Bamboo Root Barrier Uk? All Answers

MARK QUINN >

Lawyer

Many homeowners or potential buyers should be aware of the problems that arise when Japanese knotweed is present on their property or even on a neighboring property. Increasingly, similar problems are also “emerging” with other types of invasive plants. In this article, we outline the issues surrounding Japanese knotweed and bamboo, as well as the legal options a property owner may need to consider.

Why is Japanese knotweed a problem?

Japanese knotweed, also known as Japanese bamboo, is an invasive non-native plant species. It was introduced to Britain as an ornamental plant in the 19th century. The main problems for a homeowner with Japanese knotweed on their property are:

Physical damage to buildings and property.

Difficulties in eradicating and disposing of the plants. This process can be expensive and time consuming.

and time consuming. Your property can be devalued.

The marketability of your property may be reduced.

It can be more difficult to insure your home.

Potential buyers, renters or lenders may be discouraged from proceeding where Japanese knotweed is present.

It can also result in criminal and civil liability for owners or residents.

The Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS) offers a comprehensive fact sheet on Japanese knotweed and home ownership. It details the damage it can do to property, as well as the potential impact on property value and insurance.

British Law on Japanese Knotweed

Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act of 1981, the growth of Japanese knotweed can subject an owner or proprietor to criminal prosecution if they fail to treat the plant in accordance with the law. However, we will address the civil liability associated with this facility below.

If an owner or occupant allows knotweed to spread to neighboring properties, their neighbor may be able to initiate a common law proceeding against them for private harassment. The owner of the affected property can claim compensation for:

The loss of joy or convenience (which may amount to a devaluation of their property)

property damage

The cost of moving (which can often take up to two years and may need to be covered by a guarantee)

An injunction against reinfestation and/or requiring measures to control knotweed

One of the leading Japanese Knotweed cases is Network Rail v. Williams (Court of Appeals). What is interesting about this case is that rhizome contamination alone may be enough for the applicant to demonstrate damage to their land. Harassment can also be caused by inaction or omission, as well as positive activity. So a resident can be held liable for the continued harassment of another person if they fail to remedy it despite having had sufficient time to do so.

Bamboo and Japanese Knotweed

Bamboo is not classified as an invasive species under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 and there are currently no restrictions on planting. However, cases of intervention are becoming more frequent; Homeowners are increasingly taking legal action against neighbors who have allowed bamboo to spread. In fact, Professor Max Wade (of the Property Care Association) has said that bamboo could be the Japanese knotweed of tomorrow.

As with Japanese knotweed, a common law private harassment proceeding is instituted. The plaintiffs are also seeking similar compensation to those listed above.

Should you require any further advice on the UK Japanese Knotweed Act or assistance with getting bamboo or Japanese Knotweed onto your property, please contact us.

Contact Counseling Counsel Mark Quinn at our Peterborough office on 01733 865136 or click on the ‘Contact Us’ button to email him direct.

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You must have heard that bamboo is very invasive and can damage nearby planted properties. Are you now wondering whether you should get on with planting bamboo or get rid of the bamboo in your garden? Let’s find out!

If left unchecked, bamboo can grow through cracks and holes into buildings. Bamboo rhizomes can shoot up shoots and invade a building and eventually damage property. However, due to its strength, bamboo will not damage solid concrete. But there’s one thing most people don’t understand: not all bamboo does!

Only the walking species of the bamboo species do this. They are invasive in their growth behavior. But they are really pretty! You might fall in love with them and decide to plant them. In this article I will show you how to prevent them from spreading.

First, how does bamboo grow?

In spring, bamboo plants produce new stalks. These culms appear and grow in both diameter and height for about 60 days (this may vary in some species). Within this time they produce leaves.

After that, the bamboo stem would never grow in diameter and height again. Although bamboo does not experience secondary growth, it puts up new leaves annually.

Now you should know that bamboo belongs to the grass family. Therefore, she usually produces more plants and expands her root structure. However, bamboo takes about three years to become established.

New shoots sprout in spring and continue to grow. Depending on the species, they reach their maximum size in different periods of time.

However, a few factors can determine how fast a bamboo plant will grow. These factors include soil quality, sunlight, climate, and water conditions.

Now you must have known that there are two types of bamboo plants: clump and running. The way they grow is a little different, I’ll tell you what I mean!

Clumping bamboo

Clumping bamboo grows in large tufts. The shoots of this type of bamboo would go straight up from where you originally planted them.

Normally, clumping bamboo would only expand a few inches around the main root each year. This way the rhizomes will stick in one place and you don’t have to worry about spreading.

On the other hand, running bamboo spreads quickly through far-traveling rhizomes. These lead to new shoots over a very long distance.

Its roots can travel up to 30 m! So you see, the rhizomes of the running bamboo expand rapidly and this makes the plant invasive. Most people have complained about how bamboo destroyed their concrete and building, but let’s find out how bamboo does it.

Learn more about the two types of bamboo here!

How does bamboo destroy concrete and buildings?

The walking bamboo destroys structures by finding openings. Generally, bamboo rhizomes stay 1 foot below the surface except they have no room to grow. You can meander between roof shingles. And yes, bamboo can also grow into buildings through pipes, such as heating ducts.

Bamboo rhizomes can send shoots up through cracks in patios. Even driveways are not safe, the bamboo plant can buckle them when the rhizomes spread underneath.

In a building with weak foundation or cracks, the bamboo rhizome would enter the crack and grow thicker there. After all, they cause problems and damage the building.

Planting bamboo near your building can become a nightmare. It can damage the foundation of your home, especially if it is made of brick. On the other hand, bamboo will not easily damage intact concrete due to its sturdiness and density. However, it can destroy wooden structures and asphalt.

However, this does not have to happen. Don’t get me wrong, bamboo ALWAYS does this. Bamboo rhizomes travel in search of water. Granted, if they can travel. If left uncared for and thirsty, they can take over your pool or pond.

How to prevent bamboo from damaging your property?

All these horrific scenarios may have put you off. Well, I hope you’ll stay with me a little longer to learn how to prevent bamboo damage to your property.

In fact, these scenarios are the worst cases. If you maintain your runners and take precautions, you won’t have these problems at all. Another option is to plant clumping bamboo. They are the safe bet for people who don’t want a plant that needs a lot of attention.

Learn more about clumping bamboo here!

