Audi Blower Fan Not Working? The 154 Detailed Answer

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What can cause a blower motor to stop working?

In most cases, a blower motor resistor fails due to corrosion or overheating. Sometimes, the mechanical resistance to the motor rotation causes an excessive electric current that can overheat and prematurely damage the blower motor resistor.

Why has my blower stopped working?

If little air is coming through the vents (hot or cold), then it could be because the blower motor for the fan or a switch or resistor that controls fan speed isn’t working. Another cause might be that the electronically controlled “blend doors” that direct air flow are stuck or broken.

How can you tell if a blower fuse is blown?

If the blower motor isn’t running you should:
  1. Use voltmeter or ohmmeter to check for a blown fuse. If you find one, replace it.
  2. Start car and see if blower motor works. …
  3. If the circuits are in good repair but the blower motor keeps blowing fuses, replace the blower motor [source: You Fix Cars].

Is there a fuse for blower fan?

Fuse Protection

To protect the blower motor power circuit, a 20-, 25- or 30-amp fuse is usually located in the fuse panel under the dash. The rating of the fuse will depend on the vehicle application and how much power the blower motor requires at full speed.

Why is my car not blowing air at all?

Here are some of the most common causes of why air doesn’t flow out of your vehicle’s vents: Your air intake is clogged, meaning that air isn’t getting in from the outside at all or isn’t circulating properly. There is a blown fuse in the ventilation system. Electrical issues such as a bad relay.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

You turn on your vehicle’s air conditioning, only to find that no air is coming out of your vents – not at all. You try the heating system in vain and wonder why no air comes out of my vents? Let’s take a look at some of the causes of air blockages.

Your vehicle’s HVAC system pulls air from the outside of your car and pushes air out of your car. It also cools the air for the air conditioner, heats the air for the heater, and filters the air so you don’t breathe in harmful outside pollutants. If your air vents suddenly stop working, you can find yourself uncomfortable driving in a stuffy cabin. Also, there may be something wrong with your vehicle. While the problem may not directly affect your ability to drive, it will definitely affect your comfort level and the quality of the air you breathe.

Here are some of the most common reasons why air is not flowing out of your vehicle’s air vents:

Your air intake is clogged, which means the outside air isn’t getting in at all or isn’t circulating properly.

A fuse has blown in the ventilation system.

Electrical problems like a bad relay.

Damaged blower motor.

The fan resistor is defective.

A broken hose in the ventilation system.

If you’re having trouble with air bubbles coming out of your air vent, bring your vehicle to West Coast Tire & Service today. Our mechanics can identify the problem and get you back on the road quickly with a top-functioning vehicle.

How much does it cost to replace the blower motor in a car?

“A new car blower motor costs about $50 to $100 for the part and $80 to $100 in labor. Add it up and you’re looking at a total charge of $130 to $200 for a new car blower motor.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

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How much does it cost to replace a blower motor?

A blower motor replacement costs $300 to $900 on average if not under warranty or $200 to $400 for labor when under warranty. Replacing a large or variable-speed HVAC blower motor costs $600 to $1,500. Furnace or AC blower motor prices are $100 to $500 on average for the part alone.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

Blower motor replacement cost

A blower motor replacement costs an average of $300 to $900 if not under warranty, or $200 to $400 in labor if under warranty. Replacing a large or variable speed HVAC fan motor costs $600 to $1,500. Furnace or AC blower motor prices average $100-$500 for the part alone.

Blower Motor Replacement Cost Chart

Blower Motor Replacement Cost Warranty Status Total Replacement Cost Blower motor under warranty $200-400 Blower motor out of warranty $300-900

Most AC units come with a 5 or 10 year warranty that covers parts but not labor.

Blower motor repairs cost anywhere from $150 to $700 depending on the issue and warranty status.

, depending on the problem and warranty status. Furnaces, central air conditioners, and heat pumps use the same type of fan motor that is part of the air handling unit. A new air conditioner costs between $1,500 and $3,400.

Average cost to replace an HVAC blower motor

The table below shows the average cost of replacing an oven fan motor, including installation.

Average Cost to Replace an HVAC Blower Motor National Average Cost $580 Minimum Cost $200 Maximum Cost $2,400 Average Cost between $300 and $900

Cost data comes from research and project costs reported by HomeGuide members.

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Cost of AC or stove blower motor at home

A household AC or stove blower motor costs an average of $100 to $500 for the part alone, depending on the brand, motor size, and speed. Central air conditioners, furnaces, heat pumps, and split AC systems use the same type of blower motor.

Oven and AC Blower Motor Prices Horsepower (HP) Motor Price Total Replacement Cost 1/4 $70 – $500 $270 – $900 1/3 $100 – $800 $300 – $1,200 1/2 $120 – $1,000 $320 – $1,400 3/4 $150 – $1,500 $350 – $1,900 $1 250 – $2,000 $450 – $2,400

*The most common apartment sizes are 1/4 to 1/2.

HVAC technician replaces blower motor

Blower motor replacement cost by brand

The table below shows the current average prices for popular air handling units and furnace brands.

Blower Motor Replacement Cost by Brand Brand Motor Price Total Replacement Cost American Standard / Trane $180 – $2,000 $380 – $2,400 Carrier $100 – $1,600 $300 – $2,000 Comfortmaker $200 – $1,000 $400 – $1,400 Goodman / Amana $100 – $1,200 $300 – $1,600 Lennox $100 – $1,600 – $2,000 Rheem $130 – $1,300 $330 – $1,700 York $130 – $1,800 $330 – $2,200

Carrier blower motor replacement cost

Replacing the Carrier blower motor costs $300 to $2,000 with installation if not under warranty, or $100 to $1,600 for the part alone. Carrier stoves and air handling units are guaranteed for 10 years if registered within 90 days of installation and 5 years if unregistered.

