Best Glue For Pool Cue Ferrule? Quick Answer

What is the purpose of the sleeve?

The main purpose of the ferrule is to protect the wood at the end of the shaft. A ferrule allows the tip to be changed without damaging the stock wood and can help distribute impact forces on the shaft during tip impact. The ferrule also affects the look, feel (“hit”) and sound of the cue. A smaller and lighter ferrule results in less spatter (since the ferrule material is typically heavier than wood).

from RRfireblade:

Purpose for a ferrule:

* “Intended” to protect the end grain.

* Better base for the glue tip.

* Allows for better surface treatment when retipping, as well as no wood removal to reduce shaft length over time.

* Protects the shaft from poor chalking technique.

* Acts as a buffer to maintain shank diameter during “maintenance”.

* Style and Appearance. Like any other ring work.

*Tradition.

* Really nothing to gain by not having one. (End mass can be equalized or even reduced with the right ferrule material)

from Cornerman (why a ferrule is used):

Tradition. It’s a good bet that a ferrule dates before the tip. Chalk predates the tip, meaning shafts were split and needed protection or repair. With a tip and pad, no ferrule is needed.

from ShootingArts:

…there are almost infinite materials from which to make ferrules, including the billiard balls themselves. Ferrules can be lighter than wood, heavier than wood, stronger than wood, weaker than wood, stiffer than wood, more flexible than that wood and so on. In addition, using glue to hold the ferrule in place can make up for the tiny difference in weight savings of some ferrules.

The ferrule was developed long before we had the quality adhesives we have today. The pads we use now serve the same purpose as the ferrule once did, to keep the wood from splitting. Note that ivory cases are usually fitted with a pad to prevent splitting.

Ferrules are decorative, they can help us aim by giving us an easier spot to focus on, and they can be selected to serve a purpose, most often they give a softer hit. A hard ferrule will stiffen the shot compared to a soft ferrule, but I’m pretty skeptical that a hard ferrule and 29″ wood will deliver a significantly stiffer shot than a 30″ of the same wood. What the hard ferrule can do is change the sound of the hit a bit.

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Club Repair Services

Olney Golf Park offers a wide range of onsite club repair and club modification services (below). For questions regarding club work, pricing and turnaround times, email Club Repair Technician Brendan Horton ([email protected]).

Olney Golf Park renews your clubs with

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and grabs your clubs

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Winn

as well as OEM replacement handles on request (possibly shipping costs)

And if we don’t have what you need in stock, we can usually get it within 1-5 business days. Recycled grips and shafts are also available.

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How is Gorilla Super Glue Gel different from Gorilla Super Glue?

Gorilla Super Glue Gel is a thicker and more controllable formula than our original Gorilla Super Glue. It’s great for projects that require precision. Due to its gel-like consistency, it needs to be shaken vigorously (with the cap on) before each use to remix the formula.

How is Gorilla Super Glue different from Gorilla Glue Original?

Gorilla Super Glue is a cyanoacrylate adhesive while Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane. Unlike Gorilla Glue, Gorilla Super Glue does not foam and does not require moisture to activate. Additionally, Gorilla Super Glue is primarily recommended for interior applications only and is ideal for minor repairs that require immediate bonding and projects where clamping is not required.

Why did my super glue gel separate?

Due to its gel-like consistency, it needs to be shaken vigorously (with the cap on) before each use to remix the formula.

Why is my bottle of Gorilla Super Glue not filled to the brim?

Our bottles are filled by weight and not by volume which is shown on the front of the packs. We package our super glue in thick plastic to protect it from exposure to air and to maximize the shelf life of the product. If the bottle contained more glue, it would become too difficult to dispense the glue from the bottle.

What does Impact Tough mean?

Gorilla Super Glue is specially formulated for increased impact resistance to prevent wear.

Does Gorilla Super Glue glue plastic/vinyl/rubber/glass?

Gorilla Super Glue was developed to achieve excellent results on difficult-to-glue substrates. It is designed to bond to a wide range of materials including most plastics, metals, elastomers (vinyl/rubber), wood and porous surfaces.

Certain plastics that are difficult to bond, such as polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP) or glass, do not bond well. If you would like more information on how Gorilla Super Glue adheres to specific substrates, please contact our technical team through the Contact Us section of the website for assistance.

What is the temperature range of Gorilla Super Glue?

