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Table of Contents
What fuel does VW recommend?
Volkswagen vehicles do not require premium gas. However, many Volkswagen vehicles, like the 2021 Volkswagen Tiguan and 2020 Volkswagen Jetta, are equipped with turbocharged engines. Turbocharged engines run best when fueled with high octane fuel, which is found in premium gas.
What fuel does a classic Beetle use?
You need a fuel with the right octane number. For any low compression bug engine, you need a fuel with 87AKI in the USA, or 91RON octane in any other part of the world. Using a higher octane fuel wont harm the engine in any way, but it’s unnecessary unless you are getting some pinging/detonation.
Can I put unleaded 88 in my Volkswagen Jetta?
All gasoline and flex fuel vehicles 2001 and newer can use Unleaded 88. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) tested and approved the use of this fuel in all light-duty vehicles made in 2001 and later*.
How heavy is a VW air-cooled engine?
3 Answers. 200-250 pounds depending on what parts are mounted.
Can I put 87 in my Volkswagen?
Though most 2016 models are now recommended to use 87 octane gasoline, this isn’t the case with all Volkswagen vehicles. We also have heard nothing on a change in recommendation for previous model years.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
The last thing you want to do is pay thousands of dollars for a vehicle only to have it ruined by putting the wrong gas in your vehicle. You know your petrol engine isn’t designed to run on diesel, but whether it’s okay to switch to a different grade of petrol may be less clear. If you are wondering “will using regular fuel ruin my Volkswagen engine?” The answer is no, but up until this year premium fuel was recommended. Volkswagen has now changed the recommendation to regular fuel for many vehicles from the 2016 model year.
Which Volkswagen models can be operated with normal gas?
Although the use of 87 octane petrol is now recommended for most 2016 models, this is not the case for all Volkswagen vehicles. We also haven’t heard anything about changing the recommendation for earlier model years. It’s unclear whether or not VW changed the tuning of the engine, so we can’t in good faith say that you should steer clear of the 91 octane option if you have an older Volkswagen. For the 2016 model year, it is recommended that the following vehicles be run on normal gas:
CCVR6
Beetle
Beetle convertible
golf
Golf GTI
Golf sports car
jetta
Jetta GLI
Passat VR6
Touareg
More turbo engines: 2016 Volkswagen Jetta 1.4T engine upgrade
For those who like a little more pizzazz when pedaling, you’ll find that Volkswagen still gets its performance specs from using premium fuel, so that option is still there if you don’t mind paying more at the pump . The savings numbers, on the other hand, are from the EPA and regular gasoline is used. So it’s entirely your choice what you think is best and how you want to ride. We’ll say that if you’re a little short on your hard-earned cash, your 2016 model won’t take any harm.
Do you have other burning questions about caring for your VW? Leave us a comment below and we’ll get back to you. Otherwise, stay tuned to the Trend Motors Blog here for more posts from our Service Center.
Can I use 91 octane instead 95?
It won’t hurt your engine if you use a higher octane fuel. For example, if you use 95 or 98 in an engine designed for 91, that’s fine. However, avoid using a lower octane fuel than the minimum recommended by the manufacturer. Using 91 in an engine designed for 95 or 98 is potentially destructive.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
What types of petrol are there?
The most relevant are the numbers. Standard unleaded petrol is 91. This is sort of the standard for many cars. Premium unleaded is both 95 and 98. Ethanol blended e10 (a blend of up to 10% ethanol in gasoline) is a fuel that can be used as a replacement for 91 in most cars.
These numbers – 91, 95 and 98 – comprise the octane rating of the fuel. They are all about the same in terms of energy in the fuel. True octane rating is a measure of how much heat and pressure a fuel can withstand before igniting.
Manufacturers design engines for a minimum octane rating. If you open your car’s fuel filler flap and it says “unleaded petrol only”, it means that 91 octane fuel is fine. If it says ‘Premium unleaded only’, that means you need to fill up at least 95. And if the fuel filler flap tells you to fill up with 98, use 98.
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Can I put higher octane fuel in my car?
It will not harm your engine if you use higher octane fuel. For example, if you use 95 or 98 in an engine designed for 91, that’s fine. However, avoid using a fuel with a lower octane rating than the manufacturer’s recommended minimum. Using 91 in an engine designed for 95 or 98 is potentially destructive.
High octane gasoline, often referred to as premium or supreme, sounds like it should be a hell of a lot above plain old regular gasoline. Fuel dealers say it improves overall performance and engine efficiency. Retailers don’t lie, but sometimes they exaggerate the benefits. Most engines will only adjust slightly if you run them on higher octane fuel than the recommended minimum.
In practice, however, the improvement is small and the higher octane fuel price premium always obscures the economic benefit of its operation. In other words, it’s not an economically sound decision to run 98 in an engine designed for 91, even if it might run a little better. The small increase in fuel consumption is not enough to overcome the additional cost. A premium label also does not mean that the fuel is of better quality. Because all petrol sold in New Zealand has to meet strict quality standards.
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The reality
While it may seem that using a higher octane gasoline than specified for your vehicle could unleash a hidden power in your engine, don’t actually do anything about it. Most cars in New Zealand are designed to run on 91 octane fuel.
So just use what your car is designed for and you’ll be fine.
What about e10?
Ethanol increases octane and can improve performance, but the slight downside is that fuel economy can increase by about 3%. It is not a substitute for premium unleaded petrol. If your car needs 95 or 98, e10 is not a viable fuel for it. Most cars on New Zealand roads designed for 91 petrol can accept e10 – but you should check the owner’s manual first, or ask the manufacturer or dealer.
What do you say about fuel prices?
A Trade Commission fuel market study conducted last year found that motorists are paying more for petrol than they should. The report revealed that companies are making high profits due to a lack of competition in the industry.
Following the report, the government introduced the Fuel Industry Bill. It aims to introduce changes it says will encourage greater competition in the wholesale-level fuel market and ideally result in lower prices for motorists. Their focus on changes at the wholesale level is intended to give smaller players like Waitomo and Gull access to cheaper fuel.
Regulatory changes in the Fuel Industry Bill required a more transparent wholesale pricing system and rules to ensure contracts between wholesale fuel suppliers and their customers support competition. As part of this, the three largest companies, Mobil, BP and Z, are now required to publicly disclose the wholesale price of fuel coming through their terminals.
There have also been some temporary changes in fuel charges recently due to high inflation. You can read a more detailed breakdown of fuel costs here in New Zealand, including the surcharge you pay for each liter, by clicking on the link below:
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This report was written by Canstar Content Producer Nicole Barratt. Nicole began her career in news journalism, working for one of New Zealand’s leading newspapers. After her news job, she freelanced for newspapers such as The Sunday Star Times and NZ Life & Leisure Magazine. More recently, she has applied her research and writing skills to Canstar in the world of finance.
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Will a classic Beetle run on E10 fuel?
While classic vehicles can happily run on the E5 petrol currently on sale, the new E10 fuel with its higher percentage of ethanol can cause all sorts of problems for them. According to the Department for Transport (DfT), the potential issues include: Blocked fuel filters.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
The planned introduction of E10 petrol poses some serious challenges for owners of classic cars. But now the government is deliberating on ways to preserve the supply of E5 fuel for classic cars…
After an initial period of consultation, the Department for Transport has confirmed its intention to introduce a “greener” standard for unleaded fuel, E10, in 2021.
As part of the Government’s stated goal of net-zero carbon emissions by 2050, Transport Secretary Grant Shaps announced that switching to E10 petrol, which contains up to 10% bioethanol, would save up to 750,000 tonnes could CO2 per year. The government estimates that this would have the same effect as removing 350,000 vehicles from the road.
But there is a big problem for owners of classic cars. While classic vehicles can easily run on the currently available E5 petrol, the new E10 fuel with its higher ethanol content causes them all sorts of problems.
According to the Department of Transport (DfT), potential problems include:
Clogged fuel filters
Damaged fuel pumps
Degradation to flexible fuel hoses
Corroded carburetors
Lakai James asked an expert, Martin Greaves of Classic Performance Engineering, to clarify the situation for motorists.
How does E10 fuel cause problems?
“The switch to mainly E10 fuel is a real problem for classic car owners. Ethanol in fuel has been around since 2008 and in the industry we are already seeing problems arising from the current blending of small amounts of ethanol into existing fuels (even up to 5%). These problems include deposits that clog fine mesh fuel filters, wear on fuel lines and hoses, and carburetor internals that suffer corrosion.
The system required to fully drain and clean fuel systems between uses of the vehicle is prohibitive in both time and practicality, and replacing components with ethanol-compatible components may not always be economical or even possible in certain cases.”
How many cars will be affected?
Whilst current estimates suggest that 700,000 vehicles that are not E10 fuel compatible are in regular use on Britain’s roads, the government estimates that most of these will be eliminated through scrap schemes and only a few of the so-called ‘loved and classic “ Vehicles remain.
What can owners of classic cars do?
Martin commented: “Classic cars will still be able to run on E5 petrol as the government has pledged that when E10 goes on sale there will still be E5 petrol, but there is an economic catch for classic car owners. as it can only be sold unleaded in the ‘Super’ class.”
On the same day the consultation was announced, the Chairman of the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC), David Whale, attended a meeting in the House of Commons with the All Party Parliamentary Historic Vehicles Group, chaired by Sir Greg Knight Participated to underline the concerns of the members of the federation directly with the deputies.
The following question was put to the Foreign Secretary for Transport by Sir Greg Knight, Conservative MP for East Yorkshire:
“To ask the Secretary of State for Transport what is his assessment of the potential impact of using E10 fuel on older vehicles?”
Which received the following response from Rachel Maclean, Parliamentary Under-Secretary (Department of Transport):
“Increasing the proportion of bioethanol in petrol by blending it up to 10 percent, known as E10, could result in significant CO2 savings and help us meet our climate change commitments. One of the main obstacles to adopting E10 was vehicle compatibility. Currently around 95% of petrol cars used in the UK can use E10, but around 700,000 are not guaranteed by their manufacturers to use E10. This number is expected to decrease as vehicles reach end of life. However, some classic and valued vehicles that are discouraged from using E10 continue to be used. Prolonged use of E10 fuel in older and classic vehicles that are not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty can cause corrosion of some rubbers and alloys used in the engine and fuel systems. For these vehicles, the Department remains committed to maintaining E5 as a protection class when E10 is introduced.”
The DfT has also said there would be a review after five years to see if there is a viable and widely available alternative for owners of older cars and if continued E5 sales remain reasonable.
Information from the FBHVC on its position on the E10 fuel consultation can be found on its website.
David Bond, Managing Director of FJ, commented: “There is already an agreement that petrol stations must sell E5 petrol when a certain amount of petrol is sold. That may fade over time. But at the same time, the history of cars has been about innovation and development. Manufacturers are already looking at things like synthetic fuels.”
