Briggs And Stratton Fuel Tank Sponge? The 100 New Answer

Most modern lawn mowers offer reliable performance and require very little maintenance. But occasionally problems arise that leave homeowners scratching their heads. I can think of one such problem that left me with a big ol’ question the first time I tried it: Why is my lawn mower spitting out grass?

Now you might say “Hey! If a lawnmower doesn’t have a grass catcher, it puts the cut grass back onto the lawn. Duh!” But I’m not talking about that. I’m talking about grass spewing out from under the mower at odd angles and in various states (loose, clumped, etc.) whether or not a grass catcher is attached.

It took me a while to get to the bottom of this, but I was able to uncover numerous reasons why a lawn mower spits out grass. Below I have compiled a list of these reasons to help you if you ever encounter this problem.

8 possible reasons why your lawn mower is spitting out grass

If your lawnmower is spitting out grass for no apparent reason, this list can help you track down the culprit.

1: The grass is too wet – I’ll start with a pretty obvious one. Mowing a wet lawn is rarely a good idea, especially when you want as little cleaning up as possible at the end of the process. Will mowing wet grass ruin your lawn mower? No, but wet grass clogs things up under the mower deck, impairs the mower blades’ ability to cut effectively, and spits out tufts of grass that you have to go back and either collect or shred and disperse. These clumps can spit out the back of the mower, or if things get really gnarly underneath, they can squirt out the sides. Cutting dry grass is a much better idea!

2: The grass is too tall – Waiting until the grass is too tall to cut is another way of producing grass that will spit out from under your mower. Like wet grass clippings, cutting or mulching tall grass can clog things under the deck and cause grass to shoot out at odd angles. Usually the amount of weed is pretty modest and it doesn’t happen every time. But sometimes, if you wait until the grass is too tall to cut, you can see grass spitting out the sides and front. Cutting long grass can also cause the clumps mentioned above.

3: The Wrong Type of Blade – Reciprocating mower blades are designed to create suction that pulls (lifts) the grass up towards the blade for a nice, clean cut. Lift sheets are available in a variety of styles that produce different amounts of lift. But their effectiveness depends on having an engine up to the task. If you have a blade that is designed for high lift, but your mower’s engine cannot rotate the blade fast enough to generate that lift, it can create a situation where the grass is cut unevenly and clippings stick to the edges sides of the mower.

4: A clogged chute – If the grass on your lawn is long or wet, it can cause the chute to become clogged. Once this happens, the grass you cut will have nowhere to go and spit out in different directions. But that doesn’t just happen when mowing tall or wet grass. Also, if the chute hasn’t been cleaned for a long time, ordinary dry grass clippings can build up inside, like lint in a dryer vent, and cause the same spitting problem.

5: A dirty mower deck – Many homeowners will go an entire year without ever turning their mower over to see what’s going on under the mower deck. When they finally do, they’re often greeted by a thick carpet of grass clippings stuck to the underside, leaving just enough room for the blade to rotate. For the mower to function properly, the underside should be clean and smooth so clippings have an unobstructed path to the chute. If the underside of the mower deck is clogged, some of this clippings won’t find the chute. Instead, they will spit in all directions.

6: An ill-fitting grass catcher – If the grass catcher does not fit properly, clippings will not enter the grass catcher properly. Some will make it into the collector, but others will trail behind the mower, and still others will bounce under the mower and then squirt out the sides and even the front. If the problem is just that the catcher wasn’t attached properly, that’s pretty easy to fix. But if the catcher is broken or damaged, it must be replaced.

7: Under-Inflated Tires – This is a problem sometimes encountered with ride-on mowers. A tire is under-inflated or has a tiny puncture that causes air to slowly leak out. The mower will then become unbalanced with one side higher than the other and clippings will begin to fly out from under the raised side. The driver then asks, “Why is my lawn mower spitting out grass?” The difference in tire pressure doesn’t have to be extreme. Just a few psi can cause the mower to run unevenly and squirt out grass.

