Best Axe Sharpening File? The 68 Correct Answer

I felt compelled to write this post because there are some crazy people out there… and it scares me! Can an ax be too sharp? I’ve heard similar questions on Google: Can a ball be too round? Can a swimming pool be too wet? It’s brilliant! Who’s typing this stuff?

But actually there is some relevance to this particular question…

There seems to be some confusion as to how sharp an ax should be. A cleaver should be razor sharp – but a splitting hammer doesn’t have to be sharp, it should be blunt. Or an ax blade should be sharp enough to cut toilet paper, or you should have a “working edge,” not a razor blade. Or you should have a thin sharp edge, not a thick sharp edge…

An ax should be sharp – as sharp as possible. Depending on the type of ax and profile of the blade, proper sharpening CAN result in an edge you can shave with. But with some ax types, that’s just not necessary.

A TOO sharp ax has been sharpened too much and the bit has been weakened. This can happen if you ignore the blade’s existing bevel and file away at too tight an angle. You WILL get a razor sharp edge, but it’s of no use for serious ax work.

You have to check out this great ax sharpening video by Wranglerstar. He impressively demonstrates how to sharpen a Gransfors Bruk against a Fiskars axe… with a unique sharpener!

Should an ax be razor sharp?

There are many different types of axes, and in general they should be as sharp as possible. A cleaver, for example, is designed to chop INTO the fibers of a tree or log to fell or shred wood – so it makes sense to have the blade as sharp as possible. As razor sharp as possible. An ax used to split logs for the fire still needs to be sharp, but these are designed to split ALONG the grain of the wood, so it’s a different tool for a different job.

Sure you could spend an hour giving your crevice tool a really sharp edge, but you’ll be wasting your time. It is not necessary for splitting wood. Axes and hatchets should be razor sharp. They are useful for intricate work like carving, limbing small branches, lighting firewood, and performing chores around the camp, much like a cutlass.

Cleaving Axes and Hammers – not so much. The big takeaway from this is this: learn how to properly sharpen your axes – do it regularly, use the right ax for the purpose it was designed for and you will succeed!

What the pros say

An Ax To Grind by Bernie Weisgerber is the US Forestry Service’s acclaimed guide to everything you need to know about axes. This is what Bernie says about the ax sharpness:

Always check the ax for sharpness. A sharpened ax cuts faster, is safer to use, and stays sharp longer… If you’ve followed the directions, your edge should be sharp enough to shave with. I sometimes check the sharpness by carefully dry-shaving the hair on the back of my hand. This is a traditional method that has been used in the forest for years.

So if you can achieve a razor sharp edge on your ax it will be a more effective cutting tool. Read my article on ax sharpening here: How to sharpen an ax – a step-by-step guide

How often should I sharpen my axe?

Any time you use your axe, especially for heavy work like chopping down trees, it’s important to spend a little time repairing the damage you’ve caused. My preferred method is a file to sharpen and a sharpening puck to sharpen the edge.

Just 10 minutes of grooming after work is a great way to relax and take care of your axe. This keeps it in optimal shape for the next day.

Conclusion

An ax should be as sharp as possible, and learning how to properly sharpen your ax will ensure your cutting tools have a razor sharp edge. As with any hand tool, regular maintenance is the best way to ensure your ax is kept up and running.

Can an ax be too sharp? Unless you’ve filed this piece so hard it’s become the world’s sharpest wafer, you should be good. An ax used to chop wood needs to be as sharp as possible – razor sharp! So hone your own sharpening skills to get your axes on point and be ready for anything.

Please comment below with suggestions on how this article could be improved or any questions you may have. I’m happy to help!

Be happy! You’ve just sharpened your ax and it’s ready for some serious business. If you want, check the sharpness of the edge by cutting a piece of paper with it.

This is a good time to mention that you should never run your fingers over the edge of an ax blade, even a blunt one. This is also a good time to mention that I’m not a professional. This is the process I use to sharpen my axe. Of course, you always have to be careful with angle grinders and axes. I take no responsibility for any injuries that may occur.

The splitting ax is important for both the occasional firewood cutter and the regular lumberjack. It’s a useful tool when you need to break pieces of wood into smaller pieces. But how sharp should your splitting ax be?

