Battery Hydrometer Floating Balls? 300 Most Correct Answers

This article was co-authored by Bess Ruff, MA. Bess Ruff is a graduate student in geography at Florida State University. She received her MA in Environmental Science and Management from the University of California, Santa Barbara in 2016. She has performed survey work for marine spatial planning projects in the Caribbean and provided research support as a graduate fellow for the Sustainable Fisheries Group. This article has been viewed 173,936 times.

Article overview

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To read a hydrometer, pour a sample of the fluid you want to test into a clean, clear container. Lower the hydrometer into the liquid and stir gently, but make sure it does not touch the sides of the container. Read the hydrometer scale at the lowest point on the liquid surface. The most common scale on hydrometers is specific gravity, where pure water measures 1,000. If you get a higher value, your liquid is heavier than water, and if you get a lower value, it’s lighter. Read on for tips from our reviewer on reading Plato, Balling, or Brix scales.

CHAPTER 12

GENERAL SHOP INSTRUCTIONS

CHARGE BATTERIES

The equipment for charging batteries, instructions for building and wiring charging banks have already been given. What we are going to discuss now is the actual loading. The charge that a battery receives on the charging bank is called “bank charge”. Charging batteries at the service station can be divided into two general classes: 1. Charging batteries that are dead but are otherwise in good condition and do not require repair. 2. Charging batteries during or after the repair process. The second type of charging is actually part of the repair process and is described in the Battery Rebuilding chapter. Charging a battery always consists of sending a direct current through it, with the current entering the battery at the positive terminal and leaving it at the negative terminal, the charging current of course flowing in the opposite direction to the current that passes through the battery when the battery produces unloading When a battery discharges, chemical changes take place that generate electrical energy. When charging a battery, the charging current causes chemical changes opposite to those occurring during discharging, putting the active materials and electrolyte in such a state that the battery serves as a power source when replaced in the car. Batteries are charged not only in a workshop, but also in workshops that mount cars and in car dealerships. Regardless of where a battery is charged, however, the same steps must be taken and the same precautions observed. When a bench charge is required: (a) When a battery is discharged because the car’s alternator has insufficient power, or because of a lot of night driving, or because the starter is used frequently, or because of the car owner’s negligence. (b) Batteries used in cars or trucks without a generator, or batteries used for radio work, should of course be charged periodically on the bank. (c) When the specific gravity readings of all cells are less than 1.200 and these readings are within 50 points of each other. Should a cell’s gravity reading be 50 points lower or higher than the other cells, it is best to perform a 15-second rapid discharge test (see page 266) to determine if the cell is defective or if the electrolyte was defective due to a flood lost due to overfilling and replaced with water or a higher gravity electrolyte. If there is any defect during the high speed test, the battery should be opened for inspection. If no defect occurs, charge the battery. (d) When the lamps burn dimly while the engine is running. (e) If the lamps become very dim when the start switch is closed. When testing a battery by turning on the lights and then closing the starter switch, make sure there is no short or ground in the starter motor circuits. Such problems cause a very large current to be drawn from the battery, resulting in battery voltage drop. (f) When the battery voltage has fallen below 1.7 volts per cell, measured with all lights on. (g) If the owner has neglected to add water to the cells regularly and the electrolyte has fallen below the top of the plates. (h) If a battery has been doped by the addition of electrolyte or acid instead of water, or if any of the “dope” electrolytes advertised to charge old, worn out batteries in a ridiculously short time and show life and Performance like a new battery. Only use a mixture of distilled water and sulfuric acid as the electrolyte. Not only are the “dope” solutions worthless, they will severely damage a battery and shorten its lifespan. Such a “doped” battery can give high gravity* readings, and yet the lamps will be very dim when the starter cranks the car, the voltage per cell will be low when the lights are on, or low voltage readings (1.50 per cell ) is obtained when a high-rate discharge test is performed. Any battery that arrives for whatever reason, or any battery that is charged on the dyno when needed, should also be inspected for other defects, such as a poor seal between the covers and glasses or covers and jambs. Slight leakage of electrolyte through cracks or imperfect connections between the lids and jars or lids and posts is very common without causing significant problems. However, if any of the other issues are found, the battery will need to be repaired. Arrangement of the batteries on the charging bank. If a battery arrives dirty, place it on the dish rack or in the sink and give it a thorough cleaning before charging. When you place the batteries on the charging bench, place them all so that the positive pole is on the right when you face the bench. The positive terminal may be painted red or stamped “+”, “P” or “POS”. If the markings on one connector are scratched or worn, examine the other connector. The negative pole can be painted black or stamped “-“, “N” or “NEG”. If no terminal is marked, polarity can be determined with a voltmeter or by a cadmium test. To perform the voltmeter test, place the meter wires against the battery terminals or the terminals of one of the end cells. When the voltmeter pointer moves to the right of the “0” line on the scale, the wire attached to the meter “+” terminal is touching the positive battery terminal and the wire attached to the meter “-” terminal is touching the negative terminal touches the battery. If this test is performed using a gauge with the “0” line in the middle of the scale, make sure you know whether you want the pointer to move to the left or right of the “0” line when the wire at the “+” meter terminal is touching the positive terminal of the battery. Another method of determining the positive terminal of the battery is the cadmium test. If a reading of about two volts is obtained, the pin held to one of the cell terminals is touching the positive terminal. If a Nearly zero reading is reached, that is, when the meter’s needle is barely moving from the “0” line, or when it is not moving at all, the tip held on one of the cell terminals is touching the negative terminal performed with the battery open circuit is not an ordinary cadmium test, it is only used to determine the polarity of the battery.The polarity of the charging line is always known if the bank ver is wired. The positive charging cable should always be on the right. If a separate switch is used for each battery (Figures 43 and 65), the wire attached to the right side of the switch is positive. If the batteries are jumpered together (Figures 44 and 47), the positive charge lead should be on the right end of the bank as you face the bank. If a constant potential charging circuit is used as shown in Figure 48, the positive bus bar should be on top, the neutral conductor should be in the middle and the negative pole should be on the bottom. If the polarity of the charge lead wires is not known, it can be determined with a voltmeter in the same way that the polarity of the battery is determined. If this happens, care should be taken to use a meter with a range sufficient to measure line voltage. If no such voltmeter is available, a simple test is to fill a beaker with weak electrolyte or salt water and insert two wires attached to the lead. The ends of these wires should, of course, be bare for an inch or more. Keep these wires about an inch apart with the line alive. Numerous fine gas bubbles collect around the negative wire. Knowing the polarities of all the batteries, arrange them so that all the positive poles are to the right. Then connect them to each switch (see Figure 43) or connect them to jumpers (see Figure 44), making sure to connect the negative terminal of one battery to the positive terminal of the next. Connect the positive charging lead to the positive terminal of the first battery and the negative lead to the negative terminal of the last battery. See page 105. When all connections are made and before you start charging, go through all the batteries very carefully again. You can’t be too careful when checking the connections because if one or more batteries are connected incorrectly, they will be charged in the wrong direction and will most likely be badly damaged. As a final check of the connections of the batteries in the line, measure the total voltage of those batteries and see if the reading is equal to twice the total number of cells in the line. Now check the electrolyte in each cell. If it’s low, add distilled water to bring the electrolyte half an inch above the plates. Don’t wait for a battery to charge before adding water. Do it now. Do not fill with so much water that the electrolyte comes over the bottom of the vent tube. This will cause flooding. Load, rate. When connecting different sized batteries on a circuit, charge at the usual rate for the smallest battery. If the rate used is the normal one for the larger batteries, the smaller batteries will overheat and “cook” to death, or they can gas so violently that a significant portion of the active material is blown off the plates. It is perfectly possible to charge 6 and 12 volt batteries in series. The important point is not to have the total number of cells too high. For example, if the 10 battery Tungar is used, ten 6 volt (30 cell) batteries or any combination that gives 30 cells or fewer can be used. For example, five 12 volt (30 cell) batteries, or six 6 volt (18 cell) batteries and two 12 volt (12 cell) batteries, or any other combination for a total of 30 cells can be used. The same applies to motor generators. The charging tariff is usually determined by the size of the charging facility. The ten battery Tungar should never increase its output above 6 amps. A charging capacity of 6 amperes is suitable for all but the smallest batteries. Whether or not you’re sure about what charge rate to use or not, there are two things that will guide you, temperature and gassing. 1. Temperature. Obtain a battery thermometer (Figure 37) and measure the temperature of the electrolyte of each cell on the line. If you find that a particular cell is running hotter than the others, leave the thermometer in that cell and watch the temperature. Do not allow the temperature to rise above 110 degrees Fahrenheit except for a very short period of time. If the maximum cell temperature rises above 110 degrees, reduce the charging speed. 2. Gasification. Towards the end of a charge and when the specific gravity is no longer increasing or is increasing only very slowly, gas bubbles rise from the electrolyte, which is due to the charging current breaking down the water in the electrolyte into hydrogen and oxygen. If this gassing is too vigorous, a significant amount of active material will be blown off the plates. Therefore, when this gas formation begins, the charge rate should be reduced unless the entire charge was made at a low rate, say about five amps. If gassing begins in a cell shortly after charging begins or before the specific gravity peaks, slow down the charge rate to eliminate the gassing. If a battery or cell has a high temperature and the others do not gas or start gassing long before the others, remove that battery from the charging line for further investigation and replace it with another, so as not to slow down the charging of other batteries, that work normally. As long as excessive temperatures and early gassing are avoided, virtually any rate of charge can be used, especially at takeoff. With a constant potential charging set, as shown in Figure 48, charging can begin at a rate of up to 50 amps. With this charging system, you have to pay very close attention to the temperature and watch out for gas formation. With the usual series charging, 20 amperes or more can be charged in an emergency. In general, do not use more than 10 amps of current. A current of five amps is even better, but it takes longer to charge. Time required for one charge. The time required is not determined by the clock, but by the battery. Continue loading until each cell gasses freely (not violently) and for five hours after the specific gravity has stopped increasing. The average condition of the batteries brought to charge allows them to be fully charged in about 48 hours, the time being determined as indicated above. Some batteries can be fully charged in less time and some take four days to a week depending on the condition of the batteries. Don’t promise when a battery will be ready for charging. No one can tell how long it will take to charge. Specific gravity at the end of the load. The specific gravity of the electrolyte in a fully charged cell should be between 1.280 and 1.300. If it varies more than 10 points above or below these values, adjust it by siphoning off some electrolyte with a hydrometer and adding water to decrease density or 1,400 acid to increase density. After adjusting the gravity charge for another hour. Battery voltage at the end of charging. The voltage of a fully charged cell is 2.5 to 2.7 when the temperature of the electrolyte is 80 degrees Fahrenheit; 2.4 to 2.6 when the temperature of the electrolyte is 100 degrees Fahrenheit and 2.35 to 2.55 volts when the temperature of the electrolyte is 120 degrees Fahrenheit and this. Voltage along with hydrometer readings of 1.280-1.300 indicate the battery is fully charged. Immediately before operating a charged battery, perform a 15-second rapid discharge test, see page 266. Painting. Before returning a battery to the owner, wipe it thoroughly clean and dry. Then wipe the covers, terminals, connectors, and handles with a rag dampened with ammonia. Next, give the case a light coat of black paint, which can be made by mixing lampblack and shellac. This paint dries in about five minutes and gives a good shine. The customer may not believe that you will return the battery they brought in, but they will certainly be satisfied with your service and will feel that if you put so much effort into the outside of their battery, you treat the inside with the same care when repairs are necessary. The light coat of paint costs very little for a battery but can get you many dollars in work. electrolyte level. During charging, the electrolyte expands and generally flows onto the covers. This does not have to be wiped off until the end of the charge. When the electrolyte has cooled after removing the battery, it should be about 1/2 inch above the plates. As long as the electrolyte is still warm, it stands higher, but should not be lowered by pulling it off, otherwise it will get under the top edge of the plates and separators when it cools down.

