Best Bit For A Horse That Bolts? Top 42 Best Answers

Which bit for my horse? A common dilemma

It is extremely important to ensure that all of your horse’s bridle fits properly. Ill-fitting gear can lead to discomfort and injury, and can also cause them to act atypically and misbehave. A horse’s mouth is a very delicate area and therefore needs to be treated with care. Therefore, it is important not only to use a correctly sized bit, but also to choose the right bit for your horse’s needs. There are so many options when it comes to bits that it leads to a lot of confusion. We’re here to try to simplify the bit world and hopefully help you solve the common dilemma of “which bit for my horse?”.

Many riders mistake a tom thumb bit for a mild snaffle bit. However, the articulated mouthpiece of the Tom Thumb bit doesn’t really make it a snaffle – it’s actually a lever bit. The tom thumb bit is a more severe and uncomfortable bit than many people realize.

In untrained hands, this particular tool can be quite a tough bit, which can lead to your horse objecting to the discomfort it causes. Because of this, it can happen that the horse misbehaves, which is dangerous for the rider and the animal.

The look of a tom thumb bit

Tom Thumb bits have an articulated mouthpiece and medium length shanks that are between five and seven inches long. The head piece of the bridle attaches to the rings at the top and a curb chain or strap attaches to the D-shaped slots.

There are different types of mouthpieces found on tom thumb bits, including different types of rubber and plastic, rollers, and copper or copper-inlaid strip. These bits have shanks, although shorter than many western bits, but are still a lever bit. Lever bits mean that for every pound of pressure the rider puts on the reins, the horse feels that triple pressure.

The curb chain is a very important part of this (and all) chin guards and should always be properly adjusted. A leather or plastic chin strap can be used instead of a chain to prevent the bit from rotating too far in the horse’s mouth.

Using a Tom Thumb Bit

Many horse lovers disagree about the severity of the Tom Thumb bit. Because it is articulated, it has a nutcracker effect in the mouth. In combination with the leverage of the thighs, the bit puts pressure on the horse’s head above the poll and under the chin when the curb chain or strap is pulled up. When the reins are pulled hard, the joint in the mouthpiece bends and can come into contact with the horse’s palate. This can cause the horse to toss its head, which is unsafe.

Proper use of a tom thumb bit

The tom thumb is considered a bad bit by some, but as with any bit, it depends on why it’s being used and the skill of the user. Tom Thumb Bits are most commonly used by young or small riders trying to lead a powerful, insensitive horse.

When experienced riders use the Tomb Thumb bit to make your horse stop faster, you should consider why your horse is not stopping at all. Although a bit will make your horse stop faster in the short term, a horse will learn to ignore the bit as it has the previous bit it wore and will need a stronger bit later. Rather than reinforcing the rein aids with a longer-shanked curb or other bit, it is often better to train both the horse and the rider.

A horse wearing an English bridle with a snaffle. Note that it is missing a shaft.

A classic Dee Ring snaffle bit with a single jointed mouthpiece

A snaffle bit is the most commonly used type of bit when riding. It consists of a bit with a ring on both sides and works with direct pressure. A bridle that uses only a snaffle bit is often referred to as a “snaffle bridle”, particularly in the English riding disciplines. A bridle that carries two bits, a double bit and a snaffle bit or “bradoon”, is called a double bridle.

A snaffle is not necessarily a bit with a jointed mouthpiece, as is often assumed. A bit is a snaffle bit because it applies direct pressure to the mouth without leverage. It’s a bit shaftless. Therefore, although the most common designs for snaffle bits are a one-piece or two-piece mouthpiece, they are not a bit. A mullen mouth (a massive, slightly curved bar) or a bar bit is also a snaffle.

action [edit]

The snaffle bit affects several parts of the horse’s mouth; The mouthpiece of the bit acts on the tongue and bars, the horse’s lips also feel the pressure of both the mouthpiece and the rings. The rings also serve to act on the corners of the mouth and, depending on the design, on the sides of the jawbone.[1]

A snaffle is sometimes mistaken for “a mild bit”. While direct pressure without leverage is milder than pressure with leverage, certain types of snaffle bits can still be extremely hard when made from wire, twisted metal, or other “sharp” elements. A thin bridle with a rough finish can damage a horse’s mouth if used roughly.[2]

Curb chains or straps will not affect a real bridle as there is no leverage to act on. English riders do not add any chin strap or curb chain to a snaffle bit. While some riders in the western disciplines add a chin strap to the rings, this is just a “hobble” for the rings, has no leverage and is only used as a safety feature to prevent the rings from being pulled through the opening of the horse should that animal opening its mouth to avoid the bit, an outcome which is prevented in an English bridle by the presence of a cavesson noseband.

Difference to a curb[edit]

no snaffles, because they have a double bridle. However, such bits are snaffle bits because they have a shank and use leverage

The snaffle bit differs from the Pelham bit, the double bridle bit and the kimbervetch in that it is a non-leverage bit and therefore does not amplify the pressure exerted by the reins. With a snaffle, an ounce of pressure applied by the reins to a snaffle bit puts an ounce of pressure on the muzzle. At a curb, an ounce of pressure on the reins puts more – sometimes far more – than an ounce of pressure on the horse’s mouth.[2]

There are many riders (and a notable number of tackle shops) who don’t know the true definition of a snaffle: a non-leverage bit. This often leads to a rider buying an articulated shank mouthpiece bit because it’s called a “snaffle” and believing that it’s soft and friendly because the snaffle’s name is mild. In truth, the rider actually bought a double bridle bit with an articulated mouthpiece, which is actually quite a heavy bit due to the combination of the nutcracker effect of the jaw and the leverage of the shanks.

A real snaffle doesn’t have a shaft like a pelham or double bridle bit. Although the Kimbervetch appears to have a D-shaped bit ring like a snaffle bit, the bit mouthpiece is not centered on the ring and thus applying the reins creates leverage; The Uxeter Kimberwicke has slots for the reins in the bit ring, giving the reins extra leverage. Both are used with a curb chain, so the ring acts like a bit shank and creates slight leverage, making it a type of curb bit.

A real snaffle will also not be able to slide up and down the rings of the bit or the cheekpieces of the bridle as this would place them in the toggle bit category.

The mouthpiece[edit]

Articulated mouthpiece on loose rings (both sides) and eggbutt (middle)

A French Link mouthpiece on Dee rings

A plastic mullen mouth

The mouthpiece is the more important part of a snaffle as it controls the strength of the bit. Thinner mouthpieces are tighter, as are rougher ones.

Articulated Mouthpiece: applies pressure to the tongue, lips and latch with a “nutcracker” action. This is the most common mouthpiece on a snaffle. [3]

: applies pressure to the tongue, lips and latch with a “nutcracker” action. This is the most common mouthpiece on a snaffle. Mullen Mouth: made of hard rubber or metal crescent, applies even pressure to the mouthpiece, lips and rods. It is a very mild mouthpiece. [3]

: made of hard rubber or metal crescent, applies even pressure to the mouthpiece, lips and bridges. It is a very mild mouthpiece. French mouth: a double-jointed mouthpiece with a bone-shaped limb in the middle. It reduces the nutcracker effect and promotes relaxation in the horse. Very mild.

: a double-jointed mouthpiece with a bone-shaped link in the middle. It reduces the nutcracker effect and promotes relaxation in the horse. Very mild. dr Bristol: a double-jointed mouthpiece with a thin rectangular limb in the center that is slanted, creating a pressure point. It’s a pretty heavy piece. The French limb is similar but much gentler as the limb lies flat against the tongue, lips and bar in the middle and has no pressure points. Neither the Dr. Bristol is still the French Link Nutcracker, but their rigor is absolutely the opposite.

: a double-jointed mouthpiece with a thin rectangular link in the center that is slanted and creates a pressure point. It’s a pretty heavy piece. The French limb is similar but much gentler as the limb lies flat against the tongue, lips and bar in the middle and has no pressure points. Neither the Dr. Bristol is still the French Link Nutcracker, but their rigor is absolutely the opposite. Slow Twist : a single broken mouthpiece with a slight twist in it. Stronger and stricter.

