I Can’T Find My Shrimp In My Tank? Best 51 Answer

Aquarium shrimp are known to be quite sensitive and easily stressed crustaceans. So when we see signs of stress in shrimp, it’s also important to identify the source and resolve the issues before they become a bigger problem.

Some of the most common signs of stress in shrimp include lethargy, loss of appetite, loss of color, reduced growth, and problems with shedding.

Signs of stress in aquarium shrimp can be difficult to spot. They are often subtle and not always immediately apparent.

In this article I will discuss various signs that aquarium shrimp are stressed and what can cause them (I will also provide links to my other articles where I meticulously describe each reason mentioned). So read on to learn more about it!

List of common signs of stress in shrimp

There are several signs of a stressed shrimp. It may be:

Lethargy, irregular swimming, loss of color, loss of appetite, reduced growth, problems with shedding, reduced fertilization success and reduced fertility, loss of oocytes.

What is stress for shrimp?

Stress in aquarium shrimp is a physiological response to noxious stimuli.

They can become overwhelmed when experiencing conditions that cause physical discomfort and trigger a physiological response.

Even short-term stressors for your pet can have a negative impact on their health. If it persists over time, it can weaken their immune system and make them more susceptible to illness.

Too much stress on the shrimp can even lead to deformities, higher mortality rates and other major problems.

So let’s list them in order of priority, in my opinion, and tackle them one by one.

1. Increased Movement

Increased exercise (irregular swimming) is probably the easiest way to notice that something is wrong with either the aquarium water or the health of your shrimp.

When shrimp are subjected to significant stress, they often develop strange swimming and movement patterns. For example, if your shrimp are swimming frantically, bumping into each other, or even scratching intensely with their body parts, that’s a sure sign that they’re under a lot of stress.

For more information, see my article “Shrimp Behavior: Why Are They Keeping Swimming Around?”.

2. Lethargy

Lethargy is another easy sign of stress in shrimp.

In general, shrimp are active animals. These little guys are always busy and their walking/swimming style has an intriguing effect. In fact, it’s one of the main reasons shrimp are so interesting to watch.

Therefore, decreased swimming and/or exercise activity typically indicates a serious problem. Lethargy often occurs right after increased exercise. In this case, it is an indicator that the problem is acute and only getting worse.

3. Loss of color

Color loss (fading color) is the third obvious sign of the stressed shrimp.

It’s really important to understand why your shrimp are losing color as soon as possible, as this can be a symptom of something much more serious.

There are many reasons that can be responsible for your shrimp color loss, the most common are:

shipping stress

bad water values.

You can also read my article “How to improve shrimp color?”.

4. Loss of appetite

Shrimp are great scavengers. In aquariums, they help keep the tank clean by grazing on algae or eating biofilm, detritus, uneaten fish food, dead animal or plant remains, etc.

Basically, they will eat any organic matter that falls to the bottom of the tank. It makes them an amazing clean-up crew.

Therefore, any loss of appetite is a common sign that shrimp are feeling stressed, as this is a symptom that the shrimp’s immune and nervous systems may be compromised.

When shrimp are under stress, their mechanisms for controlling food intake and appetite signals in the brain do not work as they should.

5. Decreased growth rate

As with lethargy and increased exercise, decreased growth is closely related to loss of appetite. In many cases, it’s the next step in the same problem.

If the shrimp’s immune and nervous systems are not functioning, the shrimp’s intestinal metabolism will be affected. As a result, inappropriate feeding numbs their growth rate and weakens the shrimp even more.

Generally, it takes about 75-80 days for the baby shrimp to mature and mature.

Any deviations are an indicator of stress in shrimp.

6. Shedding problems

Like all crustaceans, shrimp need to shed their skin in order for their body to grow. However, molting is also the most dangerous part of a shrimp’s life, as any disturbance can result in death.

Stressed shrimp may already be weakened by other factors (e.g. inadequate diet and problems with the immune system (molding hormones), so molting problems are much more likely to occur.

Main reasons for molting problems in shrimp are:

Unbalanced diet.

Sudden changes in water parameters.

Too large or too frequent water changes.

bad acclimatization.

See also Dwarf shrimp problems and molting for more information. The White Ring of Death”.

7. Decreased fertility and reduced fertilization success

In general, each female can carry up to 50 eggs on her life jackets, depending on her size. Shrimp are prolific breeders once they are healthy.

Stressed shrimp will not breed much or at all.

Stress can affect fertility. Incomplete fertilization of an ovum, where the ovum lacks the genetic material to develop into an embryo, also results in the loss of the ovum.

Read more about it in my article “Red Cherry Shrimp Breeding and Life Cycle”.

8. Loss of eggs

The loss of eggs is a sign of stress in aquarium shrimp, which is also associated with reduced fertilization success.

See my article Missing Shrimp Eggs: Why It Happens for more details.

Common causes of stress in shrimp

The list of the most common causes of stress in shrimp includes:

As we can see, there are many signs of stress and some of them can be difficult to spot right away. But what’s worse, pinpointing the exact reason can also be difficult.

It’s important to remember that stress can lower shrimp’s immune systems, making them more susceptible to disease. Chronic stress can inhibit the shrimp’s immune response and ability to fight disease.

Therefore, we need to know how to avoid, control or treat all these things in shrimp tanks.

Finally

Shrimp can show signs of stress in a number of ways.

The problem, however, is that stress is often a result of multiple factors, so it can be difficult not only to identify the problem, but also to fix it.

Nonetheless, the easiest way to tell if your pets are stressed or not is to look at their activity level, appetite, and appearance.

If shrimp are scurrying around in the tank, or barely moving, if they seem less hungry, or if their color is fading – there’s a good chance something is wrong.

Other changes are not as obvious, especially for beginners, and include reduced growth, molting problems, reduced fertilization success, reduced fertility, and loss of eggs.

As we can see, stress can cause legitimate and very devastating health issues for your shrimp. Therefore, the causes of stress should be addressed immediately.

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Dwarf shrimp are lovable, easy-care aquarium animals. But if you’re like me and just can’t stand a tank of a single species – they need places to hide if you want them to breed. Even supposedly shrimp-safe fish, like the peaceful micro rasbora and the weensy dwarf amber barbel, will eat shrimp. Driftwood tangles and boulders help, but the more hiding places the better.

But the price tags on shrimp skins are appalling! quit

Here are some free or inexpensive alternatives.

If you like dwarf shrimp, you probably have one (or more!) planted tanks. You know those little black baskets that come with aquatic plants? They make great skins! And they are free.

You can tuck them into the substrate as is or weave moss through the slots to create a moss top like I did here with strands of phoenix moss.

If moss isn’t your thing, scraps of non-metallic screen secured with aquarium-safe silicone also work well. One of our lawn chairs broke so I cut out the drink holder and used it. 100% Free Skins!

Another inexpensive solution that also purifies your water is Cholla. I like to cut them into lengths and then scare everyone by slicing them into pieces with power tools.

Once cut, stick them in a bowl, pour boiling water over them, then wait for them to expand and sink a bit (usually within 24 hours). Even when extended, their holes are so thin that only the most determined fish can reach your shrimp.

Other free to inexpensive alternatives include:

Pieces of broken clay pots (no sharp edges)

PVC waste

Tiny planters (the nice little terrarium plants go in)

Tiny Tupperware

Or any other aquarium safe material you have on hand that can provide protection for your shrimp. Get creative and alternatives will abound.

Happy refueling!

Shrimp are friends, not food!

As rewarding as keeping fish can be, sometimes it needs more variety. As you might have guessed from my Instagram profile (@shrimpery), I’m a huge fan of keeping freshwater shrimp as pets. In fact, they got me into the aquarium hobby! Here’s a quick guide to keeping these friendly, colorful, and prolific animals in your own tank.

First things first, the species of shrimp you choose will determine how easy it is to keep and breed them. I divide the selection into three categories:

Neocaridina is not only the species I keep, but also the easiest and cheapest of the three species to buy, and they will be the focus of this guide.

Neos, you are the chosen one

Hardy, adaptable, and prolific, Neocaridina davidi (aka the dwarf cherry shrimp) are an ideal choice for any aquarist interested in shrimp, especially a beginner. There are many color variants including red, blue, black and green; Because they have been carefully bred to express these colors, it is not advisable to keep multiple colors in the same tank. They mate indiscriminately, and the offspring are often a uniform brown or clear color. My favorites are the varieties “Blue Dream” and “Black Rose”.

When purchasing shrimp, keep in mind that they are social animals that do best in large groups of at least ten individuals. Any less than that, and they tend to hide rather than graze outdoors as a group. I often see beginners making the mistake of just buying a few shrimp for their community tank and then complaining that they never see the shrimp.

No new friends

Large or aggressive fish are not suitable roommates for shrimp. Barbs, Bettas, and many others will often bully or harass the shrimp or eat the shrimp directly for dinner. Your best bet is a shrimp tank, or a tank with small, peaceful fish (like Gluttetras or Corydoras), lots of vegetation, and a decent volume of water.

Don’t worry about the crowds

Shrimp are very small and have a lower metabolic waste output than fish, so they can be kept in smaller tanks/more populated conditions. Still, I wouldn’t force it; It’s best to do a maximum of 10-15 shrimp per five gallons. Really, a 20 gallon tank is best for breeding. When comfortable, Neocaridina shrimp often reproduce (with a large enough base population, this happens without any special effort on the part of the owner), and you will soon find that your tank is filled with many tiny shrimp. Almost any fish will devour these baby shrimp, so it makes sense to keep them in a shrimp-only tank or a heavily planted tank if you want any of the shrimp to survive and grow to adulthood. I have a large breeding colony in my densely planted high tech that contains a small population of fish.

Neocaridina shrimp are native to temperate, shallow basins in Asia. This gives them the benefit of not actually needing heating (as long as your home stays in the 65-80 F range year-round). I find mine to be most comfortable and active at 70-76 F. They like relatively soft, acidic water and in my experience will thrive best in conditions around pH 6.8-7.5, GH 4-6 and lower KH. Despite these preferences, they can usually adapt to most conditions and can even live in somewhat hard water (although I wouldn’t recommend it).

Shrimp are easier to keep than fish in many ways, but they are much more sensitive to changes in their water chemistry. Please note that they are very sensitive to copper and many other metals; Excessive iron fertilization to achieve red plants or water additives containing copper can lead to rapid death. The trace amount of iron found in a complete plant fertilizer is more than enough to achieve the bright red plants and should not harm your Neocaridina shrimp at low levels.

Where am I?

Shrimp are less responsive to sudden changes in water conditions, much more so than fish. If you see your shrimp swimming around like fish in the tank after a water change, it means they are not happy with the new water you have added. With this in mind, it’s important to change the water at least once a week to avoid a build-up of waste (two 30 percent changes a week are better than one 50 percent change).

I do many water changes in my high tech aquarium, but my shrimp don’t mind as I take steps to ensure that the new water I add closely matches the parameters of the water already in the tank (You can read more about it). in my previous article on understanding water parameters). Failure to adapt to new water conditions can result in jumping behavior or death. Shrimp will not typically jump or climb out of a tank once they are happy with the water parameters.

What about keeping shrimp in high-tech tanks? Many people have had success breeding Neocaridina shrimp in CO2 supplemented aquariums, but it is important to ensure that the CO2 does not get too high. This can be accomplished by using a drop checker and making sure it’s green (as opposed to yellow). Fluctuating pH due to changing CO2 levels is another thing to watch out for.

What would you like to eat? What ever …

When it comes to food, shrimp are scavengers with relatively modest requirements compared to fish. Special feeding may not be needed in a community tank as the shrimp will eat uneaten fish food, algae and biofilm. In a dedicated shrimp tank or a tank with a sparse stock of fish, the shrimp can be fed a few times a week (with uneaten food being removed after about an hour). I feed my SL-Aqua M.O.R.E White Pellets.

