Best Muzzle For Chow Chow? All Answers

What images come to mind when you think of a dog in a muzzle? Imagine a snarling dog snarling in anger and baring its teeth? Are words like “vicious” and “biting” running through your mind? If yes, you are not alone. But the truth behind muzzles — and the dogs that wear them — might surprise you.

Our concept of muzzles is influenced by the media, movies and television and it’s no wonder we’re tired of them. Muzzled dogs are often portrayed on screen as angry attack dogs. As an unfortunate result, muzzles are no longer seen as a common and useful training tool, but as a punishment for aggressive dogs that cannot be controlled. The truth is that many of our perceptions of muzzles are based on simple misconceptions – and in some cases they are rooted in outright myths. That’s why the Animal Humane Society is taking the time to clear up these misconceptions about muzzles.

Dogs are one of the most popular types of pets. This is because dogs have been part of our household for thousands of years. Although their ancestors were kept primarily for hunting and guard duty, today’s dogs often find themselves in a companion role. While they may behave around us or in house conditions, there is no guarantee that they will remain nice in other situations. A dog that becomes aggressive towards other dogs while out for a walk or even tries to bite a pedestrian are situations we would rather avoid. In these situations, people usually resort to muzzles as a training method. But is this approach suitable for reducing aggression, or is the use of a muzzle misconstrued? Read below to find out.

Why muzzles are used

The reasons someone muzzles their dog are numerous. You may find yourself in a situation, so it’s best if we cover the usefulness of the muzzle to better understand its implications.

The correct way to use muzzles is to condition your dog to wear them. Starting at a young age is a smart idea. The dog has more time to get used to it and to feel comfortable when wearing a muzzle. The muzzle should also not be used too often as prolonged use outside of necessary situations can cause problems for the dog. They might also refuse to wear it again if this long-term use occurs repeatedly.

If your dog is easily disturbed or shows signs of anxiety, wearing a muzzle in situations that provoke him is not only helpful, but also shows your responsibility as a dog owner. This fear can occur during vet visits. It’s not uncommon for dogs to feel uncomfortable in these spaces, especially when they first go there. The uncharted territory where all other animals smell is confusing enough for our furry friends. When you add needles and other veterinary tools to the mix, it becomes very easy for even the friendliest of dogs to lash out due to confusion and fear. It is recommended that you wear a muzzle during vet visits, you never know when something distressing may happen to your dog. It is not only to prevent them from biting the vet or themselves during visits, but also for their own protection.

For anxious dogs, a muzzle is recommended, which has to meet a few important requirements. The first thing to consider with any muzzle purchase is finding a size that fits your dog comfortably. The second is to never use more uncomfortable muzzles for long periods of time. This includes muzzles such as the occlusion muzzle, which completely closes the dog’s mouth and prevents it from moving. Said muzzle and similar styles should not be used at all in hot weather unless it is a dire situation such as an emergency vet visit. Dogs cool off by panting, so limiting their ability to do so can lead to health problems for your dog. Check out the right muzzles for the right situations on kuoser, which has a ton of choices for every breed of dog.

The use of muzzles on aggressive dogs follows similar principles. But in the following category, we’ll go into more detail about its usefulness in this department.

Do muzzles help with aggression?

People sometimes only use a muzzle when the dog is becoming dangerously aggressive. This aggression doesn’t stop just because a muzzle is put on, and it can get worse if the dog isn’t properly muzzle trained. The frustration offered by the muzzle can make the dog more likely to attack. Although it cannot bite, the dog can still butt into others with its snout, scratch them, fall, bruise, and otherwise injure itself.

Wearing a muzzle is intended to prevent dogs from biting in surprising, stressful situations. It can also be used as a safety measure when taking the dog to a vet or groomer. However, a muzzle is not capable of correcting a dog’s behavior. An aggressive dog needs proper training, not just a muzzle. As we said before, a muzzle can be even more annoying.

Training can also help you figure out why a dog behaves the way it does. The behavior problems have a rationale that can help you help your dog behave better. This may be due to the dog’s fear. It can be general fear, fear of a shelter dog, or any other type that could be causing this bad behavior. Dog anxiety has as many different types of treatment as it has variations, it’s best to consult professionals on how to help the dog. Sometimes this is done in the simplest of ways to avoid situations that trigger their anxiety. reducing their general distress. The muzzle is still used in some dog training procedures for the safety of both the dogs and the trainer, but they are usually removed as the dog becomes better trained. A muzzle can also help with anxiety in some cases, but these are more niche situations than general advice.

To reiterate, using muzzles on aggressive dogs will not help their aggression and may bother them more. Dogs with behavioral problems require training and proper care. If your dog is showing signs of aggression, muzzled is counterproductive.

Conclusion

Relying on muzzles to train your dog just doesn’t work. There are also cases when owners use uncomfortable or unsuitable muzzles for their dogs, which causes more harm to the pet. Like any treatment, dog aggression and dog anxiety treatments require a lot of care from their owner. Just because a training session is over doesn’t mean you are responsible for it. Constantly condition the dog with treats and rewards when he is behaving properly. Give him enough reassurance through petting and relaxation to make him feel more comfortable in certain areas. Be careful not to bother them any more though, as they may end up flailing. Finally, identify the triggers of their anxiety, as avoiding these situations will make your dog that much happier.

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A common question I hear a lot is, “Why do dogs turn on their owners?”

Dogs attack for a variety of reasons, and most of them generally root in causes that somehow make sense when attacking a stranger.

However, when a dog turns on its owner, it is a mysterious incident to most.

After all, their owner is the person they seek safety, affection and sustenance from, so it seems almost unthinkable that they would turn against their owners.

However, it does happen, so let’s look at the question: Why do dogs turn on their owners?

Why do dogs turn on their owners?

This is a somewhat charged question and not an easy one. Contrary to popular belief, dogs rarely turn against their owners for no reason.

Before we get into why dogs attack their owners, it’s important to understand a dog’s mind.

Dogs are instinctive

Dogs don’t think like humans. Dogs act on instinct while humans act on reason.

Although dogs are intelligent beings, they do not calculate.

You have no sense of right or wrong. Dogs are largely reactive cause and effect creatures.

Training our dogs is all about teaching them that the reason for getting treats is to obey commands.

Their reactive minds lead them to do things like chase squirrels and other small animals.

Our dogs are also pack animals, so they understand hierarchies.

However, just like its wolf ancestors, a dog’s instincts can cause it to behave aggressively, even towards its pack leader – its owner.

It’s these strong instincts that are the most common cause of dog attacks, especially when it comes to attacking owners.

Causes of Dog Attacks on Owners

The best way to answer the question of why dogs turn against their owners is to break it down into different causes.

There are actually a number of reasons why a dog might turn against its owner, and only one of them can happen out of the blue.

This is an important distinction because knowing why a dog might turn is key to avoiding dangerous situations for you and your dog.

In reality, almost all owner attacks can be considered accidental.

Although the dog might deliberately attack its owner, the reasoning is usually flawed and driven by instinct.

This means that understanding why dogs roll over is key to preventing them from turning around.

booty ride

Prey drive is a major reason why some dogs attack their owners.

Dogs are highly intelligent animals, but more than that, they are very instinctive animals.

Prey drive is a part of this, especially in breeds that have been developed specifically for hunting.

Most people these days are not hunters, which means their dogs don’t have an outlet for this behavior. This can lead to tragic events.

For example, a breed with a high prey drive, such as a greyhound, might hunt squirrels, other small animals, or even a child who taunts them up and down a fence line.

It’s in his DNA to do so.

However, trying to stop him from doing this can sometimes result in an accidental bite due to overstimulation.

Here’s a scenario.

Chasing a creature or person up and down a fence line, the hound is now in a heightened, prey-driven state.

His owner comes out to bring him back inside so he can calm down.

When the owner grabs their dog’s collar, the dog’s prey drive, already in fifth gear, tells the dog to turn around and bite the hand.

The dog is not angry with its owner. He does not punish his master.

He’s simply responding to the DNA-rooted instinct his breeding has bred in his brain.

Territory or resource protection (or both)

Territorial or resource protection can be another answer to the question: Why do dogs turn on their owners?

Dogs are very territorial creatures, and while some dogs welcome visitors, others are quite gracious hosts.

When new people or animals are introduced into the home, the dog might feel that its territory or the possessions within its territory are threatened.

This can put him in an exalted state where he must guard both his home and his belongings.

When a dog gets into such a state, sometimes it doesn’t take much to trigger an instinctive bite.

For example, if your dog is guarding a toy or bone and you reach down to pick it up — even if it’s just to move it to another spot in the house — your dog could potentially bite your hand for guarding instincts.

This is most likely to occur when other people or animals have passed and he’s really gotten going.

Emphasize

Stress is a big culprit in dog bites, whether they’re strangers, other dogs, or owners.

Dogs are creatures of habit. That’s why the training works so well.

However, when this routine gets disrupted, it can cause a lot of stress. When a dog gets into a state of stress, it can become too much for them.

When that happens, it’s all too easy for him to instinctively bite another animal or human.

He is in a fight or flight state and has nowhere to fly to. Only fighting remains.

Situations that can cause increased stress include:

overnight guests

Holiday crowds indoors

Fireworks

storm

Pains

Pain can also cause reactive biting and snapping.

When dogs are in pain, their instincts tell them to keep anything away from the painful part of their body.

This instinct can easily lead to lashing out with a bite.

Something as simple as accidentally stepping on your dog’s tail can cause him to instinctively turn around and bite in what appears to be an attack.

Snapping and biting can also occur when your dog is in chronic pain or has an injured body part that is being bumped or poked, causing severe pain.

