Base Layer Sewing Pattern? 300 Most Correct Answers

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What should a base layer be made of?

Good base layers are made from synthetic, wool, silk, or bamboo fibers—more on each option below. Avoid cotton, which takes too long to dry and pulls heat away from the body, which will leave you cold and uncomfortable.

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It all starts very simply – you’re reading the profile of a successful Olympic skier or maybe you see an Instagram post from a cozy chalet in the mountains. Next, google “what is a base layer” and research Colorado winter hiking destinations.

While we love the outdoor opportunities that summer affords, there’s just as much to do outside in the winter season – but the right attire makes all the difference. The trick to staying warm is in the right base layers. And the good news is, they don’t have to cost a fortune!

Here’s what you need to know about base layers to stay warm this winter, whether you’re lounging at après or heading out on a mile-long hike:

What is a “base layer” and why are they important?

Compression underwear is the layer of clothing closest to your skin and it plays an important role in temperature regulation. They’re engineered to retain heat while wicking sweat away from your skin, which is crucial to staying comfortable and warm when transitioning between hot indoors and cold outdoors, or engaging in outdoor winter activities.

Base layers come in both top and bottom styles and are meant to fit snugly against your skin.

Do I need base layers?

In winter: yes! Base layers are important because they provide an extra layer of insulation while wicking sweat away from the skin. If you’re going from hot to cold throughout the day, or if you’re doing activities that could make you sweat in a colder environment, you should definitely choose base layers.

What should I look for in a baselayer?

Look for two things:

A tight fit. You don’t want your base layers to be loose as they are intended to serve as an insulating layer. A loose base layer can allow cold air to circulate close to your skin, defeating the purpose of the layer. A moisture wicking material. Good base layers are made from synthetic, wool, silk or bamboo fibers – more on each option below. Avoid cotton, which takes too long to dry and draws heat away from the body, making you feel cold and uncomfortable.

Which is better – synthetic, silk, wool or bamboo?

It depends what you are looking for! Most base layers are made of synthetics, silk or wool. There are also new bamboo base layers which are a great vegan alternative or an option for those whose skin is irritated by wool fibres. Here is a brief introduction to each:

synthetic

Synthetic base layers are often cheaper, making them an attractive entry-level option. The downside of synthetic fabrics is that they aren’t inherently antimicrobial, so they can get a bit smelly after a while. They’re also not that good at insulating heat, so they might not be the best choice for really cold climates.

Choose a synthetic base layer if… you’re moving to a milder climate, you’re a beginner, or you’re doing a sweaty activity. A good choice if you’re trying out the winter climate for a weekend but aren’t willing to invest in more expensive materials.

silk

You might be surprised to hear that silk makes a great winter base layer! The benefit of silk is that it’s super light and not bulky, while still acting as an effective and naturally moisture-wicking insulating layer. The downside here is cost and maintenance, but a well-cared for silk underwear set can last for years.

Go for a silk base layer if… you want a low profile but warm base layer that works well under other clothing and you’re willing to pay a little more. A solid choice for everyday layering or casual activities.

Merino wool

Most of us here at Kinfield are uncompromisingly Team Merino when it comes to base layers, and we’re not alone. Merino wool is one of the best types of base layers you can buy for a reason. It’s the warmest option, naturally moisture wicking, antimicrobial (no nasty odors!) and relatively easy to care for. The only downsides here are the cost and the fact that wool can be a bit bulkier than silk, sometimes making it more difficult to layer.

Choose a wool base layer if… you want a versatile, all-round option and are willing to invest in a layer that you’ll wear for years to come. You really can’t go wrong with merino layers – just make sure to care for them according to the label. Many are machine washable these days, but they stay intact longer when hung to dry.

bamboo

Bamboo base layers are a fairly new creation, but they’re a great alternative for anyone wanting a vegan option or if your skin might be irritated by wool fibers. Bamboo materials are also antimicrobial and often even have better moisture transport than wool or silk, making them a good choice for sports too. The only downside to bamboo sheets is that they are not as widely available and are still more expensive than synthetics.

Choose a bamboo base layer if… you’re vegan, allergic to wool or looking for a natural fiber option for active sports.

Cotton

Cotton is a terrible base layer because it pulls heat away from your skin and takes forever to dry once you sweat in it. Opt for something different.

Ready to equip? Here are some of our team’s favorite base layer brands:

Best for wool: Smartwool

Our favorite wool layers – her leggings and quarter zips are everyone’s favourites.

Best for affordability: 32 degrees

A super affordable option with most layers under $25, 32 Degrees makes synthetic layers in XS-XL.

Best for prints: Kari Traa

Nobody wears Scandinavian-inspired layers like Olympic skier Kari Traa’s eponymous line. They come in a variety of colorful prints and a range of materials.

Best for Inclusive Resizing: REI Co-Op

A wide range of colors and an extensive range of sizes (XS to 3X) make these a great option for silk and merino wool.

Best for Sports: Patagonia

We’re a bunch of Patagonian Stans here, and it’s not hard to see why. Patagonia makes solid products, and their base layers are no exception. Their long sleeve crew options are a favorite for winter hiking.

Best for Bamboo: Bambool

Bambool uses both bamboo and wool materials, making it a functional companion for outdoor sports.

The best for the whole year: Freefly clothing

Freefly Apparel uses bamboo fiber for a great year-round option in a variety of cuts and colors.

Best for Silk: L.L. beans

We love their silk layers for men and women and their sizes included.

Best for Socks: Darn Tough

They only make socks, but they make socks VERY well. And with their lifetime warranty, buying them is a breeze.

See you out there!

How many base layers should you own?

Three layers of clothing will keep you dry and warm: a base layer for removing moisture, a mid-layer to keep you warm, and an outer layer to protect you from the elements.

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Are base layers necessary?

Base layers will keep you warmer than being naked, or even wearing a t-shirt, but a real base layer (not so called “thermals“) is not meant to keep you warm. What base layers are meant to do is to prevent you from getting cold – this might sound like semantics, but it is not.

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You might already be ready for an argument about, “But I’m warmer in my underwear,” you’re likely to angrily reply to the screen (though you can also comment below…), but wait a second — I have a point here . Base layers keep you warmer than being naked or even wearing a t-shirt, but a real base layer (not so-called “thermos”) is not meant to keep you warm. Base layers are designed to keep you from getting cold—that might sound like semantics, but it’s not. If you can accept the basic rule that base layers are there to keep you cool, not to keep you warm, you’re much more likely to buy the right product, feel more comfortable when you’re active, and stop shopping to support huge false marketing system (which we are all against?).

Base layers are designed to protect you from the cold, not to keep you warm

The question of which base layer is the warmest and which one should I get to keep myself warm is one of the questions I’ve heard the most in my time in outdoor retail. This is no coincidence – retailers and brands alike are trying to tell us that this base layer is super thermal (not something like that) and will keep us nice and warm without adding bulk. If you believe this idea, you will probably also accept that you should have several of these layers to “layer” and other myths told on outdoor store floors. To put an end to this, read my post on insulation to understand why your base layer can’t keep you warm if you’re static (hint: it’s called conduction).

I don’t expect anyone to take my word for it, so here’s the full explanation of why your base layer shouldn’t keep you warm:

The Heat Loss Quartet (or why we use base layers)

Energy loss (in the form of heat) can occur in 4 ways:

Conduction – contact between two objects at different temperatures, such as your body and the air Convection – air movement carries away the energy, i.e.: Wind chill Radiation – transfer of heat without direct contact via infrared rays, such as solar heat transfer from liquid to gas, i.e. sweat

These 4 energy loss processes are treated in different ways in outdoor clothing and we use different tools for each:

Conduction – Requires insulation to prevent direct contact with cold air, rain or snow

– Requires insulation to prevent direct contact with cold air, rain or snow

– Wind and waterproof layers help to cool the body down even more from wind chill, best used over insulation in very cold conditions. Radiation – requires the use of even thicker insulation to push the colder air away from the body

– requires the use of even thicker insulation to push the colder air away from the body. Evaporation – Using base layers to prevent sweat evaporation from the skin but facilitate evaporation from the base layer itself

And that’s exactly how we explained what a base layer does and how it fits into our layering system. As you can imagine, base layers have some degree of conductivity or radiation protection because they have a certain volume of matter. The thicker and smarter the fabric, the more it offers some sort of insulation, but at its core are base layers to prevent evaporation.

How base layers work and how to use them

Let’s talk sweat

Sweating (sweating) is one of those amazing biological mechanisms that nature created to ensure that mammals don’t overheat and suffer from internal organ failure. Different mammals sweat in different ways (like the tongue in dogs), but humans sweat directly across their skin via sweat glands.

The main idea behind sweating is to cool the body through evaporation when we are warm – whether overdressed, active or just in a warm environment. The body strives to stay at an average temperature of 36.6°C and will use any means necessary to do so: shivering to warm up muscles (while burning calories), lifting hair to trap more heat in the air, or sweating to cool down the muscles and skin and therefore the rest of the body. Actual evaporation is the movement of liquid sweat into a gaseous vapor that is released into the air; This movement also consumes a lot of energy and quickly cools the surface from which it evaporates.

The base layer as a second skin

Now that the concept of perspiration is clear, it’s easy to see where an underlayer fits into the story: In cold conditions, or in situations where rapid cooling of the skin is not desirable, perspiration can come from the underlayer rather than from the skin evaporate. For this to work, the base layer needs to have as much skin contact as possible (to avoid “pooling” spots), which means they’re very, very tight. It’s also why base layers are often referred to as “second skins” because that’s exactly what they’re meant to be: the layer that cools in place of your skin.

In addition to being skin tight, baselayers have two other essential properties:

Very good at absorbing sweat: The fabric must be hydrophilic (absorbent) on the inside in order to “pull” sweat away from the skin as quickly as possible.

: The fabric must be hydrophilic (absorbent) on the inside to “pull” sweat away from the skin as quickly as possible. Dry as quickly as possible: if sweat lingers in the fabric for too long, it will cool your skin and increase the cold that we try to prevent. To do this, the substance must be hydrophobic.

To get the most out of your base layer, you need to choose one that fits snugly, even if you’re conscious of your body, otherwise it won’t be effective. An effective method is to wear your base layer under a light hiking shirt or with shorts if you’re feeling a little unsafe – just make sure it fits snugly.

Training apparel falls into the same category as base layers, but unlike base layers, it is meant to be seen. If you have a selection of form-fitting workout clothes, you can easily use them as a base layer. and vice versa.

Full sleeves or shorts?

Deciding what type of garments to use is very much a matter of preference: you can use long-sleeved or short-sleeved garments in any mix. I personally prefer to wear a short sleeve top and thigh length underwear in all conditions, a longer shirt over that when it’s chilly and long tights when it’s really cold. The idea is to protect the core more than anything else. So if you know your arms and legs tend to be on the warmer side, stick with short-sleeve base layers.

If you are very warm you can use the base layer alone, add a wind layer only when very exposed and an insulation only when stopping. I often do this on milder or very fast rides.

When to use a base layer

Chills and its dangers

Skin chills (not the same as “chills”) is when your skin becomes cold from perspiration in cold or windy conditions, leading to a rapid drop in internal temperature that can result in hypothermia if you’re not careful. Skin cold isn’t a problem in situations where you don’t sweat, only when we’re overdressed or very active in exposed conditions.

Base layer to prevent cold skin

As a second skin, your base layer is there to handle this very efficient sweating mechanism, designed to cool your body when it’s active and slow it down to allow the body to cool down in safer conditions. Wearing an overcoat during breaks when you’re active and an efficient base layer will help slow down the cooling process.

External conditions that require a base layer

As a general rule, when temperatures are low and you plan to be active, a base layer is good to have. Your goal is to prevent skin chills, so think about the conditions: will you reach a summit that will be windy and cold? Are you walking a frosty ridge?

Base layers are even more important during rest periods than during active periods, as cooling down and muscle cramps are a bigger issue during this period than keeping warm while moving. This means that even if you are usually warm, a base layer is particularly important so that you do not sweat too cold.

Bottom Line: When it’s cold and/or windy and you’re sweating, you should wear an underlayer to protect your core.

Fabrics truths and untruths

There are a few statements that are often made regarding base layers, mainly in relation to the fabric to be used. Some are true and some are not, either due to false user ideas or marketing spins in the outdoor industry. To clarify, here are some of the most important fabrics out there and a few sentences about each:

Cotton – I’ll add this as a warning: cotton is the worst type of base layer you can ever choose: it’s inherently hydrophilic and slow drying. Cotton should only be used at home/daily life or in hot weather environments.

– I’m including this as a warning: cotton is the worst type of base layer you can ever choose: it’s inherently hydrophilic and slow drying. Cotton should only be used at home/daily life or in hot weather environments. Merino wool – the best-selling base layer over the last decade, is hydrophilic and dries only slightly faster than cotton, but is naturally antibacterial (so it doesn’t stink after frequent use without washing) and has some insulating properties at all fabric weights. Here you can take a closer look.

– the best-selling base layer in the last decade, it’s hydrophilic and dries only slightly faster than cotton, but it’s inherently antibacterial (so it doesn’t stink after frequent use without washing) and has some insulating properties for all fabric weights. Here you can take a closer look. Polypropylene – a hydrophilic (oil-based) polymer that is very workable, but has one major drawback: it tends to retain body odor and stinks after just a few hours of use. This is a very useful fabric to wick sweat away from the body and therefore very useful in cold weather when we want to keep the skin dry.

– a hydrophilic polymer (oil-based) that is very workable but has one major disadvantage: it tends to retain body odor and stinks after only a few hours of use. This is a very useful fabric to wick sweat away from the body and therefore very useful in cold weather when we want to keep the skin dry. Polyester – a hydrophobic (oil-based) polymer that is highly conformable and tough, and therefore dries extremely quickly. Usually used for sportswear in combination with elastic threads to increase mobility.

– a hydrophobic polymer (oil-based) that is very conformable and robust, and therefore dries extremely quickly. Usually used for sportswear in combination with elastic threads to increase mobility. Bamboo – a relatively new fiber that should be a more sustainable alternative to merino wool, with the same qualities and properties. Bamboo is actually not as sustainable or as antibacterial as it is claimed to be.

– a relatively new fiber that should be a more sustainable alternative to merino wool, with the same characteristics and properties. Bamboo is actually not as sustainable or as antibacterial as it is claimed to be. Coconut – Another new joiner, made from coconut shells which are processed into carbon resulting in a hydrophobic, lightweight, anti-bacterial fabric. The main disadvantage of coir is its fragility.

Additional fabric compositions:

Hybrid fabrics – the best way to get the most out of a few fabrics like merino and coconut (Rab’s Meco) or polyester (outside) and polypro (inside) to create a fabric that can “pull” and “push”. or polyester and merino to get the drying and robustness of polyester and the softness and antimicrobial properties of merino.

– the best way to get the most out of a few fabrics like merino and coconut (Rab’s Meco) or polyester (outside) and polypro (inside) to create a fabric that is “pull” and “push” or polyester and Merino to get the drying and robustness of polyester and the softness and antimicrobial effect of merino. Silver Treatment (like Polygiene) – an anti-odor treatment that can be added at the factory level and helps prevent stink in base layers. Uses silver salt to prevent bacterial growth.

(like Polygiene) – an anti-odor treatment that can be added at the factory level and helps eliminate stink in base layers. Uses silver salt to prevent bacterial growth. Construction – Synthetic fibers such as polypro and polyester can be engineered to provide better evaporation or absorption in construction. Synthetic fibers can also be hollow fibers, making them slightly more insulating as they create a small air gap within the fabric itself. With synthetic fibers, you really do get what you pay for in terms of workmanship and construction.

– Synthetic fibers such as polypro and polyester can be engineered to provide better evaporation or absorption during construction. Synthetic fibers can also make them a bit more insulating as they create a small air gap in the fabric itself. With synthetic fibers, you really do get what you pay for in terms of workmanship and construction. Stretch – most basic fibers for base layers do not have stretch, so spandex, polyamide or lycra are often added to create a fabric stretchy enough to be skin-tight and comfortable.

My use and intake of base layers

I generally wear a base layer every time I go outside: hike, hike, run, bike, climb, you name it – I get very hot and sweaty quickly and when I stop I get cold very, very quickly. I’ve had so many colds from cooling off in the open air that I wear underwear all the time.

I always wear my thigh length Under Armor boxer jocks and a short sleeve top: merino wool for long trips or the short sleeve Arcteryx Phase SL shirt. When it’s cooler, I wear a long-sleeved shirt made of merino wool or the Arcteryx Phase AR Zip Neck Top on longer tours and maybe put a windbreaker over it.

On lighter tours I wear synthetic leggings (running tights) under shorts, but otherwise I very rarely need anything more than my underwear and socks on my legs. I have a pair of compression calf sleeves, which can also fall into the base layer category, and I sometimes use them under my trekking pants or with shorts.

As a rule of thumb for me: I use synthetic for cold or fast rides and merino for longer or slower rides; but I always, always wear a base layer on my torso.

Are base layers and thermals the same?

Thermal clothing is versatile clothing and comes in different fabrics and styles that will benefit various climates, conditions and activities. In most cases, they will be made from a synthetic material and can be called base layers, thermals or compressions.

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Whenever you plan your outdoor activities, you need to make sure you have the right clothing that suits both the activity and a possible change in weather. In the UK, the weather can change several times a day – and quickly.

As the weather gets warmer or cooler, so do you, and you need to add or remove layers. A base layer or thermal underwear should be your first layer, no matter what you’re doing or where you’re going.

Read on for Winfields Outdoors complete guide to base layers and thermals…

What fabric is the warmest base layer?

Wool also has a higher warmth-to-weight ratio than synthetic fabrics and tends to feel softer next to your skin. The main drawbacks: Many companies make wool base layers that you can’t tumble dry, the fabric tends to degrade faster than polyester, and wool is typically more expensive.

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Base layers are damn important. They’re your first line of defense on a cold day, fitting snugly against your skin to wick away sweat. But not all base layers are created equal.

For the past three years, I’ve been reviewing tops and bottoms for Outside’s Winter Buyer’s Guide, and while the options can seem endless, all of the products I review are made from one of three types of fabric: synthetic, wool, or a mix of the two. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Finding what best suits your lifestyle will simplify the buying process.

Below I list the three most popular types of base layers and explain which ones work best for which type of activity.

synthetic

Synthetic base layers are best for high-performance activities like ski touring and running, as they wick sweat more efficiently than wool. They’re also more durable and typically don’t pill under a harness or backpack. Their main downside: unlike wool, synthetics (unless treated with antimicrobial technology, often silver-based) smell after a wear or two.

On days above freezing, I use Patagonia’s Capilene 2 baselayer. Made from mid-weight Polartec High Efficiency fabric, they wick moisture faster than anything else I’ve tested and dry within minutes when I hang them up at the end of the day.

On freezing days, I choose Patagonia’s Capilene 4 because the heavier Polartec Power Dry High Efficiency fabric wicks moisture quickly, but also traps heat thanks to its waffle-shaped interior, making it easier to adapt to fluctuating temperatures.

Doug Kelliher, vice president of product management at Polartec, suggests layering based on expected sweat output. The more you sweat, the thinner your base layer should be. Another tip: if you get cold when you get out of the car, dress appropriately. “If you put on layers too early, you’re going to overheat,” says Kelliher. You’ll warm up as soon as you move.

Wool

Synthetics can’t match the odor-fighting properties of wool. Wool naturally fights bacteria, which means you can wear it 3 or 4 times before it starts to sink in. This is especially great for multi-day cabin trips, but less useful if you spend all your time at the resort. Wool also has a higher warmth-to-weight ratio than synthetic fabrics and tends to feel softer against the skin. The main disadvantages: Many companies make base layers out of wool that cannot be tumble dried, the fabric tends to degrade faster than polyester, and wool is typically more expensive.

I like the Ibex Woolies 220 Crew for its heavy weight (great for really cold days) and soft feel against the skin.

