Aluminum Vs Wood Screen Printing Frames? 300 Most Correct Answers

What is screen printing? a step-by-step guide

Screen printing involves forcing ink through a stenciled screen to create a printed design. It’s a popular technique used across a number of different industries. So even if you’ve never heard of the term before, chances are you’ve worn or used a screen-printed product at some point without even realizing it. The process is sometimes referred to as screen printing or screen printing, but all of these names refer to the same basic method.

Screen printing is an effective technique for creating eye-catching canvases, posters, and artwork, but the method can also be used to print on fabrics and textiles, making it great for creating all kinds of custom clothing and products. In this guide we cover all your screen printing questions including:

What is screen printing?

Screen printing involves transferring a stencil design onto a flat surface using a mesh screen, ink and a squeegee. Fabric and paper are the most commonly screen printed surfaces, but with special inks it is also possible to print on wood, metal, plastic and even glass. The basic method is to create a stencil on a fine mesh screen and then press ink (or paint in the case of artwork and posters) through to create an imprint of your design on the underlying surface.

The process is sometimes referred to as “screen printing” or “silkscreen printing,” and while the actual printing process is always fairly similar, the way the stencil is created can vary depending on the materials used. Various stencil techniques include:

Use masking tape or vinyl to cover desired areas of the screen.

Paint the stencil onto the mesh using “screen blockers” such as glue or paint.

A stencil is made with a light-sensitive emulsion, which is then developed in a manner similar to a photograph.

Designs created using the screen printing technique can use only one shade or multiple. For multicolored items, the colors must be applied in individual layers, using separate stencils for each colour.

Why is screen printing used?

One of the reasons the screen printing technique is so widespread is that it produces vibrant colors even on darker fabrics. The ink or paint also lies in layers on the surface of the fabric or paper, giving the print a pleasant feel.

The technique is also preferred because it allows the printer to easily reproduce a design multiple times. Since the same stencil can be used to replicate a design over and over again, it is very useful for making multiple copies of the same garment or accessory. This makes screen printing a very efficient technique for producing large quantities of custom clothing for sports teams or work uniforms.

When executed with professional equipment by an experienced printer, even intricate multicolored designs can be created. While the complexity of the process means that the number of colors the printer can use is limited, it allows for more intense coloring than is possible with digital printing alone.

The screen printing process step by step

There are different methods of screen printing, but they all involve the same basic technique. The printing form, which we will talk about below, uses a special light-reactive emulsion to create a custom stencil; This is typically the most popular type of commercial printing due to the ability to create intricate stencils.

Here we guide you step by step through the screen printing process. We have also put together a video of the process that takes place in our workshop so you can see how we make our high quality custom printed clothing.

Step 1: The design is created To begin, the printer takes the design he wants to create on the finished product and prints it onto a transparent acetate film. This will be used to create the stencil. Step 2: The screen is prepared Next, the printer selects a screen that matches the complexity of the design and the texture of the fabric to be printed. The mesh screen is then coated with a layer of photoreactive emulsion that hardens when exposed to bright light. Step 3: The emulsion is exposed The acetate sheet with the design is then placed on the emulsion coated screen and exposed to a very bright light. The light hardens the emulsion, leaving the parts of the screen covered by the design in liquid form. If the final design is to contain more than one color, a separate screen must be used to apply each layer of ink. In order to create multicolored products, the printer must use their skills to lay out each stencil and align them perfectly to ensure the final design is seamless. Step 4: The emulsion is washed away, creating the stencil. After the screen has been exposed for a period of time, the areas of the screen not covered by the design have hardened. The uncured emulsion is then carefully rinsed off. This leaves a clear imprint of the design on the screen for the ink to pass through. The screen is then dried and the printer makes any necessary touch-ups or corrections to match the print as closely as possible to the original design. The template is now ready to use. Step 5: The article is prepared for printing The screen is then placed on the printing press. The object or garment to be printed is placed flat on the printing plate under the screen. There are a number of different printing machines, including manual and automatic types, but most modern commercial printers use an automatic rotary carousel printer as this allows several different screens to be used at the same time. For multi-colored prints, the individual color layers can also be applied quickly one after the other with such a printer. Step 6: The ink is pressed through the screen onto the article. The screen is lowered onto the printing table. Ink is added at the top of the screen and a squeegee is used to draw the ink down the full length of the screen. This forces the ink through the open areas of the stencil and prints the design onto the product underneath. When the printer creates multiple items, the screen is raised and a new garment is placed on the printing plate. The process is then repeated. When all items are printed and the stencil has served its purpose, the emulsion is removed with a special washing liquid so that the screen can be reused to make new stencils. Step 7: The product is dried, checked and finished The printed product then goes through a dryer, which ‘cures’ the ink and produces a smooth, colour-fast finish. The final product is inspected and thoroughly washed to remove any residue before being passed on to its new owner.

A Guide to Screen Printing Equipment

To get a clean, crisp print, a screen printer needs to have the right tools for the job. Here we talk about each screen printing device including the function it performs during the printing process.