A splitting ax should be sharp enough to avoid ricocheting when hitting harder pieces of wood. It doesn’t have to be razor sharp as it splits wood along the grain. However, some woodworkers prefer very sharp splitting axes. The key is to keep the ax sharp enough to ensure efficiency.

In this article, you’ll learn about the importance of a sharp splitting ax, the sharpness you need to achieve, and how to keep yours sharp for any job.

Table of Contents

Why you need to sharpen a splitting ax

All woodworkers understand the need to keep any bladed or bit-inclusive tools used in their workshop sharp and rust-free. The Splitting Ax is no different.

With a sharp splitting ax you need to use less brute force when breaking wood. You can achieve cleaner splits with less effort. It probably doesn’t matter how the logs turn out when you’re splitting wood for firewood.

However, when splitting wood for craft or construction use, getting a clean split from the ground up can save you time and energy on smoothing.

A sharp splitting ax speeds up the process, while a blunt one can take more time to get the job done. With a sharp splitting ax it only takes a hit or two to split a piece of wood.

If the ax is dull or not sharp enough, you may need multiple hits. The ax piece bounces off pieces of wood multiple times, which can be frustrating.

You also have to worry about slips that can damage the surface you are working on. If you are not prepared for the jump, it could also be dangerous for you and everyone around you.

Even a not sharp splitting ax is bad for your health. You will be putting more pressure on your arms, lower back, and spine than necessary.

If you use one of these regularly, there is a risk of breakage or worse damage. A sufficiently sharp splitting ax will seamlessly complement your efforts and reduce stress on your body.

How sharp should your splitting ax be?

Your splitting ax should be sharp enough to go through the piece of wood you are working on without rebounding. It should also be sharp enough to ensure you don’t expend more energy or force than is necessary to get the job done.

With this in mind, it is easy to understand why there is no consensus among woodworkers on this matter. People will give advice from their point of view. However, you are the one using the axe.

The sharpness of your splitting ax should be directly proportional to the average difficulty of the job you intend to do with it. If you only work on softwoods, you don’t need to sweat over the sharpness. For regular hardwood projects, the ax needs to be as sharp as possible.

Benefits of using a splitting axe

As mentioned above, you can use a splitting ax to cut large pieces of wood into smaller chunks. However, what are the main benefits of using this ax when a few other tools can get the job done?

A splitting ax is cheap. You can take your logs to a mill to have them split into smaller pieces, but it can get expensive. Industrial machines cost thousands of dollars, so business owners tend to charge high but reasonable fees for the job. You don’t have to spend hundreds of dollars to get the job done with a splitting ax.

It offers a good workout. Use your splitting ax a few hours a week if you’re looking to tone your arms, chest, and back. If you don’t want to build muscle, the exercise from the splitting sessions is good for your cardio health.

It’s durable. A splitting ax is similar to other types of axes. It consists of a wooden handle and a bit. There are no complicated moving parts to worry about, so if you keep it rust-free and sharp it can last for decades.

It’s less noisy. A splitting ax at work in a quiet environment is far more tolerable than a chainsaw or any power tool.

How to sharpen your splitting axe

The first step to sharpening your splitting ax is to gather all the tools you need.

Some of the tools you will need include the following:

hone steel

protective gloves

safety goggles

hand stone (wet or dry)

Hand file (flat fine-cut version)

disc sander

grinding wheel

You don’t need all of these tools. You just need the right combination depending on the method you want to use.

Below you will see the different methods, starting with the simplest.

Use only a hand file

If you only have a hand file, this is the easiest way to sharpen your splitting ax. The procedure is as follows:

Place your splitting ax on a flat, sideways surface with the sharp edge pointing away from you. Rub the ax blade with the flat hand file. Maintain slightly angled upward movements. Once you’re done with one side of the ax, flip it over and repeat the process.

However, it will take longer to sharpen your splitting ax using this method.

Use a grinder and a whetstone

You will need a grinder and a grindstone for this method. Here’s what to do:

Set up your mill. Lock the grinder in place with a C-clamp. Turn on the machine and brush the ax blade against the wheel on each side for 10 seconds. Pour some water on the whetstone. Hold the ax head firmly away from your body. Rub the whetstone in a circular motion over the freshly sharpened edge of the axe. Repeat the number of circular motions on the side of the ax drill.

When using the whetstone, use the dark side for the damaged parts of the ax blade and the lighter side for other parts.