Before I tell you what precautions you should take and what maintenance you need to do when walking bamboo, let’s take a look at some invasive but beautiful bamboo species.

What walking bamboo species can ruin concrete and buildings?

Here I have listed some of the most invasive bamboo plants. They spread quickly, so if you must plant them you must have a method of controlling them.

Golden Bamboo

Phyllostachys aurea ‘Golden Bamboo’

Average height: 8-11 m (27-35 feet)

: 27-35 feet (8-11 m) Average diameter: 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm)

1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm) Hardiness: 5°F (-15°C)

: 5°F (-15°C) USDA Zones: 6-10

Learn more about Golden Bamboo here!

Golden bamboo is probably the most invasive species in the US. It’s even banned in many areas. It can invade a large field and prevent other plants from growing in the area.

However, Phyllostachys aurea is very good for shielding and visual barriers. The beautiful canes are usually green but turn yellow in sunlight. People love the looks of this species and as long as you keep up with the care you shouldn’t have any problems.

Phyllostachys nigra ‘Black Bamboo’

Average height: 6-11 m (20-35 feet)

20-35 feet (6-11 m) Average diameter: 2.25 inches (6 cm)

: 2.25 inches (6 cm) Hardiness : 5°F (-15°C)

: 5°F (-15°C) USDA Zones: 7 through 10

Learn more about Black Bamboo here!

Black bamboo is a unique plant native to Taiwan and China. New canes turn green and turn ebony black within years of exposure to sunlight.

Phyllostachys bamboooides ‘Tanakae’

Average height: 45 feet (13 m)

45 feet (13 m) Average diameter: 3 inches (7 cm)

: 3 inches (7 cm) Hardness : -3°F (-19°C)

: -3°F (-19°C) USDA Zones: 6b through 11

Learn more about Tanakae here!

This bamboo has a stunning appearance that sets it apart from other types of bamboo. It has green culms with brown and purple spots. These spots come out as they mature and they are the reason why the plant is known as leopard bamboo. Tanakae is a rare but very decorative species.

Hibanobambusa Tranquillans ‘Shiroshima’ (Source: flickr)

Hibanobambusa tranquillans ‘Shiroshima’

Average height: 2-5 m (6-16 feet)

: 6-16 ft (2-5 m) Average diameter : 0.75 in (2 cm)

: 0.75 in (2 cm) Hardiness : -5°F (-18°C)

: -5°F (-18°C) USDA Zones: 6a-9

Shiroshima has beautiful leaves and is one of the tallest growing bamboos. Some of the leaves appear cream colored with green stripes. The leaves also turn pink when exposed to sunlight.

However, Shiroshima is an aggressive bamboo plant. She can grow in almost any light condition, both indoors and outdoors. It quickly creates large privacy screens.

Kuma Zasa Bamboo

Average height: 5 feet (1.5 m)

: 5 feet (1.5 m) Average diameter : 5 inches (12.7 cm)

: 5 inches (12.7 cm) Hardness : 5°F (-15°C)

: 5°F (-15°C) USDA Zones: 7-10

This is an excellent bamboo. New leaves sprout green and get a frosted edge in autumn. It is considered a shrub bamboo native to Japan. It is used for bamboo leaf tea.

Its winter foliage is undoubtedly beautiful. Kuma zasa bamboo grows to a height of 5 feet at maturity. As an undergrowth plant, it does very well in a partially shaded area. It can take a lot of moisture.

How to stop the spread of bamboo?

There are several methods you can use to avoid the invasive spread of your bamboo plant. I’ll mention a few methods below, but we also have a full article on how to stop running bamboo from spreading.

Bamboo root barrier

This is a step you should always do. A root barrier helps you immensely with the rhizomes. It is the best way to control running bamboo variety.

There are two types of root barriers you can use: you can use the side open barrier and the fully enclosed barrier. I would always recommend the open barrier because you want a healthy plant. You can’t just think that bamboo will stop growing when it’s caged.

It will still spread. An open side gives the bamboo space. On this side you must use one of the following methods to sustain the invasion.

Note: Regular checking of the root barrier is also important! It may have shifted or cracked, and then it won’t help you anymore.

Cancel new recordings

This is an easy way to control the spread of bamboo. In this case, you need to remove fresh shoots. New shoots will grow once a year in spring and you can easily remove them once they have grown to 6 to 12 inches.

In fact, new shoots have a high water content and this encourages rapid growth of bamboo in the first 60 days. During this time you can easily snap off the new rods and they will never grow back at that particular spot.

To break off new shoots, you must first identify the unwanted shoots. The shoots that emerge outside of your desired growth area. New shoots are very fragile. You can remove them with a quick kick or with a swing blade.

Once you get rid of the new shoots, you can rest until next spring. You should also know that there are late shooters. The majority, however, will shoot in the spring.

While canceling shots helps preserve a specific area, you haven’t completely solved the problem. Root pruning should also be done.

root cutting

You can stop bamboo from spreading by cutting off the underground roots – rhizomes. Root cutting is a good method if bamboo has been planted near the property. This procedure would prevent rhizomes from migrating into unwanted areas. Then these cannot produce new hives that would stop the spread.

Cutting roots can be done with a sharp spade, you just need to dig into the ground and remove the stubborn rhizomes. You can remove them about 2 feet from the main plant. You can do this twice a year to keep the bamboo in check.

Have you found another perfect method to stop your bamboo from spreading? Let us know in the comments!

If you have ever grown bamboo, you must have wondered how to stop bamboo from spreading. It may sound impossible, especially since most weed-suppressing ground covers won’t stop it, but there are actually many effective ways to prevent bamboo from invading your garden.

At the same time, if you’re looking to introduce a bamboo plant into your backyard ideas, you should think about ways to prevent bamboo from spreading. By doing this when you first plant your bamboo, you save yourself the challenge of controlling an unwieldy plant later.

Despite its invasive tendencies, bamboo is actually a very beneficial plant when managed effectively. Due to its fast growing nature, bamboo is often planted for privacy screens as its dense, evergreen leafy appearance makes it an ideal plant for creating privacy screen ideas in the garden.

“Moreover, bamboo is an animal-resistant plant. Deer, raccoons, rabbits and other mammals are not at all attracted to it, so planting bamboo in your garden can prevent animals from getting into your other plants,” explains Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO of Lawn Love (opens in new tab). .