Screen Printing Press While it is possible to screen print using just a screen and squeegee, most printers prefer to use a press because it allows them to print many items more efficiently. This is because the press holds the screen in place between prints, making it easier for the user to swap out the printed paper or clothing. There are three types of presses: manual, semi-automatic and automatic. Manual presses are hand operated which means they are quite labor intensive. Semi-automated presses are partially mechanized but still require human input to swap out the items being pressed, while automatic presses are fully automated and require little to no input. Businesses that need to print items in bulk typically use a semi-automatic or fully-automated printing press, as it allows for faster, more efficient printing and minimizes errors. Smaller businesses or those who do screen printing as a hobby may find that a manual bench press (sometimes referred to as a “hand bench” press) is better suited to their needs. The Inks The ink, pigment or paint is forced through the mesh and onto the object to be printed, transferring a colored replica of the stencil design to the product. Choosing an ink is about much more than just choosing a color. There are many specialty inks that can be used to create different effects on the finished product. For example, a printer can use glitter inks, textured inks, or puff inks (which expand to create a raised surface) to create a unique look or feel. The printer also takes into account the type of screen printing material, as some inks work better on certain materials than others. When printing on clothing, printers use a type of ink that becomes machine washable once it’s heat treated and cured. This creates a colorfast, durable item that can be worn over and over again. Screen printing Screen printing in screen printing is a metal or wooden frame over which a fine-meshed fabric is stretched. Traditionally, this mesh was made from silk threads, but these days it has been replaced by polyester fabrics that offer the same performance at a lower price. The thickness and thread count of the fabric can be chosen to match the texture of the surface or fabric being printed, with smaller spacing between threads allowing for more detail in the print. After the screen has been coated with emulsion and exposed, it can be used as a stencil. After the screen printing process is completed, it can be washed and reused. The Squeegee A squeegee is a rubber blade attached to a long wooden, metal, or plastic handle. It is used to force the ink through the mesh and onto the surface to be printed. The printer usually chooses a squeegee that is a similar size to the frame of the screen as this gives better coverage. A firmer rubber blade is better for printing intricate designs with lots of detail, as it ensures all nooks and crannies in the stencil receive an even coat of ink. When printing less detailed designs or when printing onto fabric, a softer, more forgiving squeegee is often used. The washing station The screens must be washed after use to remove all traces of emulsion so that they can be reused for future prints. Some larger printers may use large tubs of special cleaning fluid or acid to remove the emulsion, while other printers simply use a water tub or sink and power hose to clean their screens.

Will screen printing ink wash out?

When a garment has been screen printed by a trained professional using a heat treated, washable ink, the design should not wash out. To ensure a colourfast finish, the printer must ensure that the ink is set according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. The correct drying temperature and time will vary depending on the type of ink and fabric used, so the printer must follow the instructions closely if they want to produce a durable, washable item.

What is the difference between screen printing and digital printing?

Direct to Garment (DTG) digital printing uses a specialized fabric printer – a bit like an inkjet computer printer – to transfer an image directly onto a garment. It differs from screen printing in that a digital printer is used to transfer the design directly onto the fabric. Because there is no stencil, multiple colors can be applied at once rather than in separate layers, meaning this technique is often used to print intricate or very colorful designs.

Very little setup is required as opposed to screen printing, meaning digital printing is a more cost-effective option for printing small batches of garments or one-off items. And because it uses a computerized image instead of a stencil, it’s great for creating photographic or highly detailed designs. However, because the colors are printed with CMYK-style dots of color rather than solid blocks of ink, it doesn’t offer quite the same color richness as screen printing. You can’t create textured effects with a digital printer either.

What is the difference between screen printing and heat transfer?

Heat transfer printing is the term for any type of printing that uses heat to bond a design to a fabric. The design is printed onto a material coated with heat-reactive adhesive called transfer or sublimation paper. When a heat press is applied to the transfer paper, the adhesive reacts to the heat and adheres to the surface of the underlying fabric, creating a printed textile.

Heat transfer printing is simple and inexpensive, making it great for smaller batches of personalized printing. It can also be used to transfer detailed photographic designs, which screen printing cannot do. Digital transfer printing can also be used to get great results on items such as bags, hats or shoes that can be difficult to screen print due to their awkward shape.

It is also possible to combine the heat transfer process with digital techniques to get the best of both worlds. With digital heat transfer printing, a design is created using computer software and printed onto white transfer paper. The design is then cut out using a machine called a plotter, which follows a digital contour to produce accurate results. The finished transfer image is placed at the desired location on the garment or accessory and then heat treated to bond it to the fabric.

If there is one downside to heat transfer printing, it’s that quality can vary drastically depending on the materials used, and certain printers that use inferior materials and inferior techniques have given it a bad rap in recent years. But as long as a good transfer material is used and the design is carefully applied, the resulting garment will be a high quality, long lasting piece. All of our digitally printed garments are made using high quality, soft to the touch transfer materials, applied using state of the art printers and plotters, so we are confident that we offer some of the best digital prints on the market.

The history of screen printing

Screen printing is an ancient art form. An early version of the technique was first developed in China around 950 AD as a method of printing patterns onto fabric. A few centuries later, Japanese craftsmen adopted the practice of transferring designs onto paper and fabric by forcing ink through a screen woven from human hair with a stiff brush.

Screen printing came to Europe in the 18th century but was slow to gain acceptance as a fabric printing method due to the high cost of silk fabric at the time. After the Silk Road made imported silk more affordable, screen printing gradually became a popular – and profitable – method of printing on fabric. By the early 20th century, printers had developed light-sensitized emulsions that allowed craftsmen to create complex stencil designs much more easily.

In the 1930s, artists began experimenting with screen printing as an artistic medium, naming their newfound form “screen printing” to distinguish it from industrial printing. In the 1960s, artists such as Eduardo Paolozzi and Andy Warhol used screen printing to create art. Dubbed “Pop Art,” the artist used screen printing to create multiple copies of a single image, essentially questioning what constitutes fine art. Warhol’s famous Marilyn Diptych is perhaps the best-known example of screenprinting as an artistic form.

Today, screen printing is used both as an artistic medium and as a commercial printing process. A stencil can be used to reproduce the same design hundreds – or even thousands – of times, so it’s a brilliant technique for producing large orders of bespoke clothing.

