Bear Lights Out Bow String Length? The 205 Correct Answer

The following is an attempt to describe how to make a bowstring, a relatively simple task but complex to explain in written words and diagrams. However, attempts have been made to use information and diagrams from various sources. We hope to continue to add to the information, particularly about compound bowstrings and cables.

Comments are welcome!

introduction

Bowstrings are probably the simplest thing to craft or customize for a bow. The most common string used is the endless loop, which most people use for recurve and compound bows. There are other types, one of which is called the “Flemish Twist” (usually used on traditional longbows, and we’ll leave it at that for now). We will only focus on the former. Below are a few things you’ll need to get started.

Materials needed

1. String Material

The type of bowstring material you use is entirely up to you. However, make sure your bow is rated for the bowstring you intend to use.

Most older bows with wood or wood/glass limbs are not designed for high performance strings like Fast Flight, BCY 450 etc. and Dacron is the preferred choice for these older or lightly constructed recurve bows.

Dacron is also used for compound bows where the cables are still steel. Although Kevlar is well known as a bowstring material, it is generally no longer used and is now not recommended.

Fast Flight and its equivalents are a must for today’s high-performance recurve bows and for the string and cable systems of almost all compound bows.

As well as getting your favorite bowstring material, it is highly recommended that you get some Dacron string material for practice purposes. Relatively inexpensive compared to other string materials, Dacron strings can be used to make your first practice strings.

DACRON B-50 FASTFLIGHT KEVLAR BCY 450

2. String gauge

You need a string gauge. Commercial jigs such as the Arten String Jig (see below) are available from pro shops and retailers. This is an easily portable telescopic gauge that allows you to change the length of the cord.

You can also build your own string jig (and probably make a sturdier one), but we won’t go into details here.

A stable tensioning device is important to ensure even tension on the bowstring you are making.

BOWSTRING JIG

3. Serving material

Serving materials are available in many colors and types. The most commonly used types are braided nylon, monofilament, and fast flight. Other materials such as Dyneema are also available.

These materials are used to finish your string loops and make center serve while protecting your string from pinching.

For recurve bowstrings, Fast Flight is a good choice for the center wrap and braided nylon for the end loops.

For compound bowstrings and cables, Fast Flight is recommended to wrap end loops and center serve. Monofilament and braided nylon can also be considered for the middle wrap.

#4 BRAIDED NYLON #18 MONOFILAMENT FLASTFIGHT SERVING

4. String serving jig

Line serving devices ensure constant tension when laying your serving material. It’s a handy tool and any archer seriously considering making bowstrings should invest in one.

STRING SERVER JIG WITH YELLOW DYNEEMA SERVING

Making the bowstring

Now that you have all the materials ready, we can start making the bowstring.

Step 1: Determine the length of the bowstring

If you already have a string for your bow, unwind the string and measure its length. Otherwise, determine the length of your bow.

On a recurve bow, your string length should be about 3.5 inches shorter than your bow length. So if you’re using a 68″ bow your string length should be around 64.5″ replace or want to check the manufacturer’s specs, these are usually listed on the front of the lower limb near the riser.

It is advisable to add about 1/4 inch to the determined string or cable length to allow for some twist.

Step 2: Determine the bow string strand

A bowstring is made up of several strands of bowstring material. The number of strands to use depends on the material you choose and also your bow weight. To find your recommended number of strands you can use the following formula:

40 pounds x 4/10 pounds = 16 strands

If your maximum bow weight is 40lbs and your string has an ultimate elongation of 10lbs (i.e. your string will break when you apply 10lbs of force to it), your recommended number of strands is 16.

The above is one way you can determine your string size. But often people don’t really go that far to determine their bowstring size. The number of recommended strands to use is likely to be available at the professional archery shop where you purchase your string material, or perhaps from people at your club and of course on the internet. From the recommended strand size, you can add or subtract 1 to 2 strands to suit your shooting style, and when it comes to club training equipment, durability is also an important factor.

Below is an example of the string size you could use for some of the string materials on the market (recurve bows only).

For composite strings and cables, it’s best to stick to the manufacturer’s original strand count + or – 1 or 2.

Note: Adding more strands to your string will make it stronger, but decrease arrow speed.

Bow weight Number of strands (recurve bows) Dacron Fast Flight S4 BCY450 20-25 lbs 8 14 7 10 25-35 lbs 10 16 8 12 35-40 lbs 12 18 9 14 45-55 lbs 14 20 10 16

* The number of strands shown is for guidance only.

Step 3: Setting Up the Bow String Jig

Before proceeding with the construction of your bowstring jig, let’s look at the basic anatomy of a string jig.

Figure 3.1

A telescopic string tensioner is shown above. The central column of this device consists of at least two parts which are connected by a locking bolt.

The length of the device can be adjusted by sliding the two columns up and down and securing with the locking pin.

The 4 changing posts, labeled A, B, C and D above, can be rotated at the pivot points shown. This allows the 4 posts to be aligned in a straight line (Figure 3.2).

Figure 3.2

Adjust the jig for the length of string you want to build and secure the locking bolt. Note: String length is measured from the far left of post A to the far right of post D.

Step 4: Laying the Cord

Now that your template is all set up, you can start routing your string material.

Figure 4.1

Locate the running end of your thread material (thread) and tie it to winding pin A. Wrap the thread around winding pins A and D until you have the required number of strands. Remember that a complete loop (A to D to A) consists of 2 strands. Keep the thread as evenly taut as you can as you wrap it around the posts. When you have wound the desired number of strands, carefully untie the end of the thread on post A and tie it to the other end of the thread.

