Best Thermometer For Bearded Dragon? Quick Answer

I’ve heard many different temperatures for the high and low ranges for a bearded dragon. what is the real truth

Q: I have heard many different temperatures for the high and low ranges for a bearded dragon and I want to do what is best for my yearling bear, Hemingway. what is the real truth

A: While Beardies can withstand a wide range of temperatures, I always say this to owners. The focal sun hotspot should be between 100 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit. If your beardie isn’t sitting on the hot spot and gaping with his mouth, then it probably isn’t hot enough. Keep in mind that the overall habitat may not be as hot as the basking area, but the hot spot is necessary for proper digestion.

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For the rest of the habitat I recommend 76 degrees F on the cool end and the hot end should be around 86 degrees F. At night, the temperature should be on the cool side in the low to mid 70’s.

You can go back through the archived questions for more detailed information on bear husbandry on this site.

Monitoring safe conditions for pets

Maintaining the right environmental conditions and knowing the safe temperature for pets is important if you want your pets to be happy and healthy. Whether it’s dogs, cats, fish, birds, reptiles, small mammals, or even horses, the wrong conditions can lead to disease, poor health, or worse. Depending on the animal, it can be very sensitive to temperature and even humidity. And if your pet lives primarily outdoors, it’s important to keep a close eye on weather conditions to make sure they’re safe. The best thing to do is educate yourself on the specific environmental conditions your pets need, and then monitor those conditions closely with your own pet monitoring equipment.

Safe conditions for reptiles and amphibians

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Depending on the species, reptiles and amphibians can be sensitive to factors such as UV and UVB light, photoperiod, water pH (for semi-aquatic species) and of course temperature and humidity. A trait of reptiles is that they are “cold-blooded,” meaning they cannot control their body temperature. Reptile temperatures are usually close to the climate temperature in their environment.

solution

Check if your pet is a tropical or temperate type. Then fully research and care for the environmental requirements of this species. Some species require conditions that are not considered normal for most reptiles and/or amphibians, so do not settle on a one size fits all recommendation. It’s important to research factors for your particular species including ball python temperature, ball python care, tortoise care, iguana care, bearded dragon care, etc. Make sure you do your duty of care and learn about your pet’s care requirements as an illness or even The Death can occur if a habitat is not properly established or cared for.

Reptile Care Tips: The recommended conditions listed below are guidelines for the safety of your pet. ALWAYS check with your veterinarian for specific temperature and humidity settings for your pet. Learn how the Land Hermit Crab Owners Society is using AcuRite sensors to protect their hermit crabs.

Safe Ball Python Care: Safe humidity conditions for ball pythons are between 50-60% relative humidity. Safe temperatures for ball pythons are between 26 and 27 degrees Celsius. The ambient temperature should never drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). Ball pythons also require a basking area, which should be kept at 31-36 degrees Celsius.

Safe humidity conditions for ball pythons are between 50 and 60% relative humidity. Safe temperatures for ball pythons are between 26 and 27 degrees Celsius. The ambient temperature should never drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). Ball pythons also require a basking area, which should be kept at 31-36 degrees Celsius. Safe Bearded Dragon Care: Safe humidity conditions for bearded dragons are between 20-35% RH. Safe temperatures for bearded dragons are between 24 and 29 degrees Celsius during the day and between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius at night. Bearded dragons also require a basking area, which should be kept between 32 and 46 degrees Celsius.

Safe humidity conditions for bearded dragons are between 20 and 35% relative humidity. Safe temperatures for bearded dragons are between 24 and 29 degrees Celsius during the day and between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius at night. Bearded dragons also require a basking area, which should be kept between 32 and 46 degrees Celsius. Safe Iguana Care: Safe humidity conditions for iguanas are between 65-75% relative humidity. Safe temperature conditions for iguanas are between 29 and 35 degrees Celsius during the day. The nighttime temperature should never drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). As with many reptiles, iguanas like to have a basking area that can typically be kept warm up to 49 degrees Celsius.

Safe humidity conditions for iguanas are between 65 and 75% relative humidity. Safe temperature conditions for iguanas are between 29 and 35 degrees Celsius during the day. The nighttime temperature should never drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). As with many reptiles, iguanas like to have a basking area that can typically be kept warm up to 49 degrees Celsius. Safe Leopard Gecko Care: Safe humidity conditions for leopard geckos are between 20-35% RH. A safe leopard gecko temperature should be 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit (24-29 degrees Celsius) during the day and 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degrees Celsius) at night. Leopard geckos also require a basking area, which should be kept between 32 and 46 degrees Celsius.

Safe humidity conditions for leopard geckos are between 20 and 35% relative humidity. A safe leopard gecko temperature should be 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit (24-29 degrees Celsius) during the day and 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degrees Celsius) at night. Leopard geckos also require a basking area, which should be kept between 32 and 46 degrees Celsius. Safe Turtle Care: Safe temperatures for turtles are generally between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 28 degrees Celsius). the daytime. The nighttime temperature should be kept between 21-24 degrees Celsius (70-75°F), while a sun temperature of 35-38 degrees Celsius (95-100 degrees Fahrenheit) is recommended. IMPORTANT: Tortoise species from different geographic regions have different needs in terms of humidity and may vary in terms of temperature as well. Research your pet’s needs thoroughly before setting up a habitat. In Charleston, South Carolina, the Turtle Survival Alliance monitors temperature in turtle enclosures using AcuRite Spotcheck sensors and refrigerator temperature and humidity sensors to provide turtle comfort and safety.

Safe temperatures for turtles are generally between 24 and 28 degrees Celsius during the day. The nighttime temperature should be kept between 21-24 degrees Celsius (70-75°F), while a sun temperature of 35-38 degrees Celsius (95-100 degrees Fahrenheit) is recommended. IMPORTANT: Tortoise species from different geographic regions have different needs in terms of humidity and may vary in terms of temperature as well. Research your pet’s needs thoroughly before setting up a habitat. In Charleston, South Carolina, the Turtle Survival Alliance monitors temperature in turtle enclosures using AcuRite Spotcheck sensors and refrigerator temperature and humidity sensors to provide turtle comfort and safety. Safe Turtle Care: The recommendations for turtles are slightly different than their counterparts. In general, safe temperatures for turtles during the day are between 21 and 29 degrees Celsius. Nighttime temperatures should be kept between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (16 to 21 degrees Celsius), while a sun temperature of 95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (35 to 38 degrees Celsius) is recommended. IMPORTANT: Certain tortoise species (like the red-footed tortoise) may require humid conditions, while others (like the Greek and Russian tortoises) require a dry environment. Research your pet’s needs thoroughly before setting up a habitat. In Charleston, South Carolina, the Turtle Survival Alliance monitors temperature in turtle enclosures using AcuRite Spotcheck sensors and refrigerator temperature and humidity sensors to provide turtle comfort and safety.

AcuRite Reptile Thermostat:

Monitor temperature and humidity conditions with a Reptile thermostat

Position an AcuRite room monitor near the terrarium, tank, or cage to track ambient air temperature and humidity.