: a simply broken mouthpiece with a slight twist in it. Stronger and stricter. Corkscrew: Many small ridges increase the pressure on the mouth. Difficult.

: Many small edges increase the pressure on the mouth. Difficult. Single and double twisted wire: two of the heaviest mouthpieces as they are not only thin but also have a “nutcracker” action due to the single joint and the mouthpiece due to its strong twist concentrates the pressure. [4]

: two of the heaviest mouthpieces as they are not only thin but also have a “nutcracker” action due to the single joint and the mouthpiece concentrates the pressure due to its strong twist. Roller mouthpieces: tend to cause horses to relax their mouths and activate their tongues, which encourages salivation and acceptance of the bit. This can also focus tense or nervous horses on the bit. [4]

: tends to make horses relax their mouths and activate their tongues, which encourages salivation and acceptance of the bit. This can also focus tense or nervous horses on the bit. Hollow Mouth: Usually single-jointed with a thick, hollow mouthpiece that distributes pressure and makes the bit less severe. May not fit comfortably in some horses’ mouths if they are a bit small.

The snaffle rings[ edit ]

A western style snaffle bridle

There are different types of rings that influence the action of the bit.

Loose ring: slides through the mouthpiece. Tends to have the horse relax its jaw and chew the bit. Can pinch the corners of the horse’s mouth if the holes in the mouthpiece are large, in which case a bit guard should be used. [5]

: slides through the mouthpiece. Tends to have the horse relax its jaw and chew the bit. Can pinch the corners of the horse’s mouth if the holes in the mouthpiece are large, in which case a bit guard should be used. Butt/Lob Head: The mouthpiece does not rotate and thus sits more firmly in the horse’s mouth, which some horses prefer. Won’t pinch lips. [6] [7]

: The mouthpiece does not rotate and thus sits more firmly in the horse’s mouth, which some horses prefer. Won’t pinch lips. Dee-Ring: Ring in the shape of a “D” that does not allow the bit to rotate, thus holding the bit more firmly. The sides of the D provide lateral guidance. [6]

: Ring in the shape of a “D” that prevents the bit from turning, thereby holding the bit more firmly. The sides of the D provide lateral guidance. Full cheek: has long, outstretched arms above and below the mouthpiece on either side of the horse’s lips, with a ring attached. The jaws have a lateral guiding effect and also prevent the bit from slipping through the mouth. The full cheek is often used with bit holders to prevent the cheeks from catching on anything and to keep the bit in the correct position in the mouth. [5] [6]

: has long, outstretched arms above and below the mouthpiece on either side of the horse’s lips, to which a ring is attached. The jaws have a lateral guiding effect and also prevent the bit from slipping through the mouth. The full cheek is often used with bit holders to prevent the cheeks from catching on anything and to keep the bit in the correct position in the mouth. Half-cheek: has only one upper or, more commonly, a lower cheek, as opposed to both seen on a full-cheek snaffle. Commonly used in racing as there is less chance of cheek snagging on starting gate, or when driving as there is less chance of snagging on straps.

: has only an upper or more commonly a lower cheek, as opposed to both seen on a full cheek snaffle. Commonly used in racing as there is less chance of cheek snagging on starting gate, or when driving as there is less chance of snagging on straps. Belly: has a ring on the side of the mouthpiece, with a smaller ring above it to attach the cheekpiece of the bridle. Tends to concentrate pressure on the bars. It is very firm in the mouth.

: has a ring on the side of the mouthpiece, with a smaller ring above it to attach the cheek piece of the bridle. Tends to concentrate pressure on the bars. It is very firm in the mouth. Fulmer: a full cheek bit to which a loose ring is attached to allow it not only to have the lateral guidance effect but also to move freely as with a loose ring.[6]

Customize [ edit ]

The most important thing to remember when fitting a bit is that no two horses are the same. What one person prefers can cause serious problems for another. It is therefore the rider’s duty to find a bit that not only fits the horse (mouthpiece and ring) but also fits properly. The three main criteria when fitting the snaffle are the height at which the bit is raised in the mouth (set by the cheekpieces), the width of the bit (from where the mouthpiece meets one ring to where it meets the other) and the thickness of the mouthpiece.

Height [ edit ]

Theories for adjusting the bridle vary between horse owners, but the most common theory for adjusting the bridle is to adjust it so that it creates a crease or two in the lips at the corner of the horse’s mouth. The best way to determine how high a snaffle should be is to start with the bit just touching the corners of the horse’s mouth and forming a crease. When the rider holds the cheek pieces of the bridle and moves them up, the bridle should have enough slack to lift the bit in the horse’s mouth, but the cheek pieces should not be excessively loose.

Bridle with continuous cheek joint

The horse should keep its mouth closed over a properly fitting bit (light chewing is acceptable and a sign of relaxation) and its head steady. A bit may need to be adjusted either higher or lower until the horse shows no signs of discomfort. The height of the bit in the horse’s mouth has little significant effect on its heaviness. Some riders mistakenly believe that raising or lowering the bit increases its effectiveness, but this is incorrect. The bit is most effective when set correctly. Improper adjustment only leads to discomfort, not increased control.

Factors affecting bit fit include the overall length of the mouth, the length of the space between the incisors and molars where the bit rests on the gum ridges of the horse’s mouth, the thickness of the horse’s tongue, and the height of the mouth from the tongue to the palate. A horse that has a short muzzle, thick tongue and low palate has less room for error than a horse that has a longer muzzle, thin tongue and high palate.

One of the most important criteria when fitting the bridle is that it does not hit the horse’s teeth. The bigger concern is that the bit is not so high that it constantly rubs against the molars, which can cause significant discomfort to the horse. A bit set too low will not usually even get close to the front teeth, even on a short-mouthed horse, until there is a risk of the entire bridle falling off.

If the bit is set too low (not touching the corner of the mouth) this is primarily a safety issue, although the action of the bit can also be altered and cause discomfort. A horse can put its tongue over a bit that is too low and avoid its pressure, and the action of the bit will be altered and it will not engage the mouth as it was designed. Horses with feed that is slightly too low often open their mouths to avoid pressure and may chew excessively. In extreme cases, the snaffle can even fall off if the rider pulls hard on the reins, i.e. lifts the bit and loosens the cheek pieces while at the same time rubbing the horse vigorously, throwing its head or shaking it.

Many horses “wear” a bit that is too low themselves by holding it in the right place with their tongue. Some trainers, particularly in western riding disciplines, find this desirable and set a snaffle slightly low to encourage this behavior. Other trainers, particularly in English riding disciplines, prefer to hang the bit a little higher so that it is in the correct position without the horse having to move it there.

A bit that is too high (three or more lip folds depending on the horse) causes irritation of the lips, which over time leads to calluses and loss of sensitivity. However, the immediate consequence is that the horse feels constant bit pressure and cannot get any release even if the rider loosens the reins. This causes the horse to tense up in the jaw and resist the bit. Especially when a bit that is too high rubs against the molars, this discomfort causes the horse to toss its head and otherwise express displeasure with the situation, leading to poor performance.

If the horse tosses its head or tries to avoid contact with a bit, improper fit is usually the cause, but other factors should be considered. A rider must check with a veterinarian that the horse does not have a dental problem. Then the bit has to fit and the type of bit has to be taken into account. But finally, driver skill can be a factor. Even the softest bit, properly adjusted, can still make a horse uncomfortable in the hands of a poor rider.

Comparison of a standard eggbutt snaffle with a thin saddle seat style bradoon. Mouthpieces are the same width.

Width [edit]

The snaffle should generally be no more than 1⁄2 inch wider than the horse’s mouth. A horse’s mouth can be measured by inserting a wooden dowel or piece of string into the mouth where the bit goes and marking it on the edges of the horse’s lips. A bit that is too tight can cause pinching (which can be severe with a loose ring), and pinching can lead to behavioral problems if the horse is experiencing this discomfort. A clenched bite also causes calluses on the lips. The minor sin is a bit that is too wide and doesn’t press the lips but doesn’t allow for effective communication between horse and rider. The nutcracker effect of a jointed snaffle also represents a fit problem; The joint of a mouthpiece that is too wide hits the horse’s palate when the reins are tightened.

