Best Brush For Brickwork? Quick Answer

Synthetic or acrylic brushes – perfect for all water-based interior paints. The smooth texture and resilience of the bristles make it easy to achieve an even finish and make “cutting” (creating the straight lines between different surfaces) really easy. They are particularly good for finishing woodwork and furniture with waterborne satin, eggshell and gloss finishes.

Tip: Take care of these and they will last for years. Make sure you get all the paint out of the bristles before storing them and if you get bent bristles, dip them in hot water and they should regain their shape.

What am I painting?

Starting at the top, paint in right-to-left or left-to-right sections. Work your way across the house, first the top, then the middle, and finally the bottom of your exterior. If possible, make sure to keep a wet edge so that no streaks or blocks appear on the wall where the paint has dried unevenly.

Follow the sun, this ensures that the surfaces are dew-free and warm. Do not paint in direct sunlight as this may cause blistering when drying.

The best method for painting behind pipes without getting paint on your exterior walls is to use a piece of cardboard as a mask.

When painting the outside, the temperature must be at least 8 °C so that the paint dries well. Note that when painting late in the day, the temperature does not get too cold or damp, as this can affect the end result and cause problems.

Top Tip: When trying tester pots, paint a panel on a map, don’t use the wall.

Painting brickwork is one of the first jobs on many homeowners’ summer DIY lists, as the warmer weather offers the perfect time to get outside and freshen up your home. Both painted exterior brickwork and exposed brickwork are perfect opportunities to add a fresh coat of paint and completely transform the look of your exterior walls. As with all decorating projects, the best way to get the best results is by making sure the right preparation is done and the best tools are used. That’s why our experts have put together this guide to make the whole process as easy as possible.

wall color

When painting brickwork, start first with the paint you are going to use. Not all colors are suitable for outdoor use due to weather conditions, which is why many paint manufacturers develop special outdoor paints for outdoor use. The paints developed for exterior walls are referred to as masonry paints and offer the adhesion and weather resistance that helps them stay intact in the wind and rain to which exterior walls are exposed. Wall colors are often:

Thicker than interior paints to allow better coverage of the larger masonry areas they are used on

Designed to be more flexible to allow for the contraction that occurs in certain weather conditions

Provide extra durability to ensure they stay stuck to the wall in harsh conditions

Offer different levels of water resistance

Provides UV protection to prevent fading and discoloration

Brickwork colors, like all colours, vary in many ways which means choosing the right one for you is the very first step in the decorating process. The four main factors to consider when deciding which brick color to use are:

colour

water resistance

durability

texture

First, the color you choose has an impact on what color you should use. Most masonry paint manufacturers offer a range of popular masonry colors as standard, such as: E.g. white, cream and grey. Some manufacturers have a wider range of colours, whilst many can color match certain lighter shades upon request including us here at Emperor Paint.

When it comes to waterproofing and durability, these two crucial factors go hand in hand. The reality is that masonry paints are designed to suit different needs. Some wall paints are rated to last 1-3 years and are available at great prices from major DIY stores across the UK. On the other hand, there are special wall paints that can last over 20 years due to their advanced technology.

You may be wondering how do these colors last so much longer than cheap masonry paint? Well, this is where water resistance comes into play. The single largest cause of exterior paint failure is moisture. It’s a relatively unknown fact among homeowners, but bricks actually absorb moisture because they’re porous. If rain moisture accumulates in the wall and moisture from the interior walls under the paint film, it detaches completely from the wall. For this reason, some wall paints offer waterproof properties, such as B. Emperor Masonry Paint. Thanks to a water-repellent coating on the outer wall, the water simply rolls off the painted masonry without penetrating the wall and getting behind the paint film. By keeping the wall paint fully breathable, moisture damage to the paint is completely prevented. This super hydrophobic nanotechnology has been scientifically proven to withstand harsh weather conditions for at least 25 years without peeling, peeling or changing in any way. It’s important to note that while almost all masonry paints claim to be weatherproof, that doesn’t mean they’re waterproof. In order to be fully waterproof and prevent water from damaging the paintwork, it needs to be water repellent and breathable.

The final way masonry paint differs is in texture, with smooth and textured masonry paints available. While a smooth mural paint is by far the most popular option as it creates a silky smooth finish that is easy to clean, a textured mural paint is lightly textured so it can cover up small wall imperfections and offers more weather resistance compared to a standard paint. non-waterproof wall paint.

How much paint do I need?

Once you’ve decided what wall color you’re going to use, the next step is to estimate how much paint you’ll need to complete your project. This is not an easy task, especially if you are new to painting exterior masonry. It’s important that you make sure you have enough paint to complete the project, as re-ordering paint mid-project not only wastes time but can also result in you getting an uneven finish due to differing drying times of the Colour.

There are three things to consider when estimating the amount of paint you will need when painting brickwork:

The size of the area to paint

The opacity of the color you are using

The number of layers needed

By considering these three factors, you can accurately estimate how much paint you need.