I have been keeping and growing Neocaridina shrimp in my high tech planting tanks for years with no problems thanks to my compliance with the above rules. I hope this guide will help you succeed with yours. With the right attitude and care, you can farm your shrimp and never have to buy them again!

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We hope this article on a beginner’s guide to keeping freshwater shrimp species gives you the confidence and know-how to start your own colonies! For products you can trust, check out our range of SL-Aqua products. A big thank you to Shrimpery for providing a thorough and beginner-friendly guide to keeping freshwater shrimp. Visit his Instagram for great planted aquarium photos and knowledgeable posts!

Click below for more detailed instructions:

Bubblers are a much discussed topic in the shrimp hobbyist community. Need a bubbler in your tank? Or, more importantly, do shrimp like bubblers?

After all, you’re giving them that extra piece of armor gear for their enjoyment, right?

Ask the owner of your local aquarium shop and they will tell you that bubblers are a necessary piece of equipment. However, shrimp enthusiasts are divided on the practical application in their tanks.

Shrimp like a lot of oxygen in their tank. Whether the added oxygen comes from a bubbler or a good filter setup makes no real difference to them.

If you’re looking for a simple answer to whether shrimp like bubblers, you might be disappointed. However, reading the pros and cons of this lengthy debate can help you make your own decision on whether to fit one in your tank.

Do shrimp like a bubbler in their tank?

Some shrimp enjoy swimming in the bubble stream provided by bubblers, but this preference is not universal. It can depend on what shrimp you have and how hard the bubble jet is running.

One of the main reasons for including an air stone or bubbler in a shrimp tank is to improve water circulation and flow. Better flow means better oxygenation for your little critters.

However, the saying “too much of a good thing” can apply here if you already have a filter system that stirs up the water.

For example, HOB or hang-off back filters usually provide enough surface agitation to circulate the water. In this case, having a bubbler in the tank is purely for aesthetics and pleasure (for you and some shrimp).

Some shrimp hobbyists say bubblers, which produce tiny bubbles (as opposed to the larger ones from a filter), can get stuck under their exoskeleton. When this happens, the shrimp cannot molt or die.

Other shrimp farmers have a “it can’t hurt” philosophy when it comes to bubblers and air stones. Your logic stems from the main reason you would put a bubbler in a tank in the first place: aeration. More surface agitation means more gas exchange and therefore more oxygen for the shrimp, and high oxygen levels result in happier shrimp.

If you have a bubbler or are planning to add one to your current shrimp tank, you should monitor your colony closely for signs of stress such as: Fortunately, high bubble flow is easily remedied by using an air valve to control the bubble flow rate.

Are Air Stones Good for Shrimp?

Shrimp need relatively clean water in their tanks to thrive, and bubblers can help with that if your filter setup isn’t already circulating a flow of water.

Additionally, you want adequate water flow in your tank to prevent layers from forming near the bottom material or substrate of the tank where the shrimp live.

Bubblers and bubble stones are also an effective way to facilitate oxygenation by disturbing the water surface and promoting gas exchange. This disturbance also helps control biofilm growth in a tank. Shrimp do eat biofilm in their habitats, but too much of it is unhealthy for them.

Also, some shrimp like to swim in a bubble current if the current is gentle enough and doesn’t throw them through the tank.

If you are a shrimp farmer you may want to explore adding air stones to your tank setup. Other shrimp enthusiasts have reported that the addition of an air stone or two can improve baby survival, and shrimp love the extra oxygen an air stone can provide.

Do shrimp need bubblers?

Shrimp don’t necessarily need bubblers in their tank unless you have a filtration system that doesn’t agitate the water enough for gas exchange.

Your shrimp need a certain GPH level (varies by species), and bubblers can help maintain that oxygen level. But filters can also take over this task.

For example, the aforementioned HOB-type filter can provide enough agitation to ensure adequate water flow and therefore oxygenation of your shrimp. However, if you decide to use a sponge filter in a large capacity tank, you may need a bubbler or air stone to prevent standing water.

Sponge filters create a flow of water and gentle air bubbles when an air pump pushes through the sponge walls, but that may not be enough.

Some shrimp lovers report that their shrimp love to sit next to the sponge filter and swim in the stream of water. However, if you have a large tank, those intermittent bubbles may not be enough to move all of the water.

In this case, adding an air stone to a sponge filter can help optimize water circulation and reduce stress on the filter. Instead of intermittent large bubbles being pushed through a sponge filter, air stones disperse the air into a steady stream of continuous tiny bubbles that some shrimp enjoy.

Remember that air stone and bubbler requirements mainly depend on a variety of factors such as:

tank size

Shrimp Variety

water parameters

In general, bubblers and airstones are not considered “essential” parts in a shrimp tank, especially if you have adequate flow and oxygenation through your filtration system. Adding gentle bubbles to a tank can help water flow and break up protein films in the water, but your filter can already do this.

One of the best things you can do for your shrimp is to watch them and see if they need an air stone or bubbler. If your shrimp aren’t thriving in their current environment, adding bubbles to the tank can help.

in summary

Fancy bubblers make an aquascape look great, but the bigger question is whether or not shrimp like bubblers. This answer may depend on your setup and shrimp. Shrimp like oxygenated water, like a gentle bubble flow, but depending on how you set up your aquarium, you may not need one.

If you are new to shrimp farming, you may want to observe your shrimp’s behavior. Shrimp congregating near the water’s surface is a warning sign that they are not getting enough oxygen in the water. Using a bubbler or air stone can help alleviate the oxygen issue and keep your shrimp happy and thriving.

This time I answer the most frequently asked questions. I saw some of them on the internet while others were sent to my email address.

1. What are dwarf shrimp?

Shrimp are crustaceans of the order Decapoda (Deca (Greek for) – ten; poda – feet). The name describes one of the characteristics of these dwarf invertebrates – the fact that they have five pairs of movable legs.

2. Do dwarf shrimp sleep?

Yes, they do. However, dwarf shrimp do not lie down for this. In behavioral terms, sleep is characterized by minimal movement, lack of response to external stimulation, and decreased heart rate. In general, dwarf shrimp usually stay (even upside down) in a motionless place and with their antennae down. Unfortunately, there are no studies on sleep duration.

3. Can you eat dwarf shrimp?

Yes you can. But they are too small and don’t have much meat. For example, adult red cherry shrimp weigh about 1g (adult Amano shrimp weigh about 3g). The main muscles are in the abdomen. A dwarf shrimp has about 0.3 g of meat.

4. Can dwarf frogs live with shrimp?

Dwarf frogs and shrimp are not compatible. Dwarf frogs are large enough to eat Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp. Therefore, they will try to catch the shrimp at every opportunity. Amano shrimp or ghost shrimp are also not safe from dwarf frogs.

5. Can dwarf puffer fish live with shrimp?

No, they cannot live with dwarf shrimp. Dwarf puffer fish will eventually wipe out your shrimp colony. Larger shrimp such as ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp are also not without risk.

6. Can shrimp be safely kept with fish?

Unfortunately, it is very difficult to keep a shrimp colony with fish unless they are Otocinclus catfish. This fish is extremely peaceful and 99% safe for the baby shrimp. In all other cases you will have some casualties or complete shrimp annihilation.

You can read more about Сherry Shrimp in a Community Tank. Tips for Success” here.

7. Can dwarf crabs live with shrimp?

It’s very unlikely. All crustaceans (even relatively peaceful Mexican dwarf crayfish) are opportunistic feeders. That means if they can catch it (shrimp or small fish) they will eat it. It is therefore not advisable to keep every type of crab with every type of dwarf shrimp.

You can read more about this in my article “Mexican Dwarf Crabs – Detailed Guide: Care, Nutrition and Breeding”.

8. What do dwarf shrimp eat?

They are omnivorous (detritivorous) feeders. As such, they will eat anything that falls on the bottom of your aquarium – fish food, shrimp food, flakes, pellets, vegetables, etc. This makes them an excellent cleaning crew.

In the wild, according to studies, the most common food is detritus, found 93% in shrimp intestines (algae is second – 65%).

Related article:

9. Do dwarf shrimp eat plants?

No, they do not eat healthy plants. I want to emphasize it again – healthy plants. However, they eat dying or decaying plants. Sometimes it confuses novice aquarists. But don’t worry, your shrimp are more aware of everything that’s happening in your tank. After all, they are scavengers. Let them do their job.

10. Do I need a heater for a shrimp tank?

Given that Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp can easily withstand temperatures of 18-28 C (64-82 F), this is not necessary. However, if your room temperature fluctuates too much (too quickly), it would be better to install a heater. If you plan to keep Sulawesi shrimp, you will also need a heater in that case to keep the tank warm enough (they need 26-29°C or 79-84°F).

11. How long do you have to wait before adding shrimp to a new tank?

First of all, the tank must be fully run before you add the shrimp. Ammonia and nitrites should not be present. However, if you really want to be successful, I would wait (mature) a few more weeks for some algae growth to show up on the side walls of the tank. Algae are one of the most important natural food sources for shrimp.

12. What water parameters do you need?

Although most shrimp are quite adaptable, their needs vary depending on the habitat. So it really depends on the type of shrimp. For example

pH (optimal) KH (optimal) GH (optimal) TDS (optimal) Cherry shrimp 7.0 – 7.5 2 – 4 6 – 8 150 – 200 Ghost shrimp 7.0 – 7.4 5 – 8 5 – 8 150 – 200 Amano shrimp 7.0 – 7.4 2 – 4 7 – 8 150 – 200 Cardinal shrimp 7.8 – 8.2 4 – 8 6 – 8 100 Ba mb oo shrimp 6.5 – 7.5 2 – 6 6 – 8 150 – 200

13. What is the best freshwater shrimp for beginners?

For beginners I would recommend the following species: red cherry shrimp, amano shrimp and ghost shrimp.

You can read more about the “3 Hardiest Dwarf Shrimp for Beginners” here.

14. What is the life cycle of cherry shrimp?

The embryonic development of the oocytes lasts 25-35 days. Newly hatched baby shrimp look like a tiny copy of the adult shrimp. At this stage they are about 2 mm long. In 60 days they become juveniles and it is possible to distinguish females and males. They become adults 15 days later and are ready to mate within 1 to 3 days.

You can read more about “Red Cherry Shrimp Breeding and Life Cycle” here.

15. How many eggs can shrimp have?

It all depends on the type of shrimp. For example, red cherry shrimp can have 20 to 50 eggs. Depending on the size and age of the female, Amano shrimp can carry hundreds or even thousands of eggs.

16. How often do shrimp breed?

Generally they can breed every 1-2 months. But it also depends on the type and the temperature. The high temperature increases their metabolism and they can breed more often. However, it also has disadvantages. The faster their metabolism, the shorter the shrimp’s lifespan.

You can read more about How frequent mating affects dwarf shrimp here.

You can read more about “How temperature affects dwarf shrimp farming” here.

17. Do dwarf shrimp eat their babies?

No, they don’t eat their young. Dwarf shrimp are perfectly peaceful and non-aggressive creatures (except for the Macrobrachium shrimp, which are predatory. They can easily prey on adult dwarf shrimp, snails, and even small fish). However, if you deprive them of all important nutrients (protein), all shrimp can become cannibalistic.

18. Can I keep red cherry shrimp with ghost shrimp?

It is possible but not advisable. Although ghost shrimp and cherry shrimp do not breed, ghost shrimp can be quite aggressive and cannibalistic. Because of the size difference (ghost shrimp are twice the size of cherry shrimp), it can become a real problem.

19. How long do dwarf shrimp live?

Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp can live 1 to 2 years. Ghost shrimp have a lifespan of 1 to 3 years. Amano shrimp can live up to 5 years. Bamboo fan shrimp can live up to 7 years. Cameroon fan shrimp can live 8-10 years.

Read more about How long do dwarf shrimp live? right here

20. Can cherry shrimp breed in fresh water?

Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi var. red) are a species of freshwater dwarf shrimp. They breed exclusively in fresh water. Neocaridina tolerates light brackish water for some time. However, in most cases they stop breeding.