8: A Thatched Grass Catcher – We addressed the issue of an ill-fitting or incorrectly attached grass catcher. But the collector can also cause grass to squirt out from under your mower for other reasons. If the grass bag is covered with straw, for example, this can restrict airflow. This can prevent the grass clippings from being carried into the bag. When this happens, it may spray out the sides of your mower.

The last word

If your lawnmower is spitting out grass, there must be a logical reason for it. Use the list above to resolve the situation and restore proper functionality to your mower.

If you’re certain that the primer bulb is the problem, replacing it is fairly easy. For safety reasons, wait for your lawn mower to cool down before working on it and remove the spark plug. Look for a retaining ring around the primer piston; If you find one, pull it off right away. Not all models use a retaining ring. So if you don’t see one, use a flat head screwdriver to press the retaining tabs to loosen or pry the bulb out. If a spring and ball fall out of the primer cavity, swap them out and then put in the new primer ball. Make sure the tabs line up with the slots before pushing down. If applicable, slide the retaining ring over the primer ball and push until it snaps into place.

Facts about fuel cell safety

What is a Fuel Safe Safety Fuel Cell?

Safety fuel cells were developed in the 1960’s for racing cars which, until their advent, had no protection in the event of a fueled fire accident. Since the first use of fuel cells, the driver’s chances of surviving an accident have increased significantly. A safety fuel cell consists of four main components that combine to provide the vital protection required in today’s competitive, high-speed racing environment.

The cell begins with a bladder (pocket tank) which is the heart of the system. The bladder is the flexible, extremely strong fuel container that prevents fuel from spilling in the event of an accident. The bladder is made of high-strength elastomeric components and is designed to withstand the chemical attack of the fuel. It is the first line of defense in the event of an accident.

Foam baffling inside the bladder has multiple functions. While displacing a very small amount of fuel, the foam prevents fuel sloshing. By preventing sloshing, the foam keeps the fuel vented which improves fuel delivery and also ensures consistent fuel delivery to the pickup. A second benefit offered by the foam is its ability to prevent flashback explosions. And finally, the foam keeps the bladder in shape, important for a flexible bladder.

The filling plate provides the opening for filling the cell. It usually contains the vent, exhaust, and return fittings. This key component provides a leak-proof rollover protection and is designed to integrate with the bladder for maximum strength and security.

The last component is the container (canister). This part protects the bladder and provides a way to mount the fuel cell in the car. Containers have been made from aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, fiberglass, or even a cavity in the body structure. The reservoirs are designed to fit snugly against the bladder for maximum capacity.

While these are the main components of a fuel cell, there are many additional parts that can be added to customize a system to your specific needs. Examples of these attachments are collectors, drip pans, reserve tanks, expansion tanks, baffles, pumps, dry separators, quick-fill valves, level sensors, filters, etc.

Why Use a Fuel Safe Safety Fuel Cell?

Using a safety fuel cell in a racing vehicle is no less important than using a helmet or wearing a seat belt. The fuel cell is an essential part to make you fast and safe during competition. A Fuel Safe fuel cell offers its user a much higher level of performance by preventing the fuel from moving around in the tank and by ensuring that every last drop of fuel is used. In the event of a short circuit or accident, the fuel cell is designed to retain all of the fuel, even if it is deformed, rolled over, or hit directly. At Fuel Safe Systems, we build in the USA the most competitive, safest and most durable safety fuel cells on the market today. Using a highly sophisticated proprietary construction process and the most technologically advanced materials and workmanship, Fuel Safe continues to set the standard in the racing industry for speed and safety. From NASCAR to drag racing, sprint cars to trophy truck fuel cells, boats to airplanes and everything in between, if it’s racing we can…or rather do…build its fuel cell. That’s why Fuel Safe continues to be #1 in racing.

Who Uses Fuel Safe Products?

