Acoustic Research Turntable Belt? All Answers

Advanced Member

group members

Posts: 877

Joined: 1 Jul 06

Member number: 473

Extended Member Group: MembersPosts: 877Joined: 1 Jul 06Member ID: 473

I thought this was nothing but a piece of rubber. Why wouldn’t a big rubber band work? Belt drive turntables literally spin with the help of a rubber belt. So I went through a 1/2 pound bag of different sized rubber bands I bought at a local office supply store and found several large bands and tried one on the turntable and to my surprise it worked. The speed seems very close and I detect almost no distortion and just a faint noise from the rubber band moving as it spins. It is fully masked when music is playing.

In today’s high tech and high tech era, a simple throwback to the past has helped my turntable stay connected to my PC. Cost?… Not nearly $14. Long live rubber bands and paperclips…

Put on …

Old against new

This post was edited by Roseman: Sep 1, 2008 1:11 am My belt drive turntable recently broke due to the belt becoming old and stretched. Once I saw what the problem was I went online to find a replacement belt. I found several sources that were the size my turntable needed, with prices ranging from $14 to $21. I thought this was nothing but a piece of rubber. Why wouldn’t a big rubber band work? Belt drive turntables literally spin with the help of a rubber belt. So I went through a 1/2 pound bag of different sized rubber bands I bought at a local office supply store and found several large bands and tried one on the turntable and to my surprise it worked. The speed seems very close and I detect almost no distortion and just a faint noise from the rubber band moving as it spins. It is fully masked when music is playing. In today’s high tech and cutting edge era, a simple throwback to the past helped my turntable stay connected to my PC. Cost?… Not nearly $14. Long live rubber bands and paperclips……

This post contains affiliate links.

Turntables (or vinyl record players, depending on how you think of them) are complicated machines. They’re not as easy to use as “press play” with your iPods, iPhones, and DVD players. Because of this, we came across the question of how tight a turntable belt should be.

The key to determining a turntable’s belt tension is balance. The grip must not be too tight that it interferes with the whole mechanism and creates too much friction, but not too loose that it doesn’t work at all.

In this article, let’s tighten our seat belts and learn how tight a platter belt should be and the processes to determine this.

What is a turntable belt anyway?

Before attempting to answer how tight a turntable should be, we should first learn to define what a turntable belt is. So really what is a turntable belt?

Turntable belts are essential parts of belt-driven turntables, but are not present on direct-drive turntables. The main difference between belt drive turntables and direct drive turntables is that belt drive turntables use platter belts as a method of rotating the platter. The direct drive ones use a motor to drive the coater instead, eliminating the need for belts. (1)

Turntable belts are essential parts of belt-driven turntables, but are not present on direct-drive turntables.

In a belt-driven turntable, the belts are required for the cartridge to navigate through the record, which ultimately helps the turntable read data and express it in the form of sound. If you use a belt-driven turntable, you know the added complexity of using such technology. One of the additional complexities is illustrated and summarized in the question of how dense a turntable should be.

Balance is key: how tight a turntable belt should be

Turntable belts are essential parts of belt-driven turntables, and ensuring their suitability is critical to better sound quality and more stable feedback. Despite its essentiality, many audiophiles still get bogged down in the “appropriateness” of their turntable belt. So we tried to ask ourselves the same question.

With questions like these, it’s quite difficult to define a quick and precise answer. However, we have specific guidelines to help answer how tight your turntable belt should be.

A key to understanding how the standard goes is to know that a platter belt is not balanced. Some turntable belts are thicker while others are thinner, so knowing this “balance” is crucial to overriding such disparate factors. As such, we have defined the general guidelines below.

Platter belts must not be so loose that they lose their grip, because a loose platter belt is no more valuable than a puff of air trying to lift a block of wood. In addition, you must also ensure that it is not over tightened as this risks interfering with the operation of your turntable. To determine proper tightness, make sure the turntable platter rotates evenly and smoothly, with no jerking or signs of tension. (2)

We mostly recommend having your platter belts tighter than loose. However, we always remind other audiophiles that a turntable belt that is too tight can damage your gear, so make sure you’re on the right track.