He added: “For petrol stations that stock both types of petrol and supply at least 1 million liters of fuel each year, they must ensure that a product has a Super E5 rating. So not necessarily all gas stations can do that, so you can see that some gas stations don’t deliver it. But there will still be enough out there and others are also looking for additives to put in the vehicle or if the cars could actually run well on E10.
Is there a downside to lead-free “Super”?
Martin commented, “The downside to this 5% ethanol ‘Super’ lead-free grade is that we are already seeing problems at this 5% level. When these are taken into account in addition to the additional costs charged for this fuel, this becomes a greater cause for concern.”
“Beyond pure cost, the other major concern shared by many in the industry is whether or not the fuel will be readily and widely available over the long term.”
“Overall, the low mileage driven by the average classic car owner is likely to reduce any possible harmful effects of ethanol fuel in ‘super’ unleaded petrol and minimize the actual added cost of ‘super’ petrol.”
Could E10 actually be good for your classic?
Fuel expert Paul Ireland believes that the positive effects of E10 on the running of your classic engine could actually outweigh the negative. You can read more about his thoughts in our blog post. New E10 petrol engine can mean that classics “run better”.
What do you think? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below.
The information contained in this blog post is based on sources we believe to be reliable and should be considered as general information only. It is not intended and should not be relied upon as advice in relation to any particular or individual situation.
Is VW Beetle compatible with E10 fuel?
A statement said: “Basically, all Volkswagen vehicles, with the exception of some first-generation FSIs, are approved for use with the E10.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
The affected cars were all built between 2001 and 2006, but many may still be on the road or in the possession of collectors.
A report by the European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA) states that E10 fuel would be approved for almost all petrol engines.
There would be “few exceptions” though, including a number of the firm’s well-loved classics.
The ACEA statement states: “With a few exceptions, E10 is approved for use in all Volkswagen vehicles with petrol engines.
READ MORE: E10 fuel changes may affect hundreds of Ford owners
Is e88 better than e87?
88-octane gas is better for the environment and costs less than 87-octane. While there is some debate out there on the positives with ’88’ it technically burns cooler than 87 when cars are equipped with the latest technology.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
Their 88-octane gas, known as UNL88, will be priced at $3.99 per gallon through July 4th, and their e85 gas will also be offered at a lower price. But not every car will be able to run on the new petrol. Here are a few things you should know before making the change.
Not every car can run either e85 or what Sheetz calls their 88-octane blend. Most likely your vehicle can run on at least one, the 88 octane blend. Far fewer cars can drive with e85.
Officially, the federal government has required automakers to be equipped with engine parts that can automatically set a vehicle to 88 octane without a single driver action. Only a select group of cars can use e85.
While the federal government says it’s acceptable to use the 88-octane blend, using the fuel in your vehicle could void the manufacturer’s warranty.
The 88 octane is just a fancy way of saying E15 gas. This is a gasoline blend that mixes gas with 15 percent ethanol. 87-octane must not contain more than 10 percent ethanol. The difference between 87 and 88 is an additional 5% ethanol. This is important because if you have an owner’s manual for a vehicle manufactured between 2002 and 2015, it likely lists the maximum amount of ethanol up to 10 percent.
Most manuals for cars manufactured in 2016 or later will probably list the maximum amount of ethanol as up to 15 percent. e85 vehicles have ethanol shares of up to 85 percent. Vehicles should mention being able to run e85 gas around the gas cap.
88 octane petrol is better for the environment and costs less than 87 octane petrol. While there is some debate out there about the positives of ’88’, technically it burns cooler than 87 when cars are fitted with the latest technology. It can also deliver more power because the higher the octane rating, the more pressure the gas will produce when ignited. Pressure can be converted to horsepower by engines, but in most cars there is little or no change in horsepower. NASCAR runs exclusively on e15 gasoline and INDY cars use e85.
There are a few potential downsides to running at 88 octane. At 88 octane there should be less than a 5 percent MPG loss. When you factor in the normal cost of 88 octane, you usually have the edge when it comes to pennies per mile. Vehicles that cannot operate on 88 octane can experience long-term engine damage, including a greater likelihood of fluid leaks.
Engines not equipped with newer 88 octane equipment could potentially overheat.
With this weekend’s big sell-off, that difference might be hard to ignore for some. Mechanics say any problems with using 88-octane come with long-term use, and this weekend seems like the perfect time to try a new brand of gasoline that could help your wallet.
88 octane is not recommended for engines that will remain full for long periods of time, generally a month is considered the shutdown time. This means things like lawn mowers and other power tools with combustible engines should probably stay at 87.
Why is 88 octane cheaper than 87?
Q: Why is octane 88 priced lower than regular gas? A: Because of government ethanol subsidies, so the more ethanol in the gas, the lower the cost.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
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What cars can run unleaded 88?
Unleaded 88 has been approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for use in all 2001 and newer cars, trucks and SUVs.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
How long do VW air-cooled engines last?
I have found an average lifespan for stock engines around 60,000 miles. In every case, it was only the heads that actually caused the teardown. 100,000 miles for reasonably driven and serviced engine cylinders and bearings was not that unusual.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
author message
beichholz
Joined: July 26, 2009
Posts: 113
Location: Hollywood, CA
Samba Member Joined: July 26, 2009 Posts: 113 Location: Hollywood, CA
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:08am Post subject: Engine Overhaul – How Long Do Air Cooled VW Engines Last? I searched for it but didn’t find a good link. My question is: How long is a VW 1600 air-cooled engine expected to last? My mechanic says 25-30k miles but that seems like little. Please consider answering the survey above.
I read in a VW book that it’s only 17,000 for people who shift too early (and lug the engine) or shift too late. There are four recommendations for getting to 100,000:
* Warm up the car every time before driving
* Switch at the right time
* Adjust the values regularly
* Change oil frequently (obviously)
My mechanic also says to adjust the torque on the cylinders about 500 miles after a fresh overhaul.
Any other suggestions out there? I searched for it but didn’t find a good link. My question is: How long is a VW 1600 air-cooled engine expected to last? My mechanic says 25-30k miles but that seems like little. Please consider answering the survey above. I read in a VW book that it’s only 17,000 for people who shift too early (and lug the engine) or shift too late. It has four recommendations for getting to 100K: * Warm up the car before driving, every time * Shift at the right time * Adjust values regularly * Change oil frequently (obviously) My mechanic also says to adjust the torque on the cylinder about 500 miles after a fresh overhaul. Any other suggestions out there?
tjeckelberg
Joined: February 02, 2009
Posts: 107
Location: USA – Ohio
Samba Member Joined: February 2, 2009 Posts: 107 Location: US – Ohio
Posted: Wed Jan 13 2010 8:56 AM Post subject: Regardless of the reason for the engine failure, I believe these engines have been in use long enough to give an average lifespan.
I would imagine collecting such data would be difficult, which is probably why there is no advertised average.
gary
Joined: 11/01/2002
Posts: 17069
Location: 127.0.0.1
Person of Interest Joined: November 1, 2002 Posts: 17069 Location: 127.0.0.1
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:23 am Post subject:
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West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943) Which weighs more: 1 pound of concrete or 1 pound of feathers _________________West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943)
tom
Joined: October 12, 2000
Posts: 5934
Location: Sacramento
Samba Member Joined: October 12, 2000 Posts: 5934 Location: Sacramento
Posted: Wed Jan 13 2010 9:37 AM Post subject: What is the sound of a rod knocking?
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1956 single cab
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sparkling
Joined: January 09, 2008
Posts: 1098
Location: California
Samba Member Joined: January 9, 2008 Posts: 1098 Location: California
Posted: Wed Jan 13 2010 9:54 AM Post subject: thom wrote: What is the sound of a rod knocking?
Thomas…
When the engine is off, you can’t hear it.
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’56 Karmann Ghia coupe stock
’59 Italian Series I Li150 Lambretta Stock
“Give a man a fish, feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, feed him for a lifetime.”
“It’s only at low tide that you discover who’s swimming naked.” Thom… When the engine’s off you can’t hear it Teach a man to fish, feed him for a lifetime.” “It’s not until the tide goes in that you discover who’s swimming naked.”
pine net
Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Samba Search & Rescue Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Posted: Wed Jan 13 2010 10:26 AM Post subject: John Moxon wrote: This is really a pointless poll. There are so many variables that all options apply. That’s why you couldn’t find an answer to your question during your search…there isn’t one.
X1000
sactojesse
Joined: November 21, 2006
Posts: 2655
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Samba Member Joined: November 21, 2006 Posts: 2655 Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:37 am Post subject: Re: Engine overhaul – How long do VW air cooled engines last beicholz wrote: Any other suggestions out there?
Learn how you can work on it yourself so you don’t have to pay a mechanic.
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1966 Karmann Ghia Convertible Learn how to do it yourself so you don’t have to pay a mechanic._________________ 1966 Karmann Ghia Convertible
cool karmann collected
Joined: November 23, 2008
Posts: 631
Location: Oxford, UK
Samba MemberJoined: November 23, 2008Posts: 631Location: Oxford, U.K
Posted: Wed Jan 13th, 2010 11:42am.
Either way, a well built (or rebuilt) stock engine should last 100,000 miles if properly tuned, maintained and run. Obviously the law of the sod still applies and it could fail much sooner!
I have a bay with a stock 1600 dp (the one it left the factory with) that has over 135000 miles on it and runs like a charm. It has never been overhauled, nor has the carburetor been overhauled. Oil consumption is minimal and there is no axial play. Since a bus engine generally works harder than a Ghia, that mileage could be even higher in a car body.
ant
Nikita
Joined: September 16, 2007
Posts: 531
Location: California
Samba Member Joined: September 16, 2007 Posts: 531 Location: California
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:01 PM Post subject: I have found an average life for stock engines to be around 60,000 miles. In any case, it was just the heads that actually caused the teardown. 100,000 miles for properly driven and maintained engine cylinders and bearings was not uncommon. In the case of buses in particular, “your mileage may vary”.
Often I only made heads and rings. Connecting rod bearing and crank are tested without splitting the housing.
Cars that are not driven regularly may need to be disassembled every 10 to 20 years regardless of mileage due to leaks from hardened, shriveled gaskets.
Fastinradford
Joined: June 08, 2008
Posts: 2895
Location: Athens Ohio
Samba MemberJoined: June 8, 2008Posts: 2895Location: Athens Ohio
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:49 PM Post subject:
Anyone who tells you to go easy on your engine has not seen many well-built cars.
If the engines had only lasted 60,000 VW wouldn’t have sold many cars!!!
_________________
95 jetta 5spd, (first water pump vw)
the nice 74 Ghia, (of course the fiancé drives that).
