Antique Copper Kettle Markings? Top Answer Update

People have enjoyed tea for thousands of years. It’s a versatile drink that comes in many flavors and has numerous health benefits as well. Making tea is a fairly simple process that starts with heating water. A mug in the microwave is a quick and easy way to brew a cup of tea, but true tea connoisseurs turn to a tea kettle. Unlike a microwave oven, which can overheat water, a stovetop tea kettle brings the water to the boiling point, which is the perfect temperature for preserving the tea’s delicate flavor. There are many different types of tea kettles, but copper tea kettles have been around for centuries. Is a copper tea kettle or teapot a wise choice? The following guide should help you to decide.

Saucepan vs Kettle, What’s the Difference?

A tea kettle is a vessel used to heat water. You place the tea kettle on the stove and rely on a whistle, activated by escaping steam, to let you know when the water is boiling. The water from the tea kettle is then poured into a teapot.

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A teapot contains tea leaves that are brewed in hot water to make tea. Once the tea is ready, it is poured into mugs or teacups. Teapots are not made to sit on a stove. The only exception is that there are some types of copper teapots that double as kettles and jugs. The intended purpose of a teapot is to brew tea and keep it warm.

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The advantages of copper tea kettles

Copper is an excellent conductor of heat and water boils faster in a copper tea kettle than in a glass or stainless steel kettle. You only need to use medium heat to boil water in a copper kettle. This saves time and energy and makes copper more environmentally friendly than other materials. A copper kettle doesn’t rust, and high-end kettles are built to last 20 years or more, depending on usage. Even when new, copper kettles have an elegant and antique look, which means you can leave them on the stove or counter to add some style to your kitchen.

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When it comes to flavor, copper does not retain aroma from different teas. Simply rinse the kettle or pot after each brew to ensure your tea tastes the best.

The disadvantages of copper tea kettles and teapots

The downside to modern copper cookware is that it requires regular maintenance to keep it looking bright and attractive. Copper tarnishes in air and requires frequent polishing. Copper is also a soft metal and can scratch and dent more easily than other materials. A solid copper kettle or teapot can also be a bit pricey compared to stainless steel or glass.

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How to choose a copper tea kettle or teapot

Copper tea kettles and teapots come in a variety of styles. Some are intended to be decorative rather than functional and may have a glossy lacquered finish. Avoid these kettles as the copper is often thin and won’t stand up to everyday use. The paint will eventually burn off. A copper teapot should be of some weight and lined with stainless steel, pewter, or a similar metal. If you drink a lot of tea, avoid kettles and teapots lined with pewter. Tin wears out much faster than stainless steel.

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Are old copper tea kettles and teapots safe to use?

Old and truly antique copper teapots are often solid copper and have no protective lining whatsoever. This can be dangerous when used to boil water. Copper poisoning can result from consuming foods and beverages that have come in direct contact with copper. Symptoms of copper poisoning include a variety of stomach and digestive problems. If you find an old copper kettle or teapot at a thrift or antique store, it’s best to use it for decorative purposes only. Modern kettles and teapots are lined with pewter, stainless steel, or similar metal to make them safe for boiling water or brewing tea.

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Use and Care of a Copper Tea Kettle or Teapot

Copper tea kettles and teapots should be hand washed. Do not put them in the dishwasher. Always make sure there is water in a tea kettle before turning on a stove burner. Water heats up quickly in a copper kettle, so be sure to remove it from the stove if it starts whistling. Water boiled in a cauldron that has burned on the inside tastes like burnt copper. Medium heat is enough to bring water to a boil.

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To keep the outside of your pot or kettle bright and shiny, buff the chickadee regularly. Commercial copper cleaner or a homemade mixture of vinegar, salt and flour or lemon juice and salt will keep the copper looking new. After polishing, wash the shell in hot, soapy water, then rinse before final polishing.

Copper kettles and teapots have been used to brew tea for centuries. They have a vintage appeal and can add a touch of class to your kitchen or tea set. When it’s time for tea, avoid the convenience of microwave heating and invest in a tea kettle. You will be surprised how much better your tea tastes.

I am a detail oriented person. This is a post about details.

I’m a student of stamps on vintage copper pots because they’re one of the best ways to track age and provenance. Copper has of course been stamped, etched and shaped for millennia, but I’m talking about the letters and numbers and logos on professionally made French copper pots and pans.

It is thanks to the French government that stamps are a reasonably reliable means of identifying old copper pots and pans. In 1735, Louis XIV began enacting a series of laws to introduce quality controls in the copper industry — the purity of copper and tin is a public health concern — culminating in a series of laws in 1745 requiring a copper manufacturer to operate , to stamp a unique and traceable mark on its products.

I think most old-law French vintage pots bear at least one stamp: the maker’s mark, a shop mark, a number, an owner’s initials. This was true for two centuries before waning in the 1960s when the stamp dwindled to a generic ‘Made in France’ and perhaps a shop stamp or a small manufacturer’s logo. But until then, tracing a pot back to its maker wasn’t too difficult; After World War II, the number of French chaudronniers had dwindled to a handful of companies in Villedieu-les-Poêles, dominated by Mauviel, which began exporting en masse to the European and US markets in the 1960s.

But before that, perhaps from the 1820s to 1930s, there were thousands—tens of thousands—of copper pots made by the world’s most skilled copper artisans. Many of them come with a maker’s mark, but many don’t. Instead of the name of the house that made them, these pans might instead bear the mark of their diameter or their owner’s name or initials.

What I would like to suggest to you is that these stamps carry information beyond the letter or the number – that the design of the mark – its font – is a recognizable physical feature that we can use to track pieces from the same manufacturer. By closely examining the typeface of a number on a piece of known origin, we can recognize and perhaps identify the same typeface on another piece.

For this little experiment, I make two main assumptions.

First, I am assuming coppersmiths put size stamps on the pots and not the customer.