Speaking of damage, the stress caused by tight turntable belts greatly affects the mechanisms, the motor used to turn the belt or bearings, and more. In addition, it can cause your turntable to stall completely and repairs can cost you many times the belt’s original price. (2)

Size matters

We always remind our audiophiles to have a suitable belt diameter for their turntables. It can prevent extra stress on the turntable while reducing the possibility of loose installations.

There are five standard belt diameters to consider for your turntables. Make sure you have the right one. The standard diameters are the following: 128mm diameter belt, 150mm diameter belt, 172mm diameter belt, 206mm diameter belt and 300mm diameter belt.

So next time you look at some of the platter belt diameters available, be sure to constantly evaluate them against the general guidelines as this is how tight a platter belt should be.

Why do people still use belt driven turntables?

If you haven’t noticed, direct-drive turntables offer a much smoother, less clunky experience than belt-drive turntables, and therefore offer a more direct and easier-to-navigate experience. Because belt-driven turntables have significantly larger moving parts compared to the tiny motors of direct-drive turntables, many have wondered why belt-driven turntables even exist.

The price matters

As the direct drive turntables take a smaller approach to their technology implementation, it also bears the cost of miniaturization. Simply put, all this technology and all the engineering marvels required to make the package a little smaller and less clunky will obviously add to the cost of the overall product. For this reason, it is most obvious that the direct drive turntables are significantly more expensive than the belt drive turntables.

Other reasons besides the technology driving up the cost is the inherent cost of the belts compared to motors. Unlike the less complex belts, engines are intricate and complex mechanical components used in many machines today.

As with most audiophiles: it sounds better

The main reason many choose to buy belt drive turntables is of course the sound. For most audiophiles, sound quality should be one of the most important characteristics or variables of audio equipment. In the case of belt-drive and direct-drive turntables, simply put, audiophiles prefer the sound produced by belt-drive turntables. (3)

Why exactly do belt drive turntables sound better than direct drive turntables? The real answer: Engineering. By their very nature, motors are said to be much louder than belts, and for an audio device, any unnecessary noise is a big variable that can significantly affect sound quality. Unlike engines, belts run more smoothly, eliminating or at least mitigating excessive noise.

While the belt-driven turntables sound better, they still have a sense of chunkiness, as explained by the constant questioning, “How tight a turntable should be and more.” Speaking of chunky, that leads us straight to our next segment.

Where the direct drive turntables win

As previously mentioned, direct drive turntables and turntables are often much less clunky than their belt driven counterparts. However, these are not the only variables and features that direct drive turntables have significantly improved over their belt-driven predecessors.

Most DJs use direct drive turntables simply because it allows them to change where the turntables spin. It will allow them to achieve the signature DJ “scratching” sound. (3)

In addition, the smaller moving parts on these players also last longer than the belt on belt-driven turntables. In contrast to the more stable engines, belts are more likely to fail and at the same time require more frequent maintenance.

Frequently asked questions about turntable belts

How do I maintain the integrity of my belt driven platter belts?

To maintain the integrity of your turntable belts, always check them from time to time to ensure you are using the correct diameter and thickness. Also, we recommend everyone not to wait until the turntable belt is completely unusable before changing the belt.

How do I replace my turntable belt?

Replacing a turntable belt is not a mentally intense exercise, nor is it physically demanding. We recommend removing the rubber mat first as this will expose the belt. Then lift the plate.

The belt will then be completely exposed and we will have to replace it. Grab your new turntable belt and place it on the underside of the platter, lining it up with the inner circle. Slowly slide the platter upside down and place it back onto the platter, bringing back any parts removed.

How to Make Your Vinyl Records Long Lasting To view this video, please enable JavaScript and consider upgrading to a web browser that supports the HTML5 video “How to Make Your Vinyl Records Long Lasting”.