The pain response triggers his instinct to protect his body from anything that “attacks” him.

insanity

You may not know it, but dogs can have mental illnesses just like humans.

This is the only case where there can be no precursor to an attack at all. In many cases, this is due to poor breeding or inbreeding.

It’s one of the most tragic answers to the question: Why do dogs turn on their owners?

Whether a dog has something like OCD, separation anxiety, excessive anxiety, or excessive aggression, any of these can cause a dog to bite anything or anyone, even its owner.

These mental illnesses all put a dog in an elevated state of fear, aggression, or compulsion.

In any of these cases, an unexpected intrusion into that scenario, such as a hand or foot, can cause a bite.

Mental illnesses can manifest themselves in a variety of ways.

OCD – Typical signs include tail chasing, excessive licking, and chasing shadows or reflections.

Typical signs include tail chasing, excessive licking, and chasing shadows or reflections. Separation Anxiety – Typical signs include excessive barking, destructive tendencies, soiling the house, and pacing.

Typical signs include excessive barking, destructive tendencies, soiling the home, and pacing. Excessive Anxiety – Typical symptoms include hiding, fleeing, shaking, drooling, wheezing, loss of appetite, aggression, and self-destructive behavior.

Why do dogs turn on their owners? The answer can be the solution

Now that you know the answer to the question, “Why do dogs turn against their owners?” you can help prevent these situations.

As you can see from the information above, there are several reasons why a dog can attack anyone, including its owner.

If you know these reasons, you can avoid this outcome.

By knowing your dog and what he reacts negatively to, you can make him comfortable and avoid situations that could lead to a dog bite.

Have you ever dealt with a dog that turns you on? Share your experiences below.

introduction

The Chow Chow is one of the oldest breeds known to man. They originally came from China as a multi-purpose dog, useful in war, hunting, and around the home. With their incredibly fluffy coat, smooth or rough, thicker around the ruff to enhance their lion-like appearance, blue tongue and wrinkled face, the Chow Chow is one of the most distinctive dogs. They’re cuddly and intimidating at the same time. Chows are known to be extremely loyal and protective of their families. Therefore, it is very important to carefully socialize your Chow and teach them to be polite with visitors. While all puppies tend to be bite-sized and teaching mouth manners is important for all breeds, it is extraordinarily important for breeds like the Chow.

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define tasks

Like human babies, puppies explore the world with their mouths, and your Chow pup is no exception. Growing puppies also learn social rules and etiquette, and controlling their mouths is one of the most important of those rules. Your Chow pup was taught about bite pressure by his mother and siblings, but now that he’s living in a human family he’ll have to learn a whole new set of rules. While you and your family enjoy watching your adorable Chow Chow puppy’s wild play, you will be less happy when your Chow is big and his bites start to hurt. Teach bite inhibition and control now to prevent problems later.

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Started

While your pup won’t bite you just because he doesn’t have anything else to chew on, having plenty of other things to chew on will help redirect his urge to chew on you. Make sure you have plenty of good chew toys, balls, and tugs for her to bite into. Puppies like different materials, textures, and sizes, so make sure you offer variety to your chow. Food is the big motivator when it comes to puppy training and even if your chow chow really wants to nibble on you, she will hold back if he presents really tasty food. Make sure you have plenty of good treats available, but be sure to balance nutrients for your pup’s fast-growing body.

There are many instances where you may need to create a makeshift muzzle for your pup. If your dog has been injured and wants to chew on the injury, if your dog is acting aggressively and you don’t have a muzzle with you, you need to be able to muzzle in a pinch. You might also come across an injured dog that you don’t know and want to muzzle him to be safe while you treat injuries and take him to a vet. Fortunately, for such situations, there is an easy way to make a muzzle out of gauze and other fabrics.

1. Approach the dog in a calm, reassuring manner.

Our instincts can lead us to pounce on our dog if he suddenly becomes aggressive or injured. However, this is the wrong way to muzzle a dog. You need to remember that your dog is excited, scared, in pain, or a combination of these things and he’s paying attention to you, his alpha, how to behave. Talk to your pup in a soothing voice and approach him slowly.

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2. Place the dog in a comfortable position.

Do not hold your dog with excessive force as this could stress them out even more than they already are. You will want to position your dog in a comfortable position where you also have access to his muzzle. For a small dog, it may be better to put them on a table and for a larger dog, the floor should work. Veterinarians recommend laying your dog on his stomach while wrapping your arm around his back to keep him calm but firmly in place. Larger dogs should be in a seated position where you can stand with them between your legs while you muzzle them.

3. Get a long piece of gauze.

Gauze that is too stretchy will not be strong and a very excited dog will be able to shake it loose. If you only have stretch gauze on hand, double it to increase its strength. In general, the gauze should be long enough to wrap around the muzzle at least twice and then reach behind the ears to tie in place. Other strips of cloth can also be used in an emergency situation: cloth, tights, ribbons, and nylon leashes can also work. The muzzle should be tight enough where your dog cannot open its mouth, but not too tight to interfere with breathing.

4. Make a large loop in the middle of the gauze.

This loop should be about three times the size of your dog’s snout so that you can easily tighten and tighten it. Place the loop around the muzzle and tighten it at the top of the nose by tying it with a single knot.

5. Place the ends of the gauze back under your dog’s snout.

After tying the temporary snout onto the top of the nose, loop the two ends of the gauze around to form a second loop around the snout. Tie these ends together with another single knot under the jawline.

6. Bring the gauze behind the ears.

Once the loop is secured around your dog’s snout, thread the ends of the gauze (now under your dog’s jaw) around the back of the ears. Tie the gauze in a square knot and secure.

7. Make sure you have scissors handy.

Once the temporary muzzle is in place, it is imperative that you can remove it quickly in an emergency, such as if your dog starts vomiting. Have a small pair of scissors handy to be on the safe side.

Here’s a video showing you how it works:

REMEMBER: A dog that needs to be muzzled is often a frightened or excited dog. Be sure to take precautions for yourself when muzzled a dog. Do not approach the dog suddenly, use a calm and reassuring voice, and exercise gentle but firm restraint when necessary.

