

Fence post holes can be filled virtually as fast as the batches of cement can be mixed and poured. Often another person can follow the person filling in the holes and “stick” the fence posts. To “stick” fence posts is simply to push the posts into a hole that has already been filled with cement, plumb and close to the stringline.

Fill post holes with concrete mix. Don’t fill holes completely. This can cause posts to lift prematurely.

Step 6 – Glue the post. Most chain link posts can be installed by first pouring the cement into the hole and then “sticking” the post into the wet cement. Simply slide the post into the cement mix in the center of the hole. Place the binding posts as close to the string as possible without touching the string. Setline posts approximately 1/8″-1/4″ off-string. This will account for the differences in fence post diameters. Another way to set posts is for one person to hold the post perpendicular to the plumb line while another shovels concrete mix around the post. The first method outlined is actually simpler, a more efficient method of setting fence posts and ensuring that there is concrete around, under and within the post.

Chain link fence posts should be “taped down” to their respective height markings and anchored with leader cords. Fill in loose dirt and gently step on the dirt surrounding the posts to help hold them up too high. If posts are sinking on you, the concrete is too wet or holes have filled with water.

You can and should put your posts in their holes and check them up to the string line with a spirit level if you are unsure if the post holes were dug in the right place. It can be very frustrating when holes are not checked for accuracy and then filled with cement. You’ll find that you’re trying to stick posts in the dirt surrounding the dug hole, but they’re buried in cement. When this happens, pull the post, re-dig the hole, and try to catch up with your crew!

On sloping terrain it is sometimes necessary to intentionally set posts high with the height markings exposed. The chain link height is actually higher when measured diagonally. When in doubt, measure the square with the bias to estimate the finished height of the fabric. Chain link is remarkably versatile and can be installed on any terrain. Fence tip: If in doubt, leave the post high and cut it off later. This is a lot easier than trying to increase the height of a chain link fence post!

After the chain link fence posts have been “clamped” in place, check that the cement level is correct. If the concrete level is too low, you should pour more cement. Fence Tip: Avoid pushing away your leader line to fill holes with cement when someone else is using it to ‘glue’ posts!

Set the posts to the depth of the grading mark first. Be sure to place fence posts close to buildings where animal containment is important.

Step 7 – After setting each post for the slope, backfill with soil and step on the backfill to hold the post level. Repeat for all posts in that fence length.

After “pogging” the post into the hole with concrete mix, fill it up with loose dirt. Lower the post while stepping on dirt around the post. This will help keep the post vertical in the hole.

Step 8 – View Post. To “see” inside posts, stand at the end of the fence and look over the tops of the posts. Adjust the height of the posts as needed to accommodate gradual pitches and changes in grade. The goal is to have smooth transitions between posts and avoid sharp changes. This is easiest to do with two people: one person sights the post while the other aligns and checks the post plummet. Be sure to check each post plumb after adjusting and observe the grading mark as noted above.

Once the posts are level, look over the tops of the erected posts and raise or lower them slightly to level the top of the fence. Remember, if you bury your grade mark slightly on one or more posts, plan to dig the same amount for the chain link fabric. The grade marks represent the bottom of the chain link fence. If your grade mark is 4 inches off the ground, that is your fence and you can fill in underneath.

Note: Although most fences are simply installed to be level or flow with the contour of the terrain, some applications are better off being perfectly level, e.g. If excavation, grading or asphalt/concrete is to be poured later or is already in place, the fence may need to be installed perfectly level. If this is the case, sifting with grade marks, using a plumb line with a spirit level, or a crossbar helps immensely.

Step 9 – Install gate posts with the exact opening size as recommended by the gate supplier or manufacturer. The opening dimension is the distance between the two goal posts from the inside to the inside. If possible, level the tops of the goalposts by placing a post over the tops of the posts and checking with a spirit level. If the ground below the goal drops sharply, level the goal posts. It won’t look right to level them.

Step 10 – Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding with work.

Installation of post fittings:

Typical diagram for attaching terminal posts

View of the bottom support strap for the bottom wire and four tension straps for a 5 foot high chain link fence. View is from the inside of the fence. Note that the straps are offset so that the flat side faces out.

End post with tightening strap screwed to rail end cap. All nuts face the inside of the chain link fence casing.

Combo rail end caps (with holes in them for truss rods) can be used for the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail to connect the fence rail to the end posts.

Proper installation of rail end caps and strut tape for a chain link fence corner post. Note that one is facing up and the other is facing down. This means that the upper rail can also remain at such an intersection.

A chain link turnbuckle with nut and bolt and 5 turnbuckles are used for a 6 foot high chain link fence.

Here barbed wire arms are used as loop caps for a 6ft high plus 1ft barbed wire link fence.

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

Step 1 – Attach Tie Down Straps to End and Corner Posts.

Step 2 – Number of straps per hanger = fence height minus one; at least three. For example, a 4 foot high chain link fence requires three tension straps per post.

Step 3 – A hook-up is any connection of a chain link to an end or corner post. End posts have a connector; Corner posts have two connectors.

Step 4 – First attach a support strap that will be used when installing the lower guy wire. This fitting requires a standard 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ fence bolt and nut. Install the nut and bolt loosely.

Step 5 – Next, install tension straps. The straps are offset. The offset (flat side) faces out, the same side that the chain link webbing will be installed on. This is usually the outside of the enclosed area. Do not attach nuts and bolts to these.

Step 6 – Place one support band per hook-up over the tension bands. This attachment requires a rail end cap, bolt and nut. This tape and cup will be used for the top rail. Tighten with ratchet and nut.

Step 7 – The rail end cap is also relocated. This offset can be up or down on an end post. Regardless of whether you position the cup up or down, stay consistent. Since two sets of strut straps and rail end caps must share the same space at a corner, the bottom rail end cap must be moved up and the bottom rail end cap moved down. This allows the two cups to be level with each other, allowing your top rail to insert into the cups and be level with each other.

Step 8 – Usually all the nuts are kept on the inside of the fence; This prevents someone from outside from easily removing the nuts. For high security applications, the threads on the bolt can be “hammered” to prevent easy removal. To do this, use a hammer and chisel, twisting the threads on the bolt so that the nut cannot be removed.

Step 9 – Place the Post Caps onto the Posts. The end and corner post caps are simple. There is only one way to install them. The loop caps, as they are called, are offset if you look closely. The offset side faces the outside of the case; The same side as the chain link is installed. Chain link loop caps are available in aluminum or pressed steel with an electroplated finish. If barbed wire is to be installed, substitute barbed wire in place of the standard chain link fence loop caps. Chain Link 3 Wire Barbarms are available in 45 Degree Barbarm, Straight Vertical Barbarm and Adjustable Barbarm. We also stock a 6 core barbarm.

Fence Tip: You can pre-squeeze ribbons after they’ve been slid onto posts. This is essentially done by clamping tensioning straps and tensioning straps together with fence pliers. Make sure the screw holes stay aligned as you press the straps shut. Later, when you connect the chain link pulley to the end posts, you’ll be thankful that the straps were pre-compressed, as you can now put your 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nut and bolt through and thread the fence nut much easier one.

Installing the top/bottom rail:

Typical top rail assembly diagram

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

The offset of the loop cap faces outwards. This will help keep the frame flush with the fabric side of the chain link fence.

The top rail sits on top of the line posts and runs to the end posts.

1-3/8″ and 1-5/8″, popular top rail sizes, are available with curved or plain ends. Plain End Top Rail requires sleeves as shown above.

Chain link fence top rail with plain ends requires top rail sleeves. The heavy industrial top rail HF40 is only available with plain ends.

The HF20 top rail and lighter are available with a beveled end, no sleeve required.

A hacksaw, chop saw, saw tooth, pipe cutter, or portable band saw is used to cut the top rail.

Chain link fence with finished top rail. After the frame, the chain link fabric can be stretched.

Step 1 – Slide the top rail through a couple of loop caps and the butt end firmly into the rail end cap. If necessary, adjust the height of the rail end cap. Tighten rail end cap firmly.

Step 2 – Some top rails have a “bent” end that tapers down to fit another piece of rail. Fit the unkeyed end into the rail end cap on the end or corner post.

Step 3 – Add rail sections by sliding each unupset end into an upset end. Be sure to slide the rails toward your starting point to “seat” them fully into each other. Press hard. If the top rail doesn’t have a beveled end, you’ll need a “sleeve” to act as a coupler.

Step 4 – Add an additional top rail until you reach the next end post i.e. H. End, corner, goal posts.

Step 5 – Cut off excess rail with hacksaw or pipe cutter. Carefully mark the separation point so the rail fits snugly into the rail end cap. Any slack in your entire length of track will allow the chain link, when taut, to pull the end posts towards each other. Tip: Each piece of track should be supported by two posts. Do not cut the rail so that there is a seam between the last line post and the end post. This point is weak and tends to sag.

Step 6 – Install the top rail in all fence sections. At this point, visually check the height of the line posts once the top rail is installed. If a post is too tall, remove the rail and trim as needed.

Fence Tip: If a post is 1/4″ too short, you can also cut a piece of tubing the same diameter as the conduit post and slip it under the loop cap.

NOTE: Industrial construction sites occasionally substitute a top guy wire in place of the top rail to reduce costs. If this is the case, you will need to brace and guy the end posts. Read more: How to brace and tie chain link fencing.

Install guy wire:

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4

Guy wire can be installed at the top and/or bottom of a chain link fence. The top tension wire helps reduce costs when used in place of the top rail. The bottom wire helps deter animals from digging and pushing out the underside of the fabric. It is often used with vinyl coated chain links as they tend to be more elastic. When tensioned, both types of wire are attached to the chain link with hog rings. It is easiest to install if one person holds the coil of wire upright while the other “leads” the loose end to the other end of the fence. The next step is to secure the loose end to the connector post with a tie wrap and nut and bolt. The loose end is fed through the stud and wrapped around the wire itself (Figs. 1 & 2). The lower tension wire is installed on the same side of the posts as the chain link fabric (Fig. 4). Once the chain link is stretched, the lower tension wire is “pinched” between the line/intermediate posts and the chain link fabric (Fig 10). When used as a top wire, thread the guy wire through the loop caps and connect to each connector post.

Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8

Guy wire is most commonly stretched with a come-a-long and wire grip. Do not wrap the Come-a-long cord around the post (Fig. 5). This repeated action will result in the cable becoming frayed and destroyed. Instead, a “sling” of rope or cable can be made to wrap around the expansion post (Fig. 6). Unthread and pull out 6-10 feet of cable from the carriage. The length of the cable to be pulled out depends on the length of the tension wire. Hook a cable puller to the ratchet end of the Come-A-Long. Fasten the tensioning wire to the cable (Fig. 7). Rotate the Come-a-long handle until the tension wire is taut (Figs. 7 & 9). Do not overtighten, otherwise damage or injury may result.

Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 12

Biegen Sie bei festgekurbeltem Come-A-Long den Spanndraht dort, wo er sich in die Mutter und den Bolzen einschleifen würde. Als nächstes schneiden Sie 6-8 Zoll hinter dieser Biegung mit einem Bolzenschneider. Seien Sie vorsichtig, da beide Enden des Drahtes durch die Spannung „peitschen“ und gefährlich sein können. Fischen Sie das geschlungene Ende des Drahtes durch die Mutter und den Bolzen und wickeln Sie es wie zuvor. Entriegeln Sie den Langdraht, wiederholen Sie den Vorgang für andere Zaunläufe. Hinweis: Kurze Längen, ca. 12′ und weniger, sind mit einem Langdraht schwierig zu machen. Diese werden oft einfach von Hand gemacht. Der Spanndraht hat natürlich Crimps darin. Mit der Verwendung einer Zange in ihrer offenen Position können diese Crimps weiter gecrimpt werden, wodurch der Draht fester wird (Abb. 8). Achten Sie darauf, über die gesamte Länge zu crimpen, um ein einheitliches Aussehen zu erhalten.