PROBLEMS

If everything goes well, the loading process will proceed as described in the previous paragraphs. However, it often happens that things don’t go well and problems arise. Such problems generally consist of the following: The specific gravity does not increase to 1.280. This may be due to the plates not being fully charged or because water was used to replace spilled electrolyte. To determine which of these conditions exist, perform a cadmium test (see page 174) on the positive and negative terminals and also measure the voltage of each cell. If these tests show that the plates are fully charged (cell voltage 2.5 to 2.7, positive cadmium 2.4 volts, negative cadmium minus 0.15 to 0.20 volts), you know there is not enough acid is in the electrolyte. Then the old electrolyte is emptied, refilled with 1,300 electrolyte and charging continues until the specific gravity is constant. It may then be necessary to make some adjustments, subtracting some of the electrolyte with a hydrometer and adding water to decrease gravity or 1,400 acid to increase it. Remember that specific gravity readings tell nothing about the plates unless the electrolyte is known to contain the correct proportions of water and acid. The cadmium test is the test that tells you directly if the plates are charged or not and charging a battery is about charging the plates and not just bringing the specific gravity to 1.280. Of course, if the specific gravity doesn’t rise to 1.280 and cadmium tests show the plates aren’t getting a full charge, then the battery is somehow defective. If the battery is old, the negatives are likely to be somewhat granulated, the positives are likely to have lost much of their active material, resulting in a significant amount of sediment in the jars, and the separators are worn, charred, or clogged with sediment. Such a battery should not be expected to perform as well as a new one. If the tests show that the battery is more than half charged, it is best to put it back in the car and carefully explain to the owner why his battery is not “opening up” and telling him that he will need a new battery soon . Remember that improperly handled separators or defective separators will result in poor negative cadmium readings being obtained. If a fairly new battery cannot be fully charged, as indicated by hydrometer readings and cadmium testing, then problems have arisen due to neglect, abuse, or manufacturing defects. If all cells of a fairly new battery do not fully charge within 48 hours, the battery has likely been abused, either by not adding water regularly or by leaving the battery in an undercharged state. Such a battery should remain on the grid for a few more days and if it still cannot be fully charged then the owner should be informed of the condition of the battery and instructed to open it for inspection. If a cell of a battery is not accepting a charge, but the other cells are being satisfactorily charged and cadmium tests show that the plates of that cell are not accepting a charge, the cell should be opened for inspection. If one cell of a battery is slowly charging, disconnect the other cells from the line and charge the weak cell in series with the other batteries on the charging line. If all cells in a battery, new or old, cannot handle even half a charge, as indicated by the hydrometer reading (1,200), the battery should be opened for inspection. If gravity. a charged battery begins to rise well before the voltage rises, and when gravity rises above 1,300 there is too much acid in the electrolyte. The remedy is to drain the electrolyte, refill with pure water and continue charging at a lower rate than before until the specific gravity stops increasing. Then charge for ten hours longer, drain the water (which has now become electrolyte due to the acid formed by the charging current), refill approx. 1,350 electrolyte and continue charging, at the end of the charge balance out the gravity if necessary. If a battery gets very hot during charging, which is usually not too high for the battery, this indicates that the battery is heavily sulphated or has a partial short circuit. Gassing is generally associated with the high temperature. If you notice a vinegary odor rising from the vent holes, you can be absolutely certain that the separators used in this battery have evolved acetic acid because they have not received the necessary treatment to prepare them for use in the battery. The electrolyte should be drained from such a battery immediately and the battery should be filled with water and rinsed several times. Then, without wasting time, the battery should be opened to see if removing the separators and washing the plates thoroughly can save the plates. However, if the acetic acid is present for a longer period of time, the plates are irreparably damaged and the lead parts are dissolved by the acid. If the electrolyte in a charged battery has a white, milky appearance, impurities may be present, causing the formation of numerous tiny bubbles that give the electrolyte its milky appearance. The milky appearance may be due to the use of “hard” water when refilling, this water contains scale. The electrolyte, as seen with the acid of an electric lamp or flashlight, should be perfectly clear and colorless. Every foam, every particle of dirt, every color shows that the electrolyte is contaminated. To do this, the electrolyte must be emptied, filled with pure water and rinsed, new electrolyte refilled and the battery reconnected to the charging line. Of course, this can lead to the battery not being charged satisfactorily, which may be due to the problems already described. Should it ever happen that it is impossible to get a current through a charging circuit, check all the connections to make sure you are making good contact at each battery post and that there are no loose connections between cells. If all connections to the batteries are good and there are no loose intercell connectors, switch off one battery at a time until the current flows when you switch off a specific battery. This battery should then be opened without further testing as it is undoubtedly in poor condition. The conditions that may exist when a battery fails to charge, as cadmium tests in particular have shown, are as follows: (a) The battery may have been left in a discharged state, or the owner may have neglected to top up with water, with the result that the electrolyte did not cover the plates. In both cases a significant amount of crystallized sulphate will have built up in the plates. Plates in such a condition require about a week’s charge at a low cost, and then need to be discharged and recharged. Several such charging and discharging cycles may be required. It may even be impossible to charge such a battery, no matter how many charge and discharge cycles are given. If the owner admits that their battery has been neglected and has been idle for a long time, get their permission to open the battery. (b) The battery may have overheated due to charging at too high a rate or being placed in a car in a sulphated state. The normal charging rate of the car alternator will overheat a sulphated battery. Overheated plates bend, their bottom edges cutting through the separators, causing a short circuit between the plates. (c) The pockets in the bottom of the vessels may be filled with sediment and the sediment may short out the plates. (d) Contaminants may have attacked the plates and converted the active materials into other non-battery forming substances. Such panels can be so badly damaged that they become brittle and crumble. Acetic acid from improperly handled separators dissolves lead very quickly and can even cause an open circuit in the cell. (e) The conditions described in (a), (b) and (c) allow a charging current to flow through the battery, but the plates are not charged. It is of course possible, but not likely, for a condition to exist in which all the plates of one or both groups of a cell are broken from the tie bands, or the ties between cells are not in contact with the posts. In such a case, it would be impossible to send a charging current through the battery. Acetic acid from improperly treated separators and organics introduced from the use of impure water when refilling will attack the lead of the plates, particularly on the top surface of the electrolyte, and can loosen any plate tabs from the connection tabs and open circuit. (f) The separators may be sodden and somewhat charred and blackened or clogged with sulphate and the battery may need new separators. (g) The spongy line may be bulged, or the positives may be kinked. The active material then does not make good contact with the grids and the charging current cannot get to the sulphate at all and convert it into active material. The remedy in such a case is to press the negatives to force the active material back into the grids and insert new positives if severely bent. (h) One of the numerous “dope” electrolytes offered to the trusting car owner may have been infused into the battery. Such “dopes” can damage the records very badly. Tell your customers to avoid such “dope”. The conditions which may exist when the plates of a battery are being charged, as indicated by cadmium tests, but the gravity does not reach 1,280, are as follows: (a) There may be considerable sediment in the vessels, but not enough to make short to be circuit of the plates. If the battery has ever been in a sulphated state and overcharged, the resulting gas formation has caused sulphate fragments to fall to the bottom of the jars. In the formation of this sulphate some of the acid has been removed from the electrolyte and if the sulphate falls off the plates this amount of acid cannot be recovered no matter how long the charge is continued. If the owner tells you that their battery has been sitting idle for several months at some point, that’s a condition that may be present. Remedy: wash and press negatives, wash positives, insert new separators, pour out old electrolyte and wash out the glasses, fill in 1,400 acid and charge the battery. (b) Impurities may have consumed some of the acid that cannot be recovered by charging. If the plates are not badly damaged, the remedy is the same as in (a). Damaged panels may need to be replaced. (c) Electrolyte may have been accidentally spilled and replaced with water. (d) Too much water may have been added so that the expansion of the electrolyte caused the overflow due to a temperature rise during charging. Of course, this meant that part of the acid was lost. The causes in (c) and (d) may have resulted in the top of the battery case being etched or rotted. In both of these cases, this can be remedied by draining some electrolyte, topping up with approx. 1,400 acid and continuing to charge. If plates and separators look good and there is little sediment, this is the way to go. When the battery does not hold a charge. If a battery charges properly but loses its charge in a week or less, as indicated by specific gravity, the following problems may be present: (a) Contamination in the cells due to the use of impure water in the electrolyte or in the Delimiter. Some impurities (see page 76) do not attack the plates, but only cause them to self-discharge. The remedy is to empty the old electrolyte, rinse the jars with pure water, fill with new electrolyte of the same density as the old one, and recharge. If this does not remove contaminants, the battery should be opened, the plates washed, the glasses cleaned, new separators put in, and the battery reassembled and charged. (b) Aufgrund defekter Abscheider oder übermäßiger Sedimentmengen kann es zu einem langsamen Kurzschluss kommen. Wenn die vorläufige Behandlung in (a) nicht dazu führt, dass die Batterie die Ladung hält, beseitigt das Öffnen der Batterie und die anschließende Behandlung die Ursache des langsamen Kurzschlusses.

suggestions

1. Stellen Sie sicher, dass jede Batterie ordnungsgemäß gekennzeichnet ist, bevor Sie sie online schalten. 2. Bestimmen Sie so schnell wie möglich von Tag zu Tag, welche Batterien nicht geladen werden. Rufen Sie den Besitzer an und holen Sie sich die Erlaubnis, eine solche Batterie zu öffnen und alles Notwendige zu tun, um sie in einen guten Zustand zu versetzen. 3. Sobald eine Batterie auf 1,280-1,300 geladen wird, beträgt die Spannung 2,5-2,7 pro Zelle und die Cadmium-Messwerte betragen 2,4 oder mehr für die positiven und -0,15 bis -0,20 für die negativen und die Gravitationsspannung und die Cadmium-Messwerte nicht fünf Stunden wechseln, nach Fertigstellung aus der Leitung nehmen und wenn möglich durch eine andere ersetzen. Gehen Sie mindestens dreimal am Tag über Ihre Linie und machen Sie Schwerkraft-, Temperatur- und Cadmiumtests. 4. Notieren Sie jeden Morgen mit Kreide die Schwerkraft jeder Zelle. Vertraue nicht auf die Erinnerung. 5. Batterie mit undichten Zellen so schnell wie möglich aus der Leitung entfernen und ausgelaufene Säure mit Soda neutralisieren. 6. Batterien, die schlampig sind, mit faulen Gehäusen und ohne Griffe sind krank und brauchen einen Arzt. Gehen Sie dem Besitzer nach und holen Sie sich die Erlaubnis zur Reparatur. 7. Halten Sie die Bank ordentlich und sauber. 8. Denken Sie daran, dass Sie Geld verlieren, wenn Sie eine Leitung nur teilweise voll haben und andere Batterien darauf warten, aufgeladen zu werden, wenn Sie keine volle Leitung halten. 9. Lassen Sie die Entlüftungsstopfen beim Laden drin. Die Atmosphäre in vielen Tankstellen, wo die Belüftung schlecht ist, ist so voller Säuredämpfe, dass Kunden dagegen sind, dort Geschäfte zu machen. Die Besitzer dieser Orte werden diese Bedingungen vielleicht nicht bemerken, weil sie daran gewöhnt sind, oder sich vielmehr darüber rühmen, solche Luft ohne Husten oder Würgen atmen zu können, aber es lädt einen Kunden sicherlich nicht zum Verweilen und Ausgeben seines Geldes ein. Die Abhilfe für einen solchen Zustand besteht darin, die Entlüftungsstopfen an den zu ladenden Batterien an Ort und Stelle zu lassen, damit der Säurenebel im Gas der Batterie beim Auftreffen auf diese Stopfen auskondensiert und in die Zellen zurücktropft, während das Gas entweicht durch die kleinen Öffnungen im Stecker. Die Stopfen müssen nur um eine Umdrehung in die Öffnungen geschraubt oder nur auf die Entlüftungsöffnungen gesetzt werden, um das Ergebnis zu erzielen. Das kostet keine zusätzliche Zeit und macht sich mehr als bezahlt durch die Einsparung verrosteter Werkzeuge und verbesserte Bedingungen im Batterieraum und in der Umgebung. Achten Sie beim Laden alter Exide-Batterien darauf, die Entlüftungsstopfen wieder einzusetzen und sie zu drehen, um die Luftkanäle zu öffnen, die das Entweichen von Gasen ermöglichen, die sich unter den Abdeckungen bilden. Wenn Sie diese Luftkanäle offen halten möchten, ohne die Stopfen auszutauschen, was der Einfachheit halber möglich ist, drehen Sie das Ventil (siehe Seite 21) mit einem Schraubendreher oder einem anderen Werkzeug um eine Vierteldrehung. 10. Wenn der Elektrolyt aus einer Batterie aufsteigt, bis er über die Oberseite des Gefäßes fließt, zeigt dies, dass zu viel Wasser hinzugefügt wurde, als die Batterie aufgeladen wurde, das Wasser auf den Boden des Entlüftungsrohrs steigt und dadurch die Bildung von Gasen verhindert (außer denen direkt unter dem Entlüftungsloch) vor dem Entweichen. Dieses Gas sammelt sich unter den Abdeckungen und sein Druck drückt den Elektrolyten nach oben in das Entlüftungsloch und über die Oberseite der Batterie. Beim Aufladen alter U.S.L. batteries it is especially necessary to keep the air vent (see page 20) open to prevent flooding, since the lower end of the vent tube is normally a little below the surface of the electrolyte. Remember, do not have the electrolyte come up to the lower end of the vent tube. NOTE: To obtain satisfactory negative cadmium readings, the charging rate should be high enough to give a cell voltage of 2.5-2.7. Improperly treated separators, or separators which have been allowed to become partly dry at any time will make it impossible to obtain satisfactory negative cadmium readings.