First, let’s cover how to estimate the size of the area you’re going to paint. This is done in square meters by measuring the length of the area and the height of the area. Once you have these two measurements, simply multiply them to get the total square footage. For example, if you only paint part of the house or a garden wall, this is easy. If you’re painting the whole house, you’ll need to multiply that number by the number of walls to be painted. You can get a more accurate grand total by determining what parts of the property you don’t want painted, such as: B. Windows and doors, and deduct them from your total.

The opacity of wall paint varies from color to color. Emperor Wall Paint for example has a coverage of 5-6m² per litre. On a rough exterior wall such as pebbles the paint coverage can be half that of a smooth masonry surface giving you 3m2 per liter with Emperor Wall Paint.

The final part of the equation is the number of coats required for a brick color, which can vary. The vast majority of masonry paints are two-coat systems, meaning it is important to double the opacity required to account for the masonry being painted twice

If you need help estimating the amount of paint you need, please feel free to contact one of our experts by emailing [email protected].

How to paint masonry

Now that you have your color sorted, it’s time to start the decorating process. Here’s our expert step-by-step guide to painting brickwork from start to finish.

To paint masonry you will need:

Masonry roller (long pile roller)

Paint Tub or Scuttle

Paint brush

dust brush

120 grit sandpaper

stamens

window film

masking tape

wall color

Exterior putty & spatula (may be required)

scraper (may be required)

1. Preparation

Preparation is one of the most important parts of the decorating process, as any professional decorator will tell you. If you do not ensure that the surface is ready for painting you will either have paint adhesion problems during painting or after a few weeks the paint will begin to fail. Very rarely are exterior walls immediately ready for painting due to dirt, cracks or peeling paint.

The very first part of the process of preparing the masonry to be painted is to fill any cracks or holes in the masonry. Begin by removing loose mortar and debris from the hole or crack before filling. Fill the masonry with a good quality exterior filler such as Toupret Masonry Repair Filler by working the filler back and forth into the hole or crack. It’s a good idea to trap the hole to make sure you compensate for the shrinkage. If you’ve overfilled, sand that backing down with 120 grit sandpaper for a perfectly smooth surface for painting. Wherever paint is peeling off, use a scraper to remove it. If the scraper doesn’t work, use a stiff-bristled brush.

Once the surface is properly filled and intact, it must be cleaned before masonry painting. This is a crucial step as any fungus left on the wall will sprout and cause the paint to fail. Use a brush to apply a fungicidal masonry cleaner such as Emperor Masonry Cleaner to any areas showing mold or green growth. Allow to dry for at least 2 hours and allow to soak into the surface of the masonry. There is no need to wash this off as you are painting over it and therefore will not see the residue of the cleaner. Also, use a stiff brush to remove dirt and debris from the wall as this can also prevent the paint from adhering properly to the brickwork.

The final part of the prep process is to mask off any surfaces that you do not plan to paint, for the cleanest possible finish. Apply masking tape to all edges of the brickwork and to your exterior trim such as doors and windows. It is also recommended to apply anti-dust sheets to reduce the risk of paint splashing onto other surfaces.

2. Prime

If you are painting a bare wall that has never been painted before, like most other bare surfaces, you will need to prime it before painting. If you are merely touching up previously painted brickwork, this step is not necessary.

If you are using Emperor Paint you will need to use Emperor Paint Primer as this is also water repellent ensuring full waterproof protection. Masonry primer is a thin, milky substance that is easily applied with a masonry roller or brush. It requires only one application and must be applied in completely dry conditions. If conditions are not dry do not attempt to continue painting as the primer or masonry paint will not adhere. Apply a thin, even coat of primer to the brickwork, making sure to cover the entire surface. After fully priming the area, allow 3-5 hours to fully dry before painting.

3. Paint

Now the important part, painting the masonry! Make sure you do not paint at temperatures below 5°C as this will affect the performance of the wall paint. Starting from the top of the masonry, first cut the edges with a brush, as these can then be evenly rolled over with a roller. Then apply a thin but even first coat of paint with your long-pile wall roller. The goal of this first coat is not to create a solid color finish, but to build up an undercoat that will help the thicker topcoat adhere. When you’re done with your first coat, let it dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. With Emperor Masonry Paint this is around 8 hours in warm temperatures. Apply the second coat a little thicker but again as evenly as possible over the brickwork, making sure you get the best possible result.

The final coat of paint is then allowed to dry completely before you remove your masking tape and admire your handy work!

frequently asked Questions

Q. What is special about wall paint?

Masonry paint requires more durability and water resistance to meet the higher demands of exterior masonry. That’s why you can’t use emulsion paint on exterior walls, as it simply flakes off when it rains.

