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This is a chunk of Reef Beef Episode 28 about how to control montipora eating nudibranchs.
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Advice fighting Montipora Eating Nudibranches – Reef2Reef
The nudibranchs are clearly visible in the petri dish. My method of rding the corals of these little nastys is to suck the adults off the …
Source: www.reef2reef.com
Date Published: 6/1/2022
View: 900
Advice dealing with Montipora Eating Nudibranch’s (MEN)
Hi, I have the dreaded Monti eating nudis in my tank. They came in on a Monti … Advice dealing with Montipora Eating Nudibranch’s (MEN).
Source: www.ultimatereef.net
Date Published: 2/25/2021
View: 2679
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주제와 관련된 더 많은 사진을 참조하십시오 Controlling Montipora eating Nudibranchs. 댓글에서 더 많은 관련 이미지를 보거나 필요한 경우 더 많은 관련 기사를 볼 수 있습니다.
주제에 대한 기사 평가 montipora eating nudibranch
- Author: Reef Beef Podcast
- Views: 조회수 664회
- Likes: 좋아요 16개
- Date Published: 2021. 8. 18.
- Video Url link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OT-uAJsr30E
How do I get rid of Montipora eating nudibranchs?
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Display Tank + Dips
Another option, if the colonies are smaller, may be for the hobbyist to remove all Montipora from the display tank. The hobbyist would then place all removed Montipora into a quarantine tank for treatment, minus a sacrificial frag that stays in the display.
What fish will eat nudibranch?
Wrasses like the yellow coris, melanurus, and many others are also good predators of nudibranchs and other small pests.
What is eating my Montipora?
Jake Adams. Feb 5, 2020. Of all the corals pests that reef aquarists have to deal with, prevent, and remove, Montipora eating nudibranch is one of the most egregious and damaging.
Can you dip montipora?
Treating Montipora will require dipping them multiple times, which means removing them from your tank and putting them in a quarantine tank. The quarantine tank is important how you do not want to place them back in your tank after you dipped them.
Are nudibranch reef safe?
A wondeful little algae eating sea slug that is completely reef safe. They eat filamentous algae including Bryopsis species.
Will my fish eat my nudibranch?
Will fish eat Berghia nudibranchs? The majority of saltwater aquarium fish will not eat Berghia nudibranchs, but there are several species that will.
What will eat Berghia nudibranchs?
“Berghia Predators
Peppermint shrimp. Long nosed hawkfish. Wrasses (except Fairy wrasses). Camel shrimp.
Will wrasse eat nudibranch?
In the above paragraph I eluded to the fact that wrasses will eat free floating nudibranchs, however many wrasses make their living hunting small invertebrates on corals and reefs. This habit can be used to our advantage with the long term control and prevention of infestation of both ZEN, MEN and many other pests.
Will six line wrasse eat nudibranch?
The 6 line will eat the nudi’s. 6 lines are critter getters for sure.
Do nudibranchs eat coral?
Montipora Eating Nudibranchs feed on the tissue of corals from the Montipora and Anacropora genus. These nudibranchs can destroy large amounts of coral in a very short time. They can inflict damage quickly because they multiply at an astounding rate, and they store the nematocysts (stingers) of its ingested prey.
What pests eat Zoanthids?
Sea spiders are common predators on zoanthid corals. They may be hard to spot, some being as small as 0.04 inches in diameter. They will even crawl inside a closed polyp, making it very difficult to spot.
Do bristle worms eat Berghia nudibranch?
Bristle Worms – Bristle worms will not seek out Berghia Nudibranch to attack, they may however attack them in defense of their nest to protect their eggs. Our recommendation: Be careful when putting your Berghia into the tank, try to place them on higher rock.
Will hermit crabs eat Berghia nudibranch?
In main display I will have to worry about my fire shrimp, emerald crabs and hermit crabs eating them. Cleaner shrimp such as the scarlet and blood are fine with the Berghia. Hermits may be a concern, I do not have any in my tank at all so no worries for me.
Will Melanurus wrasse eat nudibranch?