Second, I assume coppersmiths used the same number stamps over a period of time. I assume they had individual numbers available to be stamped into the copper one at a time, and possibly a set of commonly used numbers – 26, 28, 30, etc. – to identify pans of a particular diameter. I suppose the coppersmith would buy a set of numbers and reuse them as long as possible until they get lost or damaged.

The most useful identification numbers are those that denote the most common cup diameters. The range starts at 10 centimeters and goes from two to 50 (and beyond, for the really big ones), so the most useful numbers to compare are 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 0.

Known Gaillard

Gaillard uses a fancy font with eye-catching stylistic flourishes. The Gaillard 2 and 4 are very distinctive: the 2 has an upstroke at the top of the baseline, while the crossbar of the 4 protrudes in a triangular shape. In the smaller version, this is visible as a protrusion that is significantly thicker than the segment on the other side of the vertical.

Source: Etsy

Known Jacquotot

I don’t have many samples of Jacquotot pieces. Note the distinct vertical bar at the protruding end of the 4’s crossbar. The 0 is also quite wide.

Source: eBay

Known Dehiller

Dehillerin also uses a serif font, but look closely at the crossbar of the 4 – the protruding tip is thin, thinner than Jacquotot’s or Gaillard’s.

Source: Etsy

Unknown pans and speculative identification

40cm Rondeau (my collection)

Based on the 4 I believe this is a dehiller. The stamp on my piece is behind a handle, so I had to take the photo at an angle that foreshortens the characters, but it’s virtually identical to the 4 on the Dehillerin pattern.

Unknown 40cm rondeau

Unknown 30cm casserole (my collection)

That’s another dehiller in my opinion. I think the 3 are pretty much identical. The two Gaillard examples are not quite the same.

Unknown 30cm casserole

Unknown 42cm Casserole (Etsy)

I think this is another dehiller, again based on the 4. The 2 does not have the same rise at the base as the Gaillard pattern.

Unknown 42cm casserole. Source: Etsy

Unknown 24cm soup pot (Etsy)

I think this is Gaillard based on the prominent 2. The crosspiece on the 4 also seems to have a thick protruding piece as does the Gaillard style.

Unknown 24cm soup pot. Source: Etsy Unknown 24cm soup pot. Source: Etsy

Unknown 24cm saucepan (Etsy)

This is Gaillard or I’ll eat my hat.

Unknown 24cm saucepan. Source: Etsy

Unknown 24cm Casserole (Etsy)

Difficult question as the stamp is a bit rubbed off, but I still see a Dehillerin 4.

Unknown 24cm casserole. Source: Etsy

Grands Magazin du Louvre 26cm Frying Pan (Etsy)

Hard to say. The 2 is Gaillard-esque. The 6 isn’t quite Jacquotot style.

Unknown 26 cm frying pan with shop stamp. Source: Etsy

Grands Magasins du Printemps 21cm cover (Etsy)

I think the 1 is a Gaillard 1 but the 2 isn’t very Gaillard 2 if that makes sense. It’s definitely not a Dehillerin 1.

Unknown 21cm lid with warehouse stamp. Source: Etsy Source: Etsy

Unknown 22cm saucepan (Etsy)

That’s Gaillard in my opinion, but the 1 is more of a dehiller 1 than the sample Gaillard 1.

Unknown 22cm saucepan. Source: Etsy Source: Etsy

What do you think? This limited overview is by no means exhaustive, but I think there is something to it. But I definitely need more samples!

revisions

Revisiting this post two years after I wrote it, I decided to omit letter stamps and just focus on size stamps. My rationale for this is that I think a size stamp on a piece is more likely to be put there at the time of manufacture, while the owner’s marks – letters – are more likely to be added later. For me, this makes numbers a more reliable link to the manufacturer, and so I’ve pulled out examples and mentions of letters.

Copper with its rich caramel color brings an enchanting warmth to your home. And as any collector knows, regular cleaning and polishing of your copper pieces will keep them from looking dull and tarnished. Copper’s value derives from its beautiful reddish-gold hue, its strength and resistance to corrosion, and its malleability into other shapes. You can find copper in household items, the pipes in your building, jewelry, and even works of art.

Copper’s benefits go beyond aesthetics, however: the chemical element and metal contain antibacterial properties that make it ideal for preventing the growth of certain fungi and bacteria such as E. Coli, MRSA and Legionella. Copper can also combine with other metals. It is also conductive, which is why it is used in electrical wiring. With its plethora of uses, you want to be sure your item is the right one. What should you look for when examining a piece for copper while perusing a Saturday morning estate sale, garage sale, or flea market?

The color test

Copper and brass are easily confused because they look so similar. “Copper is a natural shade of pink with reddish-brown hues like a freshly minted penny that can darken to red, yellow or orange over time,” says Nicolas Martin, flea market expert and founder of Flea Market Insiders. Brass, on the other hand, appears more yellow and tends to be significantly lighter. Look closely at the item’s nuances to see if it’s really copper or something else. You may need to polish the item first, especially if it appears dull.

The magnet test

Like silver and gold, real copper doesn’t have much magnetism. “Like real silver, copper is only very weakly magnetic,” says Martin. “You can do the same magnet test by placing a magnet on the surface of the item. If the magnet sticks, you can make sure the item isn’t copper.” Small magnets are also easy to take to flea markets or antique shops. Even if an object is made of metal coated with real copper, it fails this test – the metal underneath attracts the magnet. An object made entirely of copper, on the other hand, will not attract the magnet.

The oxidation test

Copper corrodes in a unique way. It doesn’t rust. Instead, the oxidation process creates a crust that is blue or green in color. “There are many ways to look for real copper, but if you’re shopping at the market, you probably won’t have a lemon or white light,” explains Sue Whitney, who has authored five books on antique shopping and decorating with repurposed furniture. “Copper found at flea or vintage markets will most likely have a good patina.” Copper corrodes in a unique way. It doesn’t rust. “Oxidation on real copper shows up as crusted growths of blues and greens on a powdery red coating on the surface of the copper.”