So there you have it: a complete guide to the ins and outs of the screen printing process. Here at Custom Planet, all of our printers are professionally trained to deliver the best results, so you can be assured that our service is the best on the market. We use world-class equipment to create custom designs on a wide range of apparel including t-shirts, hoodies and sweatshirts. So take a look around and see what personalized items you could create today.

If you need more help finding the right promotional items for your business, sports team or band, read our helpful guides to learn more.

Return to our main How To page.

Posted Aug 26, 2012 – 5:25pm

Try Goo Gone, Krud Kutter, or similar glue removers. Screening is usually color and this will soften it. I usually soak a folded paper towel, place it over the glue/paint/lube, then seal with cling film. After 20 minutes, the softened material can be wiped off without abrasion. If the anodized part has seen a lot of sun, it may have faded and once removed, the screen may leave a “shadow”.

Mmmm Not even close. Tried it and the screenprint laughed at me. Then tried soaking it in acetone. no-go Then the big guns pulled out: brake cleaner. All I managed to do was remove the grease and make the anodizing look beautiful. I think this stuff is photo etched or laser engraved and then baked. A quick web search reveals that there is no way to remove this stuff without damaging the anodizing. The only partial solution is a black felt-tip pen. Oh well. One thing I picked up from today’s exercise, a pristine looking focuser!

Plywood is ubiquitous in the construction industry – in fact, it’s almost synonymous with building. In addition to its importance in the construction industry, however, plywood has now also found use in the photographic and screen printing industries. Plywood can be used as a medium for printing on anything from the size of a photograph to large signs. The methods of making these plywood signs (or images) can be as simple as using the typical t-shirt screen printing press to transfer an image from a thin film over a gel to a large printing press where the plywood acts almost like a piece of paper in a typical office inkjet printer. All three methods lead to a wonderful result on a stable and durable plate.

Choosing a note

As with any woodworking project, the finished product depends entirely on the surface preparation. If you want a crisp image on your plywood, you should probably start with plywood that is rated at least “A” (AA is even better). Plywood is given a letter designation, much like grades in school – C and D plywood is visually unattractive and is best used in construction where appearance is not important. A grade plywood is commonly used for fine furniture projects and is suitable for screen printing. Baltic birch plywood is best for screen printing as it is almost (but not quite) white. Even A-grade requires some surface preparation prior to plywood screen printing. If you want to create a rough, rustic, or worn plywood print, you can use rough or unpolished wood. Just make sure the wood is a consistent color, no knots, and a clear grain.

Ribbons

If you want a sharper, well-defined image, you’ll need to sand the plywood before printing. Start with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper and work your way up to 400 grit. Sanding to 120 or 150 leaves a rougher surface and allows the ink to bleed a bit into the wood pores; this can be advantageous and/or desirable. If you’re looking for a sharp, clear image, sanding with 320/400 grit will give you a glassy smooth finish. Alternatively, if you do not want to sand the surface, you can apply 2-3 coats of a sealer and smooth it out between coats. This avoids going through multiple grades of sandpaper and also minimizes dust. After preparing the surface, make sure it is free of dust, sanding residue, or dirt.

screen printing

Once the surface is prepared, you can choose the screen mesh that matches your desired level of detail. The process of screen printing is fairly simple and has been around for years – a quick internet search will turn up several tutorials. Screen printing on wood usually only uses one color, but click here for a good method for multi-color screen printing. This method was used for a poster and can easily be adapted for thin plywood (e.g. 6mm Baltic birch) to create stunning images.

Image printed on plywood

There are other methods of printing on plywood. A common method is to transfer an image that has been pre-printed by an inkjet printer onto tracing paper. Tracing paper has a rough side and a smooth side (make sure you print on the rough side). After the plywood has been properly prepared, several steps are required to transfer the image from the tracing paper to the plywood. Coat the surface with a transfer gel first, make sure the layer is quite thick. Once the surface is coated, line up the edges of the plywood and the picture paper – duct tape works well.

Then match the tracing paper to the gel – making sure the rough side is facing down. Remove any air bubbles that form during registration, a roller will help remove them. The registration step transfers the image to the gel. Image transfer is fast, so you have to be really careful to print high quality images. Wait a few minutes, then remove the image from the plywood. You now have a nice photoset in your plywood base. Let this dry for a few days and apply a UV resistant top coat. Hang up and enjoy!

Printing on MDF and plywood

You think it, we print it!

Both MDF and plywood offer an inexpensive way to create a display compared to real wood. MDF is made from bonded wood fibers and plywood made from several thin layers of wood veneer.

Digital printing or screen printing?

Both MDF and plywood can be either digitally or screen printed and then further processed to create unique pieces that are strong, smooth and durable. Digital printing on plywood creates a great natural look where the real wood grain shows through. If required we can also add a spot white print which again really helps to add another eye catching element to your printed design.

completion

Our range of finishing technologies also allows us to create some fantastic shapes and three dimensional designs that, when combined with high quality digital printing, really push the boundaries of your imagination. We also have fully automated nesting software which ensures we always maximize the yield from a sheet of material, especially when cutting bespoke lettering and custom waistband shapes in multiple pieces.

Features and Benefits of MDF/Plywood Printing

Continuous

Strong

Cohesive – will not split

Flexible

forms well

dimensional stability

Superior resistance to warping

cost efficient

Would you like to print on MDF or plywood? Request a quote or contact us.

Screen printing mesh plays an important role in everyday life, be it in the production of circuit boards in phones or logos on the various products. In order to deliver quality products, screenprint designers need to determine the best specification for transferring designs.

But what stitch count should you use?

WS Tyler has been supplying premium stainless steel screen printing mesh for several decades and is here to help you use the best mesh specification possible.