And, as you might guess, a hungry Melanurus wrasse will eat the nudibranchs feeding on Montipora. They also target flatworms and parasitic pyramid snails.
Are nudibranchs poisonous to humans?
Despite the unsavory or toxic taste they can present to their non-human predators, most nudibranchs are harmless to humans, except those like Glaucus atlanticus which consumes nematocytes and so may consider you a predator and sting.
How many Berghia nudibranch do I need?
How many Berghia do I need? We recommend at least 8 Berghia per 100 gallons of water for a moderate Aiptasia problem (50-100 aiptasia per 100 gallons). Getting the right number of Berghia is important. You want to have enough Berghia in your saltwater aquarium so they can find each other to mate and lay eggs.
Do nudibranchs eat snails?
Nudibranchs get their colors from the food they eat. That means that these sea slugs come in every color imaginable! They eat anything they can find on the ocean floor. That includes algae, sea sponges, and corals.
Are nudibranchs endangered?
Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs and Treatment
Growing…growing…gone. Unfortunately, this is an all-too-common story in the reefkeeping hobby due to a pest aptly named for its favorite meal, the Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (Phestilla subodiosus). Although treatment of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs is historically challenging, this article covers several available options.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (M.E.N. – just kidding, I won’t use that acronym) are from the phylum Mollusc, class Gastropod, sub-class Opisthobranchia, order Nudibranchia. From there, they are of the suborder Aeolidina, superfamily Fionoidea, family Trinchesiidae, genus Phestilla, species subodiosus. Identification down to the species level was only accomplished as recently as 2021, although the hobby has been actively fighting them since at least the early 2000’s (Wang, et al., 2020).
How to Identify:
These nudibranchs are white in color and range in size from 1-3mm in length. The body is covered in cerata, which may store the nematocysts (stinging cells) of the coral to help protect them from predators. Shown in the picture is a single Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (circled in red) at the edge of a Montipora digitata coral.
The key to detection is to understand the life cycle of these nudibranchs. If there is only one nudibranch, it is capable of reproducing asexually. The adults lay tiny clusters of 3-20 eggs (Borneman, 2007) in crevices along the base of the coral (see image). As the eggs hatch, the juveniles immediately join the adults in eating the coral in a distinct jagged line along the base and edges. Reportedly, these nudibranchs can survive extended periods with no food source.
Back in grad school, I modeled the lifecycle of these nudibranchs and how various treatments worked on them. Unfortunately, the results were never promising once the nudibranchs established themselves in a mature tank. (Note: Sadly, I built this model with an educational license, and my files are “legacy file types” for the software. I have been unable to regain access to my work for either historical purposes or additional research.)
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment Options:
Treatment for the Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs comes in the forms of prevention, natural predators, chemical destruction, and manual removal.
Treatment Method 1: Prevention of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs:
Prevention lies in purchasing from a reputable dealer or hobbyist first and foremost. Chances are, if the person has had them before, that person will have them again. Next, the responsibility falls to the new owner of the coral in proper quarantine procedures (at least two months is recommended). Examination with a magnifying glass is recommended to help identify and remove eggs. However, the nudibranchs might have laid eggs in a hidden crevice. Since the eggs are laid at the base of the coral or on dead coral skeleton, some hobbyists chose to remove the coral from the base rock. Both remaining coral on the rock and base rock then dies. This is to help ensure that the eggs are not transferred.
Treatment Method 2: Controls for Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs
Some hobbyists have found certain natural predators will help control the nudibranchs. Unfortunately there are no known complete eradication measures available naturally. The wrasses generally known to eat most invertebrates will most likely also feed on the nudibranchs. It is important to keep in mind that as far as natural predators go, what works for one hobbyist may not work for another hobbyist, especially with wild creatures.