Trane blower motor replacement cost

Replacing a Trane blower motor costs $380-$2,400 with installation if not under warranty, or $180-$2,000 for the part alone. Trane variable speed motors are at the higher end of the price range. Trane ovens and air handling units are backed by a 10 year guarantee.

Rheem Blower Motor Replacement Cost

Replacing the Rheem blower motor costs $330-$1,700 with installation if not under warranty, or $130-$1,300 for the part alone. Rheem devices come with a 5 or 10 year warranty depending on the model.

Lennox blower motor replacement cost

Replacing the Lennox blower motor will cost $300-$2,000 including installation if not under warranty, or $100-$1,600 for the part alone. Lennox ovens and air handling units come with a 5 or 10 year parts warranty depending on the model.

York Blower Motor Replacement Cost

York oven fan motor replacement averages $330 to $2,200 with installation if not under warranty, or $130 to $1,800 for the motor alone. Most York ovens and air conditioners come with a 10 year limited parts warranty.

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Central air and heater blower motor price factors

The following factors affect the cost of replacing a blower motor:

Motor Size and Power – Higher horsepower (HP) blower motors cost more than lower horsepower models.

– Higher horsepower (hp) blower motors cost more than lower hp models. Motor Type and Speed ​​- PSC single and multi-speed motors cost less than ECM variable speed motors, but single speed motors are less efficient and cost more to run.

Single and multi-speed PSC motors cost less than variable speed ECM motors, but single speed motors are less efficient and cost more to run. Brand vs Generic – Brand or OEM blower motors typically cost more than generic or universal motors.

– Branded or OEM blower motors typically cost more than generic or universal motors. Plumbing Labor – Replacing a home blower motor will save $200-$400 in labor costs.

– Do-it-yourself replacement of a blower motor saves labor costs. Accessibility – Blower motors often have one or more parts in front of them that need to be disassembled and reassembled, increasing labor time.

– Blower motors often have one or more parts that need to be disassembled and reassembled, increasing labor time. Warranty – Manufacturer’s warranty may cover the motor itself, but most warranties do not cover labor costs.

– The manufacturer’s warranty may cover the engine itself, but most warranties will cover labor costs. Additional Parts Required – Other related components such as the condenser or fan impeller may need to be replaced at the same time.

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Installation costs blower motor

Installing the blower motor costs an average of $200 to $400 for the labor alone. HVAC contractors charge $75-$150 per hour with a minimum travel fee of $75-$200. Installing a blower motor typically takes 2 to 3 hours depending on accessibility.

Labor Cost for Blower Motor Installation Factor Average Cost Blower Motor Part $100-500 Labor $200-400 Total Installation Cost $300-900

PSC and ECM Blower Motor Replacement Cost

Replacing a PSC (Permanent Split Capacitor) blower motor costs $300 to $1,100 including installation. Replacing an electronically commutated (ECM) blower motor costs $600 to $1,500.

PSC vs. ECM Blower Motor Replacement Cost Motor Type Average Replacement Cost Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC) $300 – $1,100 Electronically Commutated (ECM) $600 – $1,500

A PSC blower motor has 1 to 3 speeds and costs less upfront, but the low efficiency results in higher running costs. Ovens older than 5 years typically have a PSC fan motor.

An ECM motor is variable speed and consumes up to 75% less power than a PSC motor. ECM motors are the new standard mandated by the US Department of Energy in 2019.

Cost of a blower motor versus a variable speed blower motor

Blower motor prices average $100 to $1,100 for the part alone, depending on whether the motor is single speed, dual speed, or variable speed.

Single Speed ​​vs. Variable Speed ​​Blower Motor Cost Motor Type Motor Price Each Motor Total Replacement Cost Single Speed ​​$100 – $500 $300 – $900 Two Speed ​​$120 – $700 $320 – $1,100 Variable Speed ​​400 – $1,100 $600 – $1,500

Single speed or single speed motors operate on “high” or “off”. Single speed motors are the least efficient and most expensive to run.

or single speed motors operate on “high” or “off”. Single speed motors are the least efficient and most expensive to run. Two-speed motors have 1 to 3 speeds. Multi-speed blower motors are quieter than single-speed units because they do not run at full power all the time.

Motors have 1 to 3 speeds. Multi-speed blower motors are quieter than single-speed units because they do not run at full power all the time. Variable speed fan motors rise slowly and run at the lowest possible speed to maintain the temperature of the house. Variable speed motors cost more but reduce electricity costs and offer the best airflow control.

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Blower motor repair costs

An AC blower motor repair costs an average of $150 to $700 depending on the problem and whether the part is under warranty.

Consider the engine’s age, efficiency, and frequency of repairs when deciding whether to repair or replace it. Blower motor replacement is recommended when repair costs are 50% or more of replacement cost.

Cost of Blower Motor Parts Average Price* Bearing $20-200 Belt $5-25 Blower Resistor $25-55 Impeller (squirrel cage) $25-300 Capacitor $10-50 ECM Motor Control Module $220-800 ECM Repair Kit 20-60 $Housing $90-$300 Pulley $30-$250 Shaft $30-$300

*Without installation.

Cost of replacing the fan wheel

Replacing the HVAC fan impeller costs $100-$750 including labor or $25-$300 for the part alone. Fan impellers usually need to be replaced if the oven is still noisy after tightening or replacing the screws. Dirt build-up due to a lack of routine maintenance is a common cause of impeller failure.

Blower condenser replacement cost

A furnace fan condenser costs $100-$250 with installation or $10-$50 for the part alone. A humming or humming motor often indicates a bad capacitor rather than a bad blower motor.

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frequently asked Questions

What is a blower motor?