Home » Library » Teachings » Muzzles suitable for everyday use – no longer just for aggression! By Nan Arthur on 02/04/2013 I-Click Filed under Everyday Skills Times are changing For many people, the idea of ​​a muzzle evokes a longstanding association with aggressive dogs. This impression can create feelings of fear and concern when people hear about or witness a muzzled dog. There’s no denying that when many people see a muzzled dog, many people picture something resembling a Hannibal Lecter character (a monster, but in fur)! But muzzles aren’t just for aggression anymore. It is high time to dispel these negative mental images. Rather than disparaging muzzles, it’s time to appreciate muzzles for all the good things they can do for dogs. The veterinarian’s perspective A good place to start is with some insight from the veterinary community. Jeannie Brousseau, RVT (Registered Vet Tech), at the Pasadena Humane Society and SPCA, once said, “Muzzles keep a good dog good.” Think of a typical vet visit with your own dog. Is she nervous, worried, anxious, or anxious? Oftentimes, dogs displaying these emotions are taken “back” where they receive routine treatments such as vaccinations. This is usually done to spare you anxiety should your dog panic during these procedures and to avoid bites. If a dog that has been taken away from the owner shows signs of being bitten, the dog will often be muzzled – usually immediately and sometimes with a quick but invasive bandage around the muzzle. If your dog has never worn a muzzle or has become comfortable with one, there’s a good chance that suddenly putting on a muzzle could lead to future handling problems and more anxiety the next time he has to go to the vet. This experience and reaction could easily be transferred not only to the vet staff, but also to other situations that might feel threatening to your dog when people get close to your dog’s head or face. Start Early and Benefit from Routine and Emergency Treatments Being proactive and teaching your dog to love their muzzle before taking them to the nearest vet will minimize handling and/or restraint from vet staff. If you teach your dog to love wearing a muzzle, you can bring your dog’s muzzle to the vet with you. Play fun muzzle games with the muzzle and the end result will be that your dog doesn’t need to be manhandled to muzzle him when he needs to be examined or taken “back” for treatments. If your dog is ever injured or hurt, being comfortable with a muzzle can prevent the vet staff trying to help your dog from getting bitten. If your dog bites someone at the vet, the bite will usually be reported to the local animal welfare agency, even if your dog is in pain. As a result, most states will require your dog to be quarantined for about 10 days, making the injury worse. Keep in mind that if your dog is injured or in pain, putting a muzzle on them before attempting to move or transport them may also prevent you or anyone else trying to help your dog , sure to get to a vet, is bitten. Video courtesy of Dearing English. Touches can mean treats and trust. Teaching puppies to accept a muzzle is a wonderful way to work on general touching and handling. This training also teaches puppies to keep their mouths and those sharp little teeth away from you. Working on muzzle training creates the wonderful association between human hands and treats: “When hands get near my face, good things happen.” With this motivation, puppies can focus quickly and learn to get their faces in their snouts and not use their hands for teething. The more puppies associate wearing a muzzle with fun play, the faster the overall handling and touching exercises go, making it easier to make contact and increase touching of other parts of the dog’s face and body. If you are dealing with handling, husbandry, or grooming corrective activities with your dog, an excellent way to teach your dog to wear a muzzle to desensitize common face and ear handling before moving on to additional behavior changes for these sensitivities. It’s important to realize that desensitization to handling and similar experiences takes more time than just teaching your dog that he’s comfortable wearing a muzzle. The time will be worth it in the long run as your dog will feel more secure. You and others who may need to handle your dog will too. Take the time to combine the muzzle and all handling components necessary for attachment with pleasurable experiences. When you reward and reinforce with great food, you make the process even more enjoyable for your dog. The positive associations that come with muzzle training make your dog trust you. When you are more relaxed, your dog will be too, making each process that much easier. Muzzles for New Situations, New Friends, and New Challenges Using a muzzle is an important behavior change tool when a dog is reactive. The muzzle allows you to be safe when dealing with other dogs or people. Of course, work with an experienced trainer. If something goes wrong or a line is unknowingly crossed, the muzzle will prevent your dog from biting and give you peace of mind in a training class or similar situation. desensitization program. Muzzles are also a valuable safety tool when introducing a different species to your dog during a program. Muzzles are also a valuable safety tool to use when introducing your dog to a different species during a desensitization program. Traveling abroad with your dog is another reason to teach your dog to love a muzzle. In more and more countries, dogs of certain types and/or weights are required to wear a muzzle. A ruined holiday could be your future if you travel with your dog and haven’t taught him to like wearing a muzzle. For example, France requires muzzles for larger dogs. There are places here in the United States where muzzles are now mandatory. More and more cities are requiring breeds like pit bulls to wear a muzzle in public. Malden, Massachusetts, and Jefferson City, Missouri have joined the ranks of cities where, for example, pit bulls are required to be muzzled. These rules may not seem fair, but they’re better than an outright ban on a breed like in Denver, Colorado, where pit bulls and pit bull types are banned in the city. Sport and games Dog sport, dog racing, is becoming increasingly popular. Traditionally this was a sport for sighthounds but it is now open to all breeds that enjoy running. There is a muzzle obligation! Muzzles can be used as fun food toys. Use a basket muzzle as a puzzle by having your dog figure out how to get treats from inside the muzzle, or ask your dog to use its tongue to lick treats from the hole in front of a soft muzzle! Fitting a Muzzle Before we discuss or describe the different types of muzzles, it is important to understand what a well-fitted muzzle looks like. The final fit for your dog should come after basic training. In the early stages of training, it’s not important that the muzzle fits perfectly, just that your dog learns to love putting his face into it willingly. When you are ready to size the muzzle, the first rule for a good fit is that the muzzle is snug, but not too tight. The muzzle should also allow your dog to open his mouth, but should prevent him from opening it all the way. It’s important to have multiple customizations to choose from. Muzzles for larger dogs may have a strap that runs from the top of the head to the top of the basket to hold it in place; The harness should have its own adjustment. Most muzzle manufacturers have guidelines for proper sizing. However, if there is a store or outlet where you can bring your friendly dog ​​or pup for the best fit, that’s even better. Types of muzzles. Muzzles The most common muzzles are basket muzzles (often known as greyhound muzzles) and soft mesh muzzles. Basket muzzles are bulkier but have advantages over most other muzzles. It is easy to feed dogs through the slots of a basket muzzle, and basket muzzles allow dogs to pant (sweat) and drink. Basket muzzles are made of plastic or metal, and sometimes a combination of both. There are also basket muzzles with combinations of wire and leather, as well as pure leather versions. For general long-term wear, this type of muzzle is the safest, allowing dogs to pant and preventing bites. Mesh muzzles are ideal for quick use, for example at the vet, and are easier to transport thanks to their lightweight construction. They can be easily folded and thrown in a bag or bag. Because soft mesh muzzles do not allow panting and because they keep a dog’s mouth more closed (making it harder to deliver treats), these muzzles should only be considered for short-term use. A softie muzzle is another option that some trainers prefer. These muzzles offer a comfortable fit that also allows dogs to pant. However, some reports have warned of the possibility of dogs biting through the soft sides. For severe aggression, the softie muzzle could defeat the original purpose of using a muzzle. Another option, while not very effective, is certainly cute. The quack muzzle does a wonderful job removing some of the negative associations with muzzles but has an opening wide enough that a dog could still bite. However, teaching a dog to wear a muzzle could be fun and would make dog owners laugh! Consider the duckbill muzzle a transitional muzzle while you work towards the real thing. Avoid using Gentle Leaders or other head halters as a substitute for a muzzle as they are not muzzles and should not be used in place of one. Head halters can partially close a dog’s mouth but do not prevent bites. Head halters also rely on the handler being able to hold the dog’s head on the leash – which is not always practical with a large or powerful dog, or a person of small stature. Overall, head halters do not offer the same level of control or security as a muzzle. Two-Step Training Think of muzzle training as a two-step process. The first step is to get your dog to put his face in his muzzle. The second step is to work your dog towards the goal of attaching the buckle or Velcro. Feeding near the muzzle opening. Step 1: Teach the dog to put its face in the muzzle Hold the muzzle with the large opening facing your dog and all straps folded back and out of the way. Show your dog the muzzle and click or tag it with a word like “yip” or “click.” Afterwards, treat yourself to a treat your dog will love. Your dog just needs to look at the snout to get the click and reward. However, if your dog is familiar with new and novel things, you may be able to get closer to your dog in the beginning. Test it out by doing a few quick clicks and rewarding with treats just for looking down the snout. Proceed if you see it’s no big deal for your dog. After finding your dog can comfortably see the muzzle, move the muzzle a little closer, and then click and treat it several times. Important Notes: Proceed at your dog’s pace. In other words: take your time. Rushing past important steps can set you back and the workout will take even more time.

Use really good, quality treats. You want your dog to think the muzzle is actually fun and reinforce it.

Stick with each step until your dog is successful (5-20 attempts) and then move on to the next step. Your dog should look comfortable at each stage and ready for another repetition before moving on to the next stage.

Working with a basket muzzle, you can easily feed your dog from the front or place larger treats for your dog in the muzzle.

Many people find it easier to use a tag word or the i-click with one foot than trying to manipulate a clicker, treats, and the muzzle. If you choose to use a clicker, do not click near your dog’s face or ears as this can be an uncomfortable experience. Choose what works best for you and what is comfortable for your dog.

Word or using the i-click with one foot easier than trying to manipulate a clicker, treats and the muzzle. If you decide to use a clicker, don’t click near your dog’s face or ears as it can be an experience. Choose what works best for you and what is comfortable for your dog. If your dog has a strong nose aimed at a hand or other object, use this behavior to encourage him to touch the muzzle with your established signal. You may choose to teach the nose target before inserting the muzzle.

. You may choose to teach the nose target before inserting the muzzle. Keep your sessions short and take plenty of breaks. A good rule of thumb is 5-15 minutes, with breaks after 10-15 treats to play, drink, or give your dog a chance to process the lesson.

The end goal is for your dog to press their face into the muzzle and stabilize their head while you buckle or fasten the muzzle. You mold your dog to interact with the muzzle and eventually stick their nose in, so keep the steps small. Click and reinforce with the treat near the snout to emphasize the association of the treats around the snout. Ultimately, the treats will be in the snout. Dogs who are uncomfortable with touching the outside of their muzzle may be more reluctant to put their face in their muzzle. For a hesitant dog, switch to treats that the dog could lick (cheese, cream cheese, peanut butter, etc.) that you can place on the rim of the inside of the muzzle. Have the dog lick the edge. After a few times, start placing the reinforcement deeper in the muzzle. Go slowly! Move the snout away between each close try to give your dog a little disappointment. Your dog will be delighted when you present it again. If you move slowly, take plenty of breaks, and use quality treats that help your dog stay nose-to-snout, you should be able to move into the attachment phase of training fairly quickly. Before proceeding with the fastener component, give the behavior a hint, such as “snout” or “face.” Once the behavior is trending, practice holding the muzzle at different heights and in different areas around the house. Your dog will learn to move towards the muzzle from different distances and places when asked to do so. Step 2: Attaching the muzzle This can be a more difficult process as it requires more invasive manipulation. The attachment also creates noises that your dog may not be familiar with near their ears. Go slow again. If you think you’re going slow, go even slower, especially if your dog is sensitive to noise! Start clicking and encourage your dog to hear the sound of the clasp. If you think your dog will be sensitive to the sound, start at a distance, attach the muzzle, and then tag and treat just to hear the sound. After clicking, continue to reinforce by placing a treat in the snout. Remove the muzzle after the reinforcement is consumed. Be sure to lower the criteria for your dog at this point. She doesn’t have to put her face in her muzzle for now (except to get the treat). Work only on the sound of the shutter. Stay at this level until your dog becomes comfortable as the sound gets closer and closer to the top of his head. It’s not important to still attach the muzzle, just work to ensure that the noise is acceptable near your dog’s head. The sound of the clasp can act as a click or a mark, leaving both hands free to manipulate the clasp. Once you feel that your dog is comfortable with the sound of the shutter from afar, slowly work on creating the sound close to your dog’s ears. Next, thread the straps around your dog’s head. Keep in mind that it doesn’t have to fit right at this point. You will be working on the ribbons coming around and cutting off the clasp. Talk to your dog with your chosen muzzle cue. When she has her nose in the muzzle, attach the strap and brace your dog through the front of the muzzle. Once you can successfully clamp the straps around your dog’s head, move on to the tighter fitting straps. present muzzle. Well-fitting muzzles fit snugly thanks to the straps that go around the top of the head and just behind the ears. When you’re done attaching the straps, you can snap the pieces together. Once you’ve combined the parts, the next goal is for your dog to be comfortable wearing the muzzle for long periods of time. Offer multiple treats through the front of the muzzle to solidify your dog’s comfort with the muzzle. If you remove the muzzle, the treats should stop until your dog wears it again. Build more endurance by jumping around with your workout instead of just making it harder each time. Sometimes give the muzzle a cue and mark when your dog puts his face in the muzzle—but don’t pinch the clasp. In other cases, only the fastener. In other cases, put everything together, but delay the click for a few seconds. Keep building up the duration by adding just a few seconds at a time before your click, but always add some quick and easy requests and reinforcements as well. Muzzles make all the difference It won’t be long before your dog will be wearing their muzzle! Remember that muzzles shouldn’t only be used when scary things are happening. Use the muzzle as a training tool that is sometimes used in uncomfortable situations for your dog. Use the muzzle as a training tool that is sometimes used in uncomfortable situations for your dog. Muzzles are like any other training device in that they provide an opportunity to have fun training with your dog. They can also be considered part of your emergency kit, which can be very handy for relaxing your dog and possibly even preventing your dog from biting in stressful situations. When more muzzles are used as a routine training and travel tool, their appearance will not be as startling. The image associated with muzzles will improve and the automatic label or stigma “aggressive” will fade. Related Products Baskerville Ultra Muzzle

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Healing of the Aggressive Dog

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introduction

Muzzles are disliked by many dog ​​owners because we automatically associate a muzzled dog with aggression. But in fact there are a variety of situations where muzzles are required by law (e.g. on public transport). With appropriate training, your dog should have no problem wearing a well-fitting muzzle.

