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Timing mark for a 327 – The 1947 – Present Chevrolet & GMC …
My book says the timing is set at 8 degrees BTC for a 327. When I got it it was set at 4 degrees AFT. It ran good and started good.
Source: 67-72chevytrucks.com
Date Published: 3/9/2022
View: 2354
Technical – 327 chevy timing | The H.A.M.B. – The Jalopy Journal
Have you checked the total timing? It should be somewhere around 34-36 degrees when the RPM’s are at 3000 or so. If its at say 8* initial (with …
Source: www.jalopyjournal.com
Date Published: 6/18/2021
View: 1890
62 327 – are the timing marks 1 or 2 degrees each?
C1 & C2 Corvettes – 62 327 – are the timing marks 1 or 2 degrees each? – On the timing chain cover, there is 0 and an A (assuming for …
Source: www.corvetteforum.com
Date Published: 9/25/2021
View: 4286
327 harmonic balancer | Team Camaro Tech
Turns out the harmonic balancer that is on there is from a 350 so the timing marks are off by 25 degrees or so.
Source: www.camaros.net
Date Published: 4/28/2021
View: 3703
Timing a 327 SBC | Chevy Tri Five Forum
When they moved the timing marks they changed to bolt on timing tabs. I understood at the time it was to help visibility in Camaro’s. If you don …
Source: www.trifive.com
Date Published: 6/20/2022
View: 4003
69 327 Timing Problem | El Camino Central Forum
If the timing marks are WAY off (and the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder), mark the correct timing mark on the harmonic balancer with a …
Source: www.elcaminocentral.com
Date Published: 10/17/2021
View: 5298
Setting sbc 327 timing – Third Generation F-Body Message …
All of these numbers assuming of course, that your timing marks are ACCURATE, which I would bet MONEY they’re not, not in your engine any more than they are on …
Source: www.thirdgen.org
Date Published: 10/18/2022
View: 237
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주제에 대한 기사 평가 327 timing marks
- Author: mike’s Garage
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- Date Published: 2017. 11. 21.
- Video Url link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZJVMi801XU
What should the timing be set at on a stock Chevy 350?
The timing can vary between 2 and 12 degrees BTDC, the recommended spark plugs are different and even the plug gaps vary. In most cases starting out with 12 degrees of initial advance is about right.
What was the highest horsepower 327?
For 1965, Chevrolet introduced the L79 327. Rated at 350 horsepower with its four-barrel carb, it was the highest performance 327 available with a hydraulic roller cam.
How much horsepower can you get out of a 327?
Rated at 375 hp, the fuel-injected 327 was a high-winding screamer, as satisfying to drive as any big-block. At the other end of the spectrum, the 327 was also offered at much more pedestrian power levels, as low as 210 hp (gross).
What should timing advance be at idle?
Most engines have between 5-20 degrees of ignition advance at idle. This is referred to as initial timing.
What rpm do you set timing at?
Lighter springs allow the advance to begin at a lower rpm. Heavier springs delay the onset and slow the rate of advance. A typical mechanical-advance curve might start advancing at 1,500 rpm and achieve full advance by 2,600 rpm.
Is a 327 rare?
The L74, 300hp 327s Chevy IIs totaled 319. Few knew these two 327 RPOs even existed. Both are ultra rare today. Either of these 327 engines in the Chevy II, Chevelle and big car could be had with an automatic or manual transmission-three- or four-speed.
How high can a 327 rev?
The bottom end of a stock 327 can be safely spun up to 6500 RPM if it is in good shape. A stock 327 with power pack heads and a stock cam will run out of breath above 5000 RPM. The power pack heads have small valves (1.72 intake &1. 50 exhaust), and a stock cam is designed to make power below 4500 RPM.
What is a Chevy 327 bored 30 over?
A 30 over 327 is 331.6; 60 over is 336.6.
Is a 5.3 Chevy engine a 327?
325 is close to the correct number. The 5.3L is not a 327 or even close to a 327.
Can you stroke a 327?
Yes you can. It has the same bore as a 350 so a 350 crank is easy but why not make it a 383 or 396 with a longer stroke.
How much horsepower does double hump heads add?
