Branches For Chameleon Cage? The 41 Latest Answer

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Aside from your pet chameleon himself, plants are the star of the show when it comes to building a beautiful home for your new scaly friend. Veil, Jackson and panther chameleons are the main species kept as pets and their natural habitats are covered in lush greenery. The more closely you replicate their natural habitat, the happier they will be.

The best way to do this is to fill your chameleon’s enclosure with lots of lush live plants. For these reasons I say living plants instead of artificial ones.

They offer your chameleon a lot of shelter in which to hide and feel safe. This helps reduce stress and prevent stress-related illnesses.

Chameleons only drink water droplets from plants. Of course drips form on plastic leaves, but what is more natural than fresh water droplets forming on fresh green leaves?

Live plants help maintain humidity levels in the enclosure. Living breathing plants help to ensure that the air does not become too dry, especially in winter.

Chameleons sometimes eat plant matter. I don’t need to tell you the dangers of mistaking a plastic plant for a real one and eating it for your chameleon.

Living plants produce more oxygen. Chameleons aren’t naturally cut out for stuffy homes, so there’s no better way to compensate by using live plants to provide that extra boost of clean air and fresh oxygen for your chameleon to thrive.

Chameleons are primarily tree dwellers. This means they spend 99% of their time in trees, so they need good, strong plants to climb around in their cage.

Many of the plants on this list I have tried myself, many more come from my own research, but most importantly they are all safe for your chameleon as not all plants are created equal.

You can’t just pick any old plant for your chameleon and hope for the best. Most plants that exist will harm your chameleon by either irritating their skin or causing more serious problems if ingested. None of the ones listed here cause problems.

I’ve organized the list into four categories, hanging baskets, foliage, a few climbing plants, and filler plants to make the habitat look nicer and to break up the foliage a bit.

I’ve also made sure that all of the plants on this list are for those of you who are new to or more advanced at plant care.

So, without further ado, here is a list of the 25 best and safest plants for your chameleon’s cage.

hanging baskets

Hanging baskets should be included in any good chameleon setup. They are not a necessity but I think they not only look great but give your chameleon a chance to hide high up in their enclosure. The higher and more covered they are, the happier they will feel.

1. Golden Pothos

I’ll start with my absolute favorite plant for chameleon enclosures, the Golden Pothos, also known as Devil’s Ivy. It’s called that because it’s almost impossible to kill, believe me I had one hell of an attempt at killing mine and it refused to submit!

Not only are they difficult to kill, they are absolutely brilliant for your chameleon as they provide great foliage for cover, your chameleon will enjoy nibbling on them from time to time if they enjoy eating plant matter and they grow very quickly and easy. Not only that, the tendrils hanging down the sides of the hanging basket are excellent climbing frames for your chameleon. I spent many times watching my chameleon majestically climb the trailing tendrils of its pothos.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in any type of well-drained potting soil, preferably organic, to ensure your chameleon’s safety.

in any type of well-drained potting soil, preferably organic, to ensure the safety of your chameleon. Water only when the leaves droop a bit and only when the soil has dried out from the previous watering. Pour until water begins to ooze out of the bottom of the pot.

only when the leaves droop a little and only when the soil has dried out from the previous watering. Pour until water begins to ooze out of the bottom of the pot. Expose to direct but not bright light. Another reason Pothos are my favorite is that they do well in low light and are generally very forgiving.

direct but not bright light. Another reason Pothos are my favorite is that they do well in low light and are generally very forgiving. Feed it monthly with fertilizer specially formulated for houseplants

Pothos are widely available at most stores such as Home Depot, or you can get this two-pack from Amazon which you can then repot, one in a hanging basket and one in a soil pot. Both will quickly become established and grow in your chameleon’s enclosure.

2. Grape ivy

Another easy-to-grow climber that grows quickly with relatively little effort. It is called grape ivy because its leaves resemble those of grapevines.

It doesn’t quite have the thickness of the vines like the Pothos, but it definitely has good mulch. I’m definitely biased towards the pothos, but this is a good choice if you fancy something different.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in any type of well-drained potting soil, preferably organic, to ensure your chameleon’s safety. One formulated for African violets is a good choice.

in any type of well-drained potting soil, preferably organic, to ensure the safety of your chameleon. One formulated for African violets is a good choice. Water only when the soil has dried out from the previous watering. Pour until water begins to ooze out of the bottom of the pot.

only when the soil has dried out from the previous watering. Pour until water begins to ooze out of the bottom of the pot. Expose to direct but not bright light. They tolerate low light well, but tend to any light source, so keep this in mind if you want the plant to grow in a certain direction.

direct but not bright light. They tolerate low light well, but tend to any light source, so keep this in mind if you want the plant to grow in a certain direction. Feed it only once during the spring and summer months. Rich green leaves mean it’s well fed, but give them extra feeding if they start turning yellow.

3. Wandering Jew

This plant is a beautiful and colorful option for a hanging basket. Its name came about due to its ability to roam from place to place due to its prolific growth and ability to adapt to almost any environment. This reminded people of Jews in Biblical times, hence the nickname was born.

They grow quickly, regularly producing long stems and beautiful purple foliage that will add a pop of color to your chameleon’s enclosure.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in a commercial houseplant potting mix, preferably organic, to ensure the safety of your chameleon.

in any standard houseplant potting mix, preferably organic for the safety of your chameleon. Water deeply to allow the soil to dry out between waterings, about once a week. Do not water directly into the crown of the plant, but rather around the edges, otherwise this can lead to root rot.

Allow the soil to dry out deeply between waterings, about once a week. Do not water directly into the crown of the plant, but rather around the edges, otherwise this can lead to root rot. Expose to high, bright and indirect light

too strong, bright and indirect light Feed twice a month with general liquid houseplant fertilizer.

Wandering Jew plants are ideal for chameleon enclosures as they like good humidity and warmth and will appreciate regular misting of your chameleon. You can have a tried and tested one delivered by Amazon complete with a hanging basket.

4. Boston fern

Boston ferns offer dense foliage in a hanging basket shape that allows your chameleon to hide out of sight when needed. It has large feather-like leaves that are great for collecting water. While they don’t have the long trailing tendrils of the other hanging baskets mentioned, they offer that good foliage cover.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in peat moss soil combined with all-purpose potting soil. Make sure the soil drains well but is also able to hold some moisture.

in peat moss soil combined with all-purpose potting soil. Make sure the soil drains well but is also able to hold some moisture. Water fairly often to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Make sure it doesn’t dry out completely between waterings.

quite often to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Make sure it doesn’t dry out completely between waterings. Expose it to indirect light. I would not recommend placing them directly under heat or grow lights.

to indirect light. I would not recommend placing them directly under heat or grow lights. It is enough to give him a balanced houseplant fertilizer every two weeks.

All ferns require adequate humidity, making them perfect for a chameleon enclosure. Get one from Amazon if you like the look of the Boston Fern.

deciduous plants

Green plants make up the bulk of your chameleon’s enclosure. These are the plants your chameleon needs to provide the most foliage. You’ll need at least two, probably three or four, to cover your chameleon’s cage properly, but you can get as wild as you like here.

Be careful not to overdo it so you may end up never seeing your chameleon because it is so well hidden! I find a good balance of dense foliage and plants with well woody stems best for climbing work.

5. Ficus Benjamina

Also known as the weeping fig. This is probably the most popular plant used by chameleon keepers and any plant list is incomplete without it, but I personally have had a love-hate relationship with it.

When I first got one I thought it was amazing, really great foliage, solid stems for the chameleon to climb on and it just made the enclosure look so lush and green. Then a leaf fell off… then another… and another… and another… within a week the whole thing was bare and the floor of the enclosure was covered in leaves!

I got another one and the same thing happened. I admitted in the beginning that I was never that good at taking care of plants and this leaf fall is probably largely due to this, but be warned this leaf fall is fairly common and can happen if the plant is moved too much as well over or under watered. However, don’t let my poor plant care efforts put you off as they make a fabulous choice for your chameleon.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in fast-draining potting soil. A good organic houseplant mix is ​​sufficient

in fast-draining potting soil. A good organic houseplant mix will do. Water very evenly and only when the soil has dried to a depth of approx. 3 cm but is not completely damp. Spraying your chameleon naturally should be enough to keep them happy, but too much or too little water can lead to leaf drop.

very consistently and only when the soil has dried about 3 cm deep but is not completely moist. Spraying your chameleon naturally should be enough to keep them happy, but too much or too little water can lead to leaf drop. Expose it to lots of bright light, both direct and indirect. If it can get light from a nearby window, it will do well. In low light conditions, they shed their leaves.

too much bright light both direct and indirect. If it can get light from a nearby window, it will do well. In low light conditions, they shed their leaves. Feed once a week with liquid houseplant fertilizer. Ficus plants are heavy feeders and require so much during the growing season. Cut back once every two weeks in fall and winter.

Weeping figs require tropical and humid conditions for the interior of a chameleon enclosure to be perfect. However, they are finicky and therefore require more maintenance than other deciduous plants. This well established one on Amazon is a great size for a chameleon cage.

6. Dragon Tree

Dragon trees provide good leaf cover and they usually have one or two thick trunks that are excellent for chameleons to perch on vertically. They look a bit like small palm trees and grow quite slowly, so it’s better to buy a more established one. They are very hardy plants and will forgive any mistakes you might make.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it loosely packed in good quality organic houseplant soil and make sure the pot is big enough to accommodate its complex root system.

loosely packed in good organic houseplant soil, making sure the pot is large enough to accommodate its complex root system. Water when the top half of the soil is dry. Overhydration can happen fairly easily, so do it every two to three weeks to make sure she stays healthy. Brown-tipped leaves usually mean too much water and yellow means it needs more. If possible, wash with distilled water, but this is not essential.

when the top half of the earth is dry. Overhydration can happen fairly easily, so do it every two to three weeks to make sure she stays healthy. Brown-tipped leaves usually mean too much water and yellow means it needs more. If possible, wash with distilled water, but this is not essential. Expose it to bright light, but they can also work well in low light, so it’s a good choice for those of you with dimly lit homes.

too bright light, but they can also work well in low light, so it’s a good choice for those of you with dimly lit homes. Feed them very lightly as they don’t need it at all. Even a gift at the beginning of spring fulfills their annual requirements.