Maintain tension in the string while tying the two ends together.

Step 5: Measure the loop

By now you have placed your bowstring in the string jig. The next step is to operate the loop (the groves at the end of your limbs). Different bow limbs can have different loop sizes. To measure yours, take a piece of string and wrap it around the limb groove between points X and Y (Figure 5.1). Mark the string for points X and Y and measure the distance. This is your loop size.

Figure 5.1

Most limbs have a loop size between 2.5″ (60 mm) and 3.5″ (85 mm). You can also consider making one loop larger than the other.

This makes it easier to tell which end goes with which link. Have you ever strung your string backwards? This is just one of the practical reasons for different loop sizes. The other is that when you string your bow, you typically put one loop over the limb and slide the other into the limb.

One of the loops needs to be larger to fit the wider section of your limb. While the other end, if made too big, will cause it to “wander” out of the grove easily.

Step 6: Operate the loop

Carefully turn the winding columns A/B and C/D back into their original position.

Try to balance the tension as you rotate the uprights.

Figure 6.1

Mark the midpoint between posts A and B (Figure 6.2). When you find the center, mark the loop position. So if your loop size is 3 inches, mark 1.5 inches left and right of the center point (labeled 1 and 2 below).

Make sure the knot you made serves within 0.5 inch of the end of the loop.

Figure 6.2

You can now start operating the loop. Start serving approximately 6mm to the left of point 1 and end 3mm to the right of point 2.

This extra portion serves as an overlap when finishing the ending (explained later).

Figure 6.3

Pull a length of serving twine from the spool and drape it about 25mm across your bowstring.

Figure 6.4

Serve about 10 to 15 turns of serving cord by going over and under the bowstring and the 1″ (25mm) of serving cord. Slowly pull on the “first end” to tighten the serving.

Make sure to start serving at a point half an inch from your mark (Figure 6.3).

Figure 6.5

Keep using your string server to the end.

Cut the serving thread and attach it to the serving (on the cord) with a drop of superglue; or Do not cut the serving thread. Take a small piece of tape and secure the end of the portion (stop the portion from unwinding).

Figure 6.6

Slowly rotate Uprights A and B so they are parallel to the Center Column. Pull your cord so that the portion has an 20 cm overlap. Please refer to the chart below. Note that the end with the serving spool is 1″ shorter. Next, cut the thread of the first end protruding from the portion.

Figure 6.7

You can now start tying the bow. Pull your portion string off the spool and start winding it about 3.5 cm from the end of the shorter portion (Figure 6.8). For this reason we serve the extra quarter inch at the beginning and one eighth of an inch at the end.

Figure 6.8

The type of serve is the same as before (Figure 6.5). Continue the cuff about 3.5 inches (see Figure 6.9). At this point, you need to prepare the serve to end with a “blind end.”

Figure 6.9

Take a piece of bowstring or serving twine about 4 to 6 inches long. Lay the scrap line across the area where you will hit as shown in Figure 6.10 below. Serve as usual for about 10 to 15 turns, or for about an additional quarter of an inch.

Figure 6.10

When you’re done serving, peel and cut an additional 2 to 3 inches from the coil. Take the running end of this portion and place it in the loop of the rest of the cord. Gently but firmly pull the scrap line. Your serving end is pulled together with the scrap cord.

Once the serving end is pulled through, gently pull to tighten your portion. Cut the excess serving string that is sticking out and you’re done.

Figure 6.11

Now do the same for the other loop end, ie. between posts C and D.

Step 7: Center Serving (Nocking Point)

To serve the middle of the string, or middle portion, it is usually best to remove the bowstring from the jig and string it to the bow. Twist your string about 10 to 15 turns before stringing. This will shorten your string close enough to your normal string height. Use a bow square to mark your nocking point on the string. Then mark two more points. One 5 cm above the nock point and the other at least 8 cm below the nock point. Serve between these two points. You can serve longer or shorter than this recommended length if you wish.

Figure 7.1

See “Step 6: Serving The Loop” for serving instructions.

Step 8: Completing the Cord

Rub the string with some wax before using it for the first time. Rub the string vigorously (not roughly!) with a rag or leatherette. The heat generated by rubbing softens the wax and protects the string. Don’t grow the portion. If you accidentally get some on the middle portion, sprinkle some talcum powder on top. The last thing you want is a finger tab or release assist ropes or jaws stuck to the string!

Making bowstrings only takes a little practice to master. Archers who are serious about their shooting should learn how to make their own bowstrings. You have more control over the quality of your string compared to the ones you buy. Here I have tried to explain the process of a bowstring in eight steps. I just hope I didn’t make it seem so complicated and scared you were string makers out there. It’s really easy!

things to consider

If you have to turn your string more than 20 turns to reach your string height, your string is too long. On average, 15 turns equals about half an inch. So if you have to twist your string 30 turns, shorten your string length by half an inch. (15 turns in the string is normal) If your string is too short, do not attempt to shoot with it. A short cord puts stress on your limbs and may even cause them to break. Always check your string for fraying or defects before stringing. If in doubt, DO NOT use the string. Slight fraying can usually be fixed by waxing the string. A clean, waxed and cared for string will give you a lot of pleasure. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for recommended string life. If you think you can only make one bowstring a year, then please don’t choose short life strings like Kevlar and Vectran.

If you have any questions, please log on to the forum and ask your questions there or use the form on our contact page.