(Image credit: Getty Images)

How to prevent bamboo from spreading?

When it comes to figuring out how to stop bamboo from spreading, there are a variety of methods to choose from, from physical barriers to chemical treatments.

Bamboo plants have two distinct growth patterns, there are clumped rhizomes and runny rhizomes. Clumping rhizomes are the more manageable of the two and can easily be stopped from spreading with regular pruning. However, bamboo plants with exuding rhizomes are more problematic.

Bamboo plants with running rhizomes can grow underground up to 20 feet from the main plant. “If left alone, rhizomes will migrate under driveways, patios, house foundations, and even through the cracks in concrete floors like sheds and garages,” say experts at Rhizome Barrier (opens in new tab). So if you are growing bamboo with running rhizomes, it is important that you know how to stop bamboo from spreading.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

1. Stop bamboo from spreading by installing a barrier below the surface

Using a subsurface barrier or root barrier to stop bamboo from spreading is one of the most common methods. It’s very similar to planting your bamboo in a large pot submerged below ground. The barrier will hold the roots and prevent stolons from appearing elsewhere in your garden.

There are several root barrier options that you can choose from. Typically these root barriers are made from high density polyethylene and are purchased in rolls that are unrolled and buried underground to enclose the plant and prevent the roots from spreading. If you want to prevent bamboo from spreading, opt for a root barrier that is 24 to 30 inches deep and at least 60 mils thick.

One of the most efficient ways to stop bamboo from spreading is through root barriers, which are fairly easy to install. Just dig a trench around your entire bamboo plant. Dig two inches shallower than your root barrier—for example, for a 30-inch deep barrier, dig a 28-inch trench—since you want to keep a small portion of the barrier above ground to prevent runners from crossing the barrier. Then install the barrier, overlapping at the joint and backfilling.

You can also install an underground barrier around an existing bamboo plant, but you must manually break any rhizomes or roots that have crossed the boundary prior to installation.

2. Separate the rhizomes to prevent bamboo from spreading

(Image credit: Future/Claire Lloyd Davies)

Inexpensive but physically challenging severing the rhizomes, also known as root pruning, is a simple but effective method of stopping bamboo from spreading.

“All you have to do is take a spade or shovel and stick it into the ground on the outside edge where you want the bamboo to stop. Do it over and over, overlapping where you last poked your spade until you’ve gone around the perimeter. This breaks the roots at that edge and prevents them from growing past it,” explains Jeremy Yamaguchi.

The main disadvantage of this method is that it is temporary and you have to repeat it a few times every year to keep your bamboo plant from producing runners.

3. Prevent bamboo from spreading by growing in a pot

(Image credit: Getty Images)

By far the easiest way to stop bamboo from spreading is to plant it in a pot rather than directly in the ground. The pot contains the roots and prevents the bamboo from sending runners into the soil. Bamboo is also a beautiful addition to container garden ideas and can be used as part of patio ideas to create a privacy screen or windbreak.

One note of note is that bamboo plants are very tenacious, so avoid placing your pot in soil as this will encourage the roots to grow through the pot’s drainage holes, thus sending out suckers.

4. Use a chemical weed killer – as a last resort

When researching how to stop bamboo from spreading, you will come across many different weed killers. While weed killers are effective, they are not the best option if you have other plants around or have pets or children free access to your yard. Weed killers should only ever be used as a last resort as they have a negative impact on wildlife gardening ideas. You should first try the physical methods to stop bamboo from spreading before reaching for a chemical solution.

If none of the above options worked, weed killers can provide an effective and effortless option that can be used to stop bamboo from spreading. Start by trimming the unwanted sticks down to the bottom. Then put on protective clothing and make sure children and pets are out of the way. Then apply a glyphosate-based weed killer to the stumps — this is the same method used to remove Japanese knotweed. Cover it with an old carpet and a tarp and make sure pets and children are kept away. Within a few days this will kill the unwanted plant without harming the main bamboo.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

How do I stop my neighbor’s bamboo from spreading?

You can prevent your neighbor’s bamboo from spreading by asking them to put a physical barrier around the plant or asking them to transplant the bamboo into a pot. If this is not possible, you can easily manage the runners that appear in your own garden. You can do this by manually severing the roots where they enter your property and then digging up any plants that establish themselves in your garden.

How do I permanently remove bamboo?

You can permanently remove bamboo by pouring boiling water on the exposed roots – this will scald the roots and then kill the plant. Start by cutting the bamboo plant as close to the ground as possible, then dig around the plant to expose the roots. Pour the boiling water onto the exposed roots. Be sure to dispose of discarded bamboo roots and stalks, either by burning or discarding them, as they can regrow if placed on a compost heap. This is also a popular way to get rid of weeds.

An alternative method is to simply dig up the plant. To do this, you need to cut the rhizomes and remove them from the ground. This is quite a labor intensive method and you need to make sure you have cut all the roots otherwise you will have stolons that will appear elsewhere in your garden.

Bamboo Barrier: We have Bamboo Rhizome Barrier to contain running bamboo. We stock three styles of rhizome barriers for pickup in Davis. The types of barriers we sell are as follows: Height Thickness Price 30 inch 80 mil (recommended for smaller stature Running Bamboos) $6.75 per foot 36 inch 80 mil (recommended for larger Phyllostachys sp. Timber Bamboos) 7, $75 per foot 24 in. 80 mil (can be used to clump bamboo if it is not allowed to spread beyond a certain point) $6 per foot

Ultra Heavy Duty Bamboo Stainless Steel Barrier Bars with Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts: Height Price 28″ high for use with 30″ barrier $60 34″ high for use with 36″ barrier $80

To install the rhizome barrier:

Rhizome barrier is often installed in either a fully enclosed or a one-sided arrangement to control running bamboo. The images shown below show the installation of a fully enclosed rhizome barrier. To do this, a 28-inch deep trench is prepared around the perimeter of the bamboo growing area using a 30-inch rhizome barrier. The barrier is placed in the trench so that it protrudes 2 inches from the ground. The ends of the barrier are brought together, holes drilled for the closure bar and the closure bar screwed. Inside the rhizome barrier the soil 16″ soil should be compacted hard soil, it can also be useful to have a 5″ layer of red lava sand at the very bottom as running bamboo rhizomes will not spread through a thick layer of red lava sand. The top 12″ of soil should make nice growing medium for the bamboo, often a mixture of topsoil and planting mix or compost is used. In a single sided rhizome barrier installation, the barrier is often placed in the ground a foot from a fence line to limit the spread of the bamboo into the neighbor’s garden and rhizome pruning is used to prevent the bamboo from taking over the garden where it is planted In both installation scenarios, the perimeter of the barrier needs to be monitored a few times a year to ensure that the rhizome not protrude past the top of the barrier into the soil outside the designated growing area When monitoring the area, any rhizomes that run along the inside of the barrier or begin to go over the barrier should be trimmed with pruning shears or pruning shears.