Aside from racing, there are a variety of other applications for Fuel Safe Systems’ technologies and proprietary processes. We currently manufacture products for the aerospace, military, firefighting and a variety of commercial and industrial companies. Our ISO 9001 certification is an industry first, giving you peace of mind that your Fuel Safe fuel cell has been built to the most stringent standards.

We are always working at the cutting edge of material design to improve our skills and your safety. Our brand new, state-of-the-art 100,000 square foot facility includes a variety of capabilities including fabrication, welding, machining, assembly, rotational molding, prototyping, lamination, research and development, modeling, engineering, design and production. We are ready to take on any challenge or project and always strive to exceed your expectations. At Fuel Safe Systems, no customer or job is too big or too small.

Fuel Safe Fuel Cell Guidelines?

Here at Fuel Safe Systems we work tirelessly to provide the highest level of quality, performance and durability. Everything we manufacture is engineered to withstand the extreme demands that our customers place on our products.

Safety fuel cells are out of sight and are therefore often forgotten. Fuel cells have a limited lifespan. The environment can greatly affect the longevity of the cell. The typical lifespan of a fuel cell is between 8 and 10 years, although all sanctioning bodies limit use to 5 years from the date of manufacture. By following a few simple guidelines and regularly checking your fuel cell, you can ensure your vehicle’s performance and safety are maintained.

Avoid fuel additives

Do not store fuel in cell for long periods of time

Do not expose the cell to harsh chemicals

Do not use solvents on the cell

Store your blister in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight

Inspect the inside and outside of your cell once a year

Torque the filler plate bolts to 85-90 in.-lbs for synthetic cork gaskets and 55 in.-lbs for Viton gaskets

You owe it to yourself, your crew, your family and your sponsors to stay fast and safe on the track.

Washington State Excise Tax for Marketplace Purchases:

Aircraft Rubber Manufacturing, Inc. dba Fuel Safe Systems is not required and collects no sales or use taxes in Washington. Under Washington law, purchases are not tax-exempt just because a seller is not required to collect Washington tax. Washington law requires Washington buyers to verify untaxed purchases and, if taxes are owed, to file a Washington tax return and pay all taxes due. Visit the Washington State Department of Revenue website for more information.

Can pump gas run in my fuel cell?

Pump gas is safe to run in our most popular lines of racing fuel cells.

What is the difference between Race Safe and Enduro?

The main difference between Race Safe and Enduro is that Race Safe does not carry FIA FT3 certification while Enduro is FIA FT3 certified. The next difference is that the Race Safe bladder is black and the Enduro bladder is red. Those reasons aside, the Race Safe and Enduro lines are identical materials with the same tough, durable, and cost-effective valving.

How do I know if my fuel cell is certified?

To determine if your fuel cell is certified, you need to look at the fuel cell bladder (this may involve removing the can lid or pulling the bladder for the cavity where the fuel cell resides). On your fuel cell bladder, if certified, you will find a hologram sticker that reads “Not valid after five years from the original date of manufacture” or a total of seven years if the fuel cell was previously re-certified for an additional two years.

Example: If a cell was purchased in June 2018, it would have a “Not Valid After” date of June 2023. If the fuel cell was previously recertified, the “Not Valid After” date would be extended by two years to 2025. Seven- year mark, the fuel cell is no longer certified or re-certifiable.

How long is foam good for? How do I know if my Safety Baffling Foam needs to be replaced?

The life of the safety foam depends on the type of fuel used. In general, fuel cell foam will last about five years if serviced. To determine if your foam needs replacing, perform a pinch-pull test. Take a portion of the foam and pinch/pull it between your index finger and thumb. If the foam is brittle and breaks off in large chunks, your foam should be replaced. If your foam stays intact and only sheds small particles, this is normal and should not need replacing. Check your foam at least once a year for the first three years, then twice a year for the next two years, and more frequently for the next 5 years.

Why is the type of fuel used important?

It is important that your Fuel Safe sales engineer knows what type of fuel you are using to ensure you select the correct bladder type. Fuel Safes bladder materials are compatible with various fuels, for example you can use alcohol blends in the Pro Cell bladder but not in the Sportsman. Knowing the type of fuel you plan to use will avoid choosing the wrong bladder.