Keith Anderson, vice president of marketing at Ibex, recommends a silk wool garment (think 150 to 165 grams) as a base layer because it’s so versatile. Referring to the higher price point, Anderson argues that wool layers typically look less sporty than synthetic ones, as they easily transition from runway to après. “Wool underwear looks appropriate on the street without giving the appearance of wearing pajamas,” he says.

Wool-synthetic hybrid

Hybrid base layers combine some of the best properties of wool – odor resistance, warmth and comfort – with the moisture wicking and durability of synthetics. I’ve found that 100% synthetic base layers still wick moisture better than these blends, but if you’re doing anything other than extremely high-performance activities, a wool-synthetic hybrid is probably the way to go.

I’ve tested – and loved – super.natural base layers, which fuse wool and synthetic fibers into one fabric. The result: long underwear that wicks sweat well, but feels and behaves like wool.

Behemoth fabric manufacturer Polartec is also getting into the hybrid game with its new Power Wool. In contrast to super.natural, Polartec does not mix the two materials. Instead, the company uses a wool layer on the inside for softness and warmth, and a synthetic outer layer to wick moisture away from your skin.

What is a good base layer?

You’ll need a fabric that will keep you warm when wet and dry out quickly, and merino wool and polyester are the most common choices. Below are our picks for the best baselayers of 2022.

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As a next-to-skin garment, a base layer plays a fundamental role in wicking moisture away from the body and regulating core temperature. It’s a lot easier to justify buying a nice down jacket, but a base layer can be just as important for activities like skiing, hiking, and climbing. First, avoid cotton (like the old adage “cotton kills”). You need a fabric that will keep you warm when wet and that dries quickly, and merino wool and polyester are the most common materials. Below is our pick of the best baselayers of 2022. For more information, see our baselayer comparison chart and buying guide below the picks.

Our team’s baselayer recommendations

Best base layer overall

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 10 ounces.

What we like: Extremely soft, warm and resists water and stinks.

What we don’t like: Expensive and requires good care to last.

Smartwool has been the industry leader in base layers for years and merino wool is the most desirable material for the job. Made from 100% merino wool (many of the base layers below are blended or synthetic), the 250 Quarter-Zip is the total package: it’s warm, super soft against the skin, resists moisture, and doesn’t stink like the polyester options on the list. All in all, it’s a great base layer for skiing and other winter sports, and even has a UPF 50+ rating for use as an outer layer in milder weather. Based on the Smartwool 250’s popularity, it’s made in a number of versions, including a crew ($100) and hoodie ($135). But when we’re active, we appreciate the ability to lower the zip and regulate heat.

The Smartwool is the complete package, but merino wool doesn’t come cheap: you can save with one of the blends or polyester base layers below, including Patagonia’s popular Capilene. However, we prefer merino for its coziness, temperature regulation, ability to insulate when wet, and odor resistance. With polyester, you’ll likely need to wash and change your base layers fairly frequently, while wool will keep performance high over a multi-day backcountry or ski trip. The main downside to consider is Merino wool’s lack of durability – especially if you throw it in the dryer a lot – but it’s worth the trade-off for the high levels of comfort and performance. Among the growing selection of Merino wool, we believe Smartwool 250 offers the best balance of versatility, quality and value.

See Smartwool Merino 250 for men See Smartwool Merino 250 for women

Best synthetic base layer

Material: 100% recycled polyester

Category: Light/Middleweight

Weight: 6.2 ounces.

What we like: Cheaper and more durable than merino wool.

What we don’t like: Not quite as soft.

Choosing synthetics over merino wool has clear advantages, the most notable being cost and durability. For a little over half the price of the Smartwool above, Patagonia’s Capilene Midweight polyester offers similar warmth and moisture-wicking properties. And it will likely last for many seasons – we have Capilene tops that are several years old and count despite heavy use. And while plastics are not innocent when it comes to their environmental impact (they often rely on fossil fuels for manufacturing and can leach plastics into water with every wash), it helps that Patagonia makes the Capilene Midweight from 100 percent recycled materials.

What are you sacrificing when you choose a synthetic base layer? Polyester is decently comfortable, but not as soft on the skin, and it doesn’t regulate body temperature or repel odor as well as wool. That doesn’t mean your Capilene will stink very quickly — and Patagonia has made strides in this area with an odor-fighting HeiQ Fresh treatment — but you’ll find that you’ll need to give it a more frequent wash through the laundry. But wool can be finicky and not everyone wants to spend $100 or more on a base layer, which is why we love Patagonia’s Capilene line. For added warmth, try the Capilene Thermal Weight.

Check out the men’s Patagonia Capilene. Check out the Patagonia Capilene for women

Best budget baselayer

Material: 100% Polypropylene

Category: Light

Weight: 5.1 ounces.

What we like: Wicks moisture well and is great value for money.

What we don’t like: Not as warm as other base layers on this list.

There’s a lot to like about this lightweight active baselayer from Helly Hansen. At just $45, it’s one of the cheapest options on this list, but will still keep you dry and decently warm in most conditions. The headliner is the Lifa fabric, which is made of polypropylene and is specialized in wicking moisture away from the skin (it’s much better than polyester). Along with a nice athletic fit, the Lifa Stripe is great for active skiers and other high-performance activities like climbing and hiking.

The disadvantage of polypro compared to polyester or nylon is that it is not as warm. The Lifa Stripe Crew falls into our lightweight category, meaning it offers some insulation but requires a good mid-layer or insulated outer layer in cold conditions. It’s worth the trade-off for high-performance use, but if you prefer warmth over breathability, check out REI’s budget-oriented polyester range (including the $40 Lightweight Crew below). And it’s worth noting that Helly Hansen now offers the midweight Lifa Merino Crew ($100), which has a Merino wool outer and a Polypro lining.

Check out the Helly Hansen Lifa Stripe for men. Check out the Helly Hansen Lifa Stripe for women

Best heavy base layer for the cold

Materials: 100% Polyester

Category: Heavyweight

Weight: 10.2 ounces.

What we like: Warm for the weight, yet breathable and quick-drying.

What we don’t like: Too warm for most baselayer applications.

Patagonia’s R1 collection has long been a staple of their lineup, and the R1 Air recently joined the team with a highly technical design. The 100 percent recycled polyester fabric with hollow-core yarns and zig-zag pattern traps heat but allows air to pass from the inside out, resulting in a breathable yet warm layer that’s impressively lightweight. And when you work up a sweat, the polyester wicks away moisture effectively and dries out quickly. Patagonia completes the build with a functional 1/4-zip design to trap heat or shed excess heat, sleek off-the-shoulder seams, and a small zippered chest pocket. It all adds up to a cutting-edge, high-performance baselayer and one of the warmest offerings here.

Technically considered a fleece, the R1 Air forms the boundary between our baselayer and midlayer categories. As a base layer, it’s exceptionally heavy, which means you’ll want to save it for those extra cold winter days. On the downside, it offers less warmth than the 100 percent wool Woolx Glacier Long Sleeve Crew below, although the focus on breathability increases its appeal for high-performance activities (and it’s about $30 cheaper, to boot). Patagonia also offers its latest R1 Air in a crew and a full-zip hoody version, with the latter being best suited for mid-layer use.

Check out the men’s Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck. Check out the women’s Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck

Best lightweight base layer for mild weather

Materials: 87% Merino Wool, 13% Nylon

Category: Light

Weight: 6 ounces.

What we like: A great option for cool days and summer nights.

What we don’t like: Thin materials require more maintenance.

We’ve already listed the Smartwool Merino 250 as our top pick, but we’d be remiss not to add another standout baselayer to the 150 crew. Build quality is similar: Smartwool adds 13 percent nylon to the blend for durability, the weight drops significantly to 6 ounces (the absence of the zipper plays a part here, too), and you get the same minimalist stitching for comfort. Compared to the warm 250 above, the 150 is lighter and ideal for uses like spring skiing, off-season hiking and cool summer nights. You’ll feel like you’re wearing a lot less baselayer, but the increases in coziness and moisture-wicking properties are still there.

It’s worth noting that Smartwool also offers their technical Intraknit Merino 200, which breaks down the difference between the 150 here and the 250 above. This performance piece is almost half polyester/elastane (it’s 53 percent merino wool), features flat seams, and is body-mapped with mesh panels throughout for enhanced ventilation. We haven’t had a chance to fully test the Intraknit baselayer yet, but it’s an intriguing option for high-performance activities in cold weather when you want a layer that’s both warm and exceptionally breathable (see a similar alternative here under Zone of Icebreaker). team below). But for balmy summer temps, the Merino 150 is $35 less and probably has all the insulation you need.

See Smartwool Merino 150 Crew for men See Smartwool Merino 150 Crew for women

Most durable base layer

Materials: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 11 ounce.

What we like: Durable enough to be worn as an outer layer.

What we don’t like: Expensive for polyester.

NW Alpine is certainly not a household name, but this small company from Portland, Oregon designs and manufactures alpine climbing apparel on par with the best. Although they only make a handful of items, each of their products is a study in quality over quantity. And their Black Spider Hoody is one of our most popular base layers: it’s comfortable, warm and breathable, with unmatched durability. In fact, we’ve abused ours while climbing for six years – most of the time without a jacket over it – and it hasn’t gotten any holes or tears yet.

Nevertheless, the Black Spider Hoody won’t bring you too many style points: It lacks the odor resistance of merino wool and is only available in a few plain colors. Additionally, $129 is a steep price for a polyester baselayer, and it can often be difficult to find online or in stores in stock. However, the most impressive durability of any base layer we’ve ever worn – combined with features like a helmet-wearable hood and chest zip – set the Black Spider Hoody apart as a highly functional and durable performance piece.

Check out the men’s NW Alpine Black Spider. Check out the NW Alpine Black Spider for women

The best of the rest

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Middleweight

What we like: A soft, stretchy and well-made base layer.

What we don’t like: Expensive for a REI product.

Of all of REI Co-op’s in-house products, the merino base layer is one of our favorites. It’s right on the same playing field as heavyweights like Smartwool and Icebreaker, which is quite an achievement considering these companies specialize in wool layered pieces. Co-op recently updated their Merino Midweight Half-Zip design (200 g/m²) to Merino 185. It loses a bit of warmth due to the thinner construction, but like its predecessor, Merino 185 is soft and has good stretch, and wicks moisture effectively. And most importantly, it can handle everything from backpacking to cross-country skiing with ease.

Unlike many REI products, the Merino 185 Half-Zip doesn’t come at a huge discount, which is why we’re ranking it here. The 185 g/m² thickness is a noticeable drop in warmth over Icebreaker’s popular 200 Oasis Crew, but only $5 less, even though you get a front zip and a higher collar on the REI. And for just $15 more you get the legendary Smartwool 250 above, our top pick, which is a little thicker at 250gsm and a lot warmer. We really like the REI and have only had positive experiences with it so far, but we’re not ready to dethrone the Smartwool just yet.

Check out the REI Merino 185 Half-Zip for men. Check out the REI Merino 185 Half-Zip for women

Materials: 51% Merino Wool, 49% Polyester

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 6.9 ounces.

What we like: Amazing warmth in a tiny package; responsibly sourced wool.

What we don’t like: Expensive; lacks durability.

Patagonia’s Capilene collection runs the gamut from thermal base layers to lightweight tees and long sleeve hiking layers, and the midweight Capilene Air Hoody stands out as one of our favorites in the lineup. Known for being a leader in its commitment to sustainable environmental practices, Patagonia has equipped the Capilene Air with recycled polyester (49 percent), and the end result is a responsibly made and truly innovative piece. With a balaclava-style hood, no-sew construction, and a heat-retaining merino/polyester blend, the Capilene Air offers a tremendous amount of warmth in a relatively thin and light package.

Although the Capilene Air’s polyester makeup theoretically gives it a boost in durability, we developed multiple holes and runs on our hoody in a matter of weeks. Additionally, it’s noticeably wind permeable, and the fabric tends to pill and act as a catcher for hair, lint and more. For all of these reasons, the Capilene Air is best worn under a layer or two, as opposed to a highly durable base layer like the NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody above. But with great odor resistance, impressive wicking and drying properties, and one of the warmest, coziest hoods we know, it’s a fantastic piece against the skin.

Check out the Patagonia Capilene Air for men. Check out the Patagonia Capilene Air for women

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 11.8 ounces.

What we like: Softer against the skin than Smartwool.

What we don’t like: Slim fit and dense weave lags behind on breathability.

Icebreaker’s Oasis Crew is as versatile as any base layer on this list. Made from 100% merino wool, it’s super soft and has a performance fit that’s great for skiing and hiking in cool weather. And because of the clean style and abundance of colors and designs, you can easily wear it as a standalone piece.

If you’re considering the Oasis, it’s a head-to-head matchup with the Smartwool Merino 250 above. Both styles are 100 percent merino wool and the prices are similar (the zip-neck version of the Oasis is $105). Both are comfortable, wick moisture well, and don’t trap odors like synthetics. However, we give the Smartwool a slight edge as the dense weave of the Icebreaker fabric doesn’t expel hot air as efficiently. Despite a lighter fabric weight (200 vs. 250 g/m²), it can feel sweltering when you sweat. On the other hand, the Icebreaker impresses with its softness against the skin, making it a better option for those who prioritize comfort above all else.

Check out the men’s Icebreaker 200 Oasis. Check out the Icebreaker 200 Oasis for women

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Heavyweight

Weight: 1 pound 1.6 ounces.

What we like: Very warm and soft; a great value for an all-merino baselayer.

What we don’t like: It’s not ideal for high-powered activities due to the thickness and cut.

Woolx is a small New York-based company that doesn’t get the hype of Smartwool or Icebreaker, but their chunky Glacier is a cozy and well-built heavyweight baselayer. This 100 percent merino wool piece is much warmer and more durable than the mid-weight and light-weight options on the list. And because it’s merino wool, it’s still soft on the skin and breathes well. We’ve used the Glacier for everything from skiing and snowshoeing to casual use and are very impressed.

Compared to our top heavyweight pick, the Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck, the Woolx Glacier Long Sleeve Crew is significantly thicker and warmer. Unfortunately, Patagonia doesn’t provide a gsm spec for the R1, but the Glacier’s 400 gsm is clearly best suited for the coldest winter days, which can be good or bad depending on intended use. It also costs $30 more than the Patagonia, doesn’t come in a women’s version, and has a decidedly relaxed fit that allows more room for air movement. For hard working in cold temperatures we give the edge to the R1 Air, but the Woolx has its place as a premium wool alternative for less intense activities.

Check out the Woolx Glacier for men

Materials: 52% Merino, 41% Polyester/Nylon, 6% Elastane

Category: Light

Weight: 6.6 ounces.

What we like: The slim fit and excellent ventilation are ideal for active activities.

What we don’t like: Not our first choice for skiing at the ski resort.

Odlo hails from Norway with a range of well thought out base layers designed for a range of activities and conditions. Our favorite for ski touring last winter, our Natural + Kinship Warm blends merino wool with stretchy polyester and nylon for a long sleeve that excels in mild temperatures while building warmth. You get excellent breathability thanks to the shirt’s dedicated ventilation zones, and we’ve found moisture wicking to be top-notch. Additionally, the performance-focused fit is snug yet stretchy, and Odlo has even eliminated seams along the shoulders for comfort when wearing a backpack. To top it off the build quality is excellent with both our tops and bottoms holding up great after a few months of heavy use.

While we love the Natural + Kinship Warm for high-performance activities like backcountry skiing and cross-country skiing, it’s less appealing as a resort baselayer. You can get much warmer with a mid-weight option like the Smartwool Merino 250 above, and many will appreciate a more relaxed fit for lunch or après at the lodge. On the other hand, we’re big fans of the stylish pattern along the torso and sleeves (and it also comes in a half-zip version). Overall, we really like what Odlo has done with Natural + Kinship Warm, making it one of our favorite merino blends here. For warm-weather adventures, Odlo also makes the Kinship Light Crew, which uses soft Tencel fibers (sustainably sourced from wood) instead of wool.

See Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm for men See Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm for women

Materials: 84% Polyester, 16% Elastane

Category: Light/Middleweight

Weight: 7.6 ounces.

What we like: Soft and cozy for a polyester base layer and with a zip pocket.

What we don’t like: Expensive and not versatile as an outer layer.

Arc’teryx places a high value on high performance, which shows in their baselayer collection. Designed to keep you warm for a variety of winter and off-season activities, their Rho series includes the Expeditionweight AR (“All-Round”) model and the LT (“Lightweight”) model. Combining polyester with a generous dose of elastane, the Zip-Neck LT falls into our light and midweight categories, making it an ideal layering piece under a midlayer or shell for low-power activities. We generally prefer merino base layers for their better next-to-skin feel, but the Rho LT features a soft brushed interior, and it doesn’t hurt that its synthetic construction is much more durable than wool.

Arc’teryx paid attention to a few small details with the Rho LT. Underarm gussets and a slightly longer hem increase freedom of movement, and a laminated zip pocket on the chest for men (arm for women) is great for storing small items like lip balm or a credit card. $125 is a steep price for a non-merino base layer (most synthetic options here cost about half that), and the Rho LT’s narrow, technical fit means it doesn’t perform well as a standalone piece. However, you can hardly go wrong with Arc’teryx quality – the Rho is built to last. And if you tend to get cold, or are looking for a winter-ready base layer, the fleece-lined Rho AR packs a heavy dose of insulation and cozy loft at an impressively light weight—nearly half a pound lighter than the all-merino Woolx Top.

Check out the Arc’teryx Rho LT for men. Check out the Arc’teryx Rho LT for women

Materials: 78% Merino Wool, 22% Polyester

Category: Light

Weight: 6.7 ounces.

What we like: The benefits of merino wool plus moisture wicking and durability.

What we don’t like: Expensive for a lightweight base layer.

Black Diamond’s Solution Wool range caused quite a stir when it debuted, particularly for its innovative NuYarn technology. Many manufacturers weave fibers together with merino wool to harness the benefits of both, but NuYarn takes it to the next level by overwrapping nylon with extra-fine merino fibers for a yarn that exudes technical performance to its core. The end result is impressive: compared to a base layer like the Smartwool Merino 150 above, the Solution 150 is noticeably more durable and dries out very quickly when wet (great news for those who tend to sweat).

After wearing the Solution 150 for six days while hiking in Patagonia, we were impressed with how well it held its shape and was odor resistant. Under a loaded pack, the offset shoulder seam was comfortable and mitigated pressure points, and the thumb loops are smooth and well constructed. In fact, our biggest criticism of the Solution 150 is its price – at $135, it’s $50 more than Smartwool’s comparable base layer top (the Merino 150 Crew). But cost aside, the Solution 150 offers solid all-around performance and lasts longer than most merino base layers.

See BD Solution 150 Merino for men See BD Solution 150 Merino for women

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Light/Middleweight

Weight: 6.9 ounces.

What we like: Great styling and super soft handfeel.

What we don’t like: Expensive and not durable.

Let’s start with the basics: The Ortovox 185 Merino Longsleeve Crew is a standard merino base layer. Similar to top-of-the-line Smartwool, it’s 100% wool, meaning you get uncompromising odor resistance, excellent temperature regulation and a cosy, soft feel. At 185 g/m² it is lighter than the Smartwool 250, which means it is better suited for transitional periods or high-performance activities. However, the thin fabric coupled with the fact that it’s not blended with a synthetic material has us concerned about the Ortovox’s durability (even Smartwool’s 150 shirt is a merino/nylon blend).

But this is where Rock’N’Wool stands out: First, the Ortovox Wool Promise ensures their product comes from ethical and certified sheep farms. And secondly, we just can’t get enough of the Rock’N’Wool’s styling – if you’re looking for a merino baselayer with some flair, the multicolored designs really stand out in the conservative and largely dull baselayer market. The Ortovox 185 is a flashy yet very capable choice for a versatile, breathable next-to-skin layer that takes you straight from skin-track to après.

Check out the Ortovox Rock’N’Wool LS for men. Check out the Ortovox Rock’N’Wool LS for women

Materials: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane

Category: Light

Weight: 6.5 ounces.

What we like: Simple but functional.

What we don’t like: Not super comfortable or powerful.