Use a monitor with a wired spot check sensor positioned inside the enclosure to view air temperature/humidity and conditions on a heating rock or your pet’s favorite spot.

Use a Home Environment Display to conveniently view conditions measured by multiple monitors and sensors in and around your home. Set alarms on the display to warn you of dangerous conditions. These can include dangerously low or high air temperature, humidity, or water temperature.

to conveniently view conditions measured by multiple monitors and sensors in and around your home.

Learn more about safe pet habitats

There are many great resources out there for maintaining a healthy pet habitat. Here are a few examples:

Petco offers a number of guidelines for creating a habitat for a variety of pets:

PetSmart offers a resource page organized by species with information on reptiles, nutrition and more:

The Humane Society offers these guidelines for building a shelter for outdoor cats:

Choose the pet you want to keep healthy and happy:

To ensure your little boy or girl’s living space is as suitable for them as possible, you need to know the temperature.

While it’s fairly simple, things get a bit more complicated as you need to know the temperature for a few separate areas of the enclosure, as well as at different times of the day.

You need to be aware of the temperature of your bearded dragon’s basking area and their cool side of the enclosure. You also need to be aware of the nighttime temperature of the habitat.

Since there are several things to consider, it’s super important not to trust any old nasty thermometer and instead rely on one of the best thermometers for bearded dragons!

In a hurry or just curious?

✅ These specific thermometers and hygrometers are the most popular among bearded dragon owners and come in a variety of styles and price ranges!

Best Bearded Dragon Thermometer: Raytek Non-Contact Gun

Undoubtedly, one of the best thermometers for bearded dragons will be the Raytek non-contact thermometer gun.

Although a bit pricey, this temperature gun makes checking the temperature in your dragon’s basking spot, the cool side of the enclosure, and just about anywhere else a breeze!

Unlike cheaper thermometers, this Raytek has temperature readings that are 98% accurate to ensure you never risk compromising temperatures in your bear’s habitat.

Finally, with this gun you don’t have to wait like regular probe thermometers (some of which take up to 45 minutes!) to get a definitive temperature reading.

I highly recommend you buy this Raytek timer gun simply because it has always worked for me and honestly saved me a lot of time while giving me a great chunk of soul.

However, if you can’t afford that, check out some of the other recommendations below for which thermometer to use for your bearded dragon’s tank!

More great bearded dragon thermometer options

Check out some of the thermometer options below that will help you measure the temperature in your bearded dragon’s tank without breaking the bank!

These thermometers are the less fancy kind, consisting of a probe with a digital display. They’re not necessarily as accurate as the gun above, but can get the job done if you’re short on cash.

Zoo Med Digital Thermometer

This thermometer has a 39 inch probe that can actually be submerged in water (perfect for checking bath temperature!) making it great for different types of reptile enclosures.

You can also simply attach the digital reader to the outside of a glass terrarium using a suction cup for consistent temperature readings!

Exo Terra Thermometer/Hygrometer Combo Reader

If you are looking for a device that will measure both temperature and humidity in your bearded dragon’s enclosure, then look no further!

This one-button combo reader features a remote sensor that detects both the temperature and humidity in your bearded dragon’s habitat. Also, this tool comes with a hook and clasp for easy hanging.

Placement of the thermometer in a bearded dragon enclosure

If you didn’t purchase a tempering gun, you’ll need to move the probe on your thermometer a little to get all the accurate temperatures of your bearded dragon’s enclosure.

For example, you need to place the probe in its sunning place for that temperature, and also on the cool side of the case for that temperature.

Keep in mind that for most thermometers, the probe will take a solid 45 minutes or so to get an accurate reading, so just let it be.

Your bearded dragon probably won’t pay any attention to it, and if it does?

Just take them to the perfect playtime while you find out the temperatures of their enclosure.

If you find that the temperature of the enclosure is too low, a good quality reptile heating pad will fix this in no time!

The best infrared thermometer for bearded dragons

The best infrared thermometer for reptiles is without a doubt Zoo Med’s Repti Temp Digital Infrared Thermometer as it is super easy to use, compact and extremely accurate and can take the temperature of practically everything in your bear’s tank… including him!

With excellent reviews online, this infrared thermometer is definitely the way to go.

The best hygrometers to measure humidity in a bearded dragon enclosure

Ideally, to keep your bearded dragon comfortable, you should aim for a humidity level of around 40% and certainly no less than 30% and no more than 50%.

This will help them feel comfortable in their enclosure and prevent them from getting sick.

Wireless thermometer and hygrometer from SensorPush

One of the most advanced, compact and reliable hygrometers is this wireless one from SensorPush that can sit discreetly in your bearded dragon’s enclosure.

This hygrometer actually connects to your iPhone or Android and informs you of both temperature and humidity in REAL TIME! Pretty awesome if you ask me.

It also seamlessly tracks both readings throughout the day, so you can keep an eye on both humidity and temperature at all times.

And while this product is a little more expensive, it’s a great investment for anyone who is very serious about business and wants to make sure their bearded dragon has a comfortable environment to call home.

Exo Terra Thermometer/Hygrometer Combo Reader

If you can’t afford the SensorPush hygrometer, don’t worry. The Exo Terra one mentioned above is a great alternative for a lot less.

Note, however, that this one is not wireless and requires some probe displacement and waiting time to get both accurate temperature and humidity readings.

It’s less convenient than the Sensorpush option, but cheaper.

Learn more about the Exo Terra Hygrometer HERE

Conclusion

A hygrometer is an essential item for a bearded dragon owner as maintaining the correct humidity level is vital to ensure your bearded dragon is not only comfortable but healthy too!

If you have a hygrometer you swear by, leave it in the comments section below!

Have you seen these bearded dragon articles?

In addition to the right humidity, the ideal temperature for a reptile terrarium is crucial. Reptiles, amphibians and special animals come from all over the world and are subject to their very own temperature requirements. Today we’re going to look at the do’s, don’ts, myths, and mistakes of getting the terrarium temperature right.

Cooling temperature VS ambient temperature

This one is large and often confused. First, let’s look at the difference between the two. The heat temperature refers to the surface temperature, i. H. the temperature of a specific radius or object in the tank. This is the area where heliothermic and sun-loving diurnal reptiles spend much of their day soaking up the sun’s rays. Ambient temperature is the air temperature of the terrarium. You probably have an analogue thermometer on one of the walls in your terrarium. These are ONLY used to measure ambient or “air” temperature. The only way to accurately measure soak temperature is with either a temperature gun or a digital thermometer/thermostat probe. Solar bulbs, ceramic heaters, and heat pads are used to create sunspots in the tank. Confusing these 2 types of tank temperatures can be fatal to your reptile.

Installing a thermostat

A thermostat is your best line of defense against poor temperature control. A thermostat regulates the temperature of your sunbathing area. Installing a thermostat in your terrarium is very simple, but it is often done wrong!

Step 1: Place Your Probe: Improper placement of the thermostat probe is often done incorrectly. The probe should be placed directly below your heat source (above the heat source if using a heating pad). Probes can be attached to branches or surfaces with cable ties or electrical tape.