Abbildung 13 Abbildung 14 Abbildung 15 Abbildung 16

Sobald der Spanndraht installiert ist, kann das Kettengliedgewebe gedehnt werden. Das Kettenglied wird mit Spannstangen, Spannbändern und Muttern und Schrauben an Endpfosten installiert. Häufig wird ein Ende der Einfachheit halber mit aufrecht stehender Rolle installiert (Abb. 14). Die Rolle kann dann flach auf den Boden gelegt und zum anderen Ende gerollt werden. Zusätzliche Rollen können leicht hinzugefügt werden, und das Weben erfolgt problemlos auf dem flachen Boden. Das Kettenglied wird für längere Strecken (20 Fuß oder mehr) mit einer Verlängerungs- und Spreizstange gedehnt. Für kürzere Strecken (20 Fuß oder weniger) wird ein Pul-Jak verwendet (Abb. 15). Da Spannbänder in gleichem Abstand voneinander installiert werden, kann normalerweise das untere Stützband, das den Spanndraht hält, so eingestellt werden, dass der Spanndraht auf der unteren Raute des Gewebes zentriert ist. Die obere Schiene, die Linienpfosten werden zuletzt gebunden. Hog-Ringe werden installiert, um den Spanndraht mit einer Hog-Ring-Zange am Kettengliedgewebe zu befestigen.

Stretching-Kettenglied-Gewebe:

Hängen Sie den Maschendrahtzaun an einen Endpfosten und rollen Sie ihn zum anderen Ende aus. Kettengliederrollen bei längeren Strecken am besten flach auslegen.

Spannen Sie den Maschendrahtzaun mit einer Spannstange, einem Langlauf und einer Spannstange.

Bei längeren Zaunstrecken ist ein Antritt erforderlich.

Ein Pul-Jak ist das ideale Werkzeug für kurze Zaunabschnitte. Entfernen Sie ein Gewebe, um den Stoff auf die richtige Länge zu „schneiden“.

Spannbänder mit 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ Muttern und Schrauben befestigen. Stellen Sie die Höhe vor dem Festziehen ein. Ansicht des Zauns von innen: Beachten Sie, dass die flache Seite des Spannbands nach außen zeigt, die Mutter ist innen.

Passen Sie die Höhe vorsichtig an, bevor Sie die Muttern und Schrauben festziehen.

Stellen Sie sicher, dass das oberste Kettenglied vor dem Binden auf der Schiene zentriert ist.

Der fertige Maschendrahtzaun.

Schritt 1 – Beginnen Sie an einem Ende einer Zaunlinie und rollen Sie das Kettenglied auf der Außenseite des umzäunten Bereichs oder der Seite, die Sie zuvor ausgewählt haben.

Schritt 2 – Rollen Sie eine weitere Rolle aus, falls mehr benötigt wird, um den nächsten Endpfosten zu erreichen. Das Kettenglied wird in einer durchgehenden Länge aus gewebtem Kettenglied von Endpfosten zu Endpfosten gespannt.

Schritt 3 – „Weave“-Kettenglied rollt zusammen. Dies kann ein wenig knifflig sein, wenn es noch nie zuvor gemacht wurde, und erfordert einige Erklärungen.

Jede Webart ist durchgehend von oben nach unten entlang der Vertikalen oder Höhe der Rolle. Wenn Sie dem Strang folgen, beginnend oben, werden Sie sehen, dass er im Zickzack nach unten hin und her geht. Es beginnt und endet entweder mit einem „knuckled“ oder einem „twisted“ Ende.

Um ein Gewebe zu entfernen, biegen Sie das Ende des Gewebeknöchels gerade. Entbiegen Sie das angrenzende Gewebe, das daran geknüpft ist. Wenn es ein verdrehtes Ende hat, drehen Sie einfach die beiden Gewebe auf, bis sie getrennt werden können.

Folgen Sie dem Gewebe bis zum anderen Ende, während es im Zickzack hin und her geht, und lösen oder lösen Sie das gegenüberliegende Ende. Seien Sie sicher, dass Sie sorgfältig folgen, damit Sie das richtige Gewebe rückgängig machen.

Drehen Sie das Gewebe oben oder unten am Zaun gegen den Uhrzeigersinn, als ob Sie es von der Rolle abschrauben wollten. Die meisten neu hergestellten Kettenglieder drehen sich gegen den Uhrzeigersinn, während sich einige vor Jahren hergestellte Kettenglieder im Uhrzeigersinn drehen. Drehen Sie weiter und Sie werden sehen, wie sich das andere Ende von den benachbarten Bindungen löst. Wenn Sie Schwierigkeiten haben, haben Sie möglicherweise die falschen Gewebe am anderen Ende getrennt. Überprüfen Sie auch, ob Sie das andere Ende gerade gebogen haben oder es sich verhakt, wenn Sie versuchen, es zu drehen. Ein weiteres Problem, das auftreten kann, ist, dass das Kettenglied zu straff gespannt ist; lassen Sie sich etwas locker.

Das Verfahren zum Zusammenweben von zwei Rollen ist genau das Gegenteil, außer dass es schwierig sein kann, anzufangen. Es ist am einfachsten, zwei Rollen zusammenzuweben, wenn sie flach auf dem Boden liegen, Rollen können jedoch auch in aufrechter Position zusammengewebt werden.

Beginnen Sie mit dem Weben: Kettenglieder bilden Quadrate oder “Diamanten”, wie sie häufig genannt werden. Sie müssen zwei Abschnitte oder Rollen so zusammenfügen, bevor Sie mit dem Weben beginnen, dass eine Rolle eine volle Raute und die andere Rolle eine halbe Raute hat. Dieses Spiel befindet sich oben und unten auf den Rollen. Wenn Sie ein Gewebe hinzufügen, erhalten Sie am Ende einen vollen Diamanten und zwei Enden, die Sie zusammenknöcheln oder verdrehen können.

Viele Rollen von Kettengliedern haben einen losen Draht in der Rolle. Verwenden Sie dies, um zwei Rollen zusammenzufügen oder einen Draht von einer der Rollen zu entfernen, um damit zu spleißen. Drehen Sie das einzelne Gewebe in die erste volle Raute. Drehen Sie es durch die nächste volle Raute der anderen Rolle. Drehen Sie weiter und stellen Sie sicher, dass das Webende bei jeder Umdrehung durch jede volle Raute auf jeder Rolle geht.

Wenn Sie Probleme haben, kann dies einen oder mehrere der folgenden Gründe haben: Ihr Kettenglied ist zu fest; etwas locker lassen. Sie haben irgendwo einen Diamanten übersehen; entwirren und erneut versuchen. Zuletzt. Möglicherweise haben Sie nicht übereinstimmende Rollen, die von verschiedenen Herstellern stammen, oder die Rollen haben unterschiedliche Maschenweiten. Zählen Sie die Anzahl der vollen Diamanten in jeder Rolle, sie sollten in Anzahl und Größe übereinstimmen.

Nachdem Sie die beiden Rollen erfolgreich zusammengewebt haben, drehen oder knoten Sie die Enden wieder zusammen. Wenn Sie kein Gegengewebe zum Befestigen haben, haben Sie entweder mit zwei halben Rauten auf jeder Rolle oder zwei vollen Rauten auf jeder Rolle begonnen. Nehmen Sie es auseinander und versuchen Sie es erneut. Sometimes you have to flip the one roll over (most have a half diamond at one end and a full diamond at the other) or remove a weave from one roll to create a starting half or full diamond.

Step 4 – After rolling out the chain link and weaving the rolls together, ‘hookup’ one end. Space the tension bands evenly as illustrated above (Fig. F51). Make sure the nuts are on the inside of the fence so they can not be removed from outside the enclosure.

If you have a sharp incline approaching a terminal post, the fabric must be cut on the end. This is called a bias cut. Read More: How to Bias Cut Chain Link.

Step 5 – Pull the chain link tight by hand to the other end. You may stand the chain link and lean it against the posts or leave it on the ground and lean it up as you stretch the fabric later. Generally the later is easier and better on long stretches.

Step 6 – Hook up stretch tools as illustrated on inside of fence (Fig. F51). Slide a tension bar 10-12′ away vertical in chain link fabric; hook stretch bar to it on inside.

Step 7 – Make sure the come-a-long hook faces away from the fabric or it may get caught in the diamonds.

Step 8 – Tighten the come-a-long slowly. Check that the fabric is not getting caught on posts, tree roots, or other obstacles.

Step 9 – ‘Dress’ the fabric as you tighten it. ‘Dressing’ involves straightening the fabric diamonds so they run true. This is vital for heavier gauge fabrics. Some spots will be higher than others as you sight down the top. Lift the fabric in the low spots. This must be done before the fabric gets too tight. Once it is tight, little can be done to straighten the fabric. Some fabric dresses easily, some does not. If the fabric does not dress up properly, you can always loosen the come-a-long and try again. Check top and bottom diamonds for any wires that may bind out of proper shape. Lift and shake fabric to assure an even tension throughout roll(s).

Step 10 – The fabric is stretched sufficiently when you can’t squeeze the diamonds together with one hand. Do not over stretch or post damage will occur. The top of the fence should ‘snap’ back to the posts when pulled out a little.

Step 11 – Hand stretch the small section of chain link left between the come-a-long and terminal post by hand. Remove a weave to ‘cut’ the fabric to proper length. Slide the tension bar into the mesh and make your last hookup. Once all bolts are in place, remove the stretching tools.

Tying Off The Fence:

Step 1 – Install tie wires onto top rail first to establish the height of the fence. The top diamond of chain link should be centered on the top rail. – Install tie wires onto top rail first to establish the height of the fence. The top diamond of chain link should be centered on the top rail. Step 2 – Space tie wires evenly and no more than 2′ apart. Step 3 – Tie line posts last. Use the same number of tie wires per line post as tension bands per terminal. This quantity is a minimum of 1 per foot.

Installing Chain Link Gates:

There are many different types of hinges and latches on the market today for use with chain link gates. Most are self-explanatory and do not include a set of installation instructions. Installation instructions usually accompany the more complicated hinges and latches.

Single Swing Gates:

Basic Swing Gate Hardware

Step 1 – Install female hinges on gates using nuts and bolts. Again, nuts should be installed on the inside of the enclosure. Space them the maximum distance apart as possible.

Step 2 – Hold gate in opening and mark the location of male hinges. Point the male hinge on the bottom up and the one on top down.

Step 3 – Install bottom and top male hinge with bolts. Tighten bottom hinge snug, but leave top hinge loose.

Step 4 – Place gate on bottom hinge and lower top male hinge into female hinge.

Step 5 – If the space under the gate is acceptable. Tighten top male hinge snug.

Step 6 – Test swing the gate to see if it will miss the ground. Adjust as needed.

Step 7 – Tighten all hinge bolts. Do not over tighten.

Step 8 – Install the latch at a convenient height (nuts inside).