This article provides an insight into what screen printing is, what stainless steel screen printing mesh is, how to choose the right mesh count and the disadvantages of not using the right mesh count.

What is screen printing?

Screen printing is a centuries-old technique that involves transferring ink onto a surface to create a specific design. To ensure accuracy, an emulsion is poured into a mesh screen, forming a stencil that prevents ink from reaching areas outside of the design.

While silk was the first screening medium of choice, today nylon and stainless steel are considered the standard. This article focuses on stainless steel mesh.

What is Stainless Steel Screen Printing Mesh?

Stainless steel wire mesh is best described as multiple individual stainless steel wires braided together to form a roll or sheet of wire mesh. When weaving the net, wire diameter, opening size, mesh count, width and length are predetermined and adjustable.

But what sets stainless steel apart from other screen materials?

Compared to other materials, stainless steel wire mesh offers several advantages including tensioning capabilities, durability, cost savings, and color distribution accuracy.

For a detailed breakdown of all the benefits that stainless steel offers to the screen printing industry, see our article: Wire Mesh for Screen Printing (Benefits, Alternatives and Costs).

Choosing the right mesh count

In general, mesh counts from 25 mesh to 305 mesh are ideal for screen printing. Stitch count is the number of openings within one inch in each direction.

This means that a 305 mesh screen is much finer than a 25 mesh screen.

Regardless of the screen material, the mesh count depends on the level of detail in the design. The colors/materials used to blend the design with the surface also affect the choice of mesh count.

For comparison, let’s assume you produce printed circuit boards for smartphones. Screen printing helps apply a solder mask that protects the internal alloys when solder is applied to the board.

The circuit board traces must be accurate to avoid short circuits or product failures. To ensure best results, a finer mesh size, 160 to 200, is ideal when applying the solder mask.

Let’s say you are screen printing sans serif fonts and shapes onto a ceramic surface. These design elements don’t have much detail and are transferrable with a 60 to 110 mesh screen.

So what are mesh counts of 200+ used for?

Well, the fine mesh counts are specifically used for highly detailed designs. However, they should only be used when a minimal amount of ink is needed to represent the desired look.

What are the disadvantages of using the wrong mesh count?

As with any extrusion operation or particle analysis process, the mesh count you use for screen printing is critical. However, if you don’t use the correct mesh count, it can affect the ink’s ability to render the design.

When it comes to ink usage, some inks are thick, while water-based inks tend to be thin and runny.

Using too fine a mesh count (160-305) with thicker inks can prevent the ink from seeping through the mesh and result in a patched design. Using a mesh count that is not fine enough (25-110) with a water-based liquid ink can cause too much ink to flow, making it difficult to cure.

Additionally, when working on a highly detailed design, using mesh sizes that are too large can result in ink bleeding and loss of detail.

Now, for branding purposes, screen printing sometimes requires the use of enhancing pigments such as glitter. If this is the case, you’ll want to make sure you’re using a mesh count that’s low enough to allow those pigments to flow through the mesh.

Using too fine a mesh count for such applications can result in mesh clogging. This hinders the paint’s ability to adhere to the surface.

How does cost affect mesh count selection?

Several factors influence the price of a screen printing mesh. These factors include stitch count, manufacturing requirements, and stitch count.

However, the mesh count is the biggest cost factor. Because setting up a loom is a labor-intensive process.

With finer mesh counts, this process can even take several days.

In other words, the finer the mesh count, the higher the price. Generally, a stainless steel screen printing mesh costs around $3 to $15 per square foot.

You should always use the lowest possible number of meshes.

Enhance your design production with stainless steel screen printing mesh

Screen printing is a traditional method of transferring a desired design onto a surface through the use of different inks. Silk was first used to make screen-printed fabrics, but designers have turned to alternative materials.

Materials such as stainless steel are now the standard as they are more robust.

With mesh counts ranging from 25 to 305 mesh, screen printing mesh specifications are determined based on the delta level required and the materials used.

For applications that require precision and high detail, a fine mesh count of 160+ is the ideal solution. If the application uses design elements that are not very detailed, lower mesh counts of 25 to 110 are ideal.

Regardless of the task, you should always use the lowest possible mesh count to ensure your operation is as efficient as possible.

Having worked in the screen printing world for several decades, we are here to help you construct the perfect stainless steel screen printing mesh for your business.

For more information on the different types of screen printing mesh, visit our screen printing mesh product page.

Exposing a screen and finding the right exposure times without the right knowledge can be a frustrating experience. Most new screen printers do not understand the various variables that change the amount of time a screen should be exposed. Here are some tips to help you get the exposure times right.

3 variables affecting your screen exposure time.

1. Mesh Count. Using a 110 mesh screen will retain more emulsion in the mesh than a 305 mesh screen. Smaller mesh screens have larger mesh openings – they hold more emulsion – the exposure time is longer than larger mesh screens. So if there is more emulsion, the exposure time for a 110 will be slightly longer than for a 305.

2. Emulsion. There are basic types of emulsions, and each has different exposure requirements. The 3 emulsion types are Photopolymer, Diazo and Dual Cure. Dual Cure emulsions are the easiest emulsions to use for new screen printers. The “window” of exposure is the most forgiving of all three emulsion types. Photopolymer is the fastest exposing emulsion – but the window is also the smallest, meaning the error tolerance for this type of emulsion is very low. Diazo Emulsion is the last option, which usually has an exposure window comparable to Dual Cure.