Treatment Method 3: Coral Dips for Montipora Eating Nudibranchs
The last method of eradication is by chemical means. Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. These adult Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (as pictured) were in a dip much longer than the coral colony could survive. Unfortunately, that is typically the case; however, there are a few less lethal options.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Iodine
Many hobbyists have found that an hour-long dip in iodine will kill most adult nudibranchs. However, this may cause undue stress to the host coral, especially if flow, pH, and temperature are not ideal in the dip.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Levamisole
Levamisole (a pig dewormer available at farm supply stores), has been used in a similar manner to the iodine dip, but with a higher fatality rate to the host coral. Levamisole paralyzes the nudibranchs so they can be removed more easily from the coral.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Potassium Permanganate
Another chemical method is potassium permanganate. The dip (50mg/l for 30-90 minutes – Borneman, 2007) has been shown to effectively destroy both the adults and the egg masses with moderate impact to the coral. After eradication on the corals, the main tank should be kept free of Montipora for approximately two months.
Like all chemicals, caution should be exercised when handling potassium permanganate. Using an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) to learn about the hazards of use and what protective gear is highly recommended. An MSDS for potassium permanganate suggests the use of eye protection, gloves, and respiratory protection as potassium permanganate can cause serious burns to the skin, nose, and throat.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Series of Dips + Manual Removal
Rather than trying to kill both adult nudibranchs and eggs, I attempt to just break the lifecycle by removing the adults so that they cannot reproduce. When I get any frags of Montipora, I perform my usual coral intake process. I perform an inspection, remove the plug/base/dead skeleton, perform dips with manual pest removal, and attach a new base. Then I place the coral into my quarantine tank, but it stays for an extended period (60 days rather than the typical 30 days).
Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I also dip all Montiporas daily the first week to aid in manual removal. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.
Various dips may work to stun the nudibranchs, and examples include CoralRx, Revive, and Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure. Again, here the goal is to simply aid manual removal by stunning the adults. If the adults are removed, the eggs will continue to hatch in the presence of food. Adults are then easily removed before they can reach maturation. In the lifecycle model mentioned above, this was the most successful approach when implemented correctly.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Display Tank + Dips
The worst challenge is a display tank with mature colonies infested with nudibranchs. My best advice is to consider the coral dip series described above (although large colonies may require buckets for treatments). Additionally, the hobbyist would have to kill any bases left attached to the rock along with unremovable encrusted Montipora colonies. Another option, if the colonies are smaller, may be for the hobbyist to remove all Montipora from the display tank. The hobbyist would then place all removed Montipora into a quarantine tank for treatment, minus a sacrificial frag that stays in the display. The hobbyist must then frequently replace that sacrificial frag so as to draw out the nudibranchs from the rockwork.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Other Dip Options
Hobbyists have used garlic and freshwater dips with nudibranch mortality but they also often report high coral mortality.
Conclusion:
Pests
It cannot be stressed enough all new livestock from fish to snails to corals should be quarantined before being added to your display tank. A quarantine period serves many purposes, including making sure your new livestock has recovered from shipping stress, is healthy and eating, and provides an opportunity to check for and remove any potential pest hitchhikers in a controlled environment. This can be a HUGE advantage over trying to eradicate pests once they get into your display tank. But how exactly do you go about this removal, and what sort of animals should you be worried about as pests? Below you will find some tips on dealing with pest animals. This is by no means a comprehensive list, but does cover many of the most common critters that may hitchhike into your tank.
Coral Handling & Pest Control Tips
Quarantine every animal before adding to your display tank, regardless of the source!
Carefully examine every animal and identify any pests.
Dipping corals can help reduce unwanted pests.
If you treat for pests please carefully read all product instructions and double check all dosing volumes before adding anything to your tank.
Be obsessive about checking all animals for pests and quarantine everything, dip and treat as needed.
PAY ATTENTION AND BE CAREFUL!!
When handling corals, dips, or medications it is extremely important that you use eye protection and gloves, and wash your hands well with soap after every handling. Many corals produce toxic chemicals that can affect you severely. Please be careful. Seek immediate medical care if you get any irritants in your eyes or ingest any. This is a 911 emergency situation so please take precautions and be serious about handling these animals and never allow children to handle corals. Palytoxin released by zoanthids and palythoas is extremely dangerous, please be careful! Corals and our tanks contain huge numbers of bacteria, some are very pathogenic. It is extremely important that you try to prevent any cuts and if you do experience a cut or puncture wash with soap immediately and use peroxide or another good antiseptic and seek professional medical assistance quickly. Minor cuts or punctures from sharp spiny critters in your tank can and do cause life threatening infections, treat them very seriously and seek medical attention! Folks have lost fingers and limbs and died from such infections so please be alert, serious, and attentive when handling corals and always treat any cuts very seriously!!