When it comes to value for money, REI base layers are hard to beat. For $40, the Lightweight Crew offers most of the performance of the pricier options above in a simple but functional design. Additionally, REI took things even further with 8 percent spandex in the construction, giving it a nice, stretchy feel. Along with the matching bottoms, you can buy a full length underwear set for $80 ($25 cheaper than just a Smartwool merino top).

What are the disadvantages of the REI? We’ve found the lightweight model to be good for mild days of skiing, hiking and casual use, but you may not be warm enough in cold temperatures. Note that REI offers a warmer version (the Midweight Crew) for $50. And while the Co-op’s fabric is pleasantly silky, it doesn’t quite match Patagonia’s merino wool or even Capilene for softness and comfort (and it’s even more prone to resist body odor). Those issues aside, the REI Lightweight (or Midweight) Crew is a great way to gear up on a budget this winter.

Check out the men’s REI Lightweight Crew Check out the women’s REI Lightweight Crew

Materials: 97% Merino Wool, 3% Elastane

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 13.7 ounces.

What we like: A warm yet breathable base layer with mesh panels for extra ventilation.

What we don’t like: Not everyone is going to love the slim fit.

For hard work in cold weather, the Icebreaker 260 Zone Crew offers one of the best combinations of warmth and breathability. Utilizing Icebreaker’s BodyFitZone construction, it combines 260-weight merino wool (spun with elastane for durability and stretch) with strategically placed panels of airy merino mesh in moisture-prone areas like the armpits and back. The end result is a temperature-regulating base layer that can shed a lot of heat but still keep you warm where and when you need it.

As we’ve come to expect from Icebreaker, everything about the 260 Zone exudes quality, from the flatlock stitching to eliminate chafing to the well-executed thumb loops. Like the Odlo above, the stretchy 260 has a decidedly snug fit that won’t be for everyone, but adds a nice performance slant. And more importantly, you still get great freedom of movement with gusseted underarms and raglan sleeves, along with a drop tail hem for added coverage around the back. The Smartwool 250 above offers about the same warmth and costs $35 less, but the Icebreaker’s more athletic fit and body-hugging mesh panels give it the edge for truly high-performance use. Both are excellent mid-weight options, and a final decision will depend on your goals and expected uses (casual vs. activewear).

Check out the men’s Icebreaker 260 Zone Crew Check out the women’s Icebreaker 260 Zone Crew

Material: 100% silk fabric

Category: Light

What we like: Cozy and great for layering.

What we don’t like: Lacks the performance of merino or polyester.

Silk can’t compete with merino or polyester for warmth, moisture wicking and durability, but it has its place in the base layer world. Those who value comfort above all else might choose silk for sleeping, camp and other low-powered activities. Additionally, silk is so thin that it can easily be worn under tight-fitting layers without adding bulk. And for just $50, L.L. Bean well made and more durable than most silk options.

We don’t recommend wearing the Silk Underwear Crewneck for high-performance activities – it just doesn’t breathe as well as merino or polyester. In addition, if you want it to last, the shirt should always be covered with an intermediate or outer layer. Ultimately, silk lags behind the aforementioned wool and polyester options in almost every performance category. Aber wenn Sie Komfort über alles stellen und das Gefühl von Seide mögen, ist der L.L. Bean Crewneck einen Blick wert. Für den gleichen Preis ist das Silk Long Underwear Crew Shirt von REI weitgehend ähnlich, aber mit einer lockereren Passform.

L.L. Bean Silk Rundhalsausschnitt für Herren ansehen L.L. Bean Silk Rundhalsausschnitt für Damen ansehen

Baselayer-Vergleichstabelle

Kaufberatung für Baselayer

Baselayer-Materialien

Merino wool

Merinowolle ist trotz höherer Kosten als Synthetik aus mehreren Gründen unser empfohlenes Baselayer-Material. Es ist ultraweich und bequem, hat eine hervorragende Temperaturregulierung und ist geruchsneutral. Zugegeben, Baselayer aus Merinowolle sind teuer und weniger haltbar als die Polyester-Konkurrenz und kosten ungefähr das Doppelte. Passen Sie jedoch gut auf sie auf, und Sie sollten in der Lage sein, sie mindestens einige Saisons lang zu verwenden. Unser Top-Baselayer, das Smartwool Merino 250 ¼ Zip, besteht zu 100 % aus Merinowolle. Weitere Informationen zu den Vor- und Nachteilen des Materials finden Sie in unserem Artikel: Merinowolle: Lohnt es sich?

Die Smartwool Merino 250 besteht zu 100 Prozent aus Merinowolle

polyester

Als kostengünstige Baselayer-Alternative kannst du immer auf Polyester zurückgreifen. Angeführt von Patagonias legendärer Capilene-Linie können Polyesterstoffe in Bezug auf Feuchtigkeitstransport mithalten und der Komfortunterschied ist nicht weit entfernt. Die Kehrseite ist die Geruchsvermeidung, die für viele Hersteller ein Schwerpunkt ist. Bisher können geruchsabweisende Polyester noch nicht mit den natürlichen Vorteilen von Merinowolle mithalten, aber sie verbessern sich. Darüber hinaus regulieren Polyesterstoffe die Temperaturen nicht so gut, daher ist es wichtiger, das Stoffgewicht an den Verwendungszweck und die Bedingungen anzupassen (mehr dazu weiter unten). Trotz der Nachteile sind Polyesterstoffe das, was wir Skifahrern am häufigsten empfehlen. Bei etwa der Hälfte des Preises einer vergleichbaren Merinowolle ist die Kosteneinsparung zu groß, um sie zu übersehen.

Mischungen

Es ist nicht ganz so einfach, sich zwischen einem reinen Merino- oder einem reinen Polyester-Baselayer zu entscheiden. Einige leistungsorientierte Marken experimentieren mit Mischungen, die darauf abzielen, den Komfort und die Leistung von Merinowolle mit der Haltbarkeit und dem Feuchtigkeitstransport von Polyester zu kombinieren. Das Patagonia Capilene Air zum Beispiel webt 51 Prozent Merinowolle mit 49 Prozent Polyester zusammen, während das NuYarn von Black Diamond (wie im Solution 150 Merino zu sehen) tatsächlich Merinofasern um einen Nylonkern wickelt und diesen hergestellten Faden dann mit Polyester verwebt . Die Gemeinsamkeit dieser Typen besteht darin, dass sie zu den teuersten Artikeln auf diesem Markt gehören, sodass es bei diesen Mischungen mehr um Leistung als um Kosteneinsparungen geht.

Tragen von Capilene Air von Patagonia beim Eisklettern in der Nähe von Canmore, Alberta

silk

Seide ist einer der weichsten und bequemsten Baselayer-Stoffe und packt eine beeindruckende Menge an Wärme in ein leichtes, dünnes Design. Doch mit der steigenden Nachfrage nach temperaturregulierenden Baselayern kommt Seide weitgehend aus der Mode. Sie kann in Sachen Feuchtigkeitstransport einfach nicht mit Merino oder Polyester mithalten und verwandelt sich bei schweißtreibenden Aktivitäten in eine Schwitzhütte. Darüber hinaus ist Seide viel weniger strapazierfähig als Polyester und sollte immer unter einer mittleren oder äußeren Schicht getragen werden, um sie vor UV-Strahlen und Abrieb zu schützen. Und schließlich ist es geruchsneutral wie Merinowolle und sollte mit der Hand gewaschen werden. Wir haben aus gutem Grund nur eine Seidenoption auf unserer Liste, aber sie hat ihre Vorteile als dediziertes Schlafhemd oder zusätzliche Schicht in der Stadt.

Wichtige Stärken und Schwächen

Atmungsaktivität

Die Atmungsaktivität eines Baselayers hängt von einer Reihe von Faktoren ab, darunter Art und Qualität des Gewebes, Dicke und Offenheit des Gewebes. Im Allgemeinen bietet leichte Merinowolle die beste Atmungsaktivität, obwohl einige hochwertige leichte Synthetikprodukte dicht dran sind. Das bedeutet, dass es sich bei Aktivitäten mit hoher Anstrengung, bei denen Sie ins Schwitzen kommen (denken Sie an Skitouren, Langlaufen, Radfahren und Klettern), wahrscheinlich lohnt, mehr auszugeben, um einen leistungsfähigeren Baselayer wie den Smartwool Intraknit 200 oder Icebreaker zu kaufen 150-Zone. Wenn Sie weniger ausgeben, insbesondere für eine dicke Basisschicht, wird dies zu einer geringeren Atmungsaktivität führen. Ob dies ein Deal-Breaker ist oder nicht, hängt von Ihren persönlichen Vorlieben und Ihrer Tendenz zur Überhitzung ab.

Merino: Ausgezeichnet

Mischungen: Ausgezeichnet

Polyester: Sehr gut

Seide: Nicht gut

Atmungsaktivität ist wichtig für Aktivitäten mit hoher Leistung

Geruchsprävention

Merinowolle ist hervorragend darin, Feuchtigkeit von der Haut wegzuziehen, und weniger Schweißbildung bedeutet weniger Gestankbildung. Wenn Sie einen ausgedehnten Backcountry-Trip unternehmen und nicht mehrere Baselayer tragen oder jede Nacht ausspülen möchten, ist Merinowolle die richtige Wahl. Einige synthetische Stoffe eignen sich gut zur Geruchsvermeidung, vorausgesetzt, Sie kommen nicht ins Schwitzen. Wir sind zum Beispiel längere Zeit in Patagoniens Capilene Midweight bei kühlem Wetter gewandert und waren von seiner Geruchsresistenz beeindruckt. But nothing beats merino in keeping you dry and stink free.

Merino: Very good

Blends: Good

Polyester: Not good

Silk: Not good

Getting ready to hike in the Black Diamond Solution 150 merino baselayer

durability

Here is where the tide changes: Merino is super soft but prone to developing small holes over time that eventually hamper the performance of the product, whereas synthetics should last for multiple seasons. To put this in perspective, we usually get a season or two out of a standard lightweight merino baselayer, even from the top brands and by following their washing instructions (cold water and line dry). Admittedly, these shirts get a lot of use, but that’s still a very short lifespan. But with synthetics, one or two seasons would be on the short end of the spectrum and we would hope for more like three or four.

Some companies are blending wool and synthetics to increase the strength of the baselayer without compromising next-to-skin comfort, which is a good idea in our opinion. We haven’t noticed much of a drop in terms of comfort or performance, but merino/synthetic blends are a step up in durability. Even so, if we’re wearing a baselayer without anything overtop, we’ll always opt for a fully synthetic piece such as the NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody.

Polyester: Excellent

Blends: Very good

Merino: Not good

Silk: Not good

Climbing in the ultra-durable NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody

Warmth

Out of all the fabrics we’ve mentioned, merino has the best heat-trapping properties. In general, you get a better warmth-to-weight ratio with merino than with polyester, and it regulates temperature better too. The same shirt that keeps you warm in the winter will keep you cool when you’re sweating up the skin track in the shoulder seasons. Silk, too, is noticeably warm for its thin makeup, but its lack of breathability is a strong drawback. It’s also important to consider if you’ll be wearing your baselayer as an outer layer—while merino doesn’t do much to block wind, some polyester fabrics (such as Patagonia’s Capilene) are so tightly woven that they have the ability to resist light gusts. And keep in mind that warmth is directly related to the thickness of the material too, which we discuss in the Insulation Weight section below.

Merino: Excellent

Blends: Very good

Polyester: Good

Silk: Good

Merino wool offers excellent warmth

Baselayer Categories: Insulation Weight

Easy

Logically, lightweight baselayers are the best breathers but do the least in keeping you warm. This is where merino wool shines—it does an admirable job of temperature regulation for the weight and thickness. However, the thinner the merino, the less durable it becomes. For this reason, most lightweight baselayers are made of polyester. These are ideal for early season skiing, bluebird days, and high-output activities such as cross-country skiing and cold-weather running. Resort skiers and winter climbers will likely opt for a warmer and cozier midweight baselayer.

Midweight

For the widest variety of conditions, a midweight baselayer makes the most sense. It will provide the warmth you need yet still be breathable enough for physical exertion, especially when made with high-quality merino or polyester. Midweight baselayers are the most popular choice for downhill skiers: They’re plenty warm for the lift ride up but you are unlikely to overheat on the descent. They are less popular than lightweight baselayers for hiking or ski touring in moderate conditions as the extra warmth corresponds with a drop in the fabric’s ability to regulate temperatures (even merino can get too hot in warm temperatures). But in cool spring and fall conditions, a midweight baselayer can perform great as an outer layer and is the ideal next-to-skin layer for resort skiing on cold days.

A midweight baselayer is a safe bet for most shoulder season activities

heavyweight

Heavyweight baselayers are specialty items for cold temperatures or if you’ll be relatively sedentary. The extra thickness inhibits breathability and it’s easy to start sweating even on short walks. Keep in mind that you don’t need all of your insulation from a single article of clothing, and as a result, you can always add warmer layers on top of a light or midweight baselayer. But for winter mountaineering, extreme cold, or low-output activities around camp, a heavyweight baselayer can be the height of coziness. If you do go this route, we love the Woolx Glacier Long Sleeve Crew, which is a 400g/m² all-merino baselayer that still breathes decently well. Patagonia’s Thermal Weight Capilene can get swampy unless it’s very cold.

Crew Neck vs. Quarter or Half Zips

Nearly every baselayer on the market is made in a number of styles, including long-sleeve crew and half/quarter-length zippered shirts. Many folks opt for a crewneck style, but there are a number of reasons to think about a zippered shirt. One upside is the ability to adapt to changing weather conditions. Zip up for added warmth at the start of the climb, and unzip as you work up a sweat. And if you want to remove the shirt altogether, it’s nice not having to take off your helmet to do so. Furthermore, the extra coverage you get with the raised collar is a nice boost in warmth, and we’ve even found that quarter or half-zip long sleeves have a decent look for around town. The downside is the collars can flop around if you unzip the shirts while running, and having a zipper on your next-to-skin layer isn’t as comfortable as the cleaner crew style.

Zippered baselayers like the Smartwool Merino 250 allow you to regulate temperature better than crew styles

Fit

For optimal performance, baselayers need to have a snug fit. This helps the fabrics draw moisture away from your skin most efficiently. Some folks like wearing their baselayers for casual use, and that’s when a dedicated performance product like Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm is less useful. The shirt conforms to your body like a performance piece should, but it’s far too tight to wear anywhere else. A product like the REI Co-op Merino 185 Half-Zip is on the opposite end of the spectrum, with a roomier fit that sacrifices a little in moisture wicking and breathability. But it’s a great choice for those that prefer a dual use baselayer/casual shirt. In the end, your decision is a personal one, and we recommend looking at fit based on intended use and preferences on style.

Key Baselayer Features

Baselayers can range from simple, featureless crew tops like the Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew to hooded half-zips with a chest pocket (the NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody, for example). If you know you’ll be layering a mid or outer layer over your baselayer, the simpler the better. However, those who wear their baselayer as an outer layer will appreciate zip pockets and thumb loops. And climbers and skiers will benefit from a tight hood or balaclava that fits under their helmet. Furthermore, some baselayers even have the capability of blocking sun rays (measured by the UPF rating). As usual, it will help to identify what you’ll be using your baselayer for before determining what features you need.

Thumb straps are handy for keeping sleeves in place

sustainability

The focus on sustainability has been increasing in the outdoor industry over the past several years, and baselayers are no exception. In this category, there currently are two key trends: responsibly sourced wool and the use of recycled synthetic materials. The former indicates that sheep were treated humanely and in accordance with strict animal welfare and environmental standards (there are a number of certifications, including the Responsible Wool Standard and ZQ-certified wool). We’ve also begun to see more companies utilizing recycled materials, which cuts down on fossil fuel consumption and reduces the amount of plastics being produced overall (Patagonia’s Capilene Midweight is made from 100-percent recycled polyester). All in all, we appreciate these efforts and are eager to see more brands come on board.

What About Baselayer Bottoms?

Most baselayers on this list have a matching bottom with the same construction and a similar or identical price. For organization sake, we list the tops here as they are more popular, but the bottoms are readily available and share the same pros and cons. In general though, maintaining a warm core will do much more for your entire body’s comfort than keeping your legs warm. But given that there’s no need to choose—and provided that almost nothing is cozier than a pair of long johns—we’re huge proponents of baselayer bottoms as well.

Baselayer bottoms are especially important for winter activities

Layering Systems: Base, Mid, and Outer Layers

To get the most out of your technical clothing, it’s important think of everything as a system. Each piece relies on the layers around it to perform well. As an example, if you have a baselayer that wicks moisture well, but are wearing a fully rubber mid or outer layer, it won’t matter how nice of a merino fabric you have: You’ll still be wet and miserable. As such, take the time to put together mid and outer layers that are as high-performing as the baselayers listed above.

Baselayers

Baselayers have two primary functions: warmth and moisture wicking. Whether constructed with silk, wool, polyester, or a blend, a baselayer is made to retain your body’s heat while transporting moisture away from the skin. And these two features work together—keeping the body dry will in turn lead to more warmth. Baselayers are worn beneath a midlayer or shell during the winter months, or as an outer layer during the fall and spring for activities like hiking, biking, and climbing. The thickness and material of your baselayer will have big impacts on warmth and breathability, so make sure to keep this mind when making a purchase.

A warm combination: Patagonia Capilene Air and Arc’teryx Nuclei FL

Midlayers

For high-output activities, such as hiking, backpacking and climbing, breathability is top priority. We recommend a fleece jacket or synthetic jacket for balancing warmth and ventilation. High performers include the Arc’teryx Atom LT and the R line of fleeces from Patagonia. If you only plan to grab your insulating layer during downtimes, such as hanging around camp after the sun goes down, consider a warm and super packable down jacket. Skiing is a similar story, and conditions will dictate the best midlayer for you. Options can range from a puffy down jacket to a light fleece.

Outer Layers

Outer layers are the most specialized part of the system, and their complex designs can get quite pricey. A waterproof, breathable, and packable rain jacket is needed for activities like climbing and hiking/backpacking. Winter conditions are much harsher, so durability takes precedence for ski jackets. Their designs offer more pockets for storing gear or personal effects and a longer fit to protect you from snow sneaking through. There are also hardshell jackets that blur the lines, mixing the weight of a rain jacket with the performance (and extra cost) of a ski jacket.

Back to Our Top Baselayer Picks Back to Our Baselayer Comparison Table

What temperature is base layer?

Base layers are ideally worn when the temperature goes below 15 degrees celsius as this is when our body temperature cools down and we need extra protection from warmth.

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If you’re wondering what a base layer is, what types there are and how they help you when walking and hiking in cold temperatures, then read on!

Your first snow is always something special. It has something to do with observing the sunlight reflecting off the snowflakes and the purity of the white that surrounds you everywhere.

Especially if you come from a place that experiences a tropical climate, it’s even more special. But there is a downside. As it is the first time you are not sure how to dress for the occasion. You just know you need to be warm. So what are you doing?

Kosha: We are the best winter clothing manufacturers in India, with a heritage of over 25 years. Each garment is carefully designed, tested and heat checked. We help buyers decide the layers they need based on the location’s temperature and weather. Contact us for a free consultation via our hotline / WhatsApp +919820999006 and our winter clothing expert will be happy to help you. Best Sellers: Base Layers | Travel Sweatshirt | caps | Touchable Gloves | wool socks

The obvious, right? you google You google how to dress for winter or snow. You get so many options. But there’s that one garment that stands out everywhere – the base layer. The word sounds interesting, but what exactly is a base layer? It shows thermals in some base layers in others, long johns in some other places, and it goes on.

That’s what happens when you’re new to the winter shift system and decide to explore it. There are too many names and contexts for the base layer. So, to make it easy and simple for you, in this article we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about base layers.

What is base layer clothing?

Base layer clothing, as the word suggests, is a piece of clothing that you wear at the beginning of your winter layering. This cloth is worn under your normal clothes and over your underwear.

They are worn to keep your body warm and dry. If the temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius, you must wear underwear to protect your body from the cold.