My mk1 jetta 1.6d
“It would still be like my grandfather’s old broom though, original, just 3 new heads and 2 new handles” -Marv [UK] this thread is silly, push it hard and keep up with scheduled maintenance, 100k or more . Anyone telling you to go easy on your engine, there haven’t been many well-built cars. If the engines only lasted 60,000, VW wouldn’t have sold many cars! Of course the fiancé drives this one. My mk1 jetta 1.6d “It would still be like my grandfather’s old broom though, original, just 3 new heads and 2 new handles” -Marv [UK]
cmclelland
Joined: March 29, 2006
Posts: 183
Samba MemberJoined: March 29, 2006Posts: 183
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:28 PM Post subject: It’s a fair question in my opinion. Thank you to those who took it seriously.
Clive in Lynchburg
djkeev
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 30124
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
Samba Moderator Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 30124 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:00 PM Post subject: cmcclelland wrote: It’s a fair question IMHO. Thank you to those who took it seriously.
Clive in Lynchburg
This is in no way a reasonable question. The amount of variables is overwhelming!
An engine I could run for 200,000 miles, my son-in-law would kill in 20,000!
How are you driving,
Serve it
what oil do you use
Where do you live
etc.
I think the reputation they have for long lasting, reliable service on the freeway is a testament to the fact that you can expect plenty of miles from one of these engines.
I agree that the mechanic who gives you dismal lifespan numbers cannot be trusted to do a quality overhaul!! Run, don’t walk away from him.
I know you are seriously looking for an answer, but there is no such answer.
case study. I know two brothers who both (generous grandmother) got a brand new Hyundai Accent in 2000. Same day delivery, same car (different color).
One brother traded in his Accent for a 2006 Toyota in 2006, the car was perfect, ran well, good body etc.
The other brother (who really wanted a fast American eight-cylinder car) drove the car into the ground. Fast starts, hard stops, yelled around corners, bad service and abused in general all that crap. When he joined the Air Force in 2004, he scrapped his car. Not through accidents, he totally destroyed it through abuse and neglect.
Can you tell me how many miles to expect from your Hyundai Accent? …… no, that’s not possible.
David
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Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert This is in no way a reasonable question. The amount of variables is overwhelming! An engine I could run 200,000 miles, my son-in-law would kill in 20,000 miles! How do you drive, maintain it, what oil do you use, where do you live etc for long lasting reliable service on the highway is proof that you can expect many miles from one of these engines!! Run, don’t walk away from him. I know you’re seriously looking for an answer, but that answer doesn’t exist. Case in point. I know two brothers who both (grandmother) were gifted a brand new Hyundai Accent in 2000. Same day delivery, same car (different color). ran well, good body etc. The other brother (who really wanted a fast American 8 cylinder car) ran the car into the ground. Fast starts, hard stops, yelled around corners, bad service and abused in general all that crap. When he joined the Air Force in 2004, he scrapped his car. Not through accidents, he totally destroyed it through abuse and neglect. Can you tell me how many miles to expect from your Hyundai Accent? …… no, you can’t. Dave_________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Old wagons
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posts: 8149
TrollJoined: February 23, 2007Posts: 8149
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:41 PM Post subject: Yes, it is true that there are too many variables for just one answer. Here is a list of things that are REQUIRED to keep your engine running, which will result in longer overall mileage.
-REASONABLE DRIVING STYLE (granny or hyper mile technique). Note that this car was designed using 1930’s technology, so don’t expect it to perform like a modern car at modern speeds.
-AVOID OVERHEATING THE ENGINE. Install cylinder head temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauges AND MONITOR THEM!!
-KEEP THE ENGINE ATTUNE. This helps keep the engine cool. A properly tuned engine will not overheat or waste exhaust. Appropriate carbohydrates/distributors AND CORRECT TIMING contribute significantly to driving satisfaction/mileage/durability.
-USE ZINC ADDITIVE IN OIL. This will help the cam and lifters the most, but anything that helps avoid bottom end splitting will help. Also change the oil by miles and time. Condensation in the oil contributes to the bearing wearing out quickly. If you only drive a few hundred miles a month, still change the oil every 3 months (unless you live in a very humid place).
– KEEP ALL FACTORY COOLERS. This includes the most important part of the system, thermostat and dampers. You mentioned warming up your engine before driving, you can’t properly warm up an engine without themo and flaps. Proper sheet metal also helps keep the engine cool as designed by the factory engineers.
-PROPER GEAR FOR ENGINE SIZE. 100, 1300 engines should use the R&P of 4.37. 1500 and 1600 should use 4.12 R&P. Read your owner’s manual and listen to your engine. Do not over-rev or drag the engine. The higher the speed, the shorter the life of the motor. Also, use the right size tires to keep the speedometer and gearbox in the right range as intended.
There are some moderate power mods that can help with mileage and will not reduce engine life. Small single-barrel carburetors, tuned exhaust and manifold to match can give you a “peppy” engine that can help you deal with modern traffic, but remember, foot light equals a happy engine (and wallet).
My experience is that a properly built/driven and maintained motor will last 100,000. Sometimes a valve job at 50,000 is needed to keep the engine running at peak performance
When I was 17, I got a brand new zero mile 1600 Mexico Long Block. I put a 009, Baby Dells, in an S&S header and threw the crap out like any teenager would in a 59 Vert. I put 40,000 on it and then put it in my ’63 bus. Download this puppy and drive anywhere and add another 20,000. Did a valve job and changed some seals and put it back on the bus. Add another 40,000 for camping, hauling parts to Pomona, and general bus duties. After 20 years I finally pulled the motor as the performance dropped WAY. Valve springs were shot and the cylinders were worn out unusable. The case was beaten, the crank was gouged out to hell and the rods gone too.
Moral of the story, even a motor driven by a teenager and then put on a bus for more torture can hit 90,000. The only reason I think it’s lived this long is because I’ve always tuned it out and changed the oil every 1500-200 miles. If I was going to put it to heavy use I would change the oil regardless of how many miles or time was on it. If I had driven more sensibly more parts could have been reused for the rebuild but to be honest I was happy to replace the OE cast crank with a good forged German unit!!
beichholz
Joined: July 26, 2009
Posts: 113
Location: Hollywood, CA
Samba Member Joined: July 26, 2009 Posts: 113 Location: Hollywood, CA
Posted: Wed Jan 13 2010 9:43 PM Post subject: Wow…I’m a bit surprised by some of the answers…and surprised that so many people think it’s a stupid question (I still think she’s a great question). How refreshing are some of the insights from the positive feedback!
My conclusion is that 100km is possible in very good conditions and there is a lot of variability (no surprise). This is MUCH better than many other small cars of the 60’s and 70’s. But it’s not as good as many current cars (small Japanese Econobox cars can easily hit 200k, and Prius cabs in a Canadian experiment are in the 250k range, going strong.).
Let’s see… If I drive 1000 miles a year (weekends only) I’ll have good… I think I can pass this car on to the next generation.
Thank you to those of you who have provided some good insight. Very appreciated!
Bugninva
Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
Samba MemberJoined: December 14, 2004Posts: 8858Location: sound it out.
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:52 PM Post subject: fastinradford wrote:
If the engines had only lasted 60,000 VW wouldn’t have sold many cars!!!
VW was early on giving away replacement engines if you drove your VW to that mileage… (a little more at 100,000km)
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[email protected] wrote: show of hands who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Everyone?GEX has. I’m just saying
Old wagons
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posts: 8149
TrollJoined: February 23, 2007Posts: 8149
Posted: Wed Jan 13 2010 10:32 PM Post subject: bugninva wrote: VW early gave away replacement engines if you drove your VW up to that mileage… (a little more at 100,000km)
Yes for the 25hp and 36hp, after the bastard engine in the buses, were they still offering the 100KM engine or just the badges?
John Moxon
Joined: March 07, 2004
Posts: 13556
Location: Southampton UK
Samba Moderator Joined: March 7, 2004 Posts: 13556 Location: Southampton U.K.
Posted: Thursday Jan 14 2010 1:28 AM Post subject: beicholz wrote: Wow…I’m a bit taken aback by some of the answers…and surprised that so many people think it’s a stupid question (I still think it’s a great question).
It’s not a stupid question, but I’m afraid the survey wasn’t a good move…they rarely are because the sample is always too small and in this case the variables are too large.
As you’ve seen, the answers are either very short… or very long because you either think the question doesn’t have an answer or the question doesn’t have an answer… but I’ll try anyway.
At the end of the day, you get a list of recommendations that are basically common sense:
Spend as much as you can on a quality build.
Care for it carefully.
Drive it conservatively.
…that’s roughly what you identified when you posted the original question.
_________________
John.
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My 1958 Shorrock Supercharged Karmann Ghia
No more dead photo links! Post your photos to the Samba Gallery! It’s not a stupid question, but I’m afraid the poll wasn’t a good move… they’re rare because the sample is always too small and in this case the variables are too large. As you’ve seen, the answers are either very short… or very long because either you think the question doesn’t have an answer or the question doesn’t have an answer… but I’ll try anyway. It’s the End of the Day Make a list of recommendations that are basically common sense: Spend as much as you can on a quality build. Take good care of him. Drive it conservatively….that’s about what you noticed when posting the original question.
beichholz
Joined: July 26, 2009
Posts: 113
Location: Hollywood, CA
Samba Member Joined: July 26, 2009 Posts: 113 Location: Hollywood, CA
Posted: Thursday Jan 14, 2010 7:38 am Post subject: John,
I also found the survey interesting. And I learned some new things from the answers. Thanks again to those who replied with useful information. This is a great site.
TheRustySuper
Joined: June 24, 2009
Posts: 2076
Location: New Albany, IN
Samba Member Joined: June 24, 2009 Posts: 2076 Location: New Albany, IN
Posted: Saturday January 23rd, 2010 8:00pm Post subject:
The car starts every time I go out to drive it, runs strong and only occasionally burns oil on startup. It has multiple oil leaks, not much from one particular spot, but a little from pretty much everywhere.
_________________
My 72 Super I’ll just throw my numbers out there. My ’72 Super Beetle has 204.xxx miles on the original engine, no conversions I’m aware of. I know one of the PO’s pretty well and he remembers the motor ran over 100,000 in the 80’s and had 123,000 on it when he gave it to his in-laws. The engine was removed from the car and the thermostat flaps removed. The rocker arm assembly may have been removed as well, but that’s about all that was done to it. The car was well maintained until it sat in a barn for 12 years. I bought it and after riding it out of tune for about 2,000km I got it back into shape and running fine. The car starts every time I pull out, runs strong and only occasionally burns oil on startup. It has multiple oil leaks, not much from one specific spot but a little from pretty much everywhere._________________
How much horsepower can a 1600cc VW engine have?