How often should I replace my belts?

We recommend replacing them every three to five years, depending on mileage.

Sources

VacationVinyl.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable websites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. We also participate in other affiliate programs that compensate us for referral traffic.

This post contains affiliate links.

Listen to your favorite record, relax as the sound thumps in your cans, and you hear the slip – the music slows down for a few seconds, then speeds up again. You turn to see if anyone has entered the room and been fumbling with your record player – but no one is around. Time for a new turntable belt. But how long should your turntable belt last?

Most belt-drive turntables use a rubber-based, closed-loop belt that typically lasts up to 5 years or so. Belt life is determined by its quality, tightness, elasticity and use. Without use, a belt will last 5-6 years under typical conditions.

Not only will I share my experience with turntable belts, but I will also share a few tips and tricks to better maintain your belt drive turntable. First, let’s look at all things belt-related so you can make the most informed decisions about your belt-drive turntable. Let’s get into that.

How long turntable belts last – Explains the lifespan of turntable belts

As previously mentioned, several factors affect the life and useful life of a turntable belt. While I personally prefer direct drive turntables (since I’m a bit of a turntablist), belt drive turntables work best for isolating motor noise. Most of the time when I listen to vinyl at home, it’s because of my belt drive.

Due to rubber degradation, most rubber based turntable belts last up to 5 years depending on quality, use and exposure to light, oxygen and heat.

The problem with belt drives is that most belts are usually made of rubber. Newer turntables use a variety of materials, but rubber has always been the mainstay of the turntable belt.

Rubber degrades over time. Rubber wear is primarily caused by light, oxygen (ozone) or heat and is inevitable. (Source)

Rubber does a few things over time and exposure to the elements:

Rubber dries and cracks. Rubber becomes brittle. Rubber loses elasticity. Rubber loses tensile strength.

Air, light and heat are factors that affect the degradation process of rubber. Rubber breaks down in two main ways: molecular chain hardening and molecular chain cleavage. These correspond to the embrittlement of the rubber or the softening of the rubber.

These two rubber degradations are responsible for the majority of belt failures over time. With turntables, it is usually the first problem – hardening and brittleness of the belt. However, as the belt softens, it stretches and causes slippage, another common problem with belt-drive tables.

Therefore, the overall life of a belt is determined by the type of rubber, the amount of exposure to light, oxygen and heat, and the frequency of use.

Working regularly with my belt drive turntable, I found that I had to change the belt after about three years. That’s when I noticed the sound starting to warble and mutate. At first it was quite imperceptible, but one day it became more obvious and I had to admit that the platter belt was beaten.

Factors affecting the quality (and lifespan) of the turntable belt

I mentioned how exposure to the elements would accelerate wear and deterioration of the belt. Eliminating some of these factors can contribute to longer platter belt life.

To slow rubber belt degradation, you must limit or eliminate exposure of the belt to light, oxygen, and heat.

Light is easy, don’t leave the turntable upside down in the sun – pretty easy. Heat is pretty straight forward too – don’t mount your turntable over a heater or near a heat source. That’s correct; You can’t have your record player next to the fireplace if you want it to last, sorry.

The hardest part is oxygen. How do you keep a turntable belt away from oxygen without launching it into space? There’s actually a pretty neat solution: treat the belt.

Now, I’ve heard a lot of arguments for using belt conditioners from both sides. However, I would like to point out that most of the time they were busy reviving an already stiff belt.

Once a belt becomes weathered, brittle, or stretched, you need to replace it. Do not attempt to revive a belt that has already expired. It’s a waste of time trying.

However, if you just got a new turntable or a new belt for your turntable, you can treat the belt right away to prolong its life.

Use products recommended for high performance car engine belts. These conditioners tend to be the best for maintaining high quality rubber belts.

Before spraying or wiping any automotive product, however, it’s a good idea to contact the manufacturer and determine belt material specifications before applying any belt conditioner. The newer turntables use different types of rubber and you don’t want to use a conditioner that will damage the belt, so do your research based on your particular model and year of manufacture.