Q. Can panels be painted with masonry paint?

Some masonry paints adhere to concrete slabs because they are made of the same material as some masonry surfaces. Just because the interface is the same doesn’t mean it performs the same. A paving slab is a horizontal surface, which means that water collects on it and does not wash off like an exterior wall. This means that the wall paint will not last as long as it would on a wall. In addition, a water-repellent wall paint is not suitable for paving slabs, as these are intended for external walls.

Q. Can you paint wet masonry?

Surfaces must be completely dry before painting, especially with a water based paint as most wall paints are. You shouldn’t paint a damp exterior wall until you fix the problem causing the dampness. The reason for this is usually penetrating moisture caused by water ingress on an outer wall. This moisture is prevented by impregnating masonry with a waterproof masonry paint. Wait for the temperatures to rise and the wall to dry out, and then paint the masonry while it is dry. Alternative causes of dampness can be a water leak or a crack in the exterior wall.

Q. What is the best wall paint roller?

Paint rollers come in a variety of sizes and sleeve thicknesses called pile or pile. When painting a rough exterior like brickwork, it is important that you use a long-nap roller, which often has a 3/4″ or 1″ nap. This thicker roller shell allows more paint to be picked up, which can then be deposited onto the brickwork for good coverage over larger areas. These rollers also vary in roller size, ranging from 4 inch mini rollers to 15 inch large rollers. We recommend using a 9″ or larger roll to provide good coverage of an exterior wall. Using an extension pole also allows you to apply masonry paint as easily as possible without straining your body.

Q. Does masonry paint stop moisture?

There are two main types of moisture; penetrating dampness & rising dampness. Rising damp is caused by moisture seeping out of the ground and rising up the outside wall. With moisture ingress, water is absorbed through the masonry, which is then transferred to the property. By preventing this moisture from being absorbed into the exterior wall, moisture problems can be significantly reduced. Not all wall paints are water-repellent, which is essential to protect against moisture penetration.

Q. Which self-cleaning masonry paint?

Self-cleaning masonry paint is a masonry paint that does not require regular cleaning because dirt cannot settle or be washed off with rainwater. This happens when using a water repellent masonry paint such as Emperor Masonry Paint which treats dirt the same as water. As a result, the masonry does not have to be cleaned for decades and remains as new.

Q. What is breathability and how does it work?

A term that many people get confused with is “breathability” when it comes to brickwork paint. Raw, untreated masonry is both porous (meaning it absorbs moisture) and breathable (meaning it allows water vapor to flow freely). This breathability is critical to allowing the interior of the property to shed moisture that naturally builds up from condensation. This means that while it is crucial to prevent moisture from entering the building, it is even more important to release moisture from the building as blockage would severely damage the building materials and lead to major moisture problems. For this reason, every wall paint must be breathable so that this moisture can escape. Breathability is measured using an SD value, with anything below 1 being considered breathable. In independent tests, an untreated wall was measured at 0.57, while the same wall painted with Emperor Masonry Paint was measured at 0.56. This showed that Emperor Masonry Paint remained fully breathable while showing a 93.4% reduction in water absorption. This combination of waterproofing and breathability keeps homes from moisture penetration, heat loss and paintwork damage.

Q. Can masonry be spray painted with masonry paint?

Yes, you can use a spray machine to apply masonry paint. This leaves a smoother finish and allows you to cover large areas quickly and effectively. It is recommended that you only go this route if you are experienced with spray painting, especially as spray machines are quite expensive. There are a number of spray training courses you can take if you want to gain more experience at it.

Would you like more information about masonry painting? Our in-house experts are available to answer all your questions about the entire painting process. Contact one of our experts or buy our waterproof wall paint.

Painting a house can feel like a gargantuan feat, especially if you’re new to painting. If you are painting a facade for the first time, you will surely have some questions.

A frequently asked question is: “Can you dilute wall paint?”. Knowing where you stand with masonry paint and water can mean the difference between a good finish and a bad one, and how often you need to paint your home.

Before you start your exterior painting project, here’s everything you need to know about water and brick paint…

Wall paint and water: is that a good combination?

Running out of paint can be an absolute nightmare, especially when you’re fighting the clock trying to get that perfect finish. It can be tempting to add a little water to your wall paint to keep it expanding, but is it the right thing to do?

Adding water to masonry paint is something you should definitely avoid if you’re just trying to stretch the paint, as it doesn’t deliver the same type of finish as undiluted paint. This is especially the case if you have already started painting the current layer.

However, that’s not to say there’s an occasion when it’s okay to add water to your brickwork paint…

Adding too much water to your paint, or buying paint with a high water content, can mean applying many coats to your wall to get the finish you want – and likely burning a lot of paint in the process!

When can water be added to wall paint?

Many paint brands strongly advise against adding water to their paint if you’re looking for the best finish, but for some applications there’s no harm in adding a small amount of water to certain types of masonry paint – actually adding a little water can be a benefit.

A common reason for adding water to masonry paint is to dilute the paint for the first coat. When you first want to seal a surface it can be very important to add a small amount of water to the paint.