The initial production of the 1600 was a 1.6-L engine named Type 126. It featured a carburetor fuel system and there were several versions. This engine’s original postwar production was 1100cc, putting out just 25hp, eventually reaching the 60hp 1600cc.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
The History of the VW 1600 Engine The VW 1600 engine is one of a line of air-cooled Volkswagen engines and was among the oldest to make them. Different versions were made between 1936-2006. These air-cooled boxer engines had four horizontally opposed cylinders, cast aluminum alloy cylinder heads and pistons, and a forged steel crankshaft and connecting rods. You can find them in VW models, light aircraft, industrial applications and kit cars. They were mainly used in the Type 1 Beetle, Type 2, Type 3 and Type 4 vehicles. These vehicle engines started at 1000 and progressed to the 1600 model. The original production 1600 was a 1.6L engine called the Type 126. It featured a carburettor fuel system and there were several versions. The original post-war production of this engine was 1100cc, producing only 25hp, eventually reaching the 60hp 1600cc. It would be a while before the company would add fuel injection to this vehicle. After that, it was more about reducing the car’s emissions than improving its performance. The single port was used in the 1966 Type 3 and again in the 1968–1970 Type 2. In the US, it was used in the 1970 Beetle, which is perhaps the best-known engine of this line. It was also used in the 1970 Karmann Ghia. The twin port model was also used on several cars including the 1967–1973 Type 3 and 1971 Type 2. It was used in the 1971–1979 Beetle, 1971–1974 Karmann Ghia and 1971 VW Puma –Found in 1989. It has been installed in more than 25 million vehicles. Today it is mostly a historic engine, bought for conversions and restoration work. Of course, that makes it a little harder to find, but the unique design and long history of this engine makes it worth the work.
Which models have a VW 1600 engine? The model range for the VW 1600 engine included a number of cars including: 1966 Type 3
1968 to 1970 Type 2
1971 to 1989 VW Puma
1971 to 1979 Beetle
1970 to 1974 Karmann Gha VW 1600 engine was also big in motorsport and off-road. Sport dune buggies and sand rails are most commonly used.
Can you put 91 in VW Golf?
Recent Motor Disputes Tribunal case focused on a 2010 VW Golf that was run on 91 – but required 95. The answer is no. While long-term use of lower-grade fuel can have catastrophic consequences, a one-off or even occasional top-up won’t do any damage.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
Never the Damage Gasoline Prices Can Do to Your Bank Account: A recent case made before the Motor Disputes Tribunal highlighted the engine damage that can be caused by putting the wrong grade of fuel in your car.
A buyer who bought a 2010 Volkswagen Golf returned it to the dealer after a year when it developed engine problems. The court ruled that the damage was caused by the owner’s consistently running the vehicle on 91-octane fuel, when in fact 95 was required.
It also ruled that it is the owner’s responsibility to know what type of fuel a vehicle requires.
When 91 is used in cars that require higher octane fuel, there is a risk of pre-ignition or “knock”. Knock occurs when the gasoline burns early and pushes against a piston while still moving up during the compression stroke.
CONTINUE READING:
* Driver put wrong gas in his car, loses compensation bid
* Invercargill Z Station tank error
* Silly Car Question #10: How do I refuel my car?
In this case, that pre-detonation eventually ruptured one of the piston rings – a major and expensive repair.
Fill with 91 instead of 95
ALDEN WILLIAMS/STUFF It is your responsibility to know what octane rating your car requires: check the fuel filler flap or the manual.
Still nervous? The first takeaway from this is that you really should know what type of fuel your car needs. The minimum octane requirement is usually printed on the inside of the fuel filler flap, especially if it’s a model that needs the heavier stuff.
But accidents happen. Mistakes can be made. If you accidentally fill up with 91 when your car needs 95 or more, is it time to panic and drain the tank to avoid damage?
ROB MAETZIG/Stuff The Motor Disputes Tribunal’s most recent case focused on a 2010 VW Golf that was driven at 91 – but needed 95.
The answer is no. While long-term use of inferior fuel can be disastrous, a one-time or even occasional topping-up won’t hurt.
Although you may notice a drop in performance and an increase in fuel economy, especially in a modern car that has sensors and computer controls that automatically adjust the timing to compensate for your small fill error.
Of course, it also works the other way around. Filling your 91 car with 95 or 98 is no problem.
In fact, many people choose it because, in theory, the stronger fuel burns more efficiently and can improve consumption overall, giving you more range from a full tank.
There is of course a bit of technical mathematics involved, because the improved efficiency has to be compensated for by the additional costs per liter. But feel free to try it out.
Fill up with petrol instead of diesel
MATTHEW TSO/STUFF Gasoline grades are easily confused. And a few mistakes won’t hurt.
It’s easy to get the wrong grade of gas, but unless you’re a repeat offender (and repeat offenders), it’s usually not a serious problem.
Confusing between petrol and diesel is much more difficult, but also a much more immediate problem.
As soon as gasoline enters the tank of your diesel car, you must act. It doesn’t matter if you didn’t start the car. So not.
Gasoline does not have the lubricating properties required of a diesel engine and can also act as a solvent, potentially causing damage to the pump, injectors and other parts of the fuel system.
Because diesel engines run at very high compression, even a small amount of gasoline in the system can cause major damage.
So if you ever refill the wrong thing, talk to the gas station staff right away. They can put you in touch with a mobile service that can empty your tank.
Whether more is needed depends on the car and whether you dare. Given that a small amount of gasoline can cause a lot of damage, it’s worth asking a mechanic or technician for advice on whether it’s advisable to clean the tank more thoroughly and change the filters.
That sounds like a lot of work and expense and there is some debate about how high the risk is when the tank has been emptied thoroughly. But it’s food for thought, especially if you have a newer vehicle that’s more prone to contamination.
Or diesel instead of petrol
Delivered diesel in a tank of petrol is all about relative volume.
Putting diesel in your gas tank isn’t as bad as the other way around, but you still shouldn’t start the car.
If it was just a few squirts before you noticed the mistake, you might as well just fill up with gas and take the risk. Of course, if you have filled to the end, you must empty the tank. However, no further work should be required.
As I said, it’s your risk. The big danger of diesel in a petrol engine is a reduced octane rating. Ten percent diesel in a gas tank lowers the octane rating by five points, which is pretty serious.
It’s like the difference between ’95 and ’91 gasoline. Which brings us right back to where we started.
What cars require premium gas?
Luxury cars may require premium gas if they have a high performance or turbocharged engine. Even if you’re not buying a luxury car, more luxurious trim levels for a car may offer engine options that require premium gas.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
Quote and save today! Close
What is Premium Gasoline and Octane Rating? Premium petrol has a higher octane rating than regular petrol. This rating relates to how difficult it is for the gas to experience detonation, a phenomenon that causes fuel to burn at the wrong part of the engine cycle. In addition to wasting energy, a detonation can damage vital engine parts. This problem, often referred to as engine knock due to the noise coming from the engine, was more severe in the past. Modern vehicles have onboard computers to regulate the ignition cycle to accommodate lower octane gasoline. If your car’s engine requires premium petrol, you can still cause damage over the long term if you fill up regularly.
Which Cars Need Premium Gasoline? If your car requires premium fuel to run safely, this will be stated on the inside of the fuel filler flap and in the car’s handbook. Cars that require premium petrol will usually list the minimum octane rating required, which can be important when you have multiple premium options to choose from. Some cars that require Premium only require 91 octane, others may require 93 octane. If the owner’s manual states that premium petrol is recommended, it is generally safe to run the vehicle on regular petrol. However, you may not achieve the performance and fuel economy stated in the vehicle specifications. In most cases the difference in performance is small and something you might not notice in normal driving. If the car is rated for regular gas – or doesn’t specifically say the car needs premium gas – go for regular gas. There’s no benefit in putting premium gasoline in a car that doesn’t need it. Cars that require premium petrol usually state the minimum octane rating required.
Do turbo cars need super petrol? Not all turbocharged cars require premium fuel, but it’s a more common requirement with turbos than other types of engines, thanks to the way these engines work. The name turbo comes from the turbine that these engines use to inject more air into the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. This produces higher power density and improved fuel efficiency, making it a popular design for manufacturers who need to meet emission standards without compromising performance. Supercharged engines are becoming more common in modern car production for one simple reason: they deliver more power without sacrificing fuel economy. However, a supercharged engine does not necessarily mean a fast or powerful engine. For example, diesel cars with diesel engines, which are used more often for transporting large loads than for performance driving, often use turbos. The trade-off is that turbocharged engines have a higher compression ratio than non-turbocharged engines. That means they’re more prone to detonation and more likely to need premium fuel.
Does the GTI require premium fuel?
Premium-grade gas is recommended (and necessary to achieve VW’s official horsepower and torque figures), but the engine will also run on regular.
What does a complete 1600 VW engine weigh?
No car can match the GTI’s compelling blend of everyday usability, compelling performance and all-encompassing sophistication.
BUT…
Prices are a bit steep for a compact, and the automated manual transmission’s response can be sluggish in stop-and-go driving.
WORTHLESS:
The GTI offers an adaptive damping system – a rare feature in sporty cars in its price range. It is included in the Autobahn option group for SE models.
WHAT IS IT?
The Golf GTI is Volkswagen’s long-standing “hot hatch” performance compact car. It’s essentially a hopped-up version of the mainstream VW Golf hatchback. The GTI is offered as a 4-door hatchback in S or SE trim levels. The sole engine is a 2.0-liter turbocharged four-cylinder that produces 228 hp and can be mated to either a 6-speed manual or a 7-speed automated manual transmission that includes steering wheel paddles for manual shifting. Front collision warning and mitigation and a blind spot monitor with rear cross-traffic alert are standard features. The Autobahn Pack adds features like front and rear parking assist, automatic high beam control and lane departure warning.
WHAT’S NEW?
The Golf GTI model range will be streamlined for 2020; The limited Rabbit Edition is discontinued, and the earlier Autobahn model is reconfigured as a $4300 option package on the SE trim level. All GTIs get VW’s next-generation Car-Net infotainment system and in-car Wi-Fi capability as standard.
FUEL SAVING
EPA fuel economy estimates are 24 mpg city/32 mpg highway with the manual transmission and 25/31 with the automated manual. Premium petrol is recommended (and necessary to achieve official VW horsepower and torque ratings), but the engine will run normally.
VALUE IN CLASS
The Golf GTI has long been the benchmark among sporty compact cars; It offers near-premium, compact build quality and serious appeal for driving enthusiasts. Also, the hatchback body offers passenger comfort and cargo versatility that few sporty cars can match. Base prices are a bit steep compared to the sporty versions of other mainstream brand compacts, but you get what you pay for. The GTI is simply one of the most well-rounded, practical performance vehicles money can buy.