Double Swing Gates:

In the case of double swing gates, you will want to install the gate closest to the ground first, unless the ground is perfectly level. Hang second gate level to the first. Although you may ‘step’ the gates for a tight fit to the ground, it looks best to install them level to one another.

Follow Steps 1-7 from above to hang the gates. After that is done, follow the steps below to latch the gates together.

Drop Rod & Center Stops

Step 8 – Install the double gate drop rod/latch assembly.

Step 9 – Install center stop for double swing gate. Close the double gate, making certain the two leaves are lined up (straight w/ fence line). Mark the ground where the center stop needs to be installed. You may simply use a cut-off piece of pipe as a center stop by driving it into the ground. Proceed slowly, checking the gate to make certain you are driving the pipe straight. You may also use a prefabricated center stop and cement it for a better appearance. If the center stop is in a concrete drive, simply drill a hole in the concrete larger than the drop rod diameter. Be sure to drill clear through the concrete drive to allow water to drain. Always make a much larger hole (or pipe size) than the diameter of the drop rod to allow for gate sag, posts shifting, ice and other factors.

Optional Step – Install Gate Holdbacks if desired. Open gate(s) to the desired ‘open’ position. Cement or drive a 2″ O.D. post a couple inches beyond this point. Install holdback at correct height using U-bolts provided.

Final Step – Install all post caps.

Slide Gates:

Chain Link Cantilever Gate

Chain Link Rolling Gate

Read More: Chain Link Cantilever Gate System Overview | Chain Link Cantilever Installation Manual | Chain Link Rolling Gate System Overview

Tested and approved by Tom Grupa and 5 experienced fence companies on HomeGuide.

chain link fence cost

Installing a chain link fence costs an average of $1,350 to $3,900. A 4- to 6-foot chain link fence costs $9 to $28 per foot installed. Chain link fencing materials cost $4 to $15 per foot plus $5 to $15 per foot for labor. Prices depend on height (3′ to 12′) and material (galvanized, cyclone, black coated).

Chain Link Fence Cost – Chart

Chain-link fence cost Linear feet 4 foot tall 6 foot tall 8 foot tall 50 $450 – $1,300 $500 – $1,400 $600 – $1,500 100 $900 – $2,600 $1,000 – $2,800 $1,200 – $3,000 150 $1,350 – $3,900 $1,500 – $4,200 $1,800 – $4,500 200 $1,800 – $5,200 $2,000 – $5,600 $2,400 – $6,000 300 $2,700 – $7,800 $3,000 – $8,400 $3,600 – $9,000 400 $3,600 – $10,400 $4,000 – $11,200 $4,800 0 – 0.12

Chain link fences last 15 to 20 years and require little maintenance.

Available fence heights are 3′ to 12′ with 4′ to 8′ being the most common.

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Chain link fencing cost calculator

Enter the linear feet of your fence below to estimate the cost.

Chain Link Fence Cost Calculator Linear fence yards Width of area in feet Depth in inches

(4 in standard driveway; 5 in for heavy trucks) Your Estimated Cost Factor Average Cost Materials $-$ Labor $-$ Total $-$

Average cost of a chain link fence

Based on an average 4 foot tall fence ranging from 50 to 200 feet in length.

Average Cost of a Chain Link Fence – Chart

Average Cost of a Chain Link Fence National Average Cost $2,600 Minimum Cost $450 Maximum Cost $6,000 Average Range $1,350 to $3,900

*Based on 254 project costs reported by HomeGuide members.

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Cost of installing a chain link fence

Materials and labor each account for 50% of the total installation cost.

Cost of Installing a Chain Link Fence – Chart

Cost of Installing Chain Link Fence Factor Average Cost Per Running Foot Mesh $1-8 Posts and Hardware $3-7 Labor $5-15 Total $9-30

Labor costs for installing a chain link fence

The labor cost to install a chain link fence is $5 to $15 per linear foot. Total installation cost for labor and materials is $9 to $30 per linear foot depending on fence material, height and terrain. Fence installers charge $30 to $70 an hour plus materials.

Most contractors install an average of 80 to 150 feet per day.

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Cost of removing and replacing chain link fencing

Chain link fence removal and disposal costs an average of $3 to $7 per linear foot. Replacing the chain link fabric alone will cost $6 to $15 per linear foot if the fence posts are still strong. Chain link fence removal and a complete replacement costs $12 to $37 per linear foot.

Cost of chain link fencing replacement Factor Average cost per running foot Dismantling and disposal $3-$7 Replacement of mesh alone $6-$15 Full replacement $12-$37

Contractors will not lower their costs for the old fence parts, and most recyclers no longer buy old chain link fences.

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A 4- to 6-foot chain link fence costs $9-$28 per foot, while an 8- to 10-foot fence costs $12-$32 per foot installed. Residential jobs are priced by project or linear foot, while larger jobs are estimated by acre or mile.

Chain Link Fence Cost Per Foot by Height – Chart

Chain Link Fence Cost Per Foot Height (Foot) Material Cost Per Foot Installed Cost Per Foot 4 $4 – $11 $9 – $26 5 $5 – $12 $10 – $27 6 $5 – $13 $10 – $28 7 $7 – $14 $12 – $29 8 $7 – $15 $12 – $30 $10 $8 – $17 $13 – $32 $12 $9 – $19 $14 – $34

4′ Tall Cyclone Chain Link Fence – Residential

Chain link fence cost per running foot

Installing a 100 foot chain link fence costs $900 to $3,000, a 200 foot costs $1,800 to $6,000, and a 300 foot costs $2,700 to $9,000.

Chain Link Fence Cost Linear Feet Average Installation Cost 100 $900 – $3,000 150 $1,350 – $4,500 200 $1,800 – $6,000 300 $2,700 – $9,000

chain link fence cost per acre

The average cost of an acre of chain link fence is $7,500 to $25,000. Chain link fencing for a standard 1/4 acre residential lot costs $3,700 to $12,500, while a 1/2 acre garden costs $5,300 to $17,700.

Cost of Chain Link Fence per Acre Area Linear Feet Total Installed Cost 1/4 417 $3,700 – $12,500 1/2 590 $5,300 – $17,700 1 835 $7,500 – $25,000

*Prices are for plots with four equal sides. Irregularly shaped acreage has more linear feet and is more expensive per acre.

Chain link fences price per meter

Chain link fencing costs $30 to $100 per meter installed. Chain link fencing material price is $13-$50 per meter and installation adds $16-$50 per meter. A meter is about 3.3 feet long.

roll of chain link fence costs

A 50-foot roll of chain link fence costs $45 to $90 for standard 11.5 gauge and $250 to $400 per roll for premium 9 gauge. Most chain link fence rolls cost $1 to $8 per linear foot, depending on wire size, height, and coating.

Chain link fence rolls are 3 to 12 feet tall and weigh 50 to 420 pounds

10, 100, and 150 linear foot rolls are also available but are less common.

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Chain link fencing prices by type

Chain link fencing prices depend on the type of mesh material.

Galvanized steel mesh is the most common and affordable.

Vinyl coated mesh increases durability and protects against rust.

Pure aluminum is the most expensive, gives a unique look and is the lightest.

Chain Link Fence Prices by Type – Galvanized Cyclone, Vinyl Coated and Aluminized Coating

Chain Link Fencing Prices by Type Material Material Cost per Linear Foot Installed Cost per Linear Foot Galvanized $1-8 $9-30 Vinyl Coated $2-8 $10-32 Aluminized Coating $4-13 $12-35 Aluminum $9-40 17- $62

Electroplating involves coating steel wire with zinc to protect it from rusting. Aluminized chain link is an electroplated wire that is also coated with aluminum for added protection.

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Galvanized steel chain link fence price

Galvanized steel chain link fencing prices range from $9 to $30 per linear foot installed. Electroplated mesh alone costs $1 to $8 per running foot. Galvanized chain link fences are 3 to 12 feet tall with 6 to 12.5 gauge wire.

Galvanized wire mesh – very close

Cyclone or hurricane fence costs

A hurricane or cyclone fence costs $9 to $30 per linear foot installed. A cyclone fence is the same as a chain link fence. Vinyl coating on cyclone fences provides rust protection popular in coastal and hurricane prone areas.

Cost of a black and green vinyl covered chain link fence

A black chain link fence costs $10 to $32 per foot or $1,600 to $4,200 to install. The vinyl or powder coating protects against rust and helps the wire blend in with the environment. Coated chain link fencing comes in black, green, brown and white.

Vinyl coated black chain link fence installed in backyard

California chain link fencing cost (wood with metal)

A California chain link fence costs $8 to $16 per linear foot installed. These ranch style fences have wooden posts and beams at the top and bottom. Split rail wooden fences with galvanized or vinyl coated chain link mesh are easier to install but require more maintenance.

Alternative metal fences for property owners are:

Installing a wrought iron fence averages $24 to $44 per foot.

average to install. An aluminum fence costs $24 to $50 per foot, depending on the height.

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Chain link fencing cost estimator

Chain link fencing material prices range from $4 to $15 per linear foot, or 50% of the total cost. Chain link fencing estimates depend on the height, quality, wire gauge, and material type.

Material Prices for Chain Link Fencing Item Average Cost Wire Mesh $1-$8 per linear foot End Post $10-$50 each Line Post $10-$35 each Sidewalk Gate $30-$150 each Driveway Gate $120-$350 each Privacy Slats $2-$12 per linear foot Fabric Screen $1-$6 per linear foot Additional Hardware* $1-$2 per linear foot

*Includes rails, caps, bolts, cable ties, tie rods and straps.

Link mesh prices per thickness

Chain link prices range from $1 to $10 per linear foot depending on gauge or thickness. Lower gauges are thicker, stronger, and more expensive wire. Domestic wire mesh is typically 9 to 12 gauge in a 2 inch diamond. Smaller 1-inch diamonds are stronger but cost double or triple.

Chain Link Fence Wire Cost by Thickness Metric Average Cost per Running Foot $6 5 – $10 $8 3 – $10 9 $2 – $10 11 $1.50 – $7 11.5 $1 – $6

*Material prices only. The exact cost depends on the height of the fence.

Chain link fence post prices

Chain link fence post prices range from $20 to $75 per installed fence or $2 to $5 per linear foot of fence. Each post costs $10-$50 plus $10-$25 labor to install in concrete. Line posts go between end posts with a 4 to 10 foot gap between them.

Chain Link Fence Post Prices Type Material Prices Per Post Installed Prices Per Post Terminal $15 – $50 $25 – $75 Line $10 – $35 $20 – $60

Chain link gate installation cost

Chain link gates range from $60 to $470 depending on the type and size. Prices for chain link gates for materials alone range from $30 to $150 for walk-in models or $120 to $350 for double swing gates 6 to 20 feet wide. Roll-up driveway gates range from $350 to $4,000 and can be automatic.

Cost of installing a chain link gate – chart

Wire Mesh Gate Installation Cost Type Average Installation Cost Specifications Single swing $60 – $270 3′ to 6′ width

For walkways double swing $150 – $470 6′ to 20′ width

For Rolling Driveways $350 – $4,000 + 6′ to 30′ width

For driveways

Rolls to one side

*Includes labor costs from $30 to $120.

Cost of chain link fence privacy slats

Chain link fence privacy pickets range from $5 to $18 per linear foot installed, depending on size, material, and design. The privacy slats alone cost $2 to $12 per foot. Privacy blinds come in a variety of colors and styles from 4ft to 8ft in height, and installation is DIY-friendly.