Mouthpiece diameter [ edit ]

Competition rules require bits to have a minimum diameter but no upper thickness limits. Many riders believe that a thicker mouthpiece is always a milder mouthpiece because thin mouthpieces localize pressure on the mouthpiece. However, the horse’s mouth is almost completely filled by its tongue. As a result, many horses (particularly those with large, fleshy tongues) prefer a medium-diameter mouthpiece that offers a little more room in an already narrow mouth. Also, thicker mouthpieces don’t provide much additional contact area and therefore generally don’t help as much as many riders think. To make it a little softer it can be rubber wrapped or made from a softer plastic material instead of metal.

However, extremely thin mouthpieces such as wire mouthpieces or those only 1⁄8-1⁄4 inch thick are never mild. These can damage a horse’s mouth.

See also[edit]

Quotations[edit]

^ Edwards Complete Book of Bits and Biting pp. 52–54 a b Kapitzke Bit and Reins p. 79 a b Edwards Complete Book of Bits and Biting p. 55 a b Edwards Complete Book of Bits and Biting p. 68 a b Edwards Complete Book of Bits and Biting p. 57 a b c d Edwards Complete Book of Bits and Biting p. 58 ^ Kapitzke bit and reins p. 95

Edwards Complete Book of Bits and Bitting pp. 52–54 Kapitzke Bit and Reins p. 79 Edward’s Complete Book of Bits and Bitting p. 55 Edward’s Complete Book of Bits and Bitting p. 68 Edward’s Complete Book of Bits and Bitting p. 57 Edward’s Complete Book of Bits and Bitting p. 58 Kapitzke bit and reins p. 95

References[edit]

Type of horse gear that fits in the horse’s mouth

Pelham bit with curb chain and articulated mouthpiece

A Pelham bit is a type of bit used in horseback riding. It has elements of both a curb bit and a snaffle bit. In this regard, a Pelham bit functions much like a double bridle, and like a double bridle, it usually has “double” reins: a set of curb reins and a set of snaffle reins.[1] Because it has a bit and can exert a ridge-like pressure on the horse, it is called a bit.[2] Like all double bridles, a Pelham bit has a mouthpiece, shanks with holding and lever arms, a rein attachment ring at the lower end of the shank and a curb chain. But like a snaffle bit, a Pelham bit has a bit ring on either side of the mouthpiece. Like some double bridles, a Pelham bit typically has “loose” shanks – which hinge at the mouthpiece in much the same way as the rings on a snaffle bit. When two sets of reins are used, the snaffle rein is generally wider to better distinguish it from the curb. A “cowboy pelham” is a western-style curb bit with loose jaws and additional rings on the mouthpiece that allow the addition of a second set of reins.

action [edit]

Pelham bit, articulated mouthpiece, used here with bit converter and single rein

A solid, medium ported mouthpiece with ring for a snaffle rein, allowing it to be used as a “cowboy pelham”, although only a single curb rein is shown here

A pelham works multiple parts of a horse’s head depending on which rein is being applied. The mouthpiece works when either the snaffle or the curb reins are put on and puts pressure on the bars, tongue and lip of the horse. The curb chain and the design of the mouthpiece can change the amount of pressure applied to the horse’s mouth. The roof of the mouth is affected when the mouthpiece of the pelham has a high port or is articulated. Pressure on the poll occurs when the curb rein is activated, and the pressure is directly related to the length of the upper leg (anchor arm) relative to the lower leg (lever arm). All Pelhams put some pressure on the poll. When using the chin strap, the curb chain exerts pressure on the chin groove. The direct rein pressure from the snaffle reins can put some pressure on the sides of the horse’s mouth depending on the bit design.

Shank [ edit ]

A pelham is a lever bit, meaning it increases power but decreases the amount of movement exerted by the rider. Unlike a snaffle bit, the curb rein can increase the rein pressure many times over, depending on the geometry and length of the leg. Shaft lengths are 5.1 cm (2 in) (“Tom Thumb”) and longer, although most are less than 10 cm (4 in).

The ratio of the holding arm – the length from the mouthpiece to the cheekpiece rings – and the “shank” or lever arm – the length from the mouthpiece to the bottom rein ring – is important to the weight of the bit. A long lower leg in relation to the thigh increases leverage and thus pressure on the goggles and jaw bridges. A long thigh in relation to the lower leg increases pressure on the poll but puts less pressure on the bit bars.

However, bits with longer shafts must back off further before they put pressure on the horse’s mouth than bits with shorter shafts. Therefore, a long-shank bit gives the horse more warning, allowing him to react before significant pressure is applied to his mouth than a shorter-shank bit. In this way, a longer lower leg can allow better communication between horse and rider without increasing harshness. This is also directly dependent on the tightness of the curb chain.

If the bit has a 1.5″ cheek and a 4.5″ drumstick, the cheek to drumstick ratio is 1:3, while the cheek to (upper + drumstick) ratio is 1 :4 and produces 4 pounds – compressive force on the horse’s mouth per 1 pound of force (4 Newtons per Newton) applied to the reins. If the bit has 2″ cheeks and 8″ shanks (1:4 ratio), the bit will generate 5 lbf (22 N) of tension for each tension (5 N/N) applied by the reins. Regardless of the ratio, the longer the shank, the less force is required on the reins to apply a given pressure on the muzzle. So if you were to put 1lbf (4.4N) of pressure on the horse’s mouth, a 2″ shaft would require much more rein pressure than an 8″ shaft to achieve the same effect.

This Pelham bit, used without a snaffle, is essentially a double bridle bit

Mouthpiece [ edit ]

As with many other bits, a pelham can have a solid or jointed mouthpiece. When solid, it can range from an almost straight “Mullen” mouthpiece to a medium port. The Pelham’s mouthpiece controls the pressure on the tongue, palate and bars. A grumpy mouth puts even pressure on the bars and tongue. A port puts more pressure on the bars and allows room for the tongue. A high port can act on the palate when it touches it and acts as a fulcrum, increasing pressure on the corners of the mouth.

Articulating mouthpieces increase the pressure on the bars as the mouthpiece wraps around in a “nutcracker” effect. Unlike an articulated mouthpiece on a snaffle bit, an articulated mouthpiece on a bit with thighs, such as the tip of the joint, fits into the tongue.

The mouthpiece is placed lower in a horse’s mouth than snaffle bits and typically just touches the corners of the mouth without creating a crease. The deeper the bit is placed, the heavier it is as the rails of the mouth become thinner and the pressure becomes more concentrated.

Curb chain[ edit ]

The curb chain puts pressure on the groove under a horse’s chin. It increases the pressure on the horse’s jawbars because when it’s tightened it acts as a fulcrum.

Correctly adjusted, the chain links lie flat and hang loosely below the chin groove and are only used on the jaw when the lower legs have rotated under the pressure of the reins. The point at which the curb chain engages will vary with the individual needs of the horse, but contact at 45 degrees of thigh rotation is a common default setting.

Used[ edit ]

Western style bit used as a “cowboy pelham” with double reins

The Pelham bit has multiple uses. In the English riding disciplines it is used in place of a double bridle when it is desirable to have double reins but not two bits. The Pelham bit is also used for polo when the action of a double snaffle is desired but the rider’s ability to make rein adjustments is limited. In training, a Pelham bit is sometimes used in both English and Western disciplines to transition a horse from a snaffle bit to a double bridle or double bridle.

A bit converter, also known as a pelham round, is sometimes used to allow a pelham to be used with a pair of reins. This is most commonly seen in beginners and riders in the cross-country phase of eventing. However, the use of a converter is illegal in most other horse show classes.