The blower motor is the part of the air conditioner or furnace that forces conditioned air through the ducts to distribute it throughout the home. The air conditioner and furnace typically use the same fan motor to move cooled or heated air.

How long does it take to replace a blower motor?

Replacing a blower motor takes an average of 2 to 3 hours. The fan motor is typically located behind a control panel and other oven parts. An HVAC technician will remove other components as needed, replace the motor, clean the fan, test the new motor, and reassemble the furnace.

How long do blower motors last?

An HVAC fan motor typically lasts 10 to 20 years depending on usage.

How to test if a blower motor is defective?

Testing a blower motor requires electrical knowledge and a multimeter to test the capacitor and electrical windings. Before hiring an HVAC technician to test the engine, follow these troubleshooting steps:

Make sure the circuit breaker on the home electrical panel has not tripped. Make sure the on/off switch on the outside of the oven is on. Check the air filter for dirt build-up and replace if necessary. If the system turns on but the fan does not, turn off the power and remove the oven cover to expose the components. Clean any dirt and debris on and around the blower motor. Turn the power back on. Contact an HVAC professional if the blower motor problem persists.

Where is the fan in the air conditioner?

The fan motor is located inside the oven or air conditioner. The air handler is the inner part of an HVAC system.

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Find and Hire an HVAC Technician

Before hiring an HVAC technician to replace your blower motor:

Get at least three estimates to compare.

Look for a NATE certified technician with experience in AC repair and blower motor replacement.

Search their reviews on HomeGuide, Google, and the Better Business Bureau (BBB).

Select companies that are insured, liable and have been in business for more than five years.

Ask for references.

Avoid picking the lowest bid as quality may suffer.

Confirm whether the part is covered under warranty or not.

Obtain a detailed cost estimate, contract and guarantee in writing before starting work.

Never pay in full before the project begins. Use a completed work payment plan instead.

Questions to ask

Are you licensed, bonded and insured?

What is your experience with air conditioning repair and blower motor repair and replacement?

How long does the repair or replacement take?

How long should the new blower motor last?

Is there a guarantee and if so what does it include?

What is included in the estimate and what is not?

What additional costs should I expect?

Get free HomeGuide estimates from trusted professionals:

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How do I know if my blower motor is bad in my car?

You might also hear ongoing whirring noises, or noises that change or get louder if you increase the fan speed. These are all signs of problems with the blower motor. In some cases, you may even notice smoke or smells of burning while driving, in which case you should pull over immediately.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

Edited by Writer

Your vehicle’s blower motor is a critical part of its heating and cooling systems. When you’re dealing with a bad blower motor, you’re going to have a much harder time controlling the temperature in your vehicle’s interior. This may not affect the operation of your vehicle, but it will definitely affect your comfort and is a major nuisance during times of extreme temperatures.

So if you notice signs that you have a bad blower motor on your hands, it’s important to contact a trusted mechanic in New Palestine, IN who can recommend the next steps for repairs and get it working again for you . Here are just a few of the signs that your blower motor is running poorly.

Poor airflow

This is one of the first signs of a bad blower motor that people notice. Your engine wears out over time – this is just part of the overall wear and tear of your vehicle. When this happens, the engine can’t push as much air through your vehicle’s HVAC system, so you’ll find that the blowers aren’t nearly as powerful as they used to be. You may also find that the fan works at some speeds but not at others, or above a certain speed the fan stops working at all.

Not only does this result in poor airflow through the vents that heat or cool your interior, it also reduces the efficiency of the defroster, which uses the same fan to blow air onto the windshield.

There are several components that could have problems leading to these problems, so it’s important to have the problem properly diagnosed by a professional mechanic before proceeding assuming it’s your blower motor. But regardless, this is a problem that quickly becomes a nuisance.

Sounds

Have you noticed unusual noises coming from your vehicle’s HVAC system? It is not uncommon for some debris to be sucked into the engine bay and become trapped in the blower motor fan. These blades are made of plastic, so they can be damaged or even snap off fairly easily. When this happens, you will likely notice a sound coming from just behind the vent, such as B. a smack or a sudden pop followed by problems with your airflow. You may also hear persistent whirring noises, or noises that change or get louder as you increase the fan speed. These are all signs of blower motor problems.

smoke or smells

In some cases, you may even notice smoke or the smell of burning while driving, in which case you should stop immediately. A blown blower motor won’t break your car, but you can’t be immediately sure that it’s the blower motor that’s smoking, either. You should have your vehicle checked before you even drive if you notice these problems.

For more information on problems that indicate a blower motor burnout, contact Auto Air & Heating, Inc. today to speak to an experienced mechanic in New Palestine, IN.

Categorized into: Mechanics

This post was written by Writer

How do you tell if the blower motor is bad or the resistor?

Signs of a Bad Blower Motor Resistor
  1. Loss of HVAC fan control (total or certain speeds)
  2. The fan only works on its highest speed setting.
  3. No air coming from vents.
  4. Intermittent or inconsistent fan speed.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

A blower motor resistor is the electrical component that controls the fan speed of your vehicle’s HVAC system. While they’re fairly reliable, they won’t last forever. This particular OE One (left) retired after almost 20 years. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

It all started during our drive to the Cavalcade of Customs in Cincinnati, Ohio. It was a bitterly cold day and we found that our vehicle’s cabin was still quite cool, even after a few minutes on the freeway with the HVAC fan set to “2”. Without thinking too much about it, we turned the heater knob to “3” and the vents started blowing out loads of hot air.

Once we were nice and warm, we turned the fan speed dial back to the “2” position when we noticed that the fan wasn’t blowing at all.

Temporarily at a loss, we turned the fan down to “1” and the fan started working as usual at the lowest speed setting. Conversely, turning the knob to the heater’s highest “4” setting was tantamount to opening the doors to the 765’s firebox.