What type of gas octane do you run in your vw engine
See some more details on the topic best fuel for air cooled vw here:
1958-1967 – View topic – Best fuel for an air cooled engine
We’ve had ethanol in our fuel since the 1980s. No issues in our vehicles. Brian ’69 Dune Buggy · ’69 Beetle Convertible · ’70 Beetle …
Source: www.thesamba.com
Date Published: 7/20/2022
View: 2458
modern fuel in a classic VW – Scenic City Volks Folks
100% gas is obviously best for ANY car, not just old VWs. The ethanol will attack and destroy all of the rubber fuel lines and carb seals. It is …
Source: www.volksfolks.org
Date Published: 8/19/2022
View: 159
Which Octane for my Beetle? – Google Groups
octane 87, for example. So using 87 is perfectly fine, in a stock VW engine, with stock compression. Problem? Reformulated gasoline. This means there is oxygen, …
Source: groups.google.com
Date Published: 2/26/2022
View: 1374
Octane Ratings – Type2.com
Volkswagen recommended 91 RON octane gasoline for use with their air-cooled engines. However, here is where the confusion sets in: The RON method of octane …
Source: www.type2.com
Date Published: 4/25/2021
View: 1515
Octane Rating and VW Engines
Air-cooled VW engines therefore use a slightly lower compression ratio than water cooled cars using the same octane rated gasoline. The octane number came about …
Source: www.vw-resource.com
Date Published: 1/12/2021
View: 9072
Unleaded or leaded | VW Vortex – Volkswagen Forum
You can safely go with unleaded gas. VW made a statement many years ago, saying that all VW engines since 1947 is good to run on unleaded.
Source: www.vwvortex.com
Date Published: 10/19/2021
View: 2448
What Octane for our Buses/VW’s? – Itinerant Air-Cooled
Reason being if the engine is out of tune a bit and may not run as smooth, the higher octane gas is setup so that it won’t pre-ignite until it …
Source: www.itinerant-air-cooled.com
Date Published: 1/8/2021
View: 2667
Premium fuel recommended? | VW Beetle Forum
I was just looking at the brochure for the ’06 N.B. and noticed under “fuel requirements” it says “premium fuel recommended.
Source: www.newbeetle.org
Date Published: 8/23/2022
View: 3873
What fuel? – Aircooled VW South Africa
The 1975 1600s beetle was my mom’s and she has run it on LRP since leaded fuel was removed from the market. My son inadvertently chucked …
Source: www.aircooledvwsa.co.za
Date Published: 4/8/2022
View: 5506
Best fuel for an air cooled engine
author message
Robs66vw
Joined: August 26, 2017
Posts: 18
Location: Dothan, AL
Samba Member Joined: August 26, 2017 Posts: 18 Location: Dothan, AL
Posted: Sun October 22, 2017 00:53 Post subject: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine Would love to hear what fuel other VW owners are using in their cars. I used the pure 87 degree non-ethynol gas in mine and I was wondering if this is really necessary since it costs about 0.30 cents more per gallon. I mean if the additives that are put in some fuels damage the carburetor or something else I’d rather pay the extra money but if not then I’d rather use the cheaper gasoline. Or maybe alternate every other tank with the cheap gasoline. Ok Samba makes your thoughts heard
Firing order1432
Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12104
Samba MemberJoined: June 13, 2004Posts: 12104
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 3:24 am Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air cooled engine
No doubt you’ll hear other opinions on how they’ve been using ethanol gas for years, no problem. Dig a little further and they will also say they live in an area where they have no choice, it’s ethanol or nothing, entire areas of the country with no access to real gasoline. There are dozens of gasoline formulations to meet EPA requirements, depending on location and time of year, but if you’re old enough to remember the mid-’70s when they removed lead from gasoline, it also had a negative impact older cars. Which you won’t hear, but a crucial factor in many homeowner decisions is that they make most of their decisions based on price alone. Realize where you are and by that I mean get answers from people who have no training in mechanical things like sheep they will use whatever is available at the cheapest price maybe they will drag you down like a drowning man . Look around this forum, you have post after post about quality issues. But dig deeper and they shopped in just for the price. A guy could see this coming over 40 years ago, even wrote a book, but that’s all forgotten now.
Be it ignorance or misunderstanding, they don’t pay extra for failed gasoline. In the end it’s up to you, no matter what is said here. Listen to your car, it will tell you when it’s running correctly. Given the choice, paying the small premium for true 100% gasoline, I get slightly better fuel economy and it’s not as corrosive to fuel system components. My car is mainly driven on weekends, which puts me at greater risk of phase separation, which I think is also another important reason. I don’t think it’s a problem at concentrations of 10% or less, but since the mix varies somewhat, I’ve seen ethanol cause problems in air-cooled engines, overheating and idle issues. No doubt you will hear other opinions on how they’ have been using ethanol gas for years with no problem. Dig a little further and they will also say they live in an area where they have no choice, it’s ethanol or nothing, entire areas of the country with no access to real gasoline. There are dozens of gasoline formulations to meet EPA requirements, depending on location and time of year, but if you’re old enough to remember the mid-’70s when they removed lead from gasoline, it also had a negative impact older cars. Which you won’t hear, but a crucial factor in many homeowner decisions is that they make most of their decisions based on price alone. Realize where you are and by that I mean get answers from people who have no training in mechanical things like sheep they will use whatever is available at the cheapest price maybe they will drag you down like a drowning man . Look around this forum, you have post after post about quality issues. But dig deeper and they shopped in just for the price. A guy could see this coming over 40 years ago, even wrote a book, but that’s all forgotten now. Be it ignorance or misunderstanding, they don’t pay extra for fancy gas. In the end it’s up to you, no matter what is said here. Listen to your car, it will tell you when it’s running correctly.
Last edited by Zünd Folge1432 on Sun 22.10.2017 04:13; processed a total of 3 times
parker007
Joined: December 21, 2011
Posts: 132
Location: California
Samba Member Joined: December 21, 2011 Posts: 132 Location: California
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 4:25 am Post subject: Re: The best fuel for an air cooled engine is alcohol so we all know it used to absorb water in 50 engines and every time I use it, after sitting for a few months I need to clean the carburetor, if it is used every day no one notices the water problem. If storing for the winter, do not use ethanol even if stabilizer has been added. My problem is that in CA everything is there. I’ve recently started using race fuel with no ethanol and no problems. The cost outweighs when I work on each chainsaw, weed eater or motorcycle before I can use it.
abskate
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 19252
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
Samba MemberJoined: October 5, 2014Posts: 19252Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 4:47 AM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine If you’re storing over the winter, drain your fuel tanks and the problem is solved. Navy guys figured this out decades ago, auto guys seem to be slow to follow.
We run ethanol gas all over the Northeast with no problems, most of the babble about phase separation and water content is wrong.
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anthracitub
Joined: June 20, 2007
Posts: 3213
Location: Michigan
Samba Member Joined: June 20, 2007 Posts: 3213 Location: Michigan
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 4:52 AM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air cooled engine I run the cheapest dirt that comes out of the pumps and use the German braided fuel line…no problems.
parker007
Joined: December 21, 2011
Posts: 132
Location: California
Samba Member Joined: December 21, 2011 Posts: 132 Location: California
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 5:28am Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine Abscate wrote: If you’re storing over the winter, drain your fuel tanks and the problem is solved. Navy guys figured this out decades ago, auto guys seem to be slow to follow.
We run ethanol gas all over the Northeast with no problems, most of the babble about phase separation and water content is wrong. Not all engines have drainable fuel tanks, and our California fuel goes bad in a month or two. This is easy to see if you look at the color. Clear, good, shade of brown, bad condition and constantly changing. Just saying ethanol eats aluminum when mixed with water!
wcfvw69
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13117
Location: Arizona
Samba Purist Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13117 Location: Arizona
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 5:48 AM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine anthracitedub wrote: I drive the cheapest dirt that comes out of the pumps and use the German braided fuel line…none problems.
I also. I keep hearing about the corrosive effects of alcohol on rubber fuel parts, but have never seen any damage from it on three different VWs in the last 20 years.
I’ve also read many articles on running regular versus premium gasoline in our stock compression engines. All of this said that there wasn’t much difference between the two and you were wasting your $ going premium.
_________________
[email protected]Decades of experience in the restoration of VW and VW parts.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche Dealers or I can restore yours**
1970 Westfalia bus
1969 convertible Beetle
1967 Standard Bug Me too. I keep hearing about the corrosive effects of alcohol on rubber fuel parts, but have never seen damage on three different VWs in the last 20 years. I’ve also read a lot of articles about how to use regular versus premium gasoline in our stock compression engines. All of this said that there wasn’t much difference between the two and you wasted your $ driving premium to sell your****restored German Pierburg fuel pumps or I can sell your****restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours ****Restored Porsche distributor or I can restore yours**1970 Westfalia Bus1969 Cabriolet Bug1967 Standard Insect
bluebus86
Joined: 09/02/2010
Posts: 11075
LockedJoined: September 02, 2010Posts: 11075
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 5:54 AM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air cooled engine
Did I mention that this stuff costs more, reduces fuel consumption, is corrosive and actually pollutes more when production is factored in (cultivating crops with tractors, fertilizers, harvesting fermentation, distillation, all of which consume energy, petroleum consumption.) These fuels They have also caused food prices to rise as farmland is converted from growing food to fuel. If you have a high performance engine, your 91 Octane Premium engine is the highest octane rating available.
Of course, the farm lobby loves it and spends a lot of money to trick some of our rulers into forcing this on us. Hell, the fuel pumps even have warning labels stating this stuff can damage older cars, cause leaks, and cause a fire hazard.
I have no choice in the matter, just as I can no longer buy a 100 watt light bulb locally. real gas was taken away from me.
So yes, my experience is that this gasoline is harmful, but that’s about all I can’t do about myself. The leaders don’t care, as long as the lobbyists pay them, they’re happy.