How often should you replace your turntable belt

Rubber platter belts have an estimated lifespan of about five years maximum. However, there are some clues that can point you to an immediate belt change. Let’s take a look at what these factors are.

Extended Ramp-up Pitch and Time Stalls Slips

When you turn on your turntable and press start, you know it takes about a second to get up to speed, right? It is typical of belt drive turntables that this is the case due to the physics of using a belt drive. However, if you notice that it is taking longer than usual to get up to speed, the belt is probably stretched and trying to grab but not getting there in time.

Pitch and time delays can be more difficult to hear unless you have audiophile hearing. As a turntablist, I notice the tiniest pitch or time shifts in tracks that I know well, but you might miss them when they first start.

Pitch and time stalls occur when a turntable belt begins to stretch or become brittle. As it stretches, it loosens on the motor and platter pulleys, allowing backlash to lock momentum. As the belt becomes hard and brittle, hard spots can form where the belt does not rotate as easily around the small engine pulley. This situation will cause the belt to bind on the small pulley as the brittle point sticks out because it doesn’t want to bend around the pulley. It slows down the music for a second until the brittle spot above the little pulley pops.

Slips are the obvious sign that you should replace a belt. You can’t miss a note. You hear your music and there is a noticeable stopping or change in sound for a second or two. It’s a sure thing that you need a new belt when the old one starts slipping.

Should your belt be replaced with an OEM belt?

I’ve talked to a lot of people about turntables over the years. Most of the time it is about the direct drive or the newest and newest technology. But I’m also often asked whether a turntable belt should have the original manufactured replacement belt, or whether a generic belt with the exact dimensions is appropriate.

You can find out the answer to OEM platter belt replacement after asking a few questions.

Is the OEM belt still available? Is the non-OEM belt better quality than the OEM? Is the turntable good?

If you answered yes to question 1 and no to question 2, skip question 3 and buy the OEM model.

If you answered no to question 1, you have no choice, buy the aftermarket belt.

If the turntable is a cheap or low-quality variety, an aftermarket belt is likely better. In this case, too, the answer is obvious: always get the higher quality belt.

When I buy belts for my turntables, I follow one rule: I buy two and weld one of them together for later use. It’s a trick, a DJ friend of mine told me. He had an old Linn LP 12 but couldn’t find a replacement belt at the time. He found an old record store with some newer belts because the owner had sealed them and kept them in a box in his basement.

My friend bought two belts, put one on the table right away and put the other in a box. Four years later, he used the boxed replacement. It saved him years later from finding a second belt, and by shrink-wrapping the belt it was preserved for future use. I thought that was a pretty neat trick.

VacationVinyl.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable websites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. We also participate in other affiliate programs that compensate us for referral traffic.

We don’t like O-rings?

The manufactured ones (as opposed to the homemade ones made from superglue string) are generally well formed and seamless.

They also come in all shapes, sizes and flavors.

I was planning to do this for my table project, but if that’s a bad idea I’d like to know now!

PS since there are also square section o-rings this might be a better solution – this kind seems to be what is used on some tables…

Lifting straps are designed to help you maintain pressure around your core, but the key is getting just the right amount of tightness.

So how tight should a sling be? The tightness of a lifting belt can vary slightly depending on the exercise, but in general you should have about a finger’s width of space between the belt and your torso so it’s snug enough where you can feel it around your waist but still breathe comfortably.

While many wear their belt with a relatively constant tightness, sometimes you feel like you need to adjust based on the exercise you’re doing, how you’re feeling that day, or based on the type of belt you’re wearing wear.

In this article, I’ll go over factors that affect a belt’s tightness, how to determine your sweet spot, some mistakes to avoid, and some general guidelines based on different exercises.

Haven’t bought a belt yet? Start Here: Powerlifting vs. Weightlifting Belt: Which is Best?