This difficult method requires most of the tools listed above. You should only choose this procedure if you are trying to bring an old rusty splitting ax back into shape.

Here’s what to do:

Sharpen the ax using the procedure listed in method one. Implement steps 5-7 in method two. Even out rough edges with honing steel by pressing the drill bit against the steel a few times (about 7-10 times). Use the honing steel on the other side of the bit.

Tips for sharpening the splitting ax

Wear suitable protective gloves and protect your eyes from flying fragments.

Use a 12″ (30.48 cm) file as it will be easier to control while you work.

Make sure the edge is next to the handle when sharpening.

Keep the perfect balance when sharpening. You can keep a test piece of wood nearby to test for sharpness.

Avoid making the ax too sharp or you will have a hard time pulling it out of the wood.

After each session, oil the bit before storing it away. It will help reduce the number of sharpening sessions you need in a year.

Final Thoughts

A splitting ax is an invaluable tool for anyone who chops wood and lives in the wilderness. The beauty lies in the simplicity; it remained relatively unchanged for hundreds of years!

Keep your splitting ax sharp, take care of your tools and they’ll take care of you. Thank you for reading!

You may also like: Tomahawk vs. Machete, which is the best light-bladed tool?

Best Overall: Sharp Pebble Premium Whetstone

Pros: Two grits, a non-slip base, and an affordable price make this a must-have tool for any kitchen.

Cons: This artificial water stone needs to be soaked in water before each use.

For the price, quality, and the obvious benefit of having two sharpening stones for the price of one, this is a fantastic option for beginners and intermediate users alike. This double-ended sharpener is a true whetstone – meaning you need to soak it in water before using it. It’s available in two grits: medium, to bring dull knives back to life, and superfine, to help you achieve a razor-sharp edge. The bamboo holder is supported by a non-slip silicone base that helps keep it in place for safe maneuvering. A knife sharpening angle guide helps users maintain the right pressure at a perfect angle, which is one of the biggest challenges of sharpening knives at home.

Honing oil is a liquid, solution, or emulsion used to aid in the cutting or grinding of metal, typically by abrasive tools or stones, and may or may not contain oil. It can also be called machining oil, tool oil, cutting fluid and cutting oil.

Related to hand blade sharpening, honing oil is used on a whetstone to protect the stone, carry away debris (shavings), and produce a sharp edge more efficiently on a metal blade such as a knife. In a machine shop, it also dissipates excess heat and, depending on its composition, can prevent accidental cracking and welding of the metal. Or when used with materials such as soft copper, it may contain additional additives to prevent scale loading, or metal deactivators to prevent discoloration of copper containing alloys combined with high-pressure additives. Industrial honing oil is typically available in 5-gallon pails, 55-gallon drums, 275-gallon, and 330-gallon containers, while household knife honing oils typically come in 1-ounce, 4-ounce, and 12-ounce bottles are available.

background [edit]

There are many different types of honing oils to meet different needs. It is important to use the appropriate solution for the job. When sharpening knives, motor oil is too thick or too heavy and can over-smear or clog a whetstone, while WD-40 is too light an oil and won’t carry the metal shavings and stone dust (collectively known as shavings). away from the stone and clog it up. If you don’t use oil at all, the stone will also clog or glaze, which in turn reduces its cutting power. Sperm whale oil, neatsfoot oil and other animal fats used to be popular.

In the past, oils were sometimes used exclusively because the steels of the time with a high carbon content, such as e.g. 1095, could rust with simple water-based solutions, and the term honing oil is now used even for water-based honing solutions.

Commercial honing oil, light sewing machine oil, or in a pinch heavier oil diluted with paint thinner (white spirit) or kerosene is recommended by veteran Swedish woodcarver Wille Sundqvist.[1] He further suggests, “Kerosene alone works well on fine, hard rocks.”

Composition [ edit ]

The two most common classes of honing oils are petroleum based (typically mineral oils) and non-petroleum based (typically water or vegetable oil). Common additives are chlorine, sulfur, rust inhibitors and detergents.

Honing oil has just the right consistency for whetstones. It will not stick or glaze and will provide just enough lubrication to prevent premature wear of the stone.

References[edit]

^ Sundqvist, Will (1990). Swedish woodcarving techniques.