LEAD BURNING (WELDING)

Lead cannot be “burned” in the sense that it bursts into flame as a piece of paper does when a match is applied to it. If sufficient heat is applied, the lead will oxidize and feather away into a yellow looking dust, but it does not burn. The experienced battery man knows that by “lead burning” is meant the heating of lead to its melting point, so that two lead surfaces will weld together. This is a welding and not a “burning” process, and much confusion would be avoided if the term “lead welding” were used in place of the term “lead burning.” The purpose of welding lead surfaces together is to obtain a joint which offers very little resistance to the flow of current, it being absolutely necessary to have as low a resistance as possible in the starting circuit. Welding also makes joints which are strong mechanically and which cannot corrode or become loose as bolted connections do. Some earlier types of starting and lighting batteries had inter-cell connectors which were bolted to the posts, but these are no longer used. The different kinds of lead-burning outfits are listed on page 143 The oxygen-acetylene and the oxygen-hydrogen flames give extremely high temperatures and enable you to work fast. Where city gas is available, the oxygen illuminating gas combination will give a very good flame which is softer than the oxygen acetylene, oxygen-hydrogen outfits. Acetylene and compressed air is another good combination. There are two general classes of lead-welding: (a) Welding connecting bars, called “cell” connectors, top connectors, or simply “connectors,” to the posts which project up through the cell covers, and welding terminals to the end posts of a battery. (b) Welding plates to “straps” to form groups. The straps, of course, have joined to them the posts which project through the cell covers and by means of which cells are connected together, and connections made to the electrical system of the car. In addition to the above, there are other processes in which a burning (welding) flame is used: (c) Post-building, or building posts, which have been drilled or cut short, up to their original size. (d) Extending plate lug. If the lug which connects a plate to the plate strap is too short, due to being broken, or cut too short, the lug may be extended by melting lead into a suitable iron form placed around the lug. (e) Making temporary charging connections between cells by lightly -welding lead strips to the posts so as to connect the cells together. (f) A lead-burning (welding) flame is also used to dry out the channel in cell covers before pouring in the sealing compound, in re-melting sealing compound which has already been poured, so as to assure a perfect joint between the compound cover and jar, and to give the compound a smooth glossy finish. These processes are not welding processes and -will not be described here.

General Lead Burning Instructions

Flame. With all the lead burning outfits, it is possible to adjust the pressures of the gases so as to get extremely hot, medium, and soft flames. With the oxygen-acetylene, or oxygen-hydrogen flame, each gas should have a pressure of about two pounds. With the oxygen-illuminating gas flame, the oxygen should have ,a pressure of 8 to 10 pounds. The city gas then does not need to have its pressure increased by means of a pump, the normal pressure (6 to 8 ounces) being satisfactory. Various makes of lead-burning outfits are on the market, and the repairman should choose the one which he likes best; since they all give good results. All such outfits have means of regulating the pressures of the gases used. With some the gases are run close to the burning tip before being mixed, and have an adjusting screw where the gases mix. Others have a Y shaped mixing valve at some distance from the burning tip, as shown in Figure 78. Still others have separate regulating valves for each gas line. With these adjustments for varying the gas pressure, extremely hot, hissing flames, or soft flames may be obtained. For the different welding jobs, the following flames are suitable: 1. A sharp, hissing flame, having a very high temperature is the one most suitable for the first stage in welding terminals and connectors to the posts. 2. A medium flame with less of a hiss is suitable for welding plates to strips and lengthening plate lugs. 3. A soft flame which is just beginning to hiss is best for the finishing of the weld between the posts and terminals or connectors. This sort of a flame is also used for finishing a sealing job, drying out the cover channels before sealing, and so on. In adjusting the burning- flame, 4 the oxygen is turned off entirely, a smoky yellow flame is obtained. Such a flame gives but little heat. As the oxygen is gradually turned on the flame becomes less smoky and begins to assume a blue tinge. It will also be noticed that a sort of a greenish cone forms in the center portion of the flame, with the base of the cone at the torch and the tip pointed away from the torch. At first this inner-cone is long and of almost the same color as the outer portion of the flame. As the oxygen pressure is increased, this center cone becomes shorter and of a more vivid color, and its tip begins to whip about. When the flame is at its highest temperature it will produce a hissing sound and the inner cone will be short and bright. With a softer flame, which has a temperature suitable for welding plates to a strap, the inner cone will be longer and less vivid, and the hissing will be greatly diminished. The temperature of the different parts of the flame varies considerably, the hottest part being just beyond the end of the inner cone. Experience with the particular welding outfit used will soon show how far the tip of the torch should be held from the lead to be melted. Cleanliness. Lead surfaces which are to be welded together must be absolutely free from dirt. Lead and dirt will not mix, and the dirt will float on top of the lead. Therefore, before trying to do any lead welding, clean the surfaces which are to be joined. -The upper ends of plate lugs may be cleaned with a flat file, knife., or wire brush. The posts and inter-cell connectors should be cleaned with a knife, steel wire brush, or triangular scraper. Do not clean the surfaces and then wait a long time before doing the lead burning. The lead may begin to oxidize if this is done and make it difficult to do a good job. The surfaces which are to be welded together should also be dry. If there is a small hole in the top of a post which is to be welded to a connector or terminal, and this hole contains acid, a shower of hot lead may be thrown up by the acid, with possible injury to the operator. Do not try to save time by attempting to weld dirty or wet lead surfaces, because time cannot be saved by doing so, and you run the risk of being injured if hot lead is thrown into your face. Remove absolutely every speck of dirt, –you will soon learn that it is the only way to do a good job. Safety Precautions. Remove the vent plugs and blow down through the vent holes to remove any gases which may have collected above the surface of the electrolyte. An explosion may result if this is not done. To protect the rubber covers, you may cover the whole top of the battery except the part at which the welding is to be done, with a large piece of burlap or a towel which has been soaked in water. The parts covered by the cloth must be dried thoroughly if any welding on them. Instead of using a wet cloth, a strip of asbestos may be laid over the vent holes, or a small square of asbestos may be laid over each vent hole.

Burning on the Cell Connectors and Terminals

Have the posts perfectly clean and free from acid. Clean the tops, bottoms and sides of the connectors with a wire brush, Figure 143. Finish the top surfaces with a coarse file, Figure 144. With a pocket knife clean the inside surfaces of the connector holes.

Place the connectors and terminals in their proper positions on the posts, and with a short length of a two by two, two by one, or two by four wood pound them snugly in position, Figure 145. Be sure that the connectors are perfectly level and that the connectors are in the correct position as required on the car on which the battery is to be used. The top of the post should not come flush with the top of the connector. Note, from Figure 146, that the connector has a double taper, and that the lower tapered surface is not welded to the post. If the post has been built up too high it should be cut down with a pair of end cutting nippers so that the entire length of the upper taper in the connector is in plain sight when the connector is put in position on the post. This is shown in Figure 146. With the connectors in place, and before welding them to the posts, measure the voltage of the whole battery to be sure that the cells are properly connected, as shown by the voltage reading being equal to two times the number of cells. If one cell has been reversed, as shown by a lower voltage reading now is the time to correct the mistake.

The connectors and terminals are now ready to be welded to the posts. Before bringing any flame near the battery be sure that you have blown out any gas which may have collected under the covers. Then cover the vents with asbestos or a wet cloth. as, already described. You will need strips of burning lead, such as those made in the burning lead mould described on page 164. Use a hot, hissing flame for the first stage. With the flame properly adjusted, hold it straight above the post, and do not run it across the top of the battery. Now bring the flame straight down over the center of the post, holding it so that the end of the inner cone of the flame is a short distance above the post. When the center of the post begins to melt, move the flame outward with a circular motion to gradually melt the whole top of the post, and to melt the inner surface of the hole in the connector. Then bring the lower end of your burning lead strip close to and over the center of the hole, and melt in the lead, being sure to keep the top of the post and the inner surface of the hole in the connector melted so that the lead you are melting in will flow together and unite. Melt in lead until it comes up flush with the upper surface of the connector. Then remove the flame. This completes the first stage of the welding process. Now repeat the above operation for each post and terminal. It is essential that the top of the post and the inner surface of the hole in the connector be kept melted as long as you are running in lead from the strip of burning lead. This is necessary to have all parts fuse together thoroughly. If you allow the top of the post, or the inner surface of the hole in the connector to chill slightly while you are feeding in the lead, the parts will not fuse, and the resuilt will be a poor Joint, which will heat up and possibly reduce the current obtained from the battery when the starting switch is closed. This reduction may prevent the starting motor from developing sufficient torque to crank the engine. When the joint cools, the lead will shrink slightly over the center of the posts. To finish the welding, this lead is to be built up flush or slightly higher than the connector. Brush the tops of the post and connector thoroughly with a wire brush to remove any dirt which may have been floating in the lead. (Dirt always floats on top of the lead.) Soften the burning flame so that it is just barely beginning to hiss. Bring the flame down over the center of the post. When this begins to melt, move the flame outward with a circular motion until the whole top of post and connector begins to melt and fuse. If necessary run in some lead from the burning lead strip. When the post and connector are fused, clear to the outer edge of the connector, raise the flame straight up from the work.

You will save time by doing the first stage of the burning on all posts first, and then finish all of them. This is quicker than trying to complete both stages of burning on each post before going to the next post. The object in the finishing stage is to melt a thin layer of the top of post and connector, not melting deep enough to have the outer edge of the connector melt and allow the lead to run off. All this must be done carefully and dexterously to do a first-class job, and you must keep the flame moving around over the top and not hold it in any one place for ally length of time, so as not to melt too deep, or to melt the outer edge and allow the lead to run off and spoil the job. Sometimes the whole mass becomes too hot and the top cannot be made smooth with the flame. If this occurs wait until the connector cools, soften the flame, and try again. Figure 147 shows the welding completed.