Factors affecting the tightness of a belt

A belt offers a different level of tightness depending on the type of belt you use.

The straps that might feel the tightest or stiffest are thicker (13mm) and wider (4 inches) lever or tine straps compared to something like a nylon Velcro strap.

In addition to the material, how you close your belt becomes a factor in its tightness. For example, a Velcro strap isn’t limited by prong placement or lever position and can be tightened exactly where you want it for the day. In contrast, a spiked strap can sometimes be more difficult to attach, and a lever strap is limited to where you screw it in.

Since it can sometimes be difficult to get the tine strap into a tight position, the lever straps really shine by giving you consistent tightness from session to session. But with that comes the acceptance that you probably won’t adjust the tightness between lifts or workouts.

With lever belts, the tightness for the day is often determined by how much food or water you’ve consumed that day, as bloating definitely feels a bit different, which is something to keep in mind when exercising in the morning and evening.

Finally, leather belts can feel a lot tighter when you first buy them simply because they haven’t been broken in yet, but that will change over time.

Looking for more information on belt types and which ones are best for you? Cash:

How to determine the ideal belt tension

Finding the ideal belt tension requires learning how to put on a belt properly and practicing tightening it a few times.

First, take your belt and put it around your waist, being careful not to touch the bottom of your ribs or the top of your hip bone. Take a deep breath in your abdomen and then close the lever or prong and clip the belt in place, leaving some slack between your torso and your belt.

From here you should be able to exhale properly and extend your abdomen into the girdle without your exhale feeling shallow or without any visible space around your torso after the exhale. Try squeezing your core a few times as if you’re performing the lift you want and see if you can feel the walls of the belt enough.

If you’re still not sure, try loosening it slightly or tightening it slightly and feel the difference it makes. You should be able to feel that the looser it gets the less support it gives you, while the tighter it gets the harder it becomes to tense up since there isn’t enough room for your intra-abdominal pressure to expand your core.

Learn how to put on a weightlifting belt here: How do I put on a weightlifting belt? (Step by step)

Belt tension: 4 mistakes to avoid

These are some common mistakes you can make when deciding how tight to make your belt:

1. Wear the belt like a garment

If you don’t mind wearing your belt buckled between sets, it’s probably too loose.

The belt should not be worn like a garment or like a belt used to hold up your pants.

This is likely to occur if you don’t breathe in when you tighten the belt and instead just measure it using your resting waist measurement. Be sure to take a deep breath each time you put the belt on.

2. No room to breathe / brace up

When putting on your weight lifting belt, be careful not to tighten it as you breathe in, as you will need room to breathe out and fill the belt.

Therefore, you want to encircle the belt while your stomach is slightly relaxed and your breath is partially exhaled.

Otherwise, you won’t have enough space to create tension and strain, and may even narrow your diaphragm and potentially affect your ability to breathe.

3. Disregard bloating

While our egos can become emotionally attached to a particular setting on our belts, it’s important to be realistic with yourself and understand that your waist size can fluctuate significantly in a single day.

For those with prong or Velcro belts, adjust your setting based on your actual size on the day and not your “usual” spot.

For those with lever belts, you might have to suck it up unless you bring a screwdriver, but to mitigate this, try to match the time of day you go to the gym and eat the same foods before you work out.

4. Disregard digestive problems

While it’s important to have a snug-fitting belt, if you’ve already hit the gym and haven’t been feeling well, a belt that’s too tight can either lead to heartburn or indigestion, or make those things worse.

While your lifts are important, consider loosening your belt just a notch on days when you’re feeling down or when your reps are acidic. The extra squeezing isn’t good for your digestive tract in these situations.

Note: If this happens frequently, see a doctor to make sure nothing else is happening, as this can be a sign of a hernia.

How tight should a squat sling be?

Squats are one of those exercises where most people like the belt on the tighter side of things.

However, this can differ from person to person. One reason it feels tighter is that most people prefer to wear the belt a little lower on the torso, towards the hip bones and away from the ribs, when doing squats.