The Bear Grizzly is our most popular one-piece bow. It’s the same design since it was last modified in 1964. The price fits any budget while still offering great performance. The Bear Grizzly has an AMO length of 58 inches to allow for smooth shooting, yet is versatile for navigating the woods and getting the shots that longer bows won’t allow. A durable recurve hunting bow with solid performance.

Riser: Rounded, cut center floor. Solid piece of Shedua. Including arrow rest and plate. Threaded with 1/4″ x 20 quiver inserts. Inlaid bear medallion.

Limbs: Clear maple core surrounded by black fiberglass.

String: Dacron Flemish Twist bowstring. Manufacturer recommended strut height: 7½” – 8½”. Replacement string length of 54″ recommended.

Available in 30#, 35#, 40#, 45#, 50#, 55# and 60# for right-handers and 35#, 40#, 45#, 50# and 55# for left-handers. Please specify.

See all Bear Archery products

Let us set up your bow with our 3Rivers Bow Set-up Service. Read more about setting up longbows and recurves on our blog.

Choose between a left- or right-handed bow (choose depending on which hand you’re pulling the bowstring with) and a bow weight with a draw length of 28 inches. Remember that with a traditional bow, the weight changes depending on the draw length. Bow weight will change approximately ±2½ pounds per inch from the nominal draw length of the bow. So a 45# @ 28″ bow is approximately 42½# @ 27″ or 47½# @ 29″. The draw weight is marked with the nearest 5 increment to the actual weight (2’s is under and 3’s is over). This is an industry wide Default.

Minimum Arrow Weight – Do not shoot an arrow that weighs less than eight grains for every pound of tip draw weight. Example: If the tip weight of your bow is 40 pounds at a 30 inch draw length, do not shoot an arrow with a total weight of less than 320 grains (40# x 8 gpp = 320 grains). Shooting an arrow with less than 8 grains per pound (gpp) can cause dry-shooting-like damage to your bow and possible injury to the shooter or others nearby. Damage caused by shooting an arrow that is too light will damage the bow and will not be covered by 3Rivers Archery or the bow manufacturer’s warranty.

Article by Marvin Long – September 20, 2006

Measuring traditional bows and bowstrings

There are many misconceptions about measuring bowstrings for traditional (conventional) bows and I would like to help clear up some of the questions about these bows and bowstrings.

I’ve sat on the specification committees of the AMO (Archery Manufacturers Organization) and ATA (Archery Trade Association) for about 20 years and have been involved in many discussions of specifications for archery equipment. I have also been making bowstrings commercially for 28 years. I made my first bowstring in 1954 in the boy scout camp.

Recurves and longbows are historical items that are being used more and more now, which makes me happy. Archers using the old style equipment will help keep the history of our sport alive.

Ben Pearson, Earl Hoyt, Fred Bear and others involved in our sport in the mid-century and earlier understood that to make it easier for archers to enjoy the sport, there needed to be standards for the industry. I’m sure setting a standard for measuring the arch was one of many, and as the mix has become much more dominant in sport many of the newer sporting goods store operators are not as familiar with the traditional arches.

The Archery Trade Association (ATA) states that a traditional bowstring should be marked and sold by the length of the bow and not by the length of the bowstring itself. A 60″ bowstring is for a 60″ bow, not the length of the bowstring. A traditional bow is measured string groove to string groove around the curve of the bow arms, not directly tip to tip. This measurement does not go into the curve of the grip, but rather across the surface of the limbs from string groove to string groove. This will give you the approximate length of the arch.

A string for bows over 40 lbs is measured by placing it over steel pins and tensioning it at 100 lbs of tension for 20 seconds. The measurement is taken from the outside of each peg. ATA specifications state that a bow should be properly strung with a string 3″ shorter than the bow. So if a bow is 60 inches long, it should be properly tensioned after 20 seconds with a 57 inch string under 100 pounds of tension. Bowstrings for bows less than 40 lbs should be measured in the same manner at 50 lbs tension.

Bow Makers used a steel cable bowstring master set called AMO (now ATA) Bow Lengths like AMO 66″ (bowlength) but it would have an actual length of 63″ under 100lbs of tension. If this cable were to properly brace an arch, it would be classified as a 66″ arch. A bowstring master set would range from 45″ to 69″ and support bows from 48″ to 72″.

A Dacron bowstring that stretches almost an inch under 100 lbs of tension looks “out of the box” as if it were 4 inches shorter than the bow. This is why you hear people talk about bowstrings being 4 inches shorter than the bow length. This is for a Dacron bowstring only and not under tension or actual length.

Since all materials stretch differently, measuring under pressure compensates for differences between materials. The newer materials, like Fastflight, don’t stretch like Dacron, so they look longer out of the box and look more like the three inches per ATA standards. Strings should be measured with no twist at this point. However, strings are installed with some twists to get better performance, and twisting can help the archer get better arrow flight. Some modern archers shoot up to 50 twists in a 70 inch bowstring. To get the correct bowstring after 50 turns, you may need to start with a 1″ longer bowstring.

Strings that have been shot a long time and need changing will likely look longer than they did when new, so going by bow length is a more consistent starting reference.

Strings can be rotated to change their length and this can be done to change the bow setting to make it work better for each individual archer. This will help get better flight characteristics for the arrow; This is referred to as tuning your setup, or getting all the parts to work together optimally.

Marv Long measures the Bear Grizzly AMO 58″, the ruler doesn’t go into the handle but goes straight across the flat of the limbs.