Gorilla Super Glue is best applied at room temperature. After curing, Gorilla Super Glue can hold strong between -53℃ and 104℃.

Is Gorilla Super Glue safe for use in aquariums?

Gorilla Super Glue is not waterproof and we cannot recommend that our products are safe to use in projects involving aquatic life.

Approximately how long does Gorilla Super Glue keep?

The approximate shelf life of Gorilla Super Glue is up to 18-24 months unopened from the date of manufacture. There is no standard time after opening, it depends on the storage conditions and the age of the product, up to 6 months is a good guideline.

Why is my gorilla super glue cured?

Product age, improper storage and post-treatment can cause your adhesive to set and harden. For optimal longevity of your Gorilla Super Glue, store in a cool, dry area, avoid storage in high humidity areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, utility rooms and do not refrigerate.

How do I remove Gorilla Super Glue from my skin or separate stuck skin?

To remove Gorilla Super Glue from your skin, soak the glued area in warm, soapy water. The key is to be patient and NEVER pull the area apart. Gently wiggle the bonded area to allow the soapy water to penetrate the bond. After soaking, the glue should come off easily.

How do I remove Gorilla Super Glue from my surface?

To remove uncured Gorilla Super Glue, use a towel dampened with acetone or isopropyl alcohol to blot the area. Multiple applications may be required to completely remove the uncured adhesive. To remove cured Gorilla Super Glue from the surface of your project, soak the glued area with warm, soapy water or acetone. The adhesive should begin to soften, but many uses may be required. Keep in mind that isopropyl alcohol and acetone can damage some surface materials like countertops and some plastics. Always test on a small, non-visible spot first.

Is Gorilla Superglue food safe?

Gorilla Super Glue is not intended for direct or indirect food contact applications and should not be stored near food or in the refrigerator.

What should I do if a human or animal has ingested a Gorilla Glue product?

In medical emergencies, consult a doctor immediately. Call 999/112 for emergency services. In the event of an animal emergency, contact a veterinarian or animal specialist immediately.

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Threaded PVC connections

PVC fittings can be plain (smooth) or threaded. Male fittings thread hand tight, plus 1-1/4 turns with a small pipe wrench or large channel-lock pliers, into a female fitting of the same size.

Threaded pool PVC fittings are tapered, and over-tightening can cause small stress cracks in the female fitting (or pump or valve connections), which can open and leak quickly or over a period of time.

To prevent over-tightening, manufacturers such as Spears and Lasco recommend using sealing pastes such as Permatex or Rectorseal pipe thread sealant. Silicone thread sealant can also be used, which will disperse into the male threads before screwing into the pipe. Only use sealants that are suitable for PVC, pipe grease and other petroleum-based sealants for steel pipe threads can damage PVC materials.

Teflon tape is not recommended by some manufacturers due to the lubrication it provides, making it easier to overtighten the male fitting. However, Teflon tape is widely used and is a suitable thread sealant in most cases. Sealing properties can be improved by applying a thin coat of Permatex #2 or other silicone thread sealant before wrapping with Teflon tape.

To use Teflon tape on male fittings, apply it clockwise (when looking into the fitting from the threaded end) and wrap it tightly around the threads three times to build up a few layers of Teflon tape. Too many layers of Teflon tape, or previously applied layers of Teflon tape, can result in a splitting of the female fitting or connector.

For a male PVC fitting, tighten only finger tight plus 1 or 2 turns and stop turning when you feel moderate resistance. Pool pump fittings are usually very strong, but female filter multi-port valves and couplings can easily break if a male adapter is overtightened.

PVC adhesive for threaded fittings? Thread sealants can later loosen a threaded fitting, but you can glue threaded PVC fittings together using a primer and PVC glue. However, avoid over-tightening and do not glue threaded fittings into your pool pump, filter or heater which may not be removable should a leak develop.

Replacing a pool cue tip: 6 easy steps to do it yourself

It’s like a bad dream. Your tip is worn out, you have a tournament coming up and can’t reach your local cue repair agent, or maybe there isn’t a cue repair agent in your area at all! Well today is your lucky day! Today we are going to learn how to install a new tip on your cue using the Tweeten cue tip repair kit. Every billiard player should know that. Let’s start.

The picture below shows our bad worn tip. This tip is quite low and risks both affecting your game and potentially damaging your ferrule.

This is what a worn billiard cue tip looks like. If your tip looks like this (or worse) then it’s time to replace it!