What steps do I take to check if my fuel bladder is leaking?

First, do a visual inspection to see if fuel is dripping from the bottom of the can (through the drain holes). Next, inspect and verify that all plates/mounting screws are tight and properly torqued to 85-90 inch-lbs. If everything is fine, you then need to remove the can lid or remove the fuel cell bladder from the fuel cell canister and pressure test the fuel bladder – like a tire. Use 1/2 psi of air to pressurize the fuel bladder (seal all ports except the port used to use air to pressurize) and slowly pour soapy water over the bladder to release bladders ( leaks) to check. In some cases, you remove the can lid and visually see that the bladder has aged and cracked and/or is deteriorating and you do not need to pressure test.

If I buy a cell from another rider and it starts leaking, is it still under warranty?

Regardless of the original purchaser, Fuel Safe cells are guaranteed for five years from the date of manufacture. Customer is responsible for inbound shipping as we need to have the fuel cell on hand to determine if the leak is a manufacturing defect.

How much does it cost to recertify a cell? What is the process?

General purpose fuel cell recertification is $150.00, all special applications and custom cells are $250.00. The customer must ship the fuel cell bladder (shipping the complete fuel cell is acceptable) once received by a Fuel Safe sales representative. will issue an RMA number with notice that the fuel cell is being received for re-certification. Next, a sales representative. issues a recertification assessment to the Production Manager of Fuel Safe. After the bubble has been evaluated and deemed recertifiable, the receiving sales rep. will create a sales order for recertification and the fuel cell will then go through production to apply the appropriate recertification label to the bladder. The process usually takes between three and seven working days, depending on how busy the production hall is.

What is a custom cell baseball number?

Custom cells vary in price. A rough estimate can range from $2,000 to $3,000. The customer must provide us with an estimated capacity, dimensions and a rough idea of ​​the components required in order to make an approximate offer. Key factors in the cost of a custom fuel cell are capacity, geometry, number of ports and internals such as fuel pumps, collectors, surge tanks, baffles, crossovers etc. If you would like us to quote your design please contact [email protected]

What is the lead time for a custom cell?

Custom cells have a three week lead time once a customer approved drawing has been approved by Fuel Safe’s production engineers.

What is a collector/expansion tank?

A collector/surge tank is an optional component you can add to your fuel cell that acts as a surge tank in your cell’s bladder. Most of our collectors are plastic boxes with pickup pumps inside. These boxes are then fitted with either check balls or trapdoors to collect fuel for your pickup pump to suck. Trap doors or return balls allow the collector to be charged with fuel while driving or cornering; Gather a certain amount (depending on the size of the collector) to ensure there is always enough fuel for your pickup. This prevents fuel starvation.

How does the HydraMat work? What is the difference between the rectangular square pattern and the cross? Which one is better?

The HydraMat works like a sponge, continuously soaking up fuel so your intake is constantly fueled. As long as there is some fuel in your tank that can interact with the HydraMat to avoid running out of fuel. Even if only part of the mat is submerged, the mat will still soak up fuel to power your system’s intake.

The difference between the rectangular and cross shaped mats is that the rectangular mats have a larger surface area and fit snugly within a standard cell footprint. Cross patterns have less surface area but can fit into cells that are more angular or unique in shape.

Why are cells made to order and not in stock?

Fuel Safe does not stock fuel cells because once a fuel cell is manufactured and FIA certified it has a lifetime. Our fuel cells have a lifespan of five years and can be recertified for a further two years. By making the fuel cells to order, we enable customers to get the most out of their cell’s lifespan, rather than wasting a few months with a fuel cell that sits on the shelf before purchase.

Do I need a certified fuel cell?

Not all racing series require FIA ​​certification, so it all depends on which class you race in. To find out if FIA cells are required, refer to the rules for your racing class or contact the Series Director for more information.

How do I become a sponsored driver?