This applies in particular when painting new plaster. Some types of plaster absorb water, so adding some water to the paint can help prime the plaster and prepare your walls for painting.

You can also add water in a very small amount to the paint for some normal applications and for spray application. Spray applications usually require quite a bit of water to allow the paint to work effectively with the spray.

It’s important to remember that not all paints are designed for adding water. Therefore, it is important to inspect the tin and examine the paint if you want to avoid ruining the paint or giving your exterior walls a poor finish.

Wall-colored water: watch out for inferior products

While water in the paint isn’t necessarily a bad thing, and most wall paints have some water content by default, too much water in the paint can damage the finish of your walls.

Cheap masonry paint often contains a lot of water, which means that when the paint dries, the coat of paint is likely to be very thin as the water evaporates.

After applying our protective wall coatings, water rolls off your exterior walls instead of being absorbed by the masonry. In addition, your walls will be protected from wind-driven rain, easier to clean and still breathable

Protecting Your Walls From Water: What To Do

While adding a little water to your paint at some stages of painting is fine, you definitely don’t want it to be absorbed by your walls all the time. A damp wall has a high thermal conductivity, which means that all of the heat in your home can escape through the walls more easily.

At Home Logic we can step in and maintain your exterior walls with a color that is vastly different from what you might find on the shelves at your local hardware store.

Our proPERLA Masonry Cream and Facade Coatings have been developed to give your walls a beautiful finish, but also go a step beyond and offer an exceptional level of water protection.

After applying our protective wall coatings, water rolls off your exterior walls instead of being absorbed by the masonry. In addition, your walls will be protected from wind-driven rain, easier to clean and still breathable.

If the idea of ​​painting the exterior of your home is daunting and you’re concerned that you might not be able to achieve the perfect finish you’re looking for, then this may be a task better left to the professionals. For more information on our protective wall coatings, contact our team today by calling 0800 1700 636 or alternatively by clicking the button below!

Block brushes

A brush block or back is made by drilling holes and inserting tufts of stuffing into those holes. Block brushes, which are commonly made of plastic, metal, or wood, can be made with any type of filament. Brush fills can range from hard to soft in stiffness and large to fine in diameter. The possible uses for pad brushes are almost limitless. The filling material used in the brush can be from natural, synthetic or metallic sources. Common uses for all block brushes are: apply, push, remove, clean, spread or act as a barrier.

Not sure which block brush you need for your business?

Our customer service representatives can answer your questions. Call us at: 1-800-950-7950 or 1-323-724-7777

A block brush is a brush that is generally rectangular, sometimes circular in shape. Block brushes, which are commonly made from plastic, metal, or wood, can be made from any type of filament. Brush fills can range from hard to soft in stiffness and large to fine in diameter.

The block is the support or structure of the entire brush, determining its shape, size, or style. Typical block brush backs consist of an elongated shaped wedge of strong material. Custom block brushes are also available here at America’s favorite brush manufacturer, Gordon Brush®. Simply let us know what you want by filling out our custom brush order form and let our team of dedicated, specialist designers do the rest.

Here at Gordon Brush® we stock every type of filling material that is possible. We stock many block brushes or we can custom manufacture a block brush with natural, synthetic or metal bristles depending on your specific application. The uses for block brushes are almost endless as they are fantastic all-purpose brushes. Some examples of common block brush uses include: applying, pushing, removing, cleaning, scrubbing, spreading, or acting as a barrier.

Gordon Brush® knows what our customers need. No wonder our customer base has remained loyal to our manufactured products over the years. We are proud to be an AMERICAN Manufacturer™. “If there’s a brush, we have it… if not, we make it.”

This article was co-authored by Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Gerber Ortiz-Vega is a masonry specialist and founder of GO Masonry LLC, a masonry company based in Northern Virginia. Gerber specializes in brick and stone laying, concrete installations and masonry repairs. Gerber has over four years experience managing GO Masonry and over ten years general masonry experience. He earned a BA in Marketing from the University of Mary Washington in 2017. This article has been viewed 68,606 times.

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If your brick walls get dirty, you can restore their color with a homemade cleaning product. First, wet the masonry with a hose or spray bottle. This way the bricks won’t absorb your cleaner and fade over time. Mix together 1 cup each of table salt and dish soap to form a paste. Then apply to the masonry in an even layer. Leave it on for 5-10 minutes, scrub the wall with a brush and then wipe off the paste with a damp cloth. For stubborn stains, get an acidic cleaner that you mix with water and spray onto the wall. Just make sure you have gloves and goggles with you so the acid doesn’t irritate your skin or eyes. To keep your bricks in good condition longer, apply a siloxane or silane based sealer to the entire surface of the wall. For more tips, including how to replace a loose brick, read on!