Improper placement of the thermostat probe is often done incorrectly. The probe should be placed directly below your heat source (above the heat source if using a heating pad). Probes can be attached to branches or surfaces with cable ties or electrical tape. Step 2: Connect your heat source: After placing your probe in the right place, connect your heat source to the thermostat. Pisces recommends: Exo Terra Ceramic Heat Emitter OR Exo Terra Heat Mat. If your heat source is also your light source and connected to your thermostat, the light will flicker on and off. In this case, use a temperature gun or digital thermometer probe instead of a thermostat to accurately measure the soaking temperature.

After placing your probe in the right place, connect your heat source to the thermostat. If your heat source is also your light source and connected to your thermostat, the light will flicker on and off. In this case, use a temperature gun or digital thermometer probe instead of a thermostat to accurately measure the soaking temperature. Step 3: Program your thermostat: With the probe and heat source in place, it’s time to program your thermostat. Remember that we have our probe directly in contact with our heat patch surface, so we program our desired heat temperature. For example, a bearded dragon needs an ambient temperature of 85°F and a sunspot of 110°F, we program our thermostat to maintain a temperature of 110°F.

Creating a temperature gradient

Now let’s examine our ambient temperature. No matter how hot or cold your reptile likes the ambient temperature, there must always be a so-called temperature gradient. This means that the air temperature at one end of the tank is warmer than the other. If you have an underground tank, your temperature change will occur between each side of the tank. If your tank is tree-like, your gradient will be from above and below. Reptiles and amphibians are cold-blooded and use this ambient temperature gradient to control their own internal temperature. A temperature gradient is extremely important as it prevents your pet from getting cold or overheating. Simply place your heat sources to one side of the tank to create a thermal gradient. Never place all heat sources in the center or have two heat sources on each side of the tank. If your tank is a tree, make sure you have the right wattage for your heat source so the tank is warmest at the top and cools closer to the bottom. Your analog ambient thermometer should be placed on the cooler side of the gradient, but still close to the middle.

night temperature

When the lights go out, we want a drop in temperature. A good thermostat can have a programmable cycle, allowing you to regulate temperatures at night. An average nighttime drop in temperature is between 5°F and 10°F. Measure the ambient temperature on the “cool” side of your terrarium. Use this temperature as a basis for your nighttime ambient temperature. Desert lizards like a uromastyx need a heat source throughout the night. That’s why lightless heat sources, side by side with a quality thermostat, are the solution to perfect tank temperatures! Pisces recommends: Zoo-Med Reptitemp Digital Thermostat.

Why is a hygrometer necessary in the terrarium?

Reptiles are cold-blooded (hot-blooded) animals. This means that their body temperature is close to the ambient temperature. Therefore, they often react sensitively to unfamiliar climatic conditions. Depending on the type of reptile, a certain humidity and temperature in the terrarium is necessary, as many absorb it through the skin or lungs. Air in the terrarium that is too dry can therefore cause life-threatening diseases such as pneumonia. Therefore, a hygrometer should be installed in the terrarium, because it shows the prevailing humidity inside. In this way you can always maintain the climatic balance for your animal, which is very important for the health of your animal.

Depending on the type of reptile and the terrarium, the necessary humidity varies. In the aqua terrarium, for example, the water content predominates, which is why it is particularly suitable for amphibians, water-loving reptiles or frogs and turtles. Accordingly, the humidity in this terrarium is higher. The forest terrarium, which is a preferred habitat for lizards, tarantulas or insects, should also have higher humidity. It gets really humid and sometimes foggy in the rainforest or tropical terrarium, which also houses tarantulas, lizards, frogs and snakes. In a dry, desert or stone terrarium, the humidity inside should be kept correspondingly lower in order to keep lizards, tarantulas or scorpions in a species-appropriate manner.

Choose a high-quality hygrometer for your terrarium that accurately displays the prevailing humidity for the sensitive animals. A thermometer is also required for the correct temperature in the terrarium, as this is almost as important for the health of your reptiles. A thermo-hygrometer gives you both values ​​in one device.

Which hygrometer should be installed at which point in the terrarium?

With hygrometers or thermo-hygrometers you have the choice between the digital and the analogue version. Digital hygrometers usually have a remote sensor that is attached to the terrarium with a suction cup. The hygrometer itself remains outside the terrarium and receives the corresponding values.

Analogue hygrometers, on the other hand, have to be attached directly to the inside of the terrarium using adhesive strips on the back. The advantage of analog hygrometers in the terrarium is that they usually provide more accurate readings. The values ​​can also be read easily due to the large digits.

When installing a hygrometer in a terrarium, you should make sure that it is neither too close to pools or waterfalls nor too close to the ground. The humidity shown on the hygrometer would be too high in the water’s sphere of influence, even if you have reptiles that require a moist soil. Therefore, the hygrometer should be placed in the terrarium where the influences on the measuring device are least, i.e. not near water or heat lamps. In this way you prevent falsified values ​​and accordingly do not endanger the well-being of your reptiles.

Buy analogue hygrometers for your terrarium from FISCHER

Take care of the health of your ever-changing, sensitive reptiles and ensure a species-appropriate temperature and humidity in your terrarium. The analogue hygrometers from FISCHER provide you with precise values ​​at all times. In our online shop we also offer thermometers that show you the equally vital temperature inside the terrarium. In addition, you can also select our thermo-hygrometer in the online shop, which will show you both values ​​in one measuring device.

Do you have questions about our high-quality, precision-mechanical measuring devices in the FISCHER online shop? Then please contact us at any time! We advise you and take care of your concerns.

Bearded dragons are cold-blooded animals and need targeted heating to regulate their body temperature. These reptiles have a very low tolerance to temperature changes and can go into shock if not heated properly. So how long can bearded dragons go without heat?

How long can bearded dragons go without heat?

Bearded dragons can survive up to 24 hours without heat if the temperature is at least 20°C. If the lizard goes too long without an external source of heat, it becomes inactive and its digestion slows down significantly.

Bearded dragons require a heating mechanism in their enclosure to regulate their body temperature. It is best to provide heat with a ceramic radiant heater or a UVB lamp.

I’ve discussed several ideas for providing warmth to your bearded dragon even during a power outage. With the tips, you can keep your reptile pet warm and active even when winter temperatures drop and the power goes out.

Will a bearded dragon die if it gets cold?

Bearded dragons rely on external heat sources to stay active and perform their bodily functions. Without heat for more than 24 hours, the reptiles’ vital body processes are disrupted and the bearded dragons die from too much cold and an inability to move and eat.

Depending on the situation, location or general climatic conditions, this process can take between 24 hours and a few days. If the lizard is in an arid habitat with little to no vegetation, it can take about 24 hours for the animal to die as a result of extreme cold.

However, if your lizard lives at higher elevations with more protection from wind gusts and precipitation, this period can be extended by up to two days. Bottom Line: Don’t leave your bearded dragon alone at home if you expect extreme weather conditions.

What is the lowest temperature a bearded dragon can survive?