If there is rust on your axe, clean it with a rust eraser or steel wool. Further polishing is mainly a matter of aesthetics, but not too difficult to accomplish:

Clamp the ax in a vise. Clamp the ax horizontally for easier filing, or vertically for a more even edge (since it lets you switch sides). If you’re clamping horizontally, you may want to tilt the ax to the angle of the bevel (usually 20 or 30º) so you can keep the file parallel to the table. It’s easier than judging the right angle.

A 10–12″ (25–30 cm) bastard milling file (coarse, single cut, and slightly tapered) is the best choice for most axes. Shorter bastard files don’t have the same tooth density, so length isn’t really an issue convenience You can use a smaller hatchet milling file.

Most axes have a slightly convex edge, about 20-30º. Wider, more convex edges work better on hardwood or frozen wood because the curvature pushes wood out of the way to protect the edge. Carving axes have a straight, triangular tip. Decide on the shape of your ax before you start sharpening, and keep an eye on the cutting edge as it develops. In most cases you will want to match the existing bevel and follow the curve of the blade to remove an even layer of metal.

6

File into the blade in one smooth motion. Hold the file handle in the palm of your dominant hand with your thumb resting on top. Wrap the fingers of your other hand around the tip of the file. Stand with one foot well in front of the other so you can use your shoulders to push the file. To prevent the file from rocking back and forth, guide the file with your front hand, then gently transition into a push with the handle at the end of the stroke.

How to take care of your Rataxe

Never use a high-speed dry bench grinder to sharpen your axe. They can easily damage the temper and ruin the tool, making the steel too soft to last an age. An old-style pedal whetstone that says it’s wet with water works well. Most people don’t have access to one of these, so we recommend using a file and whetstone.

Be sure to wear thick leather gloves throughout the process.

Protect your file with a piece of leather, wood, or a fire hose. Clamp the ax to your workbench at a comfortable height. Always file or grind into the edge of the axe.

Sharpen on the thrust and lift the file off the ax blade on the return stroke. Try to create a fan-shaped effect on the ax jaw. File back from the cutting edge to the middle if you feel a metal burr on the back.

Flip the ax and repeat the process on the second side. File that side (sharpen on thrust and lift file off blade on return) until the burr merges back onto the first side of the axe. Stop and check the shape with a sharpening gauge. Ideally the angle should be around 25 degrees (and slightly convex).

Continue filing both sides of the blade evenly until the sharpening gauge pattern matches perfectly. Next, it’s time for your whetstone to do its job: sharpening the edge.

Store your ax in a dry place out of direct sunlight. Ideally, a dry and slightly cool storage location works best. Keep the ax head lightly oiled during storage to prevent rusting.

Always wear eye protection when using your axe – or any other Council Tool product.

Which honing oil should I use?

Which sharpening oil is best for my sharpening stones?

As we illustrate in our article: Should I use my whetstones wet or dry? Sharpening stones work best when used wet with some type of grinding fluid. For stones like Arkansas, Crystolon, India and other oil stones, oil is the preferred liquid. Since there are many types of oil, we are often asked which oil is best to use.

All of the honing oils we carry are specially formulated for stone grinding.

The honing oils we sell all contain highly refined mineral oil. Mineral oil is an ideal sharpening candidate because it’s lightweight and doesn’t harden or go rancid. A light oil is desirable because a heavy or viscous oil will interfere with the abrasiveness of the stone.

A non-hardening oil is required because, like most vegetable oils, a hardening oil will clog a stone and reduce its efficiency. Mineral oil also has no unpleasant odors or noxious fumes, making it safe to work with.

While using a vegetable oil can be tempting, we strongly encourage you to resist this highly available alternative. We often get calls from customers who have used vegetable oil on their stones in the past and who now have their stones rubberized. By the time they call us, the damage will be done. The old adage that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure certainly applies here.

Our lightweight, non-hardening and safe to work with oil can be used effectively on your oil stones. Using the right oil not only makes sharpening easier, but also greatly increases the longevity of your stones.

The sharper your axe, the easier, faster and more enjoyable your work will be. Splitting axes or hammers do not have to be so sharp, because they are intended to split logs and logs with blunt force, not cut into them. But the rest – hatchets, felling axes, limbing axes, tomahawks and more – need to be sharp to work as well as you want them to.

In this in-depth article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about ax sharpening, from preparation to proper technique and how to use the tools you have on hand, whether they’re human-made (like files and whetstones) or electric operated, such as Dremel tools, belt sanders or even bench grinders. Read on to learn all about ax sharpening!