21. How many dwarf shrimp per gallon (litre)?

You can have 1 – 3 shrimp per 1 liter of water (5 – 10 per gallon).

You can read more about how many shrimp can I have in my tank. exactly here.

22. How often do dwarf shrimp molt?

That depends on the age of the shrimp. Newly hatched shrimp molt every few days. Young shrimp usually molt every 4-10 days. Adult dwarf shrimp molt every 1 – 1.5 months).

You can read more about the topic “Aquarium: Moulting process and metabolism of dwarf shrimp” here.

23. How fast do dwarf shrimp grow?

In the usual understanding, dwarf shrimp do not grow. They have an outer covering that limits the size of their growth. Therefore, in order to grow, they must shed the old shell. It’s called molting. According to studies, the shrimp increase in body size after skinning:

Post-larval stage – 20%. Young shrimp – 7%. Adult dwarf shrimp molt only to regenerate lost limbs.

You can read more about the topic “Aquarium: Moulting process and metabolism of dwarf shrimp” here.

24. How often to feed dwarf shrimp?

Some shrimp farmers do this every day, others only feed their shrimp 2-3 times a week. As you can see, there is only one rule here. You can feed them as often as you like as long as you DO NOT overfeed them. Overfeeding is the number one problem for novice shrimp keepers. They don’t know or just underestimate that shrimp are scavengers. You will almost always be able to find a food source in your tank.

Leftover food can quickly decompose and cause an outbreak of infection.

25. How do I know if my shrimp is pregnant?

Pregnancy is not the right term here. Basically, female shrimp go through two stages:

Stage “The Saddle”.

You can see it on the female’s back. The saddle consists of small undeveloped and unfertilized eggs that form in the woman’s ovaries.

The berry phase.

After mating, the female moves the eggs from the “saddle” to the brood pouch (under the abdomen) and at that moment the eggs pass through the sperm and are fertilized. A female that carries eggs under her abdomen is said to be “berryy.”

You can read more about Shrimp Gender. Feminine and masculine difference.” right here.

26. How big do dwarf shrimp get?

It depends on the style. Most Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp grow to an adult size of 2-3cm, which is just over an inch. However, there are exceptions. For example, Amano shrimp grow up to 1.5 – 2″ (3 – 6 cm). In addition, we also have real giants in this hobby, bamboo shrimp can be 8 – 10 cm long and can hardly be described as “dwarfs”.

27. How to care for dwarf shrimp?

In short, depending on the species, you need certain water parameters, a filter and an air pump. Also, it would be better to lay a substrate and add some plants.

You can read more about Guide: How to Breed Shrimp here.

28. Are Red Cherry Shrimp easy to keep?

Yes they are. Red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are very easy to keep and are the perfect beginner shrimp to try before moving on to other types of shrimp.

You can read more about Red Cherry Shrimp – Detailed Guide: Care, Nutrition and Breeding here.

29. Can dwarf shrimp live without a filter?

Yes, they can live without a filter. However, to do this you need to have a lot of plants in the tank (really a lot!). Keep in mind that if you want to maintain such an ecosystem, you need to leave the lights on more than 12 hours a day.

It is not recommended for beginner shrimp keepers.

You can also read “The best filter system for shrimp farming” right here.

30. Can Red Cherry Shrimp mate with Crystal Shrimp?

No they can’t. Red cherry shrimp (genus Neocaridina) and crystal red shrimp (genus Caridina) cannot breed. They also prefer different water parameters. So it’s not a good idea to keep them together.

You can read more about shuffling in my article Culling Shrimp. Selective Breeding.”

31. Why aren’t my shrimp colorful?

This is a very difficult question. There can be many reasons why it happens. For example genetics, stressors, poor water quality, age (too young), insufficient nutrients, the color of the substrate, lighting, etc.

32. Can I improve the shrimp color?

Yes you can. In general, if you want to enhance and exaggerate the desired color, then in this case you need to do culling. For example, if you are talking about your current shrimp colony, you need to give them color-enhancing food.

You can read more about How to Enhance Shrimp Color. exactly here.

33. Why are my shrimp dying?

There can be so many reasons for this that it will not be possible to name them all. These are just some of them. For example, incomplete nitrogen cycle (ammonia, nitrites, nitrate), poor water parameters (PH, GH, KH, TDS), too hot/too cold, sudden changes in temperature and water parameters, insufficient nutrients, insufficient minerals, copper, overfeeding, parasites and Illnesses, poor acclimatization, different toxins, excessive water changes, gender imbalance, etc.

You can read more about “Survival Tips and How Not to Kill Your Shrimp” here.

34. Do shrimp eat fish/snail droppings?

Yes, they do. Shrimp are scavengers. They find, eat and clean everything in your aquarium including fish/snail droppings. In fact, this poop contains good bacteria for your digestive tract and is just an all-around win for everyone.

35. How big should a shrimp tank be?

The optimal tank size for shrimp is 10 gallons (40 liters). Of course, most dwarf shrimp can be kept in 5 gallon tanks or even smaller tanks. However, remember that consistency is the most important thing in the shrimp hobby. The problem with small aquariums is that it can be more difficult to keep all water parameters stable. Basically, this is the main reason why the 10 gallon tank is considered the optimal choice.

36. The best aquarium buddies for dwarf shrimp?

Any kind of snails. Snails and shrimp benefit from each other very well. They are not aggressive (except for slugs) and make an excellent cleaning crew.

Note: Do some research as there are some types of snails that eat healthily, for example: Marisa cornuarietis, Pomacea canaliculata (apple snail). It may be illegal to sell apple snails in some countries, they are in the top 100 worst invaders in the world and top 40 in Europe.

To learn more, you can read my article Marisa Cornuarietis Snail – Detailed Guide: Care, Diet, and Breeding.

37. What vegetables can I feed my shrimp?

You can feed them all kinds of vegetables. Shrimp are not picky eaters. They like to eat what you give them. In practice, shrimp farmers usually give them zucchini, cucumber, spinach, carrots, and kale.

You can read more “How to Properly Blanch Cucumbers and Zucchini for Shrimp, Snails and Fish”. exactly here.

38. How do shrimp reproduce?

Shrimp reproduce sexually. This means that males and females have to mate. Thereafter, female shrimp bear young in the form of eggs, which are carried in the underside of the abdomen until hatching. The number of eggs depends on the species and size of a female.

39. Do red cherry shrimp eat algae?

Yes, they do. In the wild, algae is the second most popular food for shrimp. Detritus takes first place.

40. How to prevent shrimp from escaping?

You need to lower the water level a few inches (about 1 inch from the top). Use a lid to cover your tank. Check your water parameters, they may try to escape if they don’t like the water.

41. What is the most popular dwarf shrimp?

Red Cherry Shrimp are hands down the most popular shrimp in this hobby, followed by Amano Shrimp and Crystal Red Shrimp.

42. Can pygmy gouramis eat dwarf shrimp?

Yes, you can. Their small size should not confuse you and give you a false sense of security. They can be quite aggressive and even harass adult shrimp until they die.

You can read more about Сherry Shrimp in a Community Tank. Tips for Success” here.

43. What is the largest dwarf shrimp?

This is a tricky question. I would say that Amano shrimp are the largest (1.5 – 2 inches (3 – 6 cm)). The point is that the term “dwarf shrimp” is not scientific. Therefore, it is not possible to answer this question correctly.

Amano shrimp belong to the genus Caridina, commonly referred to as “dwarf”. But there are also significantly larger shrimp in this hobby (e.g. bamboo shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis) – 8 – 10 cm (~3 – 4 inches) or Cameroonian fan shrimp (Atya gabonensis) can grow up to 6 inches (15 cm))) .

44. Can shrimp eat fish food?

Absolutely yes. Shrimp won’t care. That’s one of the reasons they’re so cool. You will eat almost anything.

45. Do shrimp need oxygen?

Yes, they do. In fact, they have gills to breathe.

You can read more about the respiratory system of dwarf shrimp in Dwarf Shrimp Internal Anatomy here.

46. ​​​​What are the most common diseases and parasites in dwarf shrimp?

Dwarf shrimp can have many diseases and parasites. However, the most common are Scutariella Japonica, Planaria, Vorticella, Hydra and Ellobiopsidae or Green Fungus.

47. Can I use plant fertilizer in my shrimp tank?

Yes you can use some. The problem is that almost all plant fertilizers contain copper. Shrimp are unfortunately very sensitive to copper. So if you decide to use one, you need to choose shrimp-safe fertilizers.

I made a list of shrimp-safe fertilizers (according to the manufacturer) in my article How Copper Affects Dwarf Shrimp.

48. Do shrimp need plants?

No, shrimp do not need plants. However, plants will greatly benefit shrimp tanks (additional filtration, aeration, hiding places, etc.).

You can read more about “Top 5 Pros and Cons of Plants in Shrimp Aquarium” here.

49. How can I distinguish a male from a female shrimp?

In most cases, it’s fairly easy to tell the difference. The females are usually larger and more colorful. The females also have a wider and more rounded tail. The more reliable indicator of sex is the presence of the so-called saddle (unfertilized eggs).

You can read more about Shrimp Gender. Feminine and masculine difference.” right here.

50. What is the basic tank setup for cherry shrimp?

Place 2 – 3 cm (~1 inch) of an inert substrate at the bottom of the tank. Next, install an aquarium filter and air pump. Fill it with water. Wait for the nitrogen cycle to complete. Add dwarf shrimp.

You can read more about Basic Shrimp Tank Setup for Neocaridina here.

Related articles:

10 questions to ask yourself when buying aquarium crustaceans

After we published our article on keeping Amano shrimp and cherry shrimp together, we noticed a number of people reached out and said their Amano shrimp was gone.

People initially seemed to think their cherry shrimp might eat their amano shrimp, but we doubt that is the case and then after seeing other people asking why their amano shrimp went missing we decided to try this one Publish articles to help as many of our readers as possible.

Many people who initially think their Amano shrimp are gone will later find that their Amano shrimp were simply either hiding among the plants in the tank or the Amano shrimp dug into the bottom of the tank.

There are a large number of places where an average sized Amano shrimp can easily hide for long periods in most aquarium designs.

Keep in mind that many fish will end up eating shrimp in their tank that they find, with bottom-dwelling fish often being the most likely species of fish that your Amano shrimp will also find and eat.

Because of this, some of your amano shrimp may actually disappear because the fish in your tank ate them as a quick and easy snack.

We know more and more people are starting to just keep shrimp tanks and once you have your setup organized like this it is not possible due to a lack of fish so one of the points covered in our article below can be far more will probably.

Is it normal for amano shrimp to disappear?

It is normal for Amano shrimp to “disappear” in most tank designs, but they usually only disappear for a short time as Amano shrimp like to hide, especially when in a tank with fish.

Amano shrimp not only regularly bury themselves in the substrate of their tank, but also hide in fish skins that you have in your tank, as well as in stones, decorations or plants.

The vast majority of modern aquarium setups typically have a soft substrate and some type of plant, be it live or artificial, with many tanks also having rocks or decorations.

As tiny little Amano shrimp, averaging 2 inches long when fully grown, they can easily hide in a variety of places, often confusing the person who tends their aquarium as you may one day find large numbers of Amano shrimp and the next day there may only be a fraction of the shrimp on display.

The partially translucent body of an amino shrimp can also make them very difficult to see in some aquarium setups as they can hide from the substrate quickly and easily.

If your tank has a high or even moderate light intensity, this will make it easier for the Amano shrimp to hide from their substrate even though they are in full view.

Why have my amano shrimp disappeared?

The most common reason Amano shrimp disappear from your aquarium is because they are hiding in hard-to-find spots, burying themselves in the substrate, or the fish in the tank are eating the Amano shrimp.

Most of your Amano shrimp that seem to have disappeared are usually just hiding and reappearing a few days later.

One thing you can do to get your Amano shrimp out of hiding is to throw a treat in the tank to lure them out of hiding.

There are a number of foods that work well for this, but one of the most reliable is definitely shrimp lollipops, which most shrimp love to eat, making them willing to come out of hiding to grab a bite.