Conducive to electricity

You should be careful when testing, but real copper is a great conductor of electricity. To test the authenticity of your copper piece in this way, you need a device called an ohmmeter, which can measure the object’s electrical resistance. Next you need to do some math: take the reading from the ohmmeter and multiply it by the cross-sectional area of ​​the item, then divide that number by the length of the item. Real copper has a resistivity of 1.7 x 10^-8 ohmmeter.

The sound test

Copper has its own sound. “Hit something with your copper object and listen for the sound,” says Martin. Real copper is a soft metal and should produce a deep and mellow sound, unlike alloys which produce more of a clear, bell-like sound.” Different materials produce different sounds. But real copper always sounds like copper.

The smoothness test

Martin suggests holding the item in your hands. “Does it feel really sturdy? Copper is notoriously soft, so keeping a piece perfectly smooth when working with copper can be difficult,” he says. “If the piece of copper is thin enough, you might even be able to bend it with your bare hands.” Know the feel and texture of real copper when you hit the market. This little test can indicate whether you own the real deal or a decent copy.

The Density Test

You can make another natural cleanser by mixing lemon juice (or vinegar) and baking soda into a frothy mixture. Apply to the copper and buff with a soft cloth. Rinse with water and dry. These mixtures work because the acid in the vinegar or lemon juice removes the oxidized patina from the copper and the salt acts as a mild abrasive to remove the dirt. You can also use lime juice instead of lemon.

In addition to common home remedies, there are a number of industrial products that work really well to remove stains from the surface of copper. Below we have mentioned some of the most common chemicals that easily clean copper utensils.

1. Citric Acid – Citric acid is an organic acid used to purify copper. It is not a very strong acid, but at the same time it has the ability to get rid of the oxidized copper. Citric acid is an organic acid and is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, tangerines, etc. One of the strongest sources of citric acid is lemons. They contain large amounts of citric acid and when combined with baking soda they make the perfect mix to get rid of those pesky oxidation spots.

2. Acetic Acid – This is perhaps one of the most commonly used materials for cleaning copper. Many people may not know this, but acetic acid is readily available in almost every home in the form of vinegar. Although acetic acid is fairly weak and not as strong as citric acid, it does the job of cleaning copper fairly well. Vinegar is usually mixed with baking powder, salt, cream of tartar, or flour to form a paste. The paste is then used to clean the Pure Copper utensils for an unparalleled shine.

3. Acetone-Acetone is an organic compound commonly used as a solvent. Acetone is mainly used in nail polish remover products as one of the main ingredients. This particular product evaporates quickly and therefore you need to work with it very quickly. The copper device can also be completely immersed in the acetone for cleaning.

4. Hydrochloric Acid – Hydrochloric acid is a very strong acid and is used in households to clean bathrooms and remove stains from sinks and tiles etc. This particular acid is definitely not the most recommended for cleaning copper as it is very strong and can sometimes damage the utensil itself, but it still gets the job done.

5. Tartaric Acid – Tartaric acid is most commonly used in combination with acetic acid. When the two are combined, they form a fairly powerful formulation that easily cleans the copper surface without damaging it.

A copper tea set has many benefits, including the decorative statement it makes in your kitchen. Credit: ChamilleWhite/iStock/GettyImages See more photos

A copper tea set has many benefits, including the decorative statement it makes in your kitchen. But despite its benefits, the question of whether a copper kettle is safe or not always remains. Although many older copper teapots are unsafe and can actually cause copper teakettle poisoning, modern teapots meet certain guidelines that make them safe to use.

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Old copper cauldrons

Although an old and antique copper teapot can be an important part of your kitchen decor, they are often made of solid copper with no protective liner. Because of this, copper poisoning can occur in people who eat or drink food or drink containing water that has been stored or boiled in an old copper kettle. Copper teapot poisoning can cause a variety of stomach and digestive problems.

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Copper kettles made today are lined with a thin lining of stainless steel, tin, or nickel, making them safe to use. The metal liner makes these kettles safe to use for boiling, simmering and storing water without the risk of copper tea kettle poisoning. If you have or plan to buy an old copper teapot or kettle, it should only be used for decoration. Even if the kettle appears to be in excellent condition, there is a risk of copper poisoning if there is no liner.

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Advantages of the copper cauldron

The first thing most people notice about a copper cauldron is its distinct antique look. Even new copper kettles give off an antique look that can make a statement in your kitchen, and they come in a variety of sizes and styles. One thing that makes a copper kettle unique is that it takes on different hues as it is heated, which most copper kettle owners find attractive as it enhances the antique feel.

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Like a copper sink and other copper cookware, a copper kettle will develop a patina over time that contributes to its unique appearance. If you’d rather keep the kettle looking like new, use a copper cleaner regularly. Water heats up faster in a copper kettle, which means it’s more energy efficient than other types of kettles, saving both time and energy. And unlike other kettles, a copper teapot won’t chip or rust and is designed to last for years to come.

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Disadvantages of copper boilers

Just as there are many advantages to copper kettles, owning a copper tea set also has disadvantages. A copper kettle can be expensive to buy compared to other materials. Because a copper teapot heats up so quickly, the stovetop should only be on medium-high to bring it to a boil. As soon as the kettle starts whistling, the kettle should be removed from the stove to avoid scorching.

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And remember, older kettles should only be used for decoration. When buying a new kettle, look for one lined with stainless steel as it will last longer than one lined with tin. Never use vinegar or lemon juice to clean the inside of the kettle as this can damage the liner. Because copper is a soft material, the bottom and walls of the kettle can easily warp. Copper kettles are also more prone to scratches than other kettles.