You can use our bamboo barrier installation service:

How to get rid of bamboo roots in your garden

How to block Bamboo

Bamboo – this is amazing stuff. Fast growing*, the largest member of the grass family**, tough as steel, edible (at least for pandas) and beautiful. But putting the wrong variety of bamboo in a home garden can be a recipe for disaster. Bamboo comes in two types, clumping and running. As you can imagine, clumping pretty much persists while running bamboo, well, runs. Left unchecked, running bamboo will spread to your yard and your neighbor’s yard if you’re not careful. This kind of scenario doesn’t add much to your popularity. Luckily, there are bamboo root barrier solutions, whether you’re planting bamboo from scratch or dealing with an established bamboo that’s thriving

How does bamboo spread?

Bamboo spreads by forming rhizomes (underground stems). These can grow very quickly under the right conditions, forming new shoots many meters away from the mother plant. Luckily, most bamboo rhizomes tend to sit in the top 20cm of topsoil, reducing the effort required to get to the bulk of the migrating shoots.

Using a bamboo root barrier to prevent spread

The best way to prevent bamboo from spreading is to control the rhizome. A suitable root barrier, such as FlexiRoot UV10 HDPE root barrier, can be used to contain the rhizomes of a new planting. The barrier is best left open along one side or section; This allows for drainage and provides an opportunity to prune the rhizomes once a year. This can be done by cutting through the rhizomes with a spade and digging out/pulling out each piece of the cut sections. The top of the barrier itself must be about 15 cm above the ground. A bark mulch can be used to fill the area to hide the visible bamboo root barrier. FlexiRoot UV10 HDPE root barrier has a built in resistance to damage from sunlight making it ideal for situations where part of the bamboo root barrier remains exposed after installation.

If you’re already faced with a runaway rhizome scenario, with bamboo shoots in places they shouldn’t be, you’ve got a slightly trickier, but not impossible, task. Full containment would be the way to go, but using a permeable bamboo root barrier (not a weed mat!) to allow for good drainage. After digging a trench around 50cm around the bamboo stand and removing any pieces of rhizome that you find, the barrier can be installed and the trench backfilled. BioRoot-X Barrier is a truly versatile bamboo root barrier product that allows drainage while preventing roots and rhizomes from emerging.

* The world record for fastest growing plant belongs to a bamboo, which has been shown to grow up to 91 cm per day. If this bamboo were driving a car, it would be going 0.00002 miles per hour. Not bad for a plant.

**According to the RHS Dictionary of Gardening, the tallest bamboo ever found in the tropics was found at 40 m (130 ft). If you sat on top of the London Eye, you would be face to face with the top of the stalks!

For further help and information call our friendly team on 0203 174 2187 or 01202 816134 or contact us online.

Bamboo is an excellent container plant. It offers an upright, evergreen screen for many uses. We have developed a special container for growing bamboo, the Sugi Bamboo Planter, as our flagship (60″ x 24″). Other options include galvanized metal storage tanks, cedar crates, and large cloth pots (Root Pouch).

The following points must be considered for long-term health and maintenance:

Smaller stolons generally grow better in containers than larger ones; Clumpers can thrive very well in containers, but they need partial shade to stay healthy. Good stolons for containers are Pseudosasa japonica, Phyllostachys aureosulcata, P. nigra and P. aurea. For clumping bamboo, most Fargesia make a beautiful container plant with a fountain-shaped plume of foliage. Groundcovers like Sasa make beautiful short, bushy container accents. The Fargesia and most Sasa definitely need afternoon shade or the leaves will burn. Use well-draining potting soil and ensure the container is well-draining at the bottom.

Expected height/stem diameter

Limited root space = limited height & smaller diameter. In general, the expected height is 1/2 to 3/4 of the maximum height. For example,

Black bamboo (a walking bamboo) can grow over 30 feet tall in the ground, but often won’t get taller than 15 feet when grown in a container. Clumping bamboo often reaches 10 feet in a planter as opposed to 12 to 15 feet in the ground. Clumping bamboo is shade-loving.

Resilience:

Bamboo grown in containers is less hardy than grown in soil. Container bamboo, especially those that are not well adapted to hot sun and cold winters, require more care in placement as they can be damaged if the pot overheats or freezes. A bamboo that is hardy to 0 degrees in the ground may suffer cold damage at 10 degrees if grown in a container. The larger the container, the more cold-resistant your bamboo will be.

Irrigation:

We recommend watering your containers when the top of the soil appears dry, until water comes out of the drainage holes at the bottom. Always monitor your plants for signs of dehydration, such as: B. leaves curling. In extreme heat we often water our bamboo every day, but in normal weather we water 2 to 3 times a week in summer or during longer dry periods. 1 to 2 gallons of water per session is usually sufficient, but this amount increases if the container is larger or the bamboo is root bound.

Soil/fertilization:

Bamboo does best in a neutral to slightly acidic, well-draining but moisture-retaining potting soil. We recommend fertilizing 3x per growing season (spring – summer) with a nitrogen-rich grass fertilizer, for example: 20-5-10 (NPK) with added iron. We also offer an 8-2-2 Organic Bamboo Fertilizer (this is a custom blend we developed at Bamboo Garden) to mix in with the potting soil. Always follow package directions for amount and frequency of use.

Repot/Share:

Depending on the size of the container, you will need to repot or divide every 5-10 years to maintain the bamboo’s optimal health and vitality. With our Sugi bamboo planters, bamboo can grow well for up to 10 years. If left uncared for, root bound bamboos can escape or even break their container. Repotting/dividing is best done in spring. Dividing means cutting the bamboo root mass in half and repotting the divisions into separate containers. Smaller divisions can also be made at this point. Our Sugi bamboo planters have the bottom removable so the bamboo can be squeezed out from underneath which is a great advantage for easy transplanting.