If you think the fish in your tank might eat your Amano shrimp, then it might be a good idea to set up a shrimp-only tank.

The lack of potential predators allows most shrimp to thrive and reproduce at a surprisingly high rate, allowing you to get shrimp from your shrimp-only tank into your main aquarium faster than the fish that eat them can make their way through them be able.

This provides an inexpensive, easy and reliable way to replace your shrimp, ensuring that the detretus, algae and discarded food in your main tanks are always eaten by shrimp, even if your fish love to eat your shrimp.

Digging amano shrimp?

Amano shrimp love to burrow and burrow, especially when they feel threatened in a heavily stocked tank with a lot of fish in the tank.

However, unlike other shrimp species, Amano shrimp do not tend to do much digging other than burrowing themselves or burrowing slightly under rocks or tank decorations in your aquarium.

We would surmise that the digging habits of Amano shrimp are the main reason that so many people who choose to keep Amano shrimp in their tank generally think their shrimp are gone.

If you look closely at your substrate, you will often see signs that it has been disturbed recently, or notice small bumps in the substrate where Amano shrimp antennae often protrude.

We’ve seen some people blame their Amano shrimp for any holes or tunnels in their aquarium substrate, but this is not common behavior for Amano shrimp.

It is more likely that the tunnels in the substrate are usually due to other species of shrimp as well as possible signs that you may have different types of worms in your aquarium.

However, depending on your aquarium setup, we strongly recommend that you do further research as some worm species can cause problems in your aquarium in the future.

Why are my amano shrimp hiding?

The most common reasons Amano shrimp hide are that the shrimp feel threatened by their aquarium mates, just want some space to themselves and are looking for new food sources.

There are some less common reasons why the Amano shrimp are hiding in your aquarium, but these are by far the most common reasons.

Often you will find your Amano shrimp exploring areas of the tank that also serve as good hiding places when looking for new food.

This is common in setups with a large number of rocks as the Amano shrimp are looking for new sources of fresh algae or detritus to eat.

If you are actively trying to breed your Amano shrimp in your aquarium and you have shrimp breeding tubes, it can be common for some Amano shrimp to hide in them even if they don’t mate.

This is surprisingly common and many people are often unaware that shrimp farming tubes are more of a home and source of cover for your shrimp than something used purely for mating.

Will amano shrimp jump out of their tank?

In rare situations, Amano shrimp can jump out of their tank and essentially “disappear”, with the most common cause of this being overpopulation of the shrimp in the tank.

This can be very common in a shrimp-only tank as aquariums are usually small and in the ideal situation Amano shrimp can breed rapidly, causing their population to grow rapidly.

This is why so many people who have a shrimp-only tank typically use it to farm their shrimp, only to then move them to their main tanks to use as working shrimp to eat algae, detritus and discarded fish food.

This is very common and is to regulate the population of your Amano shrimp in your shrimp-only tanks to prevent overpopulation and to prevent the shrimp from jumping out of their tank or out of the water.

Most healthy Amano shrimp will not usually exit the water and attempt to jump out of their tank, provided the water conditions are okay and they have enough food.

This is why this is so rarely the reason Amano shrimp disappear into their tank, and the reasons we’ve covered earlier in this article are far more likely in most situations.

Conclusion

That ends our article on why your Amano shrimp have disappeared from your tank. We hope we have been able to help you better identify the reasons behind your Amano shrimp disappearing per month, but you will usually find that they have only been hiding temporarily and that they will usually come out of hiding again after a number the day.

Today I want to talk about bar bottom tanks, sand and gravel as substrate. We’re going to look at the pros and cons of sand and gravel for our shrimp and fish. We will try to find the answer if the substrate is needed at all. I will give you the list of pros and cons for each case.

So, without further ado, let’s get started right away.

The first thing people usually think about after buying a new aquarium is what they are going to put in there. Should it be sand, gravel or a specially created subsoil? But do they really need it? Is it possible to decorate the aquarium without a substrate and make it look natural? What are the advantages and disadvantages of having substrate in the aquarium at all and not at all?

Let’s start with No Substrate (BBT – Bare Bottom Tank)

Advantages:

The main advantage will be the ease of maintenance. It’s really easy to clean. You can take gravel siphon and get rid of any shrimp or fish waste very quickly. It’s easier to keep water chemistry at a certain level. The substrate can increase or decrease the water chemistry in a tank. Any aquarist will tell you that. It’s an endless struggle to keep it balanced when you have substrate in the tank. It doesn’t cost you anything. , sick (new) shrimp or fish. If parasites have entered with them, they cannot burrow into the substrate and live there. If you are a fish keeper, this is also the best option for breeding. If you are a shrimp farmer, this is the best option for shrimp culling and selective breeding. Open bottom tanks are really good as a “quarantine” for the plant diseased (new) shrimp or fish. If parasites have entered with them, they cannot burrow into the substrate and live there. If you are a fish keeper, this is also the best option for breeding. If you are a shrimp farmer, this is the best planarian option. There are no unexpected guests in the bare-bottomed pools. For example, bristleworms can be real troublemakers in saltwater aquariums, and flatworms () can also make shrimp keepers cry in freshwater aquariums.

Disadvantages:

It doesn’t look natural and a lot of people really don’t like it when the tank is almost empty. Another point I might add is that if you leave such a tank for a few days you will end up with a complete mess of fish or shrimp waste and all that uneaten food. Also, I can add that your fish and shrimp will be very unhappy too. There are some species of fish that like to interact with the substrate. Some like to bury themselves in search of food, others use it as camouflage or as a hiding place, because the underground plays a crucial role in the underwater world. As for the shrimp, they really must have something to hold on to. Planting Java Fern Driftwood We should not forget to mention that it will be a good challenge when you finally decide on an aquarium. Because you may need to use potted plants or tie plans (like Anubius) to rocks. Of course, if successful, your aquarium can be just as beautiful as any other planted aquarium, but it will cost you significantly more time and effort. Unfortunately, without a substrate, you will also get rid of the good critters like copepods and amphipods, which can be a natural food source for some fish. Water changes ammonia Another disadvantage is that there is no biological filtration. It means you have to do more often to control

Shrimp or aquarium with substrate

The substrate in a tank changes the whole picture. It makes it look far more satisfying.

The other benefit of having some type of substrate in the tank is the fact that the substrate offers more surface area. This means that this surface area in the tank will allow you to breed more microbes. These microbes allow you to get rid of ammonia and nitrites. Gravel and sand also provide plenty of surface area for these microbes to breed.

A second feature worth mentioning is that if you have gravel or sand in the tank it can to a point obscure the fish and shrimp waste. So when you’re done cleaning a few days later, it won’t look like a mess again.

gravel in the tank

Times are changing and what was good yesterday is outdated today. This is done nowadays with gravel and sand. They have been supplanted by hi-tech substrates in many tanks. You can read more about “Top 5 Substrates for Planted Aquariums” here.

Still, there are many old-school folks who still prefer natural substrates, although this may mean rinsing, cleaning, disinfecting, and testing for unwanted chemical elements before putting it in the aquarium.

Advantages:

The good thing about gravel is that it can look beautiful and you can get different colors and different shapes of gravel to suit your needs. Basically, you have a limitless selection of variants. Your baby shrimp will love hiding among the grains. Therefore it is excellent for their safety. As mentioned, it also hides the waste very well until you can do your in-tank cleaning. So your aquarium will look very nice for a long time. Another positive aspect of gravel is that some plants have a better chance of anchoring themselves to the surface. Gravel is great for column feeder plants. beneficial bacteria Unlike BBT, it can also be a good biological filter. Because it offers a large surface area for the water, there is no problem with cloudy water; on the contrary, it keeps the water clean. It’s easier to suck through the gravel to get all the bulk.

Disadvantages:

Unfortunately, the fact that gravel can cover the waste can also have a negative moment. In this case, if your gravel is too large, uneaten food tends to get trapped in that gravel much sooner than gravel that is smaller in size. This makes it easier to clean the tank filled with small gravel. The second downside is that you have to spend some money to buy it compared to a bottomless tank (thankfully it’s relatively cheap, $1-2 per 1lb). In addition, you need to know what type of fish you want because if you have fish that spend a lot of time at the bottom or fish that are very sensitive, some fish (such as loaches, armored catfish) may prefer others, in general it is larger Gravel may not be a good choice. For example, there have been many cases of fish cutting themselves on the gravel, which can eventually lead to death. Also fish like discus or catfish (they are quite obnoxious) could easily be scratched by the sharp edges on the gravel. Remember and be sure to only use smooth gravel. Algae can spread very quickly on gravel. There is always a risk of crushing the baby shrimp in the gravel when cleaning.

Tip: It is recommended to get a pound or two of gravel per gallon of aquarium.

sand in the tank

Although gravel has many advantages, sand can be really good for some setups. Sand also has some good points.

Advantages:

Nothing looks more natural than sand. There are no crevices for food to spill through, and while it seems to get dirtier faster, it just holds the dirt up rather than covering it. It is the cheapest compared to other substrates ($1 per 5 pounds). In addition, you can also get different sand colors. It can be sieved by fish without injury and moved easily. Many fish like to interact with the sand. Vallisneria In addition, some of your plants will grow well in the sand. For substrate-rooted plants (such as Cryptocoryne Wendtii, Aponogetonulvaceus, etc.), depth is critical. They need sufficient depth (2-3 inches) to provide rooting medium. If you don’t have rooted plants, there’s no reason to have the depth more than 1 inch.

Disadvantages:

Firstly, it usually cannot be a biological filter as the particles are smothered under the sand surface and are devoid of oxygen and therefore unable to accommodate aerobic bacteria. If you’ve packed a lot of sand, it can start trapping hydrogen sulfide gas (poisonous gas pockets are created) and it can damage and kill your shrimp and fish. To avoid this problem, your sand grit should be at least 0.02-0.04 inches (or 0.5-1mm). (Adding iron supplements can help control hydrogen sulfide (H2S)). Another option is to agitate (rake) it during water changes. You must first clean and rinse it very thoroughly before placing it in the tank. If you think it’s clean enough, clean it again. Some types of sand can change the chemical composition of the aquatic environment. Another disadvantage is that some plants do not root well in the sand. Sand does not have enough nutrients for vegetation, so fertilization is necessary. Grains of sand can damage the glass of the tank when cleaning if some grains stick to your scrubber. The last disadvantage is the fact that shrimp and fish waste is visible much faster than gravel. It gets dirtier faster and requires more work to keep the tank looking perfect.

Tip: If you’re buying sand and don’t want to spend a lot of money, stick with pool filter sand (or check out Estes Marine Sand) as opposed to play sand. It’s much finer in grit, more densely packed, and a little more difficult to clean.

Conclusion

It really doesn’t matter what you will choose. Your shrimp will be happy about anything, especially if you add some plants to your aquarium.

Everything just comes down to maintenance and with sand it can be a bit easier. Nonetheless, it shouldn’t stop you from trying Gravel. Because it’s a good biological filter and you never have to worry about trapped gas.

Choosing the best substrate for your new shrimp tank can be a bit difficult at first. There are many different options, each with their own pros and cons.

This article will help you understand the differences and make the perfect choice for your aquarium.

Do shrimp need a substrate?

Using a substrate in shrimp tanks is highly recommended, but not mandatory. Bare bottom tanks are usually an aesthetic choice and just personal preference.

Using a substrate offers a number of advantages:

Give the biofilm more room to grow

Create more habitat for beneficial bacteria and clean up crews like detritus worms

Provide more plant choice

Make the tank look more natural and interesting

Active substrates help stabilize water parameters

Beneficial Bacteria

More surface area for biofilm and beneficial bacteria is a very useful benefit. Biofilm makes up the majority of a shrimp’s daily diet, so letting them graze on the substrate all day is great.

While the majority of the beneficial bacteria required for a tank’s cycle will live in the filter, a good amount will reside elsewhere in the tank. Choosing a gravel or rock substrate has a lot more surface area than sand.