Older car owners are an oppressed minority
_________________
Help prevent VW engine fires see this link…
Stop putting dirt in your oil when you adjust valves… I have no choice, California forced me to use the more expensive fuel with poor mileage and component destruction. No choice. Despite using anti-roll bars I had to rebuild my carburetor and replace my fuel pump after winter storage, ran fine when parked, one winter killed them. Rust in the float chamber, carbleak, pump leaking. The unlined hose got soggy. The same applies to my lawn mower, although I use stabilizer. Did I mention that this stuff costs more, reduces fuel consumption, is caustic and actually pollutes more when production is factored in (growing crops with tractors, fertilizers, harvesting fermentation, distillation all entailing energy consumption, petroleum consumption. ) These fuels have also caused food prices to rise as farmland is converted from food to fuel. If you have a high performance engine, 91 Octane Premium is the highest octane rating available. Of course, the farm lobby loves it and spends a lot of money to trick some of our rulers into forcing this on us. Hell, the fuel pumps even have warning labels stating this stuff can damage older cars, cause leaks, and cause a fire hazard. I have no choice in the matter, just as I can no longer buy a 100 watt light bulb locally. Real gas was taken away from me. So yes, my experience is that this gasoline is harmful, but that’s about all I can’t do about myself. The leaders don’t care, as long as the lobbyists pay them, they’re happy. Older car owners are an oppressed minority_________________ Help prevent VW engine fires see this link…..on adjusting valves… https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php? t=683022
Last edited by bluebus86 on Sun 22.10.2017 09:12; edited a total of 1 time
Firing order1432
Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12104
Samba MemberJoined: June 13, 2004Posts: 12104
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:14 am in Mechanics, although they mean well. There are many shade tree mechanics here parroting what they’ve heard. Not all mind you, there are a few licensed mechanics but we are in the minority. Those who provide anecdotal evidence of no problem should be aware that gasoline is formulated differently and works in the areas where no choice is offered. There are at least 16 different formulations in the Midwest alone. Instead of believing what you see here, research many scientific papers on the subject. Always do your due diligence. Good luck and happy driving. The topic of phase separation is reason enough for me to google it. Pay attention to where the alcohol is added to the mix and if it’s not a problem why refiners don’t. Do your homework again, consult sources. I know that critical thinking is neither popular nor taught, but it is needed here.
Q dog
Joined: April 05, 2010
Posts: 8282
Location: Sunset, Louisiana
Samba Member Joined: April 5, 2010 Posts: 8282 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:25 am Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine
Although I’m not a professional mechanic… I’m a person who has driven, owned and serviced these cars since the late 70’s. I did this out of necessity as those cars were just cars back then… everyday drivers for me.
I do all my own maintenance, I build my engines. My later engines had better longevity than the early ones. I think I’ve learned from my mistakes and try to pass this information on to others. And I’ve also learned that in most cases there is more than one approach and more than one answer to a question.
How many people actually have water problems in the gas? And how many are actually just parroting a few potential problems they read about in Hot Rod Magazine?
_________________
brian
’69 dune buggy
’69 Beetle convertible
’70 Beetle Zünd, the extensive editing and addition to your first post after my answer is a bit disingenuous to those who come afterward and are just looking at the order of answers. You should have just replied after my post instead of trying to make it seem like you’re predicting future replies. I did this out of necessity as these cars were just cars back then… daily drivers for me. I do all my own maintenance, I build my engines. My later engines had better longevity than the early ones. I think I’ve learned from my mistakes and try to pass this information on to others. And I’ve also learned that, in most cases, there is more than one way to do things and more than one answer to a question. How many people actually have water problems in the gas? And how many are actually just parroting a couple of potential problems they read about in Hot Rod Magazine?_________________ Brian
parker007
Joined: December 21, 2011
Posts: 132
Location: California
Samba Member Joined: December 21, 2011 Posts: 132 Location: California
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:35 am Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine
Q Dog
Joined: April 05, 2010
Posts: 8282
Location: Sunset, Louisiana
Samba Member Joined: April 5, 2010 Posts: 8282 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 7:45 AM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air cooled engine parker007 wrote: …that’s 1 month on Ethonol fuel in our humid climate on a 1 year old generator
Nice, but the OP isn’t powering a generator. I would show you the inside of my carburetor in a humid climate using ethanol fuel, but I haven’t taken it off since I rebuilt it about 4 years ago. Going well. That will have to do.
Do whatever works for you.
_________________
brian
’69 dune buggy
’69 Beetle convertible
’70 Beetle Nice, but the OP doesn’t drive a generator. I would show you the inside of my carburetor in a humid climate running ethanol fuel, but I haven’t taken it off since I rebuilt it about 4 years ago. Going well. It must be enough. Do whatever works for you. _________________Brian
mr mike
Joined: January 30, 2015
Posts: 380
Location: Shoreline, WA
Samba Member Joined: January 30, 2015 Posts: 380 Location: Shoreline, WA
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:54 am Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine
Hemmings Motor News explains it nicely:
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/11/14/tech-101-…ctor-cars/
Pure Gas lists ethanol-free stations. In the US and Canada:
https://www.pure-gas.org/
Bottom up!
mike
_________________
1964 Sedan 6 Volt I drive pure petrol, no ethanol. In the past I have run ethanol gasoline, E10, and the biggest difference I saw was a decrease in miles per gallon. I switched to straight gasoline after reading about the negative effects of ethanol on rubber fuel lines, rubber gaskets, and water condensation in the fuel tank and carburetor body. Hemmings Motor News explains it nicely: Pure Gas lists ethanol-free gas stations. In the US and Canada: Cheers! Mike_________________1964 sedan 6 volts
bluebus86
Joined: 09/02/2010
Posts: 11075
LockedJoined: September 02, 2010Posts: 11075
Posted: Sun October 22, 2017 9:10 AM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine Q-Dog wrote: Zund, Editing and adding copious amounts to your first post after my reply is a bit disingenuous for those who come along afterwards and just look at the order of the answers. You should have just replied after my post instead of trying to make it seem like you’re predicting future replies.
Although I’m not a professional mechanic… I’m a person who has driven, owned and serviced these cars since the late 70’s. I did this out of necessity as those cars were just cars back then… everyday drivers for me.
I do all my own maintenance, I build my engines. My later engines had better longevity than the early ones. I think I’ve learned from my mistakes and try to pass this information on to others. And I’ve also learned that in most cases there is more than one approach and more than one answer to a question.
How many people actually have water problems in the gas? And how many are actually just parroting a few potential problems they read about in Hot Rod Magazine?
Having firsthand experience with the destructive nature of gasoline being forced upon my cars and gas powered devices, it’s a real problem. I have a degree in engineering and have worked in the field of chemistry, among other things. As a hobby mechanic, I do almost all of my work myself, currently have a dozen collectible cars, and also work on classic cars owned by friends and family. I have no choice in the matter, this crap is forced upon me and I hate it. I hate the sobs it forced me to, I despise anyone who tries to downplay the real problems people are having with it, especially when those minimizers of real problems don’t live in the same area as me and therefore have no experience with the fuels have that I have had to endure. You’re parroting nonsense, to use your choice of words. I rarely read Hot Rod Magazine. But I’ve subscribed to Hot VWs for about 4 decades.
I draw a line when rulers fuck my cars. to hell with them.
good day
_________________
Help prevent VW engine fires see this link…
Stop putting dirt in your oil when adjusting valves… Having first hand experience with the destructive nature of gasoline being forced on my cars and gas powered equipment, it’s a real problem. I have a degree in engineering and have worked in the field of chemistry, among other things. As a hobby mechanic, I do almost all of my work myself, currently have a dozen collectible cars, and also work on classic cars owned by friends and family. I have no choice in the matter, this crap is forced upon me and I hate it. I hate the sobs it forced me to, I despise anyone who tries to downplay the real problems people are having with it, especially when those minimizers of real problems don’t live in the same area as me and therefore have no experience with the fuels have that I have had to endure. You’re parroting nonsense, to use your choice of words. I rarely read Hot Rod Magazine. But I’ve subscribed to Hot VWs for about 4 decades. I draw a line when rulers fuck with my cars. Screw them in. Hello_________________Help prevent VW engine fires, see this link….. Engine Safety Wire Information Stop putting dirt in your oil when you adjust valves… https://www.thesamba .com/vw/forum/viewtopic. php?t=683022
Last edited by bluebus86 on Sunday October 22, 2017 9:46 am; processed a total of 4 times
60ragtop
Joined: March 13, 2006
Posts: 7799
Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
Bonneville Belt Bitch Joined: March 13, 2006 Posts: 7799 Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 09:12 Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine
There is no definite answer because someone does not always experience negative effects from this and that.
I hit the gas hard when I can and notice a difference in my Beetles’ performance.
and how they behave when stored with manure gas.
_________________
rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
1987 ASA certified
Certified Hunter Master Alignment Technician 1986
This thread is destined to be like the long-winded oil thread arguments. There is no definite answer because someone always has no ill effects from this and that they do when stored with manure gas._________________RickCertified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977ASA Certified in 1987Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986 tasb wrote: I’ve also restored a large number, but I don’t honk quite as loud.
sb001 wrote: maybe he just snapped because his car was vacuuming
wcfvw69
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13117
Location: Arizona
Samba Purist Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13117 Location: Arizona
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 12:40 PM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine
Some people experience nightmares with ethanol in their fuel, while others like me don’t. I’d prefer to drive pure petrol like everyone else, but it’s not really available here.
Advice provided on a forum should be filtered and then people should do further research and then make the best decision for them.
_________________
[email protected]Decades of experience in the restoration of VW and VW parts.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche Dealers or I can restore yours**
1970 Westfalia bus
1969 convertible Beetle
1967 Standard Bug I haven’t really seen much parroting in this thread. It is a forum where people share their experiences on any topic discussed. Some people experience nightmares with ethanol in their fuel, while others like me don’t. I’d prefer to drive pure petrol like everyone else, but it’s not really available here. Advice given on a forum should be filtered and then people should do further research and then make the best decision for them. _________________ Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience. The Samba member since 2004. **Restored Bosch German dealerships for sale or I can restore yours****Restored Pierburg German fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours****Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours ****Restored Porsche Dealer or I will restore your**1970 Westfalia Bus1969 Cabrio Bug1967 Standard Bug
Help
Joined: January 19, 2009
Posts: 3433
Location: Vulcania
Samba MemberJoined: January 19, 2009Posts: 3433Location: Vulcania
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 1:39 PM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine bluebus86 wrote: Q-Dog wrote: Zund, extensive editing and adding to your first post after my reply is a bit disingenuous the ones that come afterward and just look at the order of the answers. You should have just replied after my post instead of trying to make it seem like you’re predicting future replies.
Although I’m not a professional mechanic… I’m a person who has driven, owned and serviced these cars since the late 70’s. I did this out of necessity as those cars were just cars back then… everyday drivers for me.
I do all my own maintenance, I build my engines. My later engines had better longevity than the early ones. I think I’ve learned from my mistakes and try to pass this information on to others. And I’ve also learned that in most cases there is more than one approach and more than one answer to a question.
How many people actually have water problems in the gas? And how many are actually just parroting a few potential problems they read about in Hot Rod Magazine?