Cost of chain link privacy slats Height in feet Average cost per box (10 LF) 4 $20 – $80 5 $30 – $90 6 $35 – $100 8 $50 – $120

*Each box contains approximately 80 slats and covers 10 linear feet.

8 foot chain link fence with green privacy pickets

Advantages of the picket fence:

Reduces wind, dust and noise

Withstands harsh weather and will last for decades

low maintenance; easy to change if damaged

Provides approximately 75% visual blockage

Manufactured from PVC, high density polyethylene or aluminium

Some designs simulate redwood slabs or green hedges

Chain link fence privacy screen prices

Privacy screen fabric for chain link fencing costs $1 to $6 per linear foot, depending on height, light blocking capacity, and design. Fence privacy screens are typically sold in rolls ranging from 25 to 150 feet in length and 4 to 8 feet in height. Most screens come in dark, neutral colors.

Advantages and disadvantages:

Easy to hang up

Offers 80% to 95% privacy

Water and wind permeable

UV resistant models available

Shorter service life than plastic blinds

Less aesthetic

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Chain link fencing price factors

The table below shows other price factors for installing a chain link fence:

Price Factors for Chain Link Fencing Factor Average Cost Permit $40-150 Landscaping $50-100 per hour Tree Removal $180-700 per hour Stump Removal $50-300 per piece Land Surveying $200-800 Yard Grading $500-3,000 Height Extensions (material only ) $10 – $35 per post Fence painting $0.60 – $1.30 per square foot Automatic gate closer (material only) $15 – $30

Find top quality chain link fence builders. View Benefits

Building permits and regulations

Planning permission for a chain link fence costs $40 to $150, depending on local building codes. Fences taller than 3.5 to 6 feet usually require permits. Simple repairs do not require a permit, while replacements often require a permit.

Backyard fences are typically 6 to 8 feet tall, and front yard fences are 3.5 to 4 feet tall. Check building codes or the homeowners association for local regulations on fence height, location, post size and depth, privacy screens, and pool enclosures.

Landscaping, clearing and surveying

Additional charges apply for tree care, land surveying and landscaping in preparation for installation.

Installing a chain link fence on concrete

Post mounting brackets or anchors for installing a chain link fence on concrete cost $15 to $35 each. Contractors attach anchors to concrete using impact drills and bolts. Alternatively, cutting a hole in the concrete to insert the post costs $125 to $250 per project, depending on drilling or sawing depth.

Chain Link Fence Height Extender

Chain link fence height extender kits cost $285 to $430 per set and are 1 to 4 feet tall and 100 feet long. Extending a chain link fence with exact-fit material costs $10-$35 per extension post plus $1-$10 per foot for chain link. Contractors then charge $30 to $80 an hour for installation.

Chain link fencing alternatives and prices

Fence prices range from $5 to $25 per foot, depending on the type.

A wooden fence costs $12 to $27 per linear foot installed.

Furnished. A vinyl fence costs $15 to $30 per linear foot installed.

Chain link fencing alternatives and prices Type Cost per linear foot Features Wood $12 – $27 Natural, painted or stained

Easy to fix

Offers the most privacy

Requires annual maintenance

weather fast

Shortest lifetime

May rot or warp if not resealed regularly

Susceptible to Termite Damage Vinyl $15 – $30 Maintenance Free

Easy to clean with a hose

Fast installation

Waterproof

Outlasts wood

Difficult to repair

Limited color options

Cracks at extreme temperatures

Weak in high wind areas Aluminum (picket fence) $25 – $55 Stainless

Many design options

budget friendly

Low maintenance

Not as strong as steel Wrought Iron & Steel $30-65 Longest lasting

most expensive

Strongest for high security fencing

weather resistant

pest proof

heaviest material

Most difficult to install

*Total price for material and installation.

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frequently asked Questions

How long does a chain link fence last?

Chain link fences will last 15 to 20 years with proper maintenance and repair. A chain link fence can cost anywhere from $150 to $550 to repair. Typical repairs include replacing small sections, replacing gates or posts, repairing the top rail, resetting posts, and fastening loose hardware.

How much does a standard chain link fence cost?

Commercial chain link fencing costs $12 to $35 per linear foot installed for 4 to 12 foot high fences. The materials alone average $7 to $19 per running foot. Commercial chain link fences are stronger, last longer, and have thicker 6 to 9 gauge wire.

What is the rental price for a temporary chain link fence?

Temporary chain link fence rentals cost $15 to $30 per panel per month. Chain link fence rentals for up to 6 months are $2 to $3 per linear foot with a minimum fee of $350 to $420. Individual panels are typically 6 feet high and 12 feet long.

Temporary Chain Link Fence Rental Rates Period Cost Per Item Weekly $5 to $18 Monthly $15 to $30

*Usually includes the panel, stand, delivery, set up and take down.

How long does it take to install a chain link fence?

Installing a chain link fence takes 2 to 5 days depending on length and complexity. Contractors install 80 to 150 feet daily depending on crew size and job conditions. Setting the posts in concrete takes 1 day. Cement hardens in 1 to 4 days depending on the type.

How much does it cost to move a chain link fence?

Moving a chain link fence costs an average of $10 to $22 per running foot. Contractors dismantle the fence and reuse as many parts as possible. Fences older than 15 years are best replaced, not relocated. Have the fence inspected by a professional to find the ideal solution.

Does a chain link fence reduce property value?

Chain link fencing does not increase the resale value of the property. While chain link fencing is affordable, chain link has the least designer appeal of all fencing types. Only solid wood, cast iron or vinyl privacy fencing has a 50% ROI in resale value.

Do you have anymore questions? Ask a fencing pro. View Benefits

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Cost of installing a DIY chain link fence

A DIY chain link fence costs $4 to $15 per linear foot for materials plus $600 for tools and $100 to $160 per day for equipment rental. DIY chain link fence installation requires two workers over 2 to 5 days.

Those inexperienced with power tools, heavy equipment, land clearing, or grading should consider hiring a contractor.

Call 811 or your local utility company to tag public utility lines and a private utility crew for private lines. Marker lines prevent supply disruptions, damage and serious injuries.

equipment and tools

DIY chain link fence construction equipment Tools Materials Cement mixing/pouring tools (bucket, mortar pick, trowel, wheelbarrow)

Pole for digging the hole

drilling machine

Auger or auger

Wire/cable cutters

Metal cutting handsaw

Measuring Tools: Masonry cord or cord, tape measure, pegs for landscaping, and leveler for post or surface leveling

Hog Ring Pliers

shovel

Ratchet Socket Wrench

Fence tension rod & 2 ton winch (or cable puller)

sledgehammer

Eye and ear protection, gloves Concrete Mix – Fast setting mixes harden in less than an hour saving 1 to 2 days time

Chain Link Fence Hardware Kit (Including Post, Gate, Fence Roll)

Support strips & wood screws

2″x4″ scrap wood

gravel (optional)

Tool rental costs

Reaming Tools: $6 to $10 per day. Best for softer soils only.

. Best for softer soils only. Electric drill (1 person): $75 to $110 per day. Ideal for hard or loamy soils.

. Ideal for hard or loamy soils. Electric cement mixers (160-180 lbs. capacity): $30-$50 per day.

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Hiring a Chain Link Fence Installer

Before hiring a chain link fence installer near you, remember:

Compare at least three estimates.

Look for contractors with several years of experience.

Check out their reviews on HomeGuide, Google, and the Better Business Bureau (BBB).

Check their building permit (C-13 in California). Top professionals are also certified by the American Fence Association or OSHA.

Check their insurance, workers’ compensation, and bail bonds.

Avoid companies with the cheapest offerings as quality can suffer.

Obtain a detailed cost estimate, contract and guarantee in writing before starting work.

Never pay in full before the project begins. Instead, follow a payment plan.

Questions to ask

Do you know the local building codes and fencing requirements?

Will you schedule an underground survey appointment to mark utility lines before work begins?

Are all material and labor costs included in this estimate? What additional costs should I expect?

How long will this project last?

What selection of fencing materials do you offer and what are the price differences?

Will you be hauling away all the old fencing materials and cleaning up after installation?

Can you help me locate my property survey to mark the official boundaries?

Will my fence run right along the property line or should the fence remain within it?

Do I need a permit to install the fence? If yes, will you collect the permit for me?

What are your payment terms and schedule?

How many chain link fences have you installed?

Can I see references of your previous installations?

Do you offer a guarantee on your work?

Get free HomeGuide quotes from trusted chain link fence installers:

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Chain link is a type of fence that comes in a roll. It is made of aluminum and is attached to evenly spaced posts. It is available in 4, 5 or 6 foot heights. Most types of chain link fencing are installed directly to aluminum posts. These posts are dug into the ground. The chain link goes over it and attaches to the posts. Chain link can also be mounted with T-post. These posts are typically used to install smaller chain link and garden fences, but can also be used to install chain links.

Chain Link Fence – General Information

Chain link fence – wear and tear

Lightweight chain link fencing is unable to withstand extreme wear and tear. The frame of the chain link fence can bend or the fabric can be damaged. Daily wear and tear, including people sitting on or climbing on the chain link fence, can cause damage. In addition, strong winds can also damage the chain link fence. While the structure of the chain link fence can be damaged, a poor coating can cause the chain link fence to rust. Lightweight chain link fencing is manufactured for light, temporary needs. An ignorant consumer may buy a lightweight chain link fence because of its lower cost or because they don’t understand that there is a difference between chain link fencing.

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Chain link fence – quality

The Chain Link Fence Manufacturers Institute has conducted tests on lightweight chain link fencing. Their tests showed that a 75-pound dog and 100-pound child could damage a chain-link fence or cause them to fall. The Chain Link Fence Manufacturers Institute also learned that the average consumer, once educated on the differences in chain link fencing, would choose a heavier gauge fence.

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Chain link fence – fabric

There are three criteria to consider when selecting chain link fencing mesh: wire size, mesh size and type of protective coating.

Fabric strength for chain links

The gauge (ga.) or wire diameter of the chain link indicates how much steel is actually in the weave. The smaller the mesh count, the more steel and higher quality wire is used for the chain link. It also indicates the gauge of the wire. Common chain link gauges are 13, 12-1/2, 11-1/2, 11, 9, and 6. It is recommended that a typical chain link fence use 11-1/2 to 9. Light, temporary chain link fencing may use 13 or 12-1/2 gauge, while heavy, industrial chain link fencing requires 6 gauge.

Mesh fabric made from chain links

The mesh size of the chain link is a measure of how far apart the parallel wires in the mesh are. Like the gauge of the link, the mesh size of the link is another indication of how much steel is in the link. The smaller the rhombus, the more steel there is in the fabric. Typical chain link mesh sizes range from 2-3/8”, 2-1/4” and 2”. Smaller chain links are used for tennis courts (1-3/4 inch), swimming pool (1-1/4 inch) and high security mini mesh (5/8 inch, 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch). ).

Chain link fabric coating

There are several different surface treatments that help protect and enhance steel chain links.

Zinc is the most common protective coating for chain link fencing. Zinc protects chain link at all costs. For example, if the chain link is severed, the zinc “heals” the exposed steel surface and protects against rust by forming a white layer of oxidation. Typical galvanized chain link fabric has a coating of 1.2 ounces per square foot. A fence project that requires a longer than average lifespan may require more zinc coating. The longevity of the chain link is directly related to the amount of zinc applied.

The two main methods by which chain link fabrics are electroplated or zinc coated are Galvanized After Weaving (GAW) or Galvanized Before Weaving (GBW). GAW requires the steel to first be formed into link fabric before being galvanised, while GBW galvanizes the strand of wire before it is formed into link fabric. GAW is the main galvanizing process for larger manufacturers because it is more efficient.