Why do you need a muzzle?

Before you think of anything else, you need to decide why you need the muzzle:

Only “for show” (i.e. to follow the rules) on public transport, if your dog does not bite, a muzzle made of light materials is sufficient to prevent your dog from eating – if your dog has food special muzzle help to avoid trouble during food training to prevent bites – as an additional safety measure when walking, training or in situations that your dog has not yet mastered

Remember safety first. There’s no shame in muzzled your dog when you’re visiting family, for example, when you’re not sure how he’s going to behave.

Materials and Manufacturing

Once you know the purpose, you can consider what material and type to choose. The muzzle must be comfortable – no amount of training will help if your dog is in pain.

Biothane muzzles are soft and pretty and easy to adjust. They are not as sturdy as metal or plastic. If you want your dog to still look friendly, they might be a good choice. They’re expensive, but you can make them yourself.

Leather muzzles have the same advantages as Biothane and are slightly cheaper. . However, leather requires a lot of care, otherwise it becomes rough and uncomfortable.

Plastic muzzles are sturdy, but they can feel too rough for some dogs. Custom 3D printed muzzles are available in some countries. They’re custom made and very light, which is a plus. On the other hand, they cannot be readjusted after printing and are very expensive.

Rubber muzzles are very light and the dog cannot hurt themselves even if they “hit” someone with them (which can be a real problem with metal muzzles). They are also adjustable to a certain extent (so-called thermoforming). However, the most popular brand only sells them in one shape and six sizes, meaning you’re unlikely to find the right fit.

Metal muzzles are usually the strongest and best if you’re concerned about biting. They are also lighter than Biothane models. You still have to watch out for your dog, he can’t bite, but he can still cause damage if he hits someone with the hard metal snout. Another advantage is that most well-known brands sell many different models and sizes, making it easier to find a good fit.

Nylon/mesh muzzles may look friendly, but in fact they do not allow the dog to breathe freely or drink water, so they are not the best choice for most situations.

IMPORTANT: Regardless of the material, make sure that the straps used to attach the muzzle are wide and soft and do not injure your dog.

Find the right fit

To find the right muzzle, you need to measure your dog. Your dog needs to be able to drink, take treats, and pant. Remember to add extra room to the muzzle circumference!

If there isn’t a well-stocked store near you, it’s best to order several sizes and then send back the ones that don’t fit.

muzzle training

Finding the right fit is half the job, then you need to teach your dog to wear them. In general, muzzle training consists of the following steps:

Snout-feed your dog treats until he sticks his nose in without hesitation. You can do this by feeding them liver pâté or peanut butter through the snout.

Expert Tip: Reward in time and always remove the muzzle before the dog tries to pull its head out! They should learn to stick their noses in, not out. Add Duration: Wait for them to put their nose in before giving the treat. Gradually increase the time before releasing the treat to 1 second, 2 seconds, 3 seconds, 5 seconds… Once your dog can remain still for 5-10 seconds, begin to fasten the straps. First one, reward, off…etc. Until you can attach the muzzle. Then let your dog wear it around the house for a short time while you do nice things – feed treats, do stunts, watch TV. Start with 30 seconds – 1 minute and gradually increase the duration.

This video by Michael Shikashio shows a simple method for muzzle training your dog. In this tutorial it takes 3 weeks, but keep in mind that it may take longer if your dog is particularly sensitive. Always move at your dog’s pace!

Even if you don’t think your dog will ever need a muzzle (great with kids, never rides public transport, etc.), it makes sense to teach them to muzzle! You just never know when you might need it, and putting it on without prior training can make muzzle training really difficult later on.

examples

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Help, my dog ​​is pulling on the leash!

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When and how to use these security tools

We all like to think that our dogs are perfectly trained and have good intentions, but the reality is that dogs are still dogs and things happen. While few dogs are truly aggressive, many will bite out of fear or excitement. Teaching your dog to accept a muzzle now can make a world of difference at times when a dog needs to do something they don’t want to tolerate.

“Most of the time we don’t need muzzles,” says Dr. Leni Kaplan ’91, Associate Professor of Clinical Sciences at Cornell’s Small Animal Community Practice. “Our veterinary team strives to provide our patients with a safe, comfortable and low-stress environment, including the provision of positive reinforcement and the use of low-stress restraint and handling techniques during vet visits. If necessary and without hesitation, we use muzzles. Muzzles are not painful and do not prevent dogs from breathing.”

When to use a muzzle

A muzzle can be used anytime you are concerned that your dog might try to bite a person or animal. Running and playing in a group of dogs will cause some dogs to become overstimulated and attempt to grab. Other dogs will attack people and dogs that walk past their home. Some people get stressed out in certain situations, like trimming their nails. And any dog ​​can bite out of pain in an emergency situation, such as during an event resulting in bodily harm.

Pay attention to your dog’s body language. “If a dog is giving us obvious signs of fear and warning us that it’s going to snap or bite, we use a muzzle for the safety of owners, staff and patients,” says Kaplan. “Any dog ​​that has actually bitten in the past will also be muzzled as a precaution for everyone’s safety.”

Signs that your dog is uncomfortable and may escalate to biting include:

Tense posture

The whites of the eyes become visible

shrink away

Hair raised at the nape and back

hard look

growl

lunging

seem painful

You know your dog better than anyone, so don’t hesitate to speak up if your dog is sending signals that he’s really upset or if he’s in a situation where he’s tried to bite before. Also, don’t be offended if a veterinarian or groomer asks you to muzzle your dog (even if you don’t think it’s necessary). This person is trying to avoid a situation where your dog could get into trouble.

Kaplan has another situation where muzzles come in handy. She says: “Some dogs who have a tendency to eat inedible objects (rocks, peaches, balls, etc.) and end up needing foreign body surgery often wear basket muzzles for years when they are outside or on walks to prevent them from eating eat indiscriminately. ”

introduce a muzzle

Teach your dog to wear a muzzle now, even if he’s the cutest dog in the world. If they ever hurt themselves, your dog could bite in pain. It’s far less stressful for a dog to wear a muzzle if they’ve already been trained to wear one in a quiet environment.

“The key to getting a dog to accept a muzzle is to acclimate him to muzzle wearing and tolerance slowly and in a stress-free environment with positive reinforcement,” says Kaplan.

“Putting and immediately removing the muzzle several times a day for about a week is a good start. Immediately after the snout is removed, give the pet a treat and praise. Over time, clamp the muzzle and then immediately remove it. Then start by leaving the muzzle on for up to three seconds and then remove it. And so on until the muzzle is another accessory like a harness or a coat.”

Buy a muzzle now, and then practice making the dog wear it at various stress-free times. This is an important step in making sure your dog doesn’t just associate it with scary experiences.

Muzzle choice: Assess the situation

Basket muzzles: Best for prolonged use. Provide the greatest possible protection. Usually hard plastic or metal with leather or nylon straps. The hard material forms a cage or basket that fits around the dog’s snout, with the straps wrapping behind the dog’s head to hold it in place. Dogs can pant, drink water and eat treats normally in a basket muzzle. However, they cannot bite.

: Best for prolonged use. Soft or “sleeveless” muzzles: Best for temporary use, such as B. Nail care. They limit panting and drinking. Dogs can still nip. Usually made of fabric, leather or mesh. Fits snugly over dog’s muzzle with straps going around behind head.

: Best for temporary use, e.g. B. for cutting nails. Gauze muzzles : Temporary emergency fixation. Made from any material that is practical, such as. B. roll gauze, ribbon or even a spare line. Make a loop that goes over the dog’s snout, cross the ends under the chin, and then wrap around the back of the head to tie and secure.

: Temporary emergency fixation.

The thought of putting a muzzle on your dog can be unsettling. You may be wondering if your pet can drink, pant, or even breathe while muzzled. Is a dog muzzle painful or cruel? You may think that a muzzle is the best option for your dog’s situation, but how do you decide? There are certain situations where a muzzle can be very useful and sometimes even a muzzle is required, but there are other scenarios where a muzzle is definitely the wrong choice. How do you know when a muzzle is helpful? What type of muzzle is the right choice for your dog? There are so many questions surrounding this emotionally charged topic. Educate yourself on the when, why and how of a muzzle and always consult a professional dog trainer for advice on your dog’s unique situation.

Why are dog muzzles so polarizing?

Dog muzzles can look controversial. Finally, they have an unfair association with “aggressive” dogs or “attack” dogs. But most dog experts agree that at some point in every dog’s life there can be a situation where an owner needs to use a muzzle. It can be for the safety of the dog, the safety of a person, or both.