Montipora Eating Nudibranch Finally Have a Name: Phestilla subodiosus
Of all the corals pests that reef aquarists have to deal with, prevent, and remove, Montipora eating nudibranch is one of the most egregious and damaging. The reefing community has been trying to find a ‘final solution’ to eradicate these little bastards for decades and while we might have a silver bullet for killing them, at least today we have an official name for them.
Phestilla subodiosus was recently described as part of a study by Wang et. al. to more closely examine this dreaded aquarium coral pest, which actually has significant commercial impact now that Montipora is more intensively aquacultured and maricultured. The Monti eating nudi now known as Phestilla subodiosus is part of a genus of nudibranch that is commonly associated with corallivory, or coral predation.
The species in question was offered a range of Montipora, Acropora, and Porites corals hosts and was not found predating on any other group besides Montipora, although we have observed this species preying on Anacropora, causing mild damage to smooth Porites species, and more recently on Porites cylindrica. Thankfully it seems that this sort of cross-generic predation on corals other than Montipora is very rare and Phestilla subodiosus doesn’t reproduce as fast as when it feeds on its preferred coral host.
Although adult monti eating nudibranch are fairly easy to remove, using brushes, dips, or a waterpik, often times the eggs remain and can be hiding in the convoluted crevices of gnarly montipora species. Unfortunately, while the Montipora eating nudi was studied for a description we didn’t get any indication of how long it takes the eggs to hatch, how long it takes the nudis to become sexually mature, so we still don’t know how to interrupt the life cycle of this dreaded pest.
Perhaps one day we’ll discover a silver bullet to treat Phestilla subodiosus, a predator would be ideal but in the meantime be sure to examine, dip, and preferrably quarantine ALL your new coral acquisitions before placing them in a display reef aquarium.
Montipora Eating Nudibranchs
Introduction to Montipora Eating Nudibranchs:
Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are a type of aeolid nudibranchs which are known to feed on coral. It is important to keep these parasites out of our aquaria.
Montipora Eating Nudibranchs feed on the tissue of corals from the Montipora and Anacropora genus. These nudibranchs can destroy large amounts of coral in a very short time.
They can inflict damage quickly because they multiply at an astounding rate, and they store the nematocysts (stingers) of its ingested prey. Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are hard to get under control because of the rate of which the multiply.
What Montipora Eating Nudibranchs look like:
The white and frilly nudibranchs are small and grow to about 8 millimeters (1/3 of an inch) in length.
Typically Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are on the back side of a plating Montipora, notice how hard it is to distinguish between the Montipora Eating Nudibranch and the feather dusters.
Montipora Eating Nudibranchs like to hide in hard to find places, they particularly like the underside of plating Montipora and the base of Montipora sponges.
Life Cycle:
Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are thought to be asexual, not needing another nudibranch to reproduce. They lay about 100 eggs at a time, the eggs hatch in 36 to 96 hours. Once the eggs have hatched, they become full adults in less than a week. This makes them difficult to eliminate however, it makes them easier to spot in a quarantine tank.
Prevention:
A quarantine tank is the easiest way to prevent these ugly little reef critters from destroying your Montipora based reef tank. Ideally, Montipora corals should be left in quarantine for 3 months.
During the quarantine time, you should view the coral on a daily basis and watch for any white spots on the coral. Remember that Montipora Eating Nudibranchs like the underside of Montipora.
Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.
Treatment:
Treatment should be done in a quarantine tank.
Move the affected corals to a quarantine tank; the quarantine tank should have good light and water flow. Setup your quarantine tank, then take your coral out of the main tank and dip it in Coral Rx. While the coral is in CoralRx take a turkey baster, and blast the coral with the dip. Making sure it is getting in between the plates and in all the cracks of the coral. Do this for approximately 5 – 10 minutes. Remove coral and discard the coral dip. Do not reuse the coral dip as parasites may release toxins. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to a quarantine tank. Repeat every 4-8 days till no more nudibranchs are found.