This quick troubleshooting showed us that the heater core was fine and that the blower motor had power – the fan simply wouldn’t run at fan speed “2”.

A textbook case of bad blower motor resistance.

Our 2004 Nissan Sentra HVAC controls are delightfully simple, and when we lost the fan’s “2” speed setting while all the others were working fine, we immediately suspected the blower motor’s resistance had been grilled. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

What is a blower motor resistor?

Simply put, a blower motor resistor is an electrical component that can block (resist) the flow of current (current) into the blower motor. This allows you to change the speed of the fan – more resistance means the fan doesn’t spin as fast, resulting in less air (hot or cold) circulating in the cabin. By clicking the fan speed knob from one setting to another, you change the path that current takes through the blower motor resistor on its way to the blower motor.

That was a very basic explanation. If you really want to understand how resistors work in a circuit, learning Ohm’s Law is a good place to start.

You need a blower motor resistor here because electrically speaking your blower motor fan is a pretty dumb device. It’s either on or off, so by controlling the current flow into the blower motor you change the speed of the fan. That’s where blower motor resistance comes in – and it works great for this kind of thing.

However, it should be noted that many modern vehicles today use more advanced solutions and often rely on an electronic control module to regulate the fan speed. But before the advent of those failed fan speed ECMs, blower motor resistors were the way to go and have proven to be trusted and reliable in vehicle HVAC setups for decades.

Blower motor resistors are fairly simple parts, which usually means they have a good lifespan. This is one for a 1960’s Chevy. (Image/Summit Racing – OER)

Signs of poor blower motor resistance

But while they’re damn reliable, like any electrical component, blower motor resistors can fail without much warning. Fortunately, diagnosing a bad blower motor resistor is fairly easy.

Here are some common signs that your vehicle’s blower motor resistance is bad:

Loss of HVAC fan control (total or specific speeds)

The fan only runs at the highest level

No air comes out of the ventilation slots

Intermittent or inconsistent fan speed

As a nod to our story above, you’ll probably first discover the problem when you notice that your vehicle’s passenger compartment isn’t cooling or heating up as it normally would – which brings us to an important point. Because it contributes directly to airflow, poor fan motor resistance affects your HVAC system’s ability to both heat up and cool down.

Although blower motor resistors often look different, they still perform the same basic job. This is one of a 2000’s Jeep. (Image/Summit Racing – Mopar replacement)

How to replace a blower motor resistor

While all cars and trucks are different, replacing a blower motor resistor can be a simple matter. In our experience, the difficulty depends on where the resistance of the blower motor is. If it’s hidden behind a dashboard or close to a firewall, you may need to remove some other parts to access it. (Don’t panic: many automotive designers are foresight enough to place the blower motor resistor in an easily accessible location, such as behind an access panel or removable panel.)

Once you’re able to get hold of the thing, the actual task of replacing the blower motor resistor yourself will likely be fairly easy. If you have basic mechanical skills and can hook up an Atari game cartridge, you probably have enough know-how to get the job done.

Again, all vehicle applications are different, but we’ll walk you through working on our 2004 Nissan Sentra test subject – though it’s quite similar to other vehicles we’ve worked on. Check out the walkthrough below and let us know how the job goes for you in our comments section.

On a 2004 Nissan Sentra, the blower motor resistor is located behind the glove box. Removing the glove box is easy enough and if you’ve ever changed your cabin air filter (AND YOU SHOULD!) then you already know the process. After the glove box is out, remove two screws holding a small plastic plate (which is lying on the floor mat in this picture) to access the resistor connector. It’s not visible here, but the red arrow shows where it’s located behind the plastic shroud. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

The circled connector connects to the blower motor resistor module. You need to unplug the connector, remove the two screws holding the module, and then pull the whole thing out. We also had to remove the white plastic clip so we could get our grubby paw up there. While it’s tight, the job isn’t too difficult – just take extra precautions to ensure you don’t strip the heads on any of the screws. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

Here’s a look at the connector pins for our new blower motor resistor module. It’s a good thing we looked down here too – these pins are way too crooked and need to be bent slightly to make sure they all line up. This gives us the certainty that the connector plug slides in smoothly. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

To make things easier, apply a dab of dielectric grease to the new module’s connector pins and around the connector housing. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

Installing the new blower motor resistor is basically a reverse of the removal process. All in all it was a 20 minute, $20 job for us – and while the process may be different for your vehicle, we’ve had other blower motor resistor replacements that were similarly enjoyable.

Also note the intricate circuitry on the blower motor resistor printed circuit board (PCB) – these represent the various “paths” that current takes through the resistor. Here there are three different paths on the PCB for speeds one through three. We’ll explain more in the next few images. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

If you put a multimeter on the pins of the old blower motor resistor you can see the fault. Here the setting was “1” with 2.7 ohms. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

Here is the “3” setting of the fan at 1.6 ohms. Less resistance here means faster fan speed. At the highest level (“4”), the resistance is completely bypassed and the blower motor chugs its power directly from the tap. (Image/OnAllCylinders)

What happens when a blower motor relay goes bad?

If the blower motor relay develops any sort of problem that hinders its ability to properly limit and distribute power, it may cause the blower motor fuse to blow. Any sort of electrical spikes or excessive current from a bad relay will blow the fuse and cut power in order to protect the system.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

The blower motor relay is the electrical switch used to provide power to the vehicle’s blower motor. The blower motor is the component responsible for forcing air through the vents of your vehicle’s heating and air conditioning systems. Without them, the air conditioner cannot circulate heated or cooled air. The blower motor relay controls the current used to drive the blower motor and is subject to constant switching on and off. It can eventually wear out over time. When the blower motor relay begins to fail, the vehicle will typically display a few symptoms that alert the driver to a potential problem that should be serviced.

