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Table of Contents
Are hot water heater dip tubes universal?
The original dip tubes are definitely not all the same but that doesn’t mean you can’t replace a defect dip tube with a generic one. Some dip tubes are straight (most replacement dip tubes are) but some are curved for different reasons.
How long does a water heater dip tube last?
The dip tubes in most newer water heaters should last the lifespan of the unit (8–12 years). However, some dip tubes also function as a “sacrificial anode rod”, which means it’s designed to attract all the corrosive elements in the water, ultimately protecting the tank from corrosion.
How do you know if a dip tube is broken?
One sign of a failing dip tube is little white flecks of plastic in your hot water supply, and/or your water may not feel as hot as it used to. Dip tubes normally last as long as their water heaters, but some types of dip tubes can become brittle after spending a few years submerged in hot water.
How much does it cost to replace a dip tube?
Dip Tube – $10 to $150
The dip tube carries cold water to the bottom of the tank for heating. If the dip tube is corroded, blocked, or leaking, water heating won’t occur as efficiently. On average, a new dip tube costs about $10, and it can run up to $150 to have it repaired professionally.
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
How much will it cost? How long it will take?
It can be tempting to ignore minor issues, but it’s actually cost-effective to fix them as soon as possible. The longer a problem is ignored, the more expensive it is likely to become if the system degrades or stops working altogether.
How much does water heater repair cost? The exact amount will vary depending on the issues you are facing, the time it takes to repair, and even the technician you hired.
Common water heater repair problems
Perhaps the biggest factor in determining repair costs is the problem at hand. Some water heater problems cost more than others.
Here are some of the most common problems homeowners face with their water heaters:
Dip Tube—$10 to $150
The dip tube carries cold water to the bottom of the tank for heating. If the dip tube is corroded, clogged, or leaking, the water heating will not be as efficient.
On average, a new fork slider costs about $10, and it can cost as much as $150 to have it professionally repaired.
Pressure Relief Valve – $20 to $200
The pressure relief valve ensures that the pressure in your water tank remains at a safe level. If too much pressure builds up, this valve opens to relieve some of that pressure.
If you find that the valve is constantly leaking, it may mean that the pressure in the tank is too high, or you simply have a faulty/clogged valve.
A new pressure relief valve costs about $20 and repairs can run to $200.
Anode Bar—$20 to $50
The function of the anode rod in your water tank is to prevent corrosion. It does this by accommodating corrosion first – as long as the anode rod corrodes, your water tank and heating element will not corrode.
Once the rod is rusted, other parts of your water heater will begin to corrode.
It is recommended that you repair your anode rod about every five years, a task that will typically set you back $20-$50.
Common electric water heater repair problems
In addition to these common problems, electric heaters have their specific problems apart from other types of systems.
This can include:
Electric thermostat – $150 to $200
The thermostat controls the temperature in your water heater. When more heat is needed, the heating elements are turned on. Once the water is warm enough, the elements shut down.
If you’re noticing issues where you’re not getting much hot water, it could be a thermostat issue.
The individual part typically costs around $20, but it is recommended that you seek professional repairs, which can run up to $200.
Heating element – $200 to $300
Electric heaters use a conductive metal element to heat the water. Therefore, if the element is corroded or stops working, you will not get hot water.
Professional repairs for a heating element can cost up to $300.
Learn more about water heater repair
Common problems when repairing gas water heaters
The differences between gas and electric heaters mean that different problems can arise with gas appliances.
These problems include:
Thermocouple – $20 to $150
If the pilot light has gone out in your gas water heater, the problem is often a bad thermocouple.
The thermocouple is a device that senses if the pilot light is lit and triggers the gas control valve.
Repairs typically cost around $150 to have professionally done, although a new thermocouple itself is only around $20 on average.
Gas Control Valve – $300 to $500
Another problem that can arise is a bad gas control valve.
If neither the thermocouple nor the pilot light are bad, this is often the root cause and it can cost you as much as $500 to have a professional fix it.
It is important to replace these, expensive as the cost of replacement may be – without them the device is not safe to operate as the gas flow is not properly controlled.
Common problems when repairing water heaters
Instantaneous water heaters are a relatively new technology that can help you save on heating bills. Because they work very differently than traditional water heaters, they come with their own unique set of problems.
Professional repairs are usually required, and these often range from $150 to over $800, although the average is around $600.
Tankless water heaters require regular flushing to prevent minerals and sediment from building up inside the unit. Removing this deposit allows the unit to run more efficiently, so it is recommended that you flush your water heater tank about once a year.
The average cost of flushing and cleaning can be as much as $200.
Other costs to consider when repairing water heaters
Of course, other factors can also affect repair costs.
Most plumbers and technicians charge an hourly rate for their services, typically ranging from $50 to $150 per hour.
If your system is still under warranty, your water heater repair cost is likely to be far less than an older unit.
Learn more about our HVAC services
How long of a dip tube do I need?
Step 2: Measure dip tube length
Starting at the top of the gasket, measure down to the bottom of the tube. This will give you an overall dip tube length. Please note that it isn’t just the length of the straw or tube, it’s the length from the top of the gasket to the very bottom of the tube.
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
Believe it or not, in the packaging world there are many discrepancies regarding dip tube lengths on pumps and sprayers. One company’s 2″ fork tube is another’s 3″ fork tube; and there’s really no general consensus on the idea. While we can’t speak for others, we want to be as clear as possible on how to measure a fork tube.
Step 1: Locate the Top of the Gasket (or the Bottom of the Cap)
Locate the underside of the pump/sprayer cap – this is called the gasket. Have you found it? Yes? Congratulations! You have completed step one.
Step 2: Measure the length of the fork tube
Start at the top of the gasket and measure down to the bottom of the pipe. This gives you an overall length of the dip tube. Please note that this is not just the length of the straw or tube, it is the length from the top of the seal to the end of the tube. This is a critical distinction.
Step 3: Measure the container
Now we need the container you will use to determine how much of the tube to cut. For this we need the container height. Measure your container from the landing (rim or very top of the bottle) to the bottom. Note this length.
To get this measurement, we recommend using a ruler on the inside of your container (see graphic above). If the neck of the bottle is too small for a ruler, a straw, chopstick, or pencil can be used instead. To get the measurement this way, simply insert the straw or chopstick so it touches the bottom of the container, then mark where the item comes out of the top of the bottle. Remove the straw or chopstick and use your ruler to measure from the base to where you made your mark (see graphic above). This measurement is the inside height of your bottle.
Step 4: Decide how you want the tube to lay in the bottle
At Container we like to present options! And when it comes to trimming cylinder dip tubes, you’ve got quite a few to choose from.
Option 1: Cut the tube to leave a small gap between the dip tube and the bottom of your container. This still gives the product room to dispense.
Option 2: Bend the tube towards the tank wall to maximize product delivery.
We DO NOT recommend flush cutting for dip tubes as your own tank could clog the tube. This prevents your product from being spent, and nobody wants that!
Instead, we recommend cutting your fork tubes slightly diagonally.
Step 5: Test it by cutting it
Most fork tubes require a test. But before your palms sweat, don’t think about the 30 multiple-choice questions and 500-word essay.
We recommend physically cutting the dip tube and testing it yourself on the bottle (remember Container will send you free samples). Be careful when trimming – it’s easier than you think to cut your fork sliders too short and prevent them from working properly.
Step 6: Is it working yet?
If this is the case, repeat steps 1 and 2 to obtain the custom cut fork length. This is the number to remember when cutting the fork tubes.
Step 7: Place that order!
The best way to take this final step is to email or call, and our team is here to help! Let’s start!
Why is my water heater leaking from the overflow pipe?
A leaking overflow pipe can indicate that: The temperature setting on your water heater is too high. There is an issue inside your tank causing pressure to increase beyond the T&P valves threshold. The T&P valve is not “set” properly allowign the valve to remain partially open.
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
The drain pipe of a water heater T&P valve is sometimes referred to as the overflow pipe.
If your water heater overflow pipe is leaking, you likely have a tank pressure problem. If the pressure in your water heater gets too high, the pressure relief valve will open, forcing water out of the overflow pipe. A leaking overflow pipe can indicate the following:
The temperature setting on your water heater is too high
There is a problem in your tank that is causing the pressure to rise above the threshold of the T&P valves
The T&P valve is not “set” properly, allowing the valve to remain partially open
The T&P valve is defective
You have not installed a thermal expansion tank
We’ll help you understand why your heater is leaking from the overflow pipe and what steps you can take to reduce such occurrences.
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Is a leaking overflow pipe an emergency?
A leaking overflow pipe may not be an emergency. At least not in most cases. However, it can be an emergency if your water heater is leaking hot water at high speed or continuously.
For starters, it may harm you. Water heaters usually contain hot water. It could be an emergency if you find your home is flooded from a leak in an overflow pipe. Not only that, the hot water can also scald you. Even at the recommended setting of 120 degrees, hot water can cause severe burns.
In such cases, it is best to contact a professional plumbing service. You can still try if you have the safety equipment to stop the leak and avoid injury.
Why is hot water coming out of my overflow pipe?
Each heater has a temperature control and pressure relief valve. It has a function as the name suggests. It relieves the heater of pressure and temperature.