This article was co-authored by Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Gerber Ortiz-Vega is a masonry specialist and founder of GO Masonry LLC, a masonry company based in Northern Virginia. Gerber specializes in brick and stone laying, concrete installations and masonry repairs. Gerber has over four years experience managing GO Masonry and over ten years general masonry experience. He earned a BA in Marketing from the University of Mary Washington in 2017. This article has been viewed 66,123 times.

Article overview

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If your red brick walls are looking a bit dirty or discolored, you can restore their rustic charm with some simple household cleaners. Indoors, use a vacuum to remove surface dirt and dust. Outside, use a garden hose to rinse off the bricks. Then mix ½ cup detergent with 30ml salt and some water to form a paste. Apply the paste to your stones with a clean, damp cloth, leave on for 15 minutes, then wipe or brush off. If your walls still look dirty, wipe them down with vinegar and a clean cloth. For really stubborn stains, mix ½ cup of ammonia with warm water and scrub the wall with it and a stiff brush. Read on for more tips from our cleaning co-author, including sealing your stones to protect them from the elements!

When it comes to painting your walls, there are many different tools that you can use. A popular option is a flat brush. Whether you’re doing minor touch-ups or repainting the entire surface of your wall, a flat brush is a great choice.

If you’re new to D.I.Y. Projects, you’re probably wondering what flat brushes exist, let alone how to paint your walls with them. This article will help you get answers by covering:

Before we dive into how to properly use a flat brush on your walls, let’s dive into some of the best flat brushes out there. If you’re also hoping to paint your disguise, check out our guide to the best brushes for disguise.

The 7 best flat brushes for walls

For a DIY Beginners, finding the right flat brush for your walls can be harder than it seems. If you’re not sure where to start, here are our recommendations for a flat brush for walls.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $29.71

amount: 1

Size: 4 inches

Materials: polyester

Best quality: durability

The Wooster Factory Sale Paint Brush is a great option if you’re looking for a flat brush that will last. The bristles are made of high quality polyester, which is easy to use to paint or touch up your walls. It can also be used with any oil or latex based paint type.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $45.02

amount: 1

Size: 3 inches

Material: nylon polyester

Best quality: Versatility

Although the Purdy XL Swan Flat Wall Brush can be used for a variety of projects, it was specifically designed for walls. Its high-quality bristles enable a beautiful finish with all types of paint. It is also approved for indoor and outdoor projects.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $14.99

Quantity: 5

Size: 1 inch to 3 inches

Materials: S.R.T. filaments

Best quality: variety

If you’re looking to invest in multiple brushes, the Presa Premium Bristle Paint Brush Set is a great choice. The set includes a 3 inch flat brush (perfect for painting your walls) as well as smaller brushes for additional interior work. The brushes provide a smooth finish and are easy to clean.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $27.77

Quantity: 4

Size: 1.5 inch to 3 inch

Material: Synthetic Filaments

Best quality: variety

This is another great brush set if you’re looking to invest in multiple types of brushes. This set of bates brushes includes a 3 inch flat brush that is easy to use to paint your walls. These brushes are as high quality as the finish your walls leave behind.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $24.99

Quantity: 6

Size: 1.5 inch to 3 inch

Material: SRT PET

Best quality: quality

The Precision Defined Professional Paint Brush Set will help you paint your walls and more. This set contains a variety of brushes that you can use to give your walls (and other interior DIY projects) a quality finish. The bristles allow for excellent paint pickup and delivery, while the handles are comfortable to hold and easy to control.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $14.44

Quantity: 3

Size: 1 inch to 3 inches

Material: White Taklon Filament

Best Feature: Acrylic-focused

If you want to work on your walls with acrylic paints, the Linzer/American Brush Maestra White Flat Utility Paint Set is your best choice. The set includes a 3″ brush for your most important painting tasks, as well as 1″ and 2″ brushes for any touch-up or mural work you want to do. The bristles are also soft, making it easy to apply your paint for a smooth finish.

(Image credit: Amazon.ca)

Price: $15.99

Quantity: 5

Size: 0.5 inch to 3 inch

Material: Synthetic Filaments

Best quality: quality

The Magimate Paint Brushes Set is another ideal option for anyone looking for different brushes to paint their walls and house with. This set includes a 100mm (3 inch) flat brush perfect for applying paint to your walls, as well as other smaller brushes for additional work. These brushes can also be used with a variety of colors and on multiple surfaces.

What is the best type of flat brush for walls?

When purchasing a flat brush specifically for your walls, there are a few things to keep in mind. The first thing to consider is the size of the available brushes. Larger sizes — typically found in 3-inch, 4-inch, and 6-inch sizes — are more beneficial if you plan to paint larger sections of your wall. If you want to do more complicated work like touch-ups, look for a brush that’s a smaller size (or a brush set that includes one).

The other thing to consider is the material. A nylon-polyester blend is the most popular overall option and a good choice when working with walls. Also, brushes with soft or medium bristles usually give the best results when trying to achieve a smooth finish.

Walls are best painted with a flat brush

Once you have your brush(es), knowing how to use them is important to get the best results from your walls. Here are some tips to help you learn the best methods of painting your walls with a flat brush.