1. Blower motor not working

One of the first symptoms of a blower motor relay problem is a blower motor not working at all. Since the relay is the switch that provides power to the blower motor, if there is an internal failure, power to the blower motor circuit will be removed, causing the motor to stop operating or blowing air out of the vents.

2. Blown fuses

One of the first symptoms of a bad or failed AC fan motor relay is a blown fuse in the AC fan motor relay circuit. If the blower motor relay develops any problem that interferes with its ability to properly limit and distribute power, it can cause the blower motor fuse to blow. Any type of electrical spike or excessive current from a faulty relay will blow the fuse and cut power to protect the system.

3. Melted relay

Another more serious symptom of a blower motor relay problem is a burned or melted relay. Relays are subject to high current loads and can sometimes get hot when there is a problem. In severe cases, the relays can heat up to the point where the internal components and the relay’s plastic housing will begin to melt and burn – sometimes even causing damage to the fuse box or panel.

Because the blower motor relay is essentially the switch that directly controls power to the blower motor, the entire AC system is unable to distribute its cooled or heated air if the relay fails. For this reason, if you suspect your blower motor relay has a problem, have your vehicle’s air conditioning system diagnosed by a professional Vermin-Club technician. You can determine if the car needs a blower motor relay replacement or other repair to restore full functionality to your air conditioning system.

How do I know if my cars blower motor is bad?

You might also hear ongoing whirring noises, or noises that change or get louder if you increase the fan speed. These are all signs of problems with the blower motor. In some cases, you may even notice smoke or smells of burning while driving, in which case you should pull over immediately.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

Edited by Writer

Your vehicle’s blower motor is a critical part of its heating and cooling systems. When you’re dealing with a bad blower motor, you’re going to have a much harder time controlling the temperature in your vehicle’s interior. This may not affect the operation of your vehicle, but it will definitely affect your comfort and is a major nuisance during times of extreme temperatures.

So if you notice signs that you have a bad blower motor on your hands, it’s important to contact a trusted mechanic in New Palestine, IN who can recommend the next steps for repairs and get it working again for you . Here are just a few of the signs that your blower motor is running poorly.

Poor airflow

This is one of the first signs of a bad blower motor that people notice. Your engine wears out over time – this is just part of the overall wear and tear of your vehicle. When this happens, the engine can’t push as much air through your vehicle’s HVAC system, so you’ll find that the blowers aren’t nearly as powerful as they used to be. You may also find that the fan works at some speeds but not at others, or above a certain speed the fan stops working at all.

Not only does this result in poor airflow through the vents that heat or cool your interior, it also reduces the efficiency of the defroster, which uses the same fan to blow air onto the windshield.

There are several components that could have problems leading to these problems, so it’s important to have the problem properly diagnosed by a professional mechanic before proceeding assuming it’s your blower motor. But regardless, this is a problem that quickly becomes a nuisance.

Sounds

Have you noticed unusual noises coming from your vehicle’s HVAC system? It is not uncommon for some debris to be sucked into the engine bay and become trapped in the blower motor fan. These blades are made of plastic, so they can be damaged or even snap off fairly easily. When this happens, you will likely notice a sound coming from just behind the vent, such as B. a smack or a sudden pop followed by problems with your airflow. You may also hear persistent whirring noises, or noises that change or get louder as you increase the fan speed. These are all signs of blower motor problems.

smoke or smells

In some cases, you may even notice smoke or the smell of burning while driving, in which case you should stop immediately. A blown blower motor won’t break your car, but you can’t be immediately sure that it’s the blower motor that’s smoking, either. You should have your vehicle checked before you even drive if you notice these problems.

For more information on problems that indicate a blower motor burnout, contact Auto Air & Heating, Inc. today to speak to an experienced mechanic in New Palestine, IN.

Categorized into: Mechanics

This post was written by Writer

Audi Blower Motor Comparison A4 A5 A6 Q5 (not blowing air) noise Replace Remove Glove Box b8 ac heat

Audi Blower Motor Comparison A4 A5 A6 Q5 (not blowing air) noise Replace Remove Glove Box b8 ac heat
Audi Blower Motor Comparison A4 A5 A6 Q5 (not blowing air) noise Replace Remove Glove Box b8 ac heat


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When I switch Auto on or off I can hear a faint ‘click’so presume relay or heater blower motor gone? Not been using it last few weeks, …

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Source: www.ttforum.co.uk

Date Published: 5/24/2021

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Audi Q5 2012 HVAC fan not working – CarGurus

I have a 2001 Q5 with 22k miles and 2 years ago had to replace my blower motor car was out of warranty by 2 months. now 2 years later same …

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Blower Motors for Audi Q7 for sale – eBay

There are several indications of a bad or failing blower motor in your Audi Q7, including weak to no airflow or certain fan speeds not working. These may occur …

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Cabin heater fan motor not working | Audi A2 Owners’ Club

My cabin heater fan motor deced not to work today. … you should only need to remove the glovebox for access to the blower motor

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Blower motor, resistor: how it works, symptoms, problems, testing

Blower motor, resistance: how it works, symptoms, problems, tests

Blower Motor Resistor/Control Module Problems

How is Blower Motor Resistance Diagnosed?

This Ford Blower Motor Resistor has failed due to corrosion

Faulty resistance tested with an ohmmeter

How do I test the blower motor?

Check voltage at blower motor. If the motor has voltage (at least 4-6 volts at low speed and 12 volts at high speed) but the motor does not run, the motor is defective.

How is the blower motor controller tested?

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Testing the Honda Power Transistor (Blower Motor Control Module).

Honda Blower Motor Control Module (Power Transistor)

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On the 2008-2011 Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute, the blower motor resistor is located on top of the HVAC unit behind the glove box.