Stock “double hump” heads flow 202 cfm intake and 141 cfm on the exhaust. If you must maintain a stock looking port, consider our “Undercover Porting”. With our “Undercover Ported” they will flow 220-230 cfm intake and 165 cfm exhaust. This flow improvement will add 15 to 25 horsepower to your engine.
What is the firing order for a Chevy 327?
The firing order for Chevy Small Block V8 engines (265,283, 302, 327, 350, 400) is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
327 Chevy Engine Timing Setting Instructions
Identify the timing groove in the harmonic balancer. The timing marker, which is attached to the timing chain cover, sits about 1/4 of an inch above it. If you cannot see the groove, bump the starter over with the ignition. Do not start the engine. When you can see the groove, paint it with correction fluid. This will help you see the groove and the marks when the timing light flashes on them.
Chevrolet 350 Small-Block Crate Engine Timing Tips
A popular crate motor for repowering classic trucks on a budget is the 350 Chevrolet small-block, PN 10067353. This is a great engine with plenty of power at an affordable price.
For those who aren’t familiar with them, these Chevrolet Performance Goodwrench 5.7L/350 engines they have approximately 8.5:1 compression with a base horsepower rating of 195 and will make up to 260, depending on the induction system. These engines have four-bolt mains and the early style two-piece rear main seals. Camshaft specifications are 0.383-inch intake lift and 0.401 inch on the exhaust. Duration is 194 degrees on intake and 202 degrees on the exhaust at 0.050-inch lift with a 112-degree lobe separation. The cylinder heads are cast iron with 1.94-inch intake valves and 1.50-inch exhaust valves, 76cc combustion chambers, and seven-bolt-style exhaust flanges. These engines come with painted valve covers, oil pans, and timing covers and are drilled for both left- and righthand dipsticks.
Originally used in a number of Chevy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, and Buick cars, GMC trucks and El Caminos from 1971-85 tuning specs vary quite a bit by application. The timing can vary between 2 and 12 degrees BTDC, the recommended spark plugs are different and even the plug gaps vary.
In most cases starting out with 12 degrees of initial advance is about right. However, that may result too much total advance, which should be limited to around 36-37 degrees so the distributor’s advance curve may have to be altered. How that is done will depend on the distributor you use. Most aftermarket distributors come with instructions and springs, stop bushings, or limit straps to adjust the advance curve. Kits for the GM HEI are available from a variety of vendors.
For most street applications we recommend the use of a vacuum advance. In cruise conditions with high manifold vacuum the carburetor delivers a lean air/fuel ratio, under acceleration or a heavy load when the manifold vacuum drops, which activates the carburetor’s power system and the air/fuel ratio becomes richer. From an ignition standpoint a lean mixture burns slower than a rich mixture so in cruise conditions the timing should be advanced—that’s the job of the distributor’s vacuum unit, when vacuum is high timing it is advanced, when it drops below a preset point, the timing is retarded. With today’s fuel, a vacuum advance that adds around 10 degrees of timing when the manifold vacuum drops below 10 inches should be about right. Of course if you opt for fuel injection a computer and oxygen sensor will make the necessary adjustments.
As for plugs, GM recommends AC R44TS with 0.035-inch gap for points distributors or 0.045-inch for HEI systems.
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Like most GM distributors removing the rotor from this MSD distributor provides access to advance weights. (Sharp-eyed readers will spot that this is a Ford distributor.)
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Changing the tension of the springs can alter the advance curve of most distributors. Lighter springs allow the advance to come in earlier, or at lower rpm.
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Chevy Small-Block 327 Outputting 462 Horsepower
In a world of small-blocks where bigger is better, the 327 still gets a lot of respect. Compared to the original 265, the 327 was obviously larger and more powerful, but where the 327 fell short was after the introduction of the larger 350. The 350 had more torque and a production lifespan that endured for decades until the end of the Gen 1 SBC.
Despite being down on inches to the 350, the 327 Chevy still lays claim to the most powerful production conventional small-block ever produced, the L84. Rated at 375 hp, the fuel-injected 327 was a high-winding screamer, as satisfying to drive as any big-block. At the other end of the spectrum, the 327 was also offered at much more pedestrian power levels, as low as 210 hp (gross). Regardless of the original output, the 327 (like any small-block), is a solid foundation for a performance build up. Like many of you, we still love the 327 and wanted to do a quick buildup with one.