Imagine you are in a sub-zero temperature with your normal clothes and jackets to protect you from the outside environment. If you do without the base layer, nothing stands between your body and your normal clothing.

Sometimes all those layers you use to keep warm eventually make your body sweat. This will get your normal clothes wet. Now when I say your clothes are wet, remember that you would also wear other layers over your wet clothes to keep you warm. So instead of feeling warm, you end up feeling colder and the wet cloth clinging to your body makes you shiver.

Wearing it for a long time can even lead to hypothermia. To avoid all of this, it’s always a good idea to wear a base layer before you start adding your mid layers (hoodie/sweater/sweatshirts) or outer layers (jackets/coats).

As you may already understand from the context above, a good base layer is one that can keep you warm and dry throughout. Most importantly, it should dry quickly since your base layer doesn’t need to be wet. It’s not just the cold that comes from a wet base layer.

It will also cause you to get skin irritation as sweat and dirt cling to the wet fabric. Bad odor can be another effect of a wet base layer. Therefore, it is very important to be selective when choosing your base layer as it is literally the base of your layering. Only when the base is strong will the other layers protect you.

Base layer vs. thermal clothing. is there a difference

Even though the terms base layer and thermals are very often used interchangeably, there is a small difference between base layer garments and thermal layers. While both base layers and thermals protect the body from the cold and keep it dry, one specializes more in the latter than the other.

The main job of the base layer is to keep your body dry, while the main job of thermal clothing is to keep your body warm. They are worn under your regular clothing to keep you comfortable.

Although there is this difference, thanks to technological advances in the textile industry, most thermal fabrics now have the ability to dry quickly and most base layers have built in thermal properties. This can be the reason why when you search for a baselayer, you often get results related to thermal clothing and vice versa. So now you know!

What are base layers made of?

You cannot complete the answer to what a base layer is without answering what base layers are made of. Although there are many fabrics in the base layer market, the main players for base layers are synthetics and merino wool.

Synthetic base layers

Synthetic or man-made base layers are those made from synthetic fibers. Nylon and polyester are two favorites when it comes to synthetic base layers. They are readily available, have good wicking properties, and last much longer than any natural fibers. Due to their easy availability, they are also cheaper than functional underwear made from merino wool.

Because these base layers were designed by human hands, we added features like breathability and quick drying. The thickness of these base layers is entirely dependent on the materials used and cannot be commented on in general terms.

A disadvantage of synthetic base layers is that they are not biodegradable. To ensure durability, they are often made from materials that take years to decompose and can harm the planet.

Another disadvantage of the synthetic base layer is that despite its fast moisture wicking ability, it cannot be worn for a long time because it produces a foul odor. Synthetic base layers can help you in moderately warm climates, but when it comes to cold or snowy weather it is always advisable to opt for merino wool base layers.

Merino wool base layer

Merino wool base layers are natural, biodegradable base layers made from merino wool. Merino wool is a fabric obtained from Merino sheep in the Australian region. Merino wool fibers are extremely light with a fiber dimension of less than 24 microns.

They are super fine and have large pockets to trap air. They automatically ensure warmth and comfort. The natural temperature-regulating properties of Merino wool fibers is another reason why they are so popular as base layers.

Merino wool is also naturally antibacterial, unlike synthetic material.

Antibacterial properties ensure the fabric stays fresh and odor-free even after long periods of use, making merino wool underwear perfect for camping and trekking activities.

They are breathable and would keep you warm and dry.

One downside to merino wool thermals is that due to the exclusivity of merino wool fibers, they are not readily available and therefore more expensive than your regular synthetic base layers.

What are Kosha Base Layers made of?

“Due to the different altitude and weather conditions during hikes or jumps, it is very important to have the right type of layers, especially the base layer. Some properties that are crucial for a good base layer are sweat-wicking properties, breathability and of course the ability to keep the body warm, which is the main purpose.

Because you spend days or weeks at a time in the mountains, it is sometimes difficult to wash the base layer on such expeditions, so it has to stay dry and fresh. Those are reasons I really love the Kosha Merino Wool Bamboo Thermals, which I’ve tried and tested in my various exploits.” – Says Sajid Chougle, mountain lover, adventure seeker and regular hiker of Kosha’s base layers.

When Kosha decided to introduce the base layer collection, there was a clear goal to introduce the combination of base layers and thermal clothing. The motto behind Kosha’s base layer is to keep you warm, dry and comfortable.

Kosha also has a strong ethos around sustainability, which has clearly steered them away from the synthetic fabrics path. While merino wool thermals are great, the Kosha team wanted to further improve the properties of the base layer and came up with a unique combination.

Kosha base layers are made by blending 47.5% bamboo with 47.5% merino wool. This fabulous combination helped the base layers have all the good qualities of merino wool and the qualities of bamboo, including a soothing texture and better durability.

Kosha’s base layers are also designed with travel comfort in mind. Aside from being temperature-regulating, Kosha underwear can also be used as a t-shirt.

Knowing how difficult it is to travel in bulky layers, the Kosha base layers are extremely lightweight and when you are indoors or warm you can remove your outer layers and use the same thermal clothing as t-shirts. The fact that they come in different colors supports this fact.

What types of base layers are there?

Because base layers are used to keep your body warm and to keep body temperature under control, it’s important to wear base layers that cover your chest and buttocks. There are base layer sets that you can wear under your clothes.

In principle, a base layer can be an upper part of a base layer or a lower part of a base layer. You can also always use accessories to cover your extremities.

baselayer tops

As the name suggests, undershirts are used to cover the upper half of your body. It can be either full sleeve, half sleeve or sleeveless depending on your body’s temperature capability. Always invest in a Merino wool base layer as it will keep you warm and sweat-free throughout your journey.

You can check out Kosha’s men’s baselayer tops here.

You can check out Kosha’s women’s baselayer tops here.

Baselayer bottoms

Base layer bottoms or thermal leggings are the base layer worn under your pants to protect the lower half of your body. They are usually full sized and end above your ankle.

Check out Kosha’s men’s briefs here.

You can check out Kosha’s women’s baselayer tops here.

Accesories

Another layer that will help protect your body are accessories. Even though investing in good accessories is often neglected, it is extremely important to have quality accessories.

Accessories include gloves, socks, scarves, scarves or hats – basically anything that can be used to protect your extremities from the harsh weather.

If you can get gloves, try to opt for waterproof ones if you are going to experience snow. Or touchscreen gloves for regular use.

For scarves and shawls, opt for wool or wool blends as this will keep your neck warm.

You can go one step further and invest in a good balaclava if the climate is really cold. This will ensure your ears, neck and head are covered. Also, get hats as they will protect your head and keep it warm.

For socks, make sure they are breathable and provide cushioned support when planning adventure activities.

Check out Kosha’s men’s accessories here.

You can view Kosha’s accessories for women here.

Are base layers waterproof?

No, base layers are not waterproof. They cannot be worn as outerwear in snow or rain as they will get wet. What base layers are is hydrophobic. This implies that a good base layer will always repel water and result in quick drying.

The Merino wool fabric has inherent hydrophobic properties as well as moisture wicking properties. They absorb sweat and moisture from the body extremely quickly and at the same time the hydrophobic nature allows the fabric to dry out just as easily. This makes it a perfect choice for base layer and more desirable compared to other products on the market.

When should base layers be worn?

Base layers are ideally worn when the temperature drops below 15 degrees Celsius, as our body temperature then drops and we need extra protection from heat.

If the temperature continues to drop, more layers can be added in the form of hoodies or jackets. If your trip involves snow, rain or wind, it is always advisable to include a hard shell jacket in your layered clothing as it would need to be waterproof.

Base layers are ideally used in winter when the temperature drops and your body starts to feel cold. From 15 degrees Celsius to 10 degrees Celsius you can use your normal cotton thermal or underwear.

If the temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius you will need a wool blend base layer as this should keep you warmer than the regular cotton. If the temperature is below 5 degrees Celsius, you must use a base layer made of merino wool, as it can keep you warm and dry at the same time.

Depending on the activities you choose to travel with, the use of the base layer also varies. If you’re planning a hike up any of the mountains, it’s always good to wear a base layer, even if the temperature is above 15 degrees Celsius.

The reason for this is that when you climb a mountain, the temperature drops significantly and you get cold. If you’re releasing energy for activity, you would also sweat a lot, which means you need clothing that has fast moisture-wicking properties.

Another example of wearing a base layer regardless of the temperature is when camping in the desert. Deserts have an extreme temperament, getting quite hot and cold quickly.

During the day it can be scorching hot, but in the evenings it can cool below 10 degrees Celsius. So if you wear a base layer before bed, it will help regulate temperature automatically and help you sleep well throughout the night.

Bae layers with the right material can also regulate body heat and wick away moisture.

How should base layers fit?

Last, but not least, fitting a baselayer has always been one of the most asked questions. Some people think that having a loose base layer is always better as it allows enough room for air to circulate and helps your body breathe. But that’s not the actual scenario.

Base layers have to fit snugly. It should fit the body very snugly, like a second skin, without being too tight. The entire purpose of the base layer is to wick moisture away from your body and keep it fresh. It also helps keep your skin dry (as long as you use a breathable material for your base layer).

Wearing a base layer that doesn’t fit snugly against your body defeats that purpose. This would also make your body feel cold as there is enough space for air to circulate without trapping the air.

A good base layer is one that fits snugly, is smooth against the skin, is lightweight, regulates temperature, and has quick-drying technology.

Now that you know all about base layers, would you like to learn more about other layers and the winter layer system? Check out Kosha to learn more about the layers. You can also shop your favorite styles here.

How often should you wash base layers?

Jackets, sweatshirts, hoodies, and other layered gear don’t require a frequent washing schedule. Laundering these items every 5-10 wears, especially if they’re worn as outer layers to stay warm, is usually enough. As always, read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions before you throw them in the wash.

Sew Your Own Activewear Book – SEWRENDIPITY

Have you ever looked at something and wondered how often you should wash it? A few months ago I read a Facebook debate about how often to wash jeans. Let me tell you – opinions varied widely and strongly! I’ve seen every response from “never” (really?!) to “every wear” from someone who keeps their jeans in the freezer so they keep their shape.

This debate got me thinking about all the other clothes and household items we use and how often you should wash them. Do you really have to wash every piece of clothing after every wear? what about towels Pillow?

None of us want to walk around in dirty smelly clothes. But it’s also no secret that frequent washing can wear out your clothes and shorten their lifespan. So I decided it was time to find out (and share) once and for all how often to wash…everything!

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How often should you wash your clothes?

There is no blanket answer to how often you should wash your clothes. This is especially true for children’s clothing and items that are subject to heavy use. For some kids, you probably need to wash shirts and play clothes after each wear (let’s be honest, probably after an hour).

Other items, such as children’s clothing, work clothes, suits, ties, and even pajamas, have different schedules. The first rule is always to check the label and read the manufacturer’s instructions. If you need a guide on what all those little symbols mean, read my post on deciphering laundry symbols and what they mean. (I even made a printable guide to help you translate the hieroglyphs.)

As for general guidelines, you should wash the following items.

How often should you wash knitwear and casual wear?

A lot of casual wear, like t-shirts and tanks, are knitted, which means you can safely wash these items every time you wear them. Most garments that you wear as a base layer should be washed frequently as oil and sweat tend to get trapped in the fibres. Also, knitwear tends to stretch and warp if not washed regularly. Laundering these items after each wear will also help treat pit stains!

Most knitwear can be washed with like colors following label guidelines. 100% cotton items tend to shrink during the first few wash and dry cycles, so you may want to let them air dry or remove them from the dryer early. To avoid wrinkles, simply pull the garments out of the dryer immediately and fold them. Hanging can also be good for some items, but remember that hanging can stretch your neck and cause shoulder dimples on some knitwear.

How often should you wash jeans?

The source of the great debate – jeans! So how often should you really wash your jeans? Well, jeans manufacturers recommend washing them every 3-10 times. For raw denim (those expensive designer jeans), washing should be very economical to prevent fading, but for “regular” Gap or Levi’s jeans, you can wash them about every three times. Oh, and the freezing method? It doesn’t work!

For dark denim, turning the jeans inside out can help prevent fading. You should also avoid putting stretchy jeans in the dryer for too long, as high heat can cause the elastic to break. But remember, if you pull out jeans while they’re still damp, you must fold or hang them immediately, or you may end up with an odd pattern of creases.

How often should you wash bras? Underwear? socks?

Bras seem to be another point of discussion. I’ve already explained why you should always hand wash your bras to prolong their life and keep them looking their best. Wash your bras every 3-6 times you wear them. If you must use the machine, put them in a laundry bag and wash on the gentle cycle. Good bras can be a serious investment and as every girl knows, bra shopping is the WORST thing, so don’t ruin your bra by boiling and boiling it in the wash.

As for underwear and socks, it probably goes without saying, but you should wash these items every time you wear them. Sweat and bacteria collect on our feet and lower regions and it is hygienic and healthy to wash these items every time you wear them. If you care about keeping your “good” underwear beautiful, you can definitely hand wash them or use a laundry bag to protect them. With socks, it’s best to roll them up and flatten them before throwing them in the washing machine so they end up really clean and dry.

How often should you wash pajamas?

Pajamas are another item of clothing I get asked about. Do you have to wash your pajamas after every wear? Doesn’t that add so much to your laundry? Good news! You don’t have to wash your pajamas every time you wear them, especially if you only put them on at bedtime and take them off in the morning. As long as they still smell fresh and clean, you can wear them 3 or 4 times before washing. You can wait a little longer if you shower in the evening right before you put on your pajamas.

Robes can be used for many purposes before you need to wash them, but again, make sure your robe passes the ‘sniff test’. If it starts to smell sour or bad, then it’s definitely time to wash it. If you only put it on after your bath (and especially if you put it on over your pajamas) you can wear it for a few rounds before you need to wash your robe.

How often should you wash workout gear and athleisure?

Training equipment is a little tricky. Unnecessary extra washing can degrade the fabric, but so can sweat, sunscreen and deodorant. You may find that your antiperspirant is causing the armpits of your training tops to become a bit stiff or yellow. You can spot treat pit stains with a little vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.

Your sports bra will likely need to be washed after each workout. Hand wash and air dry to maintain hold and elasticity. If you’re doing light exercise and sweating minimally (like a gentle yoga workout, for example), you might want to wash it after every other wear. The same goes for yoga pants and leggings.

Unfortunately, unwashed workout clothes can lead to breakouts. The special sweat-wicking material wicks moisture away from the body but traps it in the fabric fibers. This leads to that sweaty, musty smell that we all want to avoid. If you want to be on the safe side, wash your workout gear every time you sweat. Yes, the items may not last as long, but use it as an excuse to shop for more comfortable, casual athleisurewear.

Jackets, sweatshirts, hoodies and other layered garments don’t require a frequent washing schedule. Washing these items every 5-10 times is usually sufficient, especially if worn as an outer layer to stay warm. As always, read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions before throwing them in the wash.

How often should you clean sweaters?

Have you ever pulled a sweater out of the dryer and panicked? It’s easy to forget when you’re in a laundry mood, but most sweaters are dry-clean only (see label-reading info above). Because of the loose weave of the fibers and materials like synthetics, cotton, and wool, sweaters don’t like too much heat or even water.

But dry cleaning gets expensive, especially in winter when your sweaters are in heavy rotation. You can freshen up sweaters by gently hand washing them with mild soap and vinegar. Gently roll the sweater in a towel to squeeze out water, then lay flat to dry.

If you layer your sweaters over another top, you might be able to dry clean them once or twice a season. However, be careful when storing sweaters for the summer months. Sweat and food particles can attract moths and other pests, so it’s best to store them after cleaning.

How often should work clothes be washed?

Assuming you have an office job, you may need to regularly wash jackets, blouses, suits and ties. Read every single tag so you don’t ruin an expensive piece by accidentally washing it if it’s only dry-cleaned. Again, you don’t have to have your work clothes dry cleaned every time you wear them. If it smells fresh and keeps its shape, you can probably wash it every 3-4 wears.

Can you do dry cleaning at home? There are special home dry cleaning kits that you can use to clean clothes at home. These kits are useful for freshening up and spot-treating your clothes, but they don’t do the same job as a professional dry-cleaner. Many natural fabrics can also be hand washed and ironed at home, but do so with care. You can test the fabric for bleeding or fading in an inconspicuous area before submerging it in a water bath. Anything embellished or made of delicate materials (like silk) should be left to professionals.

How often should you clean formal and elegant clothes?

That little black dress you bring out once or twice a year for wedding season probably doesn’t need cleaning after every wear. If you don’t spill anything during the toast or work up a sweat on the dance floor, you can hang the dress back in your closet and wear it multiple times. If you spill something, quickly blot or scrape as much of the stain as possible, treat if you can, and take the item to your dry cleaner’s as soon as possible.

Suits, tuxedos and formal dresses should be cleaned by a professional. These items are often far too expensive for a laundering mishap to be worthwhile. Protect your investment and treat yourself to a dry clean after a few wears (which may only be every few years).

How often should you clean coats and outerwear?

Your winter coat will last most of the season without the need for professional cleaning. Some parkas are machine washable, so check the label. Be sure to remove fur trim or other accessories if possible. And close or close the coat to prevent the hardware from damaging the fabric during the wash cycle.

You should have most coats professionally cleaned before putting them away for the season. Always use a professional cleaner for wool, leather and suede (or coats with a lot of detailing). Dry cleaning a coat can be expensive, but it’s often worth the cost of around $25 to get an item that you’ll wear for several years.

How often should you wash these household items?

Now that we have the definitive list of how often you should wash your clothes, let’s take a look at household items. Many of these pieces go under the radar with regular washing, but over time they can get dust mites, mold, and worse. This is how often you should wash these everyday household items.

How often should you wash towels?

Do you wash your towel after each use or do you hang it up and let it dry for the next shower? If you set one towel per person in your household and they only use the towel after bathing, you don’t have to wash it every time it’s used. You’re probably drying off your clean body that you just washed, so the towel should stay clean too.

Wash bath towels after 3-4 uses. You might want to wash them more often if they look dirty, if you dye your hair (and the color transfers to the towel), or if someone in your household uses benzoyl peroxide on their skin, which can fade clothes and other items.

Washcloths should be washed after each use, towels should be changed daily or every other day depending on frequency of use. Kitchen towels need to be cleaned daily to prevent the spread of bacteria and foodborne illnesses.

How often should you wash table linen?

Tablecloths are less popular than they were a few decades ago. Many of our mothers and grandmothers cleaned and starched tablecloths and napkins almost every week. These days, most of us only pull out the “fancy” tablecloth and napkins for special occasions. Placemats and table runners are the norm.

Table decor trends aside, you can probably wash your tablecloth after multiple uses, assuming nothing spills on the table. Food and oils stain, so if there are any drips after Thanksgiving, you should put the tablecloth in the washing machine and treat it right away. Most tablecloths today are made from stain-resistant polyester, making them easy to wash and wrinkle-resistant (vintage tablecloths need a finer touch).

How often should you wash your linens?

You should wash your linens weekly, at least every two weeks. Clean sheets are especially important for people who suffer from pimples and skin problems, as oil and sweat can transfer to your linens at night.

Fortunately, most sheets are easy to care for. You can just throw them in the washer and dryer and they’re ready to use, no special handling needed. Taking the sheets out of the dryer right away will keep them wrinkle-free and looking great. Fold the fitted sheet, then the top sheet, and wrap them in a pillowcase to keep each set neat and together.

How often should you wash pillows?

Allergy sufferers may be surprised to discover that your pillow can be a significant source of discomfort. Pillows trap dust mites, dander and even pollen. It is important that you wash your pillows regularly and even replace them often!

I was amazed at the difference washing my pillows made. They went from dingy to bright white and looked brand new in just a simple wash. Washing them was easy and now I do it regularly. Experts recommend washing the pillowcases every three weeks, replacing the inner pillow every three months, and replacing the pillows every six months to three years.

How often should you wash blankets and sheets?