3. Light source of the exposure unit. Using a professional LED exposure device puts out more light evenly than using a floodlight from a local hardware store. But that doesn’t mean you can’t use floodlights to illuminate your screens. There are variables to consider with your light source such as: B. the strength of your light bulbs. Over time, your light source can lose strength, so you can increase your exposure time as your bulbs age. LED light sources are known to last up to 3-5 years without losing strength in the light bulbs.

I would definitely recommend a vacuum blanket with your exposure unit as well. A vacuum blanket pulls the screen mesh down and holds it firmly against the film positive to increase the resolution of your stencils.

These are just 3 variables affecting your screen and stencil making steps when exposing screens. A few other variables are mesh color and halftone lpi count. I’ve heard yellow mesh exposes better than white mesh because white mesh lets light bounce around and affects the exposure process, yellow mesh helps capture the light, reducing the amount of light bouncing around the mesh and undercutting caused.

Regardless of the emulsion, mesh count, mesh color, and light source you use to expose your screens, I would definitely recommend an exposure calculator to help you set your screen exposure time.

Different mesh counts are used for different applications in the screen printing process. What is mesh count? Well, mesh count is a measure of how many threads of polyester (silk centuries ago, hence “screen printing”) cross per square inch of screen. For example, a 110 mesh screen would have 110 threads crossing per square inch. The higher the mesh count, the finer the holes in the screen.

FACTORS THAT DETERMINE WHICH MESH COUNT YOU USE

The first factor to consider when choosing a mesh size is how detailed your image is. For example, your image has an extreme amount of detail, a low mesh screen just wouldn’t hold the detail. The fine lines or dots in the image would just fall through the holes in the mesh, leaving you with a poor representation of your image. If you have an image with little detail and use too high a mesh count, you will run into problems because you won’t get enough ink to put it on the shirt.

The other important factor to consider would be the thickness of your ink itself. Thinner inks, such as Water-based inks, for example, generally require a higher mesh count. If too low a mesh count is used, the thin ink can potentially flow through the larger holes and saturate your garment with more ink than intended. Flooding your garment would blur your image as the ink will bleed. On the other hand, if you try to print with a thicker ink, such as B. plastisols or white inks, you should consider lower mesh counts. Too high a mesh count can cause an issue with inks not wanting to get through the meshes easily, which can cause opacity and coverage issues.

COUNTING DIFFERENT STITCHES AND WHAT THEY MEAN

You will find that different companies have different sizes available. If the stitch counts are fairly close together, such as For example, if the difference is 155 vs 156, 196 vs 200, or 81 vs 86, the difference is so negligible that it doesn’t matter in your final results. As there are many variables in screen printing, we cannot tell you exactly which mesh sizes are used for which applications. However, we can give you a general idea of ​​what sizes to use for specific types of printing.

STANDARD MESH SIZES

110 STITCHES

The two most common mesh sizes are 110 and 156. A mesh count of 110 lays down a fairly thick layer of ink. This mesh is great for block text letters and larger spot color designs. It’s also a recommended mesh for your substrate, as you only have to do one pass, which speeds up production. 156 mesh applies a moderate amount of ink but provides more detail to your image.

156 STITCHES

LOW MACHINE COUNTS

38 STITCHES

There are mesh counts less than 110 and they are most commonly used for specialty printing. The main place you will see lower mesh counts is for glitter and shimmer inks. These inks are specially made to contain glitter flakes to achieve the desired look. These flakes can get caught in the mesh of your sieve if your mesh count is too high and none of it gets on the shirt itself. Glitter inks have larger, more noticeable flakes, while shimmer inks have smaller particles to create a more subtle look. A 36 mesh is ideal for glitter inks, although you can go as high as 64 mesh. 86 mesh is recommended for shimmer.

86 STITCHES

HIGH MACHINE NUMBERS

230 STITCHES

Higher mesh screens, 200 mesh and above, are most commonly used for images with finer detail and thinner inks. Graphic, etching and water colors should be printed through screens of this mesh size. The higher mesh count prevents the thinner inks from flowing onto your substrate. If you want your plastisol prints to have a softer feel, these higher mesh counts can also help. By printing the thicker ink through the finer mesh, much less of it is applied, allowing for a thinner sheet of ink. The result is a softer feeling of pressure. While your plastisol prints will feel softer, you can sacrifice ink opacity by using a higher mesh count. If you want your design to have very bright, vibrant colors, be aware of how much ink your screen will let you print.

305 STITCHES

At the high end of the scale you have a 305 mesh. This size is used for jobs with the highest level of detail and fine halftone four color and simulated process prints. Fine halftone dots require very high mesh counts to hold and expose properly. Otherwise, as mentioned earlier, the halftones and lines will just fall through the mesh, leaving you with a less than desirable image to work with.

Mesh counts over 305, such as 355, 380, and 400, are mainly used for graphic printing with UV inks. UV inks are extremely thin and are often used for detailed printing on signs, banners or CDs. By using a larger mesh size, the automatic printers used in UV printing can regulate the amount of ink that passes through the screen.

THIN THREAD VS. STANDARD THREAD

Hi-DRO, or thin filament, has long been the standard for water-based ink printing. Its thinner filament profile and wider dimensional orifices allow water-based inks to flow through easily. Printers experience fewer screen clogs compared to standard meshes. A thin thread braid allows you to maintain and print with a higher level of detail. Emulsion and ink are not retained because the filaments take up less space. In recent years more and more shops have tended to use Hi-DRO for their plastisol prints, especially their base prints.

Hi-TEX or standard fabric has a thicker thread compared to Hi-DRO. The Hi-TEX has been the workhorse of the plastisol textile industry for decades. The threads can withstand high tension and are more resistant to tearing and bursting during the press compared to thin thread braids.

WHITE VS. YELLOW NET

You may have noticed that some screens have yellow mesh while others have white mesh. Why is that?