For example, if your dog is seriously injured, the risk of a dog bite increases significantly. When in severe pain, dogs may bite when you try to transport them or treat their wounds. And there is no way to predict when such a situation might arise. Therefore, while you never have to rely on a muzzle, it’s a good idea to understand why, when, and how to use a muzzle on your dog. You must also teach and train your dog to tolerate and accept being muzzled. Every dog ​​should learn to love wearing a muzzle so you and your dog don’t get stressed out even more when the day comes when they need to wear one.

When is it appropriate to use a dog muzzle?

Here are some situations that make using a dog muzzle safe and appropriate.

during an emergency

As previously mentioned, an injured or frightened dog is much more likely to bite. Especially if you need to move the dog or treat it in any way. Using a muzzle protects you and anyone helping you from your dog’s uncharacteristic but understandable behavior.

There is a history of biting or a risk of biting

If your dog is aggressive and/or has bitten another dog or person in the past, a muzzle can be used for safety. Even if your dog doesn’t have a history of bites, if you think there is a risk of a dog bite — for example, if your dog jumps and barks at other dogs or people — a muzzle can provide extra security. However, the muzzle doesn’t solve the problem, it simply helps keep everyone safe while you work with a behaviorist, veterinarian and/or dog trainer on behavior change. Your goal should be to change your dog’s behavior and mindset. The muzzle is simply a temporary tool to help you achieve that goal.

There is a risk of biting due to a threatening situation

There may be situations that upset or distress your dog, such as: B. Examinations at the veterinarian. If you are concerned that your dog might bite, temporarily using a muzzle should be considered. But it is also a sign that a behavior change is in order for a long-term solution.

During nursing sessions

If properly desensitized through handling practice (starting in puppyhood helps), most dogs will tolerate or even enjoy grooming procedures such as bathing or nail clipping. However, if you are still training your dog to get used to grooming, a muzzle can be helpful, especially if the dog is unfamiliar with the groomer.

If necessary due to breed-specific legislation

Unfortunately, some states or provinces have breed specific laws (BSL) that require certain so-called “dangerous breeds” to be muzzled when not on private property. (Read more about the AKC’s position on BSL and what we’re doing to offer alternatives.)

When should you not use a muzzle?

It seems obvious, but muzzles are used to prevent dog bites. They are not designed to prevent problem behavior by forcing your dog’s mouth to close. Do not use a dog muzzle for barking, chewing, or other ongoing behavior problems. There are two important reasons for this.

A muzzle should only be used for short periods of time and only under your dog’s supervision. Behavior problems like barking and chewing are inherently ongoing problems, so a muzzle, a tool meant for temporary and short-term use, is not a solution.

Instead, if you want to see progress with these behaviors, you need to exercise consistently and make behavior changes. For example, if your dog barks constantly, there is a reason for it such as separation anxiety, boredom, sounding the alarm, territorial barking, or seeking attention. First determine the cause and, if necessary, fix it with the help of a professional.

Also, never use a muzzle to put your dog in an unnecessarily stressful situation. For example, if your dog doesn’t get along with the dog park, but your friends take all their dogs, a muzzle is not a suitable way for your dog to join the group. If you know something is upsetting your dog, work to change that reaction, don’t muzzle your dog to get through the event. In fact, it can even make the situation worse. Your dog will associate the stressful situation with the muzzle, which will add more fear and anxiety next time.

The same goes for punishment. Never muzzle your dog to teach him a lesson. You won’t do anything to fix the underlying problem, and your dog will relearn to associate the muzzle with punishment. Now, if you try to muzzle your dog in a legitimate situation like an emergency, your dog will become even more anxious and nervous.

What Are the Different Types of Muzzles?

There are two main types of muzzles and by making sure you get the right style and fit you will ensure safe and effective use. You can also make a homemade muzzle in an emergency if there is no other option. Here are some options.

basket muzzle

Basket muzzles look exactly like they sound, a basket that attaches to your dog’s nose and mouth. They can be made of leather, wire, plastic, or even rubber and can be purchased off the shelf or customized to your dog’s anatomy. Their “prison bars” appearance might seem like the least humane choice, but the opposite is true. In fact, many dogs seem to be more comfortable in basket muzzles than in soft muzzles because their mouths are not kept closed. Most species allow dogs to open their mouths to pant, drink, and eat. Some even have slots on the side so you can slide larger treats like sliced ​​hot dogs through the bars for training purposes.

Soft muzzle

Usually made of fabric like nylon or mesh, or sometimes leather, soft muzzles wrap around your dog’s mouth and keep it closed. This design is actually less comfortable for your dog than a basket muzzle and potentially more dangerous. Soft muzzles prevent your dog from panting, which is the only way to disperse heat. Panting is the canine version of sweating, so these muzzles should only be used for very short periods of time and never in hot weather. These muzzles also prevent your dog from barking, drinking or eating. And when your dog can’t eat, it’s almost impossible to use treats as a reward during a behavior modification program or when teaching your dog to love the muzzle. You have to rely on things like squeeze cheese that your dog doesn’t have to chew.

Homemade muzzle

If no other options are available but you need to muzzle your dog, e.g. B. in an emergency or if your dog has been injured, you can make a muzzle from items that you have on hand. This is only recommended if you have no other choice and want your homemade muzzle to be used only temporarily. You can find instructions online on how to improvise a homemade dog muzzle using a roll of gauze, panty hose, or even your dog’s leash, but using such materials isn’t ideal. A better option is to have a proper muzzle in your dog first aid kit.

How do you teach a dog to accept a muzzle?

The first time you put a muzzle on your dog shouldn’t be the first time you’ve had to put one on. When your dog is muzzled for the first time, when it is injured or frightened, it will be much more difficult to put the muzzle on. And it’s almost impossible to use the muzzle in the future since your dog has learned to associate the muzzle with the stressful circumstances. Fortunately, a dog can be trained to accept a muzzle if it is acclimated under low-stress conditions, with a gradual process, and with appropriate rewards.

Beth Nash, AKC Gazette columnist for the Vizsla Club of America has this to say about muzzles and how she taught her first Vizsla, Bartok, to wear one:

“Bartok was afraid of the vet clinic due to a combination of an unstable temper and a series of unfortunate incidents. We had to muzzle him for everyone’s safety. The clinic staff did their best to be gentle and patient, but Bart was seriously stressed and we had to help him.

Over a period of several days, here’s what we did – used small, soft treats and made sure he was comfortable with each step before moving on to the next.

Let him sniff the snout. Give a reward. Repeat a few times. Touch his nose with his snout. Treat. Repeat this until he indicates the muzzle looks interesting in a good way. Hold the snout with one hand and a treat in the other hand so he has to put his nose in the snout to get the treat. Repeat until this step is no big deal. Gently slide the muzzle onto his nose and give him a treat. Remove the snout immediately. Repeat a few times. Put on the muzzle and fasten the buckle. Treat. Remove immediately. Repeat a few times. Put the muzzle on, fasten it, and count slowly to five. Treat. Remove the snout. Each time you muzzle, gradually increase the time the muzzle is on. Hold his collar and give treats.

If we had introduced the muzzle before Bart associated it with sinister things, we could have probably gone through these steps in less than a day – possibly minutes. We’ve done this with every subsequent dog, including rescue dogs we’ve sponsored. If the dog is not interested in treats, you can replace them with other treats. I use verbal praise, but that’s optional.”

On the website of the late Dr. Sophia Yin you will find a great step by step guide on how to train your dog to wear a muzzle. And the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a video showing a dog being presented with a muzzle for the first time.

How to properly fit a muzzle?

Proper fit is key to using a muzzle correctly. Too loose and your dog can remove it; too tight and it interferes with his ability to breathe, gasp or drink and can cause painful chafing. The straps should be fitted so that only one finger can fit between your dog’s head and the strap. It is best to try different sizes and seek advice from a knowledgeable professional trainer or experienced muzzle user. You should also take measurements, especially when ordering online. Even flat-faced dogs like pugs can wear a muzzle, although a customized option may be the best solution. Some common styles are listed below, but there are other types that are particularly suitable for dogs at risk of being bitten or for dogs with different face shapes.

Regardless of the reason for using a muzzle or what type you choose, it’s important to realize that muzzles are not a solution to behavior problems. Canine experts agree that a muzzle is no substitute for consistent, positive training.

Find the best muzzles for your dog

Baskerville Basket dog muzzle

This basket style muzzle is made from durable, strong rubber that is strong enough to provide security and protection, yet soft enough to fit your dog comfortably. It has multiple attachment points to stay in place and the basket construction allows your dog to drink, eat, pant and open their mouth. Offered in six sizes, please check the size chart to choose the right fit for your dog. Price: $14

Soft muzzle – Soft neoprene padding

The neoprene padding prevents chafing and ensures long-lasting comfort for your dog when wearing the muzzle. GoodBoy’s Stay-Fit connection straps and quality buckles keep the muzzle securely in place and ensure a comfortable fit. Your dog can drink and pant. Price: $17

Short snout muzzles

This muzzle is designed for short muzzled dogs such as pugs, bulldogs and french bulldogs. The adjustable nylon strap with quick release buckle is skin-friendly and easy to clean. Price: $15

Why should I muzzle my dog?

If you know that your dog can be aggressive, then it is irresponsible to endanger the health and safety of others by not taking proper precautions. This may not mean that you must muzzle your dog in all situations; only those where there is a potential for injury based on how your dog has reacted in similar situations in the past.

Muzzles can be advisable in situations where the dog might become fearful or defensive, even if the dog has not yet shown aggressive tendencies. Muzzles can be used to test the dog’s response to potentially problematic situations, to introduce dogs that may be aggressive toward humans or other animals, and to temporarily prevent domestic damage in dogs that pick up or destroy surrounding objects . In certain jurisdictions where breeding bans have been introduced or where a dog has been determined to be potentially dangerous, there may be laws mandating the use of a muzzle in public.