Most heaters have a pressure of 150 pounds per square inch and a temperature of either 120 degrees or 140 degrees. The T&P valve opens when the water heater exceeds these conditions.
The overflow pipe is responsible for passing the water on when the valve opens. A leak in the overflow pipe means your water heater is operating above the set temperature and pressure. It needs immediate attention.
What causes too much pressure in the water heater?
One of the main causes of over pressure in a water heater is a temperature that is set too high.
Manufacturers set a standard temperature of 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Users lower it to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s a comfortable setting for most people, and it gives you wiggle room to keep it from rising too high to uncontrollable levels. The Department of Energy advises lowering it to 120 degrees.
Personal safety is one of the main reasons the DOE makes such a recommendation. At 140 degrees there is a risk of scalding. Any outlet where the water comes out at such a high temperature is a potential hazard.
Aside from safety, energy saving is a good reason to set it to 120 degrees. According to the DOE’s calculations, you’re losing up to $60 annually in standby heat losses and $400 in demand losses. Bottom line, keep the temp at 120 and you’ll have fewer leaks.
The pressure can also come from the incoming water pressure. Water systems feeding the chilled water inlet sometimes have different pressure settings. The recommended water pressure should be around 80 PSI per code. Some heaters have pressures up to 100 PSI. 100 PSI is too high and can cause major damage to the heater, especially if the pressure stays constant.
When water comes under a pressure of up to 100 PSI, it is exposed to a high temperature. Elevated temperature increases pressure, causing it to either drain or damage the heater.
If the water pressure cannot be changed, you should consider purchasing a pressure reducing valve. Also, you must always have a pressure gauge on hand to check the pressure. Plug the pressure gauge into the hose attachment and it will show you the operating pressure.
How to fix an overflowing water heater?
1. Shut off electricity and/or gas
The area below the water heater should not be flooded with water unless the overflow is severe. If there is water nearby, the water heater is probably out of water and you need to turn off the gas and/or electricity immediately.
2. Check the heater for leaks
Look for leaks around the valves. If there is a leak and the heater is off, depressurize the heater by flipping the T&P valve. However, slowly turn it over. Most are vulnerable to damage if you flip them too quickly. A leak means you may need to rethread the valve with Teflon/plumbing tape.
3. Remove any deposits from the valve
Usually dirt clogs the main seal. Find out if dirt is blocking the seal by opening and closing the valve a few times. Water should drip from the overflow pipe. Flushing should remove any dirt around the seal.
Checking the seal to the valve is an important step in troubleshooting the problem.
4. Depressurize the entire system
Open a hot water faucet to depressurize the heater. Since the cold water inlet is closed, there should be a momentary flow.
Now open the overflow at the bottom of the heater. Attach a garden hose to direct the water out of the house or to your house drain. Leave the overflow open for a minute.
5. Replace the overflow pipe
Depending on the installation, you may need to cut the overflow pipe. After removing the overflow pipe, remove the old valve and install a new one that is free of debris. Reinstall the overflow tube and wrap Teflon tape around the threads.
6. Confirm all your customizations
Carry out a final check of the tightness of your valves. Open the cold water supply again and check the overflow pipe. If there is a leak, you should call a plumber.
7. Close all open taps
Close the open taps, which should now have all air and pressure released. Let the heater fill with water. Shut off the cold water supply.
8. Turn on the heater
Resume normal heating operation by turning on the heater using the main switch. Make sure the heater fills with water before turning on the gas or electricity.
What are the signs that a water heater is going bad?
Did you know you can prevent heater breakdowns with maintenance? Heaters rarely fail without warning. Look out for these signs to figure out what to fix.
Persistent Leaks – Persistent leaks are a glaring sign when your water heater is experiencing structural or mechanical problems. It could be leaking from the valves or from the tank. Once you start noticing leaks in multiple places, there is a deeper issue that you need to address. Fortunately, most leaks can be fixed with proper maintenance.
Less Hot Water – Are you running out of hot water much faster than before? It could be a sign of extreme sediment formation. You see, when sediment builds up in the water heater over a period of time, the water space is reduced. Maybe even fine crumbs of sediment come out of the hot water outlets. You need to flush your heater.
Inconsistent Water Temperature – Inconsistent water temperature can be a problem with instantaneous water heaters. This means the flow rate from the source is too low or the heater is not able to heat the water fast enough. However, if the heater has a tank, uneven water temperature is a sign of cracking water heating elements or a bad thermostat.
Brown or Discolored Water – If you notice discolored water or a brownish tint in your water, chances are your water heater has bad anode rods and the tank is rusting from the inside. Water contaminants are typically drawn to the sacrificial anode rod. If the anode rod is not replaced when it has deteriorated, the aggressive minerals in the water will begin to eat away at the tank’s inner steel liner.
Unusual Noises – Strange noises indicate a variety of possible problems. You have to take a closer look to find out the main problem. Your water heater could be overloaded with mineral deposits clogging the valves. It could also mean that your water pressure is fluctuating. In the worst case, your water heater will break from the inside and you will have to replace it.
Uneven water pressure from the drains – Low water pressure is made worse by the deterioration of the heater’s internal systems. Debris builds up quickly, continually clogging systems and impairing the printing mechanism. If you are getting low flow from the main water supply despite constant pressure, check your heater. It may break and need repairing.
Conclusion
A water heater comes with the added responsibility of routine checks. Regularly checking the pressure and temperature in your system is the line between some do-it-yourself repairs and costly replacements. The best part is that you don’t have to do the dirty work. A home inspector is well able to check your system for you and give you professional advice on what to do.
Is a dip tube the same as an anode rod?
Remove the anode rod – you’ll see on most newer water heaters that the anode rod is a separate device from the dip tube – so you won’t have to disconnect the cold water supply piping. Instead take a look at the top of the water heater and you’ll see a hexagonal head marked “Anode”.
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
Inspection and replacement of water heater anode or water heater dip tube. ASK a QUESTION or COMMENT about Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes: Water Heater Odors, Corrosion, Leaks, and Troubleshooting Lukewarm Hot Water
InspectAPedia does not tolerate conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with any advertiser, product or service discussed on this site.
This article gives a definition of water heater anodes or dip tubes, explains what they are for, how they work, and what goes wrong with anodes and dip tubes.
A corroded or damaged dip tube or water heater anode can result in hot water loss, water odor, and even scale in the building’s water supply.
A bad water heater anode can create a sulfur smell in hot water. A worn water heater anode will shorten the life of the water heater. A leaking water heater dip tube can result in less hot water being delivered to the home or dirt in the water supply line.
What is the difference between a water heater dip tube and the sacrificial anode? Are these the same parts? How to Check, Diagnose and Replace Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes.
The articles on this site will answer most questions related to domestic and light commercial water heaters, as well as many other building plumbing system inspection or defect topics. Top of page Water heater drawing showing the sacrificial anode on a water heater is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates and is used with permission.
We also provide an INDEX OF ARTICLES for this topic, or you can try the SEARCH BOX at the top or bottom of the page to quickly find the information you need.
Check the sacrificial anode and dip tube on your water heater tank
Reduced hot water pressure and flow, as well as sulfuric or similar water odors in the hot water supply, and deposits in the water supply system can all be traced to problems with a water heater anode or dip tube.
Accumulated scale in a water heater and scale from a corroded or deteriorating dip tube or sacrificial anode of a water heater can also block the hot water outlet opening, resulting in low hot water pressure in a building.
Below we will discuss water heater anode and water heater immersion tube in detail. This article describes how to diagnose and treat deposits in the building water supply resulting from a damaged water heater dip tube/anode.
Features of a water heater tank dip tube
The water heater tank dip tube, often made of a special metal to combine its function with that of a water heater tank sacrificial anode (to reduce corrosion and water tank leaks), performs these functions:
The incoming cold water is placed at the bottom of the water heater tank, closest to the heating element or burner
, closest to the heating element or burner. Incoming cold water does not dilute or cool the outgoing hot water, which normally rises by natural convection and is at the top of the hot water tank
which normally rise by natural convection and are located at the top of the hot water tank function as
a SACRIFICIAL ANODE [image] in the water tank to reduce the corrosive effects of hot water on the water tank body itself – prolonging the life of the water tank.
We discuss the sacrificial anode and water heater dip tube in more detail below.
Functions of water heater anode
By inserting a rod of a metal, which corrodes more easily than the steel of a steel water heater, into the water heater, the sacrificial anode protects the water heater from premature failure due to corrosion.
An illustration of the water heater anode is shown at the top of this page.
Low hot water temperature is attributed to a depleted dip tube and sacrificial anode combination
Under Water Heater Temperature Too Cold or Too Hot we explained that a leaking dip tube in a water tank can result in too low hot water temperatures.
But the immersion tube also acts as a sacrificial anode in many water heaters, as we show here.
Here, Carson Dunlop Associates’ sketch shows the location of the sacrificial anode dip tube on an electric water heater.
Cold water is shown entering from a pipe behind the heater and entering the bottom of the water tank.
However, some water heaters use a “dip tube” that can also serve as a sacrificial anode.
Bad dip tube can mean water is not hot enough
Caution: Another defect in the water heater can also mean that the hot water is not hot enough.
If the dip tube in the water heater has fallen off or disintegrated, cold water will enter the water heater at the top, not the bottom.