If you’re interested in ax sharpeners (which work for other bladed objects as well), here’s a list of 5 great ax sharpeners.

Preparation for ax sharpening

When sharpening your ax you should wear some kind of gloves. There’s no need to go overboard with thick gloves – it can actually make the process more cumbersome and time-consuming. A pair of lightweight cotton gloves will protect your hands and fingers from nicks and cuts that can be nasty when you get your ax very sharp.

If you’re sharpening your ax indoors, you should also wear a dust mask. If you plan to use power tools – a respirator and metal dust protection goggles or goggles are a necessity, not a luxury.

Apartment Prepper Sharpen a knife… Please enable JavaScript Apartment Prepper Sharpen a knife without a sharpener

If your ax is rusty, you should remove the rust before sharpening it. This can be done with steel wool, a rust eraser or coarse-grain sandpaper. Using sandpaper, apply even pressure and rub it from the ax head handle to the blade. You can sand it down with finer and finer grades of sandpaper until it shines.

Place your ax on a flat surface or clamp it in a vise if you have one available. Of course you might be reading this on your phone in the woods and wondering where to find a flat surface to rest your ax on. In this case, you can also hold it upright and place it firmly on the ground or on a stump. Some people hold the ax in their lap or hold the ax head in their hands. The main thing is to keep it steady while you work on it with your tools.

A whetstone or whetstone is a great way to give your ax the sharpest edge

1. How to sharpen an ax with a file

The file does the initial rough work of shaping the edge and profile of the ax blade. I like to use any file that is between 8″ and 12″ (or 200 and 300mm) long. The best choice is a bastard milling file, as it is made for sharpening blades.

The file I use for example is a Bahco 8 inch bastard milling file which has a handy handle and is made in Portugal, in Europe, and is therefore of a much better quality than the cheap files that are made in Europe be Mexico or China. With shorter files, the “teeth” aren’t set at the same density, and you won’t get as good an effect. However, you can use shorter files for hatchets.

Unless the shape of your ax is severely deformed, you should leave the ax blade as it is. Most axes have a convex shape of 20º to 30º. Follow the curve of the blade and apply even pressure with each pull of the file. You can hold your file in the classic way with one hand. You can also sharpen by grasping the handle of the file with your non-dominant hand and the tip of the file with your dominant hand and pulling toward you in a sweeping motion. This is called the drawing method of submission.

If your ax is fairly dull, you’re going to be doing a lot of file work. When filing the edge of a dull ax, you actually want to curve it away from the file. This creates what is known as a “burr,” a slight overhang on the edge of the blade that curves away from the file. You should be able to feel it with the pad of your finger or catch your fingernail with it easily. Once you’ve created an overhang – being careful not to change the angle of the blade too much – repeat the process on the other side. But be careful not to curve the edge too far in one direction – so that I don’t go overboard, I usually limit myself to a few passes on one side and switch to the other after two or three passes with the file.

Continue working the file until the edge is straight and free of chips, dents, or other scoring. Remove the burr by making several passes on both sides of the edge with the file, switching sides on each pass. You may still have a small burr on one side or the other – don’t worry about it, you can remove it in the next step.

Once you’ve created a proper edge, you’ll want to sharpen it with a whetstone, also known as a whetstone. If your ax already has a decent edge, you can skip to this step without using the file.

2. How to sharpen an ax with a whetstone

A whetstone, also known as a whetstone, is a great way to get your ax sharp enough to shave. There are different types of whetstones, here is a quick overview:

Grindstones up to and including 1000 grit are coarse and are used to sharpen chipped edges.

1000 to 3000 grit stones are used to sharpen dull edges.

4000 to 8000 grit whetstones are used to finish the blade and refine the edge to perfection.

If you want to buy a sharpening stone, I recommend buying a double-sided one with 1000 grit on one side and 3000 or more on the other, or 3000/8000 if you want a sharpening stone. Your ax doesn’t need to be as sharp and delicate as a Japanese kitchen knife, so don’t worry about that too much. I use two types of whetstones.

At home I use a Sharp Pebble 2-sided 1000/6000 grit water stone – it’s cheaper than the big brand stones and works just as well. Because it’s a water stone, you don’t need any special sharpening oils to sharpen your axe, just water, which is usually plentiful at home or in the bush. No oiliness to clean either.