Use Smaller Amounts of Paint – Dip your bristles about ⅓ into the paint and tap the side of the can with the brush to remove excess paint. This will prevent you from applying too much paint at once and making unnecessary messes.

– Dip your bristles about ⅓ into the paint and tap the side of the can with the brush to remove excess paint. This will prevent you from applying too much paint at once and making unnecessary messes. Hold the brush at an angle – It is recommended to hold the brush at an angle of about 45 degrees. This will help you stay in control as you paint.

– It is recommended to keep the brush at around 45 degrees. This will help you stay in control as you paint. Spread Your Paint – After applying your paint for the first time, you should start sweeping it horizontally across the surface. This contributes to a smoother finish.

– Once you’ve applied your paint for the first time, you should start sliding it horizontally across the surface. This contributes to a smoother finish. Try Feathers – Lift the brush off the wall at the end of each stroke. This will prevent marks or lines from being left behind.

Now that you know all about using a flat brush to paint your walls, it’s time to get started. If you’d rather go the professional route, City Painters are here to help. Contact us here or call us to get a quote for your project.

Cleaning new masonry construction can and has been a challenge for many of us across the country. As mortar specialists, the SPEC MIX® team is constantly asked, “Hey, what do you want me to wash this building with?” Masonry cleaners are very similar to mortar, as it is important to match the cleaner to the masonry bricks and mortar, as well as proper washing procedures to guarantee success. With that in mind, we have once again turned to the industry experts at PROSOCO for help. Like SPEC MIX® Mudslingers when it comes to grout, PROSOCO engineers are available to consult with your team on what cleaning products and processes would best suit your project. They have created these 10 do’s for cleaning new masonry construction that will help anyone successfully clean their masonry projects.

Compared to the cost of a brick, stone, or architectural concrete building, the price of post-construction rehabilitation is nothing more than an afterthought. A good cleaning will reveal the true beauty of the masonry. However, if the brickwork is cleaned incorrectly, its appearance can be irreparably ruined.

Here are “10 do’s” to avoid common pitfalls when cleaning new brickwork:

1. You must not sandblast or use hydrochloric acid.

Both methods damage surfaces. Blasting with sand or sand substitute will etch brick and mortar joints. It makes masonry susceptible to weather-related decay. Likewise, hydrochloric acid will not stop dissolving work dirt and mortar streaks. It can also etch, bleach, streak, burn, or create brand new metallic stains on the new brickwork.

2. You should use a proprietary cleaner from an established company that backs its products with literature, customer service, and job site and specification writing assistance.

Proprietary cleaners have special ingredients that increase the “hold time,” making them more effective on a larger area than crude acids. The same ingredients ensure even results over the entire masonry surface. Many actually enhance the original depth of color and uniformity of brick, block, tile and other masonry.

One of the most important parts of a new masonry cleaner is not in the cleaner. It is the technical support that comes with the cleaner. A reputable company wants to do more than sell you a product. A reputable company wants you to be successful and will make sure you have the right product and information to do it. Distributors, architects, and contractors are good sources to identify such companies.

3. Thou shalt not clean until the mortar has hardened.

The best time for cleaning is 14 to 28 days after construction is completed. Mortar and grout veils are more difficult to clean the longer they are on the surface. Cleaning before the mortar has hardened – usually within seven days – can damage the joints. One exception: High strength mortars (“S” type or compressive strength of 1800 psi and above) are best cleaned within 3-7 days. Always test first.

4. You must carefully follow all safety precautions in the product literature.

Many of these guidelines are common sense, such as “do not get this product in your eyes” or “wear protective clothing”. Policies such as “Do not cut or alter these cleaning products with other chemicals or bleach – toxic gases may be released” can save lives as well as masonry.

Use the cleaner only as directed. The results can be unpredictable if you use the cleaner for something else. By carefully following all safety guidelines – written by field service experts – you maximize your chances of a successful, accident-free cleaning job.

5. You shall test before you cleanse.

Try your cleaner on a hidden or secluded part of the surface. Manufacturers typically recommend a 4 square foot test cleaning. Test any type of surface and any type of stain. What dissolves one type of stain may leave another untouched. What cleans nicely on one surface may damage another. Not all errors in masonry cleaning can be corrected.

Test under the same conditions as when cleaning. Test panels made in August may not be suitable for cleaning in October when temperatures are lower. Clean with the same thinner and equipment you tested.

6. You should pre-wet the surface thoroughly with clean water.

This is perhaps the most important step in giving a building a consistent, clean look. By pre-wetting, the cleaner remains on the surface, where it unfolds its effect. The cleaner cannot penetrate a thoroughly pre-wetted surface. The water has already done that.

If you’re walking down a wall and cleaning as you go, make sure you pre-wet as you do so.