Horse shows[ edit ]

In horse shows, a Pelham bit may be used in some disciplines, but is prohibited in others. In the United States, the use of a Pelham bit in hunt seat riding and occasionally in show jumping and eventing is widespread. The use of this bit is legal but not common among show hunters and English pleasure. In the UK this bit is commonly used in place of a double bridle in show hunter, show hack, saddle horse, show cob and mountain and moorland classes, but is prohibited in riding and novice classes. The Pelham is not allowed in dressage at any level. The pelham must never be used in a Western riding discipline that uses either a snaffle bit or a curb bit.

driving [edit]

A pelham with a synthetic mouthpiece designed for riding

Variations on the Pelham bit are often seen when riding in situations where a little more control is required, which can be achieved with a snaffle alone or with a snaffle and overcheck combination. Stock design and size are governed by the rules for various forms of competition and very much across disciplines, from combined driving to draft horse show.

polo [edit]

Pelham bit a polo pony with double reins, pull reins on the snaffle rings, and a martingale

In polo, one of the two most commonly used bits is a Pelham bit (the other being a toggle bit). Double reins are held in one hand. Neck reining is used almost exclusively and riders have little or no need to adjust the reins while riding. Draw reins are often used on the snaffle ring. The rein lengths are adjusted so that the snaffle rein is normally used and the curb rein is only used when necessary. Such techniques are not legal in show disciplines and are exclusive to polo.

history [edit]

An antique curb bit with Pelham rein attachment points

The Winkelwangen Pelham was formerly used in the Australian Light Horse and other cavalry units as it was designed to fit as many horse mouths as possible. The Australian design had one side of the mouthpiece smooth and the other serrated. Different rein attachments were also possible with this bit.

One of the most common bits used in English riding is the egg snaffle. As there is no curb or leverage, it is a lightweight snaffle bit. The mouthpieces of these bits can vary in material and width. It’s also possible to see snaffles with eggnog, with keys dangling from the center joint. These are training bits and are not generally used for riding but to get a young horse used to the feel of holding a bit tight. The size of the rings to which the headstall and reins attach also varies.

Eggbutt Snaffle Appearance

Eggbutt snaffles can have a straight or a jointed mouthpiece. The rings are attached to the mouthpiece by wide cylindrical cheekpieces. The mouthpiece of the bit tapers inwards from the cheeks. Depending on the bite, these tapers can begin very broadly or rather narrowly. Wider tapers indicate a milder bit, but some horses with small mouths may have trouble holding a wide bit. The bit shown has a narrow taper to the articulated mouthpiece. The mouthpieces of this bit can be made of soft plastic, copper, nickel or stainless steel. The rings are made of nickel or stainless steel.

Used Eggbutt Snaffle

One of the most common English snaffle bits is the Eggbutt snaffle. It is useful in training a young horse, in general riding and in the initial stages of dressage. Some horses are ridden with this bit their entire lives. It is also acceptable to start a horse that will later learn to ride westerns in an eggbutt snaffle. These horses are eventually transitioned from this mild bit to a curb bit. In dressage, the loose ring snaffle gives the horse a clearer signal, so it’s not common to see this at just the simplest levels.

How it works

As with most English snaffle bits, the primary action is pulling on the jaw bars. The shape of the cheeks prevents the bit from pinching the horse’s lips and is one of the main appeals of this bit. The jointed mouthpiece exerts a nutcracker effect when the bit engages and presses on the tongue and palate. In contrast to a loose ring snaffle, the rings on this bit do not rotate freely, but are fixed. The bit also tends to sit a little more securely in the horse’s mouth, reducing the likelihood of the bit slipping sideways in the horse’s mouth. For this reason there is also some pressure on the cheek opposite the tightened rein when it is pulled with any force.

This is usually considered very mild. The wide mouth and gentle curves have no sharp edges to dig into the sensitive bars of the horse’s mouth, palate or tongue. However, it is possible that some horses will object to a very thick mouthpiece. Horses with a thick tongue or low palate may find this bit uncomfortable to hold.

Choosing a horse bit is a balance between the rider’s desired level of control, the horse’s comfort and the horse’s temperament. A Kimberwick bit is useful for a pony that is more difficult to control, but it must be used with care and skill as it is easy to accidentally harm the horse. Let’s take a closer look at Kimberwicks – and we’ll feature some great options to consider.

What is a Kimberwick bit?

A Kimberwick is a type of horse bit, sometimes called a Kimblewick, named after the English town where it was first made. Designed by a show jumper, Kimberwicks are commonly used in English riding. A Kimberwick is a type of double bridle with bit shafts, D-rings and a curb chain. Curb action in a Kimberwick bit is usually minimal to mild, although some offer more curb action. Kimberwicks were designed to give a rider extra control by encouraging the horse to lower its head.

Some consider Kimberwick bits to be a type of Pelham bit because the mouthpiece combines a snaffle bit and a double bridle bit in one device. However, a Kimberwick uses only one rein while a Pelham uses two. Also, the mouthpiece attaches to the top of a D-shaped cheek rather than the shaft, providing a slightly different mechanism of action than a pelham. The shank is also shorter, so Kimberwick bits are typically considered slightly milder than Pelham bits. As with any bit – especially a curb bit – it is important that the rider knows how to use a Kimberwick properly so that the rider can achieve the control desired without causing discomfort to the horse. Given the neck pressure it creates, any curb bit can be serious if not used properly.

When to Use a Kimberwick Bit

It would be great if every horse could be ridden with a snaffle bit. However, this is not always the case – it really depends on a rider’s ability, a horse’s behavior and training, and even personal preference. If you feel like you need something more than a snaffle bit, a Kimberwick bit might be a great bit to try before moving on to a Pelham bit or other curb bit with more poll pressure.

Kimberwick bits and Pelham bits are sometimes used by eventers, jumpers and hunters. They are not allowed in dressage and judges can penalize or even disqualify a rider for doing so. They are also not allowed in certain events, including in other English riding disciplines. If you’re considering using one for your horse, check the rule book for the events you plan to compete in to make sure it’s allowed.

Need more help? Check out our guide to choosing an English horse bit.

Types of Kimberwick bits

Kimberwicks, like other types of bits, can have a variety of mouthpieces. The original design had a ported mouthpiece that featured an inverted “U” in the center of the mouthpiece. Now you can find Kimberwicks with mullen mice, simply broken mouthpieces, and ported mouthpieces.

Mullen Mouth – Considered the softest mouthpiece as it does not pinch when a rider pulls on the reins. A Mullen Mouth is a simple mouthpiece with a slight curve over the tongue.

Single-Jointed Mouthpiece – Allows more pressure to be applied to one side of the mouth, controlling the horse’s lateral flexion.

Ported Mouthpiece – Offers a range of port heights, with a low rise being most comfortable for the horse and allowing more tongue room.

As well as these traditional versions, the Uxeter version of the Kimberwick has rein slots built into the shank of the mouthpiece, allowing the rider to vary the amount of poll pressure to suit the horse’s needs.

When placed in the top slots, there is very little or no poll pressure. On the bottom, the action is a bit stronger. The bit is milder than a pelham and sometimes milder than a snaffle as it has no nutcracker action as the classically styled Kimberwick has no joints.

Bits can be made of different metals, copper and plastics. Kimberwicks should always be used with a chin strap to ensure the bit does not rotate too far back in the horse’s mouth.

How to use a Kimberwick bit

A Kimberwick bit has a cheekpiece with a D-ring, a curb chain, a mouthpiece, and a single set of reins. The mouthpiece attaches to the top of the D-ring (unlike Pelham bits where it attaches to the top of the shaft). There are usually multiple rein slots, giving the rider flexibility in how much poll pressure can be applied. When the rider pulls on the reins, the bit puts pressure on the horse’s mouth, chin and poll. Bits with a port also put pressure on the palate. If a driver puts their hands up there is no poll pressure effect and vice versa.

5 of the best Kimberwick bits

There are lots of great Kimberwick pieces here at the Farm House! You will find several brands with different options to choose from. Here are some of our employee and customer favorites:

Is a Kimberwick bit a good option?

If you find that you need something stronger than a snaffle bit to communicate with your horse, a Kimberwick might be a good option to try. You can adjust the poll pressure depending on the type of bit you are using and the position you are holding the reins. Just make sure you learn how to use it properly to keep your horse safe and to ensure its effectiveness.