7. Salon palm

House palms are an excellent foliage choice for chameleon cages. Their rich green leaves can cover an entire enclosure and are great for catching drops of water for your chameleon to drink from, but their stems aren’t sturdy enough to climb on.

Help it thrive by:

Keep good organic potting soil, but be careful not to break it down too much so it becomes too soft.

a good organic potting soil, but be careful not to break it down too much so it becomes too soft. Water them sparingly and keep the soil evenly moist. Palm trees are quite prone to overwatering and their leaves will start to brown if they have too much. Water evenly around the soil when the top inches are dry.

sparingly and keeps the soil evenly moist. Palm trees are quite prone to overwatering and their leaves will start to brown if they have too much. Water evenly around the soil when the top inches are dry. Expose it to low light as these palm trees are considered low light, so another good choice for darker apartments. They thrive in bright, filtered light, so near a window is best.

too little light as these palms are considered low light, so another good choice for darker apartments. They thrive in bright, filtered light, so near a window is best. Only fertilize it once or twice a year during the growing season with a light fertilizer. Parlor palms have a poor appetite for plant food.

Parlor palms are very slow growers, so I recommend purchasing a larger, established palm like this one to place directly in your chameleon’s cage.

8. Areca Palm

Staying on the palm theme, the areca palm, also known as the butterfly palm, is arguably an even better choice than the parlor palm. It has sturdy stems that are tightly packed together for your chameleon to nest, climb and hide in. Its leaves are similar to those of the salon, but because they are more densely packed, they appear larger and are better suited to catching water droplets at the time of misting.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in well-drained potting soil that is loosely packed.

in well-draining potting soil that is loosely packed. Water them in a similar manner to the parlor palm as, like most palms, they are sensitive to overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

in a similar way to the parlor palm in that, like most palms, it is sensitive to overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Expose it to bright light. Giving him a few hours a week out in the direct sun also helps. One downside to areca palms is that they don’t do well in low light.

too bright light. Giving him a few hours a week out in the direct sun also helps. One downside to areca palms is that they don’t do well in low light. Feed it exactly as you would a house palm. They don’t need a lot of fertilizer to thrive.

These palms are also slow growers, so it’s best to save a fully established one like this one.

9. Schefflera tree

Also known as the dwarf umbrella tree, it has glossy green leaves hanging down from its stems in what an umbrella might look like. They thrive in tropical climates, making them ideal for a chameleon’s enclosure.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in a loosely packed sandy soil that drains well.

in a loosely packed sandy soil that drains well. Water weekly or wait until the soil dries out completely, then fully soak the soil again. Both prevent overwatering, a common killer of these plants.

weekly or wait until the soil dries out completely and then soak the soil again completely. Both prevent overwatering, a common killer of these plants. Expose it to bright but indirect light. Air it outside in the shade in summer but do not put direct light as this will burn the leaves.

bright but indirect light. Air it outside in the shade in summer but do not put direct light as this will burn the leaves. Feed it twice a week with liquid houseplant fertilizer. Umbrella trees are very hungry plants and will thrive on this schedule. Do not feed in winter.

Umbrella trees will enjoy spraying your chameleon regularly, and well-established ones can be ordered here.

10. Corn plant

A classic houseplant, popular since the mid-1700s for its thick, tree-like stems and long, narrow leaves like those found in cornfields. Their popularity also stems from the fact that they can tolerate some neglect. So if you’re pretty bad at keeping plants alive, this might be a good choice for you.

Help it thrive by:

Grow it in any good, solid, well-draining potting soil used for most common houseplants.

Pour it down with distilled water if possible, but don’t worry if you can. These plants like to stay moist but tend to let them dry out more before watering again. Brown tips on the leaves indicate that it is too dry.

with distilled water if possible, but don’t worry if you can. These plants like to stay moist but tend to let them dry out more before watering again. Brown tips on the leaves indicate that it is too dry. Exposing it to indirect, filtered sunlight will help tremendously. A chameleon’s cage is perfect for this.

to indirect filtered sunlight will help tremendously. A chameleon’s cage is perfect for this. Feeding it very lightly just once or twice a year is enough as it stores nutrients in its thick cane culms.

Get this classic plant at a good price here on Amazon.

11. Rubber Factory

The rubber plant gets its name because the sap it produces is used to make rubber. They grow up to 100 feet tall in the wild, but houseplants grow to about 6 feet tall. This maximum height, thick green and glossy leaves make them a pleasant addition to any chameleon’s cage.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in soil that is a mixture of bark, sand and soil

in soil that is a mixture of bark, sand and earth. Water it when the soil is almost dry to the touch, but don’t let it dry out too much or it will start shedding its leaves.

when the soil feels almost dry, but don’t let it dry out too much or it will start shedding its leaves. It’s okay to expose it to indirect light that close to a window. It does well in your chameleon’s enclosure as long as it is not placed under the heat lamp.

indirect light near a window is fine. It does well in your chameleon’s enclosure as long as it is not placed under the heat lamp. Fertilize it every two weeks with a commercial houseplant liquid fertilizer.

If you like the look of the rubber tree for your chameleon’s enclosure, you can have a renewable one delivered here.

12. Ti plant

I probably would have killed a ti plant but I really wish I had known about it when I had my chameleon. These beautiful leaves would make a wonderful colorful addition to any chameleon setup and wow these leaves are versatile! They’re used for things like thatched roofs, clothing, food packaging, and even liquor! In your chameleon’s cage, they make beautiful leaves for your chameleon to hide in and look great in contrast to their colors.

Help it thrive by:

Growing it in well-draining organic bark soil does wonders for a Ti plant.

in well-draining bark, organic soil will do wonders for a Ti plant. Water often enough to keep the soil moist. They also like to stay moist, so they go well with the regular mists your chameleon is receiving.

often enough to keep the soil moist. They also like to stay moist, so they go well with the regular mists your chameleon is receiving. Exposing it to indirect light, they like heat, so it’s fine if it’s a little closer to the sunlamp, but make sure your chameleon’s cage isn’t near drafts or cold spots. Your chameleon and Ti plant will thank you.

With indirect light, they like warmth, so it’s fine if you stay closer to the sunlamp, but make sure your chameleon’s cage isn’t near drafts or cold spots. Your chameleon and Ti plant will thank you. Fertilize with liquid fertilizer every two weeks from spring to autumn, but wait in winter.

13. Aspidistra plant

Also known as cast iron plant, is a plant with long, green, and hard-looking leathery leaves. It’s called cast iron because it’s ideal for low light conditions and can pretty much stand up to dust, cold, heat, over or under watering, and general neglect. So they’re perfect if you’re terrible at plant care like I am!

Help it thrive by:

Keep in a well-draining potting mix formulated for African violets.

in a well-draining potting mix formulated for African violets. Water it often enough to keep the soil moist. It can take a while to dry out, but don’t do this too often.

often enough to keep the soil moist. It can take a while to dry out, but don’t do this too often. Exposing it to literally any light or darkness will do fine, but the light in your chameleon’s enclosure will be more than enough for that.

to literally any light or dark and it will be fine, but the light in your chameleon’s enclosure will be more than enough for that. Feed it with liquid fertilizer every three months. These plants have very low requirements for common nutrients.

Cast iron plants grow extremely slowly. So if you are looking to buy one, I recommend one that is very well established so that it is suitable for your chameleon’s cage. This size from Amazon is ideal.

14. Hibiscus

I added a video to highlight a hibiscus plant because it shows why they are a good choice. Some chameleons, not all, but some love to eat hibiscus flowers. They contain a nice dose of vitamin C and are therefore beneficial for chameleon health.

It’s almost a shame that such a beautiful flower is devoured, but at the same time there’s something delightful about watching a chameleon eat one.

However, hibiscus are difficult to grow, so you might want to reconsider if keeping plants healthy isn’t your forte.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in a general purpose grounding mix will work well. The faster it drains, the better for your hibiscus.

in any general purpose grounding mix will work well. The faster it drains, the better for your hibiscus. Water thoroughly and allow the top inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Make sure you have a good drainage system.

thoroughly and allow the top inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Make sure you have a good drainage system. Exposing it to bright, direct light and allowing time outside is ideal, but bring it back inside before it gets too cold as hibiscus cannot tolerate cold weather.

to bright direct light, it is ideal to allow time outside but bring it back before it gets too cold as hibiscus do not tolerate cold weather. Feed a low-phosphorus and diluted liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

15. Yucca plant

To me, the yucca plant is like a cross between the dragon tree and the corn plant mentioned earlier in this list. So if you can’t decide between these two plants, the yucca plant is a good option. It has the same tube-like stem of the corn plant and leaves which, like the corn plant, have combined powers with the dragon plant to create a new leaf.

Help it thrive by:

Keep it in regular potting soil for houseplants, as yuccas are not fussy. However, as usual, make it organic and well-draining whenever possible to avoid root rot.

in commercially available potting soil for indoor plants, as yuccas are not fussy. However, as usual, make it organic and well-draining whenever possible to avoid root rot. Water lightly once a week as yuccas are very drought tolerant. Soak it generously once a month to keep it going, and hold it back a bit during the winter months.

easily once a week as yuccas are very drought tolerant. Soak it generously once a month to keep it going, and hold it back a bit during the winter months. Exposing it to partial light is fine, so not directly under the heat lamp.

Partial light, i.e. not directly under the heat lamp, is fine. Fertilize every few weeks with a good liquid houseplant fertilizer during the growing months between spring and late summer.

Yucca plants are slow growing so a more mature one like this one from Amazon would be my recommendation for your chameleon enclosure.