Shows that the AMO 58″ bow measures 57″ from string groove to string groove.

Show 4 sheets of different ages. The left arch is marked AMO 58″, the next arch is marked 60″ and the remaining two are unmarked for length. They are all Bear Archery Bows. The 3rd bow is a static recurve with aluminum lamination and a running bear logo. The 4th sheet is a laminated sheet signed by Nel’s Grumley with no weight or length on it.

Shows the bow is marked as an AMO 58″ bow and this bow measures 57″ from string groove to string groove, but as AMO St233andard it is properly tensioned with a 55″ AMO bowstring making it an AMO 58″ bow acts.

All arches not marked AMO measure the length marked on the arch i.e. (60″ arch).

Don’t forget to check out our sister site BowList.net for more links on bowstrings and cables.

The string on your traditional bow is just as important as the shafts or the bow itself. String selection is even more critical on a recurve (over a longbow) because more string material is in contact with the limb.

Our Bob Lee Bows come with a 16-strand Dynaflight 97 bowstring with #4 nylon serving. For our recurve strings, the loop sizes are 16 and 18. Loop sizes are important for the following reasons:

Without the larger loop on top, stringing your bow with a traditional string would be very difficult. The increased loop size allows the string to slide down the limb to string the bow.

The string grooves on our recurve and longbow limbs are sized to fit a variable loop string. The string grooves on the upper shank are longer to accommodate the larger loop. Vice versa on the lower leg/loop.

String loop sizes should match the string grooves in our limbs to ensure proper alignment and adequate limb protection. This proper fit helps the tendon and limbs stay in their proper place.

The long string groove on the limbs is hand cut to a specific size to accommodate a 16-strand string. If you shoot a string with too many strands, it won’t fit properly in the groove and the integrity of your limbs could be compromised.

String length is another critical consideration. The Archery Manufacturer and Merchant’s Organization (AMO) length of your bow is marked on the lower bow arc. To achieve the correct strut height, you must use a bowstring of the same AMO length. (Example: An AMO 62″ bow requires an AMO 62″ string). The actual length of your bowstring (depending on the material) will be 3.5″-5″ shorter than the AMO listed length.

When ordering replacement or additional strings for your Bob Lee bow, we encourage you to choose carefully to ensure optimal performance and protection for your bow.

Website: www.quicksarchery.co.uk Email: [email protected] Telephone: 02392 254114 Fax: 02392 251519

About bowstrings

There are many different bowstrings, how do you choose a bowstring for your bow

We stock a wide range of standard bowstrings to suit most bows. Standard bowstrings are made from durable materials such as B50 Dacron or Dacrogen with low stretch that provide reliable shooting while being kind to the bow and shooter. These strings are suitable for entry level and club level recurve bows through to competitive target, field and traditional archery.

Compound bows typically use more advanced, less stretchy materials for their bowstrings and cables. Call us for more information if you need compound bow strings.

To choose a standard string for your bow:

First, look at the draw weight of the bow.

Second, choose the number of strands in the string to match the draw weight of the bow.

For standard B50 Dacron (or Dacrogen) strings you should generally use:

10 strands of B50 Dacron (or 8 strands of Dacrogen) for bows up to 30 lbs

12 strands of B50 Dacron (or 10 strands of Dacrogen) for bows up to 40 lbs

14 strands of B50 Dacron (or 12 strands of Dacrogen) for heavier bows

More strands make the bowstring both heavier and stronger, and the thickness of the string also changes. This influences the position of the arrow nock. A 10-strand B50 string may need a smaller nock or the string grease at the nock point for entry-level darts to fit well. A 10-strand B50 silk may be the answer to getting far enough with a light bow. The most common number of strands used is the 12-strand B50 string, which offers a balance of size, weight, strength and nock fit. Larger 14-strand B50 strings are mostly used on heavier bows and where the extra weight of the bowstring acts as a light dampener to make the shooting smoother. With 14 strands, there may be a loss of distance, the bow shoots an arrow. Also, you may need a nock with a larger string groove in it.

Finally, choose the string length to match the bow length of your bow.

Many arcs have an arc length written on the bottom limb. For example something like 68″. If that’s the case, you can just pick a string for a 68″ bow. Alternatively, you can measure the length of the actual bowstring. This is generally in the range of 4.5 inches less than the arc length. Call us if you are unsure.

Advanced bowstringers are generally looking for more arrow speed for a given draw weight and arrow type. This is accomplished through the use of bowstring materials with little or no stretch. These are constantly evolving as manufacturers seek better performance from modern thread materials. Faster arrows fly flatter and are less affected by crosswinds with less time in the air. A flatter trajectory also means any archer error is minimized, whether it’s aiming or shooting. We stock Advanced strings in the most commonly used Advanced materials in the most commonly used bow sizes. Different materials have different strand thicknesses, so the number of strands can vary depending on the bow weight. See the individual string descriptions for details. Podium Strings and Reign Strings are good examples of Advanced Bowstrings and are made by shooters who have achieved good results in competitions in the UK

To select an advanced string for your bow: Choose from our stock selection; Material type, number of strands and length as for standard bowstrings.

If the Advanced Strings don’t meet your needs, or you have a specific size, color, number of strands, style of wrap, or any other reason you want a custom string, you can have us make a custom string for you

Custom strings for you. These can be in Dacron or Advanced Materials. Plain or striped. We can make a string to match your bow. When having a custom cord or cords made, you can choose from the following options: cord and portion materials, colors, strands, lengths, center portion positioning, and loop sizes. Usually if you tell us what you want, we can make it for you. Candy stripe thongs are popular with customers

How to select a custom string for your bow: select the custom string type or email or phone us your request if you don’t see one you would like.