White mesh allows the emulsion to expose faster. However, the white thread causes the light to be scattered, which can lead to a loss of detail or blurred image edges. Because lower mesh counts require a thicker emulsion coating, they usually have white meshes to speed up the exposure process.

Yellow mesh causes little to no light scattering, so the details of the image are preserved. The downside is that the exposure takes 30% longer.

Types of screen frames

WOOD FRAME

Wooden screens are an affordable solution for screenprinting beginners and for printers looking to create permanent or long-term designs in their screens. For the longest possible lifespan, wooden screens should be cleaned with pressure washing and limited washing in the sink. Do not use in plunge pools.

ALUMINUM FRAME

The advantage of an aluminum screen printing frame is its durability and longevity. Unlike wood frames, aluminum frames will not warp when exposed to water in a plunge pool or sink. This ensures a flat frame through thousands of prints. Aluminum frames are also lightweight, which makes shipping cheaper and saves you money in the long run. If you want to maximize performance in your shop, aluminum frames are a great item to add to your screen printing equipment.

ECO FRAMEWORK

ECO frames are frames where you can attach the net yourself. The ability to stretch the fabric yourself means you can get back to production faster, quickly change the number of fabrics between orders and have more space in your shop. These frames are suitable for printers who have been in the game for a while, have gotten to grips with screen printing and are looking for a new challenge and need to free up space in their shop. Find out more about the Eco-Frames.

EMULSION

One last thing to consider is that different mesh sizes will hold different amounts of emulsion due to the size differences in the holes and this can affect your exposure times. For example, a 110 mesh screen will hold much more emulsion than a 305 mesh screen. While the difference isn’t extreme, you’ll need to vary your exposure times slightly for different mesh sizes. Because of this factor, a finer mesh screen will uncover faster than a smaller mesh screen. The difference is small enough that you only need to vary 5-10% in either direction, depending on the mesh size.

The stitch count is an important factor when checking your print job. Too high or too low a pressure can disrupt your job and leave you with undesirable pressure and a lot of frustration. Always keep in mind what ink you’re using and what type of design you’re printing, and you’ll be picking the right stitch counts in no time without thinking.

Debunking some misconceptions about the duration of a screen printed product

“Mama!” screams my daughter and hands me her cell phone. There’s a screen printed t-shirt on the phone, and on the t-shirt is a picture of an axolotl eating a donut.

Under the axolotl, the shirt says “Snacks-o-lotl!”

“I want that for my birthday!” says my daughter, jumping up with excitement.

Granted, it’s a cute shirt, and it’s hard to find anything with her favorite animal, a weird lizard-fish named the axolotl, on it. So I bought her the shirt.

That’s when I realized, wow, we really do own a lot of screen printed t-shirts. I had never thought to ask myself how many washes does screen printing last on average?

Screen printed t-shirts were a big part of not only my daughter’s wardrobe but also my husband’s. So I set to work to find out.

I was pretty excited about the answer I found!

Now that we’ve made that public, let’s explore some of the most common misconceptions about screen printing regarding the lifespan of its ink and some tips on how we can make t-shirt printing last longer.

If washed and dried properly, the screen print should outlast the life of the shirt. Fading can occur if the shirt is not properly cared for.

Do screen printed t-shirts last?

A quick explanation of screen printing

To understand why screen printing can last so long, it is important to understand what screen printing is and how it differs from other production methods.

If you’ve ever bought a t-shirt from a rock show or one from your favorite theme park, there’s a good chance it was screen printed.

Screen printing is a lot of work, much more than you think!

The sheer number of chemicals, ink brands, screen sizes and detergents is overwhelming.

Screen printing is one of the most common methods of creating customized garments.

The design possibilities are endless!

It’s relatively fast, produces a high-quality product, and can turn a quick profit after start-up costs. It’s no surprise that companies around the world use it to make their clothing.

The best fabric for screen printing is cotton. The natural cotton fibers withstand the printing process, absorb or adhere to the ink very well, and have the added benefit of being soft and breathable.

Simply put, screen printing is the process of applying ink to a t-shirt or other fabric using a screen stencil.

A brief overview of the screen printing process is as follows:

The t-shirt is initially stretched taut where it will remain taut throughout the screen printing period. The paint is then pressed through the screen template by hand or machine.

Multiple layers of ink may be required depending on the ink used. The design is achieved because the ink only goes through the screen where your design is and nowhere else. This allows for a precise, eye-catching design.

Did you know? If your design is a bit more complicated, multiple screens and different colored ink can be used.

Once the shirt is printed, it’s time to dry, also known as curing. The temperature the ink needs to reach depends on the manufacturer, but the average seems to be around 320°F.

It is very important that the shirt is not moved too much during this time! Nobody wants bleeding ink or a sloppy looking shirt.

These are just the most basic steps of screen printing, but they should give you an idea of ​​how screen printing works.

Duration of the screen printing process

The duration of the screen printing process is determined by a variety of factors. The most time-consuming aspects of the process are usually setup and cleanup.

The screen printing itself shouldn’t take more than five minutes per shirt, or even less if you’re using a machine.

The time it takes for the ink to dry/cure depends on the type and brand of ink used.

There are two main types of ink used in screen printing.

Plastisol Ink

Plastisol ink is thicker and does not penetrate when applied to the garment. Instead, the ink remains on the fabric.

This won’t make the garment as soft as you can physically feel the design on the shirt, but it can be printed onto even the darkest of fabrics and still be vibrant. Plastisol also dries faster than water-based ink.

Water based ink

Water-based ink is thinner and because it is water, it penetrates the fabric of the garment.