16. Schweizer Käsefabrik

Ein weiterer absoluter Klassiker unter den Zimmerpflanzen ist die Schweizer Käsepflanze, auch Spaltblatt-Philodendron genannt. Diese Pflanze ist eine große, glänzende, pflegeleichte tropische Schönheit, die sich perfekt für Chamäleonkäfige eignet. Diese Pflanze, die im mexikanischen und indischen Dschungel beheimatet ist, wächst schnell und einfach und entwickelt riesige Blätter, in denen sich Ihr Chamäleon verstecken und daraus trinken kann.

Helfen Sie ihm zu gedeihen, indem Sie:

Halten Sie es in reichhaltiger organischer Erde mit etwas Torfmoos, wenn möglich. Stellen Sie sicher, dass es gut abfließt, um Wurzelfäule zu vermeiden.

in reicher organischer Erde mit etwas Torf, wenn möglich. Stellen Sie sicher, dass es gut abfließt, um Wurzelfäule zu vermeiden. Gießen Sie es, bis es aus dem Boden abfließt, und dann erneut, sobald das obere Drittel der Erde getrocknet ist. Die Erde muss die meiste Zeit feucht, aber nicht zu nass gehalten werden.

bis es aus dem Boden abfließt und dann noch einmal, wenn das obere Drittel der Erde ausgetrocknet ist. Die Erde muss die meiste Zeit feucht, aber nicht zu nass gehalten werden. Setzen Sie es mittlerem oder hellem Licht aus, damit es in einem Chamäleonkäfig unter den Lichtern sehr gut gedeiht.

zu mittleren oder hellen Lichtern, so dass es in einem Chamäleonkäfig unter den Lichtern sehr gut gedeiht. Alle zwei Wochen mit verdünntem und ausgewogenem Flüssigdünger füttern

Diese Pflanzen wachsen schnell, also spielt es keine Rolle, welche Reife Sie bekommen, es hängt alles davon ab, wie lange Sie bereit sind zu warten, bis sie eine geeignete Höhe erreicht haben. Eine gute Auswahl davon finden Sie auf der Seite dieses beliebten Verkäufers bei Amazon.

17. Japanische Aralia

Als mein Chamäleon etwa vier Jahre alt war, stellte ich mir eine Abwechslung in seiner gewohnten Pflanzenfolge vor und diese Pflanze fiel mir ins Auge. Die Aralia sieht fantastisch aus und wächst in Japan, Korea und Taiwan.

Mir gefiel die Tatsache, dass sie robust und einfach zu züchten war, große Blätter hatte und für chamäleonähnliche Bedingungen geeignet ist. Also probierte ich es aus und wurde nicht enttäuscht, es dauerte ungefähr drei Jahre, bevor es anfing zu welken, und mein Chamäleon liebte es.

Helfen Sie ihm zu gedeihen, indem Sie:

Bewahren Sie es in jeder Standard-Blumenerde auf, da sie nicht besonders wählerisch in Bezug auf Erde sind, aber wie die meisten Pflanzen auf dieser Liste macht es sich nicht gut, wenn es im Wasser stehen bleibt, also stellen Sie sicher, dass es gut abfließen kann.

in jeder Standard-Blumenerdemischung, da sie nicht besonders wählerisch in Bezug auf Erde sind, aber wie die meisten Pflanzen auf dieser Liste macht es sich nicht gut, wenn sie im Wasser stehen gelassen wird, also stellen Sie sicher, dass sie gut abfließen kann. Gießen Sie es jedes Mal, wenn Sie sehen, dass es zu trocknen beginnt. Es mag regelmäßige Feuchtigkeit, sitzt aber nicht gerne darin, so lange die oberste Erdschicht feucht bleibt, wird es gut gedeihen.

jedes Mal, wenn Sie sehen, dass es anfängt zu trocknen. Es mag regelmäßige Feuchtigkeit, sitzt aber nicht gerne darin, so lange die oberste Erdschicht feucht bleibt, wird es gut gedeihen. Setzen Sie es jeglicher Art von Licht im Gehäuse aus. Unter schattigen Bedingungen macht es sich sowieso gut, sodass die Lichter im Käfig des Chamäleons in Ordnung sind.

für jede Art von Licht im Gehäuse. Unter schattigen Bedingungen macht es sich sowieso gut, sodass die Lichter im Käfig des Chamäleons in Ordnung sind. Füttern Sie es während der gesamten Vegetationsperiode von Frühling bis Herbst etwa alle zehn Tage mit einem handelsüblichen Flüssigdünger für Zimmerpflanzen.

18. Bromelie

Als wir uns als Nächstes mehr blühenden Pflanzen zuwenden, dachte ich, wie könnte ich das besser abrunden als mit einer blühenden Blattpflanze. Ich gebe dir die Bromelie. Diese Pflanze wird leicht zu einer Höhe von 4 oder 5 Fuß heranwachsen, die die meisten anderen Laubpflanzen im Käfig erreichen. Darüber hinaus geben sie wunderschöne Blüten ab, für das Beste aus beiden Welten von Laub und Blume.

Helfen Sie ihm zu gedeihen, indem Sie:

Halten Sie es in schnell entwässernden Böden auf Torf- und Sandbasis.

in schnell entwässernden Böden auf Torf- und Sandbasis. Gießen Sie es wöchentlich und lassen Sie die Pflanze vollständig abtropfen. Stellen Sie es niemals in stehendes Wasser und reduzieren Sie das Gießen im Winter weiter.

wöchentlich und lassen Sie die Pflanze vollständig abtropfen. Stellen Sie es niemals in stehendes Wasser und reduzieren Sie das Gießen im Winter weiter. Setzen Sie es indirektem hellem Licht aus, also geben Sie ihm etwas Platz, um ungehinderten Zugang zu den Lichtern im Gehege zu haben.

zu indirektem hellem Licht, also geben Sie ihm etwas Platz, um ungehinderten Zugang zu den Lichtern im Gehege zu haben. Füttern Sie es alle zwei Wochen mit Flüssigdünger.

Eine gut etablierte kann für einen angemessenen Preis von Amazon geliefert werden.

Kletterer

Ich wollte hier ein paar Kletterer einschließen, weil sie faszinierend sind und bei richtiger Platzierung die Seiten des Geheges Ihres Chamäleons schön bedecken könnten. Falls Sie nicht wussten, dass Kletterpflanzen Pflanzen sind, die buchstäblich Wände, Spaliere und Gitterkäfige hochklettern! Ich finde, sie verleihen dem Gehege ein tolles Dschungel-Feeling, denn was wäre ein Dschungel ohne ein paar Lianen?

19. Passionsblume

Ich liebe Passionsblumen einfach, sie gehören zu meinen Favoriten. Schau dir nur diese Blumen an! Sie sind so farbenfroh und lebendig wie die Chamäleons selbst. Als ich erfuhr, dass sie chamäleonsicher sind, musste ich einfach einen in seinem Gehege ausprobieren.

Sie wachsen unglaublich schnell, so sehr, dass ich tatsächlich sehen konnte, wie sich die Reben bewegten und versuchten, einen Platz zu finden, an dem sie ihre Ranken einhaken konnten. Sie brauchen häufiges Beschneiden und Aufmerksamkeit, damit sie nicht zu sehr außer Kontrolle geraten.

Helfen Sie ihm zu gedeihen, indem Sie:

Halten Sie es in einer sehr reichhaltigen und schnell entwässernden Bodenmischung.

in a very rich and fast draining soil mix. Watering it extremely frequently, they need to be watered daily in a chameleon cage because the warmth inside there will dry out the soil quickly. The soil needs to be kept moist at all times.

extremely frequently, they need to be watered daily in a chameleon cage because the warmth inside there will dry out the soil quickly. The soil needs to be kept moist at all times. Exposing it to bright light at all times. This is the plant that will need the grow lights the most as they don’t do well in low light, something I discovered the hard way.

to bright light at all times. This is the plant that will need the grow lights the most as they don’t do well in low light, something I discovered the hard way. Feeding it once a week with liquid fertilzer. Passion flowers are very hungry and thirsty plants.

Passionflower are very easy to and quick to grow so it doesn’t matter what level of maturity you choose to buy at as before long you will have a p;ant ready for your chameleon to use.

20. Jasmine

Here’s a climber I wish I tried in my chameleon’s cage. They look fantastic, are prolific, have wonderful flowers and they make the enclosure smell delightful. They grow fairly easily indoors and tolerate temperatures up to 75 degrees so just about in line with the ambient temperature of the enclosure. Make sure you get common or poet’s jasmine though as these are the proper fragrant type. Star Jasmine look similar bot aren’t fragrant and may not be safe for chameleons.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in organic potting soil made up of bark and peat and, as usual, make sure it drains well.

in organic potting soil made up of bark and peat and, as usual, make sure it drains well. Watering it regularly so the soil stays moist but not soggy.

regularly so the soil stays moist but not soggy. Exposing it to indirect light which is perfect for your chameleon’s enclosure.

to indirect light which is perfect for your chameleon’s enclosure. Feeding it every few weeks with liquid plant fertilzer during the growing season of spring to summer.

Filler Plants

These flowering plants are not a necessary addition to your chameleon’s cage but they’re safe for your chameleon to be around and they just add a bit of extra color because when having a chameleon the more color the better! These plants should be placed around the enclosure on the floor and on the sides.

21. Gardenia

They look similar to jasmine so choose one or the other but they’re very well suited to a chameleon’s cage. They love humidity at around 50%, indirect light and a bit of cooling off so they’ll do well at the bottom of the enclosure.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in an organic, well draining potting soil that will be great for both your chameleon and the plant itself.

in an organic, well draining potting soil that will be great for both your chameleon and the plant itself. Watering it so that it stays moist but not so much that the soil is squishy to touch. Don’t let it dry out between waterings.

so that it stays moist but not so much that the soil is squishy to touch. Don’t let it dry out between waterings. Exposing it to indirect bright light will work best.

to indirect bright light will work best. Feeding it with fertilizer especially formulated for gardenias. They also like fertilizer suited for plants that like an acidic soil.

These plants are a bit trickier than most but worth persevering with for the pure white blooms and amazing fragrance they can bring.