Browse our selection of bits and if you have questions about any of the horse bits we stock give us a call at 864-457-3557. We’re here to help!

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What is the best horse bit? Short answer: it depends.

Type the word “bits” into State Line Tack’s search bar and you’ll see over 1,000 results. With so many options, how do you choose the best one for you and your horse?

We’ll try to simplify things by reviewing how bits work and discussing the factors that should influence your choice. Then we will go through some common bits ordered by severity.

When you’re done reading, you should have a short list of things to try!

How do horse bits work?

Horse bits rest in the horse’s mouth between a natural gap in the horse’s teeth called the “bar”. A rider moves the bit by moving the reins. Depending on the bit design, the rein movement puts pressure on the horse’s lower jaw, sides of the mouth, tongue or palate. Some bits also pull on the bridle, putting pressure on the top of the head (called the poll). Others are paired with chin straps that tighten under the horse’s chin.

The purpose of a bit is not to cause pain or to “force” a horse to do what we want it to do.

Through a proper training program, horses can learn to respond to specific bit movements, and gentle-handed riders need do little more than curl their fingers around the reins to elicit the proper response from a horse.

Such a training program usually begins by teaching a horse to “yield to the pressure,” which is another way of saying “face the pressure in order to release it.” We don’t want horses to put themselves under pressure to resist; we are not strong enough to win such a tug of war.

That being said, some parts help horses behave a certain way, which can make it easier to teach them what we want them to do. For example, some bits encourage horses to lick and chew, which naturally softens their jaws and helps them relax. Others discourage horses from sticking their noses in the air like giraffes.

How do I choose the right bit for my horse?

There is no “right” bit for every horse in existence. Choosing the right bit for your horse can take some trial and error. Think about:

What Discipline You Ride: While there are certainly some all-purpose bits out there, what is appropriate for a Reiner probably won’t work for a Saddlebred as they have different movements (e.g. low and high head stance).

While there are certainly some general purpose bits out there, what is appropriate for a Reiner probably won’t work for a Saddlebred as they have different movements (e.g. low and high head stance). Whether you compete or not, you can ride your horse in any bit at home, but you may not be able to use it in competitions depending on federation guidelines.

You can ride your horse in any bit at home, but you may not be able to use it at a show depending on federation guidelines. What problems you have with your horse: Certain bits can help you tune your horse if he has a problem.

Certain bits can help you tune your horse if he has a problem. Whether you sometimes rely on the reins for balance, you should stick to mild bits for now so you don’t accidentally poke your horse in the mouth.

You should stick to mild bits for now so you don’t accidentally poke your horse in the mouth. What your horse is already used to: A horse that is expecting you to communicate by applying pressure to its tongue and jaw may become confused if pressure is suddenly applied to other parts of its mouth or head.

Horse bits in order of hardness

Gentle horse bits

Mullen Mouth with O-rings

A Mullen mouth bit has a smooth, flat mouthpiece with no joints, twists, or rolls. It may be slightly curved. It can be combined with any cheek piece, but O-rings offer the mildest effect.

What you should know:

Applies light, evenly distributed pressure to the jaw and tongue

Make sure the mouthpiece is not too thick for your horse’s mouth

Best suited for:

green horses

novice rider

rides

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colt bit

A Colt bit looks very similar to a Mullen mouth, but always has short shanks, giving it a mild curb effect. The mouthpiece of a willow bit often has a slight curve to take the pressure off the tongue at rest.

What you should know:

Applies a mild, evenly distributed pressure to the tongue and jaw

Also known as the Colt starting bit

The more the thighs are curved, the milder the bit

Can still be severe with rough use

Best suited for:

green horses

novice rider

western disciplines

rides

Try this bit on State Line Tack

Loose Ring French Link Snaffle

A French link snaffle has two joints connected by a “diamond” in the center of the mouthpiece. Considered one of the mildest snaffle bits. Pair with the most forgiving cheek piece (O-ring or loose ring) for the smoothest action.

What you should know:

Puts light pressure on the jaw, tongue and palate

There are slight deviations in terms of the width of the mouthpiece and the size of the diamond

Lozenges may be copper to promote salivation and a softer jaw

For a little clearer or quicker communication, pair with a D-ring or eggbutt cheekpiece instead

Best suited for:

horses of all levels

Drivers of all levels

Any discipline

Try this bit on State Line Tack

intermediate horse bits

Single Joint Bridles

A one-piece snaffle can put significant pressure on the jaw thanks to its nutcracker action. As such, it’s not ideal for heavy-handed riders or horses that don’t stop well.

What you should know:

Available in many different widths; thin is considered stricter

Can be combined with any type of cheek piece, including thighs

Puts pressure on the jaw and corners of the mouth, as well as on the tongue and palate

Best suited for:

Riders with light hands

Horses with some basic training

Any discipline

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Waterford Bridles

Waterford mouthpieces feature a multi-jointed “ball and chain” design. Pair them with loose rings for the mildest effect.

What you should know:

Distributes pressure evenly on tongue and jaw

Considered mild due to the lack of a nutcracker effect

Can be serious if the driver is “sawing” with their hands.

Best suited for:

Horses leaning on the bit

Horses crossing their jaws to grip the bit

Riders with soft, independent hands

Try this bit on Amazon

Kimberwick

A Kimberwick is a type of double bridle. They have two slots for reins and can have many different mouthpieces, but often have an unjointed stick with a hump (port) in the middle.

What you should know:

A low port is considered milder than a high port

Use the lower rein slot for more leverage

Use the top rein slot for a more direct action

Horses may actually find this a bit more comfortable as the port allows for more tongue room

Must be used with a curb chain

Puts pressure on the jaw, tongue, palate, poll and chin

Can result in a penalty at a hunter show

May not be allowed in western shows

Best suited for:

Horses that don’t stop well

Horses that like to raise their heads

Horses with some training

Drivers with independent hands

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Beaded curb

A ported curb bit looks just like a colt bit but has a port in the mouthpiece.

What you should know:

A low port is considered milder than a high port

Some may include rollers on the port to help the horse soften its jaw

Longer shanks make this bit heavier

The thighs should be curved

Best suited for:

western horses

Beginners who have learned not to hold on to the horse’s mouth

Green horses are already used to a foal bit

Try this bit on Amazon

Advanced horse bits

Twisted and double twisted wire snaffles

These thin, articulated mouthpieces work like a jointed or French snaffle but with a little added “kick”. Some trainers prefer to use them to prevent horses from becoming blunt in the mouth as it doesn’t take a lot of pressure to evoke a reaction.

What you should know:

Can be combined with any cheek piece

Snaffles made from double twisted wire are heavier than single twisted snaffles

Thinner mouthpieces are tighter

Best suited for:

Drivers with independent hands

Horses that need tuning to better respond to a bit

Young horses only in professional hands

Not allowed in dressage competitions

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Cathedral, spoon, spade and correction bits

These curb bits go by different names, but feature a mouthpiece with a large, narrow opening in the middle. The top of the port may flatten slightly or significantly.

What you should know:

Mouthpieces can be fixed or pivoting

Larger ports are considered stricter

Many feature a roller under the port to help the horse relax its jaw

The horse is expected to pick up this bit and hold it in its mouth

Best suited for:

Advanced Riders

Advanced Horses

western disciplines

Try this bit on State Line Tack

Elevator Bits and Gag Bits

These bits might look a little different, but they all rely on significant leverage. Some elevator bits have multiple rings that allow the rider to adapt them to different horses.

What you should know:

Reins attached to the largest ring of a lift bit allow it to function like a snaffle (no leverage)

Placing the reins farther from the mouthpiece will result in more leverage

Best suited for:

Advanced Riders

Advanced Horses

Horses that don’t stop well

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Pelhams or curbs

Some disciplines, such as dressage or saddle seat, prefer the use of double bridles. A bit of snaffle and bit sit in the horse’s mouth at the same time, and the rider holds two sets of reins to control each bit independently. A Pelham bit mimics the function of a double bridle but with only a mouthpiece.