In the bush, however, I take my Fallkniven DC4 “dry” sharpening stone with me. With this stone you don’t need water which is great if you live in a drier climate or just don’t want to search the bush for water or give up the drinking water you have.

Anyway, once you have your whetstone in hand and your ax blade is coated with honing oil or water (depending on what type of stone you have), you will want to place the stone against the blade. Rub it against the edge in a circular motion, applying even pressure, going from end to end. Repeat on the other side, switching to the finer grindstone (or finer side) when you feel the burr has become a “feathered” burr to remove it completely.

And let’s go!

When you’re done sharpening, you can apply a protective coat of oil, beeswax, or even petroleum jelly to the head and blade of your ax to keep moisture out.

3. How to sharpen an ax with a stone

If you’re prepared, you’re unlikely to find yourself in a situation where you need to sharpen an ax with a rock or river rock you find out in the bush. However, life can surprise us, and even the most experienced lumberjacks can get into a bad situation. You can lose your ax or even your entire pack in a raging river, or drop it down a steep ridge or cliff. An abandoned cabin in the woods with a rusty ax might be your only refuge and source of survival tools afterwards. Who knows. In any case, sharpening an ax is possible with a simple stone or river stone.

Here are the types of stones you can use:

Large, relatively smooth rocks that you can lay on the ground and edge-slash with the ax in both hands.

Smaller stones, coarser (granite) or smoother (quartz).

Medium-hard sandstone.

River stones are best for sharpening an axe. You sharpen the cutting edge just like you would with an industrially manufactured whetstone – because what do you think is a natural whetstone? Starting with the coarser stone, wet the stone and blade and make circular motions up and down the length of the blade. Then move on to the smoother stone once you’ve finished it with the coarse stone. Decently hard sandstone (not too crumbly) is also great for sharpening an axe, and can be just as good as the off-the-shelf products.

The bottom line is – if you find yourself in the bush with a dull axe, don’t despair! It’s easy to sharpen your ax with a stone or river stone once you know how to sharpen a hatchet.

4. How to sharpen an ax with a Dremel tool

Sharpening an ax with power tools is a quick way to get it nice and sharp. However, careless sharpening can result in your ax being deformed and damaged to the point where it is virtually useless. However, if you do have them and want to use them, here’s how to sharpen an ax using power tools like dremels, belt grinders, and angle grinders.

Many people have Dremel tools lying around at home or in their workshop. These are great little tools and can sharpen an ax quickly. You can also damage your ax with it, so use a dremel to properly sharpen your ax.

You’ll need a suitable dremel head – most people use aluminum oxide whetstones. This is a great product from the original manufacturer of Dremel, which means you have some guarantee of quality at a great price. You can get it on Amazon and probably many local stores.

Wear protective gear – long sleeve shirt, goggles and preferably a dust mask when working in an enclosed area. Keep a bucket or bowl of water handy to dip the ax head in to keep it from overheating and losing control, which is a real hazard when using power tools.

When you’re done, turn on the Dremel and lay the head flat against the edge of the ax head, following the bevel of the axe. Run the dremel along the edge, making circular motions as you would with a sharpening stone. If the metal feels hot to the touch (too hot to put your finger on it), stop! Leave to cool or immerse in water. Otherwise, you risk the metal losing its temper. This makes your ax blade more prone to chipping, denting and scratching.

Here’s a tip – overheating is usually caused by trying to sharpen a coarser grit with a finer grit. If you have a rusty axe, don’t start with a 6000 grit sanding head on the Dremel. This quickly heats the metal to dangerous temperatures. Instead, start with a coarser grit head and progress to a finer grit for further sharpening and finishing, just like with a sharpening stone. This also applies to belt sanders.

Repeat the process on the other side of the edge, switching to a finer grit Dremel head if needed. The important thing is to follow the bevel or angle of the edge with your Dremel tool. If you don’t, you risk changing the angle of that section of the edge entirely, and it’s an absolute chore to fix. Still, it’s going to take quite a bit of effort to ruin an ax blade with a Dremel tool, so don’t worry too much – just be careful.

5. How to sharpen an ax with a belt grinder

A belt grinder is a powerful tool for sharpening an axe. If you use one to sharpen your axe, make sure you wear protective gear like gloves, goggles, and preferably a dust mask if you’re doing this indoors.