22. Geraniums

Another classic of the house plant world that will look wonderful in your chameleon’s cage. Geraniums are pretty easy to care for and their red flowers will go well with a white or blue flowering plant or climber.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in good well drained organic potting soil. Any houseplant soil will work well for geraniums but organic is safer for your chameleon.

in good well drained organic potting soil. Any houseplant soil will work well for geraniums but organic is safer for your chameleon. Watering it well to begin with giving it a good soak. After that you only need to water it when it dries out completely.

well to begin with giving it a good soak. After that you only need to water it when it dries out completely. Exposing it to indirect light inside your chameleon’s cage, so anywhere on the floor is fine.

to indirect light inside your chameleon’s cage, so anywhere on the floor is fine. Feeding it with liquid houseplant feed every two weeks.

23. Wax Begonia

These plants are just like their name describes, they have waxy feeling leaves and bloom bright pinkish red waxy flowers. They are hardy, easy to grow and will do so up to two feet making them perfect the size to sit well at the bottom or on the sides of the enclosure.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in any light well draining potting soil.

in any light well draining potting soil. Watering it often enough so the soil stays moist but not soaking wet.

often enough so the soil stays moist but not soaking wet. Exposing it to bright filtered light so make sure there’s some space between the higher foliage plants for the begonia to get the light.

to bright filtered light so make sure there’s some space between the higher foliage plants for the begonia to get the light. Feeding it monthly with a diluted liquid fertilizer will do well for this plant.

24. Petunias

Petunias are pretty easy to grow plants from the nightshade family. No don’t worry they’re not poisonous they’re more related to peppers and potatoes. They’re small plants meaning you can plant a nice little carpet of them at the bottom. They give off beautiful purple flowers when they bloom.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in any good well draining and organic potting soil.

in any good well draining and organic potting soil. Watering it once a day or every other day when you feel the soil is dry.

once a day or every other day when you feel the soil is dry. Exposing it to bright direct light. This is a bit more challenging in chameleon cages as the light is filtered. They will still grown flowers just not as many as if they would in direct sunlight.

to bright direct light. This is a bit more challenging in chameleon cages as the light is filtered. They will still grown flowers just not as many as if they would in direct sunlight. Feeding it Once a month with a good dose of liquid fertilizer.

25. Easter Cactus

One of the few succulents on this list. Named so because it blooms its flower around the Easter holiday season. The leaves start out pale green and get darker with age but don’t worry they have no sharp spikes for your chameleon to hurt themselves on. These plants should work well in a chameleon’s enclosure because they need lots of darkness to grow flowers. The darkness at night for your chameleon will be sufficient, especially during winter when nights are longer.

Help it thrive by:

Keeping it in rough organic potting soil

in rough organic potting soil Watering it often enough to keep it moist but never soggy. In the month immediately after flowering water enough only to keep the soil slightly damp as the cactus needs to rest this time in order to flower again.

often enough to keep it moist but never soggy. In the month immediately after flowering water enough only to keep the soil slightly damp as the cactus needs to rest this time in order to flower again. Exposing it to partial bright light so perfect to place on the ground under a thick foliage plant. Covering with a pot to give plenty of dark at night will benefit it greatly.

to partial bright light so perfect to place on the ground under a thick foliage plant. Covering with a pot to give plenty of dark at night will benefit it greatly. Feeding it light liquid fertilizer every two weeks. Do not feed at all during the resting period for a month after flowering.

How to prepare plants for your chameleon

Most of these plants are available from Amazon and big stores like Home Depot and this means they will not be ready to use straight away in your chameleon’s cage because they would’ve been grown in soil treated with chemicals and most likely sprayed with pesticides and these can be harmful to your chameleon.

This doesn’t mean they’re unusable it just means you need to prepare them properly.

Some keepers like to soak their plants in soapy water to remove bacteria but I never did this and it seems a lot of hassle. You really only need to treat plants like you would vegetables you bought from the grocery store. Just give them a damn good soaking with water using either a hose or a shower. Do this a few times to remove any pesticide residue and you’ll be good to go.

With regards to soil I recommend repotting the plant in organic soil. This will reduce the risk of your chameleon being harmed by any chemicals in fertilizer laiden soil. As you may have read repeatedly in the list that nearly all these plants require well draining soil. There will be organic versions of all the types of soil you need readily available from store or your local plant nursery.

How to set up plants in the enclosure

My recommendation would be as follows:

One hanging basket hung on the opposite corner the heat lamp is on as it completes the top of the cage without leaving too much bare space but at the same time it doesn’t make it too crowded.

hung on the opposite corner the heat lamp is on as it completes the top of the cage without leaving too much bare space but at the same time it doesn’t make it too crowded. Two foliage plants you can have more of course but I wouldn’t recommend more than four as it can crowd things. This is down to personal taste and to how leafy the plants are but I always had two or three at the same time.

you can have more of course but I wouldn’t recommend more than four as it can crowd things. This is down to personal taste and to how leafy the plants are but I always had two or three at the same time. One climber plant place this one the bottom and try and get it to spread out across the floor and up both sides of the enclosure.

place this one the bottom and try and get it to spread out across the floor and up both sides of the enclosure. Three filler plants again this is down to personal taste and you can go wild here but two on the floor and one on the side half way up will make things look pleasing.

Run bendy vines like these between the plants to give your chameleon ample space and opportunity to climb around and feel comfortable.

General plant care tips

I’ve deliberately chosen plants that are all similar in their care needs so if you follow these general tips any of these plants should do well in the cage. Do make sure to look at the specific care tips given for the plants you end up choosing though.

Watering most of these plants need their soil to remain moist but not soaking so make sure to check the soil every time you carry out your daily feeding and watering routine for your chameleon to enable you not to over or underwater your plants.

most of these plants need their soil to remain moist but not soaking so make sure to check the soil every time you carry out your daily feeding and watering routine for your chameleon to enable you not to over or underwater your plants. Light nearly all of these plants need indirect light to thrive. Unfortunately the heat lamp and UVB bulb are insufficient for plant growth and only those plants suited to low light conditions will survive. The enclosure needs a bulb like this one to simulate the sun and produce light in the same spectrum.

nearly all of these plants need indirect light to thrive. Unfortunately the heat lamp and UVB bulb are insufficient for plant growth and only those plants suited to low light conditions will survive. The enclosure needs a bulb like this one to simulate the sun and produce light in the same spectrum. Soil you may have read on nearly every plant that the soil required is well draining. For most plants a good quality organic potting soil will work well. Some require a mixture so please look at the specifics of each plant but in general an organic mix will work fine. I say organic because it is safer for your chameleon as it will contain no harmful pesticides.

So that’s it for this guide I hope you found it useful and now have a better understanding of what plants are safe for your chameleon’s cage.

Would you like to spice up your chameleon’s enclosure with plants? Find out which plants are safe for your chameleon. In this guide you will learn: What are the benefits of plants in your enclosure?

What are chameleon-safe plants to add?

Which plants should be avoided?

Chameleons are beautiful and interesting animals that require careful care. Chameleons come from the rainforests and deserts of Africa and spend their lives in the wild in trees, climbing and hiding in the leaves. A good vivarium for your chameleon should replicate the living conditions of these lizards in their natural habitat with the right temperature, warmth, lighting and humidity. The moisture requirements of chameleons in particular are linked to the choice of plants.

Chameleons do not absorb water by drinking like other lizards. Instead, they drink the drops of water that fall from the leaves. They help keep moisture in the tank while purifying the air, creating a healthy and nature-like environment for your lizard. Plants also help create hiding spots for your chameleon to feel safe in, and since chameleons prefer to be left alone, this helps lower their stress levels.

This makes plants in your chameleon’s terrarium almost necessary, and choosing safe plants is of course a priority. This article will walk you through all the do’s and don’ts when choosing plants for your chameleon’s terrarium.

What to do before adding a plant to your chameleon’s enclosure

Chameleons tend to chew the leaves that are available to them, so it’s important that the plants you choose to add aren’t poisonous when consumed. Your skin can also be sensitive to common and seemingly harmless plants like crotons.

Important Anything you wish to add to your reptile’s terrarium should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. With plants, this ensures there are no pesticides or other toxins that could harm your chameleon.

Are artificial plants ok for chameleons?

While there isn’t any direct harm in having artificial plants in your chameleon’s enclosure, live plants have many other benefits. Although some fake plants are a safe option as they don’t contain any toxic chemicals. You don’t have to worry about them either and they are sturdy enough for your chameleon to climb. However, live plants maintain humidity in your chameleon’s cage and help purify the air.

Obviously, your chameleon can’t eat plastic plants, preventing it from getting some extra nutrients on top of its insect-based diet. It is possible for the color and texture to trick your chameleon into believing they are real plants, even if they are made of plastic, which can lead to choking and other digestive problems.

While artificial plants can be used as ornaments, they can never replace the qualities that real plants add to your chameleon’s enclosure. It is highly recommended that you use real plants in your lizard’s cage as it will provide more benefits than what artificial plants can provide.

Safe plants for chameleons

There is a wide range of plants that you can place in your chameleon’s enclosure. Opt for woody and leafy plants for maximum climbing and hiding areas. Drooping vines and large leaves add moisture and complete the look of a natural chameleon habitat. The best plants balance aesthetics, safety, and ease of care.

yucca

With a tropical appearance and resilient build, yucca is a great plant to add to your chameleon’s enclosure.

Yuccas are native to the southern United States and Central America, and originate from semi-desert areas. They endure high temperatures well and adapt quite well to different environments.

Benefits of Yucca Plants

Their dense foliage helps purify the air and offers chameleons plenty of hiding places. They have tree-like trunks that chameleons can easily climb compared to other plants.

Although it’s not their favorite choice as their leaves are very large, spiky, and thick, it’s safe for chameleons to eat yucca and drink the water droplets that form on its leaves.

How to care for yucca plants

Yucca plants are fairly easy to care for. They don’t require any special soil other than being well-draining to avoid root rot. However, replacing their original soil with organic soil will make it safer for your chameleon to be around the yucca plant.

Yuccas are fairly adaptable; They are extremely drought resistant and you can trim them to the size you want without fear of damaging them. The only downside is that yucca plant growth can be quite unpredictable because once you cut the stem, the plant quickly re-emerges from the cut.