The shine and beauty of copper seduce chefs. It inspires collections strung across kitchen islands almost too polished to use. And since golden utensils and brass cupboard handles have been particularly trendy lately, warm metals have had their time. But the reality, of course, is that copper cookware is not only beautiful, it’s also not a trend. Copper is the oldest metal used by man. It has unmatched conductivity and heats up quickly and evenly, making it a powerful tool in your kitchen.

It’s not cheap either! And it requires some maintenance. If you still can’t stop staring at gravy boats, frying pans, jam pots, canelé molds – and by the way, can we talk about those mini butter warmers? – Here’s exactly what you need to know before you buy copper cookware.

What is the story?

Copper is a naturally occurring metal that was first used to make tools in the Middle East around 10,000 years ago. One of the oldest pieces, dated to around 8700 BC. B.C., was found in northern Iraq.

You may associate it mainly with France. Founded in Normandy in 1830, Mauviel remains the big name in copper cookware in Europe. After World War II, Williams-Sonoma’s Chuck Williams stumbled upon Dehillerin, the popular Parisian cookware store, and got lost in the huge selection of shiny, pink copper pots and pans in all shapes and sizes.

“Copper pots are best for cooking because they hold and distribute heat well,” advised Julia Child in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and helped popularize the material in the imagination of American home cooks. In fact, however, America has always had its own copper tradition. Paul Revere was a coppersmith. In fact, copper is used in cooking in many countries and cuisines, such as Indian kadhais and Mexican cazos.

How should you use copper cookware?

Copper’s ultimate strength is its incredible conductivity. It heats up quickly and spreads evenly to the edges of the pan. Place a copper skillet on a French stove and it will get hot. Peel it off and it cools down quickly. This quick, nimble responsiveness makes copper great for searing, roasting, sauces and jams. Use it to cook anything that needs instant heat to sear or needs to reach a certain consistency. “I’d go so far as to say that the Maillard reaction and French nutmegs all exist because of copper cookware,” says Mac Kohler of Brooklyn Copper Cookware. “They could never have been refined without these finely calibrated pans.”

Like most materials, copper as a cooking surface has its pros and cons. According to Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, copper ions have beneficial effects such as stabilizing protein and preserving the green color of vegetables. But copper ions also have negative effects: they react with acid, resulting in off-flavours. In too large quantities, they can be toxic. Copper should not be used to cook sauces with ingredients such as lemon juice, wine, tomatoes. Finally, most copper pots and pans need to be lined for everyday cooking.

Do you want tin or stainless steel lined copper?

Tin is the traditional lining for copper pots. Tin chemically combines with copper – it’s very malleable and melts easily, so it blends beautifully with the lining of a copper pot. Tin is also a good liner as it is not reactive to acid and is relatively non-stick (not compared to, say, modern Teflon, but compared to stainless steel). Unfortunately, it has a low melting point of 450°F, so it can wear out. In France, restaurants regularly send their pots and pans to be tinned. Few chefs in the US commit to tin-lined copper, but there are some dedicated collectors.

But as the British Empire intensified its advance into Asia in the 19th century, more and more trade routes opened up for shipping. This made it easy and profitable for traders to bring tea back to Britain and sell it to the general public. However, ordinary people could not afford silver kettles, so they needed an alternative made from a cheaper material that was also widely available and a good conductor of heat: copper.

Every Austin culinary student needs to have the right cookware to get their job done. The quality of the cookware can affect the finished dish. While it’s always a good idea to get the highest quality cookware, it’s not always affordable — especially for college students. Students taking cookery courses in Austin often buy cookware to take home. While copper cookware is typically high on many cooking students’ wish lists, it might be a purchase that should be postponed until after graduation when they start raking in a bigger paycheck.

Thermal conductivity and why it matters

Different metals conduct heat in different ways. If the dish is to be cooked evenly, it is important that the pan can conduct the heat evenly. While most materials like steel, aluminum, and cast iron distribute heat well across the surface of the pan or pot, copper is the best metal for even heat distribution. Of these options, cast iron is the least efficient when it comes to heat distribution.

The cost of copper

Copper cookware is very expensive. Individual pots generally cost at least $100, and copper cookware sets can easily run into the thousands. Although copper pots and pans are extremely expensive and most likely out of an Austin culinary arts student’s price range, with proper care they will last much longer than other pots and pans.

Copper cookware liners

As good as copper cookware is, it can leach copper into the food, and too much copper is toxic. To counter the fears associated with copper ingestion, copper pots and pans are often made with either a stainless steel liner or a pewter liner. The lining is a very thin layer of metal between the copper and the food to be cooked. This allows for the thermal conductivity benefits of copper without the potential toxicity of copper.

Is it worth the money?

Whether copper cookware is worth it depends on three things: Is the money available? Is the cookware well cared for? Do the dishes require high-quality cookware? Since Austin culinary arts students often prepare complex dishes in and out of class, buying copper cookware might be a good idea, but be sure to answer these questions before fully committing.

Copper is expensive but worth it

Buying cookware can be a daunting task. There are so many options – enameled, cast iron, stainless steel, carbon steel, aluminum, non-stick, copper – and all have very different uses and price points. When it comes to copper cookware, the cost can be intimidating, especially if you don’t understand how to use copper in the kitchen.

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If you’re thinking of investing in copper cookware and adding these gorgeous and useful pieces to your collection, here are some things you need to know and consider.

Because the temperature is easy to control, copper pots are perfect for melting chocolate and making candy — Photo courtesy Getty Images / VieCreative

Copper heats up quickly

In the world of metals, copper is one of the best conductors of heat. It heats up very quickly, so unlike cast iron, copper cookware does not need to be preheated. In fact, it is recommended not to heat an empty pan. Copper is the only metal you should have ready before you start cooking.

Copper heats up evenly

Due to its heat-conducting properties, copper also heats up evenly. So you don’t have to worry about hotspots. Copper cookware is great when you need to control and maintain consistent temperatures.