Once you have your belt sander set up and running, you should grasp your ax head with both hands and run it across the sander in a gentle sweeping motion, carefully following the edge and curve of the bit. Don’t press down too hard, but don’t be afraid to apply pressure either – the key is to apply the pressure evenly without rushing but without pressing the blade against the grinder for too long. Gentle passes – keeping the ax head moving – are the key to a sharp, consistent edge. Keep a bucket or bowl of water (or a spray bottle) handy to cool your ax head and keep it from losing its temper.

Remember – match the sandpaper to the condition of your axe! A rusty, dull ax will require coarser sandpaper. Finer grit sandpaper is also more risky in terms of overheating the ax head. Be careful not to use too fine a grit if you have a dull and rusty ax head. Up to 1000 is generally fine for belt sanders – if you want to get a fine edge I would recommend switching to a finer grindstone once you get a nice edge off the belt sander!

6. How to sharpen an ax with an angle grinder

An angle grinder is the last power tool we consider for sharpening an axe. You should fix the ax with clamps or a vise. I put a block of wood under the ax head to make it easier to follow the bevel. The procedure is the same as with other tools – follow the angle of the edge as closely as you can, and use smooth, steady motions as you run the angle grinder over the ax bit. You should not do multiple passes on one side in a row as you risk damaging the bevel with a tool as powerful as an angle grinder.

Concentrate on the work at hand and remember to frequently wet the metal to cool it down.

What is the best way to sharpen an ax? I still believe that the best way to sharpen an ax is the old-fashioned way – by hand with simple tools like files and whetstones. There’s little chance of damaging your axe, like a power tool, and it doesn’t take much longer either – if the ax is given even reasonably decent care, it shouldn’t take much more than 5 minutes to re-sharpen it. Some ax users swear by their power tools to sharpen their edges – and if you want to change the profile of your axe, thin the bolsters, and decrease the angle of the blade, power tools get the job done faster. Power tools are fine if you know how to use them. You may have to sacrifice an ax or two to get the hang of it, so don’t use a belt sander or angle grinder on your new Gransfors Bruks or your grandfather’s American felling ax if you’ve never done it before! How sharp should an ax be? Your ax should be as sharp as possible. Some types of axes, such as Tools like a splitting hammer don’t need to be sharp at all – in fact, they work better when blunt. But in general, chopping axes with a whetstone up to 8000 grit will give you a razor-sharp edge. This will greatly improve the depth at which you can penetrate the wood and increase the speed at which you can split firewood or fell a tree. A properly sharpened ax should be sharp enough to shave with. A recommendation from a lumberjack buddy of mine is to sharpen your ax every 30 minutes. This keeps it in top condition and increases your chopping efficiency. “One minute of sharpening can cut your chopping time by 5 minutes,” Mors Kochanski, author of Bushcraft.

Hopefully this article was helpful – if it was and you enjoyed it, check out the rest of our ax buying and care guides. Thank you for reading!

If there is rust on your axe, clean it with a rust eraser or steel wool. Further polishing is mainly a matter of aesthetics, but not too difficult to accomplish:

Clamp the ax in a vise. Clamp the ax horizontally for easier filing, or vertically for a more even edge (since it lets you switch sides). If you’re clamping horizontally, you may want to tilt the ax to the angle of the bevel (usually 20 or 30º) so you can keep the file parallel to the table. It’s easier than judging the right angle.

A 10–12″ (25–30 cm) bastard milling file (coarse, single cut, and slightly tapered) is the best choice for most axes. Shorter bastard files don’t have the same tooth density, so length isn’t really an issue convenience You can use a smaller hatchet milling file.

Most axes have a slightly convex edge, about 20-30º. Wider, more convex edges work better on hardwood or frozen wood because the curvature pushes wood out of the way to protect the edge. Carving axes have a straight, triangular tip. Decide on the shape of your ax before you start sharpening, and keep an eye on the cutting edge as it develops. In most cases you will want to match the existing bevel and follow the curve of the blade to remove an even layer of metal.

6

File into the blade in one smooth motion. Hold the file handle in the palm of your dominant hand with your thumb resting on top. Wrap the fingers of your other hand around the tip of the file. Stand with one foot well in front of the other so you can use your shoulders to push the file. To prevent the file from rocking back and forth, guide the file with your front hand, then gently transition into a push with the handle at the end of the stroke.