Loyal readers will remember that some time back, we included the 327 in our salute to the legendary small-blocks. Taking a look back through the pages of history, we built and tested a number of the most popular and powerful small-blocks from yesteryear, including the DZ302, the LT-1 350 and the L76 327. Those of you who didn’t catch the results can look online at superchevy.com—it makes for good reading.
The borrowed fuelie heads and expensive factory dual-plane, high-rise intake were all returned, but the upshot of all that testing was that we were left with a healthy 327 short- block just begging for upgrades. For those just tuning in, the short block used to simulate the 365hp L76, included a four-bolt block, a 3.25-inch (cast) crank and forged domed pistons that produced the requisite 11.0:1 compression ratio with 64cc chamber heads.
The idea behind this story is to provide a route for increased performance for 327 owners. The best way to demonstrate the merits of our modifications was to compare them to a known baseline. Given the vast number of different 327 configurations available over the years, it was difficult to pinpoint the ideal candidate. For this test, we simply relied on the L76 numbers generated previously for our legendary small-block series.
The 365hp 327 configuration served as a high water mark for factory motors, so our baseline motor was best case scenario. With the exception of the injected L84, every other factory 327 would start out producing less power than the L76, making the gains offered by our proposed modifications that much more impressive. Equipped with the legendary fuelie heads, hot Duntov cam and aluminum high-rise intake, you might think this combination would be tough to beat.
Well, time and technology have marched on since the introduction of the L76 and though it was certainly hot for its day, modern cams, intakes and (especially) cylinder heads offer huge power gains over their factory counterparts. Despite the 365hp rating offered by Chevy, run on the dyno, our L76 327 reproduction produced peak numbers of 353 hp and 368 lb-ft of torque.
As mentioned, our 327 featured domed pistons designed to produce a static compression ratio of 11.0:1. For our build we took full advantage of the elevated compression, but know that the heads, cam and intake package described here work equally well on any low-compression 327-equipped with flat-top pistons. The pistons will require valve reliefs to work with the Comp solid lifter cam.
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With a healthy short-block at our disposal, we set off to improve the power output by making changes to those components most responsible for power production, namely the heads, can and intake. As good as the factory components were back in the day, the new stuff is so much better. Off came the L76 heads, cam and intake, replaced by components from AFR, Comp Cams and Procomp Electronics. The key to the success of any build up is to make sure the components were all designed to produce power in the same rpm range. Only working together will they optimize power production. Miss with just one component and the combination will suffer.
We started off with the cylinder heads. Compared to modern heads, the original fuelie heads were both down on flow and up on weight. Chevy never successfully offered aluminum heads on any of the small-block motors back in the day, but they are certainly the hot ticket for performance now. Our heads came from AFR, and where the stock heads had trouble exceeding 210 cfm on the flow bench, the AFR heads flowed 100 cfm more. In fact, the exhaust ports of the heads flow more than the intake on the factory fuelie heads.
What the massive head flow did for our combination was allow us to produce exceptional power without resorting to wild (unstreetable) cam timing. The heads featured full CNC porting, a 2.08/1.60-inch valve package and 66cc combustion chambers to slightly lower the static compression ratio.
In addition to a significant drop in weight and tremendous flow, the aluminum heads also reduced the chance of harmful detonation. Capable of supporting over 600 hp in normally aspirated trim, our relatively mild 327 was not taking full advantage of what they had to offer. These heads were chosen as much for what the 327 might become in the future (think stroker) as its current configuration.
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Re: Timing mark for a 327 As mentioned above, first verify that the mark is exactly at top dead center. If you don’t have a piston stop, remove the #1 spark plug (I like to remove all of them so the engine is easier to turn), make sure the cylinder is on the compression stroke and all the way to the top of the travel.