Aren’t muzzles cruel?

Muzzles themselves are not cruel, but they can lead to animal welfare problems if not used appropriately. If you follow the guidelines below, your dog should really enjoy wearing a muzzle. The most common mistakes are using a muzzle only when something unpleasant is going to happen to your dog (e.g. when an injection is about to happen), expecting your dog to accept the muzzle immediately, or leaving the muzzle on excessively. However, it is important to realize that a muzzled dog cannot pant effectively and can overheat in hot weather. Therefore, you need to be cautious about the total time a dog is muzzled depending on the weather conditions.

What types of muzzles are there?

There are two common types of muzzles, the basket muzzle and the nylon muzzle. Both have their uses. The basket muzzle gives your dog more freedom to pant and drink when it is properly seated. The nylon muzzle prevents the dog from opening its mouth and can cause overheating if left on the dog for too long as it restricts panting and drinking. Some nylon muzzles have a mesh cover at the end to provide a looser fit and more panting opportunity, while others have a medium-sized opening at the end for the nose and mouth, through which small treats can also be given. However, the dog can still give a small nip with this latter type of muzzle.

How do I train my dog ​​to like wearing a muzzle?

Finding an effective and comfortable muzzle for your dog is important. This may take a little while, but it’s worth looking around. Some muzzles can be easily slipped off by stepping on them with your paw. A properly fitting muzzle should be difficult, if not impossible, for your dog to remove. Some muzzles come with (or can be attached with) a strap that attaches from the muzzle over the dog’s head (through between the eyes) to the dog’s collar so it cannot be pulled off the dog.

“The first time you muzzle your dog

should not be in a situation of conflict or fear.”

When you muzzle your dog for the first time, he should not be in a situation of conflict or fear. Instead, it should be introduced to your dog slowly and gradually while the dog is calm. Show your dog the muzzle, let him sniff to examine and give him a treat before putting the muzzle away. Repeat this process several times. This begins to build a positive association with the muzzle.

Next, hold the muzzle in front of your dog’s face, position the muzzle as you would put it on your dog, put some treats inside and encourage him to take them out. Gradually insert the treats further in so that he sticks his head all the way into his snout.

Then put the muzzle on for a few seconds without fastening it and reward your dog when you take it off. Slowly increase the on time from a few seconds to a minute or more and only reward your dog when he remains calm. Make sure your dog is successful by only putting the muzzle on briefly. You should only remove the muzzle when the dog is calm and still, not when it is upset or pawing. Each time you offer your dog the muzzle, try to put treats inside to ensure a pleasant association with the procedure. When muzzled, you can also offer treats from the side.

“The remaining time

on must be gradually increased.”

Once your dog accepts the muzzle, you can try to attach it. Here, too, the exposure time must be gradually increased. While the muzzle is on the dog, you can reward him with affection or play (if he can be distracted enough so he doesn’t show fear). If your dog enjoys walking or hunting, this may be enough of a distraction to help him acclimate to the muzzle faster. The longer the muzzle is left on, the greater the reward should be when it is taken off, especially if your dog has made no effort to take it off. You should aim to muzzle your dog for about 30 minutes. The goal is to only remove the muzzle when the dog is calm, still and not fighting. If you remove the snout immediately after the dog has fought it or scratched it with its paws, the dog may learn that these actions will result in the snout being removed. The occasional use of treats throughout the process helps many dogs adjust.

Muzzle your dog before going for a walk, but continue to avoid situations that could cause fear, anxiety, or conflict for your dog. If you feel you need to remove the muzzle for a period of time, do so when you go home and get your dog to stay close to foot on the leash after removing the muzzle. Always praise him when you take the muzzle off.

Once this routine is established, your dog should be muzzled before encountering any known conflict or problem situations. Your dog should still be muzzled at other times for play and walks so he doesn’t tease or predict those few necessary opportunities. Some dogs may also wear a head halter under their muzzle for added control.

You should never remove the muzzle if your pet is trying to remove it. A gentle tug on the leash can encourage him to leave him alone. When he relaxes, the snout can be removed. If this happens, you may have been expecting too much, too soon. The important rule is to work at a speed your dog can accept and handle. This can mean that the entire training program can take a few weeks rather than a few days (see Clicker and Target Training, Implementing Desensitization and Counterconditioning, Using Reinforcement and Rewards to Train Your Pet, and Learning, Training, and Behavior Modification). .

Our dogs are beloved family members and important members of the household. We love them very much, so it can be quite worrying when their behavior doesn’t work with our lives. When a dog begins to exhibit aggressive behavior, it’s a problem that needs to be addressed immediately to prevent worse situations from arising in the future.

So what should you do if your dog starts behaving aggressively? We’ve discovered seven proven ways to calm down an aggressive dog. Any of these will work, but which one you choose depends on the situation you are facing.

The 7 Best Ways to Calm Down an Aggressive Dog

1. Keep calm

The most important thing to remember is to keep calm. If your dog is acting aggressively and you respond with anger, tension, loud voice, or anything else that could also be perceived as aggression, you are only adding to the problem.

Here’s an easy way to remember it. Aggression + Aggression = More Aggression.

Our goal is to reduce aggression. So you have to stay calm and composed. Don’t raise your voice or scream and don’t tense up. If you grab your dog’s leash when he begins to become aggressive, he may take this as a sign that he should continue to be aggressive.

Use a calm, calm but firm voice to command your dog when he is aggressive. Keep your body language relaxed so it doesn’t come across as threatening.

Once you show your dog that you are calm and in control of the situation, he is much more likely to calm down and follow suit.

Dogs are very in tune with our emotions and feelings. If you are scared, your dog will sense it and be scared too. If you show your dog that you are confident and fearless, he will also be less anxious and show less aggression.

2. Use a calming supplement

Here’s an easy-to-implement solution for every time your dog starts behaving aggressively. You can simply give them a soothing treat, such as B. the PetHonesty Hemp Calming Soft Chews.

Just give your dog one of these treats and in 20-30 minutes he will be a lot calmer and easier to control.

Of course you want to be careful that your dog does not combine his aggressive behavior with a reward. Instead, try giving your dog one of these calming treats before a situation arises.

This involves learning your dog’s triggers and preparing preemptively by giving them a calming treat before exposing your dog to situations that cause them to react aggressively.

We’ve tested the best calming treats for dogs – check out our top picks here!

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3. Avoid triggering situations

As we just mentioned, triggering situations can cause your dog to react aggressively. This can be strangers in the house, being taken to a new place, loud noises, or crowded, scary places like bus, subway, or beach.

It is important that you know and understand what triggers your dog’s aggressive behavior. Once you identify these triggers, you can take steps to avoid them. If you can prevent your dog from being triggered, you can stop his aggressive behavior.

Of course, there are times when these triggering situations are unavoidable. If that’s the case, you should try suggestions number one and two. Try giving your dog a calming supplement before you put him in a triggering situation. When you’re in the situation, stay completely calm using relaxed body language and a firm but low and calm voice to let your dog know that everything is fine and that you are in control of the situation.

4. Behavior courses

If your dog continues to exhibit aggressive behavior and you are unable to prevent it despite your best efforts, it may be a good idea to enroll your dog in a behavior class.

These classes are led by qualified trainers who will help you and your dog bond through training. Your dog will learn to be more obedient and follow instructions while trusting your leadership more.

By improving the bond and trust between you, your dog will have more confidence and be less afraid in many situations. As a result, they show less aggression and are less likely to resort to aggression in response to fear.

In addition, your dog will learn to obey your commands. This will make them much easier to control in the future should aggressive tendencies show up again.

5. Make your dog feel safe

One of the main reasons dogs act aggressively is fear. When your dog is afraid, aggression is just a natural reaction to try and keep what he’s afraid of at bay.

If you can show your dog that there is no reason to be afraid, the aggression will subside on its own.

You need to show your dog that you are in control of the situation. If you can identify what is causing your dog’s reaction, put yourself between your dog and the source of his fear. For example, if your dog reacts aggressively to a person, stand between your dog and that person. Speak calmly and firmly to your dog while maintaining relaxed but confident body language.

Your dog will quickly notice all of this and realize that there is no reason to be afraid because you have everything under control. In the end, you just have to make your dog feel safe.

6. Socialize your dog

Dogs often become aggressive when introduced to new people, animals, places, or situations. But once your dog is used to the unknown variables, it won’t be as annoying. As previously mentioned, fear is often the main reason dogs show aggression. So if you can familiarize your dog with these unfamiliar situations, he’ll be less likely to respond with aggression.

To do this, introduce your dog to as many people, animals, and places as possible. Bring your dog to your friends house and let your friends bring their pets to your house. Take your dog to the dog park where he can meet lots of people and pets.

The more often you introduce your dog to new situations, the more comfortable he will be in new places with new people. Once your dog is comfortable meeting new people and seeing new places, you will likely stop seeing them react aggressively.

Socialization also works best when implemented early. If you can introduce your dog to new situations at a young age, he will adapt quickly and will never develop the fear of new people and places that many dogs have.

7. Discuss medications with your veterinarian

There are times when these simple steps are not enough. In these cases, you should discuss the medication with your veterinarian. If your dog has an underlying problem that is causing his aggression, medication may be the best way to go.

Remember that you need a professional to diagnose and treat any underlying medical condition. Don’t try to do this yourself and prescribe your puppies medication of your choice.

Conclusion

It can be frightening when our dogs react aggressively and we don’t know why. But if you try these eight proven ways to calm an aggressive dog, you should be able to fix the problem and get your pooch back to a healthy state of mind.