Burning Plates to Strap and Post

First clean all the surfaces which are to be welded together. Take your time in doing this because you cannot weld dirty surfaces together. Plates which compose a group are welded to a “strap” to which a post is attached, as shown in Figure 5. The straps shown in Figure 5 are new ones, as made in the factory. Plate lugs are set in the notches in the straps and each one burned in separately. In using old straps from a defective group, it is best to cut the strap close to the post, thus separating all the plates from the post in one operation, as was done with tile post shown in Figure 96. If only one or two plates are to be burned on, they are broken or cut off and slots cut in the strap to receive the lugs of tile new plates, as shown in Figures 148 and 149.

Set the plates in a plate burning rack, as shown in Figure 96, placing the adjustable form around the lugs and strap as shown in this figure. Be sure to set the post straight, so that the covers will fit. A good thing is to try a cover over the post to see that the post is set up properly. The post must, of course, be perpendicular to the tops of the plates. If the slotted plate strap shown in Figure 5 is used, or if one or two plates have been cut off, melt the top of the lug of one of the plates which are to be burned oil, and the surfaces of the strap to which the plate is to be welded. Melt in lead from a burning-lead strip to bring the metal up flush with the surface of the strap. Proceed with each plate which is to be burned on. If all the plates have been sawed from the strap, leaving the post with a short section of the strap attached, as shown in Figure 96, melt the edge of the strap, and the top of one or two of the end plate lugs and run in lead from the burning strip to make a good joint. Proceed in this way until all the lugs are joined to the strap and then run the flame over the top of the entire strap to make a smooth uniform weld. Be sure to have the lower edge of the strap fuse with the plate lugs and then run in lead to build the strap up to the proper thickness. Raise the flame occasionally to see that all parts are fusing thoroughly and to prevent too rapid heating. When enough lead has been run in to build the strap tip to the correct thickness and the plate lugs are thoroughly fused with the strap, raise the flame straight up from the work. Allow the lead to “set” and then remove the adjustable form and lift the group from the burning rack. Turn the group up-side-down and examine the bottom of the strap for lead which ran down the lugs during the welding process. Cut off any such lead with a saw, as it may cause a short-circuit when the plates are meshed with the other group.

Post Building

In drilling down through the inter-cell connectors to separate them from the posts in opening a battery, the posts may be drilled too short. In reassembling the battery it is then necessary to build the posts up to their original height. This is done with the aid of post-builders, shown in Figure 100. Clean the stub of the post thoroughly and also clean the inside of the post builder. Then set the post builder carefully over the stub post, so that the upper surface of the post builder is parallel to the upper surface of the plate strap. The built up post will then be perpendicular to the surface of the strap, which is necessary, in order to have the covers and connectors fit properly. With the post builder set properly adjust the burning torch to get a sharp, hissing flame. Bring the flame straight down on the center of the post stub. When the center of the post stub begins to melt, move the flame outward with a circular motion until the whole top of the stub begins to melt. Then run in lead from a burning lead strip, Figure 101, at the same time keeping the flame moving around on the top of the post to insure a good weld. In this way build up the post until. the lead comes up to the top of the post builder. Then lift the flame straight up from the post. Allow the lead to set, and then remove the post builder, grasping it with a pair of gas or combination pliers and turn the post builder around to loosen it.

Extending Plate Lugs

It sometimes happens that a good plate is broken from a strap, thus shortening the lug. Before the plate may be used again, the lug must be extended to its original length. To do this, clean the surfaces of the lug carefully, lay the plate on a sheet of asbestos, and place an iron form having a slot of the correct width, length, and thickness, as shown in Figure 150. Use a medium hissing flame, and melt the upper edge of the lug, and then run in lead from the lead burning strip to fill the slot in the iron form. The plate may then be used again.

Making Temporary Charging Connections

After a battery has been opened it is often desired to charge a battery without burning on the intercell connectors. Temporary connections may be made between cells by placing a short length of a burning lead strip from post to post and applying a flame for an instant to spot-weld the strip to the top of the post.

MOULDING LEAD PARTS

In using special moulds for casting inter-cell connectors, plate straps with posts, terminals, etc., follow the special instructions furnished by the manufacturers as to the manipulation of the special moulds made by them. Aside from the special instructions for the use of moulds, there are general rules for the melting of lead and handling it after it is melted, which must be observed if good castings are to be made. Raw Materials. In every battery repair shop a supply of old terminals, cell connectors, posts, and straps, will gradually accumulate. These should not be thrown away or sold as junk, but should be kept in a box or jar provided for that purpose. Old plates should not be saved, since the amount of lead in the grid is small and it is often covered with sulphate. The lugs connecting the plates to the straps may, however, be used. Before using the scrap lead as much dirt as possible should be brushed off, and all moisture must be dried off thoroughly. Scrap lead contains some antimony, which is metal used to give stiffness to tile parts. Using miscellaneous scrap sometimes gives castings which do not contain the proper percentage of antimony. If there is too much antimony present, cracked castings will be the result. To remedy this condition, bars of pure lead should be purchased from some lead manufacturing company. Adding pure lead will reduce the percentage of antimony. Bars of pure antimony should also be kept oil hand in case the castings are too soft. Lead Melting Pots are standard articles which may be purchased from jobbers. A pot having a 25 pound capacity is suitable for small shops and for larger shops a 125-pound size is best. Before melting any lead in such pots, have them thoroughly free from dirt, grease, or moisture, not merely in order to get clean castings, but also to avoid melted lead being thrown out of the pot on account of the presence of moisture. Severe burns may be the result of carelessness in this respect. In starting with an empty melting pot, turn oil the heat before putting in any lead, and let the pot become thoroughly heated in order to drive off any moisture. With the pot thoroughly hot, drop in the lead, which must also be dry. When the metal has become soft enough to stir with a clean pine stick, skim off the dirt and dross which collects on top and continue heating the lead until it is slightly yellow oil top. Dirt and lead do not mix, and the dirt rises to the top of the metal where it may readily be skimmed off. With a paddle or ladle, drop in a cleaning compound of equal parts of powdered rosin, borax, and flower of sulphur. Use a teaspoonful of this compound for each ten pounds of metal, and be sure that the compound is absolutely dry. Stir the metal a little, and if it is at the proper temperature, there will be a flare, flash, or a little burning. A sort of tinfoil popcorn effect will be noticed oil top of the lead. Stir until this melts down. Have the ladle with which you dip up the melted lead quite dry. When dipping up some of the lead, skim back the dark skin which forms oil top of the lead and dip up the clean bright lead for pouring. In throwing additional lead into a pot which is partly filled with melted lead, be sure that the lead which is thrown in the pot is dry, or else hot lead may be spattered in your face. Have the moulds clean and dry. The parts with which the lead comes into contact should be dusted with a mould compound which fills in the rough spots in the metal so that the flow of lead will not be obstructed, and the lead will fill the mould quickly. Dip tip enough lead to fill the part of the mould you use. When you once start pouring do not, under any circumstance, stop pouring until the lead has completely filled the mould. Lead cools very quickly after it is poured into the mould, and if you stop pouring even for all instant, you will have a worthless casting. In a shop having an ordinary room temperature, it is generally unnecessary to heat the moulds before making up a number of castings. If it is found, however, that the first castings are defective due to the cold mould chilling the lead, the mould should be heated with a soft flame. After a few castings have been made, the mould will become hot enough so that there will be no danger of the castings becoming chilled. When the castings have cooled sufficiently to be removed, strike the mould a few blows with a wooden mallet or a rawhide hammer to loosen, the castings before opening the mould. The castings may then be removed with a screwdriver. Cracked castings indicate that the mould was opened before the castings had cooled sufficiently, or that there is too much antimony in the castings. The remedy is to let the castings cool for a longer time, or to add pure lead to the melting pot.

HANDLING AND MIXING ACID

The electrolyte used in the battery is made by mixing chemically pure concentrated Sulphuric Acid with chemically pure water. The concentrated acid, or “full strength” acid cannot be -used, not only because it would destroy the plates, but also because water is needed for the chemical actions which take place as a cell charges and discharges. The water therefore serves, not only to dilute the acid, but also to make possible the chemical reactions of charge and discharge. The full strength acid has a specific gravity of 1.835, and is mixed with the water to obtain the lower specific gravity which is necessary in the battery. The simplest scheme is to use only 1.400 specific gravity acid. This acid is used in adjusting the specific gravity of a battery on charge in case the specific gravity fails to rise to a high enough value. It is also used in filling batteries that have been repaired. Acid is received from the manufacturer in ten gallon glass bottles enclosed in wooden boxes, these being called “carboys.” Distilled water comes in similar bottles. When distilled in the shop, the water should be collected in bottles also, although smaller ones may be used. Neither the acid nor the water should ever be placed in any vessels but those made of lead, glass, porcelain, rubber, or glazed earthenware. Lead cups, tanks, and funnels may be used in handling electrolyte, but the electrolyte must not be put in containers made of any metal except lead. Lead is rather expensive for making such containers, and the glass bottles, porcelain, rubber, or glazed earthenware may be used. In mixing acid with water, pour the water in the bottle, pitcher. or jar, and then add the acid to the water very slowly. Do not pour the acid in quickly, as the mixture will become very hot, and may throw spray in your face and eyes and cause severe burns. Never add the water to the acid, as this might cause an explosion and burn your face and eyes seriously. Stir the mixture thoroughly with a wooden paddle while adding the acid. A graduate, such as is used in photography, is very useful in measuring out the quantities of acid and water. The graduate may be obtained in any size up to 64 ounces, or two quarts. In using the graduate for measuring both acid and water, be sure to use the following table giving the parts of water by volume. Although the graduate is marked in ounces, it is for ounces of water only. If, for instance, the graduate were filled to the 8 ounce mark with acid, there would be more than eight ounces of acid in the graduate because the acid is heavier than the water. But if the proportions of acid and water are taken by volume, the graduate may be used. A convenient method in making up electrolyte, is to have a16 ounce graduate for the acid, and a 32 or 64 ounce graduate for the water. In the larger graduate pour the water up to the correct mark. In the 16 ounce graduate, pour 1.400 acid up to the 10 ounce mark. Then add the acid directly to the water in the graduate, or else pour the water into a bottle or pitcher, and add the acid to that. For instance, if we have a 32 ounce graduate, and wish to make up some 1.280 acid, we fill this graduate with water up to the 5-1/2 ounce mark. We then fill the 16 ounce graduate with 1.400 acid up to the 10 ounce mark. Then we slowly pour the 1.400 acid into the graduate containing the water, giving us 1.280 acid. In a similar manner other specific gravities are obtained, using the same amount of 1.400 acid in each case, but varying the amount of water according to the figures given in the last column of the next to the last table. The following table shows the number of parts of distilled water to one part of 1.400 specific gravity electrolyte to prepare electrolyte of various specific gravities. The specific gravity of the mixture must be taken when the temperature of the mixture is 70° F. If its temperature varies more than 5 degrees above or below 70°F, make the corrections described on page 65 to find what the specific gravity would be if the temperature were 70° F.

BY WEIGHT

For 1.300 specific gravity use 5 ounces of distilled water for each pound of 1.400 electrolyte. For 1.280 specific gravity use 6-1/2 ounces of distilled water for each pound of 1.400 electrolyte. For 1.275 specific gravity use 6-3/4 ounces distilled water for each pound of 1.400 electrolyte. For 1.260 specific gravity use 7-1/2 ounces distilled water for each pound of 1.400 electrolyte.