These strings are usually made to your specifications within a few days

Stock strings for a specific bow such as the Classic Hunter or Horse Bows and Bearpaw Traditional Bows.

To choose a specialty string for your bow: Go to the specific string to view the available options.

Specialty strings are optimized for the specific bow they are designed for

Take a look at Easton’s Tuning and Maintenance Guide as a starting point

Explains where to place your arrow’s nock point and explains the basics of adjusting your bow’s bracing height for best performance.

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Visit our stores in Waterlooville and Honiton Tel: 023 92254114 Email: [email protected]

It’s no secret that today’s bows, as they become more technologically advanced, also make more noise when you draw them back and when you release the arrow. This has given effective string silencers a high priority. Here are some things that can result from properly muted bowstrings.

Reduces missed opportunities

If you have hunted for a long time, you know that there are no stupid animals. Deer, turkeys and other wild animals have an incredible sense of hearing. The slightest noise while preparing for a shot can startle them. Waiting a whole day for the game only to miss a shooting opportunity because you have a loud bow can be very frustrating.

Fewer injured animals

Many people hunt because of the excitement of successfully outwitting and taking down their favorite game. There’s also a downside for most hunters, and that’s that sick feeling of not getting a clean shot and seeing an animal flee in agony. Loud strings on bows can be a big factor in scaring your game, causing them to start moving as soon as you fire a shot. This often results in you hitting the animal differently than intended.

Reduces vibration

Many people don’t realize that most string silencers also reduce vibration when you shoot your bow. This makes them much more comfortable to hold while shooting. Less vibration also helps keep your bow correctly zeroed over a longer period of time.

Can increase arrow speed

Some companies say you can actually increase your arrow speed somewhat by adding string silencers to your bow. It’s not much, maybe just 1 to 3 feet per second. But when it comes to big game, every little penetrating power counts. We pointed out why it is important to have good string dampers on your bow. These solid rubber silencers give you the unobtrusive advantage you need on the hunt.

The Bowjax String Silencer reduce string noise by up to 90%. This improves your chances of getting a good first shot at your intended prey. Once they’re on, you’ll really notice the difference in noise levels when taking photos.

These tiny little silencers will do more than just silence your bow. The manufacturer claims that it actually increases your arrow speed when it leaves your bow (estimated at 1-3 fps). They also do a good job of reducing vibration when shooting.

Advantages:

An essential part of maintaining a bow – no matter what style you shoot: recurve, compound, traditional… – is waxing the string (and cable), but many archers neglect it.

The bowstring is key to the overall performance of the bow. After all, it is the device that sends the arrow to the target. Waxing a string prevents fraying, adds a waterproof element – prevents water from getting between strands – and retains twists.

(When water enters the string, the string becomes heavier – and the arrow exits the bow more slowly, affecting targets and grouping.)

A properly waxed bowstring will feel smooth and slightly tacky. If the string feels dry or starts to discolor or fray, it’s time to wax it again. Most top archers wax their strings every two to three weeks, plus before competition when rain is forecast.

If you notice loose strands or fraying, this string has gone way too far! Throw it away.

gear

In order to wax your bow properly, you must wax it properly. This must be done for all types of bows, including the four main ones: compound bows, crossbows, traditional bows, and longbows. String waxing extends string life by adding an extra layer of protection to prevent water damage, fraying, drying out, and flexibility issues. Applying wax to your bowstring is a fairly simple task and once you are comfortable with it, it can be completed in just a few minutes. Read on to better understand the steps you need to take to wax your bowstring.

So you know what to wax your string with

When you should wax your string depends on a variety of factors. This includes moisture, usage, cleanliness, etc. There really isn’t a perfect timeline to know when to wax your string, but there is a simple visual queue. If your string looks fuzzy, it needs waxing. You will eventually see that your string has small hair-like pieces sticking out from the strands of the string. When this occurs, it’s time to replace the string immediately. Without further ado: How to wax your string…

Step 1

Use a clean, dry cloth or soft brush to ensure your string is free of dirt or debris.

step 2

Apply wax to the entire bowstring. Most string wax comes in a stick like deodorant. Simply rub the stick up and down to apply wax.

step 3

Rub the bow wax into the string with your finger and thumb. You want to pinch the string with a decently strong grip and quickly rub the string up and down. The friction created by rubbing the string melts the wax and ensures that every gap is filled with wax. Note: DO NOT APPLY WAX TO SERVING.

step 4

Wipe off any excess material that has built up on the string with a dry cloth. Be sure to check the entirety of the string as well as the arrow impact points.

You have just successfully waxed your bowstring. This should be done fairly regularly, especially if your bow is used regularly.

Your bow needs care to perform at its best. It’s similar to a car whose oil and fluids need to be checked and replaced regularly, and tire pressure and treads need to be routinely monitored.

Your archery shop’s knowledgeable bow mechanics will keep your bow performing at peak performance. But how often should your bow be serviced? What needs repair and maintenance? Here’s what you need to know about caring for your bow.

General wear and tear

A bow is a mechanical device that wears out over time, and no part of the bow is subject to greater wear and tear than the bowstring. Bowstrings on recurves and compounds require constant maintenance and eventually replacement. Watching slow motion videos of a bow being shot, the violent action is mesmerizing. The tendon takes the brunt of the load and wears out over time.