You can send a suggestion to our sales inbox and we will contact you if your project fits the Fuel Safe brand. Please include photos of your project, any social media channels (with insights into audience and reach metrics), your product’s race/event schedule, and a letter about you and your project. Please provide contact information. Sponsoring inquiries are accepted on an ongoing basis.

What length of transmitter unit do I need?

When choosing a probe length, you want the probe to be an inch less than the depth of the can. The goal is to have an inch of space between the bottom of your transmitter unit and the bottom of the fuel cell. Example: Your fuel cell is eight inches deep. Select a suitable connector with a length of 7 inches.

The Circle Track, Remote Fill, Flat Bottom Pro Street with D-Ring Cap, and Pro Sport fuel cells feature an AN-8 Fuel Pickup Fitting and AN-8 Tip Over Valve Vent Fitting.

The Drag Race Horizontal, Drag Race Vertical and Pro Street With Sump fuel cells are fitted with two AN-8 Fast Flow Outlet Fittings and one AN-6 Vent Fitting.

The aluminum fuel cells are fitted with two AN-8 Fast Flow Outlet Fittings, one AN-8 Return Fitting and one AN-8 Tip Over Valve Vent Fitting.

The Pro Drag Race, Specialized and certain Circle Track, Drag Race and Pro Sport fuel cells come with different trim levels.

Recently, many of our readers wrote to us asking about fuel cells, so in this issue of High Tech we’re going to be talking about these cool fuel canisters.

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Installing a fuel cell in your truck is a great way to safely increase and transport fuel storage and increase range. Most factory fuel tanks have a carrying capacity of 10 gallons (think compact pickups like the Ford Ranger) to 30 gallons for full-size rigs. Every truck comes factory fitted with a fuel tank that provides ample fuel supply for normal, everyday driving conditions.

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We know that nobody reading this magazine can be considered normal when it comes to driving their truck. Switching to a fuel cell therefore makes sense under the right conditions. One of the most frustrating things about a long trip in the dirt is having to carry around bulky cans of gas, or worse, running out of gas on the trail. A fuel cell will remedy this, but you need to make a wise decision when buying one and more importantly, you need to be aware of your local laws governing what you can and can’t do about your truck.

1. You can buy either a fuel bladder or a hard plastic fuel cell. The difference between them is simple. A fuel bladder is mounted in a powder-coated steel frame and is free to conform to the shape of the liquid; This helps the bladder absorb the energy created when the fuel moves while the vehicle is moving. Hard plastic fuel cells do not have this feature, so in an off-road environment where the road or path is obviously not smooth, a bubble-type fuel cell is more desirable.

2. You want a fuel cell with foam inside. The foam is designed to prevent the fuel from sloshing around while driving. Fuel sloshing can cause an explosion within the cell. The foam absorbs the energy of the explosion, and when the oxygen in the cell is burned, the flames are extinguished. To be effective, the fuel cell should be filled with foam to 80 percent of its total capacity.

3. If your truck is going to be in the garage for several months, you must drain the fuel cell and store it in a cool, dry environment.

4. Most fuel cells are compatible with multiple types of fuel. Bubble fuel cells equipped with foam should only be filled with regular gasoline. If alcohol runs, the foam must be removed.

5. Fuel additives can damage the fuel bladder if left in for a long time. Over time, the additives will separate from the fuel and eat away at the bladder, so it’s a good idea to drain the fuel cell if it’s going to be idle for months.

6. A fuel gauge transmitter unit can be installed in a fuel cell containing foam. Depending on the size of the fuel cell, a 12 or 24 inch transmitter unit can be trimmed to newer electronic measuring devices.

7. Remember to add a ground strap to the fuel cell when installing. Fuel that spills into the cell can build up static electricity and cause the cell to explode if it is not properly grounded to the vehicle chassis.

8.The fuel cell should be inspected and maintained once a year. The pickup screens need to be replaced and the check valves should be checked for proper operation. In addition, all seals and the cap should be replaced.