The lowest temperature that bearded dragons can survive for a short time is around 65°F. When it drops below 65°F, the lizard shows inactivity and lethargy due to the extreme cold. If it is not provided with heat, there is a risk that the lizard will die.

If there is a power outage that causes the heating pad to not work, or you plan to turn off the heat source overnight or during the day while you are away, make sure he has access to food and water.

Note that bearded dragons may refuse to eat when their body temperature has dropped too low because they are suffering from indigestion and, worse, constipation. You may want to wait for their body heat to readjust after exposure to warmer conditions before eating normally again.

For bearded dragons to thrive properly in captivity, they need a fair amount of UVB light and sources of heat in their enclosure — also known as heating rocks and/or lamps. The best way to care for a baby bearded dragon is to keep the tank at the right temperature to avoid the risk of extreme cold.

The ideal ambient air temperature range is 75-85°F with sunspots of 90-95°F.

ALSO READ: Bearded Dragon Lying Flat: Causes and Solutions

Why do bearded dragons need warmth?

Warmth is very important for every cold-blooded animal. Like all reptiles, bearded dragons rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. For this reason, you should provide both a basking area and a cooling area in the bear’s enclosure.

The basking spot in a bearded dragon’s tank should be between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and the ambient air in the cage must remain at 82 to 86 degrees. A thermometer is essential for monitoring these temperatures to ensure your pet stays healthy.

But what is the importance of heat, aside from helping reptiles regulate their body temperature?

digestion

In order to digest food, a bearded dragon needs heat. The heat from the heat source encourages good bacteria in your pet’s intestines that help with digestion. Giving them some time to bask after a meal can also help prevent indigestion and constipation.

Most beardies will remain on a heating pad or rock after feeding to warm up their intestines. If they don’t get heat, your pet can experience a variety of nasty digestive issues like constipation and bloating.

Signs of indigestion in bearded dragons include:

absent or decreased appetite

Lethargy, sluggishness, or inactivity

regurgitation of food

Circular behavior around the heat source

It’s important to monitor the heat around your bearded dragon at all times, especially during the winter months, so that he can properly digest food and have regular, healthy bowel movements.

regulation of body temperature

Bearded dragons need warm areas in their enclosure to regulate their body temperature. If your pet doesn’t have a place to bask, it may get too cold and get sick.

Regulating the bearded dragon’s body temperature allows them an active outdoor life with relatively low food requirements – that’s why providing these reptiles with heat is so important.

If you find that your Beardie is having trouble regulating its own body temperature, it means the heat pad may not be working. You’ll want to check the heat lamp and night heater ceramic pads to make sure they are powered and providing heat as expected.

The winter months are the most sensitive and your Beardie will most likely develop brumation. However, if your bearded dragon isn’t receiving enough warmth at night or during the winter months, its internal temperature will drop, causing lethargy and even death if left unchecked.

Heat stones are one of the most common sources of heat for reptiles because they are cheap. To avoid regulation problems due to lack of heating, you should:

Make sure you have a suitable place in the sun

Check that the heaters are working as desired

In the event of a power outage, provide a backup power source

calcium intake

The absorption of dietary calcium in bearded dragons is also dependent on heat. Bearded dragons need warmth in their enclosure so they can digest food and properly absorb calcium.

Without proper warming, your bearded dragon may have problems absorbing calcium from its diet.

If you find that your tardigrade isn’t getting enough calcium from its diet, it’s likely due to the lack of warmth in its habitat – meaning it’s not getting what it needs from its diet. If this continues over time, you could end up with a sickly pet, in addition to the increased risk of health problems brought on by cold temperatures like poor digestion and constipation.

Signs of low calcium in bearded dragons include:

bad appetite

Metabolic Bone Disease

Lethargy, sluggishness, or inactivity

swollen joints and bones that can deform due to the lack of heat.

It’s important to ensure your bearded dragon is getting enough calcium from its diet to keep it healthy. If you find they aren’t getting enough calcium from their diet, it may mean that heat sources aren’t providing the right heat.

This means your pet needs more help with thermoregulation than just a thermostat setting. Ensure there is sufficient warmth for him to perch on his basking spot and bask when needed, while also ensuring that prey ingestion also provides an adequate supply of dietary calcium.

READ MORE: Calcium for Bearded Dragons: How Much They Need + Frequency

Power failure and heating for bearded dragons

Power outages can be deadly for bearded dragons if you’re unprepared. Make sure you have a secondary source of heat before a power outage occurs, and remember where your outlets are located so you don’t stumble around in the dark trying to locate a blackout in emergency situations.

Here are alternative ways to provide warmth to your bearded dragon during a power outage:

Bask the lizard in the sun

In the event of a power outage and if you don’t have a backup power source, a great way is to take the lizard outside to bask in the sun to keep them warm. Remember to keep an eye on the bearded dragons and stay close in case they need help getting back inside or you want to hide from the sun if it’s too hot outside.

Bearded dragons get their warmth in the wild by basking in the sun. When you get the chance, take your bearded dragon outside to bask in the sunlight and this will provide them with warmth as they may be cold from being indoors too much, or just need some vitamin D.

You can also place the lizard near any heat source, e.g. an open window where the sun is shining through, or if it’s not sunny outside, place them near something that gives off heat, e.g. B. a space heater.

have backup power sources

If possible, have solar backup and battery backups for your bearded dragon.

Solar: When the sun is out, you can place solar panels in an area where they get direct sunlight, or use solar-powered lamps that plug into outlets to provide heat when electricity isn’t available

Batteries: If you don’t want to rely on solar power, battery-powered heating pads are a cheaper option.

It is very important that your bearded dragon has warmth at all times, especially when it is cold outside or during the winter months.

Use blankets

Another way to keep your bearded dragon warm without electricity is by using blankets.

You can place blankets over the tank or on top of your lizard to provide warmth and stimulate them to know it’s time for a meal.

Be careful not to use too many blankets as this will trap the heat and suffocate your bearded dragon which is dangerous to their health. You want just enough blankets that are needed without obscuring vents under tanks or anywhere else air needs to flow (whether that’s natural light through windows or heat sources like space heaters).

Extra blankets should only be used if you have an emergency power outage and no other backup power source is available, but do not risk trapping all of the body heat given off by the animal as this could result in death.

Hold the bearded dragon close to your body

If you have no other way to provide warmth to your bearded dragon, it is best to keep it close to you.

This will help provide warmth and give them a sense of security while they are cold from being indoors all day or feeling exposed if there is an emergency power outage with no backup power source available.

Remember that this should only be done as a last resort as there is no guarantee of how long their body temperature will stay warm and sudden movements could result in injury or death, so keep the contact gentle but steady.

You should avoid holding the lizard too tightly as this could restrict blood flow, making the animal more susceptible to disease; however, gently hugging or rubbing his tummy area are ways you can add warmth and make him feel safe.

Remember to watch out for her tail, which could snap off if not grabbed gently or if she’s jumping around in fear, so hold the lizard as best you can while you hug her for warmth.