How the blower motor resistance works

Typical fan resistance diagram Typical fan resistance diagram

The motor that drives the fan in a car’s heating and air conditioning system is called a blower motor. It is located in the dashboard, often on the opposite side of the steering wheel, or in the engine compartment on the firewall. A blower motor resistor or blower motor control module is the part that controls the speed of the blower motor. What is the difference? A blower motor resistor is a simple electrical resistor. It is used in cars where the blower motor only has 4 or 5 fixed speeds, as on the left in this diagram. See the Ford Blower Motor Resistor Photo Cars with automatic air conditioning and vehicles that have variable fan speed adjustment are equipped with an electronic blower motor control module, see the photo. In most modern cars, the blower motor resistor or the Control modules are installed in one of the HVAC system ducts near the blower motor. It does this by cooling the resistor or a control module with air flowing past it. On some older cars, a blower motor resistor was installed on the firewall with underhood access. Blower motor resistance problems are common in many cars. The most common symptom of a failed blower motor resistor is the heater fan only running at the highest speed setting (4 or 5) and not operating at low speeds. In some cars, a failed blower motor resistor can cause a heater blower to stop working. In most cases, a blower motor resistor will fail due to corrosion or overheating. Sometimes the mechanical resistance to motor rotation causes excessive electrical current that can overheat and prematurely damage the blower motor resistor. This happens, for example, when the fan blade is blocked by a foreign object or when the motor bearings are worn and it does not rotate freely. Problems with a blower motor control module are less common, but they fail for the same reason: corrosion or overheating if the motor is stuck or shorted out. If a blower control module fails, in most cases the blower motor will not function at all. On some cars (e.g. older GM trucks) a faulty blower control module or processor can cause the blower motor to keep running even when the ignition is off. Diagnostic procedures vary. Often a visual inspection of the resistor will reveal the problem. For example, as you can see in this photo, the blower motor resistor in this Ford Escape has failed due to corrosion. If the resistor has no visible damage, the resistance between the terminals must be checked and compared to the specifications. If the resistance is outside of specifications, the resistance must be replaced. For example, in this photo we measured the resistance of this blower motor resistor. According to the workshop manual, it must be around 4-5 ohms. In our case, the ohmmeter shows an open circuit, which means that the resistance has failed. Sometimes a blower motor resistor can fail due to problems with the blower motor itself. That is, after replacing the blower motor resistor, check whether the blower motor runs freely and is not making any noise. We’ve seen cases where a worn out blower motor caused a recently replaced resistor to fail again. This problem was common on older Chrysler and Dodge minivans, for example. In this case, the blower motor must also be replaced. One of the symptoms of a worn blower motor is that it can at times produce a loud squeak when running. If the blower motor does not work at all, the first thing to do is to test the blower motor itself. Normally the voltage is measured at the blower motor connector when it is switched on. If the motor has voltage (at least 4-6 volts at low speed and 12 volts at high speed) but the motor does not run, the motor is defective or locked. Things like leaves, twigs, nuts, pieces of a torn cabin air filter can jam the fan motor blades. This is common on many cars. If there is no voltage to the motor, the entire blower motor circuit must be checked from a fuse. See: How to Check a Fuse in a Car If a blower motor has failed, it will need to be replaced. Replacing the blower motor costs between $320 and $650, depending on the car. In many cars it’s pretty easy; the blower motor sits behind the glove compartment and is held in place by 3-4 screws. In other cases, it may be in the dashboard (e.g. Mazda 5), ​​making it difficult to replace. If you need a proper diagnostic procedure, we have published several links to access a service manual for your car for a subscription fee. Check this post, scroll down the page. Mechanics at a dealership can diagnose the HVAC system with a scan tool. If the scan tool is not available, there is a self-test or diagnostic mode in many cars with automatic climate control. Usually it can be activated by pressing and holding various keys. For example, for the 2009 Honda Accord, the workshop manual describes the procedure as follows: Turn on the ignition. While holding the OFF button, press and release the heated window button 5 times within 10 seconds. The system will go into self-diagnostic mode and in the end, if there is a problem, the error code will appear on the display. The service manual describes the test procedure for each code. See for example these YouTube videos; Add your vehicle make and model. Another option is to check the voltage at the blower motor, blower motor control module, and other parts of the circuit per the service manual. For example, in the mentioned 2009 Honda Accord, the +12V power is supplied directly through the fuse and then through the relay to the blower motor. The blower motor control module (Honda calls it power transistor) supplies the ground. The power transistor has 4 wires: two come from the climate control module, one is ground, one goes to the negative terminal of the blower motor. The service manual recommends measuring the voltage at the blower motor, if not OK, at the power transistor and so on. A failed power transistor was a fairly common cause of non-working blower motors on some Honda and Acura vehicles. For example, Honda Bulletin 03-048 described an issue where the blower motor for the rear HVAC system in the 2003 Pilot would not work at all speeds. The bulletin recommends replacing the rear power transistor as a solution. BMW calls the blower motor control module of a power amp unit, which also fails fairly frequently. Sometimes it does not fail completely but causes the blower motor to stop working intermittently or run at different speeds. Check out these YouTube videos for more information. On some GM trucks, a blower motor control module failure can cause the front blower motor to stop functioning or continue to run after the vehicle is shut down. GM Bulletin 06-01-39-002C describes this problem occurring in cold weather. The bulletin recommends replacing the blower motor control module. GM calls it Linear Power Module (LPM). Watch these YouTube videos for more information. Your local mechanic or any small repair shop should be able to diagnose the problem. Of course, the quickest way is to make an appointment with your dealer. Many dealers have the part in stock. Replacing the blower motor resistor or the control module is not very expensive. For example, one of our colleagues had an issue with his 2011 Ford Escape: the fan only worked at speed 4. He paid $50 to diagnose and $112 to have the resistor replaced at a local Ford dealership. When he had the same problem two years later, he ordered the part online for $25 and replaced it himself. In the 2008-2011 Ford Escape, the resistor is behind the glove box, on top of the air conditioning duct. It is held by two screws and is easy to replace. See photo. On the 2008-2011 Ford F150, the blower motor resistor is also located behind the glove box, but it is installed on the right side of the plastic air duct. This thread on f150online.com shows where the resistance is. The author of this blog shared his experience of replacing the blower motor resistor in Jeep Liberty. On some older cars and trucks, the blower motor resistor is installed on the firewall, with access under the hood. This diagram shows how the blower motor resistor is connected in a typical car. In this car, at the highest fan speed setting of “4”, the resistor is bypassed and the blower motor is powered directly from the fan switch. In some cars it can therefore happen that the blower motor still works at the “High” speed level if there is poor resistance. In this diagram, the fan switch is set to level “1”, so the blower motor current is reduced by three resistors (R2 + R3 + R4) connected in series. Current flow is shown in blue and red. In setting “2” two resistors are connected in series, in “3” only one resistor. Adding resistance to the circuit decreases the current in the circuit. If several resistors are connected in series, the total resistance increases and is equal to the sum of the individual resistances.