But don’t use too much heat!

Because copper heats up quickly and distributes heat evenly, you don’t have to use as much heat to bring it to a boil. If a recipe calls for medium-high heat using your regular cookware, use medium-low heat for your copper pieces.

Yes, copper is pretty efficient, but you shouldn’t use too much heat because depending on whether the cookware uses a soft metal liner, you could actually melt the liner!

Copper cools quickly

Just as it heats up quickly, copper also cools down quickly. This is why so many confectioners and chocolatiers use copper pots and pans. It’s the perfect material for making sweets (where temperature needs to be controlled) as well as delicate proteins like fish and sauces.

Because copper is a reactive material, most copper cookware is lined with a non-reactive metal — Photo courtesy Getty Images / FabrikaCr

Copper cookware is lined

Copper is a reactive metal. In most cases, this means it will have a chemical reaction with what you’re cooking, causing a metallic taste to enter your food. With the exception of jam pans and bowls for whipping egg whites, which rely on the reactivity of copper, most copper pots and pans are lined with a non-reactive metal.

Know what your copper cookware is lined with

Before you start cooking, you should find out what your copper cookware is lined with. If you’re working with newer pieces, it’s likely lined with stainless steel, which is sturdy and can withstand more aggressive utensils and cleaning agents.

But if you’re buying older, used copper pieces from a flea market or thrift store, you may be dealing with a softer metal coating like pewter. Tin gives your copper a great non-stick surface to work with, but it has a few downsides. It has a melting point of around 450°F, which is another reason you shouldn’t use too much heat.

Tin is also easily scratched and chipped with metal utensils and sharp scrubbing brushes. Not only does this expose the copper beneath the lining, but it can also result in small bits of pewter getting into your food. It is best to use wooden spoons and softer utensils when working with tinned copper cookware.

A little acid will help keep the shine

If you’re buying older copper cookware or need to refresh your collection, you can use a little acid to get your copper looking like new again. A little lemon juice or vinegar can revitalize the shine of your copper.

They are very durable

Taking care of copper is as easy as using wooden utensils when cooking to avoid scratching the lining. do not use too much heat when cooking; and occasionally rub with acid.

But despite the necessary gentle care, copper can be very durable. As long as there are no holes, it’s relatively easy to restore your copper cookware to its former glory.

Copper pots and pans are statement pieces in the kitchen — Photo courtesy of Getty Images / therry

They are easy to revive

The metals used to line copper cookware are, for the most part, very strong and resistant to corrosion. But if you have tinned copper, no matter how well you take care of it, it will wear out over time. If you find damage to the tin lining, you can always have your copper pots and pans re-tinned if necessary.

They are beautifully crafted works of art

Copper pots and pans are not only very useful in the kitchen, they are also absolutely adorable. Don’t hide your pans in the cupboard. Hang them with pride and show off your copper cookware collection. They bring your kitchen to life but are also great conversation pieces.

LRV, or Light Reflectance Value, is a measure commonly used by design professionals such as architects and interior designers that expresses the percentage of light reflected from a surface. LRVs range from 0-100, where 100 means pure white and 0 means absolute black.

Please start here.

contents

1. Getting Started

What’s so special about vintage French copper cookware?

From the 17th century, French food became a recognized element of French culture, and French artisans perfected the fine copper cookware in which it was prepared. Many antique pans from the early 18th century and into the 1930s (up to WWII) are made of extra thick copper with ornate brass or cast iron handles. They are beautiful objects made from pure copper, often thicker than anything made today, and when restored with a good pewter lining they are just as wonderful for cooking today as they were 150 years ago.

The second great era of French copper cookware began after World War II. In the 1950s, Chuck Williams was visiting France and had the idea of ​​opening a store in the United States modeled after the cookware stores he saw in Paris. Julia Child’s television cooking show popularized French cuisine in the 1960s through the 1990s, and people in the United States began searching for French copper cookware. French makers responded enthusiastically, and while copper from the period was made using modern manufacturing techniques and doesn’t feel as handcrafted as antique copper, it can be just as thick and of high quality.

Can a vintage French copper pot be used for cooking?

Yes, if it is in good physical condition and its liner is intact. On French copper pots and pans made before the 1970s, the lining is most likely made of a layer of tin, which can wear away with use. If you receive a pan with a worn liner, you must line it with a new pan before cooking with it. You’ll know it’s worn when copper shows through.

You may want to read my quality and condition page for more of my opinions on the subject.

Where can I buy old French copper?

By definition, vintage French copper is no longer made, so you’ll need to check eBay, Etsy, and antique and real estate stores. While many fine pieces of copper have already been imported into the US, more are still being “discovered” in France and Europe, often in unrestored condition. Some copper sellers will restore a piece before offering it for sale, while others will sell it to you in unrestored condition at a lower price.

Why buy old French copper instead of new copper cookware?

I won’t try to tell you what to do, but I will tell you why I bought so many of these.

Because it is thicker than the copper cookware made today. Antique French copper was routinely made 3mm thick, sometimes reaching 4mm or even 5mm thick. Mauviel’s consumer grade pieces sit at 2.5mm; A handful of coppersmiths make copper 3mm thick, but no one makes thicker pieces.

Antique French copper was routinely made 3mm thick, sometimes reaching 4mm or even 5mm thick. Mauviel’s consumer grade pieces sit at 2.5mm; A handful of coppersmiths make copper 3mm thick, but no one makes thicker pieces. Because thicker copper cookware has unique beneficial properties for cooking. I’ll get into that below, but in my opinion the best copper grades for cooking start at around 2.5mm thick and really settle in at 3mm.

I’ll get into that below, but in my opinion the best copper grades for cooking start at around 2.5mm thick and really settle in at 3mm. Because I accepted the operating costs. I’m willing to pay more for a piece of vintage copper and the cost of restoration and retinning.