Use a hot water bottle

If all of the above methods seem unsafe for some reason, try using a hot water bottle wrapped in cloth on one side only so that it doesn’t overheat if you lie against it during use.

You should be careful not to overheat the bearded dragon with the hot water bottle, as this can easily happen. You can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the hot water bottle before you place it next to the bearded dragon and make sure you don’t need to adjust the temperature of your hot water bottle.

Finally, never use a lightbulb or anything too exposed for your pet as it can be dangerous for the lizard. You should make sure they don’t get too close or touch anything that gives off heat, such as a lamp. B. Lights, as these are not safe options.

Signs your bearded dragon is too cold

Extreme heat is too risky for bearded dragons and can lead to many health complications. If you take an interest in your bearded dragon’s behavior, you will find out if the reptile suffers from extreme cold.

Here are the signs your bearded dragon might be too cold:

immobility

If your bearded dragon seems immobile, it is too cold. This can happen if the reptile does not move and/or stays in one place. These are two of the most important signs of a sick or stressed animal: Any sudden change in their habits could mean something is wrong.

unresponsiveness

If your bearded dragon doesn’t respond, it’s too cold. Bearded dragons are generally active animals that move around a lot and try to get away from anything they don’t like or find uncomfortable. If the reptile becomes unresponsive, it likely needs more heat immediately.

Low skin temperature

If your bearded dragons have a low skin temperature, it is too cold. If you touch the reptile and its body feels cool to the touch or feels dry to the touch, it’s probably not getting enough heat.

READ MORE: Do bearded dragons absorb water through their skin?

There may be times when just using heat lamps or ceramic heaters is not enough to keep your bearded dragon heating up at the same level. You may need to find a solution to supplement terrarium heat.

This can be a problem especially in very cold weather during the winter months.

Adding a simple under-tank heating pad could be the perfect tool to supplement the terrarium heat for a bearded dragon.

Next, we’ll go through some ways you can add a heating pad (or underfloor heating) to your terrarium to add a little extra warmth.

Complementing the terrarium heat with heat pads

If you discover an area of ​​your bearded dragon’s habitat with temperatures that are a bit too cool for your taste (or the bearded dragon’s preferences), supplementing the terrarium heat with heat pads may be sufficient.

Using a heating pad is a great way to add warmth to the bearded dragon from underneath. Maintaining abdominal warmth is important for bearded dragons to increase appetite and aid in digestion.

Benefits of heat packs with bearded dragons

Heating pads are a great way to add gentle, even heat to an area that is too cold. Heating pads are generally attached to the bottom of tanks with an adhesive side and contain a built-in thermostat to regulate the heat generated.

They are available in many different sizes to suit all types of aquariums and terrariums. Make sure you buy a heating pad that best suits the terrarium you are using.

You can also use two heating pads at each end of the terrarium if needed to complement the sunning zone and cooler zone.

Under-tank heaters tend to work better for bearded dragons when there is a thick layer of substrate. The heater warms the substrate and can encourage more activity during the winter months.

Heating pads are a great way to add warmth to your bearded dragon’s habitat. You should not rely on them to provide all of your bearded dragon’s heat needs. Heating devices such as heat lamps and ceramic heaters provide most of the heat required for a bearded dragon.

Precautions for heat pads with bearded dragons

Heating pads are electrical devices and should be used with care. Only attach heating pads to glass terrariums. Avoid using heating pads near water or humid places.

Always be aware of objects near the heating pad that could be a source of ignition or combustible.

Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings!

I live near Chicago and I’m not the biggest fan of the cold we get in winter. But at least I can wear a coat. As cool as it would be if my bearded dragon Bacardi could wear a coat when she’s cold, it wouldn’t do her any good.

Instead, our bears rely on us to provide them with a nice, warm spot to sunbathe. The question, however, is how warm should that basking spot be?

The temperature where your bearded dragons bask should be between 95℉ and 110℉ (35℃-43℃). Baby bearded dragons need a warmer place (35℉-110℉), while adult bearded dragons are better suited to slightly lower temperatures (95℉-105℉). The best way to check these temperatures is with a temperature gun.

Bearded dragons are ectotherms

Humans are endotherms, meaning we generate body heat ourselves. One of the many functions of this self-generated heat is to aid in digestion. No heat, no digestion. No digestion, no nutrients from food. No nutrients and, you guessed it, we wouldn’t survive!

Our bearded dragons are alternating heat. They cannot generate their own body heat. Their cold-blooded little bodies cannot generate the heat needed to digest their food. That means they have to get that heat from an external source.

Here Bacardi is in full sun mode. Under her lamp and spread out to absorb as much outside heat as possible.

In Australia, where they come from, external heat isn’t hard to find. Bearded dragons originate from hot and dry regions of Australia where the sun shines on them almost every day. They are commonly found on a rock, where they warm from the sun’s heat and aid in digestion.

When we decided to keep our little scaly friends in an enclosure in our homes, it’s up to us to provide them with the warmth they can no longer get from the sun. In fact, it is important to give them a temperature range in their vivarium.

This allows them to regulate their body temperature by moving from spot to spot. If they need warmth, they can go to their “sun spot”. If they need a cooler temperature, they can move to the cooler side of their home.

This necessity has many bearded dragon owners wondering how hot each side should be and how to reach those required temperatures.

Sun temperatures for bearded dragons

The temperatures you need for your Beardie will vary slightly by age. It is important to provide these required temperatures and to monitor them regularly.

If it gets too cold, your tardigrade will not be able to properly digest its food. This can cause an impaction or other problems that can be serious and even fatal. This is why strict temperature control is so vital! (Not sure what an impaction is? Read our full and helpful article here)

Dragon babies like it a little hotter. As bearded dragons age, their heat requirements decrease slightly. Because babies and teenagers grow so quickly, they eat more than adults. Particularly difficult to digest insects.

While adults should only get bugs a few times a week, babies and teens should get them almost every day. This means their digestive needs are more demanding, and that means they like a hotter spot in the sun.

Sun temperatures by age:

Age ℉ ℃ Baby 105-110 40-43 Youth 100-110 38-43 Adult 95-105 35-40

How to heat up the tanning area

Let’s start with how not to heat the area for sunbathing. It’s never a good idea to heat the area from below. Do not use a heated stone or under mounted heating pad.

This can cause the surface of the area to get too hot for your beard. Your dragon won’t realize it needs to move until it’s too late and it’s been burned. Always heat the tanning area with a light from above.

For a complete guide to lighting your bearded dragon enclosure, click here (article coming soon). I’ve spent a lot of time covering every possible detail and that includes your sunlight options.

In short, you can use a conventional incandescent lamp, incandescent lamp, or MVB (mercury vapor lamp) for this job. Each fixture has its own unique requirements, so please read my lighting guide before choosing and positioning a bulb.

The heater light hangs anywhere from 6 inches (for standard or solar bulbs) to sometimes 24 inches above the sunspot (for higher wattage MVB bulbs). The distance from the spot will help you set the right temperature.

Our Beardie loves to sunbathe in her hammock!