You can extend the life of the tendon by taking care of it and storing it properly. Also, regularly apply bowstring wax, which is available at archery stores. This is an essential part of sheet maintenance. Each day before shooting, check your bowstring for anything that looks fuzzy and run your fingers up and down to see if it feels dry. If you experience either condition, apply wax to the bowstring and rub it in with your fingers until it completely fuses with the string.

Storing your bow in a climate-controlled environment will extend its life by preventing string stretching. If you have a recurve or longbow, remove its string between shooting sessions to prolong its life. A compound bow’s draw length, brace height, draw weight, and tuning settings are all affected by string stretch. High temperatures cause bowstrings to stretch quickly. Store your bow indoors where constant temperatures prevent unwanted string stretching.

The sheaths of the bowstring are also wear-resistant. Bowstring wraps are braided thread wrapped around your bowstring in high stress areas. You will notice folds in the middle of the bowstring where the arrow hits the string and at both ends where it attaches to the bow. Portions may loosen over time. If this happens, take your bow to a nearby bow shop for inspection. Archery technicians repair the serve or replace the string.

Replace bowstrings

Similar to car tires, bowstrings wear out over time. When should you replace them? It depends on the draw weight of the bow, how often you shoot it, how well it is maintained and what conditions it is regularly exposed to.

Properly maintained bowstrings can last about three years, after which time they should be replaced. The bowstring should also be replaced if it is frayed or has a broken string. If you are unsure about replacing your bowstring, visit an archery store for help. The best part about replacing a bowstring is that you can choose custom colors that will make your bow unique.

growth spurt

Young archers with growth spurts may find that their bow no longer fits properly. Because as archers grow, their bow must adjust with them for comfort and accuracy. Most youth bows are easy to adjust, which is best done at a bow shop by a bow technician.

Annual tune up

A lot happens in a year, so it’s a good idea to visit your favorite archery technician annually. Bowstrings stretch, parts come loose from vibration, and things get out of alignment. Bow technicians check your bow and retune everything. The downside is this: You can no longer blame the bow for bad shots.

Drops, spills and dry burns

Accidents happen to even experienced archers. If you drop or dry fire your bow, take it to a bowsmith immediately. A dry shot means shooting a bow without an arrow. Bows are not designed to shoot in the air. If you draw a bow and let go of the bowstring with no arrow loaded, all of the stored energy meant for the arrow goes straight into the bow. The noise is terrible.

Dry firing is scary and dangerous, but it happens. If you dry fire a bow, check yourself immediately for injuries. If you are unharmed, place the bow in a suitcase immediately. As it begins to fall apart, the bow case will contain its parts. Then drive to the bow shop for a technician to assess and repair your bow.

A well cared for bow gives years of pleasure. If your bow has been neglected and needs fine tuning, go to a bow shop. You will make it shoot like new again.

The Bear Grizzly is our most popular one-piece bow. It’s the same design since it was last modified in 1964. The price fits any budget while still offering great performance. The Bear Grizzly has an AMO length of 58 inches to allow for smooth shooting, yet is versatile for navigating the woods and getting the shots that longer bows won’t allow. A durable recurve hunting bow with solid performance.

Riser: Curved, undercut center shelf. Solid piece of red Dymondwood®. Including arrow rest and plate. Threaded with 1/4″ x 20 quiver inserts. Inlaid bear medallion.

Limbs: Clear maple core surrounded by black fiberglass.

String: Dacron Flemish Twist bowstring. Manufacturer recommended strut height: 7½” – 8½”. Replacement string length of 54″ recommended.

Available in 30#, 35#, 40#, 45#, 50#, 55# and 60# for the right hand and 45#, 50# and 55# for the left hand. Please specify.

Choose a left- or right-hand bow (choose depending on which hand you’re pulling the bowstring with) and bow weight at a 28″ draw length. Remember that with a traditional bow, the weight changes depending on the draw length. Bow weight will change approximately ±2½ pounds per inch from the nominal draw length of the bow. So a 45# @ 28″ bow is approximately 42½# @ 27″ or 48½# @ 29″. The draw weight is marked with the nearest 5 increment to the actual weight (2’s is under and 3’s is over). This is an industry wide Default.

Bear Archery AFT2086150 Grizzly Recurve 50#, brown limbs with clear maple ply and high tenacity black fiberglass back and top ply

Crowned, truncated middle arrow base

Comes with leather sideplate and bear hair arrow rest

Bear Archery is a long-standing and storied company – and we’ll talk about that below – but how is their grizzly recurve holding up? If you can believe it, its last design change was in 1964. So how does it compare to other high-end one-piece bows made today?

We’ll go through all of that below and talk about what we like about the Grizzly (and what we think you should consider if you’re interested). We’ll start with an overview and then go into detail:

SUMMARY: BEAR GRIZZLY RECURVE REVIEW

The Bear Grizzly is an aesthetically pleasing bow that, with proper care, can stand the test of time and accompany you on your journey from beginner to intermediate to advanced archer. It’s a great bow for the range, but it’s designed specifically for traditional hunting and has some great features for that: ports for a side-mounted quiver, a soft rest for carrying arrows, and a leather sideplate to ease that links a little. rightward movement that can happen in recurves. We strongly recommend that you know what draw weight you can draw as the Grizzly is a one piece bow and the draw weight cannot be changed once you have it. We’re big fans of Bear Archery and its history and think this can be a great option.