Like pillows, your comforters and blankets can trap dust mites, pet fur and dander, and more. It is best to wash your blankets and other linens regularly. Comforters may require a professional dry cleaning or a trip to the laundromat. Often, larger capacity washers and dryers can handle bulkier blankets better.

It might seem like a chore to wash these items often, but washing your comforter or comforter once a season will help everyone in your household stay healthy and breathe easy. If someone in your family gets sick, you should wash and clean all bedding, including the comforter, to prevent the spread of the disease.

Hopefully this gives you a good idea of ​​how and how often you should wash everything in your house. Taking care of your laundry regularly makes the task less overwhelming and a little easier. Once you get into a routine, you may find that you do less laundry than you used to (just make sure you take your jeans out of the freezer and put them in the laundry)!

How many layers should you wear at 0 degrees?

To dress for cold weather, you need three layers to work in concert for maximum warmth: Base layer: Your long underwear needs to keep your skin as dry as possible. Middle layer: Your fleece or puffy jacket needs to hang onto as much body heat as possible.

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On days when you catch your breath, your clothing strategy is crucial. Here are our tips on how to dress when the temperatures drop.

Layers, layers everywhere

Layering allows you to adjust your body’s thermostat by adding and removing items to maintain a consistent level of comfort as conditions and your exertion level change. For a more detailed explanation read Layering Basics. This clothing strategy is especially important in wintry weather.

To dress for cold weather, you need three layers that work together for maximum warmth:

Base Layer: Your long underwear needs to keep your skin as dry as possible. Middle layer: Your fleece or puffy jacket needs to be able to absorb as much body heat as possible. Outer layer: Your rainwear needs to protect you from rain and wind.

How to choose your base/underwear layer

Warm skin starts with dry skin, so your long underwear’s job is to wick sweat away from you. (Wet skin is a recipe for freezing.)

Fabric: Synthetic materials like polyester are both moisture wicking and drying. Wool – soft, non-itchy merino wool – is a good choice from natural fibers.

Synthetic fabrics like polyester excel at both moisture wicking and drying. Wool – soft, non-itchy merino wool – is a good choice from natural fibers. Fit: Moisture wicking can’t occur in places where the fabric doesn’t touch the skin, so you want a comfortable, snug (not tight) fit throughout.

Moisture wicking can’t occur where the fabric doesn’t touch the skin, so you want a comfortable (not tight) fit everywhere. Thickness (weight): Heavy weight makes sense in freezing temperatures and low activity levels. Middleweight is a good all-around choice. Lightweight is best left to milder conditions.

Buy long underwear

How to choose your mid/insulating layer

This is the layer most of us think of in cold conditions, so it’s not surprising that its job is to retain heat.

Insulation Material: If you’re a big fleece fan then make sure your jacket is heavyweight fleece. When it comes to severe colds, down jackets come into play. Down is the gold standard here, but not great when it gets wet. Down jackets with synthetic fill are a better choice when conditions are damp or you get a serious sweat. To learn more, read Down vs. Synthetics: Which Insulation Is Right For You?

If you’re a big fleece fan, make sure your jacket is heavyweight fleece. When it comes to severe colds, down jackets come into play. Down is the gold standard here, but not great when it gets wet. Down jackets with synthetic fill are a better choice when conditions are damp or you get a serious sweat. To learn more, read Down vs. Synthetics: Which Insulation Is Right For You? Insulation Thickness: This is tricky because you can’t rely on thickness to indicate warmth level when insulation types differ. And any temperature rating on a jacket doesn’t make sense because there are too many variables – wind, rain, activity level and more. However, you can consider two jackets with identical insulation specifications and conclude that bulkier is warmer. To learn more, read How to Choose Insulated Outerwear.

This is difficult because you cannot rely on thickness to indicate degree of warmth when insulation types differ. And any temperature rating on a jacket doesn’t make sense because there are too many variables – wind, rain, activity level and more. However, you can consider two jackets with identical insulation specifications and conclude that bulkier is warmer. To learn more, read How to Choose Insulated Outerwear. FULL COVERAGE: It’s easy to become obsessed with jackets. Save some love for the legs. Pack fleece pants or insulated pants to keep your bottom half as warm as your top.

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How to choose your outer layer (shell jackets and pants)

This is your outer line of defense. Although often referred to as “rainwear”, this layer’s job is to protect the layers below from snow, sleet, rain and wind. For a detailed discussion of rainwear, read How to Choose Rainwear. Whatever you wear needs three important attributes:

Rainfall Protection: A moisture-wicking base layer can’t keep your skin dry when what’s falling from the sky is soaking you from the outside. In winter, you don’t want to sacrifice heat for evaporative cooling. So wear a “waterproof” rather than just “waterproof” case unless conditions are crystal clear and shelter is always nearby. For a deeper dive read What does it mean when a jacket is water repellent?

A moisture-wicking base layer can’t keep your skin dry when what’s falling from the sky is soaking you from the outside. In winter, you don’t want to sacrifice heat for evaporative cooling. So wear a “waterproof” rather than just “waterproof” case unless conditions are crystal clear and shelter is always nearby. For a deeper dive read What does it mean when a jacket is water repellent? Breathable Protection: Sweat wicked away from your base layer needs to be able to escape. Wear a breathable cover, otherwise moisture can build up inside and leave you soaked. You don’t need the most expensive GORE-TEX ® rainwear—any shell that’s labeled “waterproof/breathable” should have you covered.

Sweat that is wicked away from your base layer needs to be able to escape. Wear a breathable cover, otherwise moisture can build up inside and leave you soaked. You don’t need the most expensive GORE-TEX rainwear—any shell that’s labeled “waterproof/breathable” should have you covered. Windchill Protection The good news is that any shell that is “waterproof” is also “windproof”.

The good news is that every “waterproof” case is also “windproof”. Shell Pants: Cold, wet ankles are no fun, so make sure your boot tops are covered. If your pants can’t do that, consider adding a pair of leggings.

Buy shell jackets

Buy shell pants

This keeps your head, hands and feet warm

To prevent the extremities from getting cold, cover yourself all over. See How to keep your hands warm for some tips. The warmest options in hats, gloves and shoes do what layers do elsewhere: channel, insulate and block out rain and wind.

Hats: Wool and synthetic hats work well, and you can rely on the hood of your shell jacket for rain protection. Full-on winter hats have insulation in a shell material. Make sure headgear covers your ears. If your face is uncomfortably cold, wear a balaclava.

Wool and synthetic hats work well, and you can rely on the hood of your shell jacket for rain protection. Full-on winter hats have insulation in a shell material. Make sure headgear covers your ears. If your face is uncomfortably cold, wear a balaclava. Gloves: Fleece gloves provide basic warmth. Insulated gloves, especially those with waterproof/breathable shells, are better. Mittens are always a warmer option than a glove made of the same materials as they share the warmth of the fingers.

Fleece gloves provide basic warmth. Insulated gloves, especially those with waterproof/breathable shells, are better. Mittens are always a warmer option than a glove made of the same materials as they share the warmth of the fingers. Boots: Boots with thick, non-cotton socks can provide warmth when conditions are only cold but not wet or snowy. Waterproof boots are the next step. Winter boots not only offer traction on snow or ice, but also insulation.

Boots with thick, non-cotton socks can provide warmth when conditions are only cold but not wet or snowy. Waterproof boots are the next step. Winter boots not only offer traction on snow or ice, but also insulation. A Warmer Coat: Think of it as a twist on “cold hands, warm heart.” When your heart is really warm, it has plenty of warm blood to pump to your hands and feet.

Think of it as a twist on “cold hands, warm heart.” When your heart is really warm, it has plenty of warm blood to pump to your hands and feet. Warmth Packs: You can also add warmth by tucking hand or foot warmers into your gloves or socks. Some gloves have pockets sized for the packets. Brands like Grabber and Heat Factory make them in a variety of sizes.

You can also add warmth by tucking hand or foot warmers into your gloves or socks. Some gloves have pockets sized for the packets. Brands like Grabber and Heat Factory make them in a variety of sizes. Electrical Accessories: If you prefer non-disposable warmth (and have plenty of disposable income), you can get rechargeable warmers, gloves, socks, and insoles. However, the price is steep, so most people only turn to them when their hands and feet are chronically cold.

Additional layering tips for cold weather

Don’t wait to change layers: pull on a shell at the first sign of rain or wind, and shrug off your insulated jacket as soon as you start sweating. Staying warm and dry is easier than warming up or drying out.

Put on a rain jacket at the first sign of rain or wind and take off your insulating jacket as soon as you start sweating. Staying warm and dry is easier than warming up or drying out. Cotton is a no-no in every layer: Put aside your love for cotton flannel (or anything cotton) because it soaks up water and takes forever to dry. This is a recipe for hypothermia.

Put aside your love for cotton flannel (or anything cotton) because it soaks up water and takes forever to dry. This is a recipe for hypothermia. Layers should work well together: middle and outer layers need to slide up and down. If they are too snug with the layers underneath, it becomes awkward to adjust and you risk restricting circulation.

Beyond clothing

To learn additional strategies for staying warm outdoors and cold-weather health concerns, see How to Stay Warm Without a Fire and Tips for Winter Camping and Backpacking.

How many days can you wear base layers?

Unlike most synthetic pieces, you can also normally get 2-3 days use out of them between washes before they start to smell too badly, as long as you use them in appropriate temperatures.

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Today, most base layers are made from either synthetic materials – typically polyester or polypropylene – or merino wool, although hybrid designs using both are becoming increasingly popular. While the end goal remains the same, both materials achieve it in slightly different ways and with different advantages and disadvantages.

Synthetic sports underwear

Many mountain apparel manufacturers now have their own proprietary synthetic fabrics, the most well-known of which are Helly Hansen’s Lifa® and Patagonia’s Capilene®, although most are fairly similar in terms of materials. They tend to be cheaper than their merino counterparts and wick sweat much better. The downside is that they often get smelly pretty quickly; You can’t wear synthetic underwear for days in a row like you can with merino.

How does synthetic thermal underwear work?

Synthetic base layers regulate moisture by wicking it away from your skin, much like a wick on a lit candle draws wax along its length. This process of drawing liquid along a fibrous path is actually known as capillary action. During high activity sports, moisture and heat accumulate in the base layer, creating a temperature and moisture gradient between the inside and outside of the garment. This is what drives the wicking process – the high humidity air inside the garment naturally wants to move toward equilibrium, which means it wants to move to the lower humidity environment outside. When sweat comes into contact with the synthetic material, it is drawn along the fibers – without being absorbed – and drawn out through tiny holes in the fabric to the outside of the garment, where it can evaporate without cooling the body.

Because of their ability to better manage moisture, synthetic base layers remain the top choice for high-performance activities like ski touring, although they require more frequent laundering than merino wool, making them better for day trips and one-time use. They generally feel comfortable and smooth against the skin and dry much faster than wool, making them less muggy and heavy after a heavy sweat.

Pros and cons of Merino

Merino has been a buzzword in the outdoor industry for a number of years, and with good reason. This natural fiber that’s almost too good to be true is ideal for base layers: it manages moisture well, stays warm when wet, and can literally stand WEEKS in a sweat before it starts smelling and needs washing. The downsides are that it’s typically more expensive than synthetic garments, doesn’t handle moisture as well, takes longer to dry, and is less durable. Cheaper, inferior merino wool can also be itchy on the skin – you get what you pay for here.

Technically, merino doesn’t actually wick sweat, although the end result is the same. Instead of pulling moisture along the fibers and out through tiny gaps in the fabric, merino fibers actually absorb it. The inner core or cortex of a Merino fiber is capable of holding over 30% of its own weight in moisture, which is then drawn through the same moisture gradient described above to the outside of the garment where it can evaporate. We’re usually taught that materials that absorb so much moisture – like cotton – are bad for base layers, but merino has a trick up its sleeve. The outsides of wool fibers are coated with a waxy substance called lanolin, which is water repellent. Since this hydrophobic layer is the part that touches your skin, the feeling of moisture is reduced even when the garment is soaked. The same layer also helps wool garments shed light rain.

Merino wool has the added benefit of retaining its insulating properties even when wet – and even generating heat through the process of absorbing water. Moisture is absorbed into the wool fibers in a reversible chemical reaction through the interaction of hydrogen bonds. The reaction generates heat as water is absorbed and absorbs it as moisture is given off; This “magic” is known as “heat of sorption”. to the drier indoor environment, it starts producing heat immediately as it absorbs moisture when you go outside. This process usually takes place within two to five minutes and slows down as the moisture content of the wool reaches equilibrium with the higher relative humidity of the new environment.

The downside to merino wool’s tremendous water absorbency is that it takes longer to dry than synthetic materials and can therefore feel heavy and slightly uncomfortable when soaked. It is best suited for lower-intensity activities in cold weather and, due to its odor resistance, for longer trips where you don’t have the luxury of changing clothes every day. Your friends will thank you if you wear merino layers on long ski boat trips or camping in a storm! Merino wool is also less durable than synthetics, requires more care when washing and drying, and is typically more expensive.

Hybrid underwear made of synthetic and merino wool

Many brands are now using a combination of synthetic and merino fibers to create hybrid garments. These pieces combine the best properties of both materials to create excellent base layers that are great for all-around use. They tend to be odor resistant, insulate much better than synthetic garments (though not quite as well as pure merino wool), regulate moisture better, and are more durable than pure merino wool.

Can I wear base layer only?

Yes: Base Layers Are Made to Be Worn by Themselves

They are designed to keep you warm and dry while active, so there’s no need to layer them with anything else. A good base layer should fit snugly and not bunch up when moving. It is essential to choose a suitable base layer for the activity you will be doing.

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What is a base layer?

A base layer is an essential part of a layering system for outdoor activities in cold weather. It’s the layer of clothing closest to your skin and helps regulate your body heat by wicking sweat away from your skin. A good base layer should be comfortable, breathable and insulating. There are many different types of base layers on the market, so it’s important to choose one that suits your needs.

Yes: base layers are made to be worn by yourself

Base layers are made to be worn alone. They’re designed to keep you warm and dry while you’re active, so you don’t have to layer them with anything else. A good base layer should fit snugly and not bunch up as you move. It is important to choose an appropriate base layer for the activity you will be doing. For example, when skiing or snowboarding, a wool or synthetic base layer is a good choice. You can even wear them at home as loungewear.

How do you choose the baselayer that’s right for you?

A base layer is an essential part of a winter wardrobe. It’s the first layer of clothing you put on and it helps regulate your body temperature. There are many different base layers, so how do you choose the right one for you? The first step is to consider what climate you live in. If you live in a cold environment, you need a base layer made out of a warm material like wool, polyester, or fleece. The next step is to look at the activities you will be doing. Let’s say you do activities that require a lot of movement, like skiing or snowboarding. In this case, you need a base layer made of a stretchy and breathable material.

What are the benefits of wearing a base layer?

Base layers are the basis of a good ski outfit. They are essential because they keep you warm and dry. There are many different base layers, but they all have the same goal: to make you feel comfortable. When shopping for a baselayer, it’s important to find one that fits well. You should also consider the climate in which you will be skiing.

So can you wear a base layer alone? The answer is yes!

As the weather turns cooler, you might be wondering if you can get away with wearing a base layer to stay warm. The answer is yes – you can definitely wear a base layer on its own. However, choosing the appropriate base layer for your participatory activity is crucial.

What’s the difference between base layer and compression?

A runner’s base layer is the first layer of clothing worn against the skin during a run. Ideally, it should be lightweight and breathable. Compression garments are made with tighter-than-normal fabric that compresses the body in order to increase blood flow back to the heart and prevent muscle soreness.

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Introduction to base layers

Base layers are an essential part of winter clothing. They keep you warm and dry by wicking moisture away from your skin. It is important that you wear appropriate cloth underwear for your activity. You should always wear a base layer that retains its insulating properties when wet. Many people confuse compression layers with base layers. The two are not interchangeable.

You’ve seen athletes in high-intensity sports like ice hockey or soccer wear compression garments when not playing. The reason for this is that compression garments help increase blood flow and reduce pain after physical exertion, which can be crucial for recovery in these sports. But what about base layers? They’re often worn under your regular clothing, but what exactly is that?

What is a base layer?

A base layer is a garment that is worn next to the skin, such as a B. Underwear and long johns. Base layers are essential to regulate body temperature during exercise and cold-weather activities. Durable materials like wool or fleece provide warmth and protection from the elements while allowing for moisture management. The main difference between a base layer and compression garments is the fit.

What are compression leggings?

Compression leggings are a new sportswear trend sweeping the nation. These form fitting leggings are designed to maximize blood flow and circulation in the legs while providing some muscle support. You can buy compression leggings in a variety of styles, from high-waisted to full-length. They are often more expensive than your typical leggings due to their efficiency and quality material. They come in a variety of colors so you can accentuate your style.

Are our base layers good for fitness?

A runner’s base layer is the first layer of clothing worn next to the skin during a run. Ideally, it should be light and breathable. Compression garments are made of fabric that is tighter than normal and compresses the body to increase blood flow back to the heart and prevent muscle soreness. It can also offer moisture-wicking properties to keep sweat away from the skin.

Should you wear a base layer or compression garments?

Baselayer or Long John underwear is perfect for all but the most extreme cold. The compression garments are ideal for those who need to stay cool at all times, especially those who wear them to exercise. Compression garments are designed to prevent chafing, as are base layers. Compression clothing releases heat from the body. This creates an environment that keeps you cool for longer.

Conclusion

The debate is simple: are compression tights better than liner tights? Compression tights are tight-fitting garments made from elastic materials that are designed to be worn under clothing. They help increase blood flow throughout the body, reducing the risk of injury and improving circulation. On the other hand, baselayer tights are thin and form-fitting garments designed to provide warmth.

How do you properly layer?

How to layer: To understand layering your clothing for outdoor activities, you need to know the function of each layer:
  1. Base layer (underwear layer): wicks sweat off your skin.
  2. Middle layer (insulating layer): retains body heat to protect you from the cold.
  3. Outer layer (shell layer): shields you from wind and rain.

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When you step outside, the age-old art of layering becomes your thermostat with smart technology. This proven strategy lets you regulate comfort by slipping layers on and off as your activity level or the weather changes.

Layering: To understand the layering of your outdoor clothing, you need to know the function of each layer:

Base layer (undergarment layer): wicks sweat away from the skin Middle layer (insulating layer): retains body heat to protect you from the cold Outer layer (shell layer): protects you from wind and rain

Even if you don’t wear all three layers to begin with, it’s a good idea to pack all layers with you on every outing: you can shrug off layers when it gets hot, but you can’t put on layers that you haven’t brought with you for a long time.

Want to talk to a live expert about layering? If you have questions, we have answers. Virtual Outfitting makes it easy to get expert advice and gear tips from the comfort of anywhere. Make a virtual appointment

Examples of layers in cold, rain and heat

We are often asked how to dress for certain weather layers. However, any suggestions based solely on weather overlook important considerations such as exercise level and personal metabolism. The following examples are for a hypothetical person who doesn’t get particularly hot or cold doing a half-day hike of an intermediate level:

Cold Weather Layers:

Mid-weight long polyester top and bottom; a jacket with synthetic insulation; medium-weight fleece pants; waterproof/breathable rain jacket and pants.

Rainy weather layers (cool temperatures):

Upper and lower part made of light polyester underwear; light fleece jacket; synthetic hiking pants; lightweight waterproof/breathable rain jacket and pants (with lots of vents).

Layers for hot weather:

polyester briefs and a short-sleeved synthetic t-shirt; convertible hiking pants made of nylon; light windbreaker.

You literally have dozens of alternatives and options for each of these levels. The trick is to choose options that make the most sense based on where you’re going, what you’re doing, and what you have to spend.

It’s also important to take the time to adjust shifts as conditions change. When the rain and wind subside, remove your shell. If hiking alone doesn’t warm you up, add a mid layer. And many people add a middle layer (top) and/or an outer layer at every rest stop just to avoid getting cold.