Container:

We recommend using our Sugi bamboo planter as it offers good insulation from both heat and cold and offers easy maintenance due to the trapezoidal shape and bamboo barrier linings. If metal storage tanks are used for bamboo, we recommend insulating the inside with Bamboo Barrier. Metal stock should also have additional drainage holes (1/2 diameter and ~2 per square foot) to ensure proper drainage. We recommend placing all containers on brick foundations to avoid eventual clogging of drainage holes or container deterioration.

Bamboo barriers:

Bamboo rhizomes can stick to porous surfaces like wood or clay. Therefore, we recommend lining each container with Bamboo Barrier to make removing your bamboo easier and to extend the life of the planter. Bamboo Barrier also provides extra insulation from heat and cold.

frequently asked Questions

CAN I TALK TO SOMEONE ABOUT MY BAMBOO QUESTIONS?

Yes you can. We are happy to take your call and provide you with expert advice on the bamboo you would like to buy. We can also give you hints and tips on how to get the most out of your bamboo as the key is in preparing your garden bed or what type of soil to use in a planter. Call Mike on 0419 871 844; Our opening hours can be found on our website under the heading “Contact”.

HOW FAST WILL MY BAMBOO GROW?

Your bamboo growth will depend on the type of bamboo you chose, how you prepared your garden bed, or what type of soil you used for your planter. Growth also depends on the weather and how much water it gets. But in general, you can expect your bamboo to reach its full height within 2-3 growing seasons.

CAN I EAT MY BAMBOO?

All types of bamboo form shoots, but these are only edible if you carefully prepare them beforehand by boiling the shoots several times and changing the water in between. Cooking reduces the bitter taste and breaks down the potentially toxic chemical toxins. In general, the larger bamboo species are tastier than the smaller varieties.

CAN I PRUNE MY BAMBOO TO REDUCE THE HEIGHT?

Yes you can. But within reason.

Removing the canopy allows more light to enter the “heart” of the bamboo – facilitating foliage growth from inside the clump. The result will be a much denser leafy plant. But there are limits to how much of a bamboo’s height you can remove and still end up with a good, healthy, happy plant.

Perhaps it’s best to remember that you could always choose a shorter style; This way no pruning is required.

Go to our Bamboo Facts section of our website and select Care and Maintenance for more information.

HOW MUCH SUN DOES MY BAMBOO NEED?

Most bamboo species, with a few exceptions, prefer to grow in full sun. Because of this, bamboo produces most of its foliage where there is maximum sun exposure, which is obviously at the top of the bamboo. If the bamboo is free standing and a good amount of sun reaches the base of the bamboo then it will also have good bushy foliage down to the ground.

However, when bamboos are planted in close proximity to each other or in the shade of other trees, little sun reaches the lower parts of the culms, which then results in less foliage growth at those lower levels. The bamboo will only put energy into leaf growth where there is good sunlight and thus the maximum opportunity for photosynthesis.

Another growth trait caused by bamboo growing in the shade is that it grows taller than it would otherwise grow in full sun. Since the bamboo wants the light, it will try to get it by growing bigger. A bamboo growing in the shade will always grow larger than the same species growing in full sun.

It’s important to understand both of these growth traits, as a given species of bamboo can look very different depending on the amount of sunlight it receives. Planting them in shady areas or close together will make them taller and less bushy below. When planted in full sun and widely spaced, they will be shorter and have thicker, bushier foliage down to the ground.

If you want to encourage more leaves on the lower tiers of the bamboo, you can make this easier by cutting off the tops of the bamboo, allowing more light to reach the underside. Also, simply thinning out the bamboo by removing old culms (by cutting them off completely at ground level) also helps to allow more light into the clump. This can be a minor snag 22 as you are removing culms (thus reducing the amount of foliage). However, the extra light reaching the rest of the bamboo culms will more than make up for this with the extra leaf growth it will encourage.

IS ALL THE BAMBOO IN MY NEIGHBOR’S GARDEN WILD?

No, definitely not! Only the running bamboo is invasive and can grow out of control and cause headaches for you and your neighbors. All of the bamboo we stock (with the exception of Nigra Black) is a clumping species and therefore only spreads within its typical footprint. Visit our Bamboo in Stock page on our website which contains the description of each species we sell.

Clumping bamboo has very tight, shallow, and non-invasive root balls, so they’re pretty safe to plant near fences, pipes, or pools. Since bamboo belongs to the “grass family”, bamboo roots do not expand like tree roots. If there are leaks in your pipes, bamboo roots will not enter the pipe and will expand their roots to aggravate the crack. This problem is ONLY caused by tree or palm roots, not clumped bamboo roots. Bamboo has a fine surface root system that doesn’t seek out and block drainpipes.

The root ball is generally only 500mm deep or less and they have no running roots.

However, due to the varying growth width (aka footprint) of clumping bamboo species, it’s important that you use the right species for your planting area. We can tell you which type is best for your area.

IS BAMBOO A HORRIBLE WEED?

Bamboo has a bad reputation due to the proliferating/invasive species of bamboo. Melbourne has been cursed with the highly invasive Golden Bamboo for many decades. If planted without borders, it will fulfill its duty to conquer the entire territory. However, this is a good looking, indestructible plant, fantastic for screening or even as a specimen plant on its own in just about any condition. If planted in a controlled area and checked for emergent rhizomes and their removal every few months, you won’t have any problems with it. Clumping bamboo species are a different plant altogether and don’t deserve the bad rap that the runny type has. Their roots form a clump and do not run away. Many people do not understand that such a bamboo plant with non-invasive properties exists. In fact, clumping bamboo is far less obtrusive than most trees and shrubs planted in any garden.

DELIVER?

Yes we do.

We can arrange delivery of your plants anywhere in Australia.

Prices and delivery times vary depending on your location and the size of your order.

On our website you can calculate the shipping costs when you add an item to your shopping cart. Or call us for a quote!

Once delivery has been arranged please be patient as it may take a few days before we are able to dispatch the delivery.

Please note that Tasmania, Western Australia and the Northern Territory have strict quarantine regulations which will incur additional charges.

WILL MY BAMBOO FIT IN MY CAR?