I’m willing to pay more for a piece of vintage copper and the cost of restoration and retinning. Because I can work with the properties of tin. I understand how to cook with and clean my tinned copper and I have other pans for those occasions when tinned copper is not the best choice.

I understand how to cook with and clean my tinned copper and I have other pans for those occasions when tinned copper is not the best choice. Because it’s beautiful and makes me happy. I love the look and feel of vintage copper. I love displaying it in my home. And I love cooking with it.

Is thicker copper better?

This ultimately comes down to preference. For style of cooking, I’ve built my cookware collection around pans that are at least 2.5mm thick, with most being 3mm thick or more.

In cooking, thin copper (2mm or less) is useful for relatively few cooking tasks, while thicker copper (2.5mm or more) is useful for a great deal more. A thin copper pan heats up quickly and cools quickly, and I want that “responsiveness” for things like very delicate sauces so I can pull them off the heat and keep them from curdling or burning. A thicker copper pan will change temperature more slowly, and once it’s hot, it will stick to that heat. I want this constant heat for most of my cooking jobs – browning meat and sautéing vegetables. (Chowhound has epic threads on this topic. Start with the thickness of copper cookware, then for a discussion of what types of pans benefit best from their thickness, move on to copper, a cookware that makes the most of its heat transfer properties .)

Interestingly, copper does not bring any benefit for water heating. The cooking performance of a copper pot filled with water is not significantly affected by the properties of the copper, but by the water it contains. A pot filled with water heats up and cools down about the same amount, regardless of whether it is made of copper, steel, aluminum or iron. So, from a cooking perspective, it’s not worth buying an all-copper stock pot – buy and use one if it makes you happy (and I do!), but don’t expect it to heat your broth any better!

As for collectible copper, thicker copper is generally more desirable. I have much more to say about this in How I Define Collectability.

Can a copper pot be too thick?

In my opinion yes, if it gets too difficult for you. I have a number of restaurant quality pieces that are really big and very heavy – 15 pounds or more when empty. In a large canteen kitchen such a pot would sit on the hob all evening, and when it came time to clean it there would be many strong men lugging it around. But realistically, I may never use mine for cooking. (My heaviest pot is 40 pounds and I use it for firewood.)

What are the disadvantages of vintage French copper?

When people complain about this, here are some of the things they complain about. (I won’t go into the counterpoints here – that’s what the rest of the page is for!)

It’s expensive to buy. Given that “expensive” is a subjective judgement, copper pots and pans cost more than pans made of other materials.

Given that “expensive” is a subjective judgement, copper pots and pans cost more than pans made of other materials. Shipping is also expensive. If you’re buying a pot on Etsy or eBay, expect to pay at least $30 for shipping, up to $100 or more for a large piece. (And “free shipping” is never free, it’s built into the purchase price.) You’ll also pay similar prices if you send your pots for re-tinning.

. If you’re buying a pot on Etsy or eBay, expect to pay at least $30 for shipping, up to $100 or more for a large piece. (And “free shipping” is never free, it’s built into the purchase price.) You’ll also pay similar prices if you send your pots for re-tinning. It’s too heavy to cook. Copper is a dense metal. My 12-inch aluminum stew pot weighs 5 pounds, while the same copper stew pot weighs 15 pounds. You need more arm and hand strength to move copper pots and pans than you need for other types of cookware.

Copper is a dense metal. My 12-inch aluminum stew pot weighs 5 pounds, while the same copper stew pot weighs 15 pounds. You need more arm and hand strength to move copper pots and pans than you need for other types of cookware. You can’t cook on very high heat with tinned copper. The melting point of tin is 450°F (232°C), a temperature that most kitchen stoves can reach within minutes. When cooking on high with a tin-lined pan, you may very well scratch the surface of the pan to the point of smearing or bubbling the pan.

The melting point of tin is 450°F (232°C), a temperature that most kitchen stoves can reach within minutes. When cooking on high with a tin-lined pan, you may very well scratch the surface of the pan to the point of smearing or bubbling the pan. Tinning is annoying. Tin-lined pans will need to have the liner replaced when worn, which means taking (or shipping) the pan to a retinler and waiting a few weeks for it to be returned. This costs money and also downtime of the ladle. You can greatly extend the life of a tin liner, but you can’t change the fact that it wears out over time.

Tin-lined pans will need to have the liner replaced when worn, which means taking (or shipping) the pan to a retinler and waiting a few weeks for it to be returned. This costs money and also downtime of the ladle. You can greatly extend the life of a tin liner, but you can’t change the fact that it wears out over time. Shiny copper requires a lot of care. In addition to caring for the inside of the pot, there is also the problem of the inevitable tarnishing on the outside. If you want to keep the shine and bright copper tone, you need to remove tarnish regularly.

2. About tinned copper

Why are old French copper pots and pans lined with tin?

Copper, in direct contact with certain food acids at cooking temperatures, can produce chemical compounds that are mildly toxic – consumed in large amounts can cause stomach pain. To prevent this, copper must be protected from direct contact with food, ideally with a substance that does not impede the transfer of heat from the pan to the food. Luckily for us, tin is a handy substance for this: It occurs in natural deposits, transmits heat fairly well, and melts at a reasonable temperature (450°F or 232°C). Metallurgists found this out in ancient times, and tin was the most commonly used lining for copper cookware until the 1970s, when they developed industrial techniques to join copper with stainless steel, nickel, and aluminum.

You can find unlined French copper cookware, but these are specialty tools for cooking with food that don’t react with copper to produce the harmful compounds. (A short list: beating egg whites, melting sugar for confectionery, and cooking fruit mixed with sugar to make jam.) This is why copper mixing bowls, confectionery sugar melters, and jam pans don’t have silvery linings. But everyday pots and pans — saucepans, skillets, skillets, casseroles, soup pots, and so on — need to be lined.

Why aren’t copper pots lined with tin anymore?