The optimal light condition for yucca plants is partial shade. Let them enjoy a few hours of light each day without placing them in direct sun. If your yucca is turning yellow, it’s probably getting too much sun.

Weeping Figs

Ficus benjamina, commonly known as the weeping fig, suits a chameleon’s terrarium best. Weeping figs are one of the most common native plants thanks to their strength and adaptability.

Ficus benjamin or weeping fig

Benefits of Vine Figs

Ficus Benjamina maintains its tree shape regardless of its size. They are quite strong and therefore optimal for your chameleon to climb and hide. Their leaves are not poisonous to lizards and they resemble the natural habitat of chameleons.

How to care for weeping figs

Caring for weeping figs is fairly easy. They enjoy bright indirect or filtered light, so direct sunlight is not recommended. If your ficus starts shedding leaves, it’s probably being exposed to too much light and you should move it to a darker part of the terrarium.

However, Ficus doesn’t like being moved, so it’s better to find a good spot for them from the start. Ficus trees are also quite sensitive to low temperatures, but so are your chameleons, so that shouldn’t be a problem.

Ficus trees should never be kept in temperatures below 60°F, although they prefer environments above 70°F. They also need a humid environment, which is also perfect for your chameleon.

rubber trees

Similar to the weeping fig, rubber trees also belong to the ficus family. Ficus elastica is the technical name for rubber plants and refers to the nature of the leaves, which are large and extremely flexible. The lush foliage and solid build of gum trees make it a very good choice for your terrarium.

Ficus elastica or rubber tree

Benefits of Rubber Trees

They are quite strong and their large leaves and structure make them very easy for your chameleon to climb on. They also make great hiding spots for those moments when your pet doesn’t want to be seen. In addition, they do not require special care and adapt well to the living conditions of chameleons.

The downside of gum trees is that they can be mildly poisonous to your chameleon if eaten too often. You should monitor how much of the plant your chameleon eats to reduce the risk of poisoning.

How to care for rubber trees

Like the Ficus Benjamina, the Ficus Elastica or rubber tree does not like direct sunlight. Instead, she prefers indirect or filtered light. Regarding water, rubber trees should live in humid environments. You can check if your rubber tree is adjusting properly to the humidity level in your terrarium by observing its leaves. If they are green and healthy looking, there is no need to worry. On the contrary, if the leaves turn yellow or fall off, it means that the humidity is too high for your gum tree.

In terms of size, gum trees can get very large – since they are trees, if you plan to keep them in your lizard’s enclosure, you should trim them frequently to maintain their shape and size.

Dracaena compacta

The Dracaena compacta is a beautiful tree-shaped plant. It is commonly known as the compact dragon tree. The name refers to how the leaves are distributed in the tree in very compact clusters that grow from the main trunk. With its dark green foliage and exotic appearance, the Dracaena compacta is a popular choice for chameleon enclosures.

Benefits of Dracaena compacta

Unlike the rubber tree and other plants from the ficus family, the dracaena compacta grows very slowly, so you don’t have to worry about pruning.

How to care for Dracaena compacta?

Dracaenas are a low-maintenance plant. They need indirect sunlight and are best placed in corner rooms. Compact dragon trees don’t need frequent watering (once every ten days should be enough), but they do need some ambient humidity to stay healthy.

Exposing your plant to too much moisture will result in root rot, which you will notice when your plant begins to turn yellow. On the other hand, if the environment is too dry for your plant, the tips of the leaves will dry out. If you notice the first signs of overhydration or dehydration, you should act quickly because although dracaenas are quite resilient, once they show problems their health deteriorates quite quickly.

Golden Pothos

Golden pothos is an incredibly popular home plant, which is why it is known by very different names in different parts of the world.

One of the names it’s known for is devil’s ivy because it’s so easy to care for that it’s nearly impossible to kill. You can easily turn them into more than one plant by cutting off a part and replanting it to better fit your terrarium.

Golden Pothos

However, golden pothos have a downside as they can be mildly poisonous to your chameleon. This isn’t a problem unless your chameleon regularly eats golden pothos leaves, a case in which you should remove the plant from the cage. Pothos poisoning is extremely rare in chameleons, so you can still use this in your enclosure.

Benefits of Golden Pothos

Golden Pothos’ adaptability and beautiful foliage make it a perfect addition to your chameleon’s cage. It’s also widely used and fairly easy to grow and care for.

How to care for Golden Pothos?

As we have already said, golden pothos is one of the most adaptable plants. They can handle almost any type of light and will complement your terrarium perfectly. If you notice that they look a little dull, you should just water them and they will easily regain their original condition.

Gold pothos doesn’t have deep roots, so soil shouldn’t be a big problem either. You should make sure the soil they are planted in has a good drainage system as root rot is one of the few things that can seriously harm them.

hibiscus

Hibiscus plants are very common among lizard owners. They have beautiful and colorful flowers that add a tropical look to your terrarium. On the other hand, hibiscus plants are quite difficult to grow indoors, so even if they are a very good match for your pet, you should consider the trouble of putting one in his cage. An exception to this rule is the Hibiscus rosa-sinensis — commonly called Chinese hibiscus — which is much easier to care for than the rest of the plants in this family.

Hibiscus rosa sinensis

Benefits of Hibiscus

As well as being adorable flowers, hibiscus plants make a very nutritious dietary supplement for your chameleon. The flowers are completely safe for them and contain a good amount of vitamin C, which will nicely compensate for your chameleon’s insect-based diet. They also have fairly solid bushes that provide good hiding and climbing spots for your pet.

How do I care for a hibiscus plant?

Growing a hibiscus plant indoors can be quite challenging. One of the main requirements for a healthy hibiscus plant is bright light. They ideally need natural light and lots of it. If you want to keep a hibiscus plant in your lizard’s enclosure, consider having more than one plant so you can rotate it out of the cage to another spot with direct sunlight. So you always have a plant available for your chameleon to hide in.

To develop healthy buds, they need a variety of nutrients. You should use a potassium fertilizer during the summer months to keep the flowers looking beautiful.

While it may seem counterintuitive at first, hibiscus plants should also be trimmed once a year to keep them growing healthier and stronger in the coming months.

bromeliads

With a very peculiar appearance, bromeliads are a very good choice for your chameleon’s cage. Though bromeliads are known for their distinctive blooms, they don’t bloom until late in their lives. But whether they’re young and green or blooming in their final months, bromeliads are fairly easy to care for and will add a vibrant look to your lizard’s aquarium.

Benefits of Bromeliads

Bromeliads are thick enough for your chameleon to hide in. They’re also fairly hardy, so they’re a very safe option to include in your lizard’s aquarium. Their leaves are also strong enough to support your chameleon.

Colorful bromeliad plants

How to care for bromeliads

Bromeliads do best in warm and well-lit environments. They can adapt to strong exposure to UVB light, but would do better if they received direct sunlight frequently. Despite their exuberant appearance, bromeliads do not require any special care. Much like chameleons, bromeliads need moisture to stay in good shape, so they don’t have a hard time adapting to the living conditions of your chameleons.

What plants should be avoided for chameleons?

Many plants can endanger the well-being of your animals, usually by ingestion. Some of the most common plants that are poisonous to chameleons are fig plants, crotons, and most types of philodendrons.

fig plants

While some fig plants are safe for your chameleon, there are some types of fig plants that you should avoid around your lizard at all costs. These are the Zulu fig, the fiddle-leaf fig, and the creeping fig. They can be poisonous to your lizard and cause poisoning.

crotons

Crotons are a very popular houseplant that can be fatal to chameleons. Its brightly colored large leaves look great in a vivarium, but are extremely toxic if ingested. Croton is poisonous to almost all animals, so it shouldn’t be part of your chameleon’s environment

philodendrons

Philodendrons have become an extremely popular indoor plant. Its striking appearance with beautifully shaped leaves and dense foliage looks perfect for a chameleon to hide in. Unfortunately, most philodendrons are very poisonous. The sap the plant produces when its leaves break or cut can irritate your pet’s skin and mouth, and even kill them if they ingest too much.

Conclusion

Chameleon-safe plants are relatively easy to find and most are hardy enough to survive the environment of a chameleon terrarium and dense enough to provide good hiding spots. However, make sure that the plants you choose are non-toxic when ingested.

frequently asked Questions

Can chameleons eat fruit? Yes. Although chameleons are primarily insectivores, some fruits can be an excellent addition to their diet. Fruits high in calcium and low in phosphorus such as apples, blueberries, peaches, melons, bananas, and cantaloupe are fine for chameleons. All citrus fruits should be avoided as they are too bitter and can harm your pet. If you are feeding a chameleon fruit, make sure you have removed all of the seeds. Grinding the fruit up before feeding it will make it easier for them to eat. Are Hibiscus Trees Safe for Chameleons? Hibiscus trees are a good choice for lizards and chameleons are no exception. Hibiscus trees are non-toxic to your chameleon and an optimal choice for the cage. Is a fiddle leaf fig good for chameleons? Fiddle leaf figs are not a good diet option for your chameleon. They can irritate the sensitive skin of chameleons and lead to poisoning of your animal if eaten. Other types of fig plants to avoid if you have a chameleon are Zulu figs, creeping figs, and crotons. What are the best live plants for a chameleon cage? The best live plants to include in your chameleon’s enclosure, considering appearance and safety, are golden photos, yuccas, rubber trees, hibiscus, ficus benjamina, and ficus elastica. Some other plants you can include are the Schefflera arboricola (also known as the dwarf umbrella tree) and the split-leaf philodendron. These plants are safe for your chameleon to eat and drink from and provide good hiding and climbing opportunities. What plants can veiled chameleons eat? Veiled chameleons and panther chameleons can safely consume pothos leaves, ficus, kale, romaine lettuce, and other dark leafy greens. Chameleons remain insectivorous animals, but feeding them plants every now and then is a great way to supplement their diet.

references

Short article about plants and reptiles:

Reptiles and Houseplants: Growing plants for a terrarium with reptiles

Informative article on chameleon care:

Introduction to chameleon husbandry

Scientific article on the biology of chameleons:

(PDF) Biology of chameleons: an introduction

Basics of chameleon care:

Chameleon Basics

Fast Facts:

Veiled Chameleon

Is your chameleon insured? Get a £1,000 quote for Vet Expenses, Death and Theft Cover. Vet only coverage also available | We have been insuring exotic pets since 1996 | Check out our customer reviews on Feefo.