BY VOLUME

For 1.300 specific gravity use 3-1/2 pints distilled water for each gallon of 1.400 electrolyte. For 1.280 specific gravity use 4-1/2 pints distilled water for each gallon of 1.400 electrolyte. For 1.275 specific gravity use 5 pints distilled water for each gallon of 1.400 electrolyte. For 1.260 specific gravity use 5-1/4 pints distilled water for each gallon of 1.400 electrolyte. In case you wish to use other measuring- units than those given in the above table, this table may be written as follows, giving the number of parts distilled water to 10 parts of 1.400 specific gravity electrolyte:

Specific Gravity Desired Parts by Weight Parts by Volume 1.300 3 4-1/4 1.280 4 5-1/4 1.275 4-1/6 6 1.260 4-7/10 6-1/2

The next table gives the number of parts of distilled water to 10 parts of concentrated sulphuric acid (which has a specific gravity of 1.835) to prepare electrolyte of various specific gravities:

Specific Gravity Desired Parts by Weight Parts by Volume 1.400 8-1/2 15-8/10 1.300 13-1/2 25 1.280 15 27 1.270 16 28 1.260 17 30

PUTTING NEW BATTERIES INTO SERVICE

New batteries are received (a) fully charged and ready for service, (b) fully assembled with moistened plates and separators, but without electrolyte, (c) in a “knockdown” condition, with dry plates and without separators, (d) fully assembled with “bone dry” plates and rubber separators, and without electrolyte. Those received fully charged should be put on a car as soon as possible. Otherwise they will grow old on the shelf. Every month on the shelf is a month less of life. If the battery cannot be sold, put it into dry-storage. Batteries received in condition (b) should not be kept in stock for more than six months. Batteries received with dry plates and without separators or with rubber separators may be stored indefinitely without deteriorating.

Batteries Shipped Fully Charged, or “Wet.” All Makes

Unpack the battery, keeping the packing case right side up to avoid spilling electrolyte. Brush off all excelsior and dirt, and examine the battery carefully to see if it has been damaged during shipment. If any damage has been done, claim should be made against the express or railroad company. 1. Remove the vent caps from the cells and determine the height of the electrolyte. It should stand from three-eighths to one-half inch above the tops of the plates. The level may be determined with a glass tube, as shown in Fig. 30. If the electrolyte is below the tops of the plates, it has either been spilled, or else there is a leaky jar. If all cells have a low level of electrolyte, it is probable that the electrolyte has been spilled. 2. Next measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte of each cell with the hydrometer, and then add water to bring the electrolyte up to the correct level, if this is necessary. Should the temperature of the air be below freezing, charge the battery for an hour if water is added no matter what the specific gravity readings are. This will cause the water to mix thoroughly with the electrolyte. If the battery were not charged after water is added, the water, being lighter than the electrolyte, would remain on top and freeze. For this one hour charge, use the “starting” rate, as stamped on the nameplate. 3. If the specific gravity of the electrolyte reads below 1.250, charge the battery until the specific gravity reads between 1.280 and 1.300. For this charge use the normal bench charging rates. 4. After this charge place the battery on a clean, dry spot for twenty-four hours as an extra test for a leaky jar. If there is any dampness under the battery, or on the lower part of the battery case, a leaky jar is indicated. An inspection of the level of the electrolyte, which even though no dampness shows, will show the leaky jar. 5. Just before putting the battery on the car, make the high rate discharge test on it. See page 266.

BATTERIES SHIPPED “DRY”

Exide Batteries

Storing. 1. Keep the battery in a dry, clean place, and keep the room temperature above 32 degrees, and below 110 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Put the battery into service before the expiration of the time limit given on the tag attached to the battery. The process of putting the battery into service will require about five days. 3. If the battery has been allowed to stand beyond the time limit, open up one of the cells just before beginning the process necessary to put the battery into service. If the separators are found to be cracked, split, or warped, throw away all the separators from all the cells and put in new ones. If the separators are in good condition, reassemble the cell and put the battery into service. Putting Battery into Service. 1. Fill the cells with electrolyte of the correct specific gravity. To do this, remove the vent plugs and pour in the electrolyte until it rises to the bottom of the vent tubes. The correct specific gravities of the electrolyte to be used are as follows: (a) For Types DX, XC, XE, XX and XXV, use 1.360 electrolyte. In tropical countries use 1.260 electrolyte. (b) For Types LX, LXR, LXRE, LXRV, use 1.340 electrolyte. In tropical countries use 1.260 electrolyte. (c) For Types MHA and PHC, use 1.320 electrolyte. In tropical countries use 1.260 electrolyte. (d) For Types KXD and KZ, use 1.300 electrolyte. In tropical countries use 1.240 electrolyte. 2. After filling with the electrolyte, allow the battery to stand ten to fifteen hours before starting the initial charge. This gives the electrolyte time to cool. 3. No sooner than ten to fifteen hours after filling the battery with electrolyte, add water to bring the electrolyte up to the bottom of the vent tubes, if the level has fallen. Replace the vent caps and turn them to the right. Start charging at the rates shown in the following table. Continue charging at this rate for at least 96 hours (4 days).

Table of Initial and Repair Charging Rates

TYPE AND SIZE OF CELL Charging Rate- Amperes Minimum Ampere Hours KZ-3 1/2 50 LX-5, LXR-5, LXRE-5 1-1/2 145 KXD-5 2 190 XC-9, XX-9 2-1/2 240 DX-11, KXD-7, LXR-9, LXRE-9, XC-11, XE-11 3 290 DX-13, KXD-9, LXR-11, XC-13, XE-13, XX-13 4 385 LXR-13, LXRE-13, XC-15, XE-15, XX-15 4-1/2 430 KXD-11, XC-17, XE-17 5 480 LXRV-15, LXR-15, LXRE-15 5-1/2 525 LX-17, LXR-17, LXRE-17, XC-19, XE-19, XXV-19 6 575 MHA-11, PHC-13 6 575 XC-21, XE-21 6-1/2 625 XC-23 7 675 XC-25 7-1/2 720 4. Occasionally measure the temperature of the electrolyte. Do not allow the temperature to rise above 110° Fahrenheit (120° Fahrenheit in tropical countries). Should the temperature reach 110°, stop the charge long enough to allow the temperature to drop below 100°. 5. At the end of the charge, the specific gravity of the electrolyte should be between 1.280 and 1.300 (1.210 and 1.230 in tropical countries). If it is not between these limits adjust it by drawing off some of the electrolyte with the hydrometer and replacing with water if the specific gravity is too high, or with electrolyte of the same specific gravity used in filling the battery, if the specific gravity is too low. 6. Wipe off the top and sides of the battery case with a rag dampened with ammonia to neutralize any electrolyte which may have been spilled. 7. Just before putting the battery into service, give it a high rate discharge test. See page 266.

Vesta Batteries

1. Remove vent caps from each cell and fill with electrolyte of 1.300 specific gravity. This electrolyte should not have a temperature greater than 75° Fahrenheit when added to the cells. 2. After the addition of this acid, the battery will begin to heat and it should be left standing from 12 to 24 hours or until it has cooled off. 3. Battery should then be put on charge at the finish charging rate stamped on the name plate. Continue charging at this rate for approximately 48 to 72 hours or until the gravity and voltage readings of each cell stop rising. 4. Care should be taken to see that the temperature of battery does not rise above 110° Fahrenheit. If this occurs., the charging rate should be cut down. 5. The acid in each cell will undoubtedly have to be equalized. 6. At the finish of this developing charge the gravity should read 1.280 in each cell. If below this, equalize by putting in 1.400 specific gravity acid, or if the contrary is the case and the acid is above 1.280 add sufficient distilled water until the gravity reads 1.280. 7. After the acid has been equalized and it has stopped rising in density the voltage of each cell while still on charge at the finishing rate should read at least 2.5 volts per cell or better. 8. The battery is then ready for service. Just before putting battery into service, make a high rate discharge test on it. See page 266.

Philadelphia Diamond Grid Batteries

1. Remove the vent plugs and immediately fill the cells With electrolyte until the level is even with the bottom of the vent tube in the cover. Do not fill with electrolyte whose temperature is above 90° Fahrenheit. The specific gravity of the electrolyte to be used in starting batteries varies with the number of plates in each cell, the correct values being as follows:

Charging Rates

Fill batteries listed in Table No. 1 with 1. 270 sp. GR. acid.

TABLE -NO. 1

No. of Plates LL-LLR and LH LM LMR LT LTR LS LSR LG ST LSF 9 2.0 2.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 11 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 4.0 13 3.0 3.5 3.0 4.0 2.5 15 3.5 4.0 3.5 4.5 5.5 17 4.0 5.0 4.0 5.5 6.0 19 4.5 5.5 4.5 6.0

Special Battery: 136 USA…………….6. 0 amps.

TABLE N0.2

No. of Plates LL-LLR and LLH LM LMR LT LTR LS LSR S SH ST LSF 5 1.0 1.0 2.0 1.5 7 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.0 3.0 2.0 1.5 9 4.0 11 5.0 Special Batteries: 330 AA…………. 1. 0 amps. 524 STD-H2 ………… 1. 0 amps. 7 6 SPN ………… 1. 5 amps. The number of plates per cell is; indicated in the first numeral of the type name. For instance, 712 LLA-1 is a 7 plate LL. For all lighting batteries, types S and ST. use 1.210 electrolyte. 2. Allow the battery to stand for one or two hours. 3. Remove the seal from the top of the vent caps, and open by blowing through the cap. 4. Insert vent plugs in the vent tubes. 5. Put the battery on charge at the rate given in the table on page 228. To determine the rate to use, see type name given on the battery nameplate and find correct rate in the table. Keep the battery charging at this rate throughout the charge. 6. Continue the charge until the battery voltage and the specific gravity of the electrolyte stop rising, as shown by readings taken every four hours. From three and one-half to four days of continuous charging will be required to fully charge the battery. 7. Watch the temperature of the electrolyte, and do not allow it to rise above 110° Fahrenheit. If the temperature rises to 110° F., stop the charge and allow battery to cool. Extend the time of charging by the length of time required for the battery to cool. 8. After the specific gravity of the electrolyte stops rising, adjust the electrolyte to a specific gravity of 1.280 at a temperature of 70° Fahrenheit. If the temperature is not 70°, make temperature corrections as described on page 65. 9. The battery is now ready to be installed on the car. Just before installing the battery, make a high rate discharge test on it.