Leave the coral in your quarantine system for an additional 3 months before moving back to your aquarium. Additionally, adding wrasses to your quarantine tank will also aid in the treatment of Montipora Eating Nudibranchs.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs and Treatment
Growing…growing…gone. Unfortunately, this is an all-too-common story in the reefkeeping hobby due to a pest aptly named for its favorite meal, the Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (Phestilla subodiosus). Although treatment of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs is historically challenging, this article covers several available options.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (M.E.N. – just kidding, I won’t use that acronym) are from the phylum Mollusc, class Gastropod, sub-class Opisthobranchia, order Nudibranchia. From there, they are of the suborder Aeolidina, superfamily Fionoidea, family Trinchesiidae, genus Phestilla, species subodiosus. Identification down to the species level was only accomplished as recently as 2021, although the hobby has been actively fighting them since at least the early 2000’s (Wang, et al., 2020).
How to Identify:
These nudibranchs are white in color and range in size from 1-3mm in length. The body is covered in cerata, which may store the nematocysts (stinging cells) of the coral to help protect them from predators. Shown in the picture is a single Montipora-Eating Nudibranch (circled in red) at the edge of a Montipora digitata coral.
The key to detection is to understand the life cycle of these nudibranchs. If there is only one nudibranch, it is capable of reproducing asexually. The adults lay tiny clusters of 3-20 eggs (Borneman, 2007) in crevices along the base of the coral (see image). As the eggs hatch, the juveniles immediately join the adults in eating the coral in a distinct jagged line along the base and edges. Reportedly, these nudibranchs can survive extended periods with no food source.
Back in grad school, I modeled the lifecycle of these nudibranchs and how various treatments worked on them. Unfortunately, the results were never promising once the nudibranchs established themselves in a mature tank. (Note: Sadly, I built this model with an educational license, and my files are “legacy file types” for the software. I have been unable to regain access to my work for either historical purposes or additional research.)
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment Options:
Treatment for the Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs comes in the forms of prevention, natural predators, chemical destruction, and manual removal.
Treatment Method 1: Prevention of Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs:
Prevention lies in purchasing from a reputable dealer or hobbyist first and foremost. Chances are, if the person has had them before, that person will have them again. Next, the responsibility falls to the new owner of the coral in proper quarantine procedures (at least two months is recommended). Examination with a magnifying glass is recommended to help identify and remove eggs. However, the nudibranchs might have laid eggs in a hidden crevice. Since the eggs are laid at the base of the coral or on dead coral skeleton, some hobbyists chose to remove the coral from the base rock. Both remaining coral on the rock and base rock then dies. This is to help ensure that the eggs are not transferred.
Treatment Method 2: Controls for Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs
Some hobbyists have found certain natural predators will help control the nudibranchs. Unfortunately there are no known complete eradication measures available naturally. The wrasses generally known to eat most invertebrates will most likely also feed on the nudibranchs. It is important to keep in mind that as far as natural predators go, what works for one hobbyist may not work for another hobbyist, especially with wild creatures.
Treatment Method 3: Coral Dips for Montipora Eating Nudibranchs
The last method of eradication is by chemical means. Coral dips often help stun the pests so they can be blown off gently with a pipette or powerhead. These adult Montipora-Eating Nudibranchs (as pictured) were in a dip much longer than the coral colony could survive. Unfortunately, that is typically the case; however, there are a few less lethal options.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Iodine
Many hobbyists have found that an hour-long dip in iodine will kill most adult nudibranchs. However, this may cause undue stress to the host coral, especially if flow, pH, and temperature are not ideal in the dip.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Levamisole
Levamisole (a pig dewormer available at farm supply stores), has been used in a similar manner to the iodine dip, but with a higher fatality rate to the host coral. Levamisole paralyzes the nudibranchs so they can be removed more easily from the coral.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Potassium Permanganate
Another chemical method is potassium permanganate. The dip (50mg/l for 30-90 minutes – Borneman, 2007) has been shown to effectively destroy both the adults and the egg masses with moderate impact to the coral. After eradication on the corals, the main tank should be kept free of Montipora for approximately two months.