What you should know:

Pelham can be used with two sets of reins, as a snaffle only, or as a double bridle only.

Requires a curb chain when used as a curb bit.

The longer the legs, the stronger the curb effect

Can be fitted with any type of snaffle mouthpiece

Pelhams are permitted in hunter competitions but may not be permitted in dressage

Best suited for:

Advanced Riders

Advanced Horses

Horses leaning on the forehand

Try this bit on Amazon

Tom Thumb

Tom thumbs are lever bits with a straight shaft. In other words, the thighs do not curve backwards. This design makes them very strict as every rein movement is immediately transmitted to the bit. (Curved lower legs provide some “early warning” and allow the horse to react quickly before further pressure is required.)

What you should know:

Can have any type of mouthpiece but is most commonly seen with a single joint

The longer the thighs, the heavier the bit

Best suited for:

Advanced riders who can communicate with their seat and voice before using the reins

strong horses

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Horse bite severity chart

While the perfect horse/bit match is unique to each couple, the following chart shows how common bits rank from milder to more controlled. Remember that all riders should learn to ride with steady, friendly hands. Bits with more control or leverage should only be used by experienced riders who can use them properly.

frequently asked Questions

What is the best bit for trail riding?

Usually you can use the same bit that a horse likes in the arena. Consider using a softer bit for a more relaxed ride, or a stronger bit if your horse needs a little reminder that you exist outdoors.

Read more about the best horse bits for trail riding.

What is the best horse bit for control?

The best horse bit for control depends on the problem. For example, a horse that doesn’t like standing still may benefit from switching to a snaffle (direct action) or curb (leverage). Sometimes it’s best to try a different training method rather than a different bit. For example, a horse that raises its head might do well with a light French snaffle and lots of circles to encourage bending and relaxing.

What is the best horse bit for beginners?

The best bit for a beginner rider is the gentlest bit that allows the rider to be taken seriously by the horse. For some, this may be a mullen mouth snaffle. For others, it might be a low port Kimberwick.

What is the best bit for a draft horse?

Try a Waterford paired with a loose ring. Also make sure that the bit is not too high or too low in the horse’s mouth.

What is the best bit for a green horse?

A green horse should wear a bit that doesn’t send too many complicated signals. For this reason, trainers often choose a mullen mouth snaffle. The horse can focus on learning what it means to feel pressure on the tongue and corners of the mouth. Later, other types of pressure can be introduced with slightly more complicated bits.

How are horse bits made?

Here is a great video showing how horse bits are made:

The brand name is stamped letter by letter on the rein rings. Then a steel rod is softened with a torch so that it can be bent. This process is done by hand, guided by solid pieces of metal to ensure the correct shape.

The bit is then polished, slightly shaped and contoured (if the bit is ported) to better rest on the horse’s tongue. The mouthpiece is then welded to the rein rings and a pulley is fitted (if the bit requires it).

What material are horse bits made of?

Horse bits are made from a variety of materials. Stainless steel is one of the most popular options as it doesn’t rust, is easy to clean and can be combined with other materials.

Rubber is another choice. It’s soft and flexible, but often thicker than metal bits. Many bits also have copper, which is great for increasing salivation.

Sweet Iron is another popular material thanks to its delicious taste. Some dentures are even made out of plastic, which can be scented to make the denture more appealing. A few other materials are aluminum, nylon and leather.

parting thoughts

At the end of the day you won’t know which bit will work best for you and your horse unless you try a few. If possible, ask your trainer for help – he or she likely has a collection of bits and will be happy to help you try a few and fit them properly. Much luck!

PS Do you like this article? Trot on to:

Sources/References:

https://www.extension.iastate.edu/equine/selecting-proper-bit

https://www.ridingwarehouse.com/lc/training/tack/show-legal-english-horse-bits.html

A straight snaffle is simply a straight mouthpiece attached to two large rings. The rings are loose or tight. These bits are often found old and rusty at flea markets and farm auctions. Some will look fairly primitive, probably being home made at a local blacksmith shop. Straight bar snaffles are still made and the one pictured has a rubber mouthpiece.

There are straight bar snaffles that have “happy mouths” or other modifications, but these are not quite the same as the old bits, which just have a very straight mouthpiece and are much more comfortable for a horse to wear.

Using the Straight Bar Snaffle Bit

The straight bar snaffle in the picture is called a Rubber Mouth Driving Training Snaffle and is intended for training a young horse. Solid metal straight bar snaffle bits were used fairly frequently on draft horses, and some straight bar snaffles on the horses used to pull tobacco boats from the fields. Perhaps one of the reasons there are so many in the dusty corners of barns and drive sheds is because they were cheap or easy to make back when horses were the engines of the family farm.

They are less used today because the straight bar that makes up the mouthpiece is quite uncomfortable for many horses to wear. This is because the bit sits over the gums and tongue with no curve to accommodate the curve over the tongue. Most horses will appreciate a mullen mouth or jointed bit to allow the bit to rest more comfortably in the horse’s mouth.

There are straight bar snaffles that have “happy mouths” or other modifications, but these are not quite the same as the old bits, which just have a very straight mouthpiece and are much more comfortable for a horse to wear.

These bits, if used at all, could be used for riding or driving. Again, they are most commonly seen old and rusted, a relic from a time when we were less aware of how to make our horses comfortable. Chances are the best use for such a piece is as wall decoration.

How the Straight Bar Snaffle Bit works

This bridle works on the tongue and latch. When the reins attached to the rings are pulled, the bit puts pressure on the bars of the mouth – the edentulous area on the gums between the front incisors and the rear grinding teeth. It will also put pressure on the tongue.

Many horses will be uncomfortable with a straight bar that always sits flat on the tongue and bars. In some horses, the mouthpiece meets the sides of their palate again. The mouthpieces of these bits tend to be quite thick and heavy, which many horses will also dislike, depending on the size of their tongue and the flatness of their palate. They are also made thinner, which can make a very simple piece heavier. If your horse tosses its head, chews, or misbehaves in any way while riding, it may be that the bit is uncomfortable for it and a change may be needed. Several bits often have to be tried before the right one is found.

The bit pictured has a rubber mouth which is more flexible, softer and less heavy than the old iron bits.

Firing is one of the most terrible habits a horse can develop, and one of the most dangerous. Anyone who has had the misfortune of riding a spinning horse knows that sick, impotent feeling of terror when the half-ton beast beneath you grabs the bit and rushes out of control with no steering and no brakes. If you’re lucky, he’ll do it in an arena where there’s at least a fence to keep him from going too far.

However, you should know that there is something you can do to prevent your horse from bolting. No, it doesn’t put a larger piece in his mouth. You must first learn the signs of bolting so that you can prevent your horse from bolting in the first place.

bolting basics

To understand how to prevent going out, you must first understand what happens when your horse decides to go out. When a horse breaks through, its body tenses up and becomes stiff. The part of his body where he’s stiffest is his neck. He locks his neck and takes away all lateral and vertical flexion. Then he grabs the bit to immobilize it.

There are several ways your horse can immobilize the bit. He can stick his tongue into the bit, grasp it with his teeth or – depending on the type of bit – stick his tongue to the palate. All of these methods take away the bit entirely. Once he locks his poll and grabs the bit, you’re toasted unless you find a way to unblock his poll. Unblocking his poll is easier said than done, however, as you typically have less than 30 seconds to unblock his poll before he runs away. At this point it’s game over and you have a choice of dismounting in an emergency, or holding on and praying he doesn’t wipe out or run under a low-hanging branch.

Related Content: The Panic Button: How to Avoid Making a Bad Situation Worse

Unlock the poll

When you feel your horse begin to grab the bit and lock his poll, the first thing to try is to pull his face away from him by bending to the side. However, if he doesn’t succeed, put your leg back and bring his hindquarters out from under him.