You know when your car is sick. The problem is that sometimes you don’t know what’s causing the problems. One of the easiest things to diagnose, even for non-mechanics, is a clogged fuel tank vent.

The symptoms of a clogged fuel tank vent are fairly recognizable. They are the same as a clogged fuel filter as both problems prevent fuel from getting to the engine. You’ll perform poorly, stall, have trouble staring, but likely have trouble filling your tank, or your car will either stall completely or not start at all.

Read on to understand how to deal with a clogged fuel tank vent and distinguish it from a clogged fuel filter.

understand the difference

The way to find out what is causing the problem is to check both. A fuel filter is not that difficult to find or look at, depending on the make and model of your car.

It sits between your engine and your fuel tank, and is either in the fuel tank near the fuel line that opens, or in the fuel line that is usually located on the floor of your car.

It could also be a blockage in the fuel line. That’s also pretty easy to figure out if you remove the fuel line and run a line through it to check for clogs.

Then there is the tank vent. Understanding how to check it requires a little knowledge of this part of your car.

Read: Why does the car not start in the cold?

What is a fuel tank vent?

The right combination of air and gas is important for the function of your vehicle. That means your fuel tank needs to be able to breathe. This is the purpose of the vent. The tank ventilation reduces pressure and vacuum.

Fuel is in a constant state of expansion and contraction as it heats up and cools down. Long ago manufacturers used vented gas caps to maintain the correct air, pressure and vacuum, but this proved ineffective as the fuel would leak.

A vent line is higher than the fuel filler neck or any other point on the tank. It must not have a bend or dip as this will trap condensate or fuel. A pinched line will build pressure or vacuum in your tank and eventually flush the vent.

This will result in tank damage as well as the smell of gas coming through the line. Another common problem is that wasps sometimes build nests in the fuel outlets. This can also clog your vent line.

Read: Why won’t a car start in the rain?

How do you check your fuel tank vent?

You have to be careful when checking your fuel tank vent so you don’t damage the tank or release gasoline into the air.

First find the vent line and put in a compressor. Blow in some air. An unblocked line will make a gurgling noise. A blocked line results in no sound.

Follow these steps to further diagnose the problem.

Disconnect the canister vent line from the gas tank and blow through. You’ll know if there’s a blockage because it’s a short line. You can use compressed air to check it. Many of them, which come with a long plastic hose to blow the air through, will fix a clog problem by blowing it out. You’ll quickly find out if it’s wasps that are causing the problems, so protect yourself and be prepared with wasp spray, gloves and other items. Try running a wire or plastic tubing through the vent to see if there are any blockages. You now need to drain the tank and bleed the internal air. Once dry, reconnect the vent hose and fuel line and try another puff of compressed air. There should be no blockage now. You can refill the tank when you solve the problem.

Read: How often should the fuel filter be changed?

frequently asked Questions

What causes too much pressure in a gas tank?

Any failure of any part of the EVAP system will result in high pressure in the fuel tank. That is, if something is clogged or not working. A common problem is a kink in the fuel vapor line or a clogged canister.

It could also be a failed purge control or bleed solenoid.

Where is the tank vent valve located?

Every car is different, but the fuel tank vent valve is usually located under the car. It is usually located near the charcoal canister and near the fuel tank.

Read: Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pressure Sensor

What Causes Fuel Tank Valve Failure?

The most common reason for a fuel purge valve failure is corrosion. Because it’s under the car, it’s exposed to a lot of things like dirt and temperatures that can cause corrosion. It either starts to stick openly or fails completely when corroded.

Should gas valves be open or closed?

The gas valves should be open. Air must enter the tank to replace the lost volume of fuel. Without open vents you have negative pressure. This results in fuel being sucked back into the tank instead of going to the engine.

How much does it cost to replace a fuel bleed valve?

It’s fairly cheap to replace a fuel bleeder valve as the part costs anywhere from $20 to $120 depending on the car. You still have to pay the mechanic for the replacement, and that can cost anywhere from $75 to $120.