Willard Bone-Dry Batteries

A Willard Threaded Rubber insulated battery is shipped and carried in stock “bone-dry.” It is filled with electrolyte and charged for the first time when being made ready for delivery. Threaded Rubber Insulated Batteries received bone-dry must be prepared for service, as follows: 1. Mix electrolyte to a density of 1.275. 2. Remove the vent plugs and fill to the top of the vent hole with 1.275 electrolyte. Be sure that the electrolyte is thoroughly mixed by stirring and that its temperature is not above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. 3. A portion of the solution will be absorbed by the plates and insulation because they have been standing dry without In-\ liquid in the cells. The volume is thus decreased, necessitating the addition of electrolyte after first filling. Wait five minutes and then again fill to the top of the vent hole with 1.275 electrolyte. 4. The battery must now stand at least twelve hours and not more than twenty-four hours before charging,. After it has been filled an increase in temperature of the battery solution will take place. This is caused by the action of the acid in the solution penetrating the plates mid reacting with the active material, but does no injury. Since the acid in the solution joins the active material in the plates the density of the solution becomes proportionately lower. This is to be expected and should cause no concern. In order that the entire plate volume of active material may be in chemical action during charge, the battery should stand before being placed on charge -until the solution has bad time to penetrate the entire thickness of the plates. This requires at least twelve hours, but not more than twenty-four hours. 5. Just before charging the battery, again fill with 1.275 electrolyte to 3/8 inch over the top of the separators. After this, do not add anything but distilled water to the battery solution. 6. The battery should then be put on charge at the finish rate until the gravity stops rising. At the end of this period the specific gravity should be between 1.280 and 1.300. It may take from 36 to 72 hours before this density is reached. Care should be taken not to prolong the charging unduly, for that may cause active material to fall out of the grids, thus injuring the plates beyond repair. 7. Because of the evaporation of water in the solution during the charging process, it is necessary to add distilled water from time to time in order to keep the solution above the tops of the separators. The temperature of the battery while on charge should never exceed 110 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature rises above this point the charging must be discontinued for a time or the rate decreased. If at any time during the initial charging the density rises above 1.300 some of the solution should immediately be drawn off with a syringe and distilled water added. This must be done as often as is necessary to keep the density below 1.300. If the specific gravity does not change after two successive readings and does not then read within the limits of 1.280 to 1.300 it should be adjusted to read correctly. If the reading is less than 1.280 it should be adjusted by drawing off as much solution as can be taken out with a syringe and electrolyte of 1.400 specific gravity added. The battery must then be placed on charge for at least four hours and another reading taken. If it is again found to be less than 1.280 this operation should be repeated as many times as necessary to bring the density up to 1.280. 9. The height of solution when taking the battery off charge should be 5/8 of an inch above the top of the separators. After the battery has been off charge long enough to permit the solution to cool to normal temperature, draw off the excess to a final height of 3/8 inch above separators. Replace the vent plugs and battery is ready for service.

Unfilled Willard Wood Insulated Batteries

Unfilled, wood-insulated batteries have not had an initial charge and require a treatment similar to batteries with threaded rubber insulation. When shipment is made in this manner, such batteries should be placed in service before the date indicated on the tag attached to the battery. To prepare such a battery for service: 1. Remove the vent plugs and fill each cell with 1.335 specific gravity electrolyte (one part of concentrated sulphuric acid by volume to two parts of distilled water by volume) to 3/8 inch above the tops of the separators. 2. Wait 5 minutes and then fill each cell again with 1.335 specific gravity electrolyte to 3/8 inch above the tops of the separators. 3. The battery must then stand from 10 to 15 hours before placing on charge. 4. After standing for this length of time, fill each cell again, if necessary, with 1.335 specific gravity electrolyte to bring the level of the electrolyte 3/8 inch above the tops of the separators before charging. 5. Place the battery on charge at the finish rate marked on the name plate until the gravity and cell voltage stop rising. This charging will require at least 48 hours. 6. If, after a charge of 48 hours or longer the specific gravity does not rise for two consecutive hours, the gravity should be between 1.280 and 1.300. If it is not between these limits, the specific gravity should be adjusted to these values at the end of the charge. 7. If, during the charge, the temperature exceeds 110 degrees Fahrenheit, the charge rate should be reduced so as to keep the temperature below 110 degrees Fahrenheit and the time of charging lengthened proportionately.

Preparing Westinghouse Batteries for Service

(These batteries are prepared for shipment in what is known as export condition.) 1. Remove vent plugs and discard soft rubber caps. 2. Fill all cells with 1.300 specific gravity sulphuric acid until top of connecting straps, as seen through vent holes are completely covered. Temperature of filling acid should never be above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Note: The aim is to fill the cells with acid of such a Specific gravity that the electrolyte, at the end of charge, will need very little adjusting- to bring it to the proper specific gravity. 1.300 specific gravity acid has been found to be approximately correct for this purpose. However, if after several batteries have been prepared for service -using 1.300 specific gravity acid, considerable adjusting at the end of charge is necessary, it is permissible to use a slightly different specific gravity of filling acid, but the use of acid above 1.325 specific gravity or below 1,250 specific gravity is not recommended. 3. Allow batteries to stand after filling for from two to three hours before putting on charge. 4. Put on charge at finish charge rate shown on name plate of battery. Note: If temperature of electrolyte in battery reaches 100 degrees Fahrenheit (determined by inserting special thermometer through vent hole in cover), the charging rate should be immediately reduced, as continued charging at a temperature above 100 degrees Fahrenheit is injurious to both separators and plates. 5. Continue charging until all cells are gassing freely and individual cell voltage. and specific gravity of electrolyte have shown no decided rise for a period of five hours. Note: The length of time required to completely charge a new battery depends largely upon the time the battery has been in stock, varying from twelve to twenty-four hours for a comparatively fresh battery to four or five days for a battery six months or more old. 6. Keep level of electrolyte above tops of separators at all times, while charging by adding distilled water to replace that lost by evaporation. 7. After battery is completely charged the specific gravity of electrolyte in all cells should be adjusted to 1.285 at 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the level of electrolyte adjusted so that after battery is taken off charge the height of electrolyte stands 1/8 inch above tops of connecting straps. Note: Corrections for temperature if temperature of electrolyte is above or below 70 degrees Fahrenheit the correction is one point of gravity for each three degrees of temperature. See page 65. If specific gravity of electrolyte is above 1.285, a portion of the electrolyte should be removed and replaced with distilled water. If the specific gravity is below 1.285, a portion of electrolyte should be removed and replaced with 1.400 specific gravity sulphuric acid. Acid of higher gravity than 1.400 should never be put in batteries. Batteries should always be charged for several hours after adjusting gravity to insure proper mixing of the electrolyte and to see that the correct specific gravity of 1.285 has been obtained. 8. After first seven sections have been followed examine vent plugs to see that gas passage is Dot obstructed and screw back in place. Battery is now ready for service.

The Prest-O-Lite Assembled Green Seal Battery

This type of battery is made up of the same sort of plates as the old partly assembled green seal battery. The elements are, however, completely assembled will wood separators and sealed in the jars and box in the same manner as a wet battery to be put into immediate service; the cell connectors are burned in place. How to Store It. A room of ordinary humidity, one in which the air is never dryer for any reason than the average, should be used to store these batteries. They should be shielded from direct sunlight. Examine the vents-they should be securely inserted and remain so during the entire storage period. If these precautions are observed, this type battery may be stored for at least a year. To Prepare Battery for Use. 1. Prepare sufficient pure electrolyte of 1.300 specific gravity. If during the mixing considerable heat is evolved, allow electrolyte to cool down to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Never pour electrolyte, that is warmer than 90 degrees Fahrenheit, into cells. 2. Remove the vents and lay them aside until the final charging operation has been completed. Within 15 minutes from the time the vents are removed fill all cells to the bottom of vent openings with the electrolyte prepared, as stated above. 3. Allow the electrolyte to remain in the cells, not less than one hour. At the end of this time, should the electrolyte level fall below the tops of the separators, add enough electrolyte to bring level at least one-half inch above separators. If the temperature in the cells does not rise above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, proceed immediately (before two hours have elapsed) with the initial charging operation. If the temperature remains above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, allow the battery to stand until the electrolyte cools down to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Then proceed immediately with the charge. It is important that the acid does not stand in the cells for more than two hours, unless it is necessary to allow the acid to cool. 4. Initial Charging Operation. Place the battery on charge at the ampere rate given in the following table. The total initial charge must be for fifty-two hours, but at no time permit the electrolyte temperature to rise above 115 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature should reach 115 degrees Fahrenheit, take the battery off the line and allow the electrolyte to cool, but be sure that the total of fifty-two hours actual charging at the ampere rate specified is completed.

Initial Charge—52 Hours

Type of Plate Plates per Cell AHS WHN RHN SHC BHN JFN GM CLN KPN 3 1.5 5 2 2 2.5 3 7 3 3 3.5 4 3 5 9 4 4 5 5 7 11 5 5 6 7 7.5 5 9 13 6 6 7 8 9 6 10.5 10.5 15 7 7 9 9.5 10.5 7 12 17 10 12 9 19 9 9 11 12 9 The nominal battery voltage and the number of plates per cell is indicated by the Prest-O-Lite type designations, i. e.: 613 RHN denotes 6 volts, 13 plates per cell or 127 SHC denotes 12 volts, 7 plates per cell. 5. The electrolyte density at the end of fifty-two hours charge should be near 1.290 specific gravity. A variation between 1.285 and 1.300 is permissible. If, after fifty hours of the initial charge, the electrolyte density of any of the cells is outside these limits, adjustment should be begun while still charging. For those cells in which the density is higher than 1.300 specific gravity replace some of the electrolyte with distilled water. In those cells where the density is lighter than 1.285 specific gravity replace some -of the electrolyte with previously prepared electrolyte of 1.400 specific gravity. Wait until the cells have charged one hour before taking readings to determine the effect of adjustment, which, if not accomplished, should be attempted again as before. Practice Will enable the attendant to estimate the amount of electrolyte necessary to replace in order to accomplish the proper density desired-at the end of initial charge. 6. Following the completion of the fifty-two hour charge, if there is time to do so, it is good practice to put the battery through a development cycle, i. e., to discharge it at about the four-hour rate and then put it on the charging line again at the normal rate until a condition of full charge is again reached. The objects gained by this discharge are: (a) Further development of the plates. (b) Adjustment or stabilization of the electrolyte. (c) Checking the assembly by noting the failure of any cell or cells to act uniformly and satisfactorily during discharge. The four-hour discharge rate is, of course, like the normal rate of Initial Charge, dependent upon the size and number of plates per cell in any particular battery; the number of cells determines the voltage only and has nothing to do with the battery’s charge or discharging rating. These four-hour discharge rates are as follows: Type of Plate Plates per Cell AHS WHN RHN SHC BHN JFN GM CLN KPN 3 3 5 5 5 5.5 6.5 7 7.5 7.5 8 10 7.5 13.5 9 10 10 11 13 18 11 12.5 12.5 14 16 19 12.5 22.5 13 15 15 16.5 19.5 22.5 15 27 27 15 17.5 17.5 19 23 26 17.5 31.5 17 22 26 19 22.5 22.5 25 29 22.5 (7?) Immediately at the end of the four-hour discharge, put the battery on the line and charge it at the normal rate prescribed in the Initial Charge rate table until a state of complete charge, as noted by cell voltage and gravity is reached. This charging time should be about sixteen hours. Any adjustments of electrolyte found necessary at the end of this charging period in the same manner prescribed in paragraph No. 5, for such adjustments made just before the completion of the initial fifty-two hour charge. 8. At the end of the fifty-two hour charge, or, if the Development discharge has been given, at the end of the Development Cycle Charge, replace the vent plugs, wash all exterior surfaces with clean water and dry quickly. The battery is then ready for service.