How to Test a Blower Motor

Your car’s blower motor is not only necessary for the operation of your air conditioning system. Without a working blower motor, your motor runs the risk of overheating. If you hear the blower motor running but no air flowing through the vents, the problem is with the airflow controls [source: RepairPal]. If the blower motor is not running, you should:

Use a voltmeter or ohmmeter to check for a blown fuse. If you find one, replace it. Start the car and see if the blower motor works. If the fuse blows again, check for loose circuits. If the circuits are in good condition but the blower motor continues to blow fuses, replace the blower motor [source: You Fix Cars].

If your motor is working properly but the blower motor is not, you can test the blower motor to see if it needs cleaning or repairs. Here’s what to do:

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Disconnect car battery. Disconnect the blower motor from its connector. Loosen all screws on the blower motor. Put them in small containers. Locate the retaining clip in the center of the fan wheel. Disconnect it from the motor shaft and set it aside. Remove any dirt from the engine. Clean the blower motor with an electrical parts cleaner. Oil the bearings. Check that the impeller spins freely and that all other parts are working properly. If a part isn’t working properly, clean and oil it and test again [sources: PartSource].

If you can get the blower motor running again, reinstall it. If not, you will need to buy a new blower motor.

A/C Update: Bad A/C Blowers & Fuses

One component that air conditioners and heaters have in common is the blower motor. The blower motor is typically located in the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) enclosure under the dashboard. The blower motor spins a squirrel cage fan that supplies both cold and hot air. When the driver desires cold air and turns on the air conditioning, the blower fan pulls air through the evaporator core to cool it. When the driver is cold and desires hot air, the blower pulls air through the heater core to heat it. In fact, the blower fan does not know which path the air is taking as it is controlled by one or more mixed air dampers and ducts within the HVAC assembly. The fan only moves the air.

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On most vehicles, the blower motor typically operates at one of several speeds ranging from low to high in several stages. The fan motor speed is controlled by a multi-position switch or by a control module on vehicles with Automatic Temperature Control (ATC). With a switch controlled motor, current from the fan speed control switch is routed through a “resistor block” on its way to the blower motor. The resistor block usually contains a series of resistors (three or four) that reduce the current and voltage reaching the blower motor. When the driver selects a low fan speed, current is passed through all of the resistors in the resistor block. This creates maximum resistance so the blower motor rotates slowly at minimum speed. When the rider chooses a medium fan speed, the power is directed through less resistance and the motor revs faster. At high speed, current can bypass the resistor block entirely and go directly to the blower motor, causing it to run at maximum speed.

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On vehicles with automatic temperature control systems, the ATC module controls current conduction through the resistor block or through its own internal power transistors and resistors to control fan speed. In automatic mode, the driver selects a desired temperature and the ATC control module determines how much hot or cold air is needed to reach and maintain that temperature. The fan speed can change along with the position of the glare control flaps to regulate the temperature. In manual mode, the driver can override the fan speed and increase or decrease the blower speed at will. A growing number of newer vehicles (e.g. newer GM models and the 2006 Hyundai Accent) use “Pulse Width Modulation” (PWM) to vary the speed of the blower motor. With PWM, the voltage to the blower motor is turned on and off electronically, like a digital signal. Increasing the “duty cycle” or “duty cycle” of the voltage signal increases the speed of the fan motor. The PWM signal can be read on a scan tool (if it has software to access the ATC system) or an old fashioned dwell meter. You can also view the PWM waveform on a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO). You should see a nice square wave pattern that changes frequency with changes in fan speed.

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fuse protection

Due to the volume of air being moved by the fan, the motor can draw up to 20A or more at high speed. A 20, 25 or 30 amp fuse is usually located in the under dash fuse box to protect the blower motor circuit. The fuse rating depends on the vehicle application and how much power the blower motor requires at full speed. If something falls into a defroster duct or enters the HVAC plenum through the outside air intake and jams the blower motor, it can overload the motor and blow the fuse. The wire element in the fuse melts when the current in the circuit exceeds the wiring design limit – so if the fuse is blown it means the circuit is overloaded. The first thing to check would be the fan for any obstructions that could prevent the fan from spinning. If the blower motor is running but the fan is noisy, there may be debris inside the fan (leaves, mouse nest, etc.), or the fan may be rubbing against the case, causing increased friction and drag. Clean the fan and see if that makes a difference.