Having firsthand experience with the destructive nature of gasoline being forced upon my cars and gas powered devices, it’s a real problem. I have a degree in engineering and have worked in the field of chemistry, among other things. As a hobby mechanic, I do almost all of my work myself, currently have a dozen collectible cars, and also work on classic cars owned by friends and family. I have no choice in the matter, this crap is forced upon me and I hate it. I hate the sobs it forced me to, I despise anyone who tries to downplay the real problems people are having with it, especially when those minimizers of real problems don’t live in the same area as me and therefore have no experience with the fuels have that I have had to endure. You’re parroting nonsense, to use your choice of words. I rarely read Hot Rod Magazine. But I’ve subscribed to Hot VWs for about 4 decades.
I draw a line when rulers fuck my cars. to hell with them.
good day
I would say you have two choices. No. 1, you could leave the Socialist Republic of Ca. (that wants to leave good old USA anyway) or #2, you could become an outlaw and buy 100LL from your local airport.
bluebus86
Joined: 09/02/2010
Posts: 11075
LockedJoined: September 02, 2010Posts: 11075
Posted: Sun Oct 22 2017 1:53 PM Post subject: Re: Best fuel for an air-cooled engine A little disingenuous to those who come after the fact and only look at the order of answers. You should have just replied after my post instead of trying to make it seem like you’re predicting future replies.
Although I’m not a professional mechanic… I’m a person who has driven, owned and serviced these cars since the late 70’s. I did this out of necessity as those cars were just cars back then… everyday drivers for me.
I do all my own maintenance, I build my engines. My later engines had better longevity than the early ones. I think I’ve learned from my mistakes and try to pass this information on to others. And I’ve also learned that in most cases there is more than one approach and more than one answer to a question.
How many people actually have water problems in the gas? And how many are actually just parroting a few potential problems they read about in Hot Rod Magazine?
Ich habe Erfahrung aus erster Hand mit der zerstörerischen Natur des Benzins, das meinen Autos und Gasantriebsgeräten aufgezwungen wird, es ist ein echtes Problem. Ich bin Diplom-Ingenieur, habe unter anderem im Bereich Chemie gearbeitet. Als Hobbymechaniker mache ich fast alle meine Arbeiten selbst, habe derzeit ein Dutzend Sammlerautos und arbeite auch an klassischen Autos von Freunden und Verwandten. Ich habe keine Wahl in der Sache, dieser Mist wird mir aufgezwungen und ich hasse es. Ich hasse das Schluchzen, das es mir aufgezwungen hat, ich verachte jeden, der versucht, die wirklichen Probleme, die die Leute damit haben, herunterzuspielen, besonders wenn diese Minimierer echter Probleme nicht in derselben Gegend wie ich leben und daher keine Erfahrung mit den Kraftstoffen haben, die ich habe aushalten müssen. Sie plappern Unsinn nach, um Ihre Wortwahl zu verwenden. Ich lese selten das Hot Rod Magazin. Aber ich habe seit ungefähr 4 Jahrzehnten Hot VWs abonniert.
Ich ziehe eine Grenze, wenn Herrscher mit meinen Autos vögeln. zum Teufel mit ihnen.
good day
Ich würde sagen, du hast zwei Möglichkeiten. Nr. 1, Sie könnten die Sozialistische Republik Ca verlassen. (Das will sowieso die guten alten USA verlassen) oder #2, Sie könnten ein Outlaw werden und 100LL von Ihrem lokalen Flughafen kaufen.
Beides ist für mich keine praktikable Option. Die meisten Kalifornier schimpfen, wenn sie von Sezession sprechen, trotz gegenteiliger Gerüchte.
_________________
Helfen Sie mit, VW-Motorbrände zu verhindern, siehe diesen Link…..
Hören Sie auf, Schmutz in Ihr Öl einzubringen, wenn Sie Ventile einstellen … Beides ist für mich keine praktikable Option. Die meisten Kalifornier grummeln, wenn sie von Sezession sprechen, trotz gegenteiliger Gerüchte. _________________Helfen Sie dabei, VW-Motorbrände zu verhindern, siehe diesen Link….. .com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022
Help
Beigetreten: 19. Januar 2009
Beiträge: 3433
Ort: Vulkania
Samba-MitgliedBeitritt: 19. Januar 2009Beiträge: 3433Ort: Vulcania
Gepostet: Sonntag, 22. Oktober 2017, 14:20 Uhr Betreff des Beitrags: Re: Bester Kraftstoff für einen luftgekühlten Motor bluebus86 schrieb: Helfen schrieb: bluebus86 schrieb: Q-Dog schrieb: Zünd, bearbeite und ergänze ausführlich deinen ersten Beitrag nach meiner Antwort ist ein bisschen unaufrichtig für diejenigen, die nachträglich kommen und nur auf die Reihenfolge der Antworten schauen. Du hättest einfach nach meinem Beitrag antworten sollen, anstatt zu versuchen, es so aussehen zu lassen, als würdest du zukünftige Antworten vorhersagen.
Obwohl ich kein professioneller Mechaniker bin … Ich bin eine Person, die diese Autos seit Ende der 70er Jahre gefahren, besessen und gewartet hat. Ich habe das aus der Not heraus gemacht, da diese Autos damals einfach Autos waren … Alltagsfahrer für mich.
Ich mache alle meine eigenen Wartungsarbeiten, ich baue meine Motoren. Meine späteren Motoren hatten eine bessere Langlebigkeit als die frühen. Ich denke, ich habe aus meinen Fehlern gelernt und versuche, diese Informationen an andere weiterzugeben. Und ich habe auch gelernt, dass es in den meisten Fällen mehr als eine Vorgehensweise und mehr als nur eine Antwort auf Fragen gibt.
Wie viele Leute haben tatsächlich Wasserprobleme im Gas? Und wie viele plappern tatsächlich nur ein paar potenzielle Probleme nach, die sie im Hot Rod-Magazin gelesen haben?
Ich habe Erfahrung aus erster Hand mit der zerstörerischen Natur des Benzins, das meinen Autos und Gasantriebsgeräten aufgezwungen wird, es ist ein echtes Problem. Ich bin Diplom-Ingenieur, habe unter anderem im Bereich Chemie gearbeitet. Als Hobbymechaniker mache ich fast alle meine Arbeiten selbst, habe derzeit ein Dutzend Sammlerautos und arbeite auch an klassischen Autos von Freunden und Verwandten. Ich habe keine Wahl in der Sache, dieser Mist wird mir aufgezwungen und ich hasse es. Ich hasse das Schluchzen, das es mir aufgezwungen hat, ich verachte jeden, der versucht, die wirklichen Probleme, die die Leute damit haben, herunterzuspielen, besonders wenn diese Minimierer echter Probleme nicht in derselben Gegend wie ich leben und daher keine Erfahrung mit den Kraftstoffen haben, die ich habe aushalten müssen. Sie plappern Unsinn nach, um Ihre Wortwahl zu verwenden. Ich lese selten das Hot Rod Magazin. Aber ich habe seit etwa 4 Jahrzehnten Hot VWs abonniert.
Ich ziehe eine Grenze, wenn Herrscher mit meinen Autos vögeln. zum Teufel mit ihnen.
good day
Ich würde sagen, du hast zwei Möglichkeiten. Nr. 1, Sie könnten die Sozialistische Republik Ca verlassen. (Das will sowieso die guten alten USA verlassen) oder #2, Sie könnten ein Outlaw werden und 100LL von Ihrem lokalen Flughafen kaufen.
Beides ist für mich keine gangbare Option. Die meisten Kalifornier schimpfen, wenn sie von Sezession sprechen, trotz gegenteiliger Gerüchte.
Du wohnst in der Nähe eines Flughafens, oder?
Allein das Gerede über Sezession, hauptsächlich von Führern Ihres Staates, reicht aus, um mich zu beunruhigen. Those same people suddenly got quiet when they needed disaster relief form the Fed after those fires you just had.
BTY, My wife told me something yesterday after watching the news, apparently by next year Ca. will have gone over the one million mark of issuing Ca. drivers licenses to illegal aliens. I hear that many want to give them the right to vote. At this time Ca. is well over 365 billion in debt.
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CAlex
Joined: March 07, 2015
Posts: 100
Location: Orlando, FL
Samba MemberJoined: March 7, 2015Posts: 100Location: Orlando, Fl
Posted: Thursday Apr 23 2015 10:28 AM Post subject: Best Fuel What is the best type of gasoline to use for my 65 bug?
dieblake
Joined: May 27, 2014
Posts: 30
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Samba Member Joined: May 27, 2014 Posts: 30 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted: Thursday Apr 23, 2015 11:06 am Post subject: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/search.php?cx=partner-p…;sa=Search
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=470177
cheek
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 511
Samba MemberJoined: January 7, 2007Posts: 511
Posted: Thursday Apr 23, 2015 11:58 Post subject: I am using Sunoco 93. No problems. Using Premium may be overkill, but for the amount I drive, I want to get the best use out of the car.
David
_________________
1961 error
1965 error
1966 sunroof failure
1966 Westy
1976 914 2.0
1989 911 Carrera
1981 Diesel Rabbit pickup
1982 Diesel Vanagon
2014 Golf (last year German MFR for NA)
2019 Jetta Gli, 35th Anniversary Edition, 6-speed
ciphere
Joined: February 13, 2013
Posts: 410
Location: Houston
Samba Member Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 410 Location: Houston
Posted: Thursday April 23, 2015 12:53 PM Post subject: I use premium. any brand.
_________________
62 errors
70 mistakes
68 errors
70 Error vert
cylinder head
Joined: September 09, 2012
Posts: 674
Location: Southeast Oklahoma
Samba MemberJoined: September 9, 2012Posts: 674Location: SE Oklahoma
Posted: Thursday April 23, 2015 3:06 pm Post subject:
Try to get ethanol-free gas if you can. How to find it:
http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=FL
_________________
1963 Beetle
1966 Beetle 1300
1970 Karmann Ghia coupe
1971 Super Beetle
1974 thing
“A lot of people never use their initiative because nobody told them to.” This second link above from theblake leads to a thorough discussion on the subject. Try to get ethanol-free gas if you can. How to find it:_________________1963 Beetle1966 Beetle 13001970 Karmann Ghia Coupé1971 Super Beetle1974 Thing”A lot of people never take their initiative because nobody told them.”
hittest
Joined: September 30, 2008
Posts: 10192
Location: Prime Meridian, ID
Samba MemberJoined: September 30, 2008Posts: 10192Location: Prime Meridian, ID
Posted: Thursday Apr 23, 2015 5:30 PM Post subject: Ethanol Free.
_________________
EverettB wrote:
I wonder what the nut looks like.