The result is a constant dilution of the hottest water in the heater (above) with incoming cold water. The result is that although the total amount of hot water remains unchanged, the hot water may only be lukewarm and not hot enough.
Sulfur or rotten egg odors in the hot water supply are attributed to problems with the water heater’s anode
The job of the sacrificial anode is to protect an enameled steel water heater itself from corrosion – the water heater’s anode rod gradually deteriorates, or basically “disintegrates” over the life of the water heater.
The water heater anode depletion rate depends on the chemistry of the water supply (more aggressive water is more corrosive) and the usage rate of the water heater – how much hot water is used in the building.
Caution: If the sacrificial anode rod of the water heater is completely dissolved or exhausted, the water tank itself is no longer protected from corrosion and the tank may be damaged and its service life may be significantly reduced.
If your hot water smells like rotten eggs, and especially if it’s only the hot water and not the cold water supply as well, you should definitely check the condition of the sacrificial anode on the water heater, no matter what the water storage tank. got it installed.
If the building’s water supply contains dissolved hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas, the combination of water chemistry and the presence of the sacrificial anode in the water heater tank can produce black deposits in the water supply and increased levels of sulfur or putrefactive egg odor in the building’s hot water supply.
Caution: H 2 S is also explosive – see details
at HYDROGEN SULFIDE GAS
In fact, even the cold water can smell like rotten eggs when there is a significant amount of H 2 S in the water supply. In our experience with private well water containing H 2 S, the odor level varied depending on the time of year, the water table in the ground, and how the well was used.
Often, after returning from a month’s vacation, the homeowner noticed a stronger rotten egg smell in the building’s water supply.
If your water supply contains high levels of hydrogen sulfide, enough to cause odor, you should check with your plumber or the manufacturer of your water heater to see if you can purchase and install a special sacrificial anode that can reduce this odor problem in the building’s hot water system.
Additional water treatment to remove sulfur may also be required.
Changing to an aluminum anode in the water heater?
Aluminum anodes are used in water heaters to replace the standard magnesium anode when the local water supply is high in sulphur. This is to avoid a problem with the formation of hydrogen sulfide gas in the water heater – a rotten egg smell.
Caution: If your water supply is both high in sulfur and alkaline, a reaction between alkaline water and an aluminum water heater anode can result in the formation of blue-green slime or gel deposits that can ultimately clog the hot water supply piping system.
If you are experiencing this problem, your water supply may need to be tested to confirm its alkalinity. You may need to install a purification system to adjust the pH of your water supply.
Corrosive water supply will shorten the life of the anode and water heater tank
If your water supply is highly conductive or corrosive, the soaking tub/sacrificial anode in the water tank can actually corrode away to the point of leaking (drop in hot water temperature) or disappearing altogether.
See details under WATER TESTING INSTRUCTIONS
Another cause of H 2 S odors in hot water can be traced to homes using a water softener to treat their incoming water supply.
Water that is rich in salt ions (a water softener can replace calcium or magnesium with sodium or salt ions to “soften” a hard water supply) can be particularly corrosive in the water heater, reducing the life of both the sacrificial anode and the water heater itself.
At ODORS in WATER we discuss the general problem of diagnosing and curing odors in water;
We provide a detailed list of sewer and sulfur gas odor sources
at SOURCES OF SULFUR ODORS IN BUILDINGS.
CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS also addresses Chinese drywall odors, sulfur odors and corrosive outgassing hazards in buildings.
There can be significant costs for removing this product, repairing or replacing electrical wiring, plumbing, and HVAC components, and there can be immediate safety concerns from damaged smoke detectors or carbon monoxide detectors in buildings where Chinese drywall has caused damage.
Procedure for inspecting a water heater sacrificial anode or dip tube
In our photo (left), our pencil is pointing at the water heater’s sacrificial anode support when looking at the water heater from above. The word “anode” is often stamped into the steel top of the water heater at this point.
In this case, the sacrificial anode is a separate component that can be removed and replaced on the hot water tank.
The dip tube, not directly visible, is located under the blue plastic ring that marks where cold water enters the water heater tank.
Whether your water heater is electric, gas fired, oil fired, or indirectly fired from another heat source, the process for inspecting and replacing the sacrificial anode is similar. Below we present the procedure.
Also for details
see DRAINING THE WATER HEATER TANK
Turn off the water heater
Close the cold water valve that allows water to enter the water heater tank
allows the water to enter the water heater tank. Open a nearby hot water faucet to relieve water pressure in the water tank.
to relieve the water pressure in the water tank. Remove the sacrificial anode – which may mean removing the combination dip tube/sacrificial anode at the top of the water heater tank.
On many water heaters, the dip tube used to direct incoming cold water to the bottom of the water heater tank is also the sacrificial anode. Therefore, it may be necessary to disconnect some plumbing fittings at the cold water inlet.
– This may mean removing the combined dip tube/sacrificial anode at the top of the water heater tank. On many water heaters, the dip tube used to direct incoming cold water to the bottom of the water heater tank is also the sacrificial anode. Therefore, it may be necessary to disconnect some plumbing fittings at the cold water inlet. Install a new sacrificial anode in your hot water tank – make sure your plumbing connections are properly cleaned and doped (or use Teflon tape) – so you don’t have to go through this process again.
How often should the water heater sacrificial anode be checked?
The water heater installation guides we examined gave intervals for inspecting (and replacing if necessary) the water heater anode rod from 3 to 10 years, which will also likely vary depending on the water heater type and model and the characteristics of the anode rod.
American Water Heater Co. recommends that the water heater sacrificial anode rod should be removed from the water heater tank every three years for inspection, and when the rod is more than 50% depleted, it should be replaced.
If the water heater is installed in an area where the water is hard, ‘aggressive’ or ‘corrosive’, inspect the water heater after 3 years or every 5 to 8 years for Rheem water heaters.
Rheem Corporation, a manufacturer of water heaters, recommends that the water heater anode be checked after 8 years (Rheemglas™, RheemPlus™) to 10 (Rheem Optima) years, depending on the water heater model.
Aluminum water heater anodes and alkaline or high pH water will cause slime build-up
Inspect the water heater for buildup of gelatinous aluminum hydroxide (AlOH) slime on the heater drain, on the anode, and for slime clogs on faucet strainers if you live in an area where the water is acidic, and especially if your water heater uses an aluminum anode .
The result can be a rumbling or popping noise, which can occur when the water heater is fairly new and has been in operation for less than six months.
At RUMBLING WATER HEATER we declare that when the water supply has a high pH (pH of 8 or higher) and the sacrificial anode in the water heater is aluminum. A high pH means the water is too alkaline or too basic (not acidic enough).
The high pH water chemically reacts with aluminum to form aluminum hydroxide (AlOH) which appears as a blue, gray or green slimy substance that collects at the bottom of the water tank as well as on the surface of the sacrificial anode.
This slime can both cause rumbling noises in the water heater – similar to those caused by limescale build-up, and clog faucets if the water heater uses an aluminum anode.
The correct repair is to flush the water heater thoroughly and then replace the aluminum anode with a sacrificial magnesium anode.
Is the anode aluminum or magnesium?
Some water heaters, such as those made by A.O. Smith, you can identify a sacrificial aluminum anode by the smooth surface of the cover plug. A magnesium anode plug or cap has a weld bead on the plug.
AOS Bulletin 14 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE [PDF] for a description of remedies for constipation caused by aluminum hydroxide sludge when mineral deposits are not present, accessed 2017-11-17 Original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/ bulletin14.pdf
There the company states:
Because aluminum hydroxide is a product of a chemical reaction dependent on the water condition, any treatment will not be considered warranty related.
How to replace the water heater anode rod – step by step
If your water heater’s sacrificial anode is corroded and pitted upon inspection, or if the bottom portion of it has completely dissolved, the anode needs to be replaced and you need to reduce the interval at which you inspect this component.
It’s a relatively minor plumbing job to disconnect water lines from the water heater and then pull and inspect the dip tube/sacrificial anode and replace if necessary.
A good time to replace the water heater dip tube or anode is when the water heater tank has been drained for some other reason, such as: B. to descale or descale the water heater (as the worker in our photo on the left is doing). ) –
see PROCEDURE FOR DESCALING WATER HEATER.
Safety Warning: Do not attempt to descale or descale an electric water heater without first making sure the descaling chemical does not come in contact with the sacrificial anode—an explosion or fire could result.
The water heater anode location for the purpose of removal or replacement on most water heaters is accessible from the water heater tank.
In our sketch of a water heater showing the anode location, the anode (red arrow) is inserted into the water heater’s tank cap at the location indicated by the green arrow.
Typically this location is marked as the “anode” on the top of the water heater.
Here are the detailed steps to replace a water heater anode rod:
The water heater is off.
Turn off the cold water supply line entering the water heater tank.
Open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the hot water tank.
Connect a garden hose to the water heater tank drain valve – located near the bottom of the water heater tank. Run the hose outside or to a suitable floor drain.
You can run the hose to a nearby sink only if the height of the sink rim (which the hose must pass over) is a few feet lower than the top of the water heater tank.
Elevating the hose will prevent the water heater tank from draining.
If your water heater’s drain valve is high enough off the ground, you can skip the hose connection and just use a plastic tub or bucket like we show in our photo (below).