As with bucking and rearing, your horse can only kick effectively when all parts of his body are in a straight line. So if you take his head away or pull his hindquarters out from under him, he can’t get everything to swerve in a straight line. Even if you can’t take your head off him, his hindquarters are his engine. Turn off the engine and it’s going nowhere. Giving in the hindquarters will cause him to bend his body again and often gives you a chance to take his head away as well and prevent him from locking his poll again.

Know the warning signs

I hear many people who have seen a horse charge at them say; “He took off without warning.” I have never seen a horse buck, rear, or flash without warning. It just depends on how much warning they give. Some horses give a lot of warning, while others only give very subtle warnings. However, every horse gives some kind of warning, you just need to know what to look out for. Warning signs may include, but are not limited to:

rooting in the bite

toss head

hollow out the back

stick his tongue over the teeth

excessive startle/shyness

extreme elevation of the head

rearing

jerking

Causes of screwing

Many bolters do this out of fear. They have a strong fight or flight instinct with a pronounced preference for flight. Shooting is a natural response to a horse feeling trapped or scared. However, walking away can also become a habit used to get out of work. The first or second time the horse does it because it feels trapped and anxious, but quickly finds that once it starts to feel uncomfortable it puts it out of work. So running away becomes a habit when he’s asked to do something he doesn’t want to do.

It’s hard to say which type of bolter is more dangerous. On the one hand, a horse running away out of true fear does so in blind panic. He doesn’t think about his own safety or that of his rider. On the other hand, there is the habitual bollard man who will roll over any little thing that makes him the slightest bit uncomfortable. This comes with its own dangers as he will resort to rushing anything and everything. Such horses may even go so far as to intentionally attempt to trip their rider by bucking, tight turns, or even running under low branches.

No matter what type of bolter you’re unfortunate enough to be dealing with, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. The more you catch the horse before it breaks through, the closer you are to breaking the habit – or preventing the habit from forming in the first place.

Few horseback riding experiences are as frightening as having your horse take off with you. Losing control of a horse is scary at any time, but when he flees – maybe just a little startled, but possibly frightened – and doesn’t hear your signals, your fear may be just as good as his. In a situation like this, someone has to keep their cool and it has to be you.

Of course, that’s easier said than done when you’re on top of a thousand-pound rocket flying at top speed and heading for God knows what: a road, a crowded parking lot, a precipitous cliff, a field full of holes. Even when you’re cantering down a slippery track leading home, it’s hard to stay calm when you can feel your horse’s panic with every step. Or maybe he’s not afraid, just looking for relief from stress, frustration, or confusion.

In any case, you have no control. And when you’re not in control, things can quickly go wrong. It’s a terrifying feeling, and some drivers remain anxious long after they’ve been through it.

The good news is, if you know how to get through—or better yet, how to prevent—a situation that gets out of control, you can regain your confidence. This will also boost your horse’s confidence.

What should you do to get a runaway horse under control and get you both through the experience with the least amount of damage? Once you are safely home, what can you work on to prevent this from happening again? Here are some pointers to achieve both goals.

regaining control

Sit deep and breathe.

Keep your eyes open and your brain engaged.

Use a rein for control.

Resist the impulse to pull back both reins.

Try to place your horse in a large circle.

horseback riding

First, let’s talk about what you should and shouldn’t do when your horse takes off with you. In general, the most important thing is to keep going. Remind yourself, “I can ride as fast as he can run.”

The key word here is “driving”. Don’t switch off and let fear overwhelm you. Take a little stock of how you drive and focus on these basics:

Sit low in the saddle, lean back slightly, and remember to keep breathing. You don’t want to arch forward or grab tight with your calves as those are acceleration cues. If you hold your breath, you’ll tense up and it will startle your horse even more.

If you wear spurs, make sure you keep them away from your horse.

keep your eyes open You’ll be amazed how many of us close our eyes when things get scary. It’s almost like we’re avoiding a scary movie scene. With your eyes open, you can ride consciously and try to steer your horse away from danger. They also process visual information, which keeps your brain busy. Thinking is a good way to keep panic at bay.

Check your breathing again. Talk or sing to avoid holding your breath. (But don’t yell or scream.)

Follow the horse’s rhythm. As well as being organized – and if you’re lucky, a little calmer – you can also use different strategies to get your horse under control. Much of your success depends on how well the horse understands certain cues. (More on that in a moment.)

But let’s say this horse has little training. Maybe it belongs to a friend and you’re wearing it for the first time. You haven’t had a chance to find out what he knows, other than that he’s pretty good at speeding down the trail in a jiffy without even asking you first.

In this situation, you want to make a simple request that he probably understands. It’s not a perfect solution, but it’s better than hunting in a straight line.

Ask him to make a small bend and get him to move in a big circle. Trying to make a big circle at first will still make him feel like he’s getting away from what scares him. You don’t want to twirl him around and make him think you’re trying to make him go back. In fact, it’s unlikely he would let you. Not only that, but if you try to pull him into a tight corner at high speed, you could throw him off balance and actually trip him.

To cue the horse to start the circle, use a leading or open rein to lead his nose in the direction you want to travel. Concentrate on getting a little turn and look where you want to go. Don’t forget to breathe. Use a little pulsating give and take on the reins to keep him from bucking against it, and release the pressure as soon as he starts to twist.

If you can only keep a small bend and a big circle, just stick with it. He probably won’t slow down for a while, but he will eventually relax or get tired. The fact that you gave him a job – circling – will also help him focus on something other than his panic.

If you can, try twisting it into a spiral and making the circle a bit smaller, as that way it’s likely to slow down sooner. Just remember to do it gradually.

Do you know the bolt signs

A horse that is a habitual “bolter” may not give you much warning, although you may feel it grab the bit just before it lifts off. But a horse that is fearful or frightened may take a minute to prepare to flee. When you see (or feel) these signs, you know what to expect—and you have a chance to avert a full-blown escape situation.

Your horse’s body will tighten as he contracts his muscles for wind.

He may start jipping or side dancing.

A sudden push will come off the bit onto the reins if he grabs it just before he starts walking.

Slow down the engine

When you ride a horse with more training, you have more options. Instead of trying to control his nose (which really doesn’t slow down his engine), you can move his hips or shoulder. In both cases, he drives at an angle, causing him to slow down.

To move his hips, take a rein and pull him firmly back towards your own hips. Be calm and deliberate (no flinching) and hold the pressure until you feel him step out of the way with his hindquarters. For example, if you pull the left rein, you want him to kick to the right with his hindquarters. This was supposed to be a radical move – a really big step sideways.

We sometimes refer to this movement as “release the hips” or “connect the reins to the hips.” When its hips move to the side, a horse can’t push as much momentum forward – so it slows down. As soon as you feel this movement, release the pressure on the reins. This is his reward for doing what you wanted, even though it’s almost certainly not what he wanted to do.

He should fall back to at least a trot but is allowed to accelerate again. If this happens, give him a few steps and then repeat the process with the other rein. When you feel his hips move forward, release the pressure on the reins.

When he picks up speed again, let him take a few steps, take the first rein and move your hips over from that side. You can switch this alternating series of hip-over requests from side to side for as long as needed until it finally slows down for good. Then, once he’s under control and walking calmly, move on and let him loose.

When using this technique, remember that it’s important to move your hips. Just pulling his nose around might not slow him down. It’s hard to believe (until it happens to you), but your horse may still be able to keep running forward even with his nose wound up on your stirrup. The success of the maneuver depends on the connection of the nose with the hips.

Moving his shoulder forward can be just as effective, but your horse needs to be well-trained at responding to your cue. Controlling its front end by moving a shoulder requires a bit release, a change in head pose, a relaxed neck, and a front leg step to the side. While this is not difficult to teach in relaxed circumstances, he may not respond in an emotionally charged situation unless he is very comfortable with your request.

One rein, not two

Beginners – and even some experienced riders who know better – are likely to respond to a fast or stalling horse by pulling back on both reins. This is ineffective and can actually make things worse.

For starters, just give your horse something to resist. His motor (hindquarters) still propels him forward. He will stiffen and you will lose the opportunity to communicate with him. (If your horse accidentally strays off the track, you’ll encounter a different response: acceleration. Racehorses are taught to go faster when they sense their rider pulling back on the reins.)