Chain link wire can also be coated with aluminum in addition to zinc. Unlike zinc which is a sacrificial coating, the aluminum coating acts as a barrier to the chain link. As a result, aluminum chain links can quickly rust from cut ends, scratches, and other imperfections.

If you want your chain link fence to have color, look for polyvinyl chloride, which is applied in addition to the zinc coating. The polyvinyl coating offers a second protection against corrosion and blends in harmoniously with the surroundings of the chain link fence. Colored chain link coatings can be done in three different ways:

Extruded: This chain link covering is suitable for most chain link fencing in residential or light commercial applications as the vinyl jacket is wrapped around the steel core.

Extruded Binding: This chain link coating is an extension of the extruded coating as an adhesive bonds the vinyl jacket to the core wire.

Thermally Fused: Suitable for all applications, this chain link coating fuses the vinyl coating to the galvanized steel core.

It is important that you understand the gauge and steel core wire of the end product. It is recommended that the diamond mesh be 1-3/4″ to 2-3/8″ for normal chain link installations.

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Chain Link Fence – Fabric Specifications

ASTM specifications for chain link fencing fabric:

A392-96 Standard Specification for Galvanized Steel Chain Link Fence Fabric

A492-96 Standard Specification for Aluminized Chain Link Fencing

F1345-96 Standard Specification for Zinc-5% Aluminum Alloy Coated Steel Chain Link Fencing Fabric

F668-96 Standard Specification for Polyvinyl Chloride Coated Steel Chain Link Fencing

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Chain link fence – frame

Just like with chain link fabric, it is important to consider three factors when choosing the frame for your chain link fence: gauge or thickness of the steel, diameter of the pipe and type of protective coating.

Frame gauge for chain links

The strength of the chain link fence frame is directly related to the gauge (ga.) of the steel. Common gauges of chain link residential fencing are 20, 19, 18, 17, 16 and 15. Residential chain link fencing should be constructed of steel with a minimum yield strength of 45,000 pounds per square inch.

frame diameter of the chain links

The diameter of the chain link fence fabric is the width of the pipe and another factor that determines the strength of the fence. The wider the diameter of the pipe, the more steel is needed and the stronger the chain link fence framework. Common diameters of chain link fencing include 1-3/8”, 1-5/8”, 1-7/8”, and 2-3/8”.

Coating of the chain link structure

Like chain link fence fabric, there are different types of protective coatings for chain link fence frames.

The most commonly used coating for chain link scaffolding is in-line flow coating. The steel flows through a pot of molten zinc, coating its outer surfaces as the tube is formed. This step is followed by an organic polymer treatment that provides additional external protection against corrosion. A layer of zinc paint is then applied to protect the outside of the tube.

Unlike in-line flow coating galvanizing, the metal of the pre-galvanized tube is galvanized before being formed into a round tube. The tube is then re-metallized with a zinc coating for added protection.

Hot-dip galvanized pipes are manufactured by in-line forming and welding. The tube is then immersed in a tank of molten zinc. Finally, the excess zinc on the inside of the pipe is blown out with air.

chain link fence color frame

The protective coating of pipes can be enhanced with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and a polyester paint coat. These additional coatings provide protection from corrosion and add an aesthetic appeal that helps the chain link fence blend in with the environment. The default colors of the chain link color frame include black, brown, and green.

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Chain Link Fence Frame Specifications

ASTM specifications chain link fence frames:

F761-82 Standard Specification for Strength Requirements for Steel Posts and Rails for Chain Link Residential Fencing

F934-96 Standard Specification for Stud Colors for Polymer-Coated Chain Link Fencing

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Chain link fence – fittings and gate fittings

The chain link fence is only as strong as its weakest link. Like chain link fencing fabric and frames, all steel hardware including straps, tie rods, nuts and bolts and gate hardware must be hot dip galvanized to prevent corrosion. There are many inferior fittings on the market. Your best security is to look for a full system warranty from a reputable manufacturer. A small part that rusts can cause unsightly stains over large areas of your fence.

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Chain Link Fence – Hardware Specifications

ASTM Specification for Chain Link Fence Hardware:

F626-96 Standard Specification for Fence Hardware

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Chain link fence – gates

In addition to chain link fence hardware, properly manufactured gate hardware is also important as it affects the day-to-day operation of the moving part of the fence. The fabric and frame of your gate should be identical to that of your fence. A chain link fence gate can be:

The curved frame gate has all four corners mechanically bent

With square welded gates, all four corners are welded

Aluminum corner goals are assembled with four die-cast goal corners or cubits

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Chain Link Fence Gate Specifications

ASTM Specification for Chain Link Fence Gates:

F654-91 Standard Specification for Chain Link Fence Gates for Residential Buildings

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Contact us today for more information on a chain link fence.

Chain link fences serve as a secure garden boundary, but they have a common weak point. The underside of a chain link fence can be vulnerable to dogs, rabbits, cats, and other critters in the neighborhood. To combat this problem, you can secure the bottom of a chain link fence using some of the options below.

Install a bottom rail

The most obvious solution to securing a chain link fence is to install a bottom rail, just like on the top of the fence. However, this does not work for all circumstances. If the fence is on a steep slope, adding a bottom railing can be a trick. The bottom rail may also leave a small gap near the floor depending on how it’s attached. We can evaluate your options during your chain link fencing quote to determine if a bottom rail is right for you.

Use guy wire to secure the bottom of the fence

A tension wire can prevent animals from pulling up the chain link fence below. This can be installed during the construction of the chain link fence or installed later. The wires are attached to the posts but are not woven into the chain link fabric. Think of this as a thin bar behind the chain link that provides just enough support to keep animals at bay.

Add chain link fence posts at the bottom

Another way to secure the bottom of a chain link fence is to add posts. There are many types of chain link stakes, but they all work the same. The stakes wrap around part of the chain link fabric and are driven directly into the ground. This bridges the gap between the fence and the ground and stabilizes the bottom of the fence. Some homeowners add chicken wire to the base for an extra barricade.

Put a guard on the bottom of your chain link fence

Chain link fencing is designed to cover the pointed edges of the chain link fabric. This makes it more difficult for animals to grab and pry part of the fence. It also creates a clean edge at the bottom that appeals to many homeowners.

Installing a chain link guard is fairly easy, and there are a variety of colors to choose from. This option doesn’t offer as much stability as guard rails or guy wires, but works well in certain situations.

Get a secure chain link fence from All Around Fence

If you are concerned about chain link fencing safety, let us design a custom fence to meet your needs. We consider your budget, goals, property restrictions, and other factors to create the perfect fence design. Contact All Around Fence at (443) 838-9374 to arrange a free estimate for the fence. We serve the greater Baltimore area, including Howard County, Baltimore County and Anne Arundel County.

We recently had a new dog fence built around our entire acre of land and all the wooden posts have been set straight into the ground – even the ones in the corners that take the tension. We could have installed them in concrete, gravel or crushed stone – but that seemed the cheapest and quickest to us. So what are the relative merits of each method?

Concrete provides a strong foundation for wooden fence posts, but can cause them to rot faster. Setting in soil, with or without gravel or crushed stone, depending on the soil type, can help the posts last longer before they rot. You can also use metal fence post anchors to extend their lifespan.

Let’s take a closer look at all of these methods of setting wooden fence posts…

Check out the latest picket fence prices at Amazon.com

Do fence posts have to be concreted in?

No, fence posts don’t need to be concreted in, and there are many other ways to fix your posts if that feels a little too permanent.

If you are going to use wooden 4×4 fence posts, concrete may be your worst option. Why is that because concrete is surely the safest way to attach a post?

Well, yes it is at first, but the problem is that wooden posts will eventually rot. You now see the problem: the post is rotten, but it is stuck in a hole filled with concrete. When you finally manage to get the rotting wood out, you will be left with many empty concrete holes in your yard.

Concrete can even speed up the rotting process. Because wood and concrete expand and contract differently, a small “collar” eventually forms around the base of the post. This allows water to get in, but it cannot escape through the concrete, resulting in damp wood, resulting in a rotten fence post.

The solutions? Well, some gardeners swear by caulking the post to keep that little gap from even forming. Treat the wood well first, then when everything is in place, caulk around the base of the post. You can also try setting the concrete so that it forms a low mound with the post at the top to allow the water to gently drain down.

And of course you don’t have to use wood for your fence posts. If you want the security of a concrete fence without the risk of rot, use a non-rusting metal like stainless steel or aluminum, or opt for easy-care vinyl posts.

There are many other ways to set wooden fence posts and we will look at them one by one.

Can fence posts be set in the ground? (Put fence posts without concrete)

Yes, you can. It seems like too easy a solution; However, if you follow the right approach, you can put your fence posts right in the dirt.

As previously mentioned, this is often more beneficial than setting your fence posts in concrete in the first place.

So let’s look at the steps you need to take:

How to Install Fence Posts (How Deep Should a Fence Post Be?)

They start digging the hole. The general rule is to dig to a depth of one-third the height of the post. So if you want a six foot picket fence, buy a nine foot post and then dig three feet deep. The hole must be as close to the diameter of the post as possible.

Start by loosening the soil with a trowel, then dig it up with a shell digger. You may also need to have a saber saw on hand in case you hit hard roots. Smash rocks away with a pole, then pick them up with the shell digger. When working with heavy clay soil, you may need to constantly wash or wipe down the backhoe to prevent clogging.

Dig a hole, stick a flat rock, some gravel or a piece of concrete in the base to use as a foundation. Insert the post and use a spirit level to check that it is straight. You’ll need a second person to hold the post while you decant it and constantly check the level.

Fill it up with a mixture of soil and sharp gravel and press down with something long and thin. When you get to the top of the hole, scoop a good amount of the mixture around the base of the post, forming a mound allowing the water to run down.

Repeat this for each individual post. Setting fence posts is a great workout.

Check out the latest picket fence prices at Amazon.com

Is it a good idea to set fence posts in gravel?

Gravel can be a great alternative to using concrete and will eliminate any drainage issues, either underground or around the base.

However, the success of gravel as a piling depends on the soil. It won’t work on loose or sandy soils, but is ideal for heavy, loamy dirt. It’s a good option if you live in an area that experiences a lot of severe frosts, as it makes the fence less susceptible to frost blasts.

The process is very similar to setting a fence post in soil. You need to dig this one-third deep hole with your shell digger and then place a layer of gravel at its base. Set the post in the hole, making sure it’s straight (again, this is ideally a two-person job), then fill in with more gravel. Tamp the gravel down every few inches.

Unlike concrete, you can continue and install the chain or rails immediately, allowing for faster work. You can also create a nice effect by growing grass to the base of the posts. If you want to do this, stop two inches from the ground and switch to using soil. You can then grass them.

Can I set fence posts in gravel?

You can also use crushed stone when setting your fence posts. If you’re an avid DIY enthusiast, chances are you’ve used crushed stone on at least one garden project in the past, e.g. B. when laying slabs for your patio or driveway.

If so, you’ll appreciate why it’s such a useful material for installing fence posts. Like gravel, it allows drainage around your fence post, reducing the risk of rapid rot.

However, the crushed rock particles also melt together more easily than the larger pieces of gravel. These interlocking particles create a strong foundation, closer to concrete but with drainage. In fact, in terms of strength, it’s probably the second-closest material to concrete when it comes to backfilling your posts.