Base layer: moisture management

As a next-to-skin layer, a base layer wicks sweat away from the skin, also known as “wicking.” In cool or cold conditions, long underwear style moisture-wicking base layers are required to keep your skin dry. This is important because it will help prevent you from getting cold or worse – hypothermia.

Base layer materials: You have a wide variety of fabric options, including synthetics like polyester and nylon, or natural fibers like merino wool and silk. While there are subtle differences in each fabric’s ability to wick and dry, as well as odor control and durability, many people simply choose based on their personal fabric preferences. For a detailed discussion of base layer materials, see How to Select Base Layers.

Base Layer Weights: Your options are straightforward—light, medium, and heavy—though you might also see terms like “ultralight” on one end of the spectrum or “expedition weight” on the other. Generally, heavier (thicker) fabrics will keep you warmer, although that’s not really the primary purpose of a base layer (wicking).

Warm weather base layers: Long underwear may not be attractive in high temperatures, but dry skin tends to make you feel more comfortable in all conditions. (Nobody likes clammy, damp skin.) Here are some other warm-weather baselayer considerations:

Any summer shirt really is a base layer, so look for ones that offer moisture wicking.

Some shirts designed for warm weather disperse moisture through the fabric, where evaporation helps cool you down. They’re not really marketed as a base layer, but as a next-to-skin layer, they can increase your comfort in hot weather.

Undergarments like panties, boxers, and bras should also be moisture-wicking (the same goes for wearing them under your long underwear in winter).

UPF-rated base layers give you extra sun protection. Read How to Choose Sun Protection Clothing (UPF) for more details.

Cotton, considered taboo in winter because it foams water and makes you chill, can be okay when you’re outside on a super-dry, scorching summer day.

New fabric technologies such as wool with ceramic particles provide base layers that literally cool your skin and increase comfort.

Shop for base layers and underwear

Middle layer: insulation

The insulating layer helps you retain heat radiated from your body. The more efficiently this layer traps that heat, the warmer you’ll feel.

Mid-Layer Materials: Just like with base layers, you have a wide range of options, both synthetic and natural. In general, thicker (or bulkier) equals warmer, although the efficiency of the insulating material is also important. Below are some common mid-layer materials, although other options such as wool and wool blend tops are also available.

Here are some of your top middle layer options:

Polyester Fleece: Available in light, medium, and heavy fabrics (sometimes marketed as 100s, 200s, and 300s), fleece keeps you warm even when it gets wet and dries quickly. Fleece also breathes well, so you’re less likely to overheat in it.

The downside to breathability, however, is that wind blows right through, which can steal heat. That’s why you need to have a shell layer with you if you’re going with a fleece mid-layer. (Another option is to wear Windfleece, which includes an inner wind-blocking membrane.)

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Down Insulated Jackets: Because they’re highly compressible for easy packing, they offer more warmth for their weight than any other insulation material. The efficiency of down is measured in fill power – from 450 to 900. Since down is always in an outer material, down jackets also offer a certain water and wind resistance. The disadvantage of down is that it loses its insulating effect when it gets wet.

Synthetic Insulated Jackets: Synthetic insulation has long attempted to mimic the efficiency of down and is getting closer to that standard every year. And while synthetics don’t compress as well as down, they’re a popular option for rainy conditions because they retain their insulating ability when they get wet. And like down, synthetic insulation is always housed in an outer fabric that provides additional water and wind protection.

For more details see How to Choose Insulated Outerwear and Down vs. Synthetics: Which Insulation is Right for You?

Buy insulated jackets

Outer layer: rain and wind protection

The outer layer (or shell layer) protects you from wind, rain and snow. Shells range from expensive mountaineering jackets to simple windproof jackets. Most let at least some sweat escape; Virtually all are treated with a Durable Water Repellency (DWR) finish to allow water to bead up and roll off the fabric.

Your outer shell is an important piece in stormy weather because when wind and water are allowed to penetrate the inner layers, you can become seriously chilled.

Shells fall into the following categories:

Waterproof/Breathable Shells: Your most functional (and expensive) choice, this type of shell is your best option for heavy gusts of wind. In general, more expensive is drier, although more expensive shells are often more durable.

Water-Repellent/Breathable Shells: These are better suited to rainy, breezy conditions and high activity levels. Less expensive than waterproof/breathable shells, they’re typically made from tightly woven nylon or polyester fabrics that shed light wind and light rain.

See How to choose rainwear for more information.

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Softshells: These emphasize breathability. Most feature stretch fabric or panels for added comfort during aerobic activities. Many combine light rain and wind protection with light insulation, effectively combining two layers in a single jacket.

Buy soft shells

Waterproof/Non-Breathable Shells: These bare bones shells are suitable for rainy days with light to no activity (e.g. fishing, spectators). They are typically made from coated nylon, which is waterproof and windproof. If you exert yourself while wearing them, you’ll likely soak your layers underneath with sweat.

Video: What to wear when camping – layering basics

Related Articles

What is the best material for thermals?

Synthetic Thermal Underwear Fabric – Made especially for extreme cold conditions, synthetic fabrics are the best for thermal underwear. Polyester, spandex, lycra, and nylon are often combined with other natural fibers to provide the right amount of moisture wicking properties and heat retention required.

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You’re going down a mountain.

You reach the ground in a light sweat and you feel it.

The wet, clammy feeling under ski pants.

Yes.

You bought the wrong underwear.

These 100% cotton long johns lock in all the moisture.

The perfect thermal pants keep you warm and wick sweat away.

Layers are the easiest way to protect your body from extreme cold. The base layer is the one closest to your body. Take care and you don’t have to worry.

The benefits of choosing the right base layer?

sweat-wicking

Comfort without sacrificing the sex appeal of your clothes.

, without sacrificing the sex appeal of your clothes. Increased freedom of movement during outdoor activities.

for outdoor activities. Can be worn in layers – which improves the insulation of the clothing. Using multiple thin layers will trap more air than a thick single layer.

clothing. Using multiple thin layers will trap more air than a thick single layer. Potential energy savings at home as you don’t have to turn up the thermostat to stay warm.

When you buy thermal underwear you want performance, durability and comfort in all conditions. You don’t want to save.

In this article you will learn exactly what to look out for when buying thermal underwear.

#1 fit for thermal underwear

The perfect fit supports, but does not restrict.

Thermal underwear acts like a second skin – it forms an insulating layer between the body and the fabric.

For warm conditions – your underwear needs to be loose. In cold weather, tight-fitting underwear traps the heat generated by your body, increasing comfort.

When an athletic fit garment is advertised, expect it to be snug fitting.

If it’s a bad fit – the underwear will likely create hot pockets instead of dissipating heat, making you uncomfortable. Form-fitting underwear avoids this predicament, allowing you to comfortably layer over it.

Form-fitting underwear avoids this predicament, allowing you to comfortably layer over it.

Choose a garment with a smooth outer surface so your other clothes don’t get caught on it.

#2 Thermal underwear fabric

There are two components to choosing the right fabric – weight and material.

Thermal underwear fabric weight

Each weight of fabric offers different benefits. Here are some general guidelines for choosing the right weight for your base layer:

Ultralight: Also called microweight, suitable for mild to cool conditions.

Also called microweight, suitable for mild to cool conditions. Lightweight: Preferred for cool to moderately cold weather and for high levels of aerobic activity.

Preferred for cool to moderately cold weather and for high levels of aerobic activity. Moderate: Suitable for moderately cold to cold weather. Mid-weight fabrics are the most versatile and can be worn for a variety of casual and sporting activities.

Suitable for moderately cold to cold weather. Mid-weight fabrics are the most versatile and can be worn for a variety of casual and sporting activities. Heavyweight: Suitable for extremely cold and freezing temperatures when more warmth is needed to regulate body temperature. Heavier fabrics are suitable for winter sports in the snow.

Common fabric materials for thermal underwear

The material in your thermal underwear needs to be luxuriously soft yet exceptionally resilient to keep up with all weather conditions.

Synthetic fabric for thermal underwear – Synthetic fabrics are specially designed for extreme cold and are best suited for thermal underwear. Polyester, spandex, lycra, and nylon are often combined with other natural fibers to provide the right amount of moisture-wicking properties and heat retention.

Synthetic fabrics specifically designed for extreme cold are best suited for thermal underwear. Polyester, spandex, lycra, and nylon are often combined with other natural fibers to provide the right amount of moisture-wicking properties and heat retention. Wool Thermal Underwear Fabric – Natural fiber Merino wool cleverly balances your body temperature and provides excellent moisture management no matter the conditions.

The natural fiber merino wool cleverly balances your body temperature and ensures excellent moisture management, no matter the conditions. Silk Thermal Underwear Fabric – Silk is a lightweight option for activities in moderately cool weather. Wear it for recreational snow sports and indoor lounging. Silk offers a luxuriously soft texture without adding bulk. The disadvantage of this fabric is that it wicks moisture away from the body more slowly.

– Silk is a lightweight option for activities in moderately cool weather. Wear it for recreational snow sports and indoor lounging. Silk offers a luxuriously soft texture without adding bulk. The disadvantage of this fabric is that it wicks moisture away from the body more slowly. Cotton thermal underwear fabric – Unlike merino wool, synthetic fabrics or silk, cotton retains sweat. It leaves you feeling cool, wet and clammy. Despite the affordable price, cotton is the least preferred option for thermal underwear comfort.

The warmth-to-weight ratio of synthetic fabrics like acrylic and polyester is 3 to 8 times higher than knitted or woven fabrics like wool or cotton.

#3 Thermal underwear feature

What is your main reason for buying thermal underwear?

Do you need it for everyday use to keep you warm, or to help you move freely during physical activity, or to conserve body heat in freezing temperatures?

Warmth – Thermal underwear regulates your body temperature and keeps you warm and dry. The weight of the fabric determines the degree of warmth of the underwear.

Thermal underwear regulates your body temperature and keeps you warm and dry. The weight of the fabric determines the degree of warmth of the underwear. Stretch – Cotton tends to be limiting in its tendency to stretch evenly. Something with a 4-way stretch. cotton fails. Wool has some stretch properties.

Cotton tends to be limiting in its tendency to stretch evenly. Something with a 4-way stretch. cotton fails. Wool has some stretch properties. Bacterial Resistance – If you can’t shower every day, bacterial resistance is essential.

If you can’t shower daily, bacterial resistance is essential. Loft – Low-density fabrics in the fabric allow the garment to hold its shape while trapping air between layers. Fabrics with a good loft retain your body heat in the smallest space and with the greatest flexibility. They insulate body heat and prevent cold from reaching your body.

Low-density weaves in the fabric ensure the garment holds its shape while trapping air between the layers. Fabrics with a good loft retain your body heat in the smallest space and with the greatest flexibility. They insulate body heat and prevent cold from reaching your body. Moisture Wicking – Moisture wicking is important when choosing thermal underwear as the purpose of wearing thermal underwear is to stay warm and stay warm – you need to stay dry.

The heat-retaining properties of a base layer decrease drastically when it gets wet – either through moisture from the outside or through sweat. The body tends to lose heat faster during the rest period after physical activity, and the wet base layer lowers body temperature even further, leading to hypothermia or worse, death.

#4 thermal underwear styles

A cold climate base layer can be anything from t-shirts to briefs to long sleeve tops and long bottoms.

However, there are only two types of thermal underwear:

One-piece thermal underwear suit.

Two pieces, sold separately or as a set, consisting of a long-sleeved top and a bottom that covers the waist to the ankles.

Both styles can be very tight fitting and contoured to fit your body, or they can be looser fitting.

It all depends on the type of fabric, e.g. With a cotton blend, thermal underwear is likely to have a looser fit, while the microfibers are more form-fitting and tend to hold their shape better than the cotton types.

#5 Thermal Underwear Care

Read the manufacturer’s note for specific care instructions. To get the most out of your winter thermal underwear, follow these guidelines:

Cotton – Wash in cold water to avoid fabric shrinkage. Cotton takes longer to dry. For best results, allow to air dry. For faster results, lay the garment flat on a towel. Avoid hanging them up as the fabric will stretch and lose its shape over time.

Wash in cold water to avoid fabric shrinkage. Cotton takes longer to dry. For best results, allow to air dry. For faster results, lay the garment flat on a towel. Avoid hanging them up as the fabric will stretch and lose its shape over time. Silk – For silk thermal underwear, hand wash or use the delicates option in the washing machine.

Hand wash for silk thermal underwear or use the delicates option in the washing machine. Wool – The requirements for washing wool are similar to cotton fabrics. Was in cold water and dry on a towel for faster results.

Wool washing requirements are similar to cotton fabrics. Was in cold water and dry on a towel for faster results. Synthetic fabrics – These fabrics are easy to care for and dry quickly. For best results, wash them inside out. It is safe to wash them with warm water. They are dryer safe and retain their original shape even when hung out to dry.

Click below to watch the video – 5 tips for buying thermal underwear

What is the warmest base layer?

Baselayer Comparison Table
Baselayer Price Materials
Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm LS $100 52% merino, 29% polyester, 13% nylon, 6% elastane
Arc’teryx Rho LT Zip-Neck $125 84% polyester, 16% elastane
Black Diamond Solution 150 $135 78% merino, 22% polyester
Ortovox Rock’N’Wool LS $110 100% merino wool
31 thg 3, 2022

Sew Your Own Activewear Book – SEWRENDIPITY

As a next-to-skin garment, a base layer plays a fundamental role in wicking moisture away from the body and regulating core temperature. It’s a lot easier to justify buying a nice down jacket, but a base layer can be just as important for activities like skiing, hiking, and climbing. First, avoid cotton (like the old adage “cotton kills”). You need a fabric that will keep you warm when wet and that dries quickly, and merino wool and polyester are the most common materials. Below is our pick of the best baselayers of 2022. For more information, see our baselayer comparison chart and buying guide below the picks.

Our team’s baselayer recommendations

Best base layer overall

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 10 ounces.

What we like: Extremely soft, warm and resists water and stinks.

What we don’t like: Expensive and requires good care to last.

Smartwool has been the industry leader in base layers for years and merino wool is the most desirable material for the job. Made from 100% merino wool (many of the base layers below are blended or synthetic), the 250 Quarter-Zip is the total package: it’s warm, super soft against the skin, resists moisture, and doesn’t stink like the polyester options on the list. All in all, it’s a great base layer for skiing and other winter sports, and even has a UPF 50+ rating for use as an outer layer in milder weather. Based on the Smartwool 250’s popularity, it’s made in a number of versions, including a crew ($100) and hoodie ($135). But when we’re active, we appreciate the ability to lower the zip and regulate heat.

The Smartwool is the complete package, but merino wool doesn’t come cheap: you can save with one of the blends or polyester base layers below, including Patagonia’s popular Capilene. However, we prefer merino for its coziness, temperature regulation, ability to insulate when wet, and odor resistance. With polyester, you’ll likely need to wash and change your base layers fairly frequently, while wool will keep performance high over a multi-day backcountry or ski trip. The main downside to consider is Merino wool’s lack of durability – especially if you throw it in the dryer a lot – but it’s worth the trade-off for the high levels of comfort and performance. Among the growing selection of Merino wool, we believe Smartwool 250 offers the best balance of versatility, quality and value.

See Smartwool Merino 250 for men See Smartwool Merino 250 for women

Best synthetic base layer

Material: 100% recycled polyester

Category: Light/Middleweight

Weight: 6.2 ounces.

What we like: Cheaper and more durable than merino wool.

What we don’t like: Not quite as soft.

Choosing synthetics over merino wool has clear advantages, the most notable being cost and durability. For a little over half the price of the Smartwool above, Patagonia’s Capilene Midweight polyester offers similar warmth and moisture-wicking properties. And it will likely last for many seasons – we have Capilene tops that are several years old and count despite heavy use. And while plastics are not innocent when it comes to their environmental impact (they often rely on fossil fuels for manufacturing and can leach plastics into water with every wash), it helps that Patagonia makes the Capilene Midweight from 100 percent recycled materials.

What are you sacrificing when you choose a synthetic base layer? Polyester is decently comfortable, but not as soft on the skin, and it doesn’t regulate body temperature or repel odor as well as wool. That doesn’t mean your Capilene will stink very quickly — and Patagonia has made strides in this area with an odor-fighting HeiQ Fresh treatment — but you’ll find that you’ll need to give it a more frequent wash through the laundry. But wool can be finicky and not everyone wants to spend $100 or more on a base layer, which is why we love Patagonia’s Capilene line. For added warmth, try the Capilene Thermal Weight.

Check out the men’s Patagonia Capilene. Check out the Patagonia Capilene for women

Best budget baselayer

Material: 100% Polypropylene

Category: Light

Weight: 5.1 ounces.

What we like: Wicks moisture well and is great value for money.

What we don’t like: Not as warm as other base layers on this list.

There’s a lot to like about this lightweight active baselayer from Helly Hansen. At just $45, it’s one of the cheapest options on this list, but will still keep you dry and decently warm in most conditions. The headliner is the Lifa fabric, which is made of polypropylene and is specialized in wicking moisture away from the skin (it’s much better than polyester). Along with a nice athletic fit, the Lifa Stripe is great for active skiers and other high-performance activities like climbing and hiking.

The disadvantage of polypro compared to polyester or nylon is that it is not as warm. The Lifa Stripe Crew falls into our lightweight category, meaning it offers some insulation but requires a good mid-layer or insulated outer layer in cold conditions. It’s worth the trade-off for high-performance use, but if you prefer warmth over breathability, check out REI’s budget-oriented polyester range (including the $40 Lightweight Crew below). And it’s worth noting that Helly Hansen now offers the midweight Lifa Merino Crew ($100), which has a Merino wool outer and a Polypro lining.

Check out the Helly Hansen Lifa Stripe for men. Check out the Helly Hansen Lifa Stripe for women

Best heavy base layer for the cold

Materials: 100% Polyester

Category: Heavyweight

Weight: 10.2 ounces.

What we like: Warm for the weight, yet breathable and quick-drying.

What we don’t like: Too warm for most baselayer applications.

Patagonia’s R1 collection has long been a staple of their lineup, and the R1 Air recently joined the team with a highly technical design. The 100 percent recycled polyester fabric with hollow-core yarns and zig-zag pattern traps heat but allows air to pass from the inside out, resulting in a breathable yet warm layer that’s impressively lightweight. And when you work up a sweat, the polyester wicks away moisture effectively and dries out quickly. Patagonia completes the build with a functional 1/4-zip design to trap heat or shed excess heat, sleek off-the-shoulder seams, and a small zippered chest pocket. It all adds up to a cutting-edge, high-performance baselayer and one of the warmest offerings here.

Technically considered a fleece, the R1 Air forms the boundary between our baselayer and midlayer categories. As a base layer, it’s exceptionally heavy, which means you’ll want to save it for those extra cold winter days. On the downside, it offers less warmth than the 100 percent wool Woolx Glacier Long Sleeve Crew below, although the focus on breathability increases its appeal for high-performance activities (and it’s about $30 cheaper, to boot). Patagonia also offers its latest R1 Air in a crew and a full-zip hoody version, with the latter being best suited for mid-layer use.

Check out the men’s Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck. Check out the women’s Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck

Best lightweight base layer for mild weather

Materials: 87% Merino Wool, 13% Nylon

Category: Light

Weight: 6 ounces.

What we like: A great option for cool days and summer nights.

What we don’t like: Thin materials require more maintenance.

We’ve already listed the Smartwool Merino 250 as our top pick, but we’d be remiss not to add another standout baselayer to the 150 crew. Build quality is similar: Smartwool adds 13 percent nylon to the blend for durability, the weight drops significantly to 6 ounces (the absence of the zipper plays a part here, too), and you get the same minimalist stitching for comfort. Compared to the warm 250 above, the 150 is lighter and ideal for uses like spring skiing, off-season hiking and cool summer nights. You’ll feel like you’re wearing a lot less baselayer, but the increases in coziness and moisture-wicking properties are still there.