Another undesirable result of pulling both reins back is that it is likely to increase the horse’s anxiety. Your deadly grip on the reins conveys your fear, which amplifies his. Holding his head can also make him feel trapped and restricted, leading to even more panic.

To get a feel for what that’s like for him, imagine you’re swimming underwater and you’re running out of air. You swim as hard as you can to get to the surface, with growing fear. Then someone grabs your legs and tries to hold you back. You were worried before, but chances are you’re going to get ballistic now and try to make a life-or-death escape from this situation.

Instead, use only one rein. This will help guide your horse’s nose, rotate his front paws, and move his hindquarters. If he moves his hindquarters, the change of direction will slow him down. He’s even more likely to respond to a rein if you’ve already worked on Lyons cues like head down and hips forward.

stay in control

So you got it back from the run in one piece, still a little wobbly as you watch your horse settle down to graze in your pasture. Now it’s time to assess what went wrong and what you can do to prevent things from going so bad in the future.

Your basic plan should include at least lots of practice with these exercises in a safe environment:

spook on the spot

shoulder over

hips over

Note for reassurance

hip, shoulder, shoulder

< We've covered these moves extensively in previous issues of Perfect Horse (see list below left), but here's a quick look at what each move entails and where it can be useful in averting or stopping a run-off situation check. spook on the spot What the point is: You can't desensitize your horse to every scary thing he's going to encounter. But you can teach him to control himself when something scares him. By gently startling him (but not enough to make him move his feet) you can teach him to stay in place instead of tearing away in a blind panic when startled or frightened. Besides the haunting, you should work on kicking him out so he gets used to certain common "threats" like having papers and objects flapping around his feet. How it can help: By teaching your horse to stand still for even a moment before taking off, you can better position yourself to stay on the horse and then after certain movements (e.g. hips forward). questions that distract his impulse to flee. shoulder over What it's about: You can control the front end of your horse by teaching him to move his shoulder and pass his front leg. He must learn this exercise gradually: first yielding, then lowering his head, and then relaxing the long muscle in his neck—followed by stepping sideways. How It Can Help: Asking your horse to perform this maneuver when you feel like he's about to take off with you is a good way to keep him engaged in a specific task. When a runaway horse moves its shoulder, it changes direction and moves at an angle - slowing it down. hips over What It's About: The hips-over exercise is a great way to gain control of your horse's hindquarters. To teach him, pull back on a rein and hold the pressure until he releases his hips by kicking his hind feet sideways. As with all your requests, you should release the rein pressure immediately so that he understands that he did the right thing. This clearance is a powerful reward. How it can help: Like the shoulder-over maneuver, the hip-over technique allows you to give your horse a task when he's upset about something. It can also allow you to position him to face what has scared him. If you find yourself on a runaway horse, if you make it move its hips it will take some of the forward propulsion out of its engine and it will slow down. Make sure you've taught him to move his hips with both reins, as getting him under control may require a series of hip releases using one rein and then the other. reassurance signal What it is about: The calming cue (head down) is useful in many situations. It's just a request for your horse to lower his head, making him calmer (as opposed to keeping his head high, ready to flee). To teach this sign, you must maintain pressure on a rein and focus on the tip of your horse's ear. The moment you see it ease—even by a fraction of an inch—release the rein pressure. After repeating the process for a while, the drop will be larger and the reaction will be faster. How it can help: You can use the calm down sign to prevent an agitated horse from getting out of control - or in some cases, to prevent it from getting agitated in the first place. Head down is not conducive to an escape response, so it's a great technique for anticipating a runaway situation. It kind of makes him think, "Well, my head's nice and low, so I can't plan on leaving anytime soon." Should you bail? When a horse runs away, some riders decide it's best to get out. Maybe they're making a conscious decision, or maybe they're acting out of sheer panic. But in most cases, jumping off a runaway horse is a bad idea. Landing without the horse with minimal impact is difficult. You'll guarantee yourself a few ugly bruises at best - and you could get kicked, kicked or ricocheted off a wall at worst. On the other hand, if you stay on horseback, even if you never get him under control, you'll likely be intact when he finally runs out of gas, reaches the barn or trailhead, or decides he's got enough distance between took himself and what triggered him. Of course, jumping off is smart in some situations, but these are extreme cases. For example, if you really can't turn or slow the horse and it's approaching a busy freeway or a dangerous slope, dismounting is probably your best option. If your tack has failed — for example, if your harness has come undone and the saddle is going south — it may be best to jump off. hip, shoulder, shoulder What it's about: The hip-shoulder-shoulder exercise is an effective combination where you move your horse's hips to the side and then take a step backwards. It's one of your best tools for gaining control of your horse, even when things get pretty dicey. The basic process involves a hip release, followed by stepping back with the right foot and then the left. How It Can Help: Hip, Shoulder, Shoulder is a great way to get your horse's attention when he's showing signs of restlessness or just wants to go faster than you want. You can stop after the hip part if that seems to do the trick. But if you do the whole exercise (especially if you've practiced it enough so that he's reassured by understanding the routine), you can keep his focus and remind him to downshift if he's speeding on the way back to the stall becomes. Your horse is programmed to run first and ask questions later. But there are steps you can take to ensure you have a safe and enjoyable ride despite that escape instinct. The process is really twofold: learn what techniques to use to get things under control when he takes off with you, and practice the maneuvers that will help you maintain or regain control so he can even have one has a better chance of responding to your cues when the pressure is high.

Getting out of control is a serious problem in a horse. Here I will highlight three key concepts. 1.) How to prevent a horse from learning to screw on. 2.) How to stop a horse from running away. 3.) How to stop a runaway horse in an emergency… in case 1 and 2 didn’t make it.

With this information, you can vaccinate against one of horseback riding’s scariest occurrences: the runaway.

Prevention is by far the best solution to a runaway horse. Learn how to prevent runaways and what to do in an emergency. Photo courtesy of John Lyons

1.) Prevention. This topic is covered in detail in a feature by John Lyons and his daughter, Brandi Lyons. John explains how letting your horse get away with small disobediences – such as letting your horse get away with it – can create a mindset.

Then Brandi describes a step-by-step method to “bake in” the solid stopping response you want in your horse. This training begins in a calm environment conducive to learning, then adds distractions and challenges to help your horse learn that your stop sign must be heeded no matter what.

Followed religiously, this approach makes your horse a willing partner who is always under your control, regardless of what is going on around him.

2.) deterrence. When unexpected influences overwhelm your horse’s training and you’re concerned he’ll take off with you (or with his butt or buck), a one-rein stop is your best friend. Pulling back both reins will only make an agitated horse hotter. The solution is to wiggle his head around while you turn off his “motor” (that is, you “deactivate” his hind legs by setting them aside).

The one rein stop should be part of your regular training so that your horse learns it well enough to react automatically in tight situations.

Please note that the pull-in stop is not the correct maneuver when your horse is already in full canter as it can throw him off balance. In a true runaway situation (which 1 and 2 should help you avoid!) you need instead…

3.) Emergency Measures. If your galloping horse ignores your cues, the emergency brake cable can stop it safely. To perform it, shorten both reins, then place one hand on your horse’s neck, holding the rein and grasping the mane. Then, lift the other rein up and back and pull it towards your shoulder (not your hip). The tight rein keeps your horse from flexing his neck, while the leveraged rein applies pressure guaranteed to get his attention.

Watch the rein in action to understand how it works. Then only use it in an emergency as it puts a lot of pressure on sensitive areas in your horse’s mouth. Ideally, if you’ve followed concepts 1 and 2, you’ll never need it.

One final caveat: If your horse already has a confirmed escape habit, seek professional help. An expert can diagnose what is causing your horse’s behavior, find a way to stop it, and teach you how to keep it from relapsing.

It’s about finding the right solution to the problem at hand.

YOUR PROBLEM HORSE TOOLKIT:

One rein hold.

Emergency rein stop.

Rearing.

jerking.

Bullying.

Creepy.