You’d be surprised how many bamboo pots fit in a standard sized vehicle! Most bamboos are very flexible and can therefore be bent/curved and laid down to fit in a small space without affecting the plant in any way, especially if you can fold down your back seat. You may even be able to create a larger storage area if you have a foldable trunk compartment. If you want we can certainly help you pack your bamboo in your car.

Larger pot sizes and more mature plants can be more difficult to mount. So if you’re looking for large plants we recommend a ute or trailer to make packing easier and make sure you have a tarp or sheet to cover them to avoid windburn on the journey home.

CAN YOU HELP ME PLANT MY BAMBOO?

We do not currently offer landscaping, but you can visit our handy and informative Plant Prep section of our website. It explains how to prepare and plant your bamboo so you get the most out of your plant. Feel free to pass this guide along to any landscaper you hire to ensure you get a great result!

IS BAMBOO A TROPICAL PLANT?

There are over 1200 varieties of bamboo around the world, growing from very cold temperate climates to the hot tropics. Most of the cold growing varieties are running types. There aren’t many clumping strains that thrive in this climate.

However, our stock only contains bamboo which is best suited to Melbourne’s climate and all but one (Nigra Black) are the clumping variety.

WHY IS BAMBOO SO EXPENSIVE?

Bamboo very rarely produces seed, so most propagation methods are by division or cuttings, both of which are labor intensive and slow to achieve a successful result.

Also, it takes a lot of time and effort for us to take care of our stock and make sure it stays healthy and ready for you to plant.

CAN BAMBOO BE A HOUSE PLANT?

We do not recommend growing bamboo indoors. Yes, it is possible, but there are many things to consider:

Light: lots of natural light but no direct sun through glass.

Soil: an open mix that contains moisture and nutrients.

Watering: very difficult to keep the right level of moisture in the soil. Overwatering quickly harms a plant, dehydration harms it even faster. Water may splash onto your floor/carpet.

Humidity: Indoors in Melbourne, the air is usually dry. Bamboo loves high humidity.

Air Flow: An open window nearby is very beneficial

Bugs: thrive on a houseplant. Spider mites, scales, mealybugs, etc. are difficult to control

DOES BAMBOO REQUIRE A LOT OF CARE?

Once planted in the right spot and given adequate water and nutrients for the first few months, your bamboo can be cared for like any other garden plant. A quick cleanup of dingy older culms is recommended to keep your bamboo looking its best.

IS BAMBOO GOOD FOR MONITORING MY NEIGHBORS?

Bamboo is an excellent screen plant. Thick, tall hedges are easy to achieve as bamboo is the world’s fastest growing plant on land. Semi-mature plants can be purchased and can provide an instant screen for your neighbors, or if you are patient, smaller younger plants can be planted and after a season or two the job is done. With its small footprint and rapid growth, nothing else compares.

Once new plants are established, bamboos are strong enough to do well with little extra help.

For bamboo with particularly attractive canes, you can remove some of the lower leaves that often obscure them.

When established plants begin to spread beyond their borders, the unwanted sections should be dug up and a physical barrier placed vertically in the ground to contain the plant.

Bamboo control Bamboo control

irrigation

Newly planted and established bamboos growing in the ground need regular watering during dry periods in summer.

Plants in containers can dry out more quickly, so they should be watered regularly and plentifully throughout the growing season.

Lack of water can lead to poor growth, leaf fall and death.

Complete Casting Guide Complete Casting Guide

feeding

Bamboos benefit from additional feeding:

A nitrogen-rich forage in spring (e.g. spring lawn forage).

A balanced fertilizer for the rest of the growing season until the end of August.

Don’t rake up fallen leaves as they contain silica, which bamboo can reuse to increase its strength and stability.

When growing in containers, bamboo requires additional feeding. Apply general liquid fertilization during the growing season: March through October.

Container maintenance Container maintenance

dead head

Bamboos very rarely flower, but when they do they produce tall feathery plumes.

There is a common myth that bamboos die after flowering. This is not always the case, but the chances of a full recovery are not good. The bloom can weaken a clump, and the foliage often turns brown.

Steps to support recovery:

If the plant only produces sporadic flowering shoots, cut them off immediately to prevent more from forming.

When the whole clump starts blooming, let it do it even if the plant looks awful. Fertilize and water regularly for the remainder of the growing season. Then, in spring, cut back the clump to ground level and feed it with a high-nitrogen fertilizer such as B. a spring lawn forage to encourage new growth from the base.

wintering

Most bamboos are hardy and therefore do not require additional care over the winter when growing in the ground.

For containerized bamboo, make sure the compost does not dry out over the winter as the foliage may begin to shrivel. If the container is in an exposed spot, move it to a more sheltered spot to protect the leaves from windburn. A sheltered location also protects larger plants from being blown over during winter storms.

In very cold weather, insulate the containers with bubble wrap to protect the roots from freezing, or place them in a spot with frost, such as a patio. B. in a cold greenhouse.

Preventing winter damage Preventing winter damage

Care of older plants

To keep bamboo growing strong or to keep clumps from getting too big, you can dig them up and divide them every few years.

This is relatively easy with smaller bamboos, but with a large plant it can be a major undertaking, so it’s not always practical. It’s likely a two-person job to dig up a large clump, and you’ll need to use a saw to cut through the root ball. Replant only the younger rhizomes and canes.

Check out our guide to dividing perennials like bamboo for more information.

When it comes to growing bamboo, one of the main concerns is how to contain or control it. Bamboo has a reputation for being unusually quick to spread and difficult to remove. In fact, this only applies to certain types of bamboo. But when planting any type of running bamboo, it’s important to take a few precautions.

One of the easiest ways to control the roots of an aggressive bamboo plant is to dig a trench around the area where you want to contain it. An effective bamboo ditch is about 30 inches deep and 12 inches wide. This ditch makes it easy to monitor the plant’s rhizome growth. For best results, you should check the ditch about twice a year during the growing season. Spreading rhizomes can easily be pruned when they reach the ditch.

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With bamboo: stolons and clumps

Not every bamboo is aggressive. We like to divide the 1,400 species of bamboo into two categories. Running bamboo has rhizome roots that grow horizontally, parallel to the ground, and always extend outward. Normally, these types of bamboo form a complex network of roots and rhizomes underground before they start sending up shoots.

In other words, by the time you see the fresh shoots, you may already have a serious problem on your hands.