Using the water heater drain valve just described, drain five gallons of water from the heater.
Close the water heater drain valve.
Remove the anode rod – you will see on most newer water heaters that the anode rod is a separate device from the dip tube – this way you don’t have to disconnect the cold water supply line. Instead, take a look at the top of the water heater and you’ll see a hexagonal head that says “anode.”
Unscrew the rod and screw in the replacement using Teflon tape or pipe paste.
Open the cold water supply to the water heater and check for leaks.
Turn the water heater back on.
Some water heaters do not have a sacrificial anode rod. Instead, these water heaters can use a chemically inert anode rod that is supplied with electrical energy to achieve the same anti-corrosion function.
Be sure to disconnect power from the anode rod before attempting to clean the water heater and ensure power is restored after the tank is returned to service.
See also WATER HEATER FLUSHING PROCEDURE where we describe the effects of a damaged plastic water heater immersion tube.
How long should a water heater last?
For the answer, see Water Heater Age and our list of factors that affect water heater lifespan.
Also check out our list of types of water heater leaks
at WATER HEATER LEAK REPAIR
Questions and answers for readers – see also the FAQ series linked below
That looks like a cluster of mineral rock fragments, Jo.
The other possibility (less likely in this case due to the crystalline appearance of your white fragments) is a damaged white plastic dip tube in the water heater.
Above in the ARTICLES INDEX section with more reading material you might want to check out
WATER HEATER DIRT FLUSHING
WATER HEATER FLUSHING PROCEDURE
DECALCIFICATION PROCEDURE FOR WATER HEATING APPLIANCES
I’ve also seen deposits like this from water heaters when the dip tube or sacrificial anode has deteriorated – which also shows up as deposits clogging sink strainers and showerheads.
It would be helpful if you could tell me through which opening you are viewing this white dirt in your water heater.
I’ve had some issues with my water heater and went through helmets every 6 months and just this week I switched back but found some particles in the tank I had attached
Bill said:
Have you ever tried an electric anode stick? I just bought a Corroprotect a few months ago and it works very well.
Thanks for your thoughts on this, Don.
The bacteria in a water heater may or may not be harmless, as you suspect, depending on the specific species: There is more than one bacterium that can be found in a water heater. An anaerobic bacterium is common, also a sulfate-reducing bacterium that produces H2S – hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell). As you quoted, these two most common bacteria are considered to be more of a nuisance (smelly) than a health hazard.
But be careful: the claim that boiler bacteria are necessarily harmless is wrong and dangerous. Legionella pneumophila is also found in water heaters, for example – it causes Legionnaires’ disease, which can even be fatal for some people.
See this article: Legionella BACTERIA in WATER HEATER
Bradford White, manufacturer of water heaters, recommends these steps PROVIDED that the odor problem is just the harmless bacterial problem you are describing. There can of course be other sources of water odors that may also be unsafe.
BW recommends:
Removing the magnesium anode and replacing it with a Bradford White A420 anode bar can minimize the problem. Complete removal of the anode (magnesium or aluminum) will void the warranty and shorten the life of the tank. – www.bradfordwhite.com/hydrogen-sulfide-odor-and-chlorinating-water-heaters-109
I agree with this very significant fact offered by Bradford White:
The only satisfactory way to combat hydrogen sulfide odor is to combat the bacteria.
Properly chlorinated public water supplies usually kill the bacteria. A private well system can be contaminated, but typically it is the pneumatic tank and plumbing that are contaminated.
A contaminated system can be decontaminated by using a chlorine injector or other cleaning systems such as ultraviolet. This destroys the bacteria.
Your point is that the odor problem often arises before the water heater itself.
Your steps to combat the odor are similar to those offered in the articles here on InspectApedia.com
The following steps describe the correct procedure for chlorinating a water heater:
Turn off the water, electricity, or gas supply to the water heater.
Drain several gallons of water from the drain valve on the water heater.
Remove the magnesium anode rod.
Pour ½ to 1 gallon of bleach into the water heater through the hot water outlet.
Install the [Bradford White] A420 anode bar.
Reconnect the hot water supply line to the hot water outlet on the water heater.
Turn on the water supply and draw water from each hot water faucet in the home until you smell chlorine.
As soon as the smell of chlorine is noticed, turn off the faucets and allow the bleach to sit in the water heater and plumbing for at least 3 hours, but a full day is desirable.
After step 8 is complete, turn on water at each hot water faucet in the home and draw water until there is no smell of chlorine.
Turn on the electricity or gas to the water heater.
Once all of these steps have been followed, the water heater can be returned to its normal operating function. If you need to chlorinate your well system or other water system, contact your plumber or the supplier of that water system. If you have additional questions, you can call our technical support staff at 800-334-3393.
…
Continue reading at WATER HEATER DEBRIS FLUSH or select a topic from the closely related articles below or view the full ARTICLE INDEX.
Or view the Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes FAQ – Water Heater Anode Rod Questions and Answers originally posted at the bottom of this page.
Or look at these
Featured Articles
Suggested citation for this website
ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATER at Inspect A pedia.com – online encyclopedia of building and environmental inspection, testing, diagnostics, repair and advice on how to avoid problems.
Or see this
INDEX TO RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER HEATER
Or use the SEARCH BOX below to ask a question or search InspectApedia
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Technical reviewers & references
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Why do I run out of hot water when taking a shower?
If your shower runs out of hot water quickly and frequently, your water heater might be too old. On average, a water heater can last between eight to 12 years. If yours is ten years old or more, it’s time to replace your water heater.
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
When you’re enjoying a warm and refreshing shower, one of the worst things that can happen is when the hot water suddenly runs out – leaving you freezing and demanding answers. There are a variety of factors that can cause hot water to run out too quickly.
The following are the most common reasons you might run out of hot water:
Multiple Appliances Using Hot Water Running Simultaneously – If someone is using hot water in the kitchen sink or other areas of the house while you are taking a shower, running multiple hot water appliances at the same time can cause freezing cold water to flow out of your shower. Washing machines and dishwashers are the main culprits, so avoid using hot water appliances before showering. Sediment Buildup – Sediments made up of loose minerals such as sand and rust build up naturally in our water supply and settle to the bottom of the water heater tank. However, sediment can sometimes take up too much space, leaving less room for hot water. Additionally, these minerals insulate the tank water from the heat source, which is located at the bottom of the tank. To solve this problem, a professional can drain your water heater and flush out any sediment. Broken Dip Tube – The dip tube causes the cold water in the water heater to move to the bottom of the tank to be heated. If the dip tube is broken, the cold water will rise to the top of the tank, meaning it cannot be heated properly. If you find small pieces of plastic in the shower head, strainer, and filter screens of water appliances, you may have a broken dip tube that needs replacing. Old Water Heater – All appliances have a shelf life, even water heaters. If your shower runs out of hot water quickly and frequently, your water heater may be old. On average, a water heater can last between eight and 12 years. If your appliance is ten years or older, it’s time to replace your water heater. Thermostat problem – Not only does your home have a thermostat, but so does your water heater. If you’re running out of hot water, try resetting your water heater’s thermostat. If the problem persists, increase the thermostat temperature to see if your water heater is at the wrong temperature. If that doesn’t work, contact a plumber to diagnose the problem.
Discover our water heater services
If you want to avoid running out of hot water when you need it most, consider installing a water heater. Not only do you have an unlimited supply of hot water whenever you need it, but you can still access hot water while running multiple appliances — and even multiple showers — at the same time. In addition, instantaneous water heaters save you more money over time and last longer than traditional models.
If you are having hot water issues or are interested in installing a water heater in your home, contact our Ontario plumbing team at All Pro Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electrical today.
Is a dip tube the same as an anode rod?
Remove the anode rod – you’ll see on most newer water heaters that the anode rod is a separate device from the dip tube – so you won’t have to disconnect the cold water supply piping. Instead take a look at the top of the water heater and you’ll see a hexagonal head marked “Anode”.
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
Inspection and replacement of water heater anode or water heater dip tube. ASK a QUESTION or COMMENT about Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes: Water Heater Odors, Corrosion, Leaks, and Troubleshooting Lukewarm Hot Water
InspectAPedia does not tolerate conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with any advertiser, product or service discussed on this site.
This article gives a definition of water heater anodes or dip tubes, explains what they are for, how they work, and what goes wrong with anodes and dip tubes.
A corroded or damaged dip tube or water heater anode can result in hot water loss, water odor, and even scale in the building’s water supply.
A bad water heater anode can create a sulfur smell in hot water. A worn water heater anode will shorten the life of the water heater. A leaking water heater dip tube can result in less hot water being delivered to the home or dirt in the water supply line.
What is the difference between a water heater dip tube and the sacrificial anode? Are these the same parts? How to Check, Diagnose and Replace Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes.
The articles on this site will answer most questions related to domestic and light commercial water heaters, as well as many other building plumbing system inspection or defect topics. Top of page Water heater drawing showing the sacrificial anode on a water heater is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates and is used with permission.
We also provide an INDEX OF ARTICLES for this topic, or you can try the SEARCH BOX at the top or bottom of the page to quickly find the information you need.