> Check price on Amazon < Now let's dive in... Strengths of the Bear Grizzly We'll be a little critical of this arc in the second half of this post, but for now we're going to get a little over-the-top, so let's start with what we think is obvious: The grizzly is a thing of beauty Yes, beauty is subjective, and what we find beautiful, you may not find beautiful. So, to be clear: Regardless of how you feel about the Grizzly, we find this bow extremely attractive. The design is sleek and streamlined, and the riser is a deep red maple color. The limbs feature black fiberglass on the belly and back, and the limb tips dramatically "re-curve" at the top and bottom of the bow. At the end of the day, we're form-over-function people because a bow has to work to be worthwhile, but it sure is nice when it looks good too. The grizzly really can be a lifelong bow Okay, NOW we can get down to the more important features: Bear Archery designed the Grizzly to be a bow that can last for many, many years. If you take good care of your grizzly, you can literally have them for decades. If you read the pages of Archery Talk you might find some old timers talking about how they still use a Bear Grizzly they bought in the 60's or 70's. That's not uncommon with one-piece bows like the Grizzly - they're built to last. A lot of great takedown bows have come out in the last few years and many of them, including the Samick Sage, can be great options. We recommend them and feel great to recommend them and from the feedback we've received people are very happy with them. But by their very nature, these takedown bows aren't meant to last forever — they're literally designed so you can detach the limbs and replace them. What you really get with these types of arches is a riser and not an arch. And that's one of the reasons we like bows like the Grizzly (as well as Bear's other legendary bow, the Bear Super Kodiak). If you've read our other reviews, you might find that we tend to "get nostalgic" about certain bows and certain traditions, and one-piece bows are probably the most traditional and oldest bows of all. It is versatile and you can use it for target shooting or bowhunting Aside from the Bear's durable quality, the second thing we like most about it is that it is a "dual purpose" bow: you can take it to the range for target shooting and you can take it hunting. And, to be honest... what bow can't you take with you to the shooting range? We always have a kind of chuckle when we see a review stating that a certain bow is great for target practice because you should at least be able to fire your bow at a target (and to be fair, we're describing also many bows as "good for aim" practice because there are many people looking for bows that need to be reminded that certain bows are good for shooting). But the real test of a bow is whether or not you can take it with you on a hunt. We have to be very careful with the bows we recommend, as some of them just aren't up to the task of taking down game. As you might have guessed, the Bear Grizzly is designed for bow hunting. It's compact in design - you'll find plenty of longer bows, but the Grizzly is quite short - and that's great for maneuvering in a hunting environment. It's made in a range of draw weights, allowing you to select the draw weight needed to defeat a specific wild (and we'll get into that a bit later as draw weight selection is important). It also has some neat design features that make bowhunting a little easier, and... It has a quiver connector to which you can attach a bow quiver It's a nice touch, as traditional one-piece bows didn't always have this feature. The Bear Grizzly has two accessory holes that allow you to add a side-mounted quiver to hold your arrows and this can save you a lot of heartache when using the bow for hunting. Having to fumble around in a hip quiver or back quiver when hunting for arrows can be an almost comical pursuit. When attaching a side quiver to the riser, we recommend that you make a decision - either leave it on or not - and then use the bow as much as possible. A side-mounted quiver can slightly affect the "feel" of the bow, and that can affect your shots, especially when shooting without a sight, as traditional archers so often do.

Bear Archery was founded in Detroit, Michigan in 1933 by Fred Bear and Charles Piper as the Bear Products Company. Initially, the focus was on screen printing and advertising support work for automotive companies. In 1938 Bear hired Nels Grumley, a woodworker and bowmaker, and the company expanded to offer handcrafted bows. Nels was a fantastic craftsman and his skill was reflected in the quality of the bows he made. Early on, every single bow Nels made was either stamped with his name or signed, along with the words “Bear Products by Grumley” or “Bear Archery by Grumley”.

Fred Bear sold the Bear Products Company advertising side in 1940 to focus on archery. The bow shop was renamed Bear Archery. In 1947 the company moved to a new facility in Grayling, Michigan. The Grayling factory focused on the manufacture and marketing of recurve and longbows. After observing Ben Pearson’s successful endeavors in machine-making bows, Bear transitioned from hand-made bows to mass-produced bows made from fiberglass and other modern materials.

Automation didn’t sit well with Grumley, Bear’s main old-school bowmaker. Grumley knew that mass-producing bows with machines, rather than making each bow individually by hand, was not what he wanted, and despite Bear’s attempt to keep him, Grumley left Bear in 1948. Nels started his own bowmaking business. However, his private venture only lasted two years before he took a job as a model maker with an equipment manufacturer. Not all Bear bows made in these early years were made by Nels. There were dozens of other bowmakers making Bear wood bows, mostly lower-line lemonwood models like the Ranger. These bows were simply labeled “Bear Archery” in writing. After Grumley’s departure, Bear began using the famous “Running Bear” decal.

After Nel’s departure, Fred transferred another employee named Bob Meeker to oversee the manufacture of the new bow lines. Although bows in those days were largely the result of machine work, Bob was considered a bowmaker in his own right.

The first new bow model introduced after Nels’ departure in 1949 was the Grizzly. Polar and Kodiak were introduced the following year, 1950.

Fred had been tinkering with various styles of knockdown and knockdown bows for 30 years when he began working on a new design in the mid 1960’s that required no tools for assembly/disassembly of the limb and riser sections. Finally, in August 1969, the Bear Take-Down Recurve went into production and made its first appearance in the 1970 catalogue. Unfortunately, the TD did not sell well and the line was discontinued after only 2 years.