We call the other types of bamboo clumping. Many gardeners prefer to plant clumping bamboo so they don’t have to worry about containment issues. As seen in the diagram above, the clumped rhizomes grow in a U-shape, always curving upwards. This way the shoots stay fairly close together.

Sometimes referred to as tropical bamboo, these clumping varieties tend to thrive better in warmer climates. But there are also a few genera of cold hardy clumping bamboo.

Clumping bamboo is lower maintenance for obvious reasons. However, running bamboo is usually more cold hardy and may have other desirable qualities depending on the species. So there can be good reasons to plant a running bamboo. But containment is key.

Bamboo Containment Methods

Unless you have unlimited space for your plants, running bamboo should always be included. And there are different ways to do that.

Plant a rhizome barrier around your bamboo

around your bamboo Store your bamboo in a pot or barrel

or a barrel Dig a trench around the perimeter

around the perimeter cut the roots very regularly (easiest if you have a ditch)

How to dig and maintain a bamboo trench

For best results, a bamboo trench should be about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Bamboo is a grass and the roots are relatively shallow. A 1 foot dig gives you enough room to see down to the bottom of the roots. And the width gives you enough room to stick your hands in to prune the rhizomes if you see them growing into the ditch.

The trench should run around the entire perimeter of the plant or around the area you want the bamboo to fill. You can dig the trench by hand with a good shovel or spade. Or you can use a motorized excavator. Of course, the larger the bamboo grove, the greater the incentive to invest in a power tool.

tools for the job

As with any construction or landscaping job, it’s all about having the right tool for the job. Luckily, there are a few tools that are perfect for digging around your bamboo.

Root Slayer Nomad and Root Slayer Shovel with a round handle are perfect for digging around bamboo.

Root Slayer makes two shovels that are perfect for digging trenches and cutting through those pesky bamboo roots and rhizomes. Check out the Root Slayer Shovel with the round handle for pushing and pulling and the Root Slayer Nomad, both with 31″ long steel handles.

The round-handled shovel has a slightly wider blade at 13″ than the Nomad’s 9″. The blades are made of carbon steel with a serrated edge for sawing. They are both available on Amazon. This digging shovel with a longer handle and a narrow 4-inch blade also works very well.

Check out more useful materials in our list of bamboo gardening tools.

management of the ditch

Depending on the location of the trench, you can either leave it open or fill it with something light. An open ditch is much easier to observe and check for rhizomes. But it could also be a stumbling block.

It’s usually best to fill the trench with sand, straw, or mulch. This material is easily removed for periodic inspection of rhizome activity.

You should go into the ditch about twice a year to inspect rhizome growth and reduce spreaders. Best twice during the growing season. In most cases this will be in early summer and again in early fall.

After a few seasons you will find that most of the rhizome activity is usually concentrated in the same specific spots. You can pay special attention to these areas and monitor them more regularly.

Combine a bamboo trench with a rhizome barrier

Another strategy is to bury a rhizome barrier on one side of the bamboo grove and dig a trench on the other side. This is called an open barrier.

Go here to check pricing and availability for the 30″ deep root barrier, 80 mil thick, our top choice.

An advantage is that the roots are not constricted on all sides, which means there is a risk of the roots getting stuck. And sometimes there are parts of the garden that are not accessible. There’s no point digging a ditch there if you can’t reach it.

concrete in your bamboo trench

Some gardeners prefer to fill their trenches with something more impermeable, like concrete. This is basically an alternative type of rhizome barrier. But if you intend to do this, the trench needs to be at least twice as deep. When the rhizomes hit the barrier, they move on, looking for a way out. Depending on the soil and the type of bamboo, a barrier should be 60 to 90 cm high.

Pros and cons of trenching for bamboo containment

A bamboo dig is one of the best ways to curb your running bamboo rhizomes. The main benefit over a rhizome barrier is that you prune the roots rather than just blocking them.

By blocking the rhizomes with a barrier, the rhizomes simply go in a different direction. Eventually, this can cause the roots to twist on top of each other. In other words, the plant becomes root bound. This can often be fatal.

Also, a rhizome barrier must be buried at least twice as deep as a ditch. If the roots hit the ditch, you can just cut them off. But when they encounter an obstacle, they often turn down and try to crawl under it.

The only real downside to a bamboo ditch is that you may find it unsightly to have a ditch along the perimeter of your bamboo grove. Also, someone could step in and trip. However, it is unlikely that anyone would walk or run that close to the bamboo. Plus, it’s pretty easy to cover the trench or fill it in with something light and unobtrusive like mulch-dried leaves.

Continue reading

If you enjoyed reading about how to dig and maintain a bamboo trench to manage your grove, please consider sharing or subscribing to the blog. You can also check out these other in-depth articles.

FEATURED PHOTO: A well-dug trench around a grove of running bamboo (Phyllostachys). Photo by Vince Del.

An effective bamboo barrier is long enough to completely enclose the perimeter of the bamboo bundle, with enough material to allow the edges of the plastic panels to overlap. As you attach each piece of barrier, leave at least 2 inches of material above the ground to prevent the rhizomes from growing over it. The edges where each section of barrier meets should overlap at least 3 feet to ensure the bamboo rhizomes don’t grow between them and escape the boundary. Wipe dirt from the overlapping sides of each panel and secure with liberal amounts of double-sided outdoor mounting tape. After the barrier is assembled and in place, fill in the trench with the dirt you took from it.

The best bamboo plant varieties

Bamboo plants, which belong to the grass family, have hollow evergreen stems, or culms, and come in two main forms: clumping and running. Clumping bamboos spread more slowly because the growth pattern of their underground rhizomes is to gradually expand the root zone, similar to ornamental grasses. They can be used effectively for ornamental or rock gardens, or as container plants. Running bamboos, on the other hand, can be extremely vigorous, making them well suited to creating a sweeping windbreak or hedge. The canes of the running bamboo are also sent up from underground rhizomes, but they spread faster and farther, sending new shoots up to break the surface at various points.

The best running bamboo plant varieties

One of the strongest growing evergreen bamboos available, making it ideal for hedging or privacy purposes. It has light green canes that turn a beautiful intense yellow when fully mature if grown in full sun. The swollen internodes at the base of each cane provide ornamental value and make it easy to distinguish from other bamboo forms. It grows upright quickly and is ideal for planting alongside driveways and walkways, typically reaching a height of around 5 or 6 metres. When fully grown, the culms grow close together which, combined with their dense foliage, provides an excellent visual and sound barrier.