It’s worth noting that Smartwool also offers their technical Intraknit Merino 200, which breaks down the difference between the 150 here and the 250 above. This performance piece is almost half polyester/elastane (it’s 53 percent merino wool), features flat seams, and is body-mapped with mesh panels throughout for enhanced ventilation. We haven’t had a chance to fully test the Intraknit baselayer yet, but it’s an intriguing option for high-performance activities in cold weather when you want a layer that’s both warm and exceptionally breathable (see a similar alternative here under Zone of Icebreaker). team below). But for balmy summer temps, the Merino 150 is $35 less and probably has all the insulation you need.

See Smartwool Merino 150 Crew for men See Smartwool Merino 150 Crew for women

Most durable base layer

Materials: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 11 ounce.

What we like: Durable enough to be worn as an outer layer.

What we don’t like: Expensive for polyester.

NW Alpine is certainly not a household name, but this small company from Portland, Oregon designs and manufactures alpine climbing apparel on par with the best. Although they only make a handful of items, each of their products is a study in quality over quantity. And their Black Spider Hoody is one of our most popular base layers: it’s comfortable, warm and breathable, with unmatched durability. In fact, we’ve abused ours while climbing for six years – most of the time without a jacket over it – and it hasn’t gotten any holes or tears yet.

Nevertheless, the Black Spider Hoody won’t bring you too many style points: It lacks the odor resistance of merino wool and is only available in a few plain colors. Additionally, $129 is a steep price for a polyester baselayer, and it can often be difficult to find online or in stores in stock. However, the most impressive durability of any base layer we’ve ever worn – combined with features like a helmet-wearable hood and chest zip – set the Black Spider Hoody apart as a highly functional and durable performance piece.

Check out the men’s NW Alpine Black Spider. Check out the NW Alpine Black Spider for women

The best of the rest

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Middleweight

What we like: A soft, stretchy and well-made base layer.

What we don’t like: Expensive for a REI product.

Of all of REI Co-op’s in-house products, the merino base layer is one of our favorites. It’s right on the same playing field as heavyweights like Smartwool and Icebreaker, which is quite an achievement considering these companies specialize in wool layered pieces. Co-op recently updated their Merino Midweight Half-Zip design (200 g/m²) to Merino 185. It loses a bit of warmth due to the thinner construction, but like its predecessor, Merino 185 is soft and has good stretch, and wicks moisture effectively. And most importantly, it can handle everything from backpacking to cross-country skiing with ease.

Unlike many REI products, the Merino 185 Half-Zip doesn’t come at a huge discount, which is why we’re ranking it here. The 185 g/m² thickness is a noticeable drop in warmth over Icebreaker’s popular 200 Oasis Crew, but only $5 less, even though you get a front zip and a higher collar on the REI. And for just $15 more you get the legendary Smartwool 250 above, our top pick, which is a little thicker at 250gsm and a lot warmer. We really like the REI and have only had positive experiences with it so far, but we’re not ready to dethrone the Smartwool just yet.

Check out the REI Merino 185 Half-Zip for men. Check out the REI Merino 185 Half-Zip for women

Materials: 51% Merino Wool, 49% Polyester

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 6.9 ounces.

What we like: Amazing warmth in a tiny package; responsibly sourced wool.

What we don’t like: Expensive; lacks durability.

Patagonia’s Capilene collection runs the gamut from thermal base layers to lightweight tees and long sleeve hiking layers, and the midweight Capilene Air Hoody stands out as one of our favorites in the lineup. Known for being a leader in its commitment to sustainable environmental practices, Patagonia has equipped the Capilene Air with recycled polyester (49 percent), and the end result is a responsibly made and truly innovative piece. With a balaclava-style hood, no-sew construction, and a heat-retaining merino/polyester blend, the Capilene Air offers a tremendous amount of warmth in a relatively thin and light package.

Although the Capilene Air’s polyester makeup theoretically gives it a boost in durability, we developed multiple holes and runs on our hoody in a matter of weeks. Additionally, it’s noticeably wind permeable, and the fabric tends to pill and act as a catcher for hair, lint and more. For all of these reasons, the Capilene Air is best worn under a layer or two, as opposed to a highly durable base layer like the NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody above. But with great odor resistance, impressive wicking and drying properties, and one of the warmest, coziest hoods we know, it’s a fantastic piece against the skin.

Check out the Patagonia Capilene Air for men. Check out the Patagonia Capilene Air for women

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 11.8 ounces.

What we like: Softer against the skin than Smartwool.

What we don’t like: Slim fit and dense weave lags behind on breathability.

Icebreaker’s Oasis Crew is as versatile as any base layer on this list. Made from 100% merino wool, it’s super soft and has a performance fit that’s great for skiing and hiking in cool weather. And because of the clean style and abundance of colors and designs, you can easily wear it as a standalone piece.

If you’re considering the Oasis, it’s a head-to-head matchup with the Smartwool Merino 250 above. Both styles are 100 percent merino wool and the prices are similar (the zip-neck version of the Oasis is $105). Both are comfortable, wick moisture well, and don’t trap odors like synthetics. However, we give the Smartwool a slight edge as the dense weave of the Icebreaker fabric doesn’t expel hot air as efficiently. Despite a lighter fabric weight (200 vs. 250 g/m²), it can feel sweltering when you sweat. On the other hand, the Icebreaker impresses with its softness against the skin, making it a better option for those who prioritize comfort above all else.

Check out the men’s Icebreaker 200 Oasis. Check out the Icebreaker 200 Oasis for women

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Heavyweight

Weight: 1 pound 1.6 ounces.

What we like: Very warm and soft; a great value for an all-merino baselayer.

What we don’t like: It’s not ideal for high-powered activities due to the thickness and cut.

Woolx is a small New York-based company that doesn’t get the hype of Smartwool or Icebreaker, but their chunky Glacier is a cozy and well-built heavyweight baselayer. This 100 percent merino wool piece is much warmer and more durable than the mid-weight and light-weight options on the list. And because it’s merino wool, it’s still soft on the skin and breathes well. We’ve used the Glacier for everything from skiing and snowshoeing to casual use and are very impressed.

Compared to our top heavyweight pick, the Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck, the Woolx Glacier Long Sleeve Crew is significantly thicker and warmer. Unfortunately, Patagonia doesn’t provide a gsm spec for the R1, but the Glacier’s 400 gsm is clearly best suited for the coldest winter days, which can be good or bad depending on intended use. It also costs $30 more than the Patagonia, doesn’t come in a women’s version, and has a decidedly relaxed fit that allows more room for air movement. For hard working in cold temperatures we give the edge to the R1 Air, but the Woolx has its place as a premium wool alternative for less intense activities.

Check out the Woolx Glacier for men

Materials: 52% Merino, 41% Polyester/Nylon, 6% Elastane

Category: Light

Weight: 6.6 ounces.

What we like: The slim fit and excellent ventilation are ideal for active activities.

What we don’t like: Not our first choice for skiing at the ski resort.

Odlo hails from Norway with a range of well thought out base layers designed for a range of activities and conditions. Our favorite for ski touring last winter, our Natural + Kinship Warm blends merino wool with stretchy polyester and nylon for a long sleeve that excels in mild temperatures while building warmth. You get excellent breathability thanks to the shirt’s dedicated ventilation zones, and we’ve found moisture wicking to be top-notch. Additionally, the performance-focused fit is snug yet stretchy, and Odlo has even eliminated seams along the shoulders for comfort when wearing a backpack. To top it off the build quality is excellent with both our tops and bottoms holding up great after a few months of heavy use.

While we love the Natural + Kinship Warm for high-performance activities like backcountry skiing and cross-country skiing, it’s less appealing as a resort baselayer. You can get much warmer with a mid-weight option like the Smartwool Merino 250 above, and many will appreciate a more relaxed fit for lunch or après at the lodge. On the other hand, we’re big fans of the stylish pattern along the torso and sleeves (and it also comes in a half-zip version). Overall, we really like what Odlo has done with Natural + Kinship Warm, making it one of our favorite merino blends here. For warm-weather adventures, Odlo also makes the Kinship Light Crew, which uses soft Tencel fibers (sustainably sourced from wood) instead of wool.

See Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm for men See Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm for women

Materials: 84% Polyester, 16% Elastane

Category: Light/Middleweight

Weight: 7.6 ounces.

What we like: Soft and cozy for a polyester base layer and with a zip pocket.

What we don’t like: Expensive and not versatile as an outer layer.

Arc’teryx places a high value on high performance, which shows in their baselayer collection. Designed to keep you warm for a variety of winter and off-season activities, their Rho series includes the Expeditionweight AR (“All-Round”) model and the LT (“Lightweight”) model. Combining polyester with a generous dose of elastane, the Zip-Neck LT falls into our light and midweight categories, making it an ideal layering piece under a midlayer or shell for low-power activities. We generally prefer merino base layers for their better next-to-skin feel, but the Rho LT features a soft brushed interior, and it doesn’t hurt that its synthetic construction is much more durable than wool.

Arc’teryx paid attention to a few small details with the Rho LT. Underarm gussets and a slightly longer hem increase freedom of movement, and a laminated zip pocket on the chest for men (arm for women) is great for storing small items like lip balm or a credit card. $125 is a steep price for a non-merino base layer (most synthetic options here cost about half that), and the Rho LT’s narrow, technical fit means it doesn’t perform well as a standalone piece. However, you can hardly go wrong with Arc’teryx quality – the Rho is built to last. And if you tend to get cold, or are looking for a winter-ready base layer, the fleece-lined Rho AR packs a heavy dose of insulation and cozy loft at an impressively light weight—nearly half a pound lighter than the all-merino Woolx Top.

Check out the Arc’teryx Rho LT for men. Check out the Arc’teryx Rho LT for women

Materials: 78% Merino Wool, 22% Polyester

Category: Light

Weight: 6.7 ounces.

What we like: The benefits of merino wool plus moisture wicking and durability.

What we don’t like: Expensive for a lightweight base layer.

Black Diamond’s Solution Wool range caused quite a stir when it debuted, particularly for its innovative NuYarn technology. Many manufacturers weave fibers together with merino wool to harness the benefits of both, but NuYarn takes it to the next level by overwrapping nylon with extra-fine merino fibers for a yarn that exudes technical performance to its core. The end result is impressive: compared to a base layer like the Smartwool Merino 150 above, the Solution 150 is noticeably more durable and dries out very quickly when wet (great news for those who tend to sweat).

After wearing the Solution 150 for six days while hiking in Patagonia, we were impressed with how well it held its shape and was odor resistant. Under a loaded pack, the offset shoulder seam was comfortable and mitigated pressure points, and the thumb loops are smooth and well constructed. In fact, our biggest criticism of the Solution 150 is its price – at $135, it’s $50 more than Smartwool’s comparable base layer top (the Merino 150 Crew). But cost aside, the Solution 150 offers solid all-around performance and lasts longer than most merino base layers.

See BD Solution 150 Merino for men See BD Solution 150 Merino for women

Material: 100% merino wool

Category: Light/Middleweight

Weight: 6.9 ounces.

What we like: Great styling and super soft handfeel.

What we don’t like: Expensive and not durable.

Let’s start with the basics: The Ortovox 185 Merino Longsleeve Crew is a standard merino base layer. Similar to top-of-the-line Smartwool, it’s 100% wool, meaning you get uncompromising odor resistance, excellent temperature regulation and a cosy, soft feel. At 185 g/m² it is lighter than the Smartwool 250, which means it is better suited for transitional periods or high-performance activities. However, the thin fabric coupled with the fact that it’s not blended with a synthetic material has us concerned about the Ortovox’s durability (even Smartwool’s 150 shirt is a merino/nylon blend).

But this is where Rock’N’Wool stands out: First, the Ortovox Wool Promise ensures their product comes from ethical and certified sheep farms. And secondly, we just can’t get enough of the Rock’N’Wool’s styling – if you’re looking for a merino baselayer with some flair, the multicolored designs really stand out in the conservative and largely dull baselayer market. The Ortovox 185 is a flashy yet very capable choice for a versatile, breathable next-to-skin layer that takes you straight from skin-track to après.

Check out the Ortovox Rock’N’Wool LS for men. Check out the Ortovox Rock’N’Wool LS for women

Materials: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane

Category: Light

Weight: 6.5 ounces.

What we like: Simple but functional.

What we don’t like: Not super comfortable or powerful.

When it comes to value for money, REI base layers are hard to beat. For $40, the Lightweight Crew offers most of the performance of the pricier options above in a simple but functional design. Additionally, REI took things even further with 8 percent spandex in the construction, giving it a nice, stretchy feel. Along with the matching bottoms, you can buy a full length underwear set for $80 ($25 cheaper than just a Smartwool merino top).

What are the disadvantages of the REI? We’ve found the lightweight model to be good for mild days of skiing, hiking and casual use, but you may not be warm enough in cold temperatures. Note that REI offers a warmer version (the Midweight Crew) for $50. And while the Co-op’s fabric is pleasantly silky, it doesn’t quite match Patagonia’s merino wool or even Capilene for softness and comfort (and it’s even more prone to resist body odor). Those issues aside, the REI Lightweight (or Midweight) Crew is a great way to gear up on a budget this winter.

Check out the men’s REI Lightweight Crew Check out the women’s REI Lightweight Crew

Materials: 97% Merino Wool, 3% Elastane

Category: Middleweight

Weight: 13.7 ounces.

What we like: A warm yet breathable base layer with mesh panels for extra ventilation.

What we don’t like: Not everyone is going to love the slim fit.

For hard work in cold weather, the Icebreaker 260 Zone Crew offers one of the best combinations of warmth and breathability. Utilizing Icebreaker’s BodyFitZone construction, it combines 260-weight merino wool (spun with elastane for durability and stretch) with strategically placed panels of airy merino mesh in moisture-prone areas like the armpits and back. The end result is a temperature-regulating base layer that can shed a lot of heat but still keep you warm where and when you need it.

As we’ve come to expect from Icebreaker, everything about the 260 Zone exudes quality, from the flatlock stitching to eliminate chafing to the well-executed thumb loops. Like the Odlo above, the stretchy 260 has a decidedly snug fit that won’t be for everyone, but adds a nice performance slant. And more importantly, you still get great freedom of movement with gusseted underarms and raglan sleeves, along with a drop tail hem for added coverage around the back. The Smartwool 250 above offers about the same warmth and costs $35 less, but the Icebreaker’s more athletic fit and body-hugging mesh panels give it the edge for truly high-performance use. Both are excellent mid-weight options, and a final decision will depend on your goals and expected uses (casual vs. activewear).

Check out the men’s Icebreaker 260 Zone Crew Check out the women’s Icebreaker 260 Zone Crew

Material: 100% silk fabric

Category: Light

What we like: Cozy and great for layering.

What we don’t like: Lacks the performance of merino or polyester.

Silk can’t compete with merino or polyester for warmth, moisture wicking and durability, but it has its place in the base layer world. Those who value comfort above all else might choose silk for sleeping, camp and other low-powered activities. Additionally, silk is so thin that it can easily be worn under tight-fitting layers without adding bulk. And for just $50, L.L. Bean well made and more durable than most silk options.

We don’t recommend wearing the Silk Underwear Crewneck for high-performance activities – it just doesn’t breathe as well as merino or polyester. In addition, if you want it to last, the shirt should always be covered with an intermediate or outer layer. Ultimately, silk lags behind the aforementioned wool and polyester options in almost every performance category. But if you value comfort above all else and like the feel of silk, the L.L. Bean Crewneck worth a look. For the same price, REI’s Silk Long Underwear Crew Shirt is broadly similar but with a looser fit.

L.L. See Men’s Bean Silk Crew Neck L.L. See Bean Silk Women’s Crew Neck

Baselayer Comparison Chart

Buying guide for base layers

Baselayer Materials

Merino wool

Despite being more expensive than synthetics, merino wool is our recommended base layer material for a number of reasons. It is ultra soft and comfortable, has excellent temperature regulation and is odorless. Admittedly, merino wool base layers are expensive and less durable than their polyester competition, costing roughly twice as much. Take good care of them, however, and you should be able to use them for at least a few seasons. Our top base layer, the Smartwool Merino 250 ¼ Zip, is made from 100% merino wool. For more information on the pros and cons of the material, see our article: Merino Wool: Is It Worth It?

The Smartwool Merino 250 consists of 100 percent merino wool

polyester

As a cost-effective base layer alternative, you can always fall back on polyester. Led by Patagonia’s legendary Capilene line, polyester fabrics can match in terms of moisture wicking and the difference in comfort isn’t far behind. The downside is odor control, which is a focus for many manufacturers. So far, odor-resistant polyesters can’t match the natural benefits of merino wool, but they’re improving. Additionally, polyester fabrics don’t regulate temperatures as well, so it’s more important to match fabric weight to intended use and conditions (more on this below). Despite the disadvantages, polyester fabrics are what we most often recommend to skiers. At around half the price of comparable merino wool, the cost savings are too big to overlook.

mixtures

Deciding between a pure merino or a pure polyester base layer is not that easy. Some performance-oriented brands are experimenting with blends that aim to combine the comfort and performance of merino wool with the durability and moisture wicking of polyester. The Patagonia Capilene Air, for example, weaves together 51 percent merino wool with 49 percent polyester, while Black Diamond’s NuYarn (as seen in the Solution 150 Merino) actually wraps merino fibers around a nylon core and then weaves this manufactured thread with polyester. What these types have in common is that they are some of the most expensive items on this market, so these blends are more about performance than cost savings.

Wearing Capilene Air by Patagonia while ice climbing near Canmore, Alberta

silk

One of the softest, most comfortable base layer fabrics, silk packs an impressive amount of warmth into a lightweight, thin design. But with the increasing demand for temperature-regulating base layers, silk is largely going out of fashion. It simply cannot compete with merino or polyester in terms of moisture transport and turns into a sweat lodge during sweaty activities. In addition, silk is much less durable than polyester and should always be worn under a middle or outer layer to protect against UV rays and abrasion. Finally, it is odorless like merino wool and should be hand washed. We only have one silk option on our list, and for good reason, but it has its merits as a dedicated sleep shirt or extra layer around town.

Important strengths and weaknesses

breathability

The breathability of a base layer depends on a number of factors including fabric type and quality, fabric thickness and openness. In general, lightweight merino wool offers the best breathability, although some premium lightweight synthetics come close. This means that for high-impact activities that make you sweat (think ski touring, cross-country skiing, cycling and climbing) it’s probably worth spending more to buy a higher-performing base layer like the Smartwool Intraknit 200 or Icebreaker 150 zone. Spending less, especially for a thick base layer, will result in less breathability. Whether or not this is a deal-breaker comes down to personal preference and your tendency to overheat.

Merino: Excellent

Mixtures: Excellent

Polyester: Very good

Silk: Not good

Breathability is important for high-performance activities

odor prevention

Merino wool is great at wicking moisture away from your skin, and less sweat means less odor. If you’re going on an extended backcountry trip and don’t want to wear multiple base layers or rinse out every night, Merino wool is the way to go. Some synthetic fabrics are good for odor control, provided you don’t break a sweat. For example, we hiked Patagonia’s Capilene Midweight for a long time in cool weather and were impressed by its odor resistance. But nothing beats merino wool when it comes to keeping you dry and odor-free.

Merino: Very good

Mixtures: Good

Polyester: Not good

Silk: Not good

Get ready to hike in the Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino base layer

durability

This is where the tide changes: merino is super soft but tends to develop small holes over time that eventually affect the product’s performance, while synthetics should last for several seasons. To put this in perspective, we typically get a season or two out of a standard lightweight merino base layer, even from the top brands and by following their washing instructions (cold water and line dry). Granted, these shirts get a lot of use, but that’s still a very short lifespan. But with plastics, a season or two would be on the short end of the spectrum and we’d be hoping for more like three or four.

Some companies are mixing wool and synthetics to add strength to the base layer without sacrificing next-to-skin comfort, which we think is a good idea. We haven’t noticed a huge drop in comfort or performance, but merino/synthetic blends are a step up in durability. However, when wearing a base layer without anything over it, we always go for a fully synthetic piece like the NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody.