Remember, you are not aiming for an onion removal. You are aiming for a temperature. Reposition your light bulb, basking area, or both until you reach the desired temperature. I like using a hammock for my bear’s basking spot as it allowed me to raise and lower it until the heat level was just right.

Once you have what you think is the correct setting, leave the bulb on for about an hour and then take the temperatures again. Triple check and you should be good to go. You have to make sure the temperature is right. This is crucial.

How to measure the temperature

I also recommend checking the temps regularly. Things can change over time. Room temperature also affects your basking spot, so seasonal changes are normal and should be taken into account.

Your light bulb’s effectiveness diminishes over time, so regular bulb replacement (every 6 months) is a good practice.

I recommend using a temper gun for this job. While it’s nice to have a thermometer on the wall to see the overall temperature in your terrarium, this thermometer doesn’t tell you what the actual basking spot is measuring.

A temp gun is a small device with an LCD display that you aim at the exact spot you want a measurement from. Some even have small laser lights that show you exactly where you’re checking.

Check multiple points throughout the sun’s range. Make sure they fall within the required ranges. I like to check this weekly and sometimes even more often. A temperature gun is the best and most accurate way to take the temperature of your bear’s basking spot.

You don’t have to spend a fortune on a short-duration pistol. I use one I bought pretty cheap off Amazon and it works great! I’ve had it for years and it’s still on the original battery. You can check the current prices by clicking on this link.

Although I think it’s overkill, my vet recommends a high-end temperature gun. He thinks it’s more accurate and can be used from a greater distance. I’m happy with my cheaper version, but if you want to see what a qualified exotic pet vet recommends, you can see their recommendation here on Amazon.

Timing of the sun lamp

You don’t want your sun lamp to be on 24/7. Instead you want to simulate the sun. Finally, you’re trying to recreate your dragon’s natural habitat. I recommend you put the light on a timer. Set it for twelve hours on and twelve hours off.

I set mine to come on at sunrise and go off 12 hours later. That way my beardie won’t be woken up by the sun coming through the window before its sunlight comes on.

This is our timer setup. It makes life really easy!

Since you will have multiple lights in your vivarium, some of which stay on all the time and others that turn on and off every twelve hours, I recommend using an all-in-one timer. I use one from Zoo Med. It has four always-on outlets and four with built-in timers.

It’s compact and perfect for my bear’s lighting arrangement. Automating the lights is far better than trying to remember to turn them on and off every day. You can get one for yourself here on Amazon. It’s worth the money!!!

night temperatures

The desert in Australia can get cold at night. This is what your bearded dragon awaits. The cooler temperatures help them sleep and feel at home.

With the sunlight off, your vivarium is said to drop to 70℉-75℉ (21℃-24℃) at night. The lowest value that should ever be reached is 65℉ (18℃). If you think it will ever get lower, you need to consider one of several ways to heat your tank at night.

This can be done with either a red lightbulb or a ceramic heater. Both have their place and which one you use depends on how cold your house gets at night.

As a general rule, use a red light in homes where temperatures don’t drop below 65 and use a ceramic heater in that case. We use a CHE (ceramic heating element) and have been very happy with the results. See what ours looks like here.

Remember to read my full lighting guide here for all the important details (article coming soon)!

A well heated Beardie is a happy Beardie

Remember, our goal is to simulate their natural home. To do this, they need the right soaking temperature. It is also crucial for their digestion.

Once you set up your basking area properly, you’ll have a happy and healthy bear on your hands. And don’t we all want that?

Related Questions:

My bearded dragon is standing in his sun spot with his head held high and his mouth open, is he alright?

Yes!!! This is a bearded dragon’s natural response to enjoying the right temperature of the sun. If you see your bearded dragon sitting with its head held high and your mouth open, and your temperatures fall within the listed ranges, don’t worry.

What is the minimum distance between the sunbathing area and the sun bulb?

For standard light bulbs and incandescent bulbs you need at least 6 inches. Anything closer and you risk burning your dragon. My light is exactly 6 inches and is the perfect temperature for my beardie. If you are using an MVB (mercury vapor) lamp, read the guidelines that came with your lamp.

Can I place the enclosure in the sun instead of using a sun light?

No! Your Beardie’s vivarium should be protected from direct sunlight. They have no way of regulating how much heat they get and the tank could get way too hot. It would also mean that they don’t get any heat or light on cloudy days. Artificial lighting should always be used with bearded dragons in captivity.

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Pen

Many pet parents ask what temperature should a bearded dragon cage be?

Does a certain temperature have to be maintained?

Does it change as they get older?

If you have all of these questions on your plate, then fret no more because I’m going to cover that in depth and in full in this guide!

What temperature should a bearded dragon tank have? (per age group)

The right temperature for a bearded dragon varies by age!

Yes, even in my experience I never thought that a bear’s age would play a role in this formula.

Before we discuss the optimal temperature for each milestone or age of your bearded dragons, I want you to watch this video!

It will help you understand the importance of bright light and warmth in an enclosure.

Knowing the correct temperatures is relevant as this is a factor that will help your bears become healthier and adjust their body temperature.

Best tank temperature for a baby bearded dragon

The ideal or best bearded dragon enclosure temperature for baby bear cubs would be around 35 to 43 °C (95 to 110 °F). This is crucial; why? -Simply because your baby dragons wouldn’t be in the wild.

Your baby bearded dragon would not be getting the nutrients and minerals it should be getting outdoors.

EXPERT TIP: The cool spot area in the tank should be approximately 24-27°C (75-80°F). [1]

Best enclosure temperature for a juvenile bearded dragon

The right temperatures for teenage beards are almost the same as the requirements for baby beards. How hot should a teenage bearded dragon tank be?

The soaking temperature should be around 35 to 40°C (95 to 105°F), while the cool spot needs to hover around 24 to 27°C (75 to 80°F).

Best cage temperature for an adult bearded dragon

Finally, adult dragons usually require a much more complex temperature gradient. This is because they go about their usual regimes in the tank.

Daytime and nighttime temperatures should be around 25 to 29°C (75 to 85°F) and 21 to 24°C (70 to 75°F), respectively.

Keep the cooler point of the ambient temperature at 21°C (70°F).

EXPERT TIP: Play with the sunspot around 88-100°F (31-37°C). I have mine set at a steady rate of 33-35C.

So these are the recommended temperature ranges in your glass tanks depending on how old your Beardies are.

As a personal tip, NEVER forget to have a cool spot somewhere in the tank. To do this, make sure you have a temperature gradient within the tank to promote balance.

TIP: You can use a digital thermometer to verify proper temperature history in bearded dragon tanks. Make sure you place it on both ends to get accurate temperature readings.

What to consider when setting the temperature of your bearded dragon tanks

When setting the ideal temperature for your bearded dragon enclosure, it’s best to consider day and night temperatures, household placement, heat lamp use, and more!

I’ve made this guide simple and easy to understand so you won’t need any other guide!

Knowing the correct night and day temperatures

Due to their nature, the best daytime temperatures for Beardies should be around 24-29°C or 75-85°F; The night should never drop below 19°C (66°F).

The sun’s temperature is slightly higher than during the day – it should be around 35°C (95°F).