Click on the link to jump to the topic: What size pelvis does a chameleon need? | Chameleon Heater | What types of bulbs are needed for chameleons? | Sunspot temperature for a chameleon | What do chameleons drink from? | Humidity levels for chameleons | Do chameleons need heat lamps at night? | Chameleon lighting and UVB | Using UVB Lamps for Chameleons | Live plants for a chameleon varium | branches for a chameleon varium | How often should I clean the vivarium?

So the following Chameleon setup advice is based on my experience. And honestly, it works for me.

What size tank does a chameleon need?

Ideally, the XL Zoo-Med Reptibreeze cage or “at least” the medium-sized Arboreal Vivexotic Viva+ Medium wooden vivarium is ideal for one adult (do not house together).

Many like to start their young chameleons in smaller setups. That’s fine – something like Vivexotic Arboreal small or small/Med Reptibreeze is ideal.

But I’ve found that a young chameleon works perfectly right from the start in a large setup if you have lots of cover, foliage, UV and heat options.

You should have plenty of options for foiling, UV exposure, and sunbathing for your chameleon

Chameleon heater

Create your chameleon, a sun zone. Not just a branch under the lightbulb, but multiple horizontal and vertical options in this area.

This gives your chameleon a much wider range of temperatures in which to bask. Similar to wild conditions where they would use different branching levels.

Also, use foliage so your chameleon can seek out less heat and UVB exposure.

For me I see the best naturalistic activity when using a nice bright white bulb, although I am currently using one of the new Arcadia Deep Heat Projector bulbs on my female Veiled Chameleon.

This does not provide light, but infrared A and B wavelengths. And so far, after a month or so, it’s going amazingly well.

And I prefer my heat bulb arrangement outside of the build. So on top of the web – this is a much safer option.

Of course, if you can’t do this, make sure you use a lamp cage for protection within the setup.

It is also important to ensure that the chameleon cannot get close to or climb on this protective cage.

Check out the Corn Snake Setup Advice also written by Pete Hawkins.

What types of bulbs are needed for chameleons?

The size (wattage) of the bulb required here depends on a few factors.

Your own geographic location temperature

room temperature

Installation location (near the window, etc.)

setup size

All of this plays a big role in the bulb and wattage required for your setup.

I would suggest getting a few different wattages. See what best achieves the temperature you need, as it will ultimately be controlled by the thermostat anyway.

Also, always run your heat source through a thermostat. A dimmer thermostat is required for a light-emitting heat source.

I personally use the Microclimate Evos but there are many options. As long as it’s a dimmer.

Veil and panther chameleons bask at different temperatures

Sunspot temperature for a chameleon

Here are the vivarium temperatures I would aim for in your chameleon vivarium (using a digital thermometer when basking). Higher temperatures can cause problems:

Veiled Adult (age 1+) – 31c-35c (87f-95f)

Veiled Young (less than 1 year old) – slightly cooler. Around 29c/30c (84f-86f)

Panther Adult (1 year+) – 29c-30c (84f-86f)

Panther Young (under 1 year) 27c-28c (80f-82f)

And again, please make sure your chameleon, whatever subspecies, doesn’t get near or climb on the heat or UVB.

This leads to problems such as thermal burns, PKC (photo-kerato-conjunctivitis) and severe dehydration.

Do you own a bearded dragon? Check out what to feed your beard…

What do chameleons drink from?

Chameleons drink by licking the water droplets off the leaves. You can use a plant dropper or mist sprayer to provide the water droplets.

Plant Dripper: I love the Exo-Terra Plant Dripper.

I placed this in a tub with part of the lid cut out and holes drilled in the lid so I can wrap it around the stem.

This protects the pump and water and allows water to drip back, creating a cleaner circuit. Away from bugs, feces and dirt.

I have also used the Zoo-Med Big Dripper in addition to my setups in the past.

This is a simple tub or water dripping down the small faucet at your set rate. It then drips onto leaves within the setup.

Misting System, Manual Spraying: This is a must have for chameleon keepers. Of course, if you’re home most of the day, you can do it manually.

But there will be times when you will be absent and an automatic fogging system will be your salvation.

I have used most brands over the years and for me the Mist-King and Exo-Terra Monsoon systems are the best.

It’s all about setting up the spray nozzles in the setup, setting the timer and off you go.

Misting your Chameleon setup is a huge liquid option. Covering all of these plants well with water will allow your Cham to drink the leaves. So it’s a good thing.

Try not to spray your chameleon directly. Many get stressed about it, and stress is not good for any species.

It’s also worth noting….use warm water. This is much more comfortable for the chameleon when it does get wet. And it evaporates better, leading to moisture spikes in the setup. Again, this is a good thing.

I also use aquarium heaters in my Mist King reservoir. Set it to a toasty 30C and when it comes out of the jets it’s a nice warm temp of the mid 20C and they love that.

Unfortunately, hydration is the big chameleon killer and is still a major concern among chameleon keepers. This is also something I covered back in 2016 in an article in Practical Reptile Keeping magazine.

The best way to combat such problems is to provide as many methods of hydration as possible.

Beautiful chameleon colors

humidity for chameleons

I aim for around 40%-60% with my panther chameleon and keep the humidity high by misting it. I then let the setup dry completely before spraying the setup again.

What you want are humidity spikes. Staying low is almost as bad as staying high all the time. Therefore, please allow the setup to dry before spraying again if necessary.

The humidity level is exactly the same for a cloaked (Yemen) chameleon in terms of spines and drying out of the build-up.

Although I don’t spray it that much.

They naturally hail from a much drier geographical location. So a few sprays a day works for most.

Everything should be great for a veiled chameleon as long as the hydration options are there, even if it drops below 40% due to the slightly lower spray.

Humidity is a big part of a chameleon’s wellbeing and I use digital hydrometers in my setups to read this as well as the readings on my Microclimate Evo Pro thermostats.

Do chameleons need heat lamps at night?

In all my years of keeping reptiles I have not used night heating on many of my lizard species (e.g. dragons, chameleons, skinks, monitor lizards). And that’s the case with chameleons.

You could easily get down to 10°C (50°F) in this setup before you even think about the need for additional heat.

And honestly, whose house gets that cold before they turn on their own central heating and warm up the house and reptile setups with it? Nobody would go that deep.

The drop in temperature is actually very beneficial for them. Think about it. If you run a ceramic lamp at night that maintains these temperatures, there is little reason for them to sunbathe and recharge in the morning.

This “might” cause a reptile to sleep longer, eat less, and do less.

The drop gives their bodies a chance for proper thermoregulation, something they’ve been doing on an evolutionary level for millions of years. And it does it very well too, so don’t change that at home.

People panic way too much and have this deluded reality of “well I’m cold so the reptile must be cold”. Or “he/she feels so cold when I touch him/her”.

In fact, the reality is that they are “cold blooded” unlike us humans who are warm blooded. So they would always feel cold.

Because of this, they need that external heat source to warm and energize themselves (sun, lightbulb, UVB).

This gives them the necessary charge to go about their day hunting and climbing. For this reason, they climb up and bask as soon as those sunlight rays and UVB tubes come on in the morning. Expose yourself fully to heat and UV energy. Charging, so to speak.

Source of heat for chameleons at night

If you need a night heat source, a CHE (ceramic bulb) is the best option. These provide no light and only heat. So it won’t disturb the chameleons’ sleep like a night light would.

And here the same safety precautions, protective cage and thermostat.

And maintain a comfortable temperature of 16°C to 18°C ​​(60°F to 64°F) for the 12 hours that you turn off the lights.

Chameleon lighting and UVB

Getting the right UVB is vital, it is a lifeline for captive reptiles. Without this, or by using sub-par, insufficient UVB, like spiral UVB, your chameleon will be more likely to have health issues down the line.

So get that UVB lighting in order from day zero before you have that chameleon.

In addition to mesh setups: For both Veiled and Panther chameleons I use Arcadia T5 12% UVB with a reflector. One is the 12% linear tube, the other is the Arcadia Flood. This essentially filters the UVB down to the required, more natural UV index, which they are also more accustomed to. Inside a facility: To achieve this, use the UVB tube “inside” a facility. I would recommend using the Arcadia T5 6% with reflector. I use a pipe size that runs the width of the case, or at least three quarters of the width. And all UVB must be mounted directly overhead. I’ve seen many mount their UVB incorrectly halfway down a build-up wall, or even walk down.

The natural UV needs of a chameleon

The “average” UV index of Yemen, where our veiled chameleons come from, is between 3 and 7.

With peaks of 10+ depending on the time of year and the area of ​​Yemen recorded.

These levels are measured outdoors and not under the shelter of a tree canopy.

The same applies to Madagascar, where our panther chameleons live. Again, this can even reach up to 10+ depending on location and time of year.

Using UVB lamps for chameleons

The sunspot temperature for my veiled (Yemen) and panther chameleon is around 2.5 and 3.

If you’re on mesh, use the 12% T5 with reflector on the outside, about 13 inches from the chams back.

If you are in a setup use the T5 6% with reflector, again about 13 inches.

Here’s how I set up the UV for my chameleons to get the best sunspot temperature:

With my solar meter 6.5 in hand (this measures the UV index) I set up my enclosures first, starting with an index at the sunny spot of around 5.

I found after a few days that they bask much deeper in the setup. And according to the solar meter at indices around 2.5 to 3 in the middle of the setup.

So I adjusted this to match the maximum it would get at Sun Square.

So now it’s between 2.5 and 3 for both the veiled and the panther chameleon.

And that’s actually pretty much the recommended distance according to the Arcadia T5 12% Tube packaging instructions. 13 inches from tube, to chameleons back at sunny spot.