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If the fan spins freely, the problem may be in the motor itself. A short in the motor windings or brushes may have caused a short that overloaded the circuit. If the motor spins very slowly or slower than normal when the fan speed is high, the motor may be defective. You can check the current draw of the motor with an ammeter or low ampere probe. Current draw must be checked at a specific voltage with key on, engine off (KOEO) and/or key on, engine running (KOER). You will need to look up the current and voltage specifications for the vehicle being tested and the test procedure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

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A short in the resistor block or control switch can also blow a fuse. If a replacement fuse blows immediately after installation, there is a short in the wiring, switch, resistor block, relay, or motor causing a current overload in the circuit. Disconnect and test each component in the blower motor circuit until the shorted component is found. This can be done by measuring the resistance of each component with an ohmmeter and comparing the readings to the specifications. Replace any components that do not meet specifications. Never attempt to “fix” a blown fan fuse by replacing a higher amperage fuse. This allows the current in the circuit to exceed the limits of the wiring and start a fire!

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Slow or no beat

If the blower does not blow air when the air conditioner or heater is on, the problem may be a faulty control switch, control module (or control head, depending on how the system is wired), resistor block, blower motor, relay, or fuse. The blower obviously can’t work if it doesn’t get voltage. Use a test light or voltmeter to check the voltage at the blower motor when the switch is on (try all fan speed settings). No voltage means that one of the components in the blower circuit is not receiving power.

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Check the blower fuse and the voltage at the fuse (should be within 0.1 volts of the battery voltage with the key on). If the circuit contains a power relay (which many do), check the relay next. Check the voltage when the relay is energized and verify that the relay is getting full battery voltage. You will need a wiring diagram to locate the relay and figure out which of the relay terminals are connected to the power supply, control circuit and resistor block or blower motor. Next, check the voltage across the resistor block (again refer to the schematic to identify the correct terminals). If the battery voltage reaches the resistor block, that means the fan switch or control head and relay (if used) are all fine. But there is likely a break in the resistance bloc. Try bypassing the resistor block with a fused jumper wire. If the fan runs at high speed, the resistor block is defective and must be replaced.

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Resistors run very hot and often fail due to overheating. If only one resistor has failed, the blower motor may not run at all speeds or at all. Don’t even think about swapping out individual resistors. It’s too time consuming and too risky. Simply replace the entire resistor block if one of the individual resistors has failed. If there is no voltage at the resistor block, the problem is in the fan switch or control head. For ATC systems, use a wiring diagram to determine if the control module is part of the ATC control head or a separate unit. A failure in an ATC system with a “smart” head (where the module and ATC control head are one assembly) means you must replace the entire assembly to correct the failure. On vehicles with a “dumb” control head, where the module is separate and the ATC head only passes input to the module from the driver or passenger, the switches or knobs on the ATC control head may not function properly. Or the head is passing the inputs but the module is defective or there is a wiring problem between the head and the module (check the connections and wiring). The more complex the ATC system, the more diagnostics are required to isolate a controller failure. Most ATC systems have some level of self-diagnostic capability and can detect internal problems that may affect the operation of the blower motor or blend dampers that affect air temperature. If you have a scan tool with the right software, you can usually access the self-diagnostics and fault codes through the diagnostic connector. On most vehicles there is also a manual procedure to put the ATC system into a self-diagnostic mode so that it will display trouble codes. Procedures for doing this vary widely from vehicle to vehicle, but usually involve pressing two buttons at the same time and using other buttons to read codes, check various components, or reset the system. You’ll need to refer to the OEM service literature for this type of procedure – or get lucky and find it in the vehicle’s owner’s manual.

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cabin air filter

Poor airflow from the A/C outlets, heater and/or defroster can also be caused by a dirty cabin air filter. Many newer vehicle models have them, but few motorists are aware of the filters and even fewer change the filter. As a result, the filter becomes clogged and restricts airflow to the blower fan. Cabin air filters are a maintenance item that needs to be checked and replaced regularly. “Combination” filters, which retain both odors and dust, have a limited lifespan and should be replaced annually. Cabin filters that only capture dust typically last a couple of years, but how long they last depends on how much dust they pick up. A dirty operating environment will shorten the life of the filter.

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Most cabin air filters are located in the HVAC plenum assembly behind the glove box or at the HVAC inlet near the scuttle area at the base of the windshield in the engine compartment. Consult the vehicle owner’s manual for the exact location of the filter and the replacement procedure. Some GM Blower Motor Tips

On the 1999 Chevy Cavalier, GM uses a ground-side switched fan circuit. The reason is that switching the ground side of the circuit instead of the power side reduces high frequency interference. In this application, the resistors run very hot and often fail. There is often a fuse on the resistor board. The fuse only protects the low and medium fan speeds. The high speed still works when the resistor fuse is blown.

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Two blower relays are used (low and high speed) on 1996 GM FWD minivans. If a vehicle has only low or high fan speeds, the likely cause is a failed low or high speed relay. On the 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, the blower circuit has a module with a relay and resistors mounted in the HVAC plenum. This module is about the size of a credit card and runs very hot (watch your fingers!). It may explode if water from outside the vehicle or an internal heater core leak comes into contact with the module. On newer GM models that use pulse width modulation to vary the speed of the blower motor, the blower speed control module in the HVAC unit often becomes dirty, overheats, and fails. These applications require a scan tool to check the module.

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On newer Cadillac models, the blower motor and power module are combined into one unit. If the fan isn’t working, you can’t bypass the relay with a jumper wire to see if the fan motor is spinning. You have to replace the entire unit (which is very expensive). Again, using a scan tool can help you diagnose the error. On some 1998 thru 2003 Cadillac Sevilles, the air conditioning outlet temperatures may rapidly cycle, blowing hot air then cold air, or it may oscillate between panel and floor modes. The problem isn’t the fan motor, it’s the control logic of the ATC system. The system allows the evaporator temperature to vary too much, which can cause the system to behave erratically and go into “berserk” mode under certain operating conditions. The solution here is to reflash the computer with an update from GM.

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