Aggression in dogs can be dangerous. Don’t take chances with your loved ones. If you try these methods and your dog is still aggressive and out of control, you need to seek professional help. And in some cases, it’s best for everyone involved if the dog goes to a home that has the skills and tools necessary to keep him safe and happy.

Selected image source: Piotr Wawrzyniuk, Shutterstock

Jed Dietrich, Esq. is recognized as America’s finest attorney, and he will fight aggressively and doggedly to try to achieve the best possible outcome for people injured in dog bite accidents throughout upstate New York.

The Chow Chow is one of the oldest dog breeds in the world. The breed originated around 206 BC. in China. and was bred specifically for hunting, freight transport, and guard duty. Chow Chows are often characterized by their independent, low-energy, and calm, almost feline demeanor. Still, they are widely considered fierce guard dogs and loyal to their owners. Historically, chow chows guarded Buddhist temples, and many believe that the marble statues that can be seen outside most Chinese temples today are depictions of chow chows. This shows how important they were in the defense and protection of temples and Chinese nobles.

Although chow chows are known to be calm and docile dogs, they are also commonly listed as an aggressive breed, prone to biting people, especially young children. In fact, in New York state, homeowners insurance providers are allowed to exclude coverage for chow chows in dog bite-related accidents, leaving chow chow owners on the hook for paying out claims to victims. Chow Chow owners need to be well informed and take proper care of their Chow Chow to avoid dog bite accidents. Chow Chows require daily physical activity and early socialization with people as by nature these dogs tend to be extremely territorial and wary of strangers on their property. Chow Chows can be very loyal companions and great pets. However, there is an increased risk of a dog bite-related accident if the owner fails to take proper precautions.

Dogs of every breed have a tendency to bite based on their behavioral triggers such as individual personality and socialization with humans and other dogs. Chow Chows are more prone to other factors that could trigger aggressive tendencies. Chow Chows are very independent and are usually loyal or tightly bound to one person. Putting visitors to the owner’s home or other strangers at significant risk of being bitten by a Chow Chow, as their instinct to protect their property and owners could override their otherwise docile personality. If you are visiting the property of a chow chow owner or happen to come across an unfamiliar chow chow, the following tips may help you avoid a dog bite-related accident:

Avoid approaching the dog from behind, as chow chows have deep-set eyes that limit their peripheral vision; Avoid direct eye contact as this may be perceived as a challenge; Don’t play rough. Chow Chows do not take rough or excessive physical contact well; and If the chow chow is chained outside, refrain from approaching it as chow chows are more likely to feel threatened when their movement is restricted.

It’s also important to note that when Chow Chows are being trained or groomed, they should receive verbal corrections to their behavior. This is because chow chows are extraordinarily independent and proud dogs who are likely to bite or attack if hit or if they display overtly aggressive behavior from their owner or a stranger. Inexperienced and uninformed dog owners sometimes resort to physical means to correct behavior problems in dogs, but it’s important to remember that Chow Chows are likely to counter this approach with aggressive behavior. Although chow chows are very independent dogs, they will understand and respond to verbal commands; There should be no need to use physical or aggressive means to correct a Chow Chow.

If you, a loved one, or someone you know has been injured in a dog bite-related accident, call New York Super Attorney Jed Dietrich, Esq. and his team of highly qualified attorneys at 716-839-3939. The Dietrich law firm P.C. is available 24/7 to start a free consultation for your dog bite injury. There is never a charge until we WIN for YOU!

Although the trend of children being bitten by dogs has declined over the past decade, children are still the most commonly bitten and most vulnerable to serious injury from a dog attack. The Humane Society estimates that 51% of all dog bite victims are children, and dog bites are the second most common reason for emergency hospital visits involving children. Because chow chows have introverted personalities, they are more likely to bite children for the following reasons:

Running and screaming children can trigger a chow chow’s hunting instinct; Children can play too roughly; Children may not understand the dog’s aggressive body language; Adults may not pay enough attention to the dog when children are around; and Children’s sudden and rapid movements may startle them.

Children between the ages of 5 and 9 should always be supervised around a Chow Chow, and this is especially true for children the Chow Chow is unfamiliar with. A child should be introduced to the chow chow slowly while the dog is on a leash. A child may need to have several supervised dog encounters before becoming comfortable around the child.

HAVE YOU OR A DEAR PERSON BE INJURED IN A CHOW BITING-RELATED ACCIDENT IN BUFFALO, NEW YORK? CALL ANY DIETRICH, ESQ. AND HIS TOP RATING AND HIGHLY EXPERIENCED TEAM OF PROFESSIONAL DOG ​​BIT INJURY ATTORNEYS IN NEW YORK AT 716-839-3939 TO GET THE HELP YOU NEED NOW!

Dogs that naturally tend to be docile, like chow chows, still retain the ability to be aggressive at any time without warning. Accidents involving dog bites can result in serious injury to the victim. In recent years, 893 claims have been filed in New York alone, and insurers have paid out around $49.8 million to compensate victims. It is crucial to obtain competent and experienced legal representation in order to obtain financial compensation for medical bills and other hardships. By contacting Jed Dietrich, Esq. To process your claim, make sure you are represented by a dedicated and experienced personal injury attorney who will fight aggressively to obtain monetary compensation for your dog bite injury.

With years of experience handling personal injury claims in the state of New York and recognition from numerous awards throughout his career, including securing at least $1,000,000 or more 38 times for his clients, Jed Dietrich, Esq. and his team of highly talented and determined attorneys will help you through every step of your dog bite-related claim. Anyone who has suffered an injury, no matter how minor, from a dog bite may be entitled to financial compensation and should immediately contact Dietrich Kanzlei P.C. and nationally recognized Best Attorney of America, Jed Dietrich, Esq., to help you recover compensation for your dog bite injury claim.

Call the Dietrich law firm P.C. immediately at 716-839-3939 so our aggressive, persistent, hard-working personal injury attorneys can fight to get the best outcome for your personal injury claim in Buffalo, New York. We’re available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and there’s never a charge until we WIN for you!

How to keep your chow chow happy

Introduction – If you are a parent of a Chow Chow you must be well informed about this breed. This information will help you take good care of Chow Chow. This is a small and one of the oldest dog breeds. They come from the working dog breed group. Chow chow resembles a bear. You look cute and adorable. But appearances are deceptive, because they are not really the ideal cuddle friends. They don’t hug too much. They are naturally calm and alert. They are very independent and can become suspicious of strangers. He can be distant at times. Chow Chows have deep-set eyes and a large head, making their personality very unique and impressive. They prove to be very faithful companions for life.

Training – Training your dog to become social is important. A well-trained Chow Chow will be able to spend more time with your family and friends. Training should begin at the time a chow chow puppy is brought home. Human touch is very important for a Chow puppy. Hold him and pet him as often as possible. The puppy may initially cry and whine at your touch, but they will soon get used to it. If the puppy is a bit older, take him away and allow strangers to hold and touch him. Be patient with yourself and with your Chow puppy. He needs time to socialize and become a friendly dog.

Diet – Proper nutrition for your dog is important to their health and well-being. Each race has different requirements. Many varieties of dog food are available in the market. You can choose the best dog food. It is not recommended to feed meat for chewing. This can cause some problems, feed them eggs and rice and possibly a small portion of meat. Rice will do wonders for their fur. Feed them once or twice a day. Make sure your dog always has clean water available.

Grooming and Coat – In order to keep your dog clean and healthy, proper grooming is essential. Good hygiene is important. After all, the dogs stay with you in your house, so they should be kept clean at all times. Grooming is not just about grooming. It’s the dog’s overall well-being. Brush your dog regularly. It will remove the scale coat and dust. Wash the brush regularly. Choose the right brush. Chow, like other dogs, sheds hair twice a year. During this time, pay special attention to him. Keep his teeth and ears clean. Give him his bath when he gets too dirty or smelly. Don’t bathe him too often. Two to three times a year is sufficient. Use good shampoo and conditioner.

feed how much Feed your dog well, but never too much. A chow should be fed twice a day.

With their stately stance, blue-black tongue, and lion-like mane, a Chow Chow is unmistakable as they strut down the street. These distinctive dogs are easy to spot from a mile away, and once you get to know them, their personality traits are just as distinctive.

Calm and feline, chow chows are an often misunderstood, independent, ancient breed of dog that originated in China thousands of years ago. And as Chow owners will tell you, once you’ve lived the Chow lifestyle, it’s hard to go back.

As magnetic as they are, these dogs require special grooming thanks to their unique personalities, thick double coat, and short muzzle. Here’s everything you need to know about living the good life with the beautiful, proud Chow Chow.

The dignified, distinctive look of the Chow Chow

Chow Chows are indeed a distinctive breed, especially when it comes to their physical appearance. Several characteristics set the Chow apart from other dogs: its blue-black tongue; the pendulum-like swing of their straight hind legs, which gives them their characteristic stilted gait; her short snout; and their small, triangular, rounded-tipped ears that bob with every step.

They are called little lions or the lion race for a reason; They have extremely thick double coats that come in two varieties – smooth and rough – giving them a fluffy, oversized appearance. And while all dogs have loose skin around their necks, Chow Chows have a particularly loose neck fur surrounded by a mane of hair, which adds to the lion-like appearance.

Combine their impressive mane with their deep-set, almond-shaped eyes, and it’s no wonder Chows are often described as sinister, snobbish, and intimidating — at least by those who don’t have the pleasure of spending time with them.

Basic chow chow facts

Despite their large presence, chow chows are medium-sized dogs, weighing between 45 and 70 pounds as adults, depending on gender and breed. They average 17 to 20 inches tall at the shoulder – although their deep, barrel-shaped chests and impressive double coats give the illusion of a taller physique.