7. Apply the cleaner with a low-pressure sprayer or wall cleaning brush.

High pressure spray – over 50psi – drives the cleaner directly into the brick. Once inside, it is difficult or impossible to rinse out. stains result. Whether you apply with a low-pressure sprayer or a densely packed, soft-fibre wall plaster brush is not a problem.

Stains and residues can also occur as a result of the cleaning agent “drying out” on the masonry. Thorough prewetting helps prevent drying out. You can also reapply the product for a minute or two if the first application dries up too quickly.

8. Thou shalt rinse thoroughly.

A few passes with a garden hose is not enough. Weak rinsing leaves stains and residue. On exterior surfaces, high-pressure water flushes of at least 400 psi and four to six gallons per minute are standard. Inside, use plenty of clean water and a sponge or soft brush to rinse the surface.

If you don’t have a lot of clean water, apply a neutralizing solution of 2 ounces of baking soda per gallon of water. Leave it on for three to five minutes. Then wipe off with clear water and a sponge or a soft brush.

9. Thou shalt not brush in cold weather without special precautions.

It cleans best when air and wall surface temperatures are 40°F or greater. It is best NOT to clean when temperatures are below freezing or will be overnight. Many cleaning compounds rely on chemical reactions to work. Cold slows the reaction. You can try to compensate by overapplying and accidentally damaging the brickwork.

If it’s 32°F or below, rinse water can freeze in saturated masonry and cause more damage. However, if during the cold months both the air temperature and the surface temperature of the masonry rise above 40 ° C (check the masonry with a thermometer), proceed with these precautions:

Use hot water (180°) for prewetting and rinsing. Increasing the surface temperature improves the efficiency of the cleaner.

Extend the exposure time by 10-20 percent, but don’t let the cleaner dry out.

Consider scaffolding covered with polyethylene. Indoor space heaters can heat the surface enough for effective cleaning.

One last warning – the test panels you made in warm weather won’t be accurate in cold weather. In cold weather, test cleaning in cold weather.

10. Thou shalt not do it alone.

Never try to navigate through problems or questions. Your dealer, sales representative or the manufacturer’s customer service will be happy to help you. The right answer is usually just a phone call away.

For several centuries, brushes could only be round because their construction was modeled after a quill. However, when metal ferrules were introduced in the 19th century, brushes could be made in a variety of shapes, most notably flat and hazel. The Impressionists embraced this new development in brushmaking and turned the art world upside down with the new marking possibilities offered by the new forms.

Today there are many different shapes – some more necessary than others – but the round, flat and hazel types remain the most important types.

round brushes

Ask people to draw an artist’s brush and most will probably draw a round brush – a slender handle with a thick, round head that tapers to a fine point.

A sable round brush

A round brush with pig bristles

One reason for this is that for several centuries the technology of making brushes was based on the spring and by using a tube as the starting point of construction only round brushes could be made. Even today, with a whole range of brush shapes available, the round brush is the one you’re likely to get in your first paint set as a kid, and the brush type that comes with more advanced sets.

A round can be used in a number of ways, e.g. For example, you can fill, draw, apply washes, dab small amounts of paint from the tip, or create a thin line for detail and vary thick to thin marks by dragging the brush away from the surface.

Varying pressure on the brush head creates pointed marks

Water-carrying properties of a sable brush

Also suitable for filling larger areas.

Flat brushes

A flat brush has a row of hair that is clamped flat in the ferrule and trimmed square across the top edge to create a rectangular brush head.

A long flat pig brush

A short synthetic flat brush

There are two types of flat brushes – a long flat brush with fairly long hairs protruding from the ferrule, and a short flat brush, also known as a lighter one, which has shorter hairs. The long flat area carries more color and is flexible for more flourishing markings due to the longer hairs.

The light one, with its shorter hair, is better suited to “stippling” marks used by the Impressionists, offering more control for detail and cannot be “scrubbed” into the surface.

There are two things to keep in mind when it comes to apartments. One is that there are no standard brush sizes, so one manufacturer’s long flat brushes can be very similar to another manufacturer’s short flat brush, and the other is that the terms “short” and “long” are in no way related to the length of the brush handles – they only describe the brush head.

When choosing a flat brush, look at the brush head and compare the width of the brush to the length of the hair so you can judge if the range will suit your painting style.

hazelnut brushes

A hazelnut is a flat brush with the hairs rounded into an oval at the tip. Possibly the most versatile of all brush shapes, it’s a staple of oil and acrylic painting.

A hazelnut brush with synthetic fibers

The hazelnut gets its name from its supposed resemblance to the nut of the hazelnut tree – a type of hazelnut – which in turn takes its name from Saint Philibert, on whose feast day the nut ripened. However, based on the shape, I think a more appropriate title should have been “Tombstone”.