This has a much softer feel but is not ideal for darker shirts as the ink is thinner and therefore not as opaque. Water-based ink takes longer to dry than plastisol.

DTG printing: does screen printing or digital printing last longer?

The short answer is that screen printing lasts longer than digital printing, also known as direct-to-garment printing.

The other main method of making custom shirts is direct to garment printing or DTG printing. DTG printing has its pros and cons, just like screen printing.

DTG is when an image or design is printed directly onto the shirt. A DTG printer is like your home paper printer, but much larger. Although DTG printing can print finer details better than screen printing, it falls short in terms of durability.

Because the DTG ink is sprayed directly onto the fabric, it doesn’t stick to the fibers like screen ink does.

If the right ink is used, screen printed shirts will last a very long time without fading. Even with the best ink, DTG can only last a few dozen washes at most.

For quick, detailed designs, DTG printing isn’t a bad choice. If you’re like me and want your clothing purchases to last as long as possible, screen printing is the way to go.

Also Read – DTG Printer Buyers Guide for Beginners 2020

So that your screen-printed shirt lasts a long time

Now let’s list some very effective tips I’ve learned over the years to make your screen printed shirt last as long as possible and to debunk some screen printing misconceptions.

There are a few techniques that can really extend the life of your shirt!

Wash with cold water

This is a tip that will help you keep all your garments in the best possible condition, not just your screen printed shirts.

Washing your clothes in hot water can strip them of their color and ruin them much faster than washing them in cold water.

The screen printing ink will last longer if you wash your shirts in cold water.

Turn inside out

Another important aspect of caring for screen printed shirts is turning the shirt inside out before washing.

This will prevent the shirt’s design from being ruined by other garments in the wash or snagging on something in the machine.

hand wash

If possible, hand wash your screen printed shirts. Hand washing is by far the gentlest way to wash clothes. If you must wash your shirt in the washing machine, use a gentle cycle.

Gentle detergent and no bleach

Avoid over-soaping your screen-printed shirt and never use bleach. By weakening fabrics, these harsh soaps and chemicals will shorten the life of your shirt.

Bleach, in particular, can wreak havoc on a screen-printed shirt. The bleach can blot the ink and cause the ink to deteriorate.

Low dry or hang dry

If you must put your shirt in the dryer, run it on the lowest dryer setting. The best way to safely dry a screen printed shirt is to hang it to dry. Avoid excessive heat if possible!

No liquid fabric softener

Unfortunately, printed shirts and liquid fabric softeners don’t mix. The chemicals in the fabric softeners can attack the screen printing ink and cause cracks.

However, dryer sheets are safe, so you don’t have to go without all your favorite laundry scents.

Do not iron

Any type of heat can damage the screen printed design on your garment. Ironing on screen printed designs increases the likelihood of tearing and should be avoided if possible.

If ironing is required, do not use steam. When ironing, place a towel or other protective layer over the screen-printed shirt to avoid direct contact between the iron and the shirt.

Follow these instructions as best you can, and you’ll be shocked at how long your screen printed shirts will look like new. Worth it!

Will screen printing ink wash out?

Although it is uncommon for screen printing ink to bleed, it does occasionally occur.

Since there are two main types of ink used in screen printing, the question has two answers.

Water based ink

Water based ink is the newer ink on the scene. Unlike plastisol, it doesn’t sit on the shirt fiber. Instead, it penetrates the garment and alters the fiber itself, rather than covering it.

This has the advantage of being much softer to the touch than plastisol based inks and allowing for more detail. A shirt printed with water-based ink is much more breathable than one printed with plastisol.

Water-based inks also don’t chip or crack like plastisol-based inks can.

The disadvantage is that the drying/curing time of water-based paints is significantly longer than that of plastisol. If not properly cured, water-based ink will quickly fade with washing.

Another downside to water-based ink is that it’s not ideal for dark-colored garments.

Because water-based ink is thinner and penetrates the fabric rather than covering it, the ink will not show on the darkest of fabrics.

If using water-based ink, stick to white, beige, and other light-colored t-shirts for bases.

Water-based ink will not wash out of a shirt when used properly. Done right with quality ink, screen printing with water-based ink can last as long as screen printing with plastisol ink, but there is more room for error.

Related article: Pro tips for washing screen printed t-shirts

Plastisol Ink

When people picture a shirt screen printed, they usually think of plastisol. This ink, which has long been the standard in the screen printing world, is actually a plastic polymer.

Because plastisol is technically solid, it doesn’t sink into the fabric of the shirt, but rather bonds permanently to the fibers and lays on top. Because of this, plastisol can be used on shirts of any color.

Even on a jet black shirt, plastisol will turn out as brilliant as ever. The luminosity of plastisol is unbeatable.

Both water-based and plastisol inks are tricky when it comes to washing. The biggest concern with plastisol is that the design can chip or crack if exposed to too much heat or a rough wash.

While water-based ink feels softer, plastisol cures much faster and is easier to work with overall. Just like water-based ink, correctly applied plastisol will not wash out.

Reasons for screen printing ink washout

While both types of ink are meant to be colourfast, there are unforeseen circumstances that can cause your favorite screen printed shirt to fade.

I am blessed with naturally soft water in my home so I have never had to deal with hard water affecting my laundry. Come and find out, it can really damage screen printed shirts!

Some of the biggest enemies of screen printed shirts are:

Hard water

One danger to your shirt that you may not have considered is hard water. Hard water, which is high in minerals found in tap water, can quickly damage a screen printed design.

The minerals in the water can actually cause the inks to break down, causing the colors to bleed and run.

Pro Tip To avoid damage from hard water during washing, soak your screen printed shirts in white vinegar and water for 10 minutes before washing. Use one cup of white vinegar for every gallon of water.