Clean-up crew members like detritus worms spend most of their time hiding in your substrate. They’re an incredibly helpful part of a healthy tank system, breaking down waste for plants and the take-away filter.

Plant

If you can bury some plants in the substrate, you have a lot more freedom when aquascaping.

You can also bury root tabs (fertilizer) in there for easy plant access. By having nutrients right next to the roots, this is much more efficient than diluting one fertilizer throughout the tank.

Some substrates also contain ammonia and other organic materials that enhance plant growth.

Natural looking

Stony or granular substrates are an easy way to give your aquarium a natural look.

In the wild, most dwarf shrimp would be found in streams and rivers, so recreating this type of environment is perfect for them.

buffering

Bee shrimp prefer to live in slightly acidic water. In their natural habitat, the rivers would be full of leaves that slowly release tannins into the water and lower the pH.

To keep bee shrimp happy, consider using an active substrate to buffer the water.

Active substrates

Active substrates are specifically designed to adjust water parameters over time, and in particular to lower pH.

They are sometimes referred to as buffer substrates because they are designed to buffer pH fluctuations and keep the water stable.

Because bee shrimp require low carbonate hardness (CH), we instead rely on the substrate to maintain a constant pH and reduce stress on the shrimp.

Caridina shrimp thrive in acidic water, typically in the pH range of 5.5 to 6.5. In order to give them their ideal parameters in the aquarium, we use these buffer substrates.

These substrates typically consist of organic material, which provides ample nutrients even for planted aquariums. You should expect ammonia to leak from the substrate for the first few weeks or months.

This is one of the reasons you should mature and mature your tanks for a few months before adding shrimp.

The main disadvantage of active substrates is that they eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Typically they will buffer your water properly between 12 and 18 months before becoming less effective or even useless.

Inert substrates

Neocaridina or cherry shrimp do not require an active substrate. They will be absolutely fine with inert material instead, as their preferred water will be able to buffer itself with its carbonate hardness.

sand

Using sand in a shrimp tank can create a pretty stunning look, but it comes with a few downsides.

Sand particles can accumulate over time and turn the ground almost into a kind of brick. This can cause anaerobic gas pockets to form as the air cannot escape.

If left unchecked, these pockets will eventually escape into the water and could cause health problems for residents.

Either you prick the substrate with a stick from time to time, for example when changing the water.

Alternatively, you could introduce burrowing snails like Malaysian trumpets to aerate the sand. They will constantly flip the sand and keep those pockets from getting too big.

Plants buried in sand can sometimes struggle to get enough nutrients to grow properly. The sand almost suffocates the roots, reducing their ability to take up nutrition.

gravel

Gravel is perhaps the most low-maintenance substrate available.

Gravel, unlike sand, does not compact over time and cause anaerobic gas entrapment.

The loose stones also make it easy for plants buried in the substrate to form their roots. This makes plants much safer when growing, unlikely to suddenly float to the surface one day.

The small gaps around the pieces of gravel allow nutrients to enter and clean up crew members like rubble worms.

Tiny tunnels can be dug between the pebble rocks by helpful worms. Detritus worms are an important part of the natural ecosystem in your shrimp tank. Giving them plenty of space to live happily will keep your aquarium healthy and stable.

How deep should the ground be?

You should aim for between about 1 inch and 3 inches of substrate in your aquarium.

You want enough to ensure it will hold its shape and not slide across the bottom with water movement from your filters.

However, if you go too deep, you risk anaerobic gas bubbles forming.

You can prevent this by either periodically pricking the substrate with a chopstick to release these trapped gases, or by adding Malaysian trumpet snails.

Malaysian trumpets are known for their sand sieving. They burrow into the soil, turning it over and preventing anaerobic bubbles from forming.

deep substrate

If you want to build an aquascape that has a high back or hilly areas, consider padding the space.

Instead of simply pouring more substrate material into the tank, try burying lava rocks to increase the volume. These stones are inert, which means they don’t react with the water and affect your parameters.

Dark or light background?

You have a lot of choices when deciding on the color of your substrate and it mostly comes down to personal preference. For now, we’re just talking about the basics of dark and light colors.

Dark underground

A dark substrate is probably the most common choice for shrimp tanks. Black gravel and dark brown Amazonian soil are very popular.

Shrimp are prey animals in the wild and therefore try to blend in with their environment and not attract attention. Using a dark substrate is recommended for deep colored shrimp like Red Cherrys.

If you opt for a lighter sand substrate instead, their coloration will be more likely to fade over time to better match their environment.

Dark floors also look cleaner for longer as the debris and litter mix on the floor.

Light substrate

Choosing a light substrate can make for some nice, bright aquascapes. The contrast of white sand with bright green plant leaves can be stunning.

On a lighter surface, however, dirt and deposits quickly become apparent. Rotting leaves and shrimp debris are very obvious and will darken the substrate over time.

To keep the floor looking light and clean, you need to vacuum the substrate with gravel much more often than with a dark substrate.

Over time, you will likely see your shrimp turn a lighter color with a white substrate. They are prey animals in the wild and want to camouflage themselves in the background for security.

This isn’t a problem with Amano shrimp as they are transparent, but it’s more noticeable with bolder colored shrimp like Yellow Fires.

Shrimp are bottom dwellers and because of this people believe these creatures can serve as a good cleaning crew to feed on the poop in the tank. However, that is further from the truth.

Shrimp will not eat fish droppings in your freshwater aquarium. It is not nutritious for them and does not support their growth. They only like healthy food sources like algae, worms, and even dead aquatic animals. So you might be disappointed if they refuse to help you eat fish poop in your tank.

Read on as I explain in more detail what shrimp eat, why they never eat fish poo, and what they do to help you clean out your tank instead. I’ll also discuss which fish eat fish poop just in case you want to get one next time. Let’s dive in!

Does anything eat fish poop in an aquarium?

Before getting into the main topic, it is important to know if any species of fish feed on feces in your aquarium.

Research shows that nothing eats fish poop in an aquarium, although some think a certain catfish eats fish poop in the tank. They often mistake food for feces, but when this happens, they immediately spit it out.

However, some types remove other debris in the pond in addition to fish waste or material products such as nylon, plastic, etc. These types of aquatic animals are called cleaning crews.

What is a clean up crew?

A cleaning crew is a specific aquatic animal that is specially brought into an aquarium or fish tank to be cleaned. For this reason, they are referred to as the clean-up crew. They are there to make your dirt look like it was never there.

There are different types of fish that can help clean a pond. They include:

Corydoras catfish

bristle catfish

grass carp

Siamese algae eater

Common catfish

mosquito fish

Snail

shrimp

Do shrimp eat fish waste?

Keeping your aquarium clean and fresh is not only aesthetically pleasing, it also benefits the health of the fish in your aquarium.

However, keeping it clean can sometimes be a Herculean task, and you might want an option that isn’t time-consuming and less stressful. For example, you can use a cleaning crew like Shrimp to get rid of tank waste.

Unfortunately, shrimp do not eat fish waste such as feces. If they eat it, it could be because they mistook the feces for food. They will spit it out as soon as they realize it. Shrimp just help scavenging for leftover food from the bottom of the tank or dead plants and fish.

The best way to remove feces is to manually clean the tank with a gravel vacuum like the Hygger Aquarium Gravel Cleaner (available at Amazon.com). This vacuum cleaner can be used for changing water, washing sand and vacuuming dirt. You don’t have to touch dirty water with your hands. If you like convenience, this vacuum cleaner is for you.

Will Shrimp Clean Your Tank?

While shrimp don’t eat fish poop, they do eat and can clean your tank. They clean after dead insects, plants, algae or uneaten food in the aquarium or pond. For this reason, they are referred to as cleaners.

Here’s what these shrimp eat and clean:

dead aquatic animals. Dead fish in a pond or aquarium are inevitable. It can only be minimized. Instead of manually disposing of corpses when one of your fish dies, you can introduce shrimp into your tank so they can feed on the corpses. Dead fish are nutritious for them.

Dead fish in a pond or aquarium are inevitable. It can only be minimized. Instead of manually disposing of corpses when one of your fish dies, you can introduce shrimp into your tank so they can feed on the corpses. Dead fish are nutritious for them. living creatures. Shrimp feed on dead and live aquatic life such as worms, snails and clams.

Shrimp feed on dead and live aquatic life such as worms, snails and clams. leftovers. Shrimp have been known to eat leftovers in a fish tank or aquarium. During feeding, some food will inevitably sink to the bottom. Shrimp are natural scavengers, so swimming down to look for the leftovers in an aquarium or pond is not a problem.

Shrimp have been known to eat leftovers in a fish tank or aquarium. During feeding, some food will inevitably sink to the bottom. Shrimp are natural scavengers, so swimming down to look for the leftovers in an aquarium or pond is not a problem. algae. There is no escaping algae growth in your aquarium or pond as algae is known to thrive in an environment with water or light. Once you notice an increase in them in your tank, put shrimp in the tank and they will feed on it.

There is no escaping algae growth in your aquarium or pond as algae is known to thrive in an environment with water or light. Once you notice an increase in them in your tank, put shrimp in the tank and they will feed on it. Insects. Dead bugs in your tank? No problem. A shrimp will be more than happy to eat it.

Dead bugs in your tank? No problem. A shrimp will be more than happy to eat it. dead plants. Too many dead plants in your aquarium are not suitable for the safety or health of your fish, so you can get shrimp to eat them.

Aquatic plants actually purify the water. If you are looking for aquarium plants that go well with shrimp, be sure to check out the list I have compiled here on my website.

Choosing a shrimp for your tank

You shouldn’t just grab a shrimp to clean out your tank without considering certain things. Shrimp can be colorful and beautiful, so let that influence your decision to get one.

To avoid such a mistake, I have listed some essential things that I believe you should not ignore when choosing shrimp for your freshwater aquarium.

Consider the size of your tank

You should consider the size of your tank if you want to get shrimp for it. How big or small it is will determine the number of shrimp you should get. A larger tank will require more shrimp to clean than a smaller tank.

Make sure your fish aren’t a threat to the shrimp

If the fish in your tank are carnivores, you might want to refrain from getting shrimp to clean the tank for you. Carnivorous fish tend to prey on shrimp. One way around this is to change the location of your fish when you decide to put the shrimp in your tank for cleaning.

Choose specific shrimp for cleaning

Not only do some shrimp adapt better to life in an aquarium than others, but there are shrimp that are recommended for specific cleaning. The type of shrimp you get for your aquarium depends on what you want them to clean. Some are better algae eaters, while others are best at scavenging for leftovers.

Best shrimp species for your tank cleaning

Note that not all types of shrimp are suitable for your aquarium as a cleaning crew, and when you consider that there are over 300 species worldwide, choosing the right one can be overwhelming. Don’t worry; Read on as I’ll recommend a few good ones to consider.

Below are some of the best to choose from for your tank cleaning:

Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp

This shrimp belongs to the cleaner shrimp family. As the name suggests, they are known for their cleaning abilities. They are hardworking crustaceans. Aside from removing debris from your freshwater, they also clean your fish.

Scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp are also known as red skunk cleaner shrimp due to their bright red stripes and can make a good addition to your aquarium. Just make sure your fish doesn’t like tasty crustaceans, or you can just move your fish to another tank while the scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp does its job.

Peppermint Shrimp

Unlike the scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp and blood red fire shrimp, the peppermint shrimp will not remove debris from fish in your aquarium.

Although they belong to the cleaner family, they care more about the dirt floating in your aquarium and the debris that lurks underneath.

If you’re faced with an Aiptasia infestation, peppermint shrimp will help clear things up by eating the little beasts as soon as they emerge. Aiptasia anemones are a nuisance to saltwater keepers, but they make a tasty meal for a mint shrimp.

ghost shrimp and glass shrimp

Also known as Palaemonetes paludosus, ghost shrimp and glass shrimp are freshwater shrimp native to the southeastern United States.