Check the sacrificial anode and dip tube on your water heater tank
Reduced hot water pressure and flow, as well as sulfuric or similar water odors in the hot water supply, and deposits in the water supply system can all be traced to problems with a water heater anode or dip tube.
Accumulated scale in a water heater and scale from a corroded or deteriorating dip tube or sacrificial anode of a water heater can also block the hot water outlet opening, resulting in low hot water pressure in a building.
Below we will discuss water heater anode and water heater immersion tube in detail. This article describes how to diagnose and treat deposits in the building water supply resulting from a damaged water heater dip tube/anode.
Features of a water heater tank dip tube
The water heater tank dip tube, often made of a special metal to combine its function with that of a water heater tank sacrificial anode (to reduce corrosion and water tank leaks), performs these functions:
The incoming cold water is placed at the bottom of the water heater tank, closest to the heating element or burner
, closest to the heating element or burner. Incoming cold water does not dilute or cool the outgoing hot water, which normally rises by natural convection and is at the top of the hot water tank
which normally rise by natural convection and are located at the top of the hot water tank function as
a SACRIFICIAL ANODE [image] in the water tank to reduce the corrosive effects of hot water on the water tank body itself – prolonging the life of the water tank.
We discuss the sacrificial anode and water heater dip tube in more detail below.
Functions of water heater anode
By inserting a rod of a metal, which corrodes more easily than the steel of a steel water heater, into the water heater, the sacrificial anode protects the water heater from premature failure due to corrosion.
An illustration of the water heater anode is shown at the top of this page.
Low hot water temperature is attributed to a depleted dip tube and sacrificial anode combination
Under Water Heater Temperature Too Cold or Too Hot we explained that a leaking dip tube in a water tank can result in too low hot water temperatures.
But the immersion tube also acts as a sacrificial anode in many water heaters, as we show here.
Here, Carson Dunlop Associates’ sketch shows the location of the sacrificial anode dip tube on an electric water heater.
Cold water is shown entering from a pipe behind the heater and entering the bottom of the water tank.
However, some water heaters use a “dip tube” that can also serve as a sacrificial anode.
Bad dip tube can mean water is not hot enough
Caution: Another defect in the water heater can also mean that the hot water is not hot enough.
If the dip tube in the water heater has fallen off or disintegrated, cold water will enter the water heater at the top, not the bottom.
The result is a constant dilution of the hottest water in the heater (above) with incoming cold water. The result is that although the total amount of hot water remains unchanged, the hot water may only be lukewarm and not hot enough.
Sulfur or rotten egg odors in the hot water supply are attributed to problems with the water heater’s anode
The job of the sacrificial anode is to protect an enameled steel water heater itself from corrosion – the water heater’s anode rod gradually deteriorates, or basically “disintegrates” over the life of the water heater.
The water heater anode depletion rate depends on the chemistry of the water supply (more aggressive water is more corrosive) and the usage rate of the water heater – how much hot water is used in the building.
Caution: If the sacrificial anode rod of the water heater is completely dissolved or exhausted, the water tank itself is no longer protected from corrosion and the tank may be damaged and its service life may be significantly reduced.
If your hot water smells like rotten eggs, and especially if it’s only the hot water and not the cold water supply as well, you should definitely check the condition of the sacrificial anode on the water heater, no matter what the water storage tank. got it installed.
If the building’s water supply contains dissolved hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas, the combination of water chemistry and the presence of the sacrificial anode in the water heater tank can produce black deposits in the water supply and increased levels of sulfur or putrefactive egg odor in the building’s hot water supply.
Caution: H 2 S is also explosive – see details
at HYDROGEN SULFIDE GAS
In fact, even the cold water can smell like rotten eggs when there is a significant amount of H 2 S in the water supply. In our experience with private well water containing H 2 S, the odor level varied depending on the time of year, the water table in the ground, and how the well was used.
Often, after returning from a month’s vacation, the homeowner noticed a stronger rotten egg smell in the building’s water supply.
If your water supply contains high levels of hydrogen sulfide, enough to cause odor, you should check with your plumber or the manufacturer of your water heater to see if you can purchase and install a special sacrificial anode that can reduce this odor problem in the building’s hot water system.
Additional water treatment to remove sulfur may also be required.
Changing to an aluminum anode in the water heater?
Aluminum anodes are used in water heaters to replace the standard magnesium anode when the local water supply is high in sulphur. This is to avoid a problem with the formation of hydrogen sulfide gas in the water heater – a rotten egg smell.
Caution: If your water supply is both high in sulfur and alkaline, a reaction between alkaline water and an aluminum water heater anode can result in the formation of blue-green slime or gel deposits that can ultimately clog the hot water supply piping system.
If you are experiencing this problem, your water supply may need to be tested to confirm its alkalinity. You may need to install a purification system to adjust the pH of your water supply.
Corrosive water supply will shorten the life of the anode and water heater tank
If your water supply is highly conductive or corrosive, the soaking tub/sacrificial anode in the water tank can actually corrode away to the point of leaking (drop in hot water temperature) or disappearing altogether.
See details under WATER TESTING INSTRUCTIONS
Another cause of H 2 S odors in hot water can be traced to homes using a water softener to treat their incoming water supply.
Water that is rich in salt ions (a water softener can replace calcium or magnesium with sodium or salt ions to “soften” a hard water supply) can be particularly corrosive in the water heater, reducing the life of both the sacrificial anode and the water heater itself.
At ODORS in WATER we discuss the general problem of diagnosing and curing odors in water;
We provide a detailed list of sewer and sulfur gas odor sources
at SOURCES OF SULFUR ODORS IN BUILDINGS.
CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS also addresses Chinese drywall odors, sulfur odors and corrosive outgassing hazards in buildings.
There can be significant costs for removing this product, repairing or replacing electrical wiring, plumbing, and HVAC components, and there can be immediate safety concerns from damaged smoke detectors or carbon monoxide detectors in buildings where Chinese drywall has caused damage.
Procedure for inspecting a water heater sacrificial anode or dip tube
In our photo (left), our pencil is pointing at the water heater’s sacrificial anode support when looking at the water heater from above. The word “anode” is often stamped into the steel top of the water heater at this point.
In this case, the sacrificial anode is a separate component that can be removed and replaced on the hot water tank.
The dip tube, not directly visible, is located under the blue plastic ring that marks where cold water enters the water heater tank.
Whether your water heater is electric, gas fired, oil fired, or indirectly fired from another heat source, the process for inspecting and replacing the sacrificial anode is similar. Below we present the procedure.
Also for details
see DRAINING THE WATER HEATER TANK
Turn off the water heater
Close the cold water valve that allows water to enter the water heater tank
allows the water to enter the water heater tank. Open a nearby hot water faucet to relieve water pressure in the water tank.
to relieve the water pressure in the water tank. Remove the sacrificial anode – which may mean removing the combination dip tube/sacrificial anode at the top of the water heater tank.
On many water heaters, the dip tube used to direct incoming cold water to the bottom of the water heater tank is also the sacrificial anode. Therefore, it may be necessary to disconnect some plumbing fittings at the cold water inlet.
– This may mean removing the combined dip tube/sacrificial anode at the top of the water heater tank. On many water heaters, the dip tube used to direct incoming cold water to the bottom of the water heater tank is also the sacrificial anode. Therefore, it may be necessary to disconnect some plumbing fittings at the cold water inlet. Install a new sacrificial anode in your hot water tank – make sure your plumbing connections are properly cleaned and doped (or use Teflon tape) – so you don’t have to go through this process again.
How often should the water heater sacrificial anode be checked?
The water heater installation guides we examined gave intervals for inspecting (and replacing if necessary) the water heater anode rod from 3 to 10 years, which will also likely vary depending on the water heater type and model and the characteristics of the anode rod.
American Water Heater Co. recommends that the water heater sacrificial anode rod should be removed from the water heater tank every three years for inspection, and when the rod is more than 50% depleted, it should be replaced.
If the water heater is installed in an area where the water is hard, ‘aggressive’ or ‘corrosive’, inspect the water heater after 3 years or every 5 to 8 years for Rheem water heaters.
Rheem Corporation, a manufacturer of water heaters, recommends that the water heater anode be checked after 8 years (Rheemglas™, RheemPlus™) to 10 (Rheem Optima) years, depending on the water heater model.
Aluminum water heater anodes and alkaline or high pH water will cause slime build-up
Inspect the water heater for buildup of gelatinous aluminum hydroxide (AlOH) slime on the heater drain, on the anode, and for slime clogs on faucet strainers if you live in an area where the water is acidic, and especially if your water heater uses an aluminum anode .
The result can be a rumbling or popping noise, which can occur when the water heater is fairly new and has been in operation for less than six months.
At RUMBLING WATER HEATER we declare that when the water supply has a high pH (pH of 8 or higher) and the sacrificial anode in the water heater is aluminum. A high pH means the water is too alkaline or too basic (not acidic enough).
The high pH water chemically reacts with aluminum to form aluminum hydroxide (AlOH) which appears as a blue, gray or green slimy substance that collects at the bottom of the water tank as well as on the surface of the sacrificial anode.
This slime can both cause rumbling noises in the water heater – similar to those caused by limescale build-up, and clog faucets if the water heater uses an aluminum anode.
The correct repair is to flush the water heater thoroughly and then replace the aluminum anode with a sacrificial magnesium anode.