Step 1: Remove the old pool cue tip

The first step is to remove the old tip. You’ll need a nice and sharp razor blade to do this (please be careful folks, it’s hard to explain cutting your finger changing your cue tip). Try to get as close to the ferrule as possible. This may take a few passes with the razor blade. Just take your time and slowly remove any leather and excess glue as shown in the sequence below.

Be extra careful when removing your old tip so you don’t injure the side of the ferrule or your fingers.

Step 2: Clean the pool cue ferrule

When you are happy with removing the old tip, you need to make sure the top of the ferrule is clean and as flat as possible. To do this, use the high-speed grinder included in the repair kit. Simply place the shaft against the guide as shown in the images below and rotate until all dirt and glue residue is removed from the top of the ferrule. Be sure to keep the sander nice and flat.

A clean, flat surface of the ferrule is critical for the adhesive to bond properly. The quick grinder in the Tweeten Repair Kit does this step perfectly.

Step 3: Prepare the pool cue tip

Preparing the tip is the next step in the process. To do this, take your favorite point and roughen up the sticky side of the leather with a piece of sandpaper. I do this by laying the sandpaper on a flat surface to ensure I keep it perfectly flat and level as I sand the back of the tip. Grind the tip until it’s nice and rough. It’s important to make sure the tip is roughened to allow the glue to stick a bit. Apply the included tip cement or your favorite glue (I also recommend any type of gel super glue) to the tip.

Roughening the underside of your new pool cue tip is a good way to ensure the glue has somewhere to grab. Be sure to put some glue on the ferrule side too!

Step 4: Place the pool cue tip onto the ferrule

In the following sequence you can see that the next step is to place the tip on the ferrule. Make sure to center the tip as much as possible. Press firmly on the tip to ensure all air pockets are removed; The glue will press onto the ferrule. While holding the tip in place, use a paper towel to wipe away the glue that has no doubt gotten onto the ferrule by now. The more we can detach from the ferrule now, the less you have to worry about trying to sand down later. Next, assemble the tip clamp that came with your kit. This clamp slides over the shaft and as you can see in the photo simply place the elastic on the center of the tip and pull the clamp down. Use the slider to hold the clamp in place. Allow the glue to dry for 10 to 15 minutes.

Center the tip, press down and wipe off the excess glue. Then use the tip clamp to maintain pressure while the adhesive cures for 15 minutes or more.

Step 5: Cut and grind the cue tip at the ferrule

The next step is the part that takes a little patience and practice – cutting the tip to match the diameter of your ferrule. I like to lay the shaft tip down on a hard surface as shown below. Use your razor blade to slowly shave the sides of the tip. Don’t try to peel off too much leather at once, it’s easier to move slowly. As you get closer you can use your ferrule as a guide. Make sure you cut down to the table as straight as possible. As a side note, don’t do this on your kitchen/dining room table…wives and/or mothers don’t appreciate little razor cuts in the finish. Don’t ask me how I know that. Once the tip is the same diameter as the ferrule, you can clean it further, removing any flat spots from the razor blade with a piece of 800-grit sandpaper. Be careful not to grind too much on your ferrule.

Again, be extremely careful with this step so you don’t damage your cue ferrule. Use a high grit sandpaper to get the last bit of lace perfect.

Step 6: Shape the pool cue tip

So now you have a firmly bonded tip and the same diameter as your ferrule, but it’s probably flat. time to shape it. Use your favorite point shaper or the shaper included in the kit. Sand the tip until you get the shape you want, dime, nickel, etc. Once you’ve shaped the tip, wet the side of the tip (a little water works well, but don’t get it too wet). Use a nice piece of leather to buff the sides of your tip. Below is the Pooldawg Tip and Shaft Burnisher.

Buffing the side of the tip gives it a smooth finish and helps it hold its shape.

We now have our finished tip. Not everyone has access to a good cue repair person or even to using a lathe to install tips, but there’s no need to worry now that you know how to install your own tips. Your first attempts may be a bit crude, but over time you will develop your own methods and your tap installations will improve. Here is the end product. Try it yourself and you’ll see that changing your own pool cue tip is easier than you think.

Until next time.

Mikey V

Snooker is a very traditional sport as changes are not made as frequently as in other sports, especially when it comes to renewing the equipment that we see. Recent development of the sport has included the introduction of taom chalk, which has the effect of reducing kicks. But not all players have embraced this new method. We’ve talked a lot lately about changing the cue’s ferrule and whether it matters for improving your shot.