Like all chemicals, caution should be exercised when handling potassium permanganate. Using an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) to learn about the hazards of use and what protective gear is highly recommended. An MSDS for potassium permanganate suggests the use of eye protection, gloves, and respiratory protection as potassium permanganate can cause serious burns to the skin, nose, and throat.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Series of Dips + Manual Removal
Rather than trying to kill both adult nudibranchs and eggs, I attempt to just break the lifecycle by removing the adults so that they cannot reproduce. When I get any frags of Montipora, I perform my usual coral intake process. I perform an inspection, remove the plug/base/dead skeleton, perform dips with manual pest removal, and attach a new base. Then I place the coral into my quarantine tank, but it stays for an extended period (60 days rather than the typical 30 days).
Since a succession of coral dips work for AEFW and red bugs, I also dip all Montiporas daily the first week to aid in manual removal. After that, I dip every other day the second week, every third day the third week, and then once a week for weeks four through six. I have not lost a single coral with this method, and it saves me the hassle of treating with different medications for different parasites at different times.
Various dips may work to stun the nudibranchs, and examples include CoralRx, Revive, and Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure. Again, here the goal is to simply aid manual removal by stunning the adults. If the adults are removed, the eggs will continue to hatch in the presence of food. Adults are then easily removed before they can reach maturation. In the lifecycle model mentioned above, this was the most successful approach when implemented correctly.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Display Tank + Dips
The worst challenge is a display tank with mature colonies infested with nudibranchs. My best advice is to consider the coral dip series described above (although large colonies may require buckets for treatments). Additionally, the hobbyist would have to kill any bases left attached to the rock along with unremovable encrusted Montipora colonies. Another option, if the colonies are smaller, may be for the hobbyist to remove all Montipora from the display tank. The hobbyist would then place all removed Montipora into a quarantine tank for treatment, minus a sacrificial frag that stays in the display. The hobbyist must then frequently replace that sacrificial frag so as to draw out the nudibranchs from the rockwork.
Montipora-Eating Nudibranch Treatment: Other Dip Options
Hobbyists have used garlic and freshwater dips with nudibranch mortality but they also often report high coral mortality.
Conclusion:
Montipora Eating Nudibranch Finally Have a Name: Phestilla subodiosus
Of all the corals pests that reef aquarists have to deal with, prevent, and remove, Montipora eating nudibranch is one of the most egregious and damaging. The reefing community has been trying to find a ‘final solution’ to eradicate these little bastards for decades and while we might have a silver bullet for killing them, at least today we have an official name for them.
Phestilla subodiosus was recently described as part of a study by Wang et. al. to more closely examine this dreaded aquarium coral pest, which actually has significant commercial impact now that Montipora is more intensively aquacultured and maricultured. The Monti eating nudi now known as Phestilla subodiosus is part of a genus of nudibranch that is commonly associated with corallivory, or coral predation.
The species in question was offered a range of Montipora, Acropora, and Porites corals hosts and was not found predating on any other group besides Montipora, although we have observed this species preying on Anacropora, causing mild damage to smooth Porites species, and more recently on Porites cylindrica. Thankfully it seems that this sort of cross-generic predation on corals other than Montipora is very rare and Phestilla subodiosus doesn’t reproduce as fast as when it feeds on its preferred coral host.
Although adult monti eating nudibranch are fairly easy to remove, using brushes, dips, or a waterpik, often times the eggs remain and can be hiding in the convoluted crevices of gnarly montipora species. Unfortunately, while the Montipora eating nudi was studied for a description we didn’t get any indication of how long it takes the eggs to hatch, how long it takes the nudis to become sexually mature, so we still don’t know how to interrupt the life cycle of this dreaded pest.
Perhaps one day we’ll discover a silver bullet to treat Phestilla subodiosus, a predator would be ideal but in the meantime be sure to examine, dip, and preferrably quarantine ALL your new coral acquisitions before placing them in a display reef aquarium.