The mark on the tab and h-balancer should align and rotor should point to the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. If any of those are not correct either the distributor is off, h-balancer is the wrong one, the outer ring has slipped or timing chain and gears not aligned properly. __________________
68 GMC 250/3 speed Saginaw p/b p/s
69 Chevy 350/350 currently in pieces still lookin for a cab
06 Trailblazer
I just want a vehicle that I can work on, that won’t talk to me, leave error msgs or keep track of how I drive…
Technical – 327 chevy timing
Don’t mean to hi jack,but I have a 390 Caddy engine—my centrifugal advance is only 12*–so to get total at say 32*,I would have to set initial at 20*,but the books say sat it at 5* which would only give me 17* total–any thoughts on this?
Click to expand…
are the timing marks 1 or 2 degrees each?
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To 62 327 – are the timing marks 1 or 2 degrees each?
They are two degrees each, with advance being on the passenger side or to the top as you look at the timing mark over the left fender. :auto:
On the timing chain cover, there is 0 and an A (assuming for Advance). The other hash marks are 1 or 2 degrees each?
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Setting sbc 327 timing
Re: Setting sbc 327 timing
Put down the light and forget about cap the vacuum and all that.
Then, give the engine the timing IT wants, not make up some random number in your head that YOU want. Odds are, they won’t be ANYWHERE NEAR the same. ASK it what it wants, not TELL IT what YOU want.
Of course, make sure your distributor is working right, and has an appropriate centrifugal (RPM) curve in it. “327” is not a factor. The fuel you run, the compression, and the cam (insofar as it affects actual cyl pressure at low speeds), are what matters.
Since you run gasoline, the engine will run best with about 36° of advance at full power and at the max torque RPM which should be somewhere in the 3000ish range for a typical street motor. It will probably run best with springs, weights, and weight cam in the dist, that give a low-RPM retard (aka “centrifugal advance”) of around 15 – 18°, with the retard starting at around 2800 RPM and reaching full retard just off idle, below your converter stall, maybe 1200 or so. Then you’ll want about 15° of vac adv on top of all that; the engine will probably appreciate it hooked up to full-time manifold vacuum rather than “ported”.
It REALLY helps to think of timing that way, i.e. as the thing you are trying to hit, is that magic 36° full-power high-RPM number, whatever it is exactly for YOUR engine combo. 99.999% of the time it will be between 34 and 38°, that being determined by how fast gasoline burns. Then as the RPMs decrease, your curve should back it off so that combustion continues to occur at the optimum time, which is, just reaching completion at or shortly after TDC. Obviously at low RPMs the burning process takes up less of the time of upward piston motion, which is why you typically want less advance at low RPMs.
Unfortunately that’s not how a mechanical distributor actually works, which is why even though that’s how THE ENGINE works, you have to set the dist up backwards to that; that is, start with “static” advance at idle, then add “centrifugal advance” as RPMs climb, reaching “total” advance at some point. But if you look at the description I just gave of the “ideal” curve, it means that you’ll want around 18° of “static” advance, a total of about 18° of added “centrifugal” advance as the RPMs increase, starting at around 1200 RPM and reaching a “total” of around 36° at about 3000 RPM or maybe a little earlier. Then of course when the engine is under very light load at high speeds (aka “cruising”) you want the addl 15° or so of “vacuum” (load-based) advance, to start the combustion process earlier when burning is very slow due to less cyl fill at cruise (throttle blades mostly closed, blocking the intake) and the leaner mixture at those times as well, all of which make combustion last that much longer, but you still want it reaching completion at or slightly after TDC.
All of these numbers assuming of course, that your timing marks are ACCURATE, which I would bet MONEY they’re not, not in your engine any more than they are on anybody else’s. The “mark” is on the OUTSIDE of the crank damper, on the inertia ring, which isn’t even CONNECTED to the crankshaft. It’s merely LOOSELY ASSOCIATED with the crank by way of a blob of spooge which is subject to all manner of failure. Yet another reason to put down “light”, don’t waste your time on “mark” and “tab”, and forget about “number” and “spec” and “book”, and just give the engine what it wants.
Give THE ENGINE what IT wants.
Remember, if I may paraphrase the wisdom of one of The Greatest Ones Ever in a completely unrelated field,
“If it RUNS good, it IS good”.
So simple. Don’t outsmart yourself unnecessarily.
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