First, let’s explain why the ferrule is even necessary for the cue. In short, the ferrule protects the tip end of the cue from splitting due to the continuous impact it receives. Historically, the ferrule was made from brass, which players have become accustomed to as they rarely change cues throughout their careers. However, it has been discussed that changing the material can be a positive change that players should consider.

But why titanium? Compared to brass, titanium is a lighter but stronger metal that has the effect of reducing deflection (or “throw”) of the cue when playing with the string. This is achieved due to the lighter weight of titanium, which means that when you hit the cue ball there is less force going through it than with a brass cue. At least theoretically anyway. You often hear commentators mention that snooker is a fractional game and you are dealing with fractional weight differences when you switch ferrules, but the concept still applies.

Titanium is also a high-strength metal, so it should have improved durability compared to brass. While pros rarely change the cue throughout their careers, they change tips more often. Frequent tip changes (and different installation techniques) mean that brass ferrules deteriorate over time and corrode more quickly. When installing tips, the sides are often brushed to align the tip with the cue shaft, which negatively affects the ferrule. A titanium ferrule would not be affected as badly and would require less maintenance over time.

But is there a benefit to this important component change? And does it result in a better shot? That depends on the individual. Jimmy White mentioned that titanium ferrule shots are easier, but there is a learning curve. When pros are used to playing shot and allowing for some side or deviation, they can find it harder than expected to get used to a new formula. However, it could help reduce the likelihood of hitting with an unwanted side, which is often the case in long pots.

Ronnie O’Sullivan points out that improvement is more about technique and timing than finding improvements in external factors. This is in contrast to what John Higgins thinks about titanium ferrules (which he recently adopted) where he suggested that a number of small things that can lead to improvement always help. However, O’Sullivan stated that he is open to attempting a ferrule change in the future if he feels the need to do so.

What do you think? Have you tried playing with a titanium ferrule? Do you think there are reasons to apply this type of change to a snooker cue? Let me know in the comments!

Wiping with a damp rag and wiping dry with a dry rag usually does the job fairly well, especially if done regularly. Mr. Clean (or generic brand) Magic Eraser (dry or slightly damp) also does a very good job. See:

from JoW:

I have been cleaning cues for many years and have tried many systems because I like a clean stick. About a year ago, someone mentioned trying Mr. Clean’s Magic Eraser. You can buy these at almost any grocery store. I have found that there is nothing better to restore a cue to like-new condition.

Moisten the sponge like Magic Eraser and wipe the cue and ferrule. Wipe the excess moisture (it should be very little) and dirt off the cue with a cotton towel.

You can use a dollar bill to polish the stick if you want to be like the old pool players.

The best way to smooth out the cue I’ve found is to use an old piece of leather. Could be a piece cut from a belt, the tongue of a shoe, or whatever. Soft natural leather is sufficient.

Wrap the leather around the cue and rock it up and down as fast as you can for the first 18 inches or so. This heats up and seals the cue. It’s almost ready to use.

Wet the edge of the cue tip liberally with saliva, then buff it with a dollar bill or the back of a piece of emery cloth (that’s what I use). This will keep the tip looking good, but more importantly, it will help harden it and make it less likely to fungus.

When it comes to performance, most players will tell you that the majority of a cue’s playability resides in the cue tip and ferrule. The ferrule is the little white piece just below your point at the top of your shaft. At the most basic level, the ferrule is the shock absorber of your pool cue. Like a car’s shock absorber, the ferrule provides an extra level of control over your pool cue. This leads to an even energy transfer throughout the cue. As you can imagine, if your ferrule chips or breaks, you lose consistency and control.

Most cues made today come with either linen fiber, Ivorine III or Aegis ferrules. Custom cues, on the other hand, often come with ivory ferrules, which are believed to provide the best feel. Aegis and Ivorene are considered the best alternative to ivory and can be found in most cue brands including Joss, McDermott and Viking cues.

Which ferrule is right for you depends on your style. If you’re looking for a ferrule that will give your cue more feel and resonance, ivory or a synthetic ivory (Ivorine or Aegis) is probably your best bet. On the other hand, if you want a ferrule that absorbs most of that feel and vibration, linen fiber ferrules are probably a better choice.