The main brush stroke produced is broad but with a soft, subtle top line that allows the marks to instantly blend with previously applied marks. Flipped on its side it can produce a thin line or, when pivoted mid-stroke, give a tapered line. Its versatility makes it a very popular form and most artists working in oils or acrylics will surely have a number of hazelnuts – if not just the one essential – in their brush collection.

fan brushes

As you’d expect, this brush is in the shape of an open fan and is used for blending and creating highlights to resemble leaves in landscapes.

Dab markings with a fan can suggest foliage, fur, waves or clouds…

…but is especially useful for blending colors or smoothing brushstrokes.

Rigger brushes

A round with much longer hair than a standard round for painting fine lines. The longer hair allows the hand to hold the brush closer to the brush head for better control and absorbs any handshake as the brush is moved evenly across the surface.

Perfect for fine lines

Spotter Brush

A round where the hair has been clamped in the ferrule around the belly of the brush head to trim the hair for a more controllable mark as its flexibility is limited.

Alongside the traces of a round brush, it’s possible to see the very fine detail that a spotter or miniature can achieve.

Angled flat brushes

A plane where the hair or fibers have been cut at an angle across the top edge to paint lines and edges, especially vertical lines.

The angled plane can create thick and thin marks similar to a calligraphy nib.

deer foot brushes

This is a round that appears to be cut in half at a slight angle and can be used for stippling to effect foliage or just to add texture.

The dotted markings on the deer foot brush create a textured look.

comb brushes

Term for any type of brush that has hairs of varying lengths such that tufts of hair sticking out from the others repeatedly leave small marks to create the appearance of foliage or fur. Combs are available as flat, hazelnut or fans – as above.

This flat comb shows how the small marks left by the protruding tufts give the appearance of fur.

The comb creates many small marks in one go.

You will be pleasantly surprised at the impact a beautifully painted brick wall can have on your home.

For best results:

Check out our guide for step-by-step instructions.

Block brushes

A brush block or back is made by drilling holes and inserting tufts of stuffing into those holes. Block brushes, which are commonly made of plastic, metal, or wood, can be made with any type of filament. Brush fills can range from hard to soft in stiffness and large to fine in diameter. The possible uses for pad brushes are almost limitless. The filling material used in the brush can be from natural, synthetic or metallic sources. Common uses for all block brushes are: apply, push, remove, clean, spread or act as a barrier.

Not sure which block brush you need for your business?

Our customer service representatives can answer your questions. Call us at: 1-800-950-7950 or 1-323-724-7777

A block brush is a brush that is generally rectangular, sometimes circular in shape. Block brushes, which are commonly made from plastic, metal, or wood, can be made from any type of filament. Brush fills can range from hard to soft in stiffness and large to fine in diameter.

The block is the support or structure of the entire brush, determining its shape, size, or style. Typical block brush backs consist of an elongated shaped wedge of strong material. Custom block brushes are also available here at America’s favorite brush manufacturer, Gordon Brush®. Simply let us know what you want by filling out our custom brush order form and let our team of dedicated, specialist designers do the rest.

Here at Gordon Brush® we stock every type of filling material that is possible. We stock many block brushes or we can custom manufacture a block brush with natural, synthetic or metal bristles depending on your specific application. The uses for block brushes are almost endless as they are fantastic all-purpose brushes. Some examples of common block brush uses include: applying, pushing, removing, cleaning, scrubbing, spreading, or acting as a barrier.

Gordon Brush® knows what our customers need. No wonder our customer base has remained loyal to our manufactured products over the years. We are proud to be an AMERICAN Manufacturer™. “If there’s a brush, we have it… if not, we make it.”

How to prepare exterior walls for painting

Preparing the masonry for painting isn’t too difficult, but each step is critical to achieving a brilliant finish. If you’re looking to repaint your brickwork, here’s how to prepare any type of brickwork for painting.

Remove peeling paint

Use a wire brush to remove any peeling paint that you can see. Be sure to remove any unstable colors in this step, as the new color will need a solid surface to adhere to.

Fill in all cracks

If you notice any cracks or holes in the brickwork, these must be filled before you start painting. You can use any good quality masonry trowel for this step. However, remember that most fillers shrink as they dry, so you may need to reapply them before proceeding to the next step.

Ribbons

If you’ve had to fill in cracks and holes for a good finish, you’ll need to sand the putty knife smooth to ensure a good finish. You may also need to sand the current paint to remove minor cracks that don’t need filling. Take your time sanding the brickwork as this will provide an excellent finish when you start painting.

cleaning

If there is mold, dust or dirt on the masonry, you need to clean it. Otherwise, the paint will stick to the dirt and dust, not the brickwork, and will not give the desired results. Make sure all dirt is removed and allow the masonry to dry before painting.

Mask

One of the most important parts of painting brickwork is masking anything you don’t want paint on. Windows, doors, wood for example should all be masked off. Depending on the painting technique you decide to use, you might even want to cover bushes and things around the house to make sure overspray doesn’t get on them.

How to prepare brickwork for paint. But which painting technique should you use? Well, we have articles on the common painting techniques here that will help you decide.