And that seems to be the “sweet spot” as they say.

I see regular intense tanning sessions by the chameleons taking maximum heat and UV exposure in the main tanning zone.

Even more, first thing in the morning and after eating. Followed by a more selective routine with less exposed areas where they bask throughout the day in the facility (deeper in the enclosure or under foliage. Or climbing around of course).

So I stuck to that method and that distance, for both species.

And with blood tests and stool tests showing everything is fine and readings are great, these are the indexes I’ve been aiming for ever since.

Well, I’m fully aware that not everyone has a solar meter to test these things, so my best advice is:

Follow the pipe manufacturer’s instructions. For example, Arcadia recommends that a T5 UVB tube be placed about 13 inches from the tube to the reptile’s back. This is a really good guide as explained above.

And if you have your setup with many exposure levels as mentioned before, the chameleon can choose its own exposure. This is the best way of doing things.

So, to reiterate here with the UVB – if you’re on mesh, use the 12% T5 with reflector on the outside, about 13 inches from the chams back.

If you are in a setup use the T5 6% with reflector, again about 13 inches.

Chameleons like natural vegetation.

Live plants for a chameleon varium

I’ve used and tried so many over the years and I’ve come to rely on a handful that just seem to thrive in the chameleon setup conditions.

These are:

Ficus benjamina (sick fig)

Pothos (Devil’s Ivy)

umbrella plant

dracaena

yucca

For me, using real plants and branches in a setup is simply unbeatable, and for my chameleons it definitely is.

It is also worth using a plant growth lamp. For me personally, having tried many over-the-ears, I’ve seen actual results with the Arcadia Jungle Dawn.

It is also worth using a plant growth lamp. For me personally, having tried many over-the-ears, I’ve seen actual results with the Arcadia Jungle Dawn.

This is an LED lighting system designed entirely to replicate sunlight. They run at 6.5-7 Kelvin, which is the ideal point for plant and flower growth.

I have the 13w version in many of my setups that sit on top of the mesh is fine for this one too.

Of course you can use artificial foliage in the setup or a mix of both. But stick to reptilian brands.

I’ve seen many groomers use store bought ones. These are not tested within our setup conditions like those with the Reptile brand.

Therefore, it is safer to use something that you know will not pose a fire or choking hazard.

Branches for a chameleon vivarium

I tend to stick to oak, birch, and willow branches. And always what I find on the ground. Please do not take branches from trees.

You CAN only use pine if it’s an old branch as the sap in those branches can be a problem, but older branches are all dried up. But it’s just safer to stay away from these.

There is no need to bake the branches unless you intend to eat them…

Same goes for bleach, freeze, laser, Jedi mind tricks. None of this nonsense is necessary.

There is nothing in this tree trunk that could harm our chameleons. No mites or bugs will pop out and eat them. You just have to look into my facebook chameleon group (Chameleon Network) to see the science and proof of this.

Where to find them – I collect my branches while walking the dog.

As long as you collect away from roads (you don’t want dirty branches) and in pesticide-free areas, you’re good to go.

For fake branches I would recommend using the fake bendy vines you can get from the likes of the Northampton Reptile Centre.

These add the extra element of filling out the case. More climbing opportunities for the Cham too. And they look great.

How often should I clean my chameleon varium?

This all depends on what substrate you have decided to use for your chameleon. For me I use both bioactive substrate (a living ecosystem) and bare soil.

In short, bioactive substrates are the use of soil, live bugs such as isopods. mealworms. Springtails to keep the ground alive. The live bugs also clean your vivarium by eating the waste and they support plant and facility health.

Therefore, cleaning up debris is not necessary in these setups once established.

If you don’t go for the bioactive method, I suggest a bare bottom.

You can learn more about bioactive substrates in the setup files on the Chameleon Network.

According to bioactive, a bare floor is the most hygienic way to clean your chameleon vivarium.

And it’s just a matter of cleaning up the litter daily or when seen, with the F10SC disinfectant or the handy ProRep Protect wipes.

The Pro-Rep wipes are also safe to use on plant foliage, I’ve used them for years to clean when needed. Never had any problems.

Finally

You should think about the following when setting up your chameleon varium:

Think big with the setups; keep your chameleon hydrated; and try to keep it “real” in the setups. Give the chameleon a chance to bask and be exposed to heat and UVB where it wants.

Also offer multiple levels to climb and shelter in the foliage, this provides mental and physical enrichment.

Is your chameleon insured? Get a £1,000 quote for Vet Expenses, Death and Theft Cover. Vet only coverage also available | We have been insuring exotic pets since 1996 | Check out our customer reviews on Feefo.

Pete Hawkins is the admin of a number of Facebook reptilian groups such as the Chameleon Network, the Snake Network, and the Bearded Dragon Network

Pete also writes for The Reptile Apartment and Practical Reptile Keeping.

Pete Hawkins may receive a commission from pet insurance sales if you click on a link in this article.

Cedar has long been used in cabinets because of its inherent resistance to insects and rot. Unfortunately, cedar is one of the most dangerous woods for reptiles and should not be used in their care at all. Several species are known to be particularly dangerous, including white cedar (Thuja occidentalis), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), and western red cedar (Thuja plicata); unfortunately, commercial products rarely make it clear which species was used. Cedar is often used as a substrate for small mammals and birds, although it is also contraindicated for many of these species. Reptiles exposed to cedar may show respiratory symptoms or develop skin lesions.

Is your chameleon insured? Get a £1,000 quote for Vet Expenses, Death and Theft Cover. Vet only coverage also available | We have been insuring exotic pets since 1996 | Check out our customer reviews on Feefo.

Click on the link to jump to the topic: What size pelvis does a chameleon need? | Chameleon Heater | What types of bulbs are needed for chameleons? | Sunspot temperature for a chameleon | What do chameleons drink from? | Humidity levels for chameleons | Do chameleons need heat lamps at night? | Chameleon lighting and UVB | Using UVB Lamps for Chameleons | Live plants for a chameleon varium | branches for a chameleon varium | How often should I clean the vivarium?

So the following Chameleon setup advice is based on my experience. And honestly, it works for me.

What size tank does a chameleon need?

Ideally, the XL Zoo-Med Reptibreeze cage or “at least” the medium-sized Arboreal Vivexotic Viva+ Medium wooden vivarium is ideal for one adult (do not house together).

Many like to start their young chameleons in smaller setups. That’s fine – something like Vivexotic Arboreal small or small/Med Reptibreeze is ideal.

But I’ve found that a young chameleon works perfectly right from the start in a large setup if you have lots of cover, foliage, UV and heat options.

You should have plenty of options for foiling, UV exposure, and sunbathing for your chameleon

Chameleon heater

Create your chameleon, a sun zone. Not just a branch under the lightbulb, but multiple horizontal and vertical options in this area.

This gives your chameleon a much wider range of temperatures in which to bask. Similar to wild conditions where they would use different branching levels.

Also, use foliage so your chameleon can seek out less heat and UVB exposure.

For me I see the best naturalistic activity when using a nice bright white bulb, although I am currently using one of the new Arcadia Deep Heat Projector bulbs on my female Veiled Chameleon.

This does not provide light, but infrared A and B wavelengths. And so far, after a month or so, it’s going amazingly well.

And I prefer my heat bulb arrangement outside of the build. So on top of the web – this is a much safer option.

Of course, if you can’t do this, make sure you use a lamp cage for protection within the setup.

It is also important to ensure that the chameleon cannot get close to or climb on this protective cage.

Check out the Corn Snake Setup Advice also written by Pete Hawkins.

What types of bulbs are needed for chameleons?

The size (wattage) of the bulb required here depends on a few factors.

Your own geographic location temperature

room temperature

Installation location (near the window, etc.)

setup size

All of this plays a big role in the bulb and wattage required for your setup.

I would suggest getting a few different wattages. See what best achieves the temperature you need, as it will ultimately be controlled by the thermostat anyway.

Also, always run your heat source through a thermostat. A dimmer thermostat is required for a light-emitting heat source.

I personally use the Microclimate Evos but there are many options. As long as it’s a dimmer.

Veil and panther chameleons bask at different temperatures

Sunspot temperature for a chameleon

Here are the vivarium temperatures I would aim for in your chameleon vivarium (using a digital thermometer when basking). Higher temperatures can cause problems:

Veiled Adult (age 1+) – 31c-35c (87f-95f)

Veiled Young (less than 1 year old) – slightly cooler. Around 29c/30c (84f-86f)

Panther Adult (1 year+) – 29c-30c (84f-86f)

Panther Young (under 1 year) 27c-28c (80f-82f)

And again, please make sure your chameleon, whatever subspecies, doesn’t get near or climb on the heat or UVB.

This leads to problems such as thermal burns, PKC (photo-kerato-conjunctivitis) and severe dehydration.

Do you own a bearded dragon? Check out what to feed your beard…

What do chameleons drink from?

Chameleons drink by licking the water droplets off the leaves. You can use a plant dropper or mist sprayer to provide the water droplets.

Plant Dripper: I love the Exo-Terra Plant Dripper.

I placed this in a tub with part of the lid cut out and holes drilled in the lid so I can wrap it around the stem.

This protects the pump and water and allows water to drip back, creating a cleaner circuit. Away from bugs, feces and dirt.

I have also used the Zoo-Med Big Dripper in addition to my setups in the past.

This is a simple tub or water dripping down the small faucet at your set rate. It then drips onto leaves within the setup.

Misting System, Manual Spraying: This is a must have for chameleon keepers. Of course, if you’re home most of the day, you can do it manually.

But there will be times when you will be absent and an automatic fogging system will be your salvation.

I have used most brands over the years and for me the Mist-King and Exo-Terra Monsoon systems are the best.

It’s all about setting up the spray nozzles in the setup, setting the timer and off you go.

Misting your Chameleon setup is a huge liquid option. Covering all of these plants well with water will allow your Cham to drink the leaves. So it’s a good thing.

Try not to spray your chameleon directly. Many get stressed about it, and stress is not good for any species.