Why is my gas tank stopping?

The typical way pumping gas should work is that the gas flows until the tank is full. Then the hole on the nozzle is covered with gasoline, indicating that the tank is full. The nozzle has vacuum and the auto shutoff switch has tripped.

If there is a clog, especially if the fuel vent is clogged, it will shut down sooner than when it is full. That means you have a blockage somewhere.

How much does a fuel line repair cost?

The average cost of replacing fuel hoses is typically between $120 and $500, but can cost more. This depends on the make and model of your vehicle and the prices charged by your mechanic.

What is a tank vent valve?

Vent valves are parts of the fuel tank that direct vapors that are produced. They are usually part of the charcoal canisters and help protect the canisters from the fuel.

Can you clean a tank vent?

Yes, you can clean a fuel tank vent. You must detach the canister and blow air into it, as well as wipe it down with a standard car cleaning product. Make sure the product you are using is approved for use near fuel areas.

Where does the tank vent go?

The EVAP tube or breather line extends from the gas tank and is usually connected to the intake manifold.

Are tank vent valves universal?

There are some universal fuel tank vent valves on the market, but most cars have a special part designed specifically for that vehicle. It is best to use a part designed for a specific vehicle, and then a universal part.

What happens if a fuel tank is not bled?

If a fuel tank is not bled, several terrible things can happen. This includes the storage tank being stressed by vacuum or pressure, causing the fuel to contract and expand inside the tank.

Read: Why the car doesn’t accelerate

One must always remember that it is extremely important to have good ventilation – IN EVERY tank that contains liquid. A tank vent may seem like a small part of the system, but it is absolutely necessary. If a pump is connected to the tank and this pump sucks from this tank, it is imperative to properly vent the tank.

Without proper ventilation, you can turn a train car into a pop can, as seen in the video above. Note that the above tank is a standard liquid railroad car and weighs approximately 68,000 lbs (34 tons) with a minimum wall thickness of 7/16 inch plated steel. Bottom Line – Make sure any tank you use has a tank vent installed.

Even for the smallest tank applications, it is highly advisable to fit a vent in every tank. We have seen many applications over the years where a lawn applicator with a small 50-100 gallon tank would not vent its tank properly and the sidewalls would collapse with a small transfer pump. In many installation situations, a vacuum can be created fairly quickly.

Another example is often found in the retail fertilizer industry. Many companies pull concentrated chemicals from 275 gallon caged containers and dispense them into smaller containers or blend them with other products. If these polyethylene tanks don’t have a tank vent and are therefore not properly vented, they too will collapse.

This doesn’t just happen in transfer tank scenarios. There are many applications where actual bulk storage tanks have collapsed due to the creation of a vacuum in the piping system. When a pump runs out of fluid, it begins to cavitate. We will have a future post on what pump cavitation is and how to avoid it. In storage scenarios for larger bulk tanks, we have seen tank vents becoming clogged with dirt, debris, bugs, etc. This is done simply by being exposed to the environment. Inspection of ALL tank vents should be included in each annual or biannual safety inspection record.

With OSHA regulations becoming more stringent, this task could be difficult to accomplish without repercussions. OSHA does not want employees on storage or transfer tanks for obvious safety reasons. Should they find a company employee on tanks, there could be potential fines. That being said, if nobody inspects tank vents, how can we stop tanks from collapsing more often?

Below are a few images of bulk tanks that have been sucked in or “collapsed” due to pump cavitation. The cavitation was so great that it essentially created a complete vacuum and collapsed the tank walls. A tank collapses because a complete vacuum has been drawn in the piping system and since the tank has the largest surface area it is generally one of the weakest points in the piping system. relatively speaking.

A vacuum is the absence of pressure. If there is no internal pressure, there is no force to fight atmospheric pressure. There is and always will be a constant force (atmospheric pressure) acting on the outside of the tank walls. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 pounds per square inch. When a full vacuum is created, there is no internal pressure in the tank to fight atmospheric pressure (external force) and the result can be seen in the video above.