Well, some of them still are – you can buy brand new tinned copper from Mauviel, Brooklyn Copper Cookware, Duparquet, House Copper and Rameria Mazzetti to name a few.

But tin is not a perfect material. It’s a soft metal, so you can scrape pewter if you go at it with a scouring pad and an abrasive cleaner like Comet, Bar Keeper’s Friend, Bon Ami, or Soft Scrub. (That’s also why you should never use metal utensils in a tin-lined pan.) Another problem with tin is that it starts to melt at 450°F (232°C), meaning it’s not best for frying and cooking high heat is suitable scorching.

The majority of modern copper cookware is lined with stainless steel instead of pewter because steel is better able to withstand high heat cooking and rough cleaning. But stainless steel isn’t a perfect liner material either — it’s “sticky,” meaning food will stick to it as it cooks. And steel-lined copper pots and pans reach an overall thickness of 2.5mm, meaning you’re missing out on the qualities of thick copper at 3mm or thicker.

How are pans re-tinned?

This process removes as much of the old tin as possible and reapplies a layer of molten tin. This requires intense heat, special tools and chemicals, protective gear and skill. Most importantly, the can must be exceptionally pure – 99% pure or better – to be “food safe” as a cooking surface.

How do I know if my pan needs to be re-tinned?

In my experience, pewter wears out in two ways.

First, it can wear down to the point where you can see streaks or patches of copper. (Remember that modern dishwashing detergents weren’t invented until the mid-20th century; before that, copper pots and pans were rubbed down with sand to clean them – no wonder they were re-tinned every few months!) and this is something many people repeat other copper sites) is to avoid scrubbing your tin-lined copper with abrasive sponges and detergents to preserve the tin for as long as possible. (See Caring for Old Copper for more info.) A little bit of copper isn’t a big deal, but when the exposed copper adds up to about an inch square across the entire cooking surface of the pan, it’s time for your retina.

The second way cans wear out is when they’ve been unused for a period of time – say years – and have built up an unattractive (but harmless) layer of oxidation that looks like dark, rough, dusty-looking spots. You can scrub this off with an abrasive, but you can also scrape through the remaining tin to the copper underneath. In my opinion it is better to have an old stained tin liner replaced before using it as cleaning could wear the liner down to the point where it needs to be re-tinned anyway.

When I buy a pot online I have my own decision making process on whether or not it needs re-tinning right away and this might help educate you.

Do pans lined with nickel, steel or aluminum need to be re-lined?

Steel and aluminum do not wear out like tin. Nickel is much harder than tin, but it can still wear down if you scrub or scratch it vigorously.

However, steel and aluminum lined ladles can fail and when they do they cannot be repaired. The steel or aluminum is bonded to the copper, but if the layers separate (or “delaminate”) for some reason, the pan is ruined. A steel or aluminum liner can also be attacked by salt contact, creating pinholes that can penetrate to the copper and weaken the bond between the layers.

A nickel coating is electroplated or sprayed on the copper pan body, so there is no risk of it peeling off. If the nickel were to be scraped away somehow it could theoretically be re-plated or spattered, but it’s probably more practical to tin-plate it instead.

Can I retin a pan at home?

Yes, but the heat and chemicals involved are dangerous and it takes skill and practice to apply the can in an even layer. The differences between a professionally lined pan and one made by an amateur are immediately apparent: while any hand-wiped pewter liner will always show slight swirl marks and other imperfections, a poorly made liner will be thick, uneven, dripping, and uneven. If you’re hoping to use a pan for cooking, or planning to sell or give it away, my recommendation is to have it lined by an experienced professional.

Why is post-tinning so expensive?

In my experience, several factors play a role.

Service Costs: Each retinner has a formula for the cost of preparing and relining the cup. Retinners also repair dents, tighten rivets, and solve other problems that can increase repair costs.

Each retinner has a formula for the cost of preparing and relining the cup. Retinners also repair dents, tighten rivets, and solve other problems that can increase repair costs. Shipping Costs: Copper pans are heavy and must be securely packaged, adding to the cost of shipping to and from the Retiner.

You can find ways to save on shipping, but I would advise against cutting corners on the re-tinning yourself. I did it once and it didn’t work.

Can I avoid re-tinning my copper?

No, you can’t avoid it entirely, but you can certainly extend the life of the can on your pots. I’ve put together a post on how to use and clean my tin lined copper with the sensible things that work for me.

3. Buy vintage copper

Are All Old French Copper Pots and Pans Potentially Valuable?

In my opinion, no, not all. I think of old French copper as old timers: some old cars are incredibly valuable even in a run-down condition, while others have outlived their usefulness and are sadly scrap. The distinction comes down to objective common sense as well as subjective perceptions of beauty and value. Some reasonable factors include the thickness of the copper, the physical condition of the pot, and where it came from – whether it was made by a well-known manufacturer, belonged to someone famous, or was used in a well-known restaurant. Some subjective factors can be things like perceived rarity, aesthetic appeal, and utility.

This is a really interesting topic for me, and I have a whole page on it called How I Define Collectability.

What’s the best way to find out what a piece of vintage French copper is worth?

Search eBay and Etsy to get a feel for prices of comparable pieces. In my experience, antique dealers tend to have high prices that are not representative of true market value.

Factors that increase objective value are high copper thickness, good to excellent physical condition, and an interesting history or provenance. It is fairly common to see an unrestored pot with a Gaillard or Jacquotot stamp selling for double the price of an unrestored but restored pot of exactly the same dimensions and quality.

I have more on this in an article titled “What’s That Worth?”.

What is the best way to start buying vintage French copper?

I’ve bought a lot of vintage copper from a variety of sources, and the number one piece of advice I have for you is to know yourself. Why are you interested in this stuff? do you want to cook with it Would you like to collect it? Would you like to decorate your house with it? Don’t just think about how much you’re willing to spend, but also what level of usage you can expect at the price you want. Thin copper is a lot cheaper than thick copper and can be just as beautiful for display, but it behaves very differently on the hob. Does your budget meet your expectations?