To use gravel, follow the same process as for larger pieces of gravel. dig, place, fill, stomp; then fill, stomp repeat until you reach the bottom. If you are setting a concrete post, crushed stone can provide a good drainage layer for the foundation.

Are fence post anchors needed?

What is a fence post anchor? It’s simply a bracket with a pointed end and can make your life a lot easier when installing your fence posts. A fence post anchor isn’t strictly necessary, but it can certainly help make your project a little easier.

How do fence post anchors work? The pointed end is driven into the ground and then the post comes into the holder: It really is that simple. It saves all the time and effort spent digging holes and forms a solid anchor for your posts.

First mark where you want to place your posts. Place the pointed end of the anchor on your mark, then use a spirit level to check that it is straight. Hit the anchor with a sledgehammer to drive it into the ground. Stop every few strokes and check the level again.

When the anchor is fully driven in, insert the fence post into the bracket and tighten the screws. This was a lot easier than drilling a three foot hole. Repeat this until all your posts are in place.

The good news is that now that they’re in, they can stay in place for a long time. A quality galvanized post anchor should last for years, if not decades. You can also get anchors with round mounts if you prefer a round post.

Can I use concrete fence posts?

Yes you can and they are easy to install.

For example, to put up a six-foot fence, you need to dig two-foot holes and need three types of concrete fence posts—each eight feet long.

These are:

End Posts – which can hold a fence panel at the end of a row

Corner Posts – which can hold two fence panels at a 90 degree angle at corners

Intermediate Posts – which can hold two fence panels in a straight line

Simply dig your holes and line up your concrete fence posts, filling each hole with concrete to secure them in the ground.

Allow to dry and set for 24 hours, then insert your fence panels.

There you have it, a durable fence that looks great and will last for years whatever the elements throw at it.

Conclusion

It is often assumed that concrete is the best material for setting wooden fence posts. However, this does not necessarily have to be the case – and also depends on the type of soil you have.

If you don’t want the hassle of digging rotting wood out of cement-filled holes for years to come, then setting your fence posts in the dirt may be the easiest and best option. After all, fence posts will eventually rot (concrete actually speeds this up), so it’s easier to dig them straight out of the ground when they do.

Other alternatives like gravel and crushed stone are also a good idea as they increase drainage around the base of the posts – and extend their lifespan.

But if you’re not sure what to do, it’s best to stick them in holes that are the right size for the diameter of the fence post and at the right depth – right in the ground. We’ve done that and they’re holding up well. 🙂

Check out the latest picket fence prices at Amazon.com

Quick set concrete is ideal for installing fence posts as it can be mixed directly in the hole. When you’ve finished your post holes, add about three to four inches of gravel into the soil and compact it with your post or a 2×4. Then line up your post and use a spirit level to make sure it’s perfectly vertical. Secure your post with two clamps and pour your dry concrete directly into the hole, around the entire post to about three inches below the lip. Slowly fill the hole with about a gallon of water, enough so that you’ve saturated all of the concrete.

Quick-set concrete is ideal for installing fence posts because it doesn’t need to be mixed in a bucket or wheelbarrow. When you’re done digging your post holes, add about three to four inches of gravel into the soil and compact it with a post or a 2×4. Then line up your post and use a spirit level to make sure it’s perfectly vertical. Secure your post with two clamps and pour your dry concrete into the hole, surrounding the post to about three inches below the lip. Slowly fill the hole with about a gallon of water, enough so that you’ve saturated all of the concrete.

Quick set concrete is ideal for installing fence posts as it can be mixed directly in the hole. When you’ve finished your post holes, add about three to four inches of gravel into the soil and compact it with your post or a 2×4. Then line up your post and use a spirit level to make sure it’s perfectly vertical. Secure your post with two clamps and pour your dry concrete directly into the hole, around the entire post to about three inches below the lip. Slowly fill the hole with about a gallon of water, enough so that you’ve saturated all of the concrete.

Chain link fence installation guide

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Read more: How to Install Chain Link Fence (PDF) | Chain Link Installation Tutorial (PDF) | Overview of the chain link fencing system

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Before you start:

Step 1 – Obtain the necessary zoning and building permits. There may be local zoning or deed restrictions on the height and type of fence and/or gate. Find out about property line requirements. Find survey needles if you want the fence to be near property lines, or have the property surveyed.

Step 2 – Measure the fence material and locate the placement of the gate.

Step 3 – Call 811 before you dig. Notify your local or state utility protection service to locate potential underground utilities. There is usually no cost to locating utilities, but there can be a hefty charge to repair buried utilities, not to mention possible personal injury.

Step 4 – Shop your chain link fence at HooverFence.com.

Tools needed for installation:

Unpacking and checking the fence shipment:

Prepare for the delivery of your HooverFence.com fence. Chain link fence orders can arrive on small and large trucks, covered trailers and picket fence trucks. Forklifts are not usually required, but be prepared to unload fence tubing, chain link reels, sacks and crates of chain link fittings by hand. First, we recommend that you carefully unpack and inspect your shipment to ensure you have all of your materials. Make sure you go through and read all of the instructions at this point. While installing the fence is relatively easy, this online guide should take all the guesswork out. If you have any questions or problems installing the fence, please give us a call. Read more: Shipping Policy.

Set Fence Lines:

You determine the future fence line by using the stakes and string to stake out the area to be fenced.

Step 1 – Drive the stakes a foot or two away from where you want to place the Corner and End Posts; This allows you to drill/dig holes without obstacles. It can also allow you to “drop” the cord when digging holes for fence posts. Be careful not to bump or dislodge the stakes. If you remove the tendon to dig holes, be sure to stretch the tendon back to how it was before you removed it.

Step 2 – Tightly stretch the masonry leader between these posts. This cord represents the position of the fence and serves as a guide when setting posts. Posts are cast in concrete or driven 1/8-1/4″ from the stringline.

Step 3 – Intermediate posts may be required for longer fence sections. Be sure to pull the string taut, as a string that sags or moves with the wind will cause the posts to be misadjusted. Remember that the fence can only be as straight as the leader line.

Step 4 – First locate the goal posts and mark their position with reversed post hole marker paint. Next, measure each fence section. Chain link fence posts are usually spaced a maximum of ten feet apart. Space the posts evenly for aesthetic reasons, but no more than ten feet between posts. If you plan to install privacy blinds or other materials that will increase wind loads, consider using 8-foot or 6-foot post spacing. Also consider the scaffolding, i. H. Posts and railings, upgrade to a larger diameter and thicker wall thickness. Heavier chain link frames such as HF20 and/or HF40 are an excellent choice for use with chain link fencing with aluminum diagonal or PVC privacy battens or privacy screens.

marker color

post location

Creating square corners using the 3-4-5 method:

Step 1 – Pull the string along the two adjacent sides as shown in the drawing. Step 2 – Measure and mark 3′ down on a line. Step 3 – Measure and mark 4′ down on the other line. Step 4 – Measure diagonally between the two marks and adjust the lines to measure 5′. Note: For greater accuracy, use measurements in multiples of 3-4-5, such as e.g. 6-8-10 etc.

Setting up posts:

Typical post layout

Correct the shape of the post hole

Step 1 – Post hole sizes may vary depending on geographic location, fence height, and fence materials used. Generally for residential chain link fences, dig holes 6 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep (or below the frost line in your area). Another rule of thumb is to dig the holes three times the diameter of the post, i.e. a 2″ diameter post would require a 6″ diameter hole, and one third the height of the fence that is above ground, stick in the ground. Typically, goalpost holes are dug larger in diameter and deeper to withstand the added stress of a moving goal. The guide string can be temporarily removed prior to excavation to prevent cutting. Be sure to replace it as it was originally stretched.

Holes for chain link fence posts can be dug by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars, small gas powered augers, or skid steer loaders with hydraulic augers. Size your auger bit according to the height and nature of the fencing material to be installed.

If you need to place a fence post near an existing structure, drilling close to the structure is still better than digging by hand with post hole diggers and spud bars from scratch. Here a hole was drilled as securely as possible to the existing fence. The hole is hand dug or “shaved” to allow it to sit closer to the existing fence.

Holes next to buildings often have to be dug by hand. Be careful as drain pipes and other utility lines may be near foundations.

Some obstacles like the above can be difficult to handle. In this case, a post can be bent to miss the pipe. First measure the depth of the bend.

Notice how the post stays firmly attached to the house, but is still dug into the depth with an adequate foot of concrete.

Step 2 – Re-tighten the guide line and check the holes visually and/or by placing a post in the hole and plumbing in all directions for accuracy. If the hole needs to be “shaved” or moved, do it now. If the holes are shallow because you hit an object you can’t remove, “bell” the hole below. To “bell” a hole, use a post hole digger and/or spud bar to make the bottom of the hole larger than the top. This further anchors the concrete foot that supports your fence. ‘Belling’ compensates for holes up to 18 inches deep. If necessary, move the hole slightly to avoid obstacles. This changes your post spacing. In the case of line piles, however, this is not harmful. If you need to move more than a few feet, consider installing an additional post in the center of the extended space. Other ways to deal with obstacles include bending posts underground and welding plates to posts to attach them to large rocks.

Check the hole position before filling with concrete mix. The hole should not be perfectly centered under the string; It should be slightly offset to center the post in the concrete base. If necessary, insert the post into the empty hole and check the plumb with a spirit level. The post should be spaced about 1/8-1/4″. If not, the fence post hole will need to be “shaved”.

After the holes for the fence posts have been dug and cleaned, check that each hole is in the correct location. If you can’t see it visually, place the post in the hole and plumb the post. The post must be perpendicular and placed 1/8″-1/4″ from the leader. Fence Tip: Be sure to dig fence post holes the correct depth and diameter for your area. Northern regions have deeper frost depths than the southern part of the country. 30-36″ deep concrete feet will suffice for most fence installations.

Step 3 – Mix concrete with water using a pre-mixed bag. Just walk on the water. The mixture should look like thick gray mud, not mom’s watered-down chili. If it doesn’t pile up on the scoop, it’s too thin; add more mixture to dry it. When mixing from scratch using aggregate such as gravel, limestone or shell, concrete sand and Portland cement, mix 3 to 4 parts (shovels) aggregate to 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

Smaller fencing projects are often erected with pre-mixed bagged concrete. Often sold in hardware stores, 40, 60, and 80 pound bags are usually readily available for your fencing project. Calculate your concrete requirements for fence posts using HooverFence.com’s Concrete Calculator.

Premixed bags of concrete can be mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow with a shovel, or with a gas-powered or electric-powered cement mixer. Mix concrete to a “thick milkshake”-like consistency. Don’t mix too wet or the soupy texture will cause the posts to sink or the concrete won’t set at all.

For small chain link fencing where the job can be set and stretched in the same day, using a small amount of Quik Rok or another brand of quick setting hydraulic cement with regular premixed cement can save time and an extra trip to the job site.

Quik Rok Rapid Setting Hydraulic Cement is available in 5 gallon pails and is a powder-like material that can be used alone for small holes (coring cement). You can also mix about a scoopful of this baking-flour-like material with a wheelbarrow full of regular cement. Fence Tip: Some fence specification work requires concrete feet to be poured to the top, capped and spackled. Use a pointed trowel for a better look.