They are skilled scavengers and therefore excellent aquarium cleaners. Ghost shrimp and glass shrimp are also easy to keep and care for as they are excellent at keeping their surroundings clean. They are also known to be the perfect tank companions thanks to their peaceful nature.

They have an almost transparent body so you might have a hard time spotting them as they also like to hide. As always, make sure you don’t introduce them to a tank full of shrimp-eating fish.

They are not fussy about the type of food they eat, so they can feed on algae and leftover food.

Ghost or glass shrimp can be kept in small tanks without pressure. Unfortunately, their lifespan is only about a year.

Red cherry shrimp

These are also excellent scavengers; They free your aquarium from uneaten food or deposits. They are also known to be large algae eaters.

Red cherry shrimp are relatively tiny compared to other tank cleaners, so their consumption may be limited.

Due to their peaceful nature, these shrimp do well in the company of conspecifics and other shrimp species.

Banded coral shrimp

These shrimp are known for their beauty and body shape. They’re called box shrimp because they have large pincers that often wave around like a boxer in a fight.

Banded coral shrimp are found throughout the tropical tropics from New Zealand to Brazil and are one of the hardier cleaner shrimp on the market.

They are also scavengers, actively moving in search of food. However, due to their aggressive nature, it is best to keep them alone or as a true pair.

Blood Red Fire Shrimp

The blood-red fire shrimp, also known as bloodfish or fire shrimp, is another good cleaner shrimp from the Hippolytidae family. This shrimp also keeps your aquarium clean and free of debris.

It is almost similar to the scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp but lacks the long white stripe. A cleaning station, a kind of car wash for fish, can also be set up and fish that present themselves can be cleaned.

Crimson Fire Shrimp is nocturnal so it might be more active at night looking for leftovers in your tank. Because of this, they may be difficult to see during the day. They also keep to their own company, so you may often see them alone.

Amano shrimp

This shrimp species is easy to care for. When it comes to eating algae, they are considered the best cleaning crew. If you just want to rid your pond of algae on your own, Amano shrimp are one of the best options for you.

Sulawesi or cardinal prawns

This shrimp species is originally from the Sulawesi lakes in Indonesia. Keeping can be difficult as aquarium conditions should be similar to Sulawesi, so prior knowledge is required. Like the Amano shrimp, Sulawesi shrimp are omnivores and like to feed on algae.

snowball shrimp

This species of shrimp is a sight to behold. You look like a real snowball. Taking care of them can be easy; You don’t need any information about your water conditions.

However, you should be careful when feeding them as overfeeding can lead to health problems. They like to feed on algae so they will control algae growth when they are in your pond.

crystal shrimp

Caring for these shrimp can be difficult in an aquarium as they require constant water changes to survive. They are omnivores and spend their time foraging for food. If you want to keep them in an aquarium, make sure the other residents don’t chase the crystal shrimp.

The best way to remove fish waste in your tank

Depending on shrimp or other fish species, removing fish waste from your tank is one of the worst decisions you can make as a tank owner.

Performing the work manually is a more suitable option. Because this can be such a time-consuming and error-prone task, it’s a good idea to use a vacuum like Hygger’s Aquarium Gravel Cleaner (available on Amazon.com). It makes cleaning your pond or aquarium easier and faster.

Conclusion

Shrimp will not eat feces in an aquarium because it is not nutritious for them. So if you’ve been thinking of getting something to clean your aquarium, you might want to do it manually instead, as shrimp aren’t the best solution for getting rid of feces in your fish tank or aquarium.

Sources

How often and how much to feed shrimp

So, how often and how much to feed dwarf shrimp in the tank? This is one of the first questions new shrimp keepers usually ask. And while it may sound simple, the answer is anything but.

In fact, there are almost as many answers to this question as there are shrimp tanks. In general, the amount and frequency of feeding will depend on your tank setup, livestock, age of the shrimp, and size of the shrimp colony.

Each setup is unique and requires a different approach to feeding. The problem, however, is that these general explanations usually don’t help much, especially for someone new to the hobby.

Therefore, in this article you will learn how to find out how often and how much dwarf shrimp should be fed in the tank, how to prevent overfeeding, what food preferences shrimp have, what their natural habits are, and some other useful information.

The natural diet of dwarf shrimp

Before we get into the conversation, I would like to start with a general description of what dwarf shrimp eat in nature. This will help you better understand their dietary needs.

According to several studies, an analysis of the stomach contents of dwarf shrimp suggested that they are considered omnivorous scavengers. This means they can eat any organic matter that falls to the bottom of the tank. It can be any:

fish feed, shrimp feed, crab feed, flakes, pellets etc.,

Vegetables,

dying plants and leaves,

different types of algae,

tiny microorganisms that form a biofilm,

fish or snail waste,

dead snails, dead shrimp, dead fish, or others

debris of any kind.

As we can see, dwarf shrimp are detritivorous. They eat everything they come across in the tank. It makes them an amazing cleaning crew.

What dwarf shrimp prefer to eat

Now we know our shrimp have a wide variety of food choices, but do they have any food preferences to suit their tastes?

Well, yes they do!

Gut analysis showed that when given a choice, dwarf shrimp prefer to eat:

Detritus (93% found in shrimp intestines)

Algae (up to 65% in the shrimp gut)

Biofilm (30 to 85% in shrimp intestines)

How often do dwarf shrimp eat in nature

Shrimp are always eating. The digestive system of dwarf shrimp is fairly short and simple. It does not allow shrimp to store food, so they have to eat constantly.

In the aquarium you will always see them grazing somewhere, so ideally they need a constant food source. According to the study, some shrimp species can consume up to 51.0% of feed weight per body weight per day.

Does that mean you have to stay close to the tank and drop food every few hours? Of course not!

As I mentioned earlier, dwarf shrimp are excellent scavengers and are quite capable of finding food in aquariums that you didn’t even know existed. Although they eat continuously, shrimp are very small animals. In some cases, the amount of food you give your fish can match the amount of food your shrimp colony needs for a week or more. If we talk about hunger, they are super hardy. The results of the experiments showed that dwarf shrimp survived 7 days without food without any major problems. After 14 days of starvation, they had some negative changes in their health. However, once the shrimp started feeding, they restored everything within a few days.

Note: It makes shrimp the best aquatic pet when you need to go on vacation. You can also read the article 8 Tips for Shrimp Farming Holidays: it makes shrimp the best aquatic animal when you need to go on holiday. You can also read the article “”.

How often and how much to feed shrimp

Now that you have some background knowledge about the nature of shrimp, we have come to the most important questions of this article – how often and how much to feed dwarf shrimp in the tank.

The simple answer is usually the best explanation.

You can feed your shrimp as much and as often as you like as long as you DO NOT overfeed them!

Depending on the tank structure and how much natural food (algae and biofilm) is available, you can feed shrimp 1 to 5 times a week. The optimal dose is usually determined empirically. Based on the shrimp’s reaction, they should eat the food in 2-3 hours. Leftovers must be removed.

No experienced shrimp farmer will ever tell you exactly how much and how often to feed shrimp. No one takes responsibility for giving you the wrong answer which may cause problems for your tank. I’m talking about overfeeding.

Don’t think that overfeeding is no big deal. It is! In fact, overfeeding is one of the leading causes of death for dwarf shrimp.

Scutariella Japonica Planaria Vorticella Hydra, Ellobiopsidae or Green Fungus Uneaten food can quickly decompose and cause an outbreak of infections and parasites. If you overfeed your shrimp there is a very high chance that they will visit your tank one day.

Bladder snails, swamp snails Overfeeding can trigger an infestation with pest snails ().

Ammonia and nitrates are mainly caused by an excess of food and organic waste. Therefore, you need to check how much you are feeding the shrimp.

Don’t overfeed. This is a universal rule and affects all shrimp species. I cannot stress enough how important this rule is. Unfortunately, many novice shrimp farmers usually forget this or think that giving them a little extra is no big deal.

Don’t be afraid to underfeed shrimp! It’s much better than overfeeding.

This will prevent overfeeding in the shrimp tank

Overfeeding is a variable parameter. There are many processes going on in our aquarium every day and most of them affect how much you need to feed your shrimp. Let me give you some examples:

They cleaned the walls of the tank from the algae and vacuumed the substrate. This means shrimp have fewer things to eat, so they may need a little more processed food.

Snails, fish or shrimp died in the tank. More natural food for the shrimp, so less to feed.

You have decided to change the light timer from 8 hours to 9 hours. It will potentially increase algae growth. So shrimp need less food.

Biofilm You put almond leaves, cones, etc. in the tank a week ago. During this time, a forage develops, so the shrimp need less food.

After trimming, you removed some plants from the tank. This means less surface area is available for algae and biofilm growth. Therefore, shrimp may also need more feed, etc.

Basically, everything in the tank affects how much food your shrimp need. However, that doesn’t mean you have to be a rocket scientist to figure out all these things. No need.

The only thing to watch out for is your shrimp colony’s reaction to the food.

Feed shrimp as much as they can eat in a few hours (2-3 hours is more than enough). If some food is left over, this is a sign that there is too much food for the amount of shrimp you are keeping. Therefore, you can feed them less next time. On the other hand, if they eat everything in an hour, you can give them a little more next time.

Again, there are some useful tips that can help you.

feeding frequency. Consider your schedule

If you are new to the hobby and have no idea how often to feed shrimp. I would recommend starting with 5 days a week (Monday – Friday). Don’t feed them on weekends.

If you see shrimp not coming to the feed as quickly (and as many) as they used to, it simply means they are not very hungry. Therefore, you can change your schedule to, for example, 4 times a week: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.

Each shrimp farmer has their own feeding schedule. It can even be 2 or 3 times a week, it can be every day. The most important thing is that you need to understand what works for you. You have to find the balance. Therefore, be ready to change the routine if necessary.

food bowl

A great way to find out how much the shrimp are eating is to use a food bowl. It also helps you determine how much your shrimp will actually eat in a matter of hours.

A food bowl will also help prevent food spillage. This way you can see if you are overfeeding them.

Read more about this in my article “All About Shrimp Feeders”.

treats

GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies (link to check price on Amazon) are super tasty. Shrimp love them so much that they come to feast on them.

Stick it directly to the front of the jar and watch how fast they come. It will give an idea of ​​how hungry they might be. If shrimp don’t come out, there might be something wrong with the tank because shrimp lollipops are just too delicious to skip.

baby shrimp

It can be a bit more difficult to feed shrimp with small babies in the tank. When shrimp are small, they tend to stay in one spot where they can hide for several days. They do not venture outdoors and can only get close to airborne particles, algae or biofilm.

Shrimp cannot compete with adults for food and can starve to death fairly quickly.

So it’s a really good idea to feed them powdered food like Bacter AE (read more about it). All your baby shrimp are guaranteed to get their share. However, be very careful with Bacter AE, it is very easy to overfeed.

Read more about it in the article “How to increase shrimp survival rate?”.

berry female

When your tank is cyclical and mature you should have berry females. If you don’t have them, it’s a sign that something is wrong with your diet. You may need to feed them more or change them.

food variations

Sometimes people stick with one food product and give it all the time. Do not do that. Imagine eating the same food for months. Ideally you need to have at least 3 different types of products. It provides your shrimp with more vitamins and strengthens their immune system.

Indian almond flakes and alder cones in a shrimp tank.

How to properly blanch cucumbers and zucchini for shrimp, snails and fish.

Different types of shrimp

Some species of shrimp cannot eat things like shrimp pellets, flakes, pills, etc. For example, bamboo shrimp and vampire shrimp feed primarily on floating detrite particles by filtering from the water column with the cheliped setae.

So if you keep filter shrimp with common dwarf shrimp, I would personally focus on feeding filter feeders.

First of all, it is more important for filter feeders. Second, as I mentioned earlier, powdered food is great for all shrimp and shrimp anyway.

Feeding shrimp in a community tank

Feeding shrimp in a community tank can be a real problem. Fish are often quite aggressive eaters. In most cases, they will eat most shrimp food within minutes.