FUN FACT: Wild bears roam deserts, and deserts give off a murderous cold at night. So don’t worry about it getting too cold; Just don’t let the nighttime temperature drop below 16°C (61°F).

On normal days, I turned off my lightbulb at night. But in the winter I leave it on. I use heat without light making it a win-win for me and my reptile.

Understanding the placement of the tank in the home

Even if you are prepared with UV light, you need to place your glass terrariums in an area where the temperature can be conveniently controlled.

Most glass terrariums placed indoors should be far from the windows so as not to stress your beard. I remember leaving mine next to my bedside table for easy viewing through my bear’s enclosure.

If your house tends to get hot, you need to know how to lower the bearded dragon humidity levels to keep humidity levels reasonable.

Tank temperature monitoring and assessment

After all, you need to constantly monitor the ambient temperature.

Not all tanks keep temperature accurate, so keep track of cold and hot spots regularly with a digital probe thermometer.

Check out our list of the best bearded dragon thermometers.

SMALL HINT: If your UV light has a digital interface, check it constantly. You want to keep the thermal gradient constant throughout the tank.

Considering the size of bearded dragon tanks

The recommended size of a tank is about four (4) to five (5) times larger than the bear’s head due to the temperature in cold and hot spots.

You want a temperature gradient for regular activity, hotter temperatures for sunbathing, and colder temperatures for cooling off.

What temperatures are “bearable” for bearded dragons?

Although most bearded dragons would be able to do well within 18 to 20 °C (64 to 68 °F), do your best to avoid this.

At first I thought I was going into the “danger zone” when I adopted my beard over the winter. As it turns out, as long as a heat lamp is available, it’s okay for temperatures to drop to 18C at night.

By now you should know that your beardie hates colder temperatures, and that’s where the importance of a heat lamp, UVB lights, heat bands,[2] hand warmers, and other heating devices comes in.

If the power goes out, try whatever means you can to keep your pet reptiles warm and warm. Use any of the following to complement your bearded dragon tanks:

Use heat bands.

Throw in hand warmers.

Use portable heaters.

Cuddle with your Beardie.

If you feel like you still lack the knowledge, here are some of the most frequently asked questions about the required ambient temperature for your bears.

frequently asked Questions

Is 80 degrees too cold for a bearded dragon? 80°F or 27°C is the correct temperature for a cool spot in bearded dragon aquariums. This temperature is just right for your Beardie to cool down during cage time. Where can you put a thermometer in a bearded dragon tank? The best place to place a digital probe thermometer in bearded dragon aquariums would be near the bottom for both ends (cool spot and hot spot) for accurate temperature readings. How do I make my bearded dragon shell hotter? You can make your bearded dragon tanks hotter by using a few materials such as:

– Ceramic radiant heaters.

– heating mats.

– Other safe heat sources.

I recommend using ceramic heating elements for a more controlled and less disruptive experience. Can it get too hot for bearded dragons? Yes, your Beardies will sense when the temperature is a little above their limits. Some of the most common signs that the temperature is higher than it should be and that your beard is overheating are:

– Dig.

– Hide.

– Sitting in a corner for a long time.

Finally,

If you’re confused and wondering what temperature a bearded dragon cage should be, you’ve got all the guides you need!

Unlike me, who had to go through all the mistakes, you can come back to this guide the next time you’re confused about getting your reptiles the optimum temperature they should be getting.

references

1. Bearded Dragons – Housing [Internet]. vca_corporate. Available at: https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/bearded-dragons-housing

2. Grooming Your Bearded Dragon Pet [Internet]. Available at: https://cvm.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Caring-for-your-Bearded-Dragon.pdf

What bearded dragon tank temperature do you use? Let us know below!

With information about the origins of bearded dragons, it becomes easier to understand how they react to temperature changes. They have important information to mimic your dragon’s natural environment and give it the right amount of warmth.

Wild bearded dragons typically live in arid regions of Tasmania and Australia. These kites may be subject to temperature fluctuations that may rise as high as 38°C (100°F) and fall below 21°C (69°F). Hot areas tend to stay cold at night, with increased humidity that can exceed 40%.

Wild bearded dragons have a physique that adapts to temperature changes in these conditions. It is not necessary or even advisable to mimic extreme heat levels in your dragon tank. But it’s a must that your beard doesn’t get too cold.

In addition to the right humidity, the ideal temperature for a reptile terrarium is crucial. Reptiles, amphibians and special animals come from all over the world and are subject to their very own temperature requirements. Today we’re going to look at the do’s, don’ts, myths, and mistakes of getting the terrarium temperature right.

Cooling temperature VS ambient temperature

This one is large and often confused. First, let’s look at the difference between the two. The heat temperature refers to the surface temperature, i. H. the temperature of a specific radius or object in the tank. This is the area where heliothermic and sun-loving diurnal reptiles spend much of their day soaking up the sun’s rays. Ambient temperature is the air temperature of the terrarium. You probably have an analogue thermometer on one of the walls in your terrarium. These are ONLY used to measure ambient or “air” temperature. The only way to accurately measure soak temperature is with either a temperature gun or a digital thermometer/thermostat probe. Solar bulbs, ceramic heaters, and heat pads are used to create sunspots in the tank. Confusing these 2 types of tank temperatures can be fatal to your reptile.

Installing a thermostat

A thermostat is your best line of defense against poor temperature control. A thermostat regulates the temperature of your sunbathing area. Installing a thermostat in your terrarium is very simple, but it is often done wrong!

Step 1: Place Your Probe: Improper placement of the thermostat probe is often done incorrectly. The probe should be placed directly below your heat source (above the heat source if using a heating pad). Probes can be attached to branches or surfaces with cable ties or electrical tape.

Improper placement of the thermostat probe is often done incorrectly. The probe should be placed directly below your heat source (above the heat source if using a heating pad). Probes can be attached to branches or surfaces with cable ties or electrical tape. Step 2: Connect your heat source: After placing your probe in the right place, connect your heat source to the thermostat. Pisces recommends: Exo Terra Ceramic Heat Emitter OR Exo Terra Heat Mat. If your heat source is also your light source and connected to your thermostat, the light will flicker on and off. In this case, use a temperature gun or digital thermometer probe instead of a thermostat to accurately measure the soaking temperature.

After placing your probe in the right place, connect your heat source to the thermostat. If your heat source is also your light source and connected to your thermostat, the light will flicker on and off. In this case, use a temperature gun or digital thermometer probe instead of a thermostat to accurately measure the soaking temperature. Step 3: Program your thermostat: With the probe and heat source in place, it’s time to program your thermostat. Remember that we have our probe directly in contact with our heat patch surface, so we program our desired heat temperature. For example, a bearded dragon needs an ambient temperature of 85°F and a sunspot of 110°F, we program our thermostat to maintain a temperature of 110°F.