INSTALLING A BATTERY ON A CAR

A battery must be installed carefully on the car if it is to have any chance to give good service. Careless installation of a battery which is in good working order will invariably lead to trouble in a very short time. On the other hand, a properly installed battery is, nine times out of ten, a good working and long lived battery. After you have removed the old battery, scrape all rust and corrosion from the inside of the battery box or compartment in which the battery is placed. This can best be done with a putty knife and wire brush. If you find that electrolyte has been spilled in the box, pour a saturated solution of baking soda on the parts affected so as to neutralize the acid. Then wipe the inside of the box dry and paint it with a good acid proof paint. Next take out the hold down bolts. Clean them with a wire brush, and oil the threads on the bolt and in the nut to make them work easily. It is very important that this oiling be done, as the oil protects the bolts from corrosion, and to remove the nuts from a corroded bolt is an extremely difficult and aggravating piece of work, often resulting in the bolts being broken. Should such bolts become loose while the car is in use, it is hard to tighten them. Wooden strips found in the battery box should be thoroughly cleaned and scraped, and then painted with acid proof paint. When you lower the battery into its box, lower it all the way gently. Do not lower it within an inch or so of the bottom of the case and then drop it. This will result in broken jars and plate lugs. Turn the hold downs tight, but not so tight as to break the sealing compound at the ends of the battery, thereby causing electrolyte to leak out, and battery to become a “slopper”. Cables and connectors should be scraped bright with a knife and brushed thoroughly with the wire brush to remove all corrosion. Old tape which has become acid soaked should be removed and the cable or wire underneath cleaned. Before applying new tape, take a small round bristle brush and paint Vaseline liberally over the exposed cable immediately back of the taper terminal. Then cover the Vaseline with tape, which Should be run well back from the terminal. The Vaseline prevents the corrosion of the cable and the tape holds the Vaseline in place. After the tape has been applied, paint it with acid proof paint. Cover the terminals of the battery with Vaseline. Cables must have enough slack to prevent strains from being put on the battery terminals. By following these directions, you will not only have a properly installed battery, which will have a good chance to give good service, but will have a neat looking job which is most pleasing to the eye of the car owner. Remove all dirt from the battery and cable terminals and thoroughly clean the surfaces which are to connect together, but do not scrape off the lead coating. Apply a heavy coating of pure Vaseline to these surfaces and tighten the connection perfectly, squeezing out the Vaseline. Then give the whole connection a heavy coating of Vaseline. This is very important in order to prevent connection trouble. If battery is installed in an enclosing box, be sure that none of the ventilating holes are clogged.

STORING BATTERIES

When a battery is not in active use on a car it should be put into storage. Storage is necessary: 1. When a car is to stand idle for a considerable period, such as is the case when it is held for future delivery. 2. When a car is laid up for the winter. 3. When batteries are kept in stock. Batteries may be stored “wet,” i.e., completely assembled and filled with electrolyte, or “dry,” i.e., in a dry disassembled condition, without electrolyte. In deciding whether a battery should be stored “wet” or “dry,” two things are to be considered, i.e. the length of time the battery is to be in storage, and the condition of the battery. If a battery is to be out of commission for a year or more, it should be put into “dry” storage. If it is to be in storage for less than one year, it may be put into “wet” storage if it is in a good condition. If the condition of the battery is such that it will need to be dismantled soon for repairs, it should be put into “dry” storage, even though it is to be out of service for less than one year. Batteries in “dry” storage require no attention while they are in storage, but they must be dismantled before being put into storage and reassembled when put back into service. When a battery is brought in to be stored, note its general condition carefully. (a) Its General Appearance-condition of case, handles, terminals, sealing compound, and so on. (b) Height and specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell. (c) Age of Battery. Question owner as to length of time he has had battery. Read date marks on battery if there are any, or determine age by the age code. See page 243. If a battery is less than a year old, is in good condition, and is to be stored for less than one year, it may be put into “wet” storage. If it is more than a year old, put it into dry storage, unless it is in first class shape and is to be stored for only several months. After making your general observations, clean the battery, add distilled water to bring the electrolyte up to the proper level, put the battery on charge and keep it on the line until it is fully charged. Watch for any abnormal condition during the charge, such as excessive temperature rise, failure of voltage to come up, failure of specific gravity to come up, and gassing before gravity becomes constant. If no abnormal conditions develop during the charge, put the battery on discharge at a rate which will cause the voltage to drop to 1.7 volts per cell in about four hours. Measure the cell voltages at regular intervals during the discharge test. If the voltage of any cell drops much more rapidly than that of the other cells, that cell is defective in some way, and should be opened for inspection. If the voltage of all cells drops to 1.7 in three hours or less, the battery should be put into dry storage. After completing the discharge test, recharge it fully, no matter whether it is to be put into wet or dry storage. If no trouble developed during the charge or discharge, the battery may be put into “wet” storage. If trouble did develop, the battery should be put into “dry” storage. If dry storage is found to be necessary the owner should be informed that the condition of his battery would cause it to deteriorate in wet storage and necessitate much more expensive repairs when put into use again than will be necessary in the thorough overhauling and rejuvenation of dry storage. He should be advised that dry storage involves dismantling, drying out elements and reassembling with the needed repairs and new separators in the Spring. Be sure that the customer understands this. If it is evident that repairs or new parts, involving costs additional to storage charges, will be necessary, tell him so. Do not leave room for a complaint about costs in the Spring. To avoid any misunderstanding, it is highly advisable to have the customer put his signature on a STORAGE AGREEMENT which states fully the terms under which the battery is accepted for storage. The storage cost may be figured on a monthly basis, or a price for the entire storage period may be agreed upon. The monthly rate should be the same as the regular price for a single battery recharge. If a flat rate is paid for the entire storage period, $2.00 to $3.00 is a fair price.

“Wet” Storage

1. Store the batteries on a bench or shelf in a convenient location and large enough to allow a little air space around each battery. 2. Place each battery upon wooden strips in order to keep the bottom of the battery clear of the bench or shelf, 3. Apply Vaseline freely to the battery terminals, and to exposed copper -wires in the battery cables if the cables are burned directly to the battery terminals. If the cables are not burned on, remove them from the battery. 4. If convenient, install the necessary wiring, switches, etc., so that batteries may be connected up and charged where they stand. Otherwise the batteries must be charged occasionally oil the charging bench.

5. Batteries in wet storage may be charged by the Exide “Trickle” charge method, or may be given a bench charge at regular intervals. 6. Bench Charge Method.- Once every month, add distilled water to replace evaporation. Then give battery a bench charge. See page 198. Before putting battery into service repeat this process and just before putting the battery into service, make the high rate discharge test on it. See page 266. 7. Trickle Charge Method.- This consists of charging the batteries in storage continuously at a very low rate, which is so low that no gassing occurs, and still gives enough charge to maintain the batteries in good condition. In many cases the “Trickle” Charge method will be found more convenient than the bench charge method, and it has the advantage of keeping the batteries in condition for putting into service on short notice. It should, however, be used only where direct current lighting circuits are available. In the “Trickle” method, the batteries are first given a complete bench charge, and are then connected in series across a charging circuit with one or several incandescent. lamps in series -with the batteries to limit the current. In Fig. 151, an example of connections for a “Trickle” charge is given. The charging current for different sized batteries varies from 0.05 to 0.15 ampere. The following table gives the lamps required to give the desired current on 110 volt circuit. In each case, the lamps are connected in series with the batteries. The “2-25 watt, (lamps), in parallel” listed in the table are to be connected in parallel with each other and then in series with the batteries. The same is true of the “3-25 watt (lamps), in series” listed in the table. Amp. Hours. Capacity 5 Amp. Rate Amperes Approximate No. of Cells in Series on Line 115-Volt No. 115 Volt Lamps Required 115-Volt 50 or less 0.05 3 5-15 watt, in series 50 or less 0.05 30 2-15 watt, in series 50 or less 0.05 45 1-15 watt, in series 50 – 100 0.10 3 3-25 watt, in series 50 – 100 0.10 30 1-25 watt, in series 50 – 100 0.10 45 2-25 watt, in parallel 100 or over 0.15 3 2-25 watt, in series 100 or over 0.15 30 1-25 watt, in series 100 or over 0.15 45 3-25 watt, in parallel Every two months interrupt the trickle charge long enough to add water to bring the electrolyte up to the proper level. When this has been done, continue the trickle charge. Before putting the batteries into service, see that the electrolyte is up to the correct level, and that the specific gravity of the electrolyte is 1.280-1.300. If necessary, give a short charge on the charging bench to bring the specific gravity up to the correct value.

Dry Storage

1. Give the battery a complete charge. Pour out the electrolyte, and separate the groups. If the negatives have bulged active material, press them in the plate press. In batteries such as the Prest-OLite in which it is difficult to remove the plates from the cover, the groups need not be separated unless the negatives have badly bulged active material. It may not be necessary to separate the groups even then, provided that the positives are not buckled to any noticeable extent. If only a very slight amount of buckling exists, the entire element may be pressed by putting thin boards between the plates in. place of the separators. 2. Immerse the negatives in distilled water for ten to twelve hours. If positives and negatives cannot be separated, wash each complete element in a gentle stream of water. 3. Remove plates from water and allow them to drain thoroughly and dry. The negatives will heat up when exposed to the air, and when they do so they should be immersed in the water again to cool them. Repeat this as long as they tend to heat up. Then allow them to dry thoroughly. 4. Throw away the old separators. Rubber separators may be saved if in good condition. Clean the covers and terminals., wash out the jars, and turn the case up side down to drain out the water. Examine the box carefully. It is advisable to wash with a solution of baking soda, rinsing the water in order to neutralize as far as possible the action of acid remaining on the box. If this is not done, the acid may start decomposition of the box while in storage, in which. case the owner of the battery may insist on its renewal before acceptance at the end of the storage period. 5. When, the plates are perfectly dry, nest the positives and negatives together, using dry cardboard instead of separators, and replace them in the jars in their proper positions. 6. Replace the covers and vent plugs, but, of course, do not use any sealing compound on them. 7. Tie the terminals and top connectors to the handle on the case with a wire. 8. Tag the battery with the owner’s name and address, using the tag on which you made the sketch of the arrangement of the terminals and top connections. 9. Store the battery in a dry place, free from dust, until called for. 10. When the battery is to be put into service again, put in new separators, put the elements in the jars, seal the covers, and burn on the top connectors and terminals (if these are of the burned-on type). Fill the cells with electrolyte of about 1.310 specific gravity and allow the battery to stand for ten to twelve hours in order to cool. Then put the battery on charge at one-half the normal charging rate and charge until the specific gravity of the electrolyte stops rising and remains stationary for five hours. The total time required for this development charge will be about four days. Watch the temperature of the electrolyte carefully, and if it should rise to 110° Fahrenheit, stop the charge until it cools. 11. The specific gravity will fall during the first part of the charge, due to the new separators; at the end of the charge, the specific gravity should be 1.280-1.300. If it is not within these limits, adjust it by withdrawing some electrolyte with the hydrometer and adding water if the gravity is high, or 1.400 electrolyte if the gravity is low. 12. Clean the case thoroughly and give it a coat of asphaltum paint. 13. Just before putting the battery into service, give it a high rate discharge test. See page 266.

DETERMINING AGE OF BATTERY

Battery manufacturers use codes to indicate the age of their batteries. These codes consist of letters, figures, or combinations of letters and figures, which are stamped on the inter-cell connectors or on the nameplate. The codes may also be burned on the case. The codes of the leading makes of batteries follow. In addition to determining the age of a battery by means of the code, the owner should be questioned as to the time the battery was installed on his car. If the battery is the original one which came with the car, the dealer’s or car manufacturer’s records will help determine the battery’s age. If a new battery has been installed to replace the one that came with the car, the battery distributor’s records will help determine the age of the battery. Familiarity with the different makes and types of battery will also help in determining a battery’s age. Manufacturers make improvements in the construction of. their batteries from time to time, and by keeping up-to-date on battery constructions, it is

Because battery voltage varies with charging or load current flow, measurements with a voltmeter tell very little about the condition of the battery except under very specific conditions. In most cases, measuring the specific gravity of the battery’s water and sulfuric acid (electrolyte) mixture is the best way to determine the state of charge and condition of the cell.

A lead-acid cell has an active electrolyte that participates in the electrochemical process while charging its concentration of sulfuric acid. Because this change in concentration directly reflects the change in the state of charge of the cell (much more accurately than cell voltage), measurements of electrolyte acidity can be used as an indicator of charge.

While there are many ways to determine how much sulfuric acid is dissolved in water, the simplest and least expensive method for field use is by hydrometer. A hydrometer does not directly measure sulfuric acid concentration, but it does answer this question by displaying the specific gravity of the electrolyte, which is its density compared to that of pure water.