So if you need to feed shrimp in a community tank:

Use powdered foods.

add leaves.

Give them blanched vegetables.

nocturnal Feed them after dark. In nature are shrimp

I highly recommend reading my article How to Supplement Shrimp and Snails with Calcium. Don’t forget that calcium plays a big role in shrimp. Because of this.

Finally

There is a lot of confusion about how often dwarf shrimp should be fed. The more natural feeding areas you have in your tanks, the less you need to feed shrimp.

If you have a bare bottom aquarium with no decorations, plants, driftwood, etc., you will need to feed a lot more because natural food sources will not be enough. If your tank has lots of plants, leaves, driftwood, decorations, etc., your shrimp will have plenty of natural food in the tank. So you don’t have to feed them as often.

Find a schedule that works for you and your shrimp—then stick to it.

Related article:

References:

Well, I bought a fire shrimp about 3 weeks ago and it just hid in a small cave the whole time. I never went and never ate as far as I can tell. I postponed the rock work a bit to try and get him to come out, but he just drove into a hole in one of the rocks and I haven’t seen him since. I even wake up in the middle of the night to get some water and I take a look in the tank and it’s nowhere to be found. My question, is there a way to get him to come out and eat so he doesn’t starve? Or should I just leave him alone and it will be fine?

Ghost shrimp (also called glass shrimp) are easy to care for, cheap, and fun to look at.

This makes them a great addition to most freshwater aquariums.

Often used as a feeder, cleaner, or just for fun, in this guide I cover everything you need to know about housing these animals.

The overview: What are ghost shrimp?

Ghost shrimp are dwarf freshwater shrimp native to the southeastern United States. They are also called glass shrimp or grass shrimp.

There are several species sold under the name ghost shrimp, but most in the aquarium trade are Palaemonetes paludosus.

They are bred as live food for larger aquarium fish or as an ornamental species for the home aquarium.

What do ghost shrimp look like?

Ghost shrimp get their name because…well…they look like little translucent ghosts floating around in the tank.

This is going to sound strange, but the name and the way they swim always makes me think of the little ghosts that haunt you in Pac-Man.

Their bodies are so clear that it can be really difficult to see them against some backgrounds.

That’s kind of the point. It makes them harder for predators to see.

That’s a good thing for the ghost shrimp. I’m sure fish find ghost shrimp just as delicious as humans find their larger cousins ​​with Gulf shrimp.

Let’s break down their different parts:

1. antenna

Ghost shrimp have four antennae, one pair longer than the other.

Just like other insects, fish, and crustaceans, they use their antennae to navigate around objects, find food, communicate with each other, and sense water conditions.

2. Body segments

The anatomy of the ghost shrimp is very similar to that of other shrimp species.

Your body can be divided into two main parts, the cephalothorax and the abdomen.

The cephalothorax is the large, front part of the body. And don’t let the word intimidate you. All cephalothorax just means “head chest”.

The front of the cephalothorax comes to a point called the rostrum. This gives the head that distinctive look you usually associate with shrimp, lobster, and crayfish.

An eyestalk detaches on either side of the rostrum. Ghost shrimp can actually move their eye stalks so they can see their surroundings without moving their bodies.

This allows them to keep an eye on lurking predators without moving and revealing their position.

Behind the eyes is the carapace, a large section of carapace covering the rest of the cephalothorax.

This is where most of the shrimp’s organs are located, such as the heart, stomach and gills.

The shell is so transparent that you can actually see food being eaten and moving through the digestive system.

Kinda crass and yet kinda fascinating.

Five pairs of walking legs, called periopods, are located on the underside of the carapace. Shrimp use these to walk along the bottom or climb rocks and plants.

Two pairs of periopods also have tiny claws, like a lobster or crab, which the shrimp uses to put food in its mouth.

The next segment is the abdomen. This section is mainly occupied by the large muscles that work the tail. The reproductive organs and intestines also belong to this segment.

The belly is covered by seven overlapping shell plates. The overlapping panels make the belly flexible, allowing the shrimp to curl its tail.

Under the belly are five pairs of swimming legs, or pleopods, which the shrimp use to slide around in open water.

Female shrimp carry their eggs on the underside of their abdomens and constantly fan them out with the pleopods to give them oxygen.

The last abdominal plate reaches a sharp point called the telson. Four shell parts called uropods fan out from either side of it, forming the tail.

Shrimp use their tails to avoid predators. The tail curls quickly and the shrimp can fling itself backwards to escape.

3. Color range

Ghost shrimp don’t really have a wide range of colors. Their bodies are always almost completely clear.

If you look closely they are covered with small dark speckles, some greenish, some more brown.

How big are ghost shrimp?

Ghost shrimp stay pretty darn small, adults typically only growing to 1.5 inches in length. The absolute largest are 2 inches long.

Females tend to be slightly larger than males.

How long do ghost shrimp live?

These little guys don’t have a very long lifespan. They usually only live about a year.

If you buy ones meant for feeding big fish, they may not live long.

Most are wild caught and have a hard time transporting them. Food animals are generally not treated and housed in the same way as pet animals.

It’s a sad fact, but it’s true.

If you’re buying feeder shrimp to keep and raise, it’s a good idea to get a large group. That way, hopefully, you’ll become tough enough to survive and reproduce.

Ghost Shrimp Molting

All shrimp molt. Once its outer shell has hardened, it cannot grow any larger.

As the rest of the shrimp grows, the shell will become too small. You have to shed this old one for a new, larger one to replace it.

Most young dwarf shrimp molt almost weekly. Adults may be a month or more between molts. It all depends on how much they feed and grow.

It is difficult to say how often individual ghost shrimp molt, as they are usually kept in large groups.

So it’s hard to tell which ones have molted and which ones haven’t.

But skinning is always a good sign. This means your shrimp are healthy and growing.

The molting process

A day or two before molting, you may notice that the shrimp looks a little more opaque than usual.

This happens because the new layer of shell forms under the old one.

When the big day comes, the shrimp keep rolling their tails under their bodies, trying to loosen the old shell.

You can also see the shrimp move its legs a few times, trying to loosen those as well.

The shell splits where the tail meets the cephalothorax. The ghost shrimp will usually pull its front half out of the old shell and then very quickly flick backwards to free its tail.

Sometimes they do it so fast you’ll miss it entirely.

Melted or Dead? how to say

However, one thing about skinning can freak you out sometimes because the skinned shell looks like a dead shrimp in the tank.

And just to add to your concern, you might count ghost shrimp and find one missing.

This is because shrimp are really vulnerable after a molt. Your new shell will be soft for a few days. They do everything to hide during this time.

Luckily, it’s easy to tell a molt from a dead shrimp.

A melted shell still looks clear as if it were made of glass. Sometimes only half of the carapace is visible because the carapace splits between the cephalothorax and the tail.

A dead ghost shrimp no longer looks clear. Her body takes on a whitish-pink color. It almost looks like the shrimp have been cooked.

If you find a skinned clam, you can leave it in the tank. Shrimp often eat the old shell, which contains minerals that are really good for them.

Ghost Shrimp Care & Tank Requirements

Now that you know a little more about ghost shrimp, let’s go through the steps required to set up an aquarium.

What size tank is best for ghost shrimp?

Since ghost shrimp are so tiny, they don’t need a huge tank. You could hold a single shrimp in something as small as 2 gallons.

But if you want to keep a group (which I would recommend) it’s better to put them in a 5 gallon or larger bottle.

Remember, the larger the tank, the easier it is to control your water quality.

Filters for ghost shrimp

Ghost shrimp are actually pretty tough, otherwise they wouldn’t survive being caught and shipped all over the world.

So you don’t have to overdo it with your filtration. You can just use a filter designed for your tank size.

Ghost shrimp aren’t exactly crazy about a really strong current in the water. They can have a hard time swimming against it.

So don’t add a filter meant for 40 gallons in a small 10 gallon tank. The poor ghost shrimp would be glued to the bottom of the aquarium.

Undoubtedly, the best filter for a shrimp tank is a sponge filter. They don’t create a lot of crazy currents and are great mechanical and biological filters.

Also, shrimp cannot get stuck on/in them. You will even see that the shrimp are grazing on the sponge all the time.

You can use a standard hang-on-the-back or canister filter if you already have one.

But shrimp can get sucked into filter inlets, which are really powerful. Many, many people have opened up their filter to clean it and found shrimp in there chewing on filter dirt.

You can attach a sponge pre-filter to the inlet of your existing filter that will keep shrimp (especially babies!) safe.

A special mention for lids

It’s best to have a tight-fitting lid that has as few gaps as possible.

Shrimp are really good jumpers and have been known to land on the carpet.

So be sure to close any gaps in your lids as much as possible in case your shrimp decide to go for a walk.

Light up your Ghost Shrimp Tank

Here’s the thing about lighting and aquariums: it’s more for us than for the animals we keep.

Fish and shrimp really don’t have “lighting requirements”.

The lights are there so we can see the tank, not because our cattle have any solar receptors.

Many species tend to need shady places to retreat to. This helps them feel less stressed.

Ghost shrimp do well in bright or subdued lights. Just give them some little hiding holes so they can escape the light if they’re feeling shy.

If you have live plants in the tank (which the shrimp will love), tailor your lighting to what the plants need. The shrimp will hang out either way.

plants and decorations

Like I said before, shrimp like lots of hiding places. Being in a bare tank can be really stressful for them. Especially when they molt.

Make sure you give them plenty of places to hide. Rocks, artificial plants, driftwood, decorations with small caves, whatever you want to do.

Ghost shrimp will greatly appreciate a heavily planted tank. This gives them plenty of hiding places.

And they’ll happily chew plant matter as it breaks down.

Also, live plants help keep nitrates down in the tank, making the environment healthier.

substrate

Ghost shrimp do not actually need a special substrate. Gravel, sand or planted aquarium soil are fine.

You should choose your substrate based on the plants you are picking.

But you can see them better on a dark background.

A special mention: The nitrogen cycle

You want to make sure you don’t add ghost shrimp unless your tank has been properly cycled.

If you’re new to all this, you might think you just add water and then drop the fish in.

Sorry, but it’s a bit more complicated.

When fish and shrimp feed, they shed waste.

All the pee and poop will start to decompose in the tank and deposit ammonia (NH3). This is bad news as ammonia can build up and quickly stress or kill fish/invertebrates.

Fortunately, there are beneficial bacteria that will colonize a tank’s filters and substrate. One species turns ammonia into nitrite (NO2 -1), which is still very toxic. But then another species takes nitrite and turns it into the much less toxic nitrate (NO3-).

But the bacteria don’t just show up overnight. It can take weeks for the beneficial bacteria to move in and get to work.

This can mean that all living things in the tank are exposed to toxic ammonia and nitrites. This can easily stress and kill fish and invertebrates.

Ghost shrimp are not particularly sensitive. You can adapt to all sorts of conditions.

But at the same time, that doesn’t mean they’ll do well in a tank while it’s being driven.

Make sure your tank is completely flushed before adding ghost shrimp.

Our full guide to cycling your tank is here.

Pro tip: Taking the time to run a fishless cycle before adding livestock to a tank will yield better results. Patience pays off with healthy, happy fish.