Step 4 – Mark the postgrade mark. End, corner and gate posts should be marked at the height of the fence plus 1 inch; 49 inches for a 4-foot fence, 61 inches for a 5-foot fence, etc. Mark intermediate or line posts at the height of the fence minus 3 inches; 45″ for 4′ fence, 57″ for 5′ fence etc. If you add your post cap and top rail the height will be accurate. Height markings represent the bottom of the fence and are essential for setting posts at the correct depth. If you bury the post that hides the height marker by 1 inch you will need to dig a trench to bury the fence here. If your height mark is 3 inches off the ground, your fence will be 3 inches off the ground and you’d better plan this and trim it later or fill it under the fence if a tight fit is required.

For chain link fencing, line posts (intermediate posts) should be marked with a height marker that is 3″ less than the height of the fence to be installed. This is where a 6 foot high fence will be installed. Line posts are marked at 5′-9″. . Fence Tip: Vinyl coated wire mesh is more resilient than galvanized mesh and may “shrink” slightly when stretched. Subtract an additional 1/2 inch if setting posts for a vinyl-covered fabric fence.

With chain link fences, end posts, i. H. End Posts, Corner Posts and Gate Posts, marked 1″ more than the height of the fence to be installed. For a 6 foot chain link fence, mark the posts at 6 feet to 1 inch. . Fence Tip: After setting, place a spare piece of tubing or a post that has not yet been set on top of the gate post and align these posts. Gates are usually perfectly square.

Step 5 – Fill holes with wet cement. Don’t fill too many and risk the concrete setting before you can “glue” your posts. Don’t fill the holes with concrete to the brim, leave the concrete 3-4″. Filling the hole completely with cement is a common mistake. When this is done, water will collect under that “lip” of concrete. When it freezes, the ground literally presses down on the concrete base and “lifts” the post up, much like squeezing a tube of toothpaste.

Once the fence post holes have been dug and cleaned (making sure to clear the post holes of loose dirt and debris), shovel cement into the holes until they are almost full. Drop the cement from the soil surface (degrees) about 3″. Holes should also be larger in diameter at the bottom than at the top, “bell-shaped”. Holes shaped like a carrot can lift prematurely.

Fence post holes can be filled virtually as fast as the batches of cement can be mixed and poured. Often another person can follow the person filling in the holes and “stick” the fence posts. To “stick” fence posts is simply to push the posts into a hole that has already been filled with cement, plumb and close to the stringline.

Fill post holes with concrete mix. Don’t fill holes completely. This can cause posts to lift prematurely.

Step 6 – Glue the post. Most chain link posts can be installed by first pouring the cement into the hole and then “sticking” the post into the wet cement. Simply slide the post into the cement mix in the center of the hole. Place the binding posts as close to the string as possible without touching the string. Setline posts approximately 1/8″-1/4″ off-string. This will account for the differences in fence post diameters. Another way to set posts is for one person to hold the post perpendicular to the plumb line while another shovels concrete mix around the post. The first method outlined is actually simpler, a more efficient method of setting fence posts and ensuring that there is concrete around, under and within the post.

Chain link fence posts should be “taped down” to their respective height markings and anchored with leader cords. Fill in loose dirt and gently step on the dirt surrounding the posts to help hold them up too high. If posts are sinking on you, the concrete is too wet or holes have filled with water.

You can and should put your posts in their holes and check them up to the string line with a spirit level if you are unsure if the post holes were dug in the right place. It can be very frustrating when holes are not checked for accuracy and then filled with cement. You’ll find that you’re trying to stick posts in the dirt surrounding the dug hole, but they’re buried in cement. When this happens, pull the post, re-dig the hole, and try to catch up with your crew!

On sloping terrain it is sometimes necessary to intentionally set posts high with the height markings exposed. The chain link height is actually higher when measured diagonally. When in doubt, measure the square with the bias to estimate the finished height of the fabric. Chain link is remarkably versatile and can be installed on any terrain. Fence tip: If in doubt, leave the post high and cut it off later. This is a lot easier than trying to increase the height of a chain link fence post!

After the chain link fence posts have been “clamped” in place, check that the cement level is correct. If the concrete level is too low, you should pour more cement. Fence Tip: Avoid pushing away your leader line to fill holes with cement when someone else is using it to ‘glue’ posts!

Set the posts to the depth of the grading mark first. Be sure to place fence posts close to buildings where animal containment is important.

Step 7 – After setting each post for the slope, backfill with soil and step on the backfill to hold the post level. Repeat for all posts in that fence length.

After “pogging” the post into the hole with concrete mix, fill it up with loose dirt. Lower the post while stepping on dirt around the post. This will help keep the post vertical in the hole.

Step 8 – View Post. To “see” inside posts, stand at the end of the fence and look over the tops of the posts. Adjust the height of the posts as needed to accommodate gradual pitches and changes in grade. The goal is to have smooth transitions between posts and avoid sharp changes. This is easiest to do with two people: one person sights the post while the other aligns and checks the post plummet. Be sure to check each post plumb after adjusting and observe the grading mark as noted above.

Once the posts are level, look over the tops of the erected posts and raise or lower them slightly to level the top of the fence. Remember, if you bury your grade mark slightly on one or more posts, plan to dig the same amount for the chain link fabric. The grade marks represent the bottom of the chain link fence. If your grade mark is 4 inches off the ground, that is your fence and you can fill in underneath.

Note: Although most fences are simply installed to be level or flow with the contour of the terrain, some applications are better off being perfectly level, e.g. If excavation, grading or asphalt/concrete is to be poured later or is already in place, the fence may need to be installed perfectly level. If this is the case, sifting with grade marks, using a plumb line with a spirit level, or a crossbar helps immensely.

Step 9 – Install gate posts with the exact opening size as recommended by the gate supplier or manufacturer. The opening dimension is the distance between the two goal posts from the inside to the inside. If possible, level the tops of the goalposts by placing a post over the tops of the posts and checking with a spirit level. If the ground below the goal drops sharply, level the goal posts. It won’t look right to level them.

Step 10 – Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding with work.

Installation of post fittings:

Typical diagram for attaching terminal posts

View of the bottom support strap for the bottom wire and four tension straps for a 5 foot high chain link fence. View is from the inside of the fence. Note that the straps are offset so that the flat side faces out.

End post with tightening strap screwed to rail end cap. All nuts face the inside of the chain link fence casing.

Combo rail end caps (with holes in them for truss rods) can be used for the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail to connect the fence rail to the end posts.

Proper installation of rail end caps and strut tape for a chain link fence corner post. Note that one is facing up and the other is facing down. This means that the upper rail can also remain at such an intersection.

A chain link turnbuckle with nut and bolt and 5 turnbuckles are used for a 6 foot high chain link fence.

Here barbed wire arms are used as loop caps for a 6ft high plus 1ft barbed wire link fence.

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

Step 1 – Attach Tie Down Straps to End and Corner Posts.

Step 2 – Number of straps per hanger = fence height minus one; at least three. For example, a 4 foot high chain link fence requires three tension straps per post.

Step 3 – A hook-up is any connection of a chain link to an end or corner post. End posts have a connector; Corner posts have two connectors.

Step 4 – First attach a support strap that will be used when installing the lower guy wire. This fitting requires a standard 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ fence bolt and nut. Install the nut and bolt loosely.

Step 5 – Next, install tension straps. The straps are offset. The offset (flat side) faces out, the same side that the chain link webbing will be installed on. This is usually the outside of the enclosed area. Do not attach nuts and bolts to these.

Step 6 – Place one support band per hook-up over the tension bands. This attachment requires a rail end cap, bolt and nut. This tape and cup will be used for the top rail. Tighten with ratchet and nut.

Step 7 – The rail end cap is also relocated. This offset can be up or down on an end post. Regardless of whether you position the cup up or down, stay consistent. Since two sets of strut straps and rail end caps must share the same space at a corner, the bottom rail end cap must be moved up and the bottom rail end cap moved down. This allows the two cups to be level with each other, allowing your top rail to insert into the cups and be level with each other.

Step 8 – Usually all the nuts are kept on the inside of the fence; This prevents someone from outside from easily removing the nuts. For high security applications, the threads on the bolt can be “hammered” to prevent easy removal. To do this, use a hammer and chisel, twisting the threads on the bolt so that the nut cannot be removed.

Step 9 – Place the Post Caps onto the Posts. The end and corner post caps are simple. There is only one way to install them. The loop caps, as they are called, are offset if you look closely. The offset side faces the outside of the case; The same side as the chain link is installed. Chain link loop caps are available in aluminum or pressed steel with an electroplated finish. If barbed wire is to be installed, substitute barbed wire in place of the standard chain link fence loop caps. Chain Link 3 Wire Barbarms are available in 45 Degree Barbarm, Straight Vertical Barbarm and Adjustable Barbarm. We also stock a 6 core barbarm.

Fence Tip: You can pre-squeeze ribbons after they’ve been slid onto posts. This is essentially done by clamping tensioning straps and tensioning straps together with fence pliers. Make sure the screw holes stay aligned as you press the straps shut. Later, when you connect the chain link pulley to the end posts, you’ll be thankful that the straps were pre-compressed, as you can now put your 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nut and bolt through and thread the fence nut much easier one.

Installing the top/bottom rail:

Typical top rail assembly diagram

Loop caps simply slide onto the posts. Top rail slides through horizontally.

The offset of the loop cap faces outwards. This will help keep the frame flush with the fabric side of the chain link fence.

The top rail sits on top of the line posts and runs to the end posts.

1-3/8″ and 1-5/8″, popular top rail sizes, are available with curved or plain ends. Plain End Top Rail requires sleeves as shown above.

Chain link fence top rail with plain ends requires top rail sleeves. The heavy industrial top rail HF40 is only available with plain ends.

The HF20 top rail and lighter are available with a beveled end, no sleeve required.

A hacksaw, chop saw, saw tooth, pipe cutter, or portable band saw is used to cut the top rail.

Chain link fence with finished top rail. After the frame, the chain link fabric can be stretched.

Step 1 – Slide the top rail through a couple of loop caps and the butt end firmly into the rail end cap. If necessary, adjust the height of the rail end cap. Tighten rail end cap firmly.

Step 2 – Some top rails have a “bent” end that tapers down to fit another piece of rail. Fit the unkeyed end into the rail end cap on the end or corner post.

Step 3 – Add rail sections by sliding each unupset end into an upset end. Be sure to slide the rails toward your starting point to “seat” them fully into each other. Press hard. If the top rail doesn’t have a beveled end, you’ll need a “sleeve” to act as a coupler.

Step 4 – Add an additional top rail until you reach the next end post i.e. H. End, corner, goal posts.

Step 5 – Cut off excess rail with hacksaw or pipe cutter. Carefully mark the separation point so the rail fits snugly into the rail end cap. Any slack in your entire length of track will allow the chain link, when taut, to pull the end posts towards each other. Tip: Each piece of track should be supported by two posts. Do not cut the rail so that there is a seam between the last line post and the end post. This point is weak and tends to sag.

Step 6 – Install the top rail in all fence sections. At this point, visually check the height of the line posts once the top rail is installed. If a post is too tall, remove the rail and trim as needed.

Fence Tip: If a post is 1/4″ too short, you can also cut a piece of tubing the same diameter as the conduit post and slip it under the loop cap.

NOTE: Industrial construction sites occasionally substitute a top guy wire in place of the top rail to reduce costs. If this is the case, you will need to brace and guy the end posts. Read more: How to brace and tie chain link fencing.