Fred was an avid hunter and promoter. By traveling the world and producing films about bowhunting, the bear’s name and face became famous among archers and hunters. Bear was involved in the design, development and manufacturing processes of his company. The archery equipment has been carefully inspected and tested by men with expertise in bow making and years of experience in the industry. Bear received a patent for something called “Glass Power,” which was strands of fiberglass bonded together and running the full length of each arch. Skillful workmanship, quality materials and precision machinery resulted in a high demand for these well-made bows. Bear’s various models of Kodiak bows became bestsellers and are still highly regarded today.

Fred Bear sold the company to Victor Comptometer in 1968 but remained president. From 1968 to the present, Bear has changed hands half a dozen times.

Bear wrote or starred in three books during his lifetime. The first was The Archer’s Bible in 1968. Many thousands of copies of this book were sold many years after its introduction. The next book was Fred Bear’s Field Notes, first published in 1976. It details many of Fred’s notable hunting adventures. The third book was Fred Bear’s World of Archery, published in 1979. This was a comprehensive book on archery and Fred’s involvement in it. Red Bear was also the first president of Michigan’s oldest archery club, the Detroit Archers.

Fred struggled with chronic emphysema later in life and suffered a heart attack while living in Florida and was admitted to a Gainesville hospital. He stayed in the hospital for a month and died on April 27, 1988 after suffering another heart attack. His body was cremated and his ashes scattered near the AuSable River in northern Michigan, where he enjoyed fly fishing.

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Website: www.quicksarchery.co.uk Email: [email protected] Telephone: 02392 254114 Fax: 02392 251519

About bowstrings

There are many different bowstrings, how do you choose a bowstring for your bow

We stock a wide range of standard bowstrings to suit most bows. Standard bowstrings are made from durable materials such as B50 Dacron or Dacrogen with low stretch that provide reliable shooting while being kind to the bow and shooter. These strings are suitable for entry level and club level recurve bows through to competitive target, field and traditional archery.

Compound bows typically use more advanced, less stretchy materials for their bowstrings and cables. Call us for more information if you need compound bow strings.

To choose a standard string for your bow:

First, look at the draw weight of the bow.

Second, choose the number of strands in the string to match the draw weight of the bow.

For standard B50 Dacron (or Dacrogen) strings you should generally use:

10 strands of B50 Dacron (or 8 strands of Dacrogen) for bows up to 30 lbs

12 strands of B50 Dacron (or 10 strands of Dacrogen) for bows up to 40 lbs

14 strands of B50 Dacron (or 12 strands of Dacrogen) for heavier bows

More strands make the bowstring both heavier and stronger, and the thickness of the string also changes. This influences the position of the arrow nock. A 10-strand B50 string may need a smaller nock or the string grease at the nock point for entry-level darts to fit well. A 10-strand B50 silk may be the answer to getting far enough with a light bow. The most common number of strands used is the 12-strand B50 string, which offers a balance of size, weight, strength and nock fit. Larger 14-strand B50 strings are mostly used on heavier bows and where the extra weight of the bowstring acts as a light dampener to make the shooting smoother. With 14 strands, there may be a loss of distance, the bow shoots an arrow. Also, you may need a nock with a larger string groove in it.

Finally, choose the string length to match the bow length of your bow.

Many arcs have an arc length written on the bottom limb. For example something like 68″. If that’s the case, you can just pick a string for a 68″ bow. Alternatively, you can measure the length of the actual bowstring. This is generally in the range of 4.5 inches less than the arc length. Call us if you are unsure.

Advanced bowstringers are generally looking for more arrow speed for a given draw weight and arrow type. This is accomplished through the use of bowstring materials with little or no stretch. These are constantly evolving as manufacturers seek better performance from modern thread materials. Faster arrows fly flatter and are less affected by crosswinds with less time in the air. A flatter trajectory also means any archer error is minimized, whether it’s aiming or shooting. We stock Advanced strings in the most commonly used Advanced materials in the most commonly used bow sizes. Different materials have different strand thicknesses, so the number of strands can vary depending on the bow weight. See the individual string descriptions for details. Podium Strings and Reign Strings are good examples of Advanced Bowstrings and are made by shooters who have achieved good results in competitions in the UK

To select an advanced string for your bow: Choose from our stock selection; Material type, number of strands and length as for standard bowstrings.

If the Advanced Strings don’t meet your needs, or you have a specific size, color, number of strands, style of wrap, or any other reason you want a custom string, you can have us make a custom string for you

Custom strings for you. These can be in Dacron or Advanced Materials. Plain or striped. We can make a string to match your bow. When having a custom cord or cords made, you can choose from the following options: cord and portion materials, colors, strands, lengths, center portion positioning, and loop sizes. Usually if you tell us what you want, we can make it for you. Candy stripe thongs are popular with customers

How to select a custom string for your bow: select the custom string type or email or phone us your request if you don’t see one you would like.

These strings are usually made to your specifications within a few days

Stock strings for a specific bow such as the Classic Hunter or Horse Bows and Bearpaw Traditional Bows.

To choose a specialty string for your bow: Go to the specific string to view the available options.

Specialty strings are optimized for the specific bow they are designed for

Take a look at Easton’s Tuning and Maintenance Guide as a starting point

Explains where to place your arrow’s nock point and explains the basics of adjusting your bow’s bracing height for best performance.

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Visit our stores in Waterlooville and Honiton Tel: 023 92254114 Email: [email protected]