Chows come in two distinct coat varieties: smooth and rough, the latter being the traditional (and much more common) fluffy coat that most people associate with chows. They are also available in different colors: black, red, cinnamon, cream and blue. There are also variations within each color; For example, red chows can range in color from light fawn to a deep, almost burnt orange.

The Story of the Chow Chow

Not only does the lion-like dog look unique, it is also one of the oldest known breeds in the world. Originating in China 2,000 to 3,000 years ago, they were favorites of kings and regulars alike. According to one myth, a certain Emperor in the Tang Dynasty was such a fan that he owned and bred over 5,000 Chows, all fed the finest food and given a royal escort.

Myth aside, Chows were used as guard dogs, companions, working dogs on farms, sled pullers, and even war and hunting dogs for thousands of years before migrating west. The chow chow first came west from China on a merchant ship in the 18th century and ended up in England.

In China, they are called songshi quan, or “swollen lion dog.” So why the name “chow-chow”? One theory: When imported by traders, they were listed as “chow-chow,” a term for mixed meats brought from the East to sell in various markets.

Despite the dubious origin of this breed’s western name, with staying power they became an instant sensation. Famous fans over the years have included Queen Victoria (whose chow chow pup is said to have inspired the creation of the first teddy bear), Sigmund Freud, and more recently Martha Stewart.

The chow’s aloof, independent personality

Some of the most common Chow descriptions you’ll hear are aloof, independent, feline, and quiet. Behind these labels is the fact that chows are unlikely to be lap dogs, nor will they love everyone they meet. If you’re looking for a cuddle buddy and a dog park greeter, chows may not be the right dog for you. (Though many chow mixes are perfectly spoonable, depending on their mix.)

But they are fiercely loyal to their families, calm—generally only barking to be alert—adaptable, and even playful. It’s not uncommon for Chow owners to describe their canines as mischievous.

However, this spitefulness and independence can become a problem for people unfamiliar with a Chow’s needs. These are not dogs to be left to their own devices when it comes to training. Loyal to the point of territoriality, any responsible Chow owner must work with their dog once they are puppies, socializing them with strangers, other dogs, and small pets like cats.

“Your Chowness appears to be a happy loner and really not interested in socializing with other dogs or children. She always positions herself outside or by windows as a sentinel, watching over the welfare of her two-legged pack.” – Elizabeth, mother of chow mix Leila

Are chows really aggressive?

One of the most common questions asked of chow owners is, “Are they aggressive?” or “Aren’t they vicious?” Or: “Don’t they bite?” Chows are also regularly targeted by breed bans and are even banned from insurance companies that cover homeowners and renters insurance.

As with so many breed-banned and allegedly dangerous dogs — pit bulls, dobermans, rottweilers, and more — the chow chow’s reputation arises from a place of misunderstanding.

Chow Chows have a 71.7 percent pass rate from the American Temperament Test Society for canine temperament, which tests shyness, aggressiveness, friendliness, and the ability to distinguish between a threatening and a non-threatening situation. Compare the Chow to the Dachshund, which has a 69.4% success rate, or the Shiba Inu, which has a 67.9% success rate – two popular breeds that are not considered aggressive or dangerous – and the idea of ​​the Chow -Chow as a dangerous breed is beginning to reverse.

What chows are is demanding. They are intelligent, independent dogs with boundaries that protect them, which is why it’s important to re-emphasize the importance of training and socialization from an early age. These are not dogs that listen to anyone; the relationship between dog and owner must be secure, with the owner in firm command.

Many Chows live happily with other dogs, children, and even small pets like cats. As with all dogs, breed can only tell us so much about our dogs personality; They all need special care and attention once we bring them home.

“She is the absolute sweetest, most soulful and most sensitive dog in the world. People fight over who gets to keep her when I travel… She’s pure love.” – Nicole, mother of Chow Mix Tallulah Belle

Taking care of a chow

Some dogs are relatively low maintenance, with simple grooming routines and obedience. Chow Chows are not those dogs. Grooming a Chow Chow means extensive training, grooming, and attention.

While these aren’t Velcro dogs in the traditional sense—they don’t need constant touch from you, and in fact they often prefer to sit and watch you from a distance—they do like to be close to their humans. So when adopting a food, make sure your lifestyle is conducive to spending quality time with your pooch.

“Milo was very easy to train. He did NOT pee in his crate or anywhere near his food or bed and was always asking to go outside by week 6. He also behaves like a cat (I swear he thinks he is) – lazy, aloof… catches flies and climbs trees.” — Alexandra, mother of Milo the Chow

Training a chow chow

One of the cornerstones of chow chow grooming is training. Chows have a gift for making people believe they need to earn their dog’s respect—because with Chows, you do. Chows are headstrong. That said, to have a well-behaved fodder, you should strive to set strong boundaries, lead with confidence, and not allow him to run the house. Chows are not for beginners; prospective owners should take the time to educate themselves about training a dog that is not as eager to please as other breeds.

From the moment you bring them home, you should start exercising every day,

A few hints:

Start socializing right away and introduce them to all sorts of people, small animals, and new environments. The period between birth and 16 weeks of age is considered the golden window of socialization and training and has an outsized impact on a puppy’s lifelong behavioral patterns.

Get them used to the care and handling, practice daily brushing, give them regular baths, and create positive associations with the care and regular handling they can expect from veterinarians and other pet professionals throughout the life of your food.

Although chows are known for being clean, they start potty training right away. Create a specific spot in your yard or outside area where they should go to the bathroom and reinforce that this is the potty area by taking them there every few hours to potty.

Begin with the basic commands: sit, stay, and lie down. Most puppies can understand these commands by 7-8 weeks of age.

To strengthen boundaries and good manners, have them sit before meals.

Since chow chows are generally not eager to please, reinforce the importance of listening by making training sessions interesting and quality. Use praise and quality treats, and keep sessions short to get their attention.

Grooming a Chow

When you adopt a Chow Chow, grooming is one of the biggest chores you are willing to take on. They are beautiful lion-like dogs, but it takes a lot of time and effort to maintain their beauty.

Whether they have rough or smooth coats, Chows need daily or almost daily brushing to keep their signature double coat free of mats. Also, while chows are low in odor, they need to be bathed at least every six weeks to keep their coat and skin — which is buried beneath all that fur — healthy.

Finally, due to their unique shape, Chows should be professionally groomed at least quarterly, if not more often.

Common Health Issues for the Chow Chow

While Chows are a generally healthy breed and can live anywhere from 12 to 15 years, they are not without health challenges. Some of the conditions they are prone to are as follows:

Bloat/Gastric Dilation-Volvulus: As deep-chested dogs, Chows are at increased risk for bloat (GDV), a number of related conditions in which the stomach becomes distended as it fills with gas, and when the gas-filled stomach then twists or twists and impedes blood flow. Symptoms include unproductive gagging (when your dog pretends to throw up but doesn’t produce anything), a bloated, tender abdomen, labored breathing, and even collapse. It is a medical emergency which, if not treated promptly, can result in death. However, you can reduce the risk of bloating by making sure your dog isn’t eating too quickly, whether by splitting meals or using a slow feeding method like a puzzle bowl. Your vet may also recommend a surgical procedure called gastropexy if this condition is a serious concern.

Entropion: Due to their deep-set eyes and squished faces, Chows can cope with entropion, or curled eyelashes, which can lead to scratched corneas and permanent damage if not recognized and treated early enough. The main symptoms of entropion are excessive tearing, squinting, discharge of mucus, and sensitivity to light. Your veterinarian may suggest a surgical correction that involves rolling the eyelid outward so the lashes don’t touch the surface of the cornea. While lubricating eye drops and topical antibiotics are sometimes prescribed, they are not recommended as a lifelong solution.

Heatstroke: Chow chows are doubly vulnerable to heatstroke thanks to their extremely thick double coat and short snout, both traits that give them their distinctive looks but make it difficult for them to stay cool in hotter temperatures. It’s absolutely essential to keep your food out of the heat, limit walks or other activities in any weather above 72 degrees, and ensure they have access to water and a cool place to rest at all times.

Hip and Elbow Dysplasia: Chows can be prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, a condition in which the ball of the hip doesn’t fit properly in the joint. This can lead to or worsen arthritis and other degenerative joint problems. Since the condition is most commonly related to growth rate, weight, and environmental factors, it’s important to ensure your Chow puppy is growing at a healthy rate and maintaining a healthy weight. Pay close attention to the gait of your feed – “bunny hops” during the walk can be a sign of problems – its ability to lie down and get up again and possible tenderness around the joints.

Patellar Luxation: This is a condition where a dog’s kneecap dislocates. It can be a congenital condition or develop later in life. Symptoms to look out for include limping, or your dog lifting one leg and appearing to hop a few steps, then kicking one leg out to bring the knee back into position. Severe patellar dislocation may require surgery.

Feeding chow chow

While relatively healthy, chows are also prone to obesity, allergies, and bloat — all challenges that can either be made better or worse by eating what, when, and how much.

Just a few pounds can severely impact your dog’s quality of life: Research shows that not only is obesity endemic among American dogs, with 56% of dogs in the US being considered overweight or obese, but it also increases the risk of cancer and shortens their lifespan. Feeding too much or highly processed foods can lead to weight gain, which can contribute to the arthritic pain caused by hip dysplasia, a common condition in Chows.

A fresh feeding schedule makes it easy to give your feeder pre-portioned, healthy meals tailored to their age, size, activity level and weight.

And since allergies are common in chows, it’s a good idea to be aware of exactly what’s in their food – something that’s difficult to achieve with kibble, as it often contains ingredients that aren’t on the label are listed.

A healthy diet is the best way to support the health and happiness of your forage – along with plenty of safe exercise and a loving family to take care of.