An unusual, elegant variety with tall, curved canes that are dark green when young, maturing to a polished ebony black after two to three years. These are slender and glossy and contrast beautifully with the elongated, bottle green, frothy evergreen foliage. It naturally forms a dramatically tall, upright shape that blends particularly well with water, where it creates eye-catching reflections. Perfect for a contemporary, minimalist or oriental garden, it looks great grown alongside an evergreen shrub with leaves that contrast against the black canes.

A beautiful, compact dwarf Japanese bamboo with tough, light green, evergreen leaves that fan out in neatly arranged clusters, giving the appearance of a palm or fern. One of the smallest bamboos available with a spreading, carpet-forming habit, it is perfect as a ground cover where it can be trimmed or mowed to keep it at an even height. It also makes a good bonsai plant and is a great choice for growing in a container in a Japanese themed garden.

A beautiful, spreading dwarf bamboo with oblong, dark green, evergreen leaves that have a rich creamy yellow stripe down the center. Perfect for use as a ground cover or to fortify embankments and slopes, it can be kept short by mowing the foliage in spring or cutting back to ground level before the plant sends out new shoots. In very cold winters, the leaves can die back, resulting in a fresh production of distinctively striped foliage in spring. We recommend mulching with well-rotted garden compost over the winter to protect the roots from frost damage. A dependable and hardy variety that is widely regarded as the most desirable groundcover bamboo.

A vigorous, spreading, evergreen bamboo with broad, glossy, dark green leaves that wilt at the edges in autumn. This creates a beautiful pale bronze chroma effect that looks like parchment and contrasts nicely with the glossy center of the leaves. It develops a strong, spreading root system, making it suitable for stabilizing embankments and slopes or as a medium-tall ground cover plant. The purple-green canes give it a tropical look that’s enhanced when it gets some shade in the afternoon. If you’re growing Sasa Veitchii as ground cover, we recommend pruning them back to a few inches above the ground in late winter or early spring.

The best clumping bamboo plant varieties

An evergreen dwarf bamboo with a taut, clumping habit and low, arching branches. It has the freshest foliage of any bamboo species and makes a dense, bushy specimen that doesn’t exceed 2 meters in height. The light green leaves appear early when the other bamboos can look a bit dull, making them ideal for adding a splash of color to smaller gardens in spring. Although it prefers a sheltered site, it will tolerate coastal sites provided conditions are not too extreme. Winner of the prestigious RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1992, this is a great variety to use as a complement to any other form of bamboo.

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This article appeared in the March 2002 issue of Horticulture Update,

published by dr. William C. Welch and produced by Extension Horticulture,

Extension of the Texas Cooperative, The Texas A&M University System, College Station, Texas.

Root Barriers This article (copyright 1997) appears on the website of

Professional Engineering Inspections, Inc

www.profengineering.com/root.htm he process of cutting off the roots of trees growing near a building and installing a barrier to prevent their re-establishment in the area where they are not wanted is called Installing a root barrier, called a root wall, or root caps. The need for root barriers is due to the fact that extensive clay soils shrink when they dry out. Any structure that supports extensive clay soil moves downward as the soil dries and shrinks. If the soil dries on one side of the structure and not the other, the soil will shrink where it has dried and remain expanded where it has not dried, causing the structure to experience differential settlement. Different settlements can cause serious damage to a structure. A root barrier is usually installed between concrete foundations or flatwork and adjacent trees, within their mature height from the foundation and where there is extensive clay soil, to prevent tree roots from consuming moisture from the soil beneath the affected area (Figure 1). The barriers are installed so that they intersect imaginary radial lines extending from the tree trunk to the edges of the foundation. Root barriers can prevent damage to flat concrete such as sidewalks and driveways, or to concrete slabs on level foundations. In some cases it is possible that differential settlements that have occurred due to soil shrinkage can be reversed. The soil beneath a structure swells or expands when rehydrated, raising the portion of the structure that has undergone differential settlement to near the level of the structure where differential settlement has not occurred. illustration 1

(Click on figure 1 to see a larger image)

Root barriers can be constructed of any impervious, durable material that can withstand being buried in the ground for an extended period of time. Current information states that root barriers must be installed to a minimum depth of 30 inches and extend far enough above the soil surface to prevent roots from growing above the surface (Figure 2). There are root protection materials that are moisture permeable but do not allow roots to grow through due to the chemical composition of the barrier. In our opinion, permeable root barriers should only be used under special conditions, as the impermeable barriers keep moisture where it is wanted. figure 2

(Click on figure 2 to see a larger image)

Large trees with taproots, such as B. Pecan trees can affect soil volume to a depth greater than the 30 inches noted above. There is evidence that large pecan trees dry out the soil to the “water table”, causing it to shrink at great depth. Where pecan trees have been removed to erect a building, the soil where the pecan tree was removed has swollen, causing extensive damage to the interior of the structures. Pecan trees present near a building have caused less differential movement than other trees during prolonged dry periods, likely because the taproot draws much of the trees’ water needs from the “aquifers” typically found within 20 feet of the surface . Root barriers between pecan trees and trees of a similar species have the effect of reducing shrinkage of the ground on which a building rests. When there is a desire to improve the unevenness of a structure by rehydrating the supporting soil and large trees are involved, a root barrier must be installed. In this case, re-leveling can be accelerated by installing a foundation irrigation system. The irrigation system should be arranged to deliver water evenly around the foundation of a structure during prolonged periods of drought. Soil moisture levels should be maintained at an optimal level to avoid waterlogging or soil oversaturation. This condition currently appears to be a subjective assessment on the part of the drinking system operator. The moisture provided must be sufficient to prevent the soil from shrinking during prolonged periods of drought, but free water should not be allowed to pool at the perimeter or underside of a foundation. The installation of a root cap, root barrier or root wall should be performed by a qualified tree professional if there are concerns about the health of the tree whose roots are to be cut. Most tree professionals in the Houston area have installed root walls and are familiar with their effects on trees. If a root barrier is installed between a tree and a structure where the tree is surrounded by large areas of flat concrete or other buildings, there may not be enough moisture for the tree to continue living. The installation of root barriers should always be carried out as part of a foundation maintenance program. For general guidelines for footing care and maintenance on extensive clay soils, see our footing care document.