’62 L390 151, ’62 L469 117, ’63 L380 113, ’64 L87 311, ’65 L512 265, ’65 L31 SO-42, ’66 L360 251, ’68 L30k 141, ’71 L12 113, ’74 ORG 181
FU#5
67Jason
Joined: August 28, 2005
Posts: 4741
Location: behind my hind feet – Pittsburg CA
Samba Member Joined: August 28, 2005 Posts: 4741 Location: behind my hind feet – Pittsburg CA
Posted: Thursday April 23, 2015 11:24 PM Post subject:
If it rings and you know everything is timed correctly (which means timing, valves, and carburetor settings have been tripled), try increasing the octane. but really, assuming your engine isn’t running on a super high compression ratio, it should be perfectly happy running on “low quality” 87 octane.
_________________
67 errors x3
67 gia
64 error, my 2180 runs fine on 87, when I think about it, so did the old 1600 single port I had in it… same goes for the 1600 single port on my bus. If it pings and you know everything is fine tune (meaning the timing, valves and carb settings have been tripled) and then try increasing the octane. but really assuming your engine isn’t running at a super high compression ratio it should be perfectly happy running “low” 87 octane._________________67 error x367 ghia64 error
Onetuza
Joined: June 20, 2012
Posts: 579
Location: Sebastian, FL
Samba Member Joined: June 20, 2012 Posts: 579 Location: Sebastian, FL
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:16am Post subject: Ethanol Free 90 Octane
_________________
When I die, I want to go to sleep peacefully, like my grandfather. . . .
Don’t yell like the other passengers in his car!
CAlex
Joined: March 07, 2015
Posts: 100
Location: Orlando, FL
Samba MemberJoined: March 7, 2015Posts: 100Location: Orlando, Fl
Posted: Fri May 01 2015 00:30 Post subject: Thanks everyone for all the good feedback. I run my 65 on Premium but someone told me to start running it without ethanol, is that a preference or do I get better spark on non ethanol than premium?
screening bow
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
Samba MemberJoined: June 3, 2002Posts: 2162Location: Adelaide Australia
Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 00:43 AM Post subject: CAlex wrote: Thanks everyone for all the good feedback. I run my 65 on premium but someone told me to start running it without ethanol, is that a preference or do I get better spark on non ethanol than premium?
There are two main problems with modern fuels. And it has nothing to do with a “better spark”.
1. You need fuel with the right octane rating. For any low compression Bug engine you will need an octane rating of 87AKI in the US or 91RON in any other part of the world. Using a higher octane fuel will not harm the engine in any way, but is unnecessary unless you get some ringing/detonation.
2. Adding ethanol to any fuel makes carbureted cars lean. This is because ethanol contained CONSUMED oxygen, and this causes E10 (10% ethanol in gasoline) to have about 4% less “fuel” in the fuel. Modern cars with engine computers can adjust the mixture on the fly to deal with this, but a carburetor can’t adjust that – it doesn’t know the fuel content of the gasoline, it just keeps pouring the normal amount of fuel into the airstream and that’s how the engine runs lean unless you re-inject the carburetor.
Conclusion – your Beetle runs best with ethanol-free petrol of at least 87AKI/91RON.
For a full explanation of fuels for VW engines, you may find this article helpful.
www.vw-resource.com/octane.html
_________________
rob
Rob and Dave’s air-cooled VW sides
Repairs and maintenance for the do-it-yourselfer
http://www.vw-resource.com There are two main problems with modern fuels. And it has nothing to do with a “better spark”.1. You need fuel with the right octane rating. For any low compression Bug engine you will need an octane rating of 87AKI in the US or 91RON in any other part of the world. Using a higher octane fuel will not harm the engine in any way, but is unnecessary unless you get some ringing/knocking.2. Adding ethanol to any fuel makes carbureted cars lean. This is because ethanol contained CONSUMED oxygen, and this causes E10 (10% ethanol in gasoline) to have about 4% less “fuel” in the fuel. Modern cars with engine computers can adjust the mixture on the fly to deal with this, but a carburetor can’t adjust that – it doesn’t know the fuel content of the gasoline, it just keeps pouring the normal amount of fuel into the airstream and that’s how the engine runs lean unless you re-inject the carburetor. Conclusion – your Beetle runs best on ethanol-free petrol with at least 87 AKI / 91 RON. For a full explanation of fuels for VW engines, you may find this article useful. _________________RobRob and Dave’s air-cooled VW side repairs and maintenance for the DIY enthusiast
CAlex
Joined: March 07, 2015
Posts: 100
Location: Orlando, FL
Samba MemberJoined: March 7, 2015Posts: 100Location: Orlando, Fl
Posted: Fri May 01 2015 11:30 AM Post subject: Thanks for the info…I still have about 1/2 tank full of Premium in there, can I put in ethanol free now or shut down the Premium? And is it a good idea to put sea foam in the fuel? And if so, how often?
KPottorff
Joined: June 12, 2006
Posts: 427
Location: Texoma
Samba Member Joined: June 12, 2006 Posts: 427 Location: Texhoma
Posted: Fri May 01 2015 12:47 PM Post subject: Fuel octane rating I use the lowest octane rating in all three of my cars – 2 1600cc and one 1776cc. Keep her in a good mood and it seems to work for me.
“Seafoam” comes into the tank every now and then as a cleaner and stabilizer. Its main function is to absorb moisture and dissolve varnish in the nozzles. It’s not meant to be an octane booster, although it does contain toluene, which is the main ingredient in labeled octane boosters.
Max Welton
Joined: May 19, 2003
Posts: 10647
Location: Black Forest, CO
Samba MemberJoined: May 19, 2003Posts: 10647Location: Black Forest, CO
Posted: Fri May 1st, 2015 2:47pm Post subject:
Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the knife
HomeStretch I use the cheapest, nastiest gas I can find. That’s basically what these cars were designed for after all. forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836
Firing order1432
Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12104
Samba MemberJoined: June 13, 2004Posts: 12104
Posted: Fri May 01 2015 2:58 PM Post subject: Max Welton wrote: I use the cheapest, nastiest gas I can find. After all, this is what these cars were developed for.
Max
This kind of thinking gets people into trouble, but it’s always been with us to cut corners and look for the cheap way out. Proceed with caution. Personally, I dislike ethanol fuel as I’ve seen it cause problems and is known to promote moisture and corrosion in metal fuel cells.
Max Welton
Joined: May 19, 2003
Posts: 10647
Location: Black Forest, CO
Samba MemberJoined: May 19, 2003Posts: 10647Location: Black Forest, CO
Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 3:09 pm Post subject:
Of course, if you leave your car for a long time …
Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the knife
Final sprint This is the kind of thinking that my daily driven car likes. Of course, if you leave your car SIT for any length of time… Max_________________1967 Type-3 FastbackUnder the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582 home stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw /forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836
67Jason
Joined: August 28, 2005
Posts: 4741
Location: behind my hind feet – Pittsburg CA
Samba Member Joined: August 28, 2005 Posts: 4741 Location: behind my hind feet – Pittsburg CA
Posted: Fri May 01 2015 at 9:44 PM Post subject: Ignition sequence1432 wrote: Max Welton wrote: I use the cheapest, nastiest gas I can find. After all, that’s what these cars were designed for.
Max
This kind of thinking gets people into trouble, but it’s always been with us to cut corners and look for the cheap way out. Proceed with caution. Personally, I dislike ethanol fuel as I’ve seen it cause problems and is known to promote moisture and corrosion in metal fuel cells.
I’m using max on this one. I use cheap Low Grade 87 in my $7000 2180 Daily Driver – no problems….and I’m not necessarily cheap
If your shit is in tune and built right, it runs fine on 87. If your compression ratio is on the moon and/or your shit is out of tune, you may need to up the octane to combat ping issues. There is no additional benefit to using more expensive, higher octane gasoline.
_________________
67 errors x3
67 gia
64 error im using max on this. I use cheap low grade 87 in my $7000 2180 day driver – no problems… and I’m not necessarily cheap, if your shit is tuned and built right it will run fine on an 87/or your shit isn’t tuned, you may need to increase the octane to combat ping issues. There is no additional benefit to using more expensive, higher octane gasoline. _________________67 bug x367 ghia64 bug
Firing order1432
Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12104
Samba MemberJoined: June 13, 2004Posts: 12104
Posted: Sat May 02 2015 6:45 PM Post subject: 67jason wrote: Ignitionsequence1432 wrote: Max Welton wrote: I use the cheapest, nastiest gas I can find. After all, this is what these cars were developed for.
Max
This kind of thinking gets people into trouble, but it’s always been with us to cut corners and look for the cheap way out. Proceed with caution. Personally, I dislike ethanol fuel as I’ve seen it cause problems and is known to promote moisture and corrosion in metal fuel cells.
I’m using max on this one. I use cheap Low Grade 87 in my $7000 2180 Daily Driver – no problems….and I’m not necessarily cheap
If your shit is in tune and built right, it runs fine on 87. If your compression ratio is on the moon and/or your shit is out of tune, you may need to up the octane to combat ping issues. There is no additional benefit to using more expensive, higher octane gasoline. I’m using max on this one. I use cheap low grade 87 in my $7000 2180 day driver – no problems… and I’m not necessarily cheap, if your shit is tuned and built right it will run fine on an 87/or your shit isn’t tuned, you may need to increase the octane to combat ping issues. There is no additional benefit to using more expensive, higher octane gasoline.
Yes, my shit is right, whatever that means, it’s way too technical for me to comprehend. Yes, my shit is right, whatever that means, it’s way too technical for me to comprehend.
Volksroeder73
Joined: December 06, 2014
Posts: 20
Location: Spokane
Samba Member Joined: December 6, 2014 Posts: 20 Location: spokane
Posted: Sat May 2nd 2015 9:48pm Post subject: But hey, if you have that much to think about, maybe you should have gotten a Benz. hahaha Y’all are pretty funny… I’m super cheap and my shit is right, but I ride Premium because I feel my baby deserves it. After reading all this, I don’t know what to think, but hey, if you have that much to think about, maybe you should have gotten a Benz. hahaha
Max Welton
Joined: May 19, 2003
Posts: 10647
Location: Black Forest, CO
Samba MemberJoined: May 19, 2003Posts: 10647Location: Black Forest, CO
Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 10:05 pm Post subject:
But I digress.
Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the knife
Final Push My awkwardly worded point is that there’s no reason to use anything other than plain, low-octane fuel. If the CR is much higher than stock, you may need a higher octane fuel. If not, it’s just a waste of money that you could use on something else. I spent some of that money setting up a good FI system. But I digress .com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836
Volksroeder73
Joined: December 06, 2014
Posts: 20
Location: Spokane
Samba MemberJoined: December 6, 2014Posts: 20Location: spokane
Posted: Sat May 2nd 2015 10:17pm Post subject: But hey, if you have that much to think about, maybe you should have gotten a Benz. hahaha Y’all are pretty funny… I’m super cheap and my shit is right, but I ride Premium because I feel my baby deserves it. After reading all this, I don’t know what to think, but hey, if you have that much to think about, maybe you should have gotten a Benz. hahaha
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