It’s also worth noting….use warm water. This is much more comfortable for the chameleon when it does get wet. And it evaporates better, leading to moisture spikes in the setup. Again, this is a good thing.

I also use aquarium heaters in my Mist King reservoir. Set it to a toasty 30C and when it comes out of the jets it’s a nice warm temp of the mid 20C and they love that.

Unfortunately, hydration is the big chameleon killer and is still a major concern among chameleon keepers. This is also something I covered back in 2016 in an article in Practical Reptile Keeping magazine.

The best way to combat such problems is to provide as many methods of hydration as possible.

Beautiful chameleon colors

humidity for chameleons

I aim for around 40%-60% with my panther chameleon and keep the humidity high by misting it. I then let the setup dry completely before spraying the setup again.

What you want are humidity spikes. Staying low is almost as bad as staying high all the time. Therefore, please allow the setup to dry before spraying again if necessary.

The humidity level is exactly the same for a cloaked (Yemen) chameleon in terms of spines and drying out of the build-up.

Although I don’t spray it that much.

They naturally hail from a much drier geographical location. So a few sprays a day works for most.

Everything should be great for a veiled chameleon as long as the hydration options are there, even if it drops below 40% due to the slightly lower spray.

Humidity is a big part of a chameleon’s wellbeing and I use digital hydrometers in my setups to read this as well as the readings on my Microclimate Evo Pro thermostats.

Do chameleons need heat lamps at night?

In all my years of keeping reptiles I have not used night heating on many of my lizard species (e.g. dragons, chameleons, skinks, monitor lizards). And that’s the case with chameleons.

You could easily get down to 10°C (50°F) in this setup before you even think about the need for additional heat.

And honestly, whose house gets that cold before they turn on their own central heating and warm up the house and reptile setups with it? Nobody would go that deep.

The drop in temperature is actually very beneficial for them. Think about it. If you run a ceramic lamp at night that maintains these temperatures, there is little reason for them to sunbathe and recharge in the morning.

This “might” cause a reptile to sleep longer, eat less, and do less.

The drop gives their bodies a chance for proper thermoregulation, something they’ve been doing on an evolutionary level for millions of years. And it does it very well too, so don’t change that at home.

People panic way too much and have this deluded reality of “well I’m cold so the reptile must be cold”. Or “he/she feels so cold when I touch him/her”.

In fact, the reality is that they are “cold blooded” unlike us humans who are warm blooded. So they would always feel cold.

Because of this, they need that external heat source to warm and energize themselves (sun, lightbulb, UVB).

This gives them the necessary charge to go about their day hunting and climbing. For this reason, they climb up and bask as soon as those sunlight rays and UVB tubes come on in the morning. Expose yourself fully to heat and UV energy. Charging, so to speak.

Source of heat for chameleons at night

If you need a night heat source, a CHE (ceramic bulb) is the best option. These provide no light and only heat. So it won’t disturb the chameleons’ sleep like a night light would.

And here the same safety precautions, protective cage and thermostat.

And maintain a comfortable temperature of 16°C to 18°C ​​(60°F to 64°F) for the 12 hours that you turn off the lights.

Chameleon lighting and UVB

Getting the right UVB is vital, it is a lifeline for captive reptiles. Without this, or by using sub-par, insufficient UVB, like spiral UVB, your chameleon will be more likely to have health issues down the line.

So get that UVB lighting in order from day zero before you have that chameleon.

In addition to mesh setups: For both Veiled and Panther chameleons I use Arcadia T5 12% UVB with a reflector. One is the 12% linear tube, the other is the Arcadia Flood. This essentially filters the UVB down to the required, more natural UV index, which they are also more accustomed to. Inside a facility: To achieve this, use the UVB tube “inside” a facility. I would recommend using the Arcadia T5 6% with reflector. I use a pipe size that runs the width of the case, or at least three quarters of the width. And all UVB must be mounted directly overhead. I’ve seen many mount their UVB incorrectly halfway down a build-up wall, or even walk down.

The natural UV needs of a chameleon

The “average” UV index of Yemen, where our veiled chameleons come from, is between 3 and 7.

With peaks of 10+ depending on the time of year and the area of ​​Yemen recorded.

These levels are measured outdoors and not under the shelter of a tree canopy.

The same applies to Madagascar, where our panther chameleons live. Again, this can even reach up to 10+ depending on location and time of year.

Using UVB lamps for chameleons

The sunspot temperature for my veiled (Yemen) and panther chameleon is around 2.5 and 3.

If you’re on mesh, use the 12% T5 with reflector on the outside, about 13 inches from the chams back.

If you are in a setup use the T5 6% with reflector, again about 13 inches.

Here’s how I set up the UV for my chameleons to get the best sunspot temperature:

With my solar meter 6.5 in hand (this measures the UV index) I set up my enclosures first, starting with an index at the sunny spot of around 5.

I found after a few days that they bask much deeper in the setup. And according to the solar meter at indices around 2.5 to 3 in the middle of the setup.

So I adjusted this to match the maximum it would get at Sun Square.

So now it’s between 2.5 and 3 for both the veiled and the panther chameleon.

And that’s actually pretty much the recommended distance according to the Arcadia T5 12% Tube packaging instructions. 13 inches from tube, to chameleons back at sunny spot.

And that seems to be the “sweet spot” as they say.

I see regular intense tanning sessions by the chameleons taking maximum heat and UV exposure in the main tanning zone.

Even more, first thing in the morning and after eating. Followed by a more selective routine with less exposed areas where they bask throughout the day in the facility (deeper in the enclosure or under foliage. Or climbing around of course).

So I stuck to that method and that distance, for both species.

And with blood tests and stool tests showing everything is fine and readings are great, these are the indexes I’ve been aiming for ever since.

Well, I’m fully aware that not everyone has a solar meter to test these things, so my best advice is:

Follow the pipe manufacturer’s instructions. For example, Arcadia recommends that a T5 UVB tube be placed about 13 inches from the tube to the reptile’s back. This is a really good guide as explained above.

And if you have your setup with many exposure levels as mentioned before, the chameleon can choose its own exposure. This is the best way of doing things.

So, to reiterate here with the UVB – if you’re on mesh, use the 12% T5 with reflector on the outside, about 13 inches from the chams back.

If you are in a setup use the T5 6% with reflector, again about 13 inches.

Chameleons like natural vegetation.

Live plants for a chameleon varium

I’ve used and tried so many over the years and I’ve come to rely on a handful that just seem to thrive in the chameleon setup conditions.

These are:

Ficus benjamina (sick fig)

Pothos (Devil’s Ivy)

umbrella plant

dracaena

yucca

For me, using real plants and branches in a setup is simply unbeatable, and for my chameleons it definitely is.

It is also worth using a plant growth lamp. For me personally, having tried many over-the-ears, I’ve seen actual results with the Arcadia Jungle Dawn.

It is also worth using a plant growth lamp. For me personally, having tried many over-the-ears, I’ve seen actual results with the Arcadia Jungle Dawn.

This is an LED lighting system designed entirely to replicate sunlight. They run at 6.5-7 Kelvin, which is the ideal point for plant and flower growth.

I have the 13w version in many of my setups that sit on top of the mesh is fine for this one too.

Of course you can use artificial foliage in the setup or a mix of both. But stick to reptilian brands.

I’ve seen many groomers use store bought ones. These are not tested within our setup conditions like those with the Reptile brand.

Therefore, it is safer to use something that you know will not pose a fire or choking hazard.

Branches for a chameleon vivarium

I tend to stick to oak, birch, and willow branches. And always what I find on the ground. Please do not take branches from trees.

You CAN only use pine if it’s an old branch as the sap in those branches can be a problem, but older branches are all dried up. But it’s just safer to stay away from these.

There is no need to bake the branches unless you intend to eat them…

Same goes for bleach, freeze, laser, Jedi mind tricks. None of this nonsense is necessary.

There is nothing in this tree trunk that could harm our chameleons. No mites or bugs will pop out and eat them. You just have to look into my facebook chameleon group (Chameleon Network) to see the science and proof of this.

Where to find them – I collect my branches while walking the dog.

As long as you collect away from roads (you don’t want dirty branches) and in pesticide-free areas, you’re good to go.

For fake branches I would recommend using the fake bendy vines you can get from the likes of the Northampton Reptile Centre.

These add the extra element of filling out the case. More climbing opportunities for the Cham too. And they look great.

How often should I clean my chameleon varium?

This all depends on what substrate you have decided to use for your chameleon. For me I use both bioactive substrate (a living ecosystem) and bare soil.

In short, bioactive substrates are the use of soil, live bugs such as isopods. mealworms. Springtails to keep the ground alive. The live bugs also clean your vivarium by eating the waste and they support plant and facility health.

Therefore, cleaning up debris is not necessary in these setups once established.

If you don’t go for the bioactive method, I suggest a bare bottom.

You can learn more about bioactive substrates in the setup files on the Chameleon Network.

According to bioactive, a bare floor is the most hygienic way to clean your chameleon vivarium.

And it’s just a matter of cleaning up the litter daily or when seen, with the F10SC disinfectant or the handy ProRep Protect wipes.

The Pro-Rep wipes are also safe to use on plant foliage, I’ve used them for years to clean when needed. Never had any problems.

Finally

You should think about the following when setting up your chameleon varium:

Think big with the setups; keep your chameleon hydrated; and try to keep it “real” in the setups. Give the chameleon a chance to bask and be exposed to heat and UVB where it wants.

Also offer multiple levels to climb and shelter in the foliage, this provides mental and physical enrichment.

Is your chameleon insured? Get a £1,000 quote for Vet Expenses, Death and Theft Cover. Vet only coverage also available | We have been insuring exotic pets since 1996 | Check out our customer reviews on Feefo.

Pete Hawkins is the admin of a number of Facebook reptilian groups such as the Chameleon Network, the Snake Network, and the Bearded Dragon Network

Pete also writes for The Reptile Apartment and Practical Reptile Keeping.

Pete Hawkins may receive a commission from pet insurance sales if you click on a link in this article.