Under cured ink

As I mentioned earlier, it is imperative to ensure that your screen printed shirt is fully cured. If the ink isn’t fully cured, it can crack, fade, or even wash out completely.

Don’t rely on touch alone to tell if your screenprint is cured; the ink must match the manufacturer’s specified temperature.

flicker

Flicker occurs when the fibers underneath the ink begin to break through and protrude through the design.

A number of things can cause fibrillation, from using cheap ink to a t-shirt made from the wrong material.

To prevent fibrillation, it is best to ensure that high-quality inks are used and that the t-shirt has a high cotton content.

Always pay attention to the washing instructions on the shirt label! High quality, well cared for, screen printed t-shirt designs will last as long as the t-shirt itself.

How many washes can screen printed t-shirts withstand?

When you live with kids who love cool, exclusive t-shirts and a partner who is a fan of many bands, video games and movies and has the shirts to match, washing screen printed t-shirts becomes a natural part of life.

If, like me, you want to do as little laundry as possible, it’s tempting to throw everyone’s screen-printed t-shirts in the washing machine with the towels and jeans.

I’ve learned the hard way that nobody is happy when their favorite shirt is ruined by my impatience with the laundry.

So I took it easy and gave all the screen printed shirts a good wash. Hand washed in cold water and hung to dry. Surprisingly they all looked brand new even after over ten washes!

It’s impossible to put an exact number on how many washes a screen printed shirt will last, but I now know that a screen printed t-shirt that is properly cared for will last a very long time.

On the other hand, a screen-printed t-shirt washed with a full load of random laundry using harsh detergents and tumble dried on high heat might only survive a dozen or so washes.

Treat your screen printed t-shirts like the works of art they are and you can keep them for as long as you like!

Final Thoughts

Going to concerts is one of my favorite things to do and I make it a point to buy a t-shirt at every concert. Almost all of these t-shirts are screen printed.

Because of the screen printing process and the care I took when washing it, I still have t-shirts from concerts I attended in high school that look like I bought them yesterday.

A quality screen printed shirt will never fade through the wash as long as it’s cared for, and while the steps may seem tedious, with practice it will seem like second nature.

It’s rare to find a piece of clothing that you can be sure will last. I’ve taken a favorite blouse or leggings out of the dryer countless times only to discover the beautiful pattern fading and wearing. It’s annoying and it’s not good for my wallet!

At least I can count on my screen printed shirts to stick!

If you’re still wondering how many washes a screen print can last on average, the answer is: the main thing is that you take care of it!

Happy washing!

People are always concerned about how long printed shirts will last.

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And with good care!

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Because there are many bad printers out there using bad methods, bad skills and bad equipment.

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A properly printed shirt should never fade. It should also not crack or peel.

So many people print on shirts in a cheap, cheap way, and people are drawn to it, and they expect any shirt design to peel off at any moment.

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Or they fear that the shirt will no longer look good after ten washes. (Or even one).

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Or that the design on the shirt will crack because the ink is heavy and weird and plasticky and just too short lived to make a permanent, quality shirt print.

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There are several common t-shirt printing techniques, and screen printing is the highest quality and most professional of them all. (That does of course Vacord Screen Printing)

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Etch printing is just a kind of screen printing. The main difference is mostly in the ink used. Other than that, the screen layout is slightly different, but it’s all the same gear and procedures. It’s great for printing on natural fibers (like cotton), but also works well on blended shirts (like some 50/50 poly/cotton blends).

(more after the jump)

I get so many questions about cleaning a screen print I thought I’d make a tutorial on it! There are two types of screens that I use regularly: the contact paper stencil screens and the photo emulsion screens. Here’s the difference:

Contact Paper: I hand cut a design in sticky paper and apply it to the screen. After screen printing, the ink can be washed out of the screen and the contact paper stays in place and can be reused for multiple prints.

Emulsion: Photo emulsion is a substance that you apply to a screen and leave to dry in the dark. When you print a design on tracing paper, place it on the screen and expose it to the light….. the photo emulsion is exposed and permanent on the screen except where the design blocks the light. With the photo emulsion you can print very detailed designs over and over again using the screen printing process. The ink can be washed off after use and the design will not be washed off. Only an emulsion remover can remove the design, allowing the screen to be reused with a different design.

Note: I tend to use yudo screens for screen printing because they are flat and don’t take up storage space. However, there’s no protection on the sides to keep your ink from splattering across the table like it would with a larger frame. I have to be super careful.

I have the following on hand to clean my screens:

Speedball Screen Cleaner

Diazo photo emulsion remover

Distilled white vinegar

Scouring pad or nylon brush

Magic eraser

So if you’re done with an emulsion design and want to reuse a screen, follow these steps to remove the emulsion:

Before removing an emulsion, I remove any excess ink or screen filler that was used to patch the screen. The Speed ​​Cleaner removes ink and . I also use distilled vinegar and a magic eraser for stubborn stains. Any ink or screen filler will prevent the emulsion remover from working.

I use Diazo Emulsion Remover to loosen the photo emulsion from the screen.

I take a brush and coat one side with the remover and then turn the screen over and coat the other side as well.

Leave the emulsion remover on for exactly 1.5 minutes and then scrub with a nylon brush or scrubbing pad. Once you see the emulsion starting to break up, you can spray with water and continue scrubbing until the emulsion is completely gone:

Sometimes when the emulsion is gone I still have stubborn ink back:

I use Speed ​​Cleaner first and try to remove it:

A good scrub usually does the trick, but I sometimes use distilled white vinegar and the Magic Eraser to help. Once the screen is completely clean, it can be used again for a new design!

Here are some other screen printing tutorials to try!