Incorrect readings

Density measurements give an accurate indication of acid concentration, but the density of the acid/water solution can vary for other, independent reasons – and accuracy can be affected. Any density measurement is affected by temperature, and most hydrometers are calibrated to read correctly only at a normal operating temperature of 77F. For example: At an electrolyte temperature of 125 F (maximum for battery operation) an hydrometer will read 16 points low; at 26 F the reading is 16 points high.

The hydrometer method also assumes that we are only measuring the density of pure sulfuric acid in pure water. Anything else dissolved in the electrolyte would increase the overall density and give an incorrect reading.

If the battery has just been watered, do not expect an accurate hydrometer reading until the battery has been charged. When charging, the electrolyte is whirled up and mixed with the water. Otherwise, the pure, lower-density water will float on top of the rest of the electrolyte and your hydrometer may only be measuring that part.

The readings of the areometer during the charging process lag behind the actual state of charge of the battery. Only when the battery has almost reached the end of its 8-hour charge does the hydrometer give a good indication of the condition of the battery. Batteries that have repeatedly overflowed from overfilling with water tend to have weakened, diluted electrolyte due to loss of sulfuric acid. (If no overflow occurs, only pure water will vent as vapor during normal use and minimal acid loss will occur). Hydrometer readings of highly diluted electrolyte are not useful indicators of battery status.

An older battery showing signs of acid spillover (heavy corrosion, truck compartment deposits) should be serviced by a battery specialist who can determine the degree of dilution of the electrolyte and bring the concentration back to original specifications. Once this is done, the hydrometer readings are a reliable indication of the battery’s state of charge and overall health.

Choose and use

Various types of hydrometers are available for lead-acid batteries, and even those designed for use with automotive starter batteries will work for industrial batteries. It is best to use a hydrometer that displays a numerical value for specific gravity. The typical value range: 1,100 to over 1,300 (the decimal point on the scale is usually omitted for better readability, e.g.: 1,100 to 1,300)

The numbers displayed by the hydrometer are values ​​of the specific gravity or density of the liquid compared to that of water, which has a specific gravity of 1,000. The electrolyte in a lead-acid battery is at its highest concentration of sulfuric acid when the battery is fully charged. The typical full charge value for an industrial battery is 1.275, but many batteries use a stronger electrolyte. Check each battery’s manufacturer’s specs to verify the recommended full charge specific gravity – it can be as high as 1,300 or more. A lead-acid battery is ready for recharging when it has reached its 80% discharge point, which is indicated by a hydrometer reading between about 1.140 and 1.180. Battery operation below 1,120 is not recommended.

The best time to use a hydrometer to identify the problem cell(s) in a problem battery is during the problem time: at that time during the shift when forklift performance is beginning to drop. Bad cells usually show up after use with much lower specific gravity values ​​than the others, even if the same cells had acceptable values ​​when the battery was fully charged.

A fully charged battery with well-mixed electrolyte should have a hydrometer reading of all cells within 25 points of each other. If a major discrepancy persists after an equalization charge (prolonged charge), the battery should be checked by an experienced battery technician.

Tips for the correct use of an areometer

1) Measure more than one cell when checking SOC

2) Don’t expect an accurate reading right after watering the battery

3) The battery temperature affects the measurement accuracy – the electrolyte should be at normal room temperature

4) Wear eye protection when leaning over the battery

5) Electrolyte residues remaining in the areometer are corrosive – rinse out the areometer and store in an acid-proof container.

Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid and should only be handled by trained and authorized personnel. When talking about lead-acid batteries, sulfuric acid is usually referred to as “battery acid” or “electrolyte”. An electrolyte is a general term used to describe a nonmetallic substance, such as sulfuric acid or salts, that can conduct electricity when dissolved in water.

Lead-acid batteries can generate explosive mixtures of hydrogen and oxygen gases when charging. Note that in some cases, hydrogen gas has been found to interfere with carbon monoxide detectors. For more information, contact your detector manufacturer(s).

There are different types of batteries that are designed to perform specific functions depending on the capacity and discharge rate of the battery in question. Batteries are rated based on these features, with rating systems that differ depending on the task the battery is designed to perform. Amp hours or ampere hours (AH) are used to express how long a battery can operate while discharging a given amount of energy and are used to rate batteries designed to deliver low currents for long periods of time. If you want to find the AH rating of a battery that isn’t originally listed in amp-hours, you can do it at home with a multimeter and a few hours of monitoring time.

TL;DR (Too Long; Didn’t Read) Batteries are rated in measurements based on the tasks they are designed to perform. For example, batteries rated in ampere-hours (AH, also known as ampere-hours) are designed to deliver low currents for long periods of time. To determine the AH number of a 12 volt battery, use a multimeter. Connect a base resistor to the battery’s terminals, then monitor the discharge over time until the voltage drops to 12 volts. You can then use a measurement of the battery current to calculate the AH rating.

battery preparation

To determine the AH rating of a 12-volt battery that isn’t already listed in amp-hours, first make sure the battery is fully charged. If the battery is not new, it should be charged with a battery charger and then left for several hours to eliminate the surface charge. Use your multimeter to measure the voltage across the two battery terminals. A fully charged 12 volt lead-acid battery should have at least 12.6 volts across the terminals. If so, the battery is ready for testing.

discharge test

Connect a resistor of about 1 ohm, 200 watts across the battery terminals. When testing, your multimeter should show a current of around 12 amps, but if it doesn’t, make a note of the current shown. To calculate your battery’s AH rating, you need to determine how long it takes for the battery to discharge to about 50 percent of its capacity. To do this, monitor the voltage once an hour for the next few hours and take notes throughout the process.

The voltage should decrease by about 0.1 volts every two hours. If the decay is faster, the resistance provided by your resistor is too small and your current is too high to give a correct estimate. You need to connect a larger resistor to repeat the testing process. The battery voltage should drop to about 12 volts after about 10 hours. Write down the exact number of hours and you can calculate the AH number of the battery.

Calculate AH

To comprehensively test your e-bike battery, you need to complete five tasks. First prepare the battery by charging it and removing it from the bike.

Then do a battery stress test with a multimeter. Then use the same multimeter to test voltage, current and resistance.

Compare all of these readings to the information in the owner’s manual to gauge the health of the battery.

In this article, we’ll explore the simple steps to test an e-bike battery from the comfort of your home.

With nothing more than a multimeter, you can keep a good eye on the health of your battery and know when it’s time to replace it.

The only tool you need to test your e-bike battery is what is known as a multimeter.

A multimeter is a simple electrical measuring device that is cheap and easy to get. You can find them in any hardware store or even online in both digital and analogue form.

But what exactly does a multimeter measure?

It measures electrical values ​​such as voltage, current and resistance of electrical items such as batteries.

More sophisticated multimeters also test for other types of values. However, these are not necessary to perform basic tests on your e-bike battery.

Typically, a digital or analog multimeter takes the form of a handheld device with two probes.

For e-bike batteries, press these probes against the poles of the battery (the red probe to the positive pole and the black probe to the negative pole).

What parameters do you test in an e-bike battery?

When we talk about “testing an e-bike battery”, we are actually referring to battery testing:

voltage current resistance

Let’s take a closer look at each of these parameters and what role they play in the health of your e-bike battery.

E-bike battery voltage

The performance of an e-bike is closely related to its voltage. In general, the higher the voltage of the battery, the higher the performance of the e-bike.

The purpose of testing the e-bike battery voltage is to make sure it is at or near the correct voltage.

You can tell this by comparing the voltage reading to what’s listed in the owner’s manual for the bike or the battery itself.

Simply put, if the voltage is too low, it is a sign that the battery may be about to die. You may need to replace that battery soon enough.

E-bike battery power

Put simply, the current in an e-bike battery is the amount of electrical energy that flows through it at a certain point in time.

E-bike battery resistance

All batteries have some resistance. However, this resistance should not be too high, which would cause the battery to overheat and drop in voltage (discussed earlier).

Suppose you are testing an e-bike battery and find that the resistance value is way too high. If this is the case, then this is an indicator that the battery is worn out and may need to be replaced.

The quick steps to test an e-bike battery

Here are the 5 quick steps you need to follow to test an e-bike battery:

Prepare the battery for testing. Run a battery stress test. Do a voltage test. Run a power test. Do a resistance test

Prepare the battery for testing

One of the most important things to do first is to prepare your e-bike battery for testing. This requires two tasks: first, you need to fully charge the battery.

Once this is done you should remove the battery from the bike and place it on a flat work surface such as a workbench in your garage.

Make sure you have the manuals or technical data sheets for the e-bike and the battery. This makes it easier for you to refer back to them later.

Here’s an important note: Depending on the type of e-bike battery you have, how you connect the multimeter probes may differ. For example, some batteries have direct connectors that the multimeter probes plug into. However, for other types you may need an adapter. Be sure to consult the user manual or contact the manufacturer if you are unsure how to do this specifically for your battery.

Always remember two things: First, you must connect the multimeter probes to the same terminals for each and every test. The only thing that changes is the setting of your multimeter.

And second, you don’t have to press the probes at all. It will still be able to get a good reading just by contact, so no need to apply pressure.

Run a battery stress test

The first test you want to run is a battery stress test. Some multimeters may already have a special feature to perform this test.

If this is the case for you, all you have to do is turn the dial or select this setting.

What this test actually measures is the amps of the e-bike battery.

You see, all lithium batteries (the most common battery type for e-bikes) gradually lose capacity over time. This also applies to batteries of all kinds.

With a sufficiently long period of time, this current becomes so low that the battery cannot be used at all.

Think of this as a “general health check” for your e-bike battery. As long as it hasn’t dropped too far from its original value (which you can find in the owner’s manual), this means your battery is good for now.

Do a voltage test

Next, switch your multimeter to its voltage measurement function. To be specific, make sure the multimeter is set to DC voltage, which is the kind your e-bike battery has.

Then connect the multimeter to the terminals of the battery. The exact dimensions vary depending on the battery type.

For example

A 52V e-bike battery should read around 58VDC to 42VDC. A 48 V battery, on the other hand, should show up. 54VDC to 40VDC

Suppose the numbers are not in these ranges. If this is the case, then this is an indicator that the battery may be starting to wear out.

Run a power test

Whenever someone tells you to test the capacity of the battery, they are referring to the current test.

The battery capacity of e-bikes is measured in milliamps x hours or mAh.

Again, whatever your multimeter reads, you should compare it to the battery manual.

That way you’ll know what the battery capacity should be when compared to what it could be now.

Do a resistance test

Eventually you’ll want to switch your multimeter to measure the battery’s resistance. Electrical resistance tries to stop the flow of current through the battery.

This resistance is present in all circuits, but should never be too high.

As already mentioned, if the resistance is too high, the battery will overheat. More importantly, the current can’t flow through the battery as intended, leaving you with even less voltage than usual.

Final Thoughts

As you can see from the steps above, testing an e-bike battery is a multi-tasking activity.

That’s because the overall health of an e-bike battery is a combination of battery charge, voltage, current, and resistance.

If all of those numbers are where they should be, you can rest assured that your e-bike battery is still in good condition.

However, if these numbers indicate that your battery might be depleted, you need to decide what to do next. Replacing an e-bike battery doesn’t come cheap, so you should first check if the manufacturer’s warranty is still valid.

It’s not uncommon for an e-bike battery to die sooner than expected. Luckily, a warranty takes care of that, and you should be able to get a replacement for free.

New vs. refurbished e-bike batteries

However, if you need to replace the battery yourself, you will have to choose between buying a brand new battery or a refurbished one.

Refurbished e-bike batteries are cheaper and still have a lot of power to offer.

However, you should always be careful to buy refurbished batteries from reputable suppliers. The good ones also offer you some kind of guarantee, although it’s not as good as that of a brand new battery.

However, if you would feel more secure with a brand new, factory new battery, then don’t be afraid to spend more money on one. The investment is definitely worth it!