Polyester: Excellent

Mixtures: Very good

Merino: Not good

Silk: Not good

Climbing in the extremely durable NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody

warmth

Of all the fabrics we’ve mentioned, merino has the best heat-retaining properties. In general, merino has a better warmth-to-weight ratio than polyester and is also temperature-regulating. The same shirt that keeps you warm in the winter will keep you cool when you sweat against the skin in the off-season. Also, silk is noticeably warm for its thin makeup, but its lack of breathability is a strong disadvantage. It’s also important to consider whether you’re going to be wearing your base layer as an outer layer—while merino wool doesn’t do much to block the wind, some polyester fabrics (like Patagonia’s Capilene) are woven so tightly that they can withstand light gusts. And remember that warmth is also directly related to the thickness of the material, which we discuss in the Insulation Weight section below.

Merino: Excellent

Mixtures: Very good

Polyester: Good

Silk: Good

Merino wool offers excellent warmth

Baselayer Categories: Insulation Weight

Easy

Logically, lightweight base layers are the most breathable, but do the least to keep you warm. This is where merino wool shines – it does an admirable job of temperature regulation for weight and thickness. The thinner the merino wool, the less durable it is. For this reason, most lightweight base layers are made of polyester. These are ideal for early season skiing, bluebird days, and high-performance activities like cross-country skiing and cold-weather running. Resort skiers and winter climbers will likely opt for a warmer and cozier midweight base layer.

medium weight

A medium-weight base layer makes the most sense for a wide variety of conditions. It provides the necessary warmth and is still breathable enough for physical exertion, especially if it is made of high-quality merino or polyester. Mid-weight base layers are the most popular choice for downhill skiers: they’re warm enough for the lift ride, but unlikely to overheat on the descent. They’re less popular as lightweight base layers for hiking or ski touring in moderate conditions, as the added warmth comes with a decrease in the fabric’s ability to regulate temperature (even merino wool can get too hot in warm temperatures). But in chilly spring and fall conditions, a mid-weight base layer can work great as an outer layer and is the ideal next-to-skin layer for cold-weather skiing at the resort.

A mid-weight base layer is a safe bet for most off-season activities

heavyweight

Heavy base layers are specialty items for cold temperatures or when you’re relatively sedentary. The extra thickness inhibits breathability and it’s easy to sweat even on short walks. Remember that you don’t need all the insulation from a single garment, so you can always wear warmer layers over a light or midweight base layer. But for winter mountaineering, extreme cold, or low-powered camp activities, a heavyweight base layer can be the pinnacle of comfort. If you choose to go that route, we love the Woolx Glacier Long Sleeve Crew, a 400gsm all-merino baselayer that still breathes well. Patagonia’s Thermal Weight Capilene can get boggy unless it’s very cold.

Crew neck versus quarter or half zips

Just about every base layer on the market is made in a range of styles including long sleeve crew neck and half/quarter length zip shirts. Many people opt for a crew neck, but there are a number of reasons to consider a zip-up shirt. An advantage is the ability to adapt to changing weather conditions. Zip up for extra warmth at the start of your climb and unzip when you start sweating. And if you want to take off your shirt completely, it’s nice not to have to take off your helmet to do so. Additionally, the extra coverage you get with the raised collar is a nice boost in warmth, and we’ve even found that long sleeves with quarter or half zips have a decent look around town. The downside is that collars can flap around when you open shirts on a run, and a zipper on your skin layer isn’t as comfortable as the cleaner crew style.

Zippered base layers like the Smartwool Merino 250 allow you to regulate temperature better than crew styles

Fit

For optimal performance, base layers must fit snugly. This helps the fabrics most efficiently draw moisture away from your skin. Some people like to wear their base layers for casual use, and then a dedicated performance product like Odlo Natural + Kinship Warm is less useful. The shirt conforms to your body like a performance piece should, but it’s way too tight to wear anywhere else. A product like the REI Co-op Merino 185 Half-Zip is on the other end of the spectrum, with a roomier fit that sacrifices a bit of moisture wicking and breathability. But it’s a great choice for those who prefer a dual-purpose base layer/casual shirt. Ultimately, your decision is a personal one and we recommend evaluating fit based on intended use and style preferences.

Key baselayer features

Baselayers can range from simple, featureless crew tops like the Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew to hooded half-zips with a chest pocket (like the NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody). If you know you’ll be wearing a mid or outer layer over your base layer, the simpler the better. However, if you wear your base layer as an outer layer, you will appreciate the zipped pockets and thumb loops. And climbers and skiers benefit from a tight hood or balaclava that fits under their helmet. In addition, some base layers even have the ability to block the sun’s rays (measured by the UPF value). As usual, it helps to determine what you will be using your baselayer for before determining what features you need.

Thumb loops are handy for keeping sleeves in place

sustainability

The focus on sustainability has increased in the outdoor industry in recent years, and base layers are no exception. There are currently two main trends in this category: responsibly sourced wool and the use of recycled synthetic materials. The former indicates that sheep have been treated humanely and to strict animal welfare and environmental standards (there are a number of certifications including the Responsible Wool Standard and ZQ-certified wool). We’re also seeing more companies using recycled materials, which reduces fossil fuel consumption and the amount of overall plastic produced (Patagonia’s Capilene Midweight is made from 100 percent recycled polyester). All in all, we appreciate their efforts and look forward to seeing more brands on board.

What about baselayer bottoms?

Most of the base layers on this list have a matching base with the same construction and a similar or identical price. For organizational purposes we list the tops here as they are more popular, but the bottoms are readily available and share the same pros and cons. In general, however, maintaining a warm core will do a lot more for the well-being of your entire body than keeping your legs warm. But since there’s no choice – and almost nothing feels cozier than a pair of long johns – we’re also big proponents of baselayer pants.

Functional underpants are particularly important for winter activities

Layer systems: base, middle and outer layers

To get the most out of your technical clothing, it’s important to think of everything as a system. Each piece relies on the layers around it to work well. For example, if you have a base layer that wicks moisture well but wear a solid rubber mid or outer layer, it doesn’t matter how nice your merino fabric is: you’ll still be wet and miserable. So take the time to put together mid and outer layers that perform as well as the base layers listed above.

base layer

Base layers have two main functions: warmth and moisture wicking. Whether it’s made from silk, wool, polyester or a blend, a base layer is made to trap heat from your body while wicking moisture away from the skin. And these two properties work together – keeping the body dry leads to more warmth. Base layers are worn under a mid-layer or shell during the winter months, or as an outer layer for activities such as hiking, biking and climbing during the fall and spring. The thickness and material of your base layer have a big impact on warmth and breathability, so keep that in mind when purchasing.

A warm combination: Patagonia Capilene Air and Arc’teryx Nuclei FL

mid layer

Breathability is paramount for high-performance activities such as hiking, backpacking and climbing. We recommend a fleece or synthetic jacket to balance warmth and ventilation. Top performers include the Arc’teryx Atom LT and Patagonia’s R fleece line. If you only want to grab your insulating layer during downtime, e.g. B. if you’re hanging out at camp after the sun goes down, consider a warm and super packable down jacket. Skiing is a similar story, and conditions will dictate the best mid-layer for you. Options range from a puffy down jacket to a lightweight fleece.

Outer Layers

Outer layers are the most specialized part of the system, and their complex designs can get quite expensive. A waterproof, breathable and packable rain jacket is required for activities such as climbing and hiking/backpacking. Winter conditions are much harsher, so durability is a priority when it comes to ski jackets. Their designs offer more pockets to stash gear or personal items and a longer fit to protect you from snow sneaking through. There are also hard shell jackets that blur the lines and mix the weight of a rain jacket with the performance (and added expense) of a ski jacket.

Back to our top baselayer picks Back to our baselayer comparison chart

What is the best base layer material for cold weather?

Merino Wool: The other more common type, a merino wool base layer is made of a gentler type of wool that’s less irritating to the skin. It excels at regulating body temperature, so it’s great for insanely cold weather but won’t have you overheating when things start warming up.

Sew Your Own Activewear Book – SEWRENDIPITY

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The IT nerds from Moosejaw

What is Capilene made of?

The newest addition to Patagonia’s Capilene lineup, Capilene Air baselayers are made with a blend of recycled polyester and merino wool. The combination of natural wool and recycled materials give Capilene Air baselayers a soft next-to-skin feel, natural stretch, and anti-odor properties.

Sew Your Own Activewear Book – SEWRENDIPITY

Patagonia Capilene fabric is used to make some of the best and most well-known technical base layers in the industry. The synthetic polyester fabric forms the basis for every layering system and can be adapted to countless sports. All of Patagonia’s Capilene base layers are bluesign certified, which means Patagonia follows a set of policies aimed at reducing waste and promoting the sustainability of its products. Regardless of weight, the Capilene line also offers a contemporary and consistent fit, utilizing anti-odor technologies to combat odors built up after several days of skiing or outdoor activities.

Jans has carried Patagonia Capilene products since they were released to the outdoor market. And while other brands’ base layers are competitive, Capilene base layers hold a special place in our hearts. Our pros have been using these technical base layers for years, and for many of us, they’re the only ones we’ll reach for. So what is Patagonia Capilene and what do the different weights mean?

Capilene air

Capilene Air Baselayers are the latest addition to Patagonia’s Capilene range and are made from a blend of recycled polyester and merino wool. The combination of natural wool and recycled materials gives the Capilene Air Baselayers a soft feel against the skin, natural stretch and odor control properties. Capilene Air products keep you warm even when wet and have a seamless construction to avoid uncomfortable chafing.

Capilene Cool

A newer addition to the Capilene range, Capilene Cool products are extremely versatile and can be worn for everything from everyday wear to mountain biking to fly fishing. Like all Capilene products, Cool fabrics are bluesign certified and made from recycled materials. Many also have miDori bioSoft fabric softener for a soft, comfortable feel. Some of our favorite Capilene Cool products here at Jans are the Cool Daily Hoody, the Cool Lightweight Women’s Shirt and the Cool Trail Bike Henley.

Capilene middleweight

When you’re not sure where your next adventure might take you, reach for the Capilene Midweight Baselayer. These are Patagonia’s most versatile base layers as they are ideal for mild to cold temperatures. They’re stretchy, wick moisture, dry quickly and compress easily. You could easily take them anywhere. These mid-weight men’s Capilene bottoms make a great first layer for skiing, hiking or climbing all winter long.

Capilene Thermal Weight

Your coldest days on the hill call for Patagonia’s Capilene Thermal Baselayers. Still soft and stretchy, these base layers are made with Polartec Power Grid fabric for exceptional breathability and thermal properties. They also feature HeiQ Fresh technology to keep the fabric odor-free after multiple days of wear.

By: Paul Boyle, Marketing Specialist

Additional links:

Shop all of Patagonia

Shop all women’s base layers

Shop all men’s base layers

*This post was updated on May 14, 2020

How to understand sewing patterns (for beginners!)

How to understand sewing patterns (for beginners!)
How to understand sewing patterns (for beginners!)


See some more details on the topic base layer sewing pattern here:

Sewing patterns for thermal clothing – Jalie

Shop sewing patterns // Thermal Layer. Choosing the right underwear (base layer) is essential to stay warm and comfortable in the outdoors.

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Source: jalie.com

Date Published: 4/9/2021

View: 375

Base Layer Fabric Guide

“Base layer” is the chic word for underwear in the world of outdoor clothing.

This is the first layer on your skin and can make all the difference when you’re out on your adventures. The fabric you use should keep you dry and warm and allow you to retain all your flexibility. Base layers are made from many types of fabrics such as merino wool, polyester, cotton, polyamide and bamboo. Below is a basic guide to getting started with base laminates. The final fabric you use depends on your adventures and your preferences.

This chart can help you with the basics of choosing the right base laminate for your adventure.

Sewing patterns for thermal clothing

Shop Patterns // Thermal Layer

Choosing the right underwear (base layer) is essential to staying warm and comfortable outdoors. Enjoy playing outside when it’s cold by wearing comfortable underwear.

Sew Your Own Activewear Book – SEWRENDIPITY

Dear readers, I started running last week! And I made my own sportswear. Well, there are two things you wouldn’t have caught me saying — or trying, for that matter. In both cases it was easier than I thought. It was just a matter of finding the right person to hold my hand. And in both cases I found exactly that.

Running, it’s this lady called Laura (not even sure if that’s her real name) who is the voice behind the NHS’ Couch to 5k programme. I don’t know who she is, but she must be some kind of miracle worker to get me going. Dear readers, I am the opposite of a fitness bunny, I used to not like any form of exercise at all. Now, I’m not saying I’m a fitness addict, but I get off the couch and do the program (week one so far) every other day. I even wake up at silly hours to get it done before I go to work.

Well I don’t know about your weather but 6am in the UK in February is pretty chilly. So you need something to keep the cold out.

This is where Melissa from FehrTrade comes into play. Melissa has long been the activewear queen. Well she kind of has to, she runs marathons and all that, plus she’s representing the UK in the World Transplant Games so she needs quite a lot of gear. In late January she released her book, Sew Your Own Activewear, in which she shares all her knowledge with anyone who wants to do the same – make their own gear, which means not running marathons (although I’m sure she will). also have one or the other tip for this).

I was invited to join the blog tour to review the book I also chose to do as a project – a winter singlet – so both apply here.

Book review on sewing your own activewear

The book is a little different than what I regularly see in sewing books. The main concept is that instead of having ready-made patterns to copy, you get four blocks (tight-fitting tops and bottoms and loose-fitting tops and bottoms) that you can adjust to your liking. The book gives you a number of ideas (15 patterns) but the possibilities for customization are truly endless.

Melissa also offers many tips and tricks for sewing sportswear on a regular sewing machine or with an overlock or coverstitch machine. As a veteran athlete, Melissa also offers plenty of advice on how to test your new creation, because the proof is in the pudding, or, well, 5K, so to speak.

Instructions are illustrated in detail and Melissa will guide you through every step, from designing customizations to sewing and finishing.

The book included measurements in both metric and imperial, and Melissa, who is from the US, put American terminology in parentheses (e.g. serger/overlocker).

One thing I would have liked more of is notches, specifically the double notches for sleeves. I was a little confused putting the sleeves together as there is only 1 notch instead of the usual 2 for the back and 1 for the front.

All in all, this book is pretty much all you need to break the defeatist stance and just get started!

Take a look inside the book. You can buy your copy here on Amazon.

That

Disclaimer: I pre-ordered and paid for the book during GBSB Live last year and was then sent a free PDF copy for review purposes. Melissa is a personal friend.

sample

For my project from the book, I chose the winter underwear project. The main reason for this choice was that this year I’m really trying to sew my stash rather than buying new fabric and I really didn’t have anything in my stash remotely reminiscent of activewear fabric. Lycra, what are these words I hear you say? I originally wanted to do the hoodie (check out Melissa’s amazing version) as I fell in love with the sample at GBSB Live last year. And I actually traced and made all the adjustments for this pattern AND cut my fabric. Then I realized that a) I didn’t have enough fabric and b) it was really too thin for the hoodie. So I went back to the drawing board – literally.

I realized that my fabric (more on that in a moment) was actually much better suited as a base layer to keep me warm while running or hill walking or any other active activity I may choose to do in the future. I would also have liked a little more fit.

So I chose the winter baselayer. I think the girl with hot chocolate and marshmallows might have something to do with it.

This design is based on the fitted bodice and features contrasting rings on the shoulders which are lovely and thumb cuffs. I skipped the thumb cuffs as I didn’t think I’d actually need them, but it’s a good pattern piece to have handy for other projects.

material

Like I said, I was dying to buy the stock for this one. So I used a microfleece I bought in Abakhan when I was visiting my friend Simona from Sewing Adventures in the Attic last November. I didn’t have a specific project in mind when I got it, so I was happy to find a good use for it.

However, it still wasn’t enough (even less now that I’d hacked it for an entirely different pattern). I had to take an emergency trip to Goldhawk Rd. which luckily is fairly close to my home and work. Surprise surprise no one had microfleece similar to mine (I actually picked up a sample), or even regular fleece, shock horror! So I had to get creative and got this red soft shell, with scuba on the right side and fleece on the back. I love this fabric and maybe I could use more in the future but at the moment I was very reluctant and only got 1m as it was 1.2m wide and I wanted to be sure.

Modifications & Fit

I made absolutely no changes other than what the instructions asked for and I think the fit is pretty good. I cut a size S based on finished measurements and it was spot on. I would probably take the shoulders down a tiny bit and maybe remove a half inch from the armpit area. But nothing that bothers me too much at the moment.

I left out the cuff piece but would add it for next time.

Tips for changing the pattern

The instructions for changing the pattern are pretty straightforward in the book, but I wanted to give you a few tips on how to make the circles a little faster. NB: The blocks don’t include SA so make sure to add your desired SA when you copy out the block, otherwise you might forget it when you make the edits and cut out.

So at this point I copied the front and back pieces. To make the circles, I traced the top parts to the shorten/extend line. That way I would preserve my original.

I then traced a line from the edge according to instructions. Melissa recommends 3 cm, but make sure to add your SA to that (0.5 cm /1/4 inch in my case, up to a total of 3.5 cm from the edge). This would be the stitch line between the first and second circles (I called them A and B). I marked that in red. Then I measured 1.4 inches (my chosen SA) both above and below that line. The bottom line is the cutting line of the first circle (piece A). I’ve traced the outline of this piece in a different color, let’s say black. Then I copied it out. This will be my 1A (or 4B for the back) piece. Don’t forget to mark a notch between the two pieces (1 for the front and 2 for the back when you get to it). This will come in handy during assembly.

Then I traced another line 5 cm from the first stitch line I marked in red. This will be the stitch line between pieces B and C (second circle and the rest of the top). I then also traced 1/4″ SA above and below this line. I have the piece between the bottom line of stitch line 2 (between B and C) and the line above the first of stitch line (between A and B) in say marked in green.Then I also tracked this piece.

Lastly I cut out piece C on the line above the stitch line between B and C. You don’t have to copy this one, you’ve already traced it, just remove what you don’t need. Don’t forget to add the grainline to each piece.

Repeat exactly the same for the back, making sure to measure the exact same distances. It’s a good idea to line up the front and back circles to ensure they line up perfectly when reassembling. You can also check that everything works by superimposing pieces A, B and C on the stitch line and placing them on top of the main front and back pattern piece.

PS Sorry if the switch between in and cm is a bit confusing. I use an inch ruler to add seam allowances as it’s easier to see the lines (and I just love this particular one) but usually think in centimeters. So I work in a mixed economy most of the time.

construction

The setup is really easy. I neatened all the seams and neatened the hems with the coverstitch machine. Make sure you baste the layers, especially when connecting all the circles and especially if they are contrast fabric. I didn’t do it and it slipped in a couple of places.

I had to cut a bit of Tetris because I was reusing the pattern pieces I had already cut out for the hoodie. So I ended up with a back center seam that doesn’t match the pattern. I also had to add an extra 4 cm at the bottom of the back pieces, but this isn’t visible as it was folded in the hem.

I was particularly pleased with how well the neckband came together, the pattern was just the right length and it went in very easily.

style & wear

As you can see, I took off my base layers immediately after completion to take advantage of a nice day and take the pictures outside. Despite the sunshine it was refreshing so I tried it the hard way. It kept me warm really well and I’m sure it would work even better with more layers to keep the wind at bay. Here are a few pictures of it in action.

And a picture with my down body warmer. Properly roasted!

Verdict

It definitely wasn’t as hard as I thought! Once the pattern changes were made, it was a really easy and fun craft to make. I’m super happy with how it turned out despite some misalignment and fit adjustments and it will definitely come in handy for a trip to the Scottish Highlands we are planning for Easter!

Winner!

Detailed review:

Sewing Pattern: Sew Own Activewear Book, by Melissa Fehr – Winter Base Layer, size S

Fabric: Microfleece by Abakhan, Softshell by Goldhawk Rd.

Changes: none

Next time: reduce CB by 1/4”, reduce side seam under arm by 1/4”.

HAVE YOU MANUFACTURED ACTIVEWEAR? WOULD YOU LIKE TO? TELL ME IN THE COMMENTS OR TWEET OR IG ME @SEWRENDIPITY!

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