Ideal water parameters for ghost shrimp

Ammonia and nitrite: 0

0 nitrate: <20ppm <20ppm Temperature: 65°-75°F (18.3°-23.8°C) Ghost shrimp can survive in temperatures as high as 80°F, but higher temperatures can cause molting problems and an increased chance of bacterial infection. 65°-75°F (18.3°-23.8°C) Ghost shrimp can survive in temperatures as high as 80°F, but higher temperatures can cause molting problems and an increased chance of bacterial infection. GH: 3-10 dGH (50-166.7ppm) 3-10 dGH (50-166.7ppm) KH: 3-15 dKH (53.6-268ppm) 3-15 dKH (53.6-268 ppm) pH: 7.0-8.0 Pro tip: most shrimp experts don't even use heaters in their tanks. You simply let the water acclimate to room temperature. Subtle temperature variations between day and night actually mimic the shrimp's natural habitat. Ghost shrimp can adapt to many different water conditions. But shrimp and other invertebrates need a source of calcium to form their shells. It's important to maintain a healthy GH so the shrimp always have a source of calcium to build their shells. Pro Tip: If you have soft water, you can add minerals with an additive like Seachem Equilibrium or Weco Wonder Shells. Offering calcium-rich foods like blanched spinach is also a big help. Tankmates for Ghost Shrimp Here's the thing, ghost shrimp are small and... delicious. Fish have a simple rule when it comes to roommates: if it fits in my mouth, it must be food. Big, aggressive fish will definitely eat these guys. Even smaller fish can molest a shrimp to death by pecking at it. And you can't really know what's going to happen next. For example, bettas are far too small to eat an adult ghost shrimp at once. But they could nibble on a ghost shrimp until it dies. It has also been reported that assassin slugs could kill and eat shrimp. Species you might mix with ghost shrimp: guppies Endler tetra Rosbaros Corydoras Otoclinus catfish Nerit slugs Mysterious snails Keep in mind that even small fish can pose a threat to ghost shrimp larvae. It's also not a good idea to mix ghost shrimp with other types of shrimp. They have been known to kill red cherry shrimp and other smaller species. Ghost Shrimp Diet & Feeding Ghost shrimp spend much of their day grazing on the algae and biofilm growing in the tank. You will see them constantly running around sifting through the substrate. Using a glass bowl for these guys is a good idea. Shrimp are messy eaters. Placing their food in a bowl will prevent small pieces from breaking off and sinking into the substrate. Ghost shrimp can be snappy with one another when it comes to food. It is better to use a larger feeding bowl so that less aggressive shrimp have space to eat. What do ghost shrimp eat? Ghost shrimp are omnivores, so they will eat almost anything. Some good foods are: flake food Feed pellets for shrimp clumps of algae Blanched vegetables such as spinach, romaine, cucumber or zucchini seaweed waffles bloodworms Leaves (Indian flaked almonds are a favorite) Spirulina Related Post: What Do Freshwater Shrimp Eat? How often should I feed ghost shrimp? Because ghost shrimp are constantly grazing on stuff in the tank, you don't really need to feed them much. If you have fish in the tank, they like to eat flake food that sinks to the bottom. If you have a large colony of ghost shrimp, feeding them daily is fine. Just make sure the shrimp eat everything within 4 hours and discard any uneaten food. If they leave a lot of food, give them less at a time. Or you can switch to feeding every other day. If you only have a few shrimp, you probably only need to feed them four times a week. Especially in a heavily planted tank where they can graze all day. You should always see the shrimp actively foraging for food within about 10 minutes of being dropped into the tank. If they don't try right away, they're not really hungry. Remove the food and give him a day or two to get hungry. Ghost shrimp as forage fish Ghost shrimp are a treat for big fish like Oscars or Jack Dempseys. But there's a catch. They really aren't that nutritious. Most ghost shrimp are wild caught and are generally not treated very well. Forage fish are really only as nutritious as the food they have ingested. So if they've been pushed around from place to place and fed lousy food, they're not such a good food source. The good news is that you can change that with gut loading. Load well Keep the shrimp in a separate tank for several weeks and feed them nutritious food. This can significantly increase their value as fish feed. Since ghost shrimp will eat almost anything, give them a food that contains all of the nutrients your fish need. After fattening them up for a few weeks, drop them into the tank and watch your fish go to town. I always enjoy watching my fish forage for live food. They're just so excited about it. Concerns about parasites You might worry that your fish will ingest parasites from live food. This is a legitimate concern, especially if you're feeding things like feeder goldfish or minnows. Ghost shrimp can carry nematodes in their guts. But the good news is that the nematodes that infect ghost shrimp don't seem able to infect fish. There are parasitic nematodes (Camallanus) that can infect fish. But they use copepods, tiny crustaceans, as intermediate hosts. Not shrimp. How to breed ghost shrimp Farming ghost shrimp can be difficult. When they hatch from their eggs, they are free-swimming larvae that are very vulnerable to fish and other shrimp. It is best to have a separate rearing tank. The rearing tank doesn't have to be fancy, a simple sponge filter is great. The sponge filter does not suck up tiny shrimp larvae. If you can swing it, live plants in the hatchery are great as they provide a food source for shrimp larvae. But they are not strictly necessary. Female ghost shrimp develop a green "saddle" on the underside of their tail. This is a group of eggs that the female is constantly fanning out with her webbed legs. The term for a female carrying eggs is "berry" because the small eggs look like small round fruits. They always looked more like grapes to me, but I wasn't consulted when the hobby settled on the term. Females with berries release pheromones that let males know they are ready. Males will zoom around until they find them and fertilize their eggs. Remove them from the main tank a few days after you see the female getting berries. Keep them in the rearing tank until the eggs hatch, usually a month. You can tell the eggs have hatched because they are no longer clustered under her belly. Then take the female out of the breeding tank and put her back in the main tank. That way she won't eat the babies. Shrimp larvae can be fed finely powdered spirulina or infusoria. Pro tip: you can cultivate your own infusoria. It's really easy and fun science project for kids. You can watch a video here. Shrimp larvae turn into tiny shrimp after about a week. They can then be fed like adult shrimp. Be careful not to overfeed. After about 5 weeks, the shrimp should be big enough to put in the main tank. Final thoughts on ghost shrimp care Ghost shrimp are really interesting creatures. I love their see-through bodies and non-stop antics. They are active, constantly scooping up the substrate or grazing along plants and driftwood. With them in the aquarium there is always something to see. They make a great addition to the cleaning crew in your aquarium or can even be the main attraction. You don't need a huge tank or an elaborate setup to enjoy these guys. A 5 gallon filter with a simple sponge filter will do. Raising ghost shrimp is a great way to have live food close at hand for predatory fish. With a little effort and the right setup, these guys can breed like crazy. Then you can always deliver delicious treats to your big fish. Whether for pets or feeders or both, I highly recommend these crazy little critters. Related posts:

After we published our article on keeping Amano shrimp and cherry shrimp together, we noticed a number of people reached out and said their Amano shrimp was gone.

People initially seemed to think their cherry shrimp might eat their amano shrimp, but we doubt that is the case and then after seeing other people asking why their amano shrimp went missing we decided to try this one Publish articles to help as many of our readers as possible.

Many people who initially think their Amano shrimp are gone will later find that their Amano shrimp were simply either hiding among the plants in the tank or the Amano shrimp dug into the bottom of the tank.

There are a large number of places where an average sized Amano shrimp can easily hide for long periods in most aquarium designs.

Keep in mind that many fish will end up eating shrimp in their tank that they find, with bottom-dwelling fish often being the most likely species of fish that your Amano shrimp will also find and eat.

Because of this, some of your amano shrimp may actually disappear because the fish in your tank ate them as a quick and easy snack.

We know more and more people are starting to just keep shrimp tanks and once you have your setup organized like this it is not possible due to a lack of fish so one of the points covered in our article below can be far more will probably.

Is it normal for amano shrimp to disappear?

It is normal for Amano shrimp to “disappear” in most tank designs, but they usually only disappear for a short time as Amano shrimp like to hide, especially when in a tank with fish.

Amano shrimp not only regularly bury themselves in the substrate of their tank, but also hide in fish skins that you have in your tank, as well as in stones, decorations or plants.

The vast majority of modern aquarium setups typically have a soft substrate and some type of plant, be it live or artificial, with many tanks also having rocks or decorations.

As tiny little Amano shrimp, averaging 2 inches long when fully grown, they can easily hide in a variety of places, often confusing the person who tends their aquarium as you may one day find large numbers of Amano shrimp and the next day there may only be a fraction of the shrimp on display.

The partially translucent body of an amino shrimp can also make them very difficult to see in some aquarium setups as they can hide from the substrate quickly and easily.

If your tank has a high or even moderate light intensity, this will make it easier for the Amano shrimp to hide from their substrate even though they are in full view.

Why have my amano shrimp disappeared?

The most common reason Amano shrimp disappear from your aquarium is because they are hiding in hard-to-find spots, burying themselves in the substrate, or the fish in the tank are eating the Amano shrimp.

Most of your Amano shrimp that seem to have disappeared are usually just hiding and reappearing a few days later.

One thing you can do to get your Amano shrimp out of hiding is to throw a treat in the tank to lure them out of hiding.

There are a number of foods that work well for this, but one of the most reliable is definitely shrimp lollipops, which most shrimp love to eat, making them willing to come out of hiding to grab a bite.

If you think the fish in your tank might eat your Amano shrimp, then it might be a good idea to set up a shrimp-only tank.

The lack of potential predators allows most shrimp to thrive and reproduce at a surprisingly high rate, allowing you to get shrimp from your shrimp-only tank into your main aquarium faster than the fish that eat them can make their way through them be able.

This provides an inexpensive, easy and reliable way to replace your shrimp, ensuring that the detretus, algae and discarded food in your main tanks are always eaten by shrimp, even if your fish love to eat your shrimp.

Digging amano shrimp?

Amano shrimp love to burrow and burrow, especially when they feel threatened in a heavily stocked tank with a lot of fish in the tank.

However, unlike other shrimp species, Amano shrimp do not tend to do much digging other than burrowing themselves or burrowing slightly under rocks or tank decorations in your aquarium.

We would surmise that the digging habits of Amano shrimp are the main reason that so many people who choose to keep Amano shrimp in their tank generally think their shrimp are gone.

If you look closely at your substrate, you will often see signs that it has been disturbed recently, or notice small bumps in the substrate where Amano shrimp antennae often protrude.

We’ve seen some people blame their Amano shrimp for any holes or tunnels in their aquarium substrate, but this is not common behavior for Amano shrimp.

It is more likely that the tunnels in the substrate are usually due to other species of shrimp as well as possible signs that you may have different types of worms in your aquarium.

However, depending on your aquarium setup, we strongly recommend that you do further research as some worm species can cause problems in your aquarium in the future.

Why are my amano shrimp hiding?

The most common reasons Amano shrimp hide are that the shrimp feel threatened by their aquarium mates, just want some space to themselves and are looking for new food sources.

There are some less common reasons why the Amano shrimp are hiding in your aquarium, but these are by far the most common reasons.

Often you will find your Amano shrimp exploring areas of the tank that also serve as good hiding places when looking for new food.

This is common in setups with a large number of rocks as the Amano shrimp are looking for new sources of fresh algae or detritus to eat.

If you are actively trying to breed your Amano shrimp in your aquarium and you have shrimp breeding tubes, it can be common for some Amano shrimp to hide in them even if they don’t mate.

This is surprisingly common and many people are often unaware that shrimp farming tubes are more of a home and source of cover for your shrimp than something used purely for mating.

Will amano shrimp jump out of their tank?

In rare situations, Amano shrimp can jump out of their tank and essentially “disappear”, with the most common cause of this being overpopulation of the shrimp in the tank.

This can be very common in a shrimp-only tank as aquariums are usually small and in the ideal situation Amano shrimp can breed rapidly, causing their population to grow rapidly.

This is why so many people who have a shrimp-only tank typically use it to farm their shrimp, only to then move them to their main tanks to use as working shrimp to eat algae, detritus and discarded fish food.

This is very common and is to regulate the population of your Amano shrimp in your shrimp-only tanks to prevent overpopulation and to prevent the shrimp from jumping out of their tank or out of the water.

Most healthy Amano shrimp will not usually exit the water and attempt to jump out of their tank, provided the water conditions are okay and they have enough food.

This is why this is so rarely the reason Amano shrimp disappear into their tank, and the reasons we’ve covered earlier in this article are far more likely in most situations.

Conclusion

That ends our article on why your Amano shrimp have disappeared from your tank. We hope we have been able to help you better identify the reasons behind your Amano shrimp disappearing per month, but you will usually find that they have only been hiding temporarily and that they will usually come out of hiding again after a number the day.