Is the anode aluminum or magnesium?
Some water heaters, such as those made by A.O. Smith, you can identify a sacrificial aluminum anode by the smooth surface of the cover plug. A magnesium anode plug or cap has a weld bead on the plug.
AOS Bulletin 14 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE [PDF] for a description of remedies for constipation caused by aluminum hydroxide sludge when mineral deposits are not present, accessed 2017-11-17 Original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/ bulletin14.pdf
There the company states:
Because aluminum hydroxide is a product of a chemical reaction dependent on the water condition, any treatment will not be considered warranty related.
How to replace the water heater anode rod – step by step
If your water heater’s sacrificial anode is corroded and pitted upon inspection, or if the bottom portion of it has completely dissolved, the anode needs to be replaced and you need to reduce the interval at which you inspect this component.
It’s a relatively minor plumbing job to disconnect water lines from the water heater and then pull and inspect the dip tube/sacrificial anode and replace if necessary.
A good time to replace the water heater dip tube or anode is when the water heater tank has been drained for some other reason, such as: B. to descale or descale the water heater (as the worker in our photo on the left is doing). ) –
see PROCEDURE FOR DESCALING WATER HEATER.
Safety Warning: Do not attempt to descale or descale an electric water heater without first making sure the descaling chemical does not come in contact with the sacrificial anode—an explosion or fire could result.
The water heater anode location for the purpose of removal or replacement on most water heaters is accessible from the water heater tank.
In our sketch of a water heater showing the anode location, the anode (red arrow) is inserted into the water heater’s tank cap at the location indicated by the green arrow.
Typically this location is marked as the “anode” on the top of the water heater.
Here are the detailed steps to replace a water heater anode rod:
The water heater is off.
Turn off the cold water supply line entering the water heater tank.
Open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the hot water tank.
Connect a garden hose to the water heater tank drain valve – located near the bottom of the water heater tank. Run the hose outside or to a suitable floor drain.
You can run the hose to a nearby sink only if the height of the sink rim (which the hose must pass over) is a few feet lower than the top of the water heater tank.
Elevating the hose will prevent the water heater tank from draining.
If your water heater’s drain valve is high enough off the ground, you can skip the hose connection and just use a plastic tub or bucket like we show in our photo (below).
Using the water heater drain valve just described, drain five gallons of water from the heater.
Close the water heater drain valve.
Remove the anode rod – you will see on most newer water heaters that the anode rod is a separate device from the dip tube – this way you don’t have to disconnect the cold water supply line. Instead, take a look at the top of the water heater and you’ll see a hexagonal head that says “anode.”
Unscrew the rod and screw in the replacement using Teflon tape or pipe paste.
Open the cold water supply to the water heater and check for leaks.
Turn the water heater back on.
Some water heaters do not have a sacrificial anode rod. Instead, these water heaters can use a chemically inert anode rod that is supplied with electrical energy to achieve the same anti-corrosion function.
Be sure to disconnect power from the anode rod before attempting to clean the water heater and ensure power is restored after the tank is returned to service.
See also WATER HEATER FLUSHING PROCEDURE where we describe the effects of a damaged plastic water heater immersion tube.
How long should a water heater last?
For the answer, see Water Heater Age and our list of factors that affect water heater lifespan.
Also check out our list of types of water heater leaks
at WATER HEATER LEAK REPAIR
Questions and answers for readers – see also the FAQ series linked below
That looks like a cluster of mineral rock fragments, Jo.
The other possibility (less likely in this case due to the crystalline appearance of your white fragments) is a damaged white plastic dip tube in the water heater.
Above in the ARTICLES INDEX section with more reading material you might want to check out
WATER HEATER DIRT FLUSHING
WATER HEATER FLUSHING PROCEDURE
DECALCIFICATION PROCEDURE FOR WATER HEATING APPLIANCES
I’ve also seen deposits like this from water heaters when the dip tube or sacrificial anode has deteriorated – which also shows up as deposits clogging sink strainers and showerheads.
It would be helpful if you could tell me through which opening you are viewing this white dirt in your water heater.
I’ve had some issues with my water heater and went through helmets every 6 months and just this week I switched back but found some particles in the tank I had attached
Bill said:
Have you ever tried an electric anode stick? I just bought a Corroprotect a few months ago and it works very well.
Thanks for your thoughts on this, Don.
The bacteria in a water heater may or may not be harmless, as you suspect, depending on the specific species: There is more than one bacterium that can be found in a water heater. An anaerobic bacterium is common, also a sulfate-reducing bacterium that produces H2S – hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell). As you quoted, these two most common bacteria are considered to be more of a nuisance (smelly) than a health hazard.
But be careful: the claim that boiler bacteria are necessarily harmless is wrong and dangerous. Legionella pneumophila is also found in water heaters, for example – it causes Legionnaires’ disease, which can even be fatal for some people.
See this article: Legionella BACTERIA in WATER HEATER
Bradford White, manufacturer of water heaters, recommends these steps PROVIDED that the odor problem is just the harmless bacterial problem you are describing. There can of course be other sources of water odors that may also be unsafe.
BW recommends:
Removing the magnesium anode and replacing it with a Bradford White A420 anode bar can minimize the problem. Complete removal of the anode (magnesium or aluminum) will void the warranty and shorten the life of the tank. – www.bradfordwhite.com/hydrogen-sulfide-odor-and-chlorinating-water-heaters-109
I agree with this very significant fact offered by Bradford White:
The only satisfactory way to combat hydrogen sulfide odor is to combat the bacteria.
Properly chlorinated public water supplies usually kill the bacteria. A private well system can be contaminated, but typically it is the pneumatic tank and plumbing that are contaminated.
A contaminated system can be decontaminated by using a chlorine injector or other cleaning systems such as ultraviolet. This destroys the bacteria.
Your point is that the odor problem often arises before the water heater itself.
Your steps to combat the odor are similar to those offered in the articles here on InspectApedia.com
The following steps describe the correct procedure for chlorinating a water heater:
Turn off the water, electricity, or gas supply to the water heater.
Drain several gallons of water from the drain valve on the water heater.
Remove the magnesium anode rod.
Pour ½ to 1 gallon of bleach into the water heater through the hot water outlet.
Install the [Bradford White] A420 anode bar.
Reconnect the hot water supply line to the hot water outlet on the water heater.
Turn on the water supply and draw water from each hot water faucet in the home until you smell chlorine.
As soon as the smell of chlorine is noticed, turn off the faucets and allow the bleach to sit in the water heater and plumbing for at least 3 hours, but a full day is desirable.
After step 8 is complete, turn on water at each hot water faucet in the home and draw water until there is no smell of chlorine.
Turn on the electricity or gas to the water heater.
Once all of these steps have been followed, the water heater can be returned to its normal operating function. If you need to chlorinate your well system or other water system, contact your plumber or the supplier of that water system. If you have additional questions, you can call our technical support staff at 800-334-3393.
…
Continue reading at WATER HEATER DEBRIS FLUSH or select a topic from the closely related articles below or view the full ARTICLE INDEX.
Or view the Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes FAQ – Water Heater Anode Rod Questions and Answers originally posted at the bottom of this page.
Or look at these
Featured Articles
Suggested citation for this website
ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATER at Inspect A pedia.com – online encyclopedia of building and environmental inspection, testing, diagnostics, repair and advice on how to avoid problems.
Or see this
INDEX TO RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER HEATER
Or use the SEARCH BOX below to ask a question or search InspectApedia
…
Ask a question or search InspectApedia
Water Heater Anodes and Dip Tubes Questions and Answers or Comments: Water Heater Odors, Corrosion, Leaks, and Troubleshooting Lukewarm Hot Water.
Try the search box just below, or post a question or comment in the comment box below and we’ll respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
Note: There may be a delay in the appearance of your comment below: If your comment contains an image, a web link, or text that appears to the software to be a web link, your post will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. sorry for the delay Our comments field is provided by Countable Web Productions countable.ca
Technical reviewers & references
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Dip Tube Issues – How To Replace a Hot Water Tank Dip Tube
See some more details on the topic ao smith water heater dip tube replacement here:
Dip Tube Removal/Replacement – AO Smith GPVL-50 Service …
DIP TUBE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT · 1. Use Tefl on · 2. Place the dip tube into the spud on top of the tank · 3. Apply Tefl on · 4. Turn the main water supply back on.
Source: www.manualslib.com
Date Published: 7/30/2022
View: 3492
Shop AO Smith Water Heater Hose, Tube & Fitting Parts
Find AO Smith Water Heater Hose, Tube & Fitting Replacement Parts at RepairClinic.com. Repair for less! Fast, same day shipping.
Source: www.repairclinic.com
Date Published: 3/2/2021
View: 7233
Water Heater Dip Tube – Home Improvement
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Santa Fe, TX SandShark5 Premium Member Water heater dip tube
Took a trip to the local Lowe’s Depot, asked one of the orange vests if they wear them, and he looked at me like I was from Mars.
So I guess I’ll have to wait until Monday and get one from a plumbing supplier. But before I go to one and ask for a dip tube, I’d like to at least pretend I know what I’m talking about. I don’t want to seem like a fool. Are all water heater immersion tubes the same or are they manufacturer specific? Took a trip to the local Lowe’s Depot, asked one of the orange vests if they wore them, and he looked at me like I was from Mars. So I guess I have to wait until Monday and pick one up from a plumbing supplier. But before I go to one and ask for a dip tube, I’d like to at least pretend I know what I’m talking about. I don’t want to seem like a fool.