Install guy wire:

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4

Guy wire can be installed at the top and/or bottom of a chain link fence. The top tension wire helps reduce costs when used in place of the top rail. The bottom wire helps deter animals from digging and pushing out the underside of the fabric. It is often used with vinyl coated chain links as they tend to be more elastic. When tensioned, both types of wire are attached to the chain link with hog rings. It is easiest to install if one person holds the coil of wire upright while the other “leads” the loose end to the other end of the fence. The next step is to secure the loose end to the connector post with a tie wrap and nut and bolt. The loose end is fed through the stud and wrapped around the wire itself (Figs. 1 & 2). The lower tension wire is installed on the same side of the posts as the chain link fabric (Fig. 4). Once the chain link is stretched, the lower tension wire is “pinched” between the line/intermediate posts and the chain link fabric (Fig 10). When used as a top wire, thread the guy wire through the loop caps and connect to each connector post.

Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8

Guy wire is most commonly stretched with a come-a-long and wire grip. Do not wrap the Come-a-long cord around the post (Fig. 5). This repeated action will result in the cable becoming frayed and destroyed. Instead, a “sling” of rope or cable can be made to wrap around the expansion post (Fig. 6). Unthread and pull out 6-10 feet of cable from the carriage. The length of the cable to be pulled out depends on the length of the tension wire. Hook a cable puller to the ratchet end of the Come-A-Long. Fasten the tensioning wire to the cable (Fig. 7). Rotate the Come-a-long handle until the tension wire is taut (Figs. 7 & 9). Do not overtighten, otherwise damage or injury may result.

Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 12

With the Come-A-Long cranked tight, bend the guy wire where it would loop into the nut and bolt. Next, cut 6-8 inches past that bend with bolt cutters. Be careful as both ends of the wire can ‘whip’ from the tension and be dangerous. Fish the looped end of the wire through the nut and bolt and wrap as before. Unlock long wire, repeat process for other fence runs. Note: Short lengths, approximately 12′ and less, are difficult to make with a long wire. These are often simply made by hand. The tension wire, of course, has crimps in it. With the use of pliers in their open position, these crimps can be crimped further, making the wire tighter (Fig. 8). Be sure to crimp the entire length for a consistent look.

Figure 13 Figure 14 Figure 15 Figure 16

Once the guy wire is installed, the chain link fabric can be stretched. The chain link is installed to end posts with tension rods, tension straps and nuts and bolts. Often one end is installed with the roller upright for convenience (Fig. 14). The roll can then be laid flat on the floor and rolled to the other end. Additional rolls can easily be added and weaving is done easily on the flat ground. The chain link is stretched for longer distances (20 feet or more) with an extension and spreader bar. For shorter distances (20 feet or less) a pul-jak is used (Fig. 15). Because tension bands are installed equidistant from each other, typically the lower brace band that holds the tension wire can be adjusted so that the tension wire is centered on the lower diamond of the fabric. The top rail, line posts are tied last. Hog rings are installed to secure the guy wire to the chain link fabric using hog ring pliers.

Stretching Chain Link Fabric:

Hang the chain link fence from one end post and unroll it to the other end. It is best to lay out chain link rollers flat for longer distances.

Tension the chain link fence using a turnbuckle, a cross-country skid, and a turnbuckle.

For longer stretches of fence, you have to step up.

A Pul-Jak is the ideal tool for short sections of fence. Remove a fabric to “cut” the fabric to the correct length.

Secure straps with 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ nuts and bolts. Adjust the height before tightening. Inside view of the fence: Note that the flat side of the tension strap is facing out, the nut is on the inside.

Adjust the height carefully before tightening the nuts and bolts.

Make sure the top chain link is centered on the bar before tying.

The finished chain link fence.

Step 1 – Start at one end of a fence line and roll the chain link on the outside of the fenced area or side you previously selected.

Step 2 – Unroll another roll if more is needed to reach the next end post. The chain link is stretched in a continuous length of woven chain link from end post to end post.

Step 3 – “Weave” chain link rolls up. This can be a little tricky if you’ve never done it before and requires some explanation.

Each weave is continuous from top to bottom along the vertical or height of the roll. If you follow the strand, starting at the top, you will see that it zigzags back and forth downwards. It begins and ends with either a “knuckled” or a “twisted” ending.

To remove a tissue, straighten the end of the tissue knuckle. Unbend the adjacent tissue tied to it. If it has a twisted end, simply twist the two weaves until they can be separated.

Follow the weave to the other end as it zigzags back and forth and loosen or untie the opposite end. Be sure you follow carefully so that you undo the correct weave.

Twist the webbing at the top or bottom of the fence counterclockwise as if trying to unscrew it from the roll. Most newly manufactured links rotate counter-clockwise, while some links manufactured years ago rotate clockwise. Keep twisting and you will see the other end detach from the adjacent ties. If you’re having trouble, you may have separated the wrong tissues on the other end. Also check to see if you’ve straightened the other end or if it’s snagging when you try to twist it. Another problem that can arise is that the chain link is too tight; relax a little.

The process of weaving two rolls together is exactly the opposite, except that it can be difficult to get started. It is easiest to weave two rolls together when they are lying flat on the ground, but rolls can also be woven together in an upright position.

Begin weaving: links of chain form squares, or “diamonds” as they are commonly called. You must join two sections or rolls together before you start weaving so that one roll has a full diamond and the other roll has a half diamond. This game is located at the top and bottom of the reels. Adding a weave will end up with a full diamond and two ends that you can knuckle or twist.

Many spools of chain link have a loose wire in the spool. Use this to join two reels together or remove a wire from one of the reels to splice with. Twist the single weave into the first full diamond. Spin it through the next full diamond on the other reel. Continue twisting, making sure the weave end goes through each full diamond on each pulley with each twist.

If you are having trouble, it may be due to one or more of the following reasons: your chain link is too tight; loosen up a bit. You missed a diamond somewhere; unravel and try again. Last. You may have mismatched reels made by different manufacturers or the reels have different mesh sizes. Count the number of full diamonds in each roll, they should match in number and size.

After successfully weaving the two rolls together, twist or knot the ends back together. If you don’t have a backing fabric to attach, you started with either two half diamonds on each roll or two full diamonds on each roll. Take it apart and try again. Sometimes you need to flip a roll (most have a half diamond on one end and a full diamond on the other) or remove a fabric from a roll to create an initial half or full diamond.

Step 4 – After unrolling the chain link and weaving the rollers together, connect one end. Distribute the straps evenly as shown above (Fig. F51). Make sure the nuts are on the inside of the fence so they can’t be removed from outside the enclosure.

If you have a strong slope approaching an end post, the fabric will need to be trimmed at the end. This is called a bevel cut. Read more: How to preload chain links.

Step 5 – Hand tighten the chain link to the other end. You can stand the chain link up and lean against the posts, or leave it on the floor and lean it up while you stretch the fabric later. In general, the later is lighter and better over long distances.

Step 6 – Connect the stretching tools as shown on the inside of the fence (Fig. F51). Slide a tie rod 10-12′ vertically into chain link webbing; Hook the stretch bar inside.

Step 7 – Make sure the hook for the extension is pointing away from the fabric or it may get caught in the diamonds.

Step 8 – Slowly tighten the Come-A-Long. Make sure the fabric does not catch on posts, tree roots, or other obstacles.

Step 9 – Pull on the fabric as you tighten it. During “dressing” the fabric diamonds are straightened so that they run smoothly. This is important for heavier fabrics. Some points will be higher than others as you look up. Lift the fabric at the lower points. This must be done before the fabric becomes too tight. Once set, little can be done to flatten the fabric. Some fabrics dress easily, some don’t. If the fabric doesn’t tighten properly, you can always untie the Come-A-Long and try again. Check the top and bottom diamonds for wires that may not be shaped correctly. Lift and shake the fabric to ensure even tension across the entire roll(s).

Step 10 – The fabric is stretched enough when you can’t pinch the diamonds together with one hand. Do not overstretch, otherwise damage will occur. The top of the fence should snap back against the post when pulled out a little.

Step 11 – Hand stretch the small section of chain link that remains between the Come-A-Long and the End Post. Remove a fabric to “cut” the fabric to the correct length. Slide the tie rod into the mesh and make your final connection. Once all the screws are in place, remove the tension tools.

Tying down the fence:

Step 1 – First attach the zip ties to the top rail to set the height of the fence. The top diamond of the chain link should be centered on the top rail. – First attach zip ties to the top rail to set the height of the fence. The top diamond of the chain link should be centered on the top rail. Step 2 – Space the zip ties evenly and no more than 2 feet apart. Step 3 – Post the connecting line last. Use the same number of cable ties per conductor post as tension bands per terminal. This amount is at least 1 per foot.

Installing Chain Link Gates:

There are many different types of hinges and latches on the market today for use with chain link doors. Most are self-explanatory and do not include installation instructions. Installation instructions usually accompany the more complicated hinges and latches.

Individual swing gates:

Basic hardware for swing gates

Step 1 – Install female hinges on gates with nuts and bolts. Again, nuts should be installed on the inside of the case. Space them as far apart as possible.

Step 2 – Hold the gate in the opening and mark the position of the male hinges. Point the bottom male hinge up and the top down.

Step 3 – Assemble the bottom and top outside hinges with screws. Tighten the bottom hinge, but leave the top hinge loose.

Step 4 – Place the gate on the bottom hinge and lower the top male hinge into the female hinge.

Step 5 – If the space under the gate is acceptable. Tighten the top pin hinge securely.

Step 6 – Test the gate to see if it misses the ground. Adjust as needed.

Step 7 – Tighten all hinge bolts. Don’t overdo it.

Step 8 – Mount the latch at a comfortable height (nuts inside).

double swing gates:

For double wing gates, you should assemble the gate closest to the ground first, unless the ground is perfectly level. Attach the second tier of gates to the first. Although you can “step down” the gates for a tight fit on the ground, installing them at the same height looks best.

Follow steps 1-7 from above to hang the gates. After that, follow the steps below to lock the gates together.

Drop Rod & Center Stops

Step 8 – Assemble the double gate drop bar/latch assembly.

Step 9 – Install the center stop for the double swing gate. Close the double gate, making sure the two wings are aligned (straight with fence line). Mark the floor where the center stop needs to be installed. You can simply use a cut piece of pipe as a center stop by driving it into the ground. Proceed slowly and check the gate to make sure you are driving the pipe straight. You can also use a pre-made center stop and cement it in for a better look. If the center stop is in a concrete drive, simply drill a hole in the concrete larger than the drop rod diameter. Be sure to drill through the concrete drive to allow the water to drain. Always make a much larger hole (or pipe size) than the drop rod diameter to allow for gate sag, jamb shifting, ice and other factors.

Optional step – Install gate holdbacks if desired. Open gate(s) to desired “open” position. Cement or drive a 2″ OD post a few inches past this point. Install the restraint at the correct height using the supplied U-bolts.

Final Step – Install all of the post caps.

sliding gates:

Cantilever gate with chain links

Roller shutter with chain links

Read more: Overview of Cantilever Chain Link Gate System | Chain Link Boom Installation Guide | Overview of the chain link roller door system

Without having to dig, here are four different ways to install a fence post.

Installing a fence can be time consuming and expensive. Fortunately, there are alternative methods of erecting a fence that are less expensive and require less effort.

The most effective way to install the fence post is to use a metal nail and a sledgehammer. A metal nail is stuck to the ground, and the sledgehammer provides the force necessary to drive the nail deep enough to secure the post. There are four other options in total.

Because every yard and fence area is unique, a non-digging method for setting a post may not be effective for you. Read on to find out how to place your unique fence post in the most convenient way for you!