For this reason, you should see how far your belly expands when you’re at the bottom of the squat, because if it’s too tight, you can lose tension in the hole as your belly expands.

Related Article: Should You Wear a Belt for Squats and Deadlifts?

How tight should a deadlift sling be?

Deadlifts are a little different than squats, and most lifters like a slightly looser fit. This is partly due to the hinged nature of the lift and having it super tight in this position can feel really awkward.

Also for this reason, many lifters prefer to deadlift their belt higher, below the chest and closer to the natural waist.

Read this article to learn how to retract a sling (5 methods)

How tight should a bench press sling be?

Wearing a belt on the bench press is not a very common practice in powerlifting, some do it due to the restrictive nature of creating an arch. However, some lifters still wear it, and the bench press allows you to go pretty tight because the upper body isn’t folded or flexed

Related Article: Should You Wear a Weightlifting Belt When Benching (8 Benefits)

How Tight Should a Snatch Sling Be?

The snatch is a very dynamic movement, so you might want to go for a slightly looser fit than a heavy squat just to allow for more breathing and different positions.

You should also opt for a nylon belt so the buckle doesn’t get in the way, meaning you have more flexibility to adjust the tightness setting based on your comfort.

How Tight Should a Clean & Jerk Sling Be?

A clean and jerk is a very dynamic move like the snatch; However, it requires you to essentially bend the weight forward, and it puts more direct stress on the spine as compared to the snatch. Therefore, you should be a little firmer on a clean and jerk than you would on a squat, but ultimately it will vary from person to person.

Final Thoughts

A belt should be comfortable enough to breathe and strain, but uncomfortable enough that you can’t wear it during your rest period between sets.

While it’s intended to provide a rigid wall of support and not be worn casually, it shouldn’t interfere with your respiratory or digestive systems either.

Looking for a powerlifting belt? Check out: Best Powerlifting Belt: In-Depth Guide and Review (2022)

About the author

Elena Popadic

Elena Popadic has been in the fitness industry for over 6 years, co-hosts the Squats and Thoughts podcast, and trains and competes as a powerlifter. She has a BSc in Life Sciences from McMaster University, a Postgrad Certificate in Public Relations from Humber College and is currently completing an MSc in Occupational Therapy from Western University. Connect with her on Instagram or LinkedIn.

uh oh

It seems that JavaScript is deactivated in your browser. To take full advantage of Sony.com, please change your settings to allow JavaScript.

Easy Guide To Measuring V-Belts Replacing fan belts annually is a wise investment to ensure they are operating at peak performance. Worn fan belts can cause up to 20% loss of cfm output.

Ordering the correct replacement V-belt is just as easy by taking a few simple measurements.

First, measure the width of the belt to determine what type of belt is on your fan. Most V-belts are Type A, 1/2″ gauge. If the V-belt measures 5/8″, it is classified as a Type B belt. You may see a belt described as Type AX. The X means it has a serrated design or notches in the belt. The serrated profile increases power transfer and is typically only used for industrial applications due to its higher cost.

Next you need to measure the length of the belt. Use a cloth tape measure (not steel tape) and wrap it around the outside of the belt. They also use thin string to take this measurement and place it on a steel band to get the correct length.

Next, for “A” belts (1/2 inch width), subtract two inches from the outside dimension to select the correct V-belt. For example, if the outside measurement is 48 inches and you subtract two inches, the correct belt for your fan would be HSA46.

For “B” belts (5/8″ width), subtract 3″ from outside dimension to select correct V-belt. For example, if the outside measurement is 48 inches and you subtract three inches, the correct belt for your fan would be HSB45.

Hog Slat’s GroBelts range offers manufacturers the highest quality V-belts at an affordable price. GroBelts are made of wear-resistant, high modulus compression rubber embedded with polyester cords to reduce stretch. To order, go to GroBelts.

See also our Laser Pully Alignment Kit. It’s a great tool for accurately checking drive pulley alignment while changing fan belts.