For smaller applications, such. a point sprayer or small area spray unit, a simple vented top cap can be used to avoid tank collapse. Note that the user will see some sloshing or spillage coming out of the vent. This is normal as the vent is doing what it is designed to do – allow the tank to release internal pressure and “breathe”. Even with small tank applications like this spot sprayer, having a vent is important. Many solutions tend to evaporate when heated. This causes expansion due to the extra volume the vapor creates. Without venting, an end user will notice swelling in even the smallest of tanks.

Many smaller bleeder caps are simple and have only an internal spring. The spring acts as a relief valve, releasing the pressure in the tank. In addition, the vent also allows air to enter the tank – it is a bi-directional valve.

So if pressure builds up in the tank – from heating, expanding or vaporizing the product – the tank valve allows that pressure to be released or released. Thus, a vent can work in two different ways.

First, pulling a vacuum in the piping system helps a tank not collapse. As can be seen in the large tank images above, we can do the same with smaller tanks if we create a vacuum in the piping system. Second, venting allows a tank to breathe outwards when the liquid in the tank starts to vaporize — when a liquid vaporizes and turns into a gas, it actually takes up more space. This can be seen with a small plastic gas tank if left in the sun. While a tank can collapse inwards, it can also burst outwards.

The bottom line of this discussion topic: Always use a tank purge valve to ensure your tank stays in service and you don’t have a big mess. If you have any further questions, do not hesitate to call us. Your experts for fluid handling solutions – We Know Flow!

Cleaning the lawnmower’s petrol tank is very important, usually in addition to changing the petrol for a fresh one. This usually happens when the lawn mower has not been used for a long time. My lawnmower has been out of action for a few months now and the springs are fast approaching, you can already see the grasses growing. It was time to get the lawn mower. However, I knew that my mower would not start when I tried because I left gas in it the entire time it was not in use. I knew I couldn’t avoid cleaning the gas tank because so much dirt had already settled and even clogged the gas line.

To clean the lawn mower fuel tank:

Safety: Remember that while the gas in the tank is stale, it is still highly flammable. Therefore, it is important to ensure your safety by not smoking nearby.

Remove the plugs: This is also a safety precaution. Because the steam is enough to start the engine and set the blades in motion, which can be really dangerous. Never clean your mower’s fuel tank while the plugs are connected.

Drain the tank: Before proceeding with cleaning the tank, remove any fuel or gas remaining in the tank. Emptying the fuel tank is also easy to understand and uncomplicated.

Cleaning the Tank and Carburetor: A can of carburetor cleaner can be used to clean the tank. The cleaner should be sprayed into the fuel line outlet hole of the petrol tank. The inside of the tank should also be sprayed thoroughly.

Flush the tank: Never use water to flush the tank. This is because water residue can be harmful to both the carburetor and the injectors. Fresh gas should be used to flush the tank. Simply close the tank and give the mower a good shake to ensure the tank is fully flushed. Remove the gas and repeat the process if necessary. The gas used to flush the tank can also be used to wash other parts of the engine and should therefore not be discarded.

Filling up the tank: Only fresh gas should be used for this. It is important to note that any gas older than a month is not suitable as it has already started to decompose. Therefore, only fresh gas (less than a week old) should be used. Buy your petrol at a well-known and well-frequented petrol station.

Your gas tank is clean and your lawnmower is now ready to use. If your mower does not start after cleaning the fuel tank, you may need to clean and service other mower components such as the air filter or spark plugs.

If you fill your lawnmower’s fuel tank to the top, gasoline may spill out of the cap’s vent hole. While this isn’t technically a leak, it may look like it and even appear to be coming out of the tank’s seam. This could make it difficult to locate actual leaks, so you should avoid over-inflation if possible. Adding more oil to the engine than necessary can also cause a leak, which can be dangerous. This often happens when you’re trying to put cold oil into a cold engine and it’s moving slowly, causing you to add more than you need.