Jodokast96
Stupid people annoy me.
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NJ Jodokast96 Premium Member Are you sure you didn’t live in my basement? This has been on my to-do list for 2 weeks now and I wanted to get it done this Tuesday. Let me know how you’re doing if you don’t mind. At least now I know I can’t waste a trip to Lowes on this.
tberg
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Greenville, SC 2 recommends tberg at SandShark5
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See » www.waterheaterrescue.com . There is a lot to learn on its pages.
sand shark5
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Santa Fe, TX 1 Edit SandShark5 Premium Member Thanks. From this page it appears that they are standardized.
sempergoofy
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Smyrna, GA sempergoofy to tberg
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said von tberg: See »www.waterheaterrescue.com. There is a lot to learn on its pages.
Agree. I have used them in the past for an anode rod replacement. They explain on their page for ordering replacement fork tubes that it can be cut to length. So referring to SandShark5’s initial question, the length doesn’t seem to be standard from manufacturer to manufacturer. But the implication is that the physical connection is.
PrntRhd
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Fairfield, CA PrntRhd to SandShark5
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The boys in the orange vest are with HD, not Lowes
sand shark5
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Santa Fe, TX SandShark5 Premium Member Read it again.
robbery
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Leander, TX Robbin Mod So where did you ask – Home Depot or Lowes?
sand shark5
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Santa Fe, TX SandShark5 Premium Member I asked Home Depot (orange vests) because I was there. I called Lowe’s because I didn’t want to make an unnecessary trip. The nearest was 15 miles away. Also, after I got home, I called every Ace Hardware in my area (6 of them). None had them, although they appear on the Ace Hardware website. I also called McCoy’s.
tp0d
jabbazooie
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Bulger, Pa. Windstream
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»www.waterheaterparts.com ··· =%20&SN=
(Part # 9001596005 if not shown)
I buy parts here but with a multiplier of 0.5…heh
-j Here is a standard fork tube, 52 inches long, trimmable for shorter lengths. It’s the new style, PEX pipe, without the extra nipple. (the most typical style) Pipe should be 4″ above the bottom of the tank for electric and 8″ above the top of the combustion chamber for gas. (part number 9001596005 if it doesn’t show) I buy parts here but with a multiplier of 0.5 .Heh-j
leibold
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said by SandShark5: Are all water heater dip tubes the same or are they manufacturer specific?
Some lower legs are straight (most replacement lower legs are), but some are curved for other reasons. I’ve seen water heaters advertise a dip tube design to minimize sediment at the bottom of the tank (benefit is there is less sediment in the hot water leaving the tank, downside is you should flush the tank regularly as recommended ). removal of sediment deposits). I’ve also seen water heaters advertise the opposite type of dip tube to ensure that the incoming water is set in a circular/spiral motion at the bottom of the tank to minimize sediment buildup (floating and hot water rinse). use).
I don’t like the “safety” dip tubes which have an opening at the top of the tank (force mixing of hot and cold water to avoid scalding). There’s no way to get a nice hot shower when the water from the tank is already only lukewarm. The original fork sliders are definitely not all created equal, but that doesn’t mean you can’t replace a defective fork slider with a generic one. Some fork tubes are straight (most replacement fork tubes are), but some are bent for various reasons. I’ve seen water heaters advertise a dip tube design to minimize sediment at the bottom of the tank (benefit is there is less sediment in the hot water leaving the tank, downside is you should flush the tank regularly as recommended ). removal of sediment deposits). I’ve also seen water heaters advertise the opposite type of dip tube to ensure that the incoming water is set in a circular/spiral motion at the bottom of the tank to minimize sediment buildup (floating and hot water rinse). I don’t like the “safety” dip tubes which have an opening at the top of the tank (force mixing of hot and cold water to avoid scalding). There’s no way to get a nice hot shower when the water from the tank is already only lukewarm.
tp0d
jabbazooie
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Bulger, Pa. Windstream
tp0d Premium Member The opening at the top of a dip tube (usually a 1/8″ hole) is an antisiphon hole to prevent siphoning in the event of a water pressure failure.
Other, newer tubes have extra holes to prevent “stacking” of superheated water in the tank. Typically, stacking in tall, thin tanks is a problem when short hot draws are used indoors.
The sediment cleaning tubes are quite rare and don’t work really well.
-j
mites
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Dallas, TX mite fowl to SandShark5
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So let’s talk about decay and failure.
I don’t have any scientific measurements but I think the water quality is causing the pipes to fail.
I’ve never replaced a tube in Dallas in 28 years. 2 water heaters.
tp0d
jabbazooie
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Bulger, Pa. Windstream
1 edit tp0d Premium Member Chlorine and chloramides break down the plastic on the older style light blue tubing… newer ones, c. 2000 onwards are all PEX which is pretty much impervious to anything… they can be folded in half and installed, and will straighten out in the tank. older styles would break under this treatment.
-j
ken
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All of our local stores stock the fork sliders. They are in the same aisle as the water heaters. There is usually a length of 4 inch PVC pipe about 4 feet high attached to one of the posts in the aisle with a bundle of dip tubes in it. Easy to overlook, and chances are the employees don’t even know what they are.
tp0d
jabbazooie
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Bulger, Pa. Windstream
1 edit tp0d Premium Member You might want to double check that, Ken… I bet they’re just a relief drained from tubes. Dip tubes are not a normal interchangeable item.
Edit – If they are blue with a galv nipple on one end, a dip tube would have double threads while a relief tube would only have one set of threads.
-j
ken
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Markle, IN Ken MVM I will check next time
ArthurS
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Hamilton, ON ArthurS to SandShark5
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The local home depot and the Lowes here run them. Otherwise, you can order them from the water heater rescue.
The bigger question is how do you remove the old one from the tank? You’ll have to use some crazy glue on the threads because it’s almost impossible to undo it even with a monster wrench! Does anyone have a hint?
sand shark5
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Santa Fe, TX SandShark5 to Ken
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That’s entirely possible, although I’ve walked up and down the aisles several times without seeing them. Eventually I found the staff “plumber” insisting they were called “filling tubes”. He asked why I needed one because he said in his thirty years as a plumber he may have replaced two fill/dip tubes. After I explained why I needed one, he agreed with my diagnosis.
Also, no matter what search term I used (fill tube or dip tube), I didn’t get any hits on Home Depot or Lowe’s. Since you posted I’ve called a couple of Lowe’s and believe it or not they carry them but they were out of stock. So that’s positive. Still, I’ll probably go to a plumber’s and pick one up this week. This will be my next weekend project.
tp0d
jabbazooie
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Bulger, Pa. Windstream
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»www.channellock.com/480-ier.aspx
SandShark: What are your symptoms exactly? And how old is the tank
-j Aurthur: Yes, you need a monster wrench.. Bigass channel locks spring to mind.. heh… and yes, many manufacturers use thread lock on the heaters that come with nipples pre-installed. SandShark: What are your symptoms exactly? And how old is the tank-j
sand shark5
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Santa Fe, TX SandShark5 Premium Member said by tp0d: SandShark: What are your symptoms exactly? And how old is the tank
-j
So I figured for the cost of a fork slider it would be worth the time and effort to replace it. Maybe this will solve the problem, maybe not. But I’m willing to give the hell a try. The gas water heater is 12 years old. Before you say it’s time to replace it, I realize it’s showing its age. But cosmetically it’s in great shape and I’ve flushed the tank every year since we bought the house in late 2006. Up until a few months ago there was always enough hot water for my wife and I. Then all of a sudden, even if I was the first to shower, the hot water ran out in less than 10 minutes. So I figured for the cost of a fork slider it would be worth the time and effort to replace it. Maybe this will solve the problem, maybe not. But I’m willing to give the hell a try.
DCS
Damn kidney stones
join:2001-03-22
Owen Sound, ON DKS to ArthurS
to ArthurS
said by ArthurS: The local home depot and the Lowes here stock them. Otherwise, you can order them from the water heater rescue.
The bigger question is how do you remove the old one from the tank? You’ll have to use some crazy glue on the threads because it’s almost impossible to undo it even with a monster wrench! Does anyone have a hint?
An advantage over rental heating. Something fails? The gas supplier will replace it free of charge.
ArthurS
Watch The Blinking Lights
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Hamilton, ON ArthurS Premium member, said of DKS: One advantage of renting heating. Something fails? The gas supplier will replace it free of charge.
If you’re skilled, it’s no big deal to maintain a water heater that lasts 15 to 20 years or more. As long as the anode is checked annually and replaced if necessary, and you flush the water heater and test the T&P valve every six months, it should last much longer than its advertised life (usually the warranty period or slightly longer). . The problem is that most people are either unable or too lazy to do this, and manufacturers know this and are taking advantage of the situation. For some, renting water heaters gives peace of mind, but at a cost. To me it’s nothing short of a rip off. Off to the local plumber for a Mega Wrench!
DCS
Damn kidney stones
join:2001-03-22
Owen Sound, ON DKS said by ArthurS: said by DKS: An advantage of renting a heater. Something fails? The gas supplier will replace it free of charge.