When you’re ready to buy, start with some buyer protection: So buy from marketplaces like eBay and Etsy, which have procedures in place to mediate between buyers and sellers in the event of a problem. Using PayPal for payment also adds their buyer protection to the transaction. These services add fees to the transaction, but you and the seller have a mechanism to resolve disputes and enforce guarantees.

Some eBay and Etsy sellers are copper merchants or resellers who also operate their own standalone online shops. I would like to purchase from an online independent shop from a seller with a good track record on eBay or Etsy, but I still encourage you to use PayPal for payment.

I’ve heard some disappointing stories of purchases from pop-up Instagram stores and other “lifestyle” sellers who are excellent at photographing and displaying copper that turns out to be of lower quality than expected. Outside of eBay, Etsy, and PayPal’s buyer protection structures, there is little a buyer can do if the copper has been misrepresented. Until you develop a good eye for copper and some level of trust with the sellers, I recommend sticking with regulated marketplaces that can mediate disputes.

For my specific recommendation of sellers I like, see Where to buy copper. (As always, my recommendations are based on my own experience buying copper from them and I am not compensated in any way.)

What mistakes do new buyers make?

Here are some of the issues I’ve experienced myself and heard about from others.

Don’t assume that a listing for a “thick” or “heavy” piece of copper means it’s special. Those words mean nothing. Focus on the measured thickness of the piece, know the difference between degrees of thickness, and if the seller cannot measure the thickness of the pan for you, use the weight of the piece to estimate the thickness.

Those words mean nothing. Focus on the measured thickness of the piece, know the difference between degrees of thickness, and if the seller cannot measure the thickness of the pan for you, use the weight of the piece to estimate the thickness. Not all “antique French copper” is French or antique. I often see lower quality pieces made in Portugal or Asia labeled as French and it seems anything that’s a little tarnished suddenly becomes a treasured heirloom. Use the examples on this page to learn more about the makers and their hallmarks, and for pieces that aren’t marked, develop your own eye for the French (and non-French!) aesthetic that is synonymous with quality copper .

I often see lower quality pieces made in Portugal or Asia labeled as French and it seems anything that’s a little tarnished suddenly becomes a treasured heirloom. Use the examples on this page to learn more about the makers and their hallmarks, and for pieces that aren’t marked, develop your own eye for the French (and non-French!) aesthetic that is synonymous with quality copper . Be very careful when buying mixed “unemployed” copper in the hope that valuable gems are hidden there. My experience is that at auction clearinghouses the items have already been selected and pieces shown in fuzzy, fuzzy photos often turn out to be flimsy decorative quality items. Buying this way is a quick way to collect lots of items that you don’t want to use and can’t resell.

My experience is that at auction clearinghouses the items have already been selected and pieces shown in fuzzy, fuzzy photos often turn out to be flimsy decorative quality items. Buying this way is a quick way to collect lots of items that you don’t want to use and can’t resell. Be wary of the lure of “beautiful but useless” antique or vintage copper. By that I mean useless to you – whether you want to cook or collect or both, you need to know exactly what qualities are required for your purposes or risk wasting money on temptations. For me, cooking with copper means prioritizing the thickness and physical condition of the pieces and making purchasing decisions based on the size of my household and my cooking style; Likewise, my copper collection prioritizes visual appeal and provenance of the pieces, and I make purchasing decisions based on my growing appreciation for craftsmanship, rarity, and specific eras and makers. Taking the time now to consider what you’re looking for, what goals should be your priorities, and what criteria you need to meet for your purchases will end up saving you money and frustration.

Which piece of copper should I buy first?

Okay, that previous paragraph aside, I know sometimes you just want someone to tell you what to do. So for your very first piece of copper I suggest a frying pan or rondeau, at least 2.5mm thick, lined with tin, 28cm to 30cm in diameter. This is, in my opinion, a piece of French copper that you can’t go wrong with. (Here’s mine.)

I’ve created an entire page on this topic, appropriately titled “What should I buy?”

4. Care of copper

Do I have to polish copper?

No, you don’t have to keep the outside of the pan bright and tarnish-free. You should wash and dry the pan inside and out after cooking, but as long as the copper is clean of grease, it’s perfectly fine to tarnish.

Can I put copper pans in the dishwasher?

no I mean, yes, of course you can, because it’s your pan and you can do whatever you want with it, but if you want to keep its shine, you shouldn’t do it. Washing dishes creates a chemical reaction that will corrode and dull the copper over time. (Chemically, dishwashing detergent allows ionic exchange between the copper and the metal of its liner and handles.)

It is better for the copper to wash pots and pans by hand.

Do I need anything special to wash copper?

You can use regular dish soap to wash copper pans after cooking with them, but make sure you use a non-abrasive sponge to avoid scratching the copper.

What is the best way to remove tarnish from copper?

You can use a commercial copper cleaner such as Bistro or Wright’s Copper Cleaner. It’s easiest to work on your kitchen sink, as you’ll need to rinse the pot and then wash it with soap and water. You can also use ketchup, lemon and salt – I’ve tested them and they work well for removing light tarnish.

How can I keep copper clean and shiny for display?

Metal polish is a petroleum based polish that leaves a very light coating that protects the copper from exposure to air. Apply metal polish in small dabs, rubbing in circles until it thickens and darkens, then wipe away until the copper shines. The thin layer of protection left by the polish washes off with soap and water, so I reserve polishing for parts I don’t use very often so I don’t have to polish them again. I like Simichrome, Flitz Metal Polish and Wenol, but there are many metal polish brands out there.

I have more questions. Where can I find out more?

There is a whole section on the website called “vintage copper care” that might be helpful.

What other questions would you like to see covered here? Please contact me.