Advice fighting Montipora Eating Nudibranches
They are persistent and hard to get rid of. Dips seem to kill hatched nudis, but not the eggs. General advice is to get montis off the rocks, closely monitor them, and dip / scrape eggs every few days (and pray that breaks the cycle).
Is it a foregone conclusion that whatever nudis are left will make it to the other side of the tank?
Are there any treatments that I maybe overlooked that are confirmed to work on the eggs?
Any other advice?
I’ve read through all the threads that I could find on this topic. To summarize what I’ve found:I first noticed the problem about a month ago. They had infested the base of a spongodes colony. I took the rock that they were attached to out of the tank, completely broke the colony off the rock and threw most of the colony away. I did however cut a few frags from the tips that were far away from where the nudibranch activity was, and put those frags on a frag rack.Since then, I found a few nudis on a pink polyp cap frag and one nudi on a Season’s Greetings frag that were nearby. I dipped those frags in Tropic Marine Pro-Coral Cure, super glued any cracks between the coral and the frag plug, then moved the frags to a frag rack on the opposite end of the tank.As a precautionary measure, I removed / dipped / glued the Undata and Stylo frags (opted to play it safe with the Stylo since their growth is similar to that of encrusting montis) that were on the same structure, but I found no evidence that the nudis had made it there yet. The only monti remaining on that rock structure is a Superman monti that the nudis seem to have been avoiding so far. I plan to break off what I can of that frag and epoxy putty over whatever I can’t get off the rock.40 gal breeder, bare bottom (glass), w/ 2 MP40s for flow (so strong flow throughout the tank). The rock is landscaped into three separate structures. There are two “pillars” on opposite ends of the tank that are suspended above the tank bottom by 1-1 1/2″ acrylic rods. In between the two pillars, there is a smaller “island”.There are ~12 different types of Montis in my tank. Most could still be considered frags or, at best, mini-colonies. I should also point out that I have a Six-Line Wrasse.Currently, the only evidence I’ve found of nudibranch activity is on the left-side pillar. None of the rock structures touch the tank walls, so to get from one end of the tank to the other the nudis would need either 1) to crawl down the rods and scoot across the glass floor (I suspect the powerheads would blow them away) or 2) “surf” through the tank and hope they land somewhere on the other side.On the other end of the tank, I have a few more montis, but the main one I am concerned about is a Leng Sy colony (~7 in across). I can see underneath the colony pretty well, and I haven’t seen any evidence that the nudis have made it over there.I am leaning strongly toward breaking everything off the montis on the right side pillar and dipping them just to be safe. I guess I am just hoping that someone will chime in and say they were able to get rid of them without going to that extreme.
Advice dealing with Montipora Eating Nudibranch’s (MEN)
Hi,
I have the dreaded Monti eating nudis in my tank. They came in on a Monti Cap frag that I dipped in Coral RX. I removed the adults and binned the frag as soon as I saw them. Tank has been doing well for 2 months since with montis encrusting well and fattening up but I noticed their work on several other monti frags a few nights ago. I have since removed about 15 adults from the 5 frags in the last 48hrs.
I have a coral QT set up so I was planning on fragging what I can (about a few cm above damaged tissue) and moving them to QT for a dipping routine (every 3-4 days over the next 21 days). I will then putty over any remaining bits of monti and leave the DT monti free for the next 6 months.
Is it worth trying to salvage these frags or should I just bin them and leave the tank fallow? Having watched the Tidal Gardens video on MEN (in which they dipped the frags 50 times to no avail) I am not sure whether I should even introduce the montis to the QT.
What are you thoughts? Bin them or try and salvage? All in all I’m only looking at losing £100 worth of coral. I think my four-line wrasse has been keeping them in check but she’s on the chubby side these days.
Also, I have heard that MEN can live without Montis for up to 3-4 months. Does anyone have any recommendations for a fallow period for these ****s?
Is this idea crazy? Starve montipora eating nudibranch by hanging from fishing line
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키워드에 대한 정보 montipora eating nudibranch
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