If you’re skilled, it’s no big deal to maintain a water heater that lasts 15 to 20 years or more. As long as the anode is checked annually and replaced if necessary, and you flush the water heater and test the T&P valve every six months, it should last much longer than its advertised life (usually the warranty period or slightly longer). . The problem is that most people are either unable or too lazy to do this, and manufacturers know this and are taking advantage of the situation. For some, renting water heaters gives peace of mind, but at a cost. To me it’s nothing short of a rip off. Off to the local plumber for a Mega Wrench! For me it’s a no brainer. I’ve got better things to do than play with a gas water heater. The heater pays for itself over five years, so once I’ve paid for it, I get it replaced if it’s broken. I’ll pay the same no matter what.
I know
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said by ArthurS: The local home depot and the Lowes here stock them. Otherwise, you can order them from the water heater rescue.
The bigger question is how do you remove the old one from the tank? You’ll have to use some crazy glue on the threads because it’s almost impossible to undo it even with a monster wrench! Does anyone have a hint?
The easiest way is to use an impact wrench.
ArthurS
Watch The Blinking Lights
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Hamilton, ON ArthurS Premium Member said from iknow : said from ArthurS: The local home depot and the Lowes here carry them. Otherwise, you can order them from the water heater rescue.
The bigger question is how do you remove the old one from the tank? You’ll have to use some crazy glue on the threads because it’s almost impossible to undo it even with a monster wrench! Does anyone have a hint?
The easiest way is to use an impact wrench. Yes, that would be cool, but what kind of nut would you use with the impact wrench to grip the nipple’s threads?
tp0d
jabbazooie
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Bulger, Pa. Windstream
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said by SandShark5: said by tp0d: SandShark: What exactly are your symptoms? And how old is the tank
-j
So I figured for the cost of a fork slider it would be worth the time and effort to replace it. Maybe this will solve the problem, maybe not. But I’m willing to give the hell a try.
The gas water heater is 12 years old. Before you say it’s time to replace it, I realize it’s showing its age. But cosmetically it’s in great shape and I’ve flushed the tank every year since we bought the house in late 2006. Up until a few months ago there was always enough hot water for my wife and I. Then all of a sudden, even if I was the first to shower, the hot water ran out in less than 10 minutes. So I figured for the cost of a fork slider it would be worth the time and effort to replace it. Maybe this will solve the problem, maybe not. But I’m willing to give the hell a try.
Another test is for a cross connection that lowers the hot temperature. Turn off the cold supply valve to the tank, then turn on a hot water faucet. If the pressure does not drop to 0 after 30 seconds to 1 minute, you have a hot-cold cross connection in the building, which looks like a dip tube problem.
-j Yes, sounds about right. However, you can do a quick test. With the heater thermostat happy, run the hot water at about 2 gpm and the Tstat should turn on within 2 minutes of the run time. This tests the accuracy of the tstat and confirms that the dip tube is directing cold water to the bottom of the tank. Another test is for a cross connection that lowers the hot temperature. Turn off the cold supply valve to the tank, then turn on a hot water faucet. If the pressure does not drop to 0 after 30 seconds to 1 minute, you have a hot-cold cross connection in the building, which looks like a dip tube problem.-j
I know
@optonline.net iknow to ArthurS
Anon to ArthurS
said by ArthurS: said by iknow : said by ArthurS: The local home depot and the Lowes here carry them. Otherwise, you can order them from the water heater rescue.
The bigger question is how do you remove the old one from the tank? You’ll have to use some crazy glue on the threads because it’s almost impossible to undo it even with a monster wrench! Does anyone have a hint?
The easiest way is to use an impact wrench.
Yes, that would be cool, but what kind of nut would you use with the impact wrench to grip the nipple’s threads? that explains it. » www.thetankatwaterheater ··· 911.html you cut the nipple off near the hex head of the fork tube and then use a 1-1/16 hex wrench like a regular nut. I think there are sockets that could grab the threads of a nipple but why bother.
sand shark5
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Santa Fe, TX SandShark5 through tp0d
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Many Thanks. I’ll try that first.
My Water Heater Is Running Out of Hot Water Faster Than Normal
Are you running out of hot water faster than you used to?
This is usually caused by a bad fork tube. But if you have an electric water heater, the culprit could also be faulty heating elements or a faulty thermostat.
Confused about what that is? Don’t worry – we’ll go into more detail on each of these 3 issues and how you can fix them.
Let’s start with the most common problem, a bad fork slider…
Do you need a plumber to fix this problem? Just give us a call and we’ll get your hot water running normally again.
The most likely problem: A bad fork tube
What is a dip tube?
A dip tube is a long tube that attaches to the cold water inlet of the water heater (pictured above) and ends about 8 inches off the bottom of the tank. A typical dip tube looks like this.
The purpose of the dip tube is to push incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank where the water is then heated by a gas burner or electric heating elements (depending on what type of water heater you have).
However, when your dip tube goes bad, the incoming cold water mixes with the heated water near the top, meaning you’ll feel colder water much quicker than normal.
2 reasons why your fork tube breaks
1. Normal wear and tear
The dip tubes in most newer water heaters should last the life of the unit (8-12 years). However, some dip tubes also act as a “sacrificial anode bar” meaning they are designed to attract any corrosive elements in the water and ultimately protect the tank from corrosion. Because these dip tubes “sacrifice” themselves, they typically have a shorter lifespan than the unit itself and will need to be replaced.
2. It is defective
Some fork tubes are more prone to disintegrating and breaking than others. Most water heaters manufactured between 1993 and 1997 have defective dip tubes, as many manufacturers bought and installed tubes made from inferior polypropylene plastic during those years.
You need a new fork tube if you notice these 2 signs:
1. Your water heater was manufactured between 1993 and 1997. You’ll know when you see the numbers between 93 and 97 in the 4th and 5th digits of your water heater’s serial number.
2. Small pieces of white plastic suddenly clog your faucets. These small pieces of plastic come from a decaying dip tube.
How can I replace a broken fork tube?
Replacing a broken fork slider isn’t complicated, but you still need the help of a professional. You will need a plumber to flush your water heater to remove any broken down plastic particles that may be floating in your tank.
Dip tube not the problem? If you have an electric water heater, check these problems…
Bad heating elements
Electric water heaters have 2 heating elements (top and bottom) to heat water in your tank. Because the coldest water is at the bottom of your tank, the bottom heating element does most of the work.
So if you get cold water very quickly, a bad bottom heating element could be to blame. Contact a plumber to check your heating elements for continuity (to see if current is flowing). If your heating element is broken, it will be replaced.
Thermostat defective
An electric water heater has 2 thermostats that control each of the heating elements. As with all electrical components, these sometimes fail or break down over time. If one of the thermostats is faulty, your home’s hot water supply will be limited.
Get a professional to check your thermostats to make sure they are working properly.
Need help with a water heater from a Florida plumber?
Contact Aztec Plumbing & Drains to arrange a water heater repair. We’ll send one of our certified plumbers to investigate the cause of the problem and then fix it to get you back to normal hot water.
Further reading:
Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide | How to Change a Dip Tube in a Water Heater
Immersion tubes are important to the operation of your gas or electric water heater. The dip tube is a long plastic tube that fits into the water heater’s cold water inlet and ends about 8 inches from the bottom of the tank.
With a broken dip tube, it’s difficult to get enough hot water in your home. That’s because a dip tube directs the incoming cold water to the bottom of your water heater, where the gas burner or primary electric heating element is located.
Read on to learn more about the signs of a bad fork slider and easy steps to replace the fork slider.
Need immediate help with a water heater emergency? Call Mr. Rooter® Plumbing at (855) 591-0128 for immediate assistance.
Problems with the water heater dip tube
Plastic fork tubes can deteriorate over time. A sign of a faulty dip tube is small white plastic blobs in your hot water supply and/or your water may not feel as hot as it used to. Immersion tubes typically last as long as their water heaters, but some types of immersion tubes can become brittle after being immersed in hot water for a few years.
Note that not all water heaters have a standard dip tube. If your water heater’s cold water inlet is at the bottom of the tank, your water heater does not have a dip tube.
Steps to replace the fork tube
Changing a dip tube in a water heater is a relatively simple process. To change your water heater’s dip tube:
Turn off the circuit breaker that powers your water heater. Turn off the cold water inlet valve. Drain the water heater tank to remove any plastic stains left by your broken dip tube. Disconnect the cold water supply line located at the top of your water heater. Remove the short piece of threaded tubing on both ends to reveal your fork tube. Remove the dip tube. A flat head screwdriver works best for this step. Drop a new hose into your water heater. Choose a cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) dip tube that will not degrade in the hot water tank. Reconnect the cold water supply line, fill the water heater tank with an open faucet on the hot side of the fitting to bleed the air, and only then restore power to your water heater. Turn on the hot water in your home to verify that the new dip tube is working.
Need help with water heater problems?
If the above steps don’t restore your water heater to full performance, then there must be another problem with the unit. Contact Mr. Rooter for all your water heater repair and replacement needs. Schedule your water heater inspection and maintenance today by calling Mr. Rooter at (855) 591-0128. Or simply request a quote online.
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