Creating a temperature gradient

Now let’s examine our ambient temperature. No matter how hot or cold your reptile likes the ambient temperature, there must always be a so-called temperature gradient. This means that the air temperature at one end of the tank is warmer than the other. If you have an underground tank, your temperature change will occur between each side of the tank. If your tank is tree-like, your gradient will be from above and below. Reptiles and amphibians are cold-blooded and use this ambient temperature gradient to control their own internal temperature. A temperature gradient is extremely important as it prevents your pet from getting cold or overheating. Simply place your heat sources to one side of the tank to create a thermal gradient. Never place all heat sources in the center or have two heat sources on each side of the tank. If your tank is a tree, make sure you have the right wattage for your heat source so the tank is warmest at the top and cools closer to the bottom. Your analog ambient thermometer should be placed on the cooler side of the gradient, but still close to the middle.

night temperature

When the lights go out, we want a drop in temperature. A good thermostat can have a programmable cycle, allowing you to regulate temperatures at night. An average nighttime drop in temperature is between 5°F and 10°F. Measure the ambient temperature on the “cool” side of your terrarium. Use this temperature as a basis for your nighttime ambient temperature. Desert lizards like a uromastyx need a heat source throughout the night. That’s why lightless heat sources, side by side with a quality thermostat, are the solution to perfect tank temperatures! Pisces recommends: Zoo-Med Reptitemp Digital Thermostat.

Setting up a new enclosure, especially for the first time, can be very confusing. There are many questions we get asked frequently about heating, lighting, temperature measurement and control, and all are easy to answer once you have gained a little experience.

One of the questions we are often asked is “Where should I put this thermostat sensor?”. It’s one of those questions that seems obvious once you’ve assembled a vivarium or two, but seems utterly confusing the first time!

In this guide we cover why you need a probe on your thermostat, where it should be placed and why we put it there.

Why do we need a thermostat sensor?

Before we get into where you should place the probe, let’s take a little look at why we’re doing this. Your thermostat is the device that controls the temperature. This is the item that you program with the temperatures you want to achieve day and night. Whatever type of heater you use – deep heat projector, ceramic heater, halogen lamp or even heating mat – connects to the thermostat.

A thermostat is programmed to increase or decrease the power supplied to the heating element. The sensor is located at the end of the probe and tells the thermostat what temperature is surrounding the probe. This allows the thermostat to increase or decrease the power to the heating element, increasing or decreasing the temperature.

Where do we place a reptile thermostat probe?

Remember that the probe only measures temperature where it is positioned. In reptiles we need to create a temperature gradient from the warmest to the coolest point to allow your reptile to regulate its own body temperature.

There are three methods of probe placement. You can either place the probe on the warm end, cool end, or in the middle. Each works slightly differently, but the end result should be the same.

Warm End: Place the probe in the warmest part of the vivarium and set the thermostat to the highest desired temperature. Check the warm end, cool end, and center temperatures with a digital thermometer. This ensures that the warmest area does not go above your set maximum temperature.

Cool End: Place the probe in the coolest part of the vivarium and set the thermostat to the lowest temperature you wish to achieve. Check the temperatures in the rest of the vivarium with a good quality digital thermometer. This method ensures that your coolest area doesn’t overheat.

Middle: Place the probe roughly in the middle of the vivarium and set the thermostat to the middle of the temperature range you want to achieve. With this method, it is extremely important to check the temperatures around the rest of the vivarium with a good quality digital thermometer. This method is based on the fact that the area closest to the heating element is warmer and the area furthest away is cooler.

Placement of the thermostatic probe in low vivariums.

Lower vivariums are typically used for terrestrial (bottom-living) reptiles and amphibians. With these habitat types, we are more concerned with the temperatures that are reached where the animal is – on the ground!

For animals that like a lot of heat – for example bearded dragons, uromastyx, collared lizards – use the warm end method. Set your thermostat to the highest temperature you want to achieve and place the thermostat probe directly under the heat source. This should ensure your basking area doesn’t overheat but will ensure the temperature is high enough for reptiles that like it warm.

Temperate zone species such as corn snakes, green lizards and many toads benefit from the medium placement method. The area towards the heating element gets warmer and the farthest end gets cooler. Set your thermostat to the middle of the temperature range and place the probe on the floor approximately in the middle of the terrarium. Check your temperatures with a good quality digital thermometer and adjust the thermostat setting until you get the temperatures you want.

The cool end method is particularly useful for species like fire salamanders and other amphibians that don’t like too much heat. By placing the thermostat probe in the coolest area and setting the thermostat to the lowest temperature you need, you ensure the temperature doesn’t get higher than your pet needs.

Placement of the thermostatic probe in tall vivariums.

Larger vivariums are used for arboreal (tree-living) animals, and the process is slightly different in this type of habitat. We’re still aiming for a temperature gradient, but instead of along the bottom, it’s now vertical. The warmest area is at the top and the coolest area is at the bottom – warm air rises!

Although the three methods above can be used, placing the thermostat probe in a high vivarium is usually a combination of the warm end and the middle method. Most arboreal animals can be quite shy about sitting directly outdoors, so make sure there’s a warm area shaded with leaves or branches. This mottled shadow effect also allows them to absorb UV without sitting outdoors, which can be stressful.

Place the thermostat probe in a shady sunny area – zip ties are very useful for attaching probes to branches! – and set the temperature on the thermostat to the desired temperature. This is usually the ambient (background) temperature at the warm end. This ensures that the more open basking spot is slightly hotter, giving your pet the choice of basking openly for short periods or sitting under a blanket and warming up.

Be sure to keep an eye on temperatures down in the enclosure with a good quality digital thermometer. If the vivarium is very high, you may need to add extra heating to ensure the temperature on the floor doesn’t get too low.

Installing your thermostat sensor – a step-by-step guide.

The actual process of positioning the thermostatic probe is very similar, regardless of which method you use and whatever the size or shape of the vivarium. Think about what you’re trying to achieve – a gradient from the warmest to the coolest – and what type of animal you’re creating a habitat for

Remember, this is a process more complex to describe than to do.

Insert the probe through one of the openings of the vivarium

Position the probe in the area you want to control the temperature from – warm end, medium or cool end

Make sure the probe is attached and not buried in the substrate or resting on glass

Set your thermostat to the desired temperature

Check temperatures in the vivarium with a digital thermometer

Set the thermostat as needed

It is really that easy!

If you would like further advice or are unsure about how to set up your new vivarium or thermostat, feel free to call us or stop by the shop to speak to one of our reptile experts. We’re here to help! We’re available by email, Facebook or Instagram Messenger, or by phone – or contact us the old-fashioned way and come to the store to chat.

We have a wide range of vivariums and facilities to accommodate your new pet, so come speak to us or write to us. We also have an extensive range of care sheets on our website, so check out the care hub to see how we can help. Our blog is full of useful and informative articles!

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Pen

Many pet parents ask what temperature should a bearded dragon cage be?

Does a certain temperature have to be maintained?

Does it change as they get older?

If you have all of these questions on your plate, then fret no more because I’m going to cover that in depth and in full in this guide!

What temperature should a bearded dragon tank have? (per age group)

The right temperature for a bearded dragon varies by age!

Yes, even in my experience I never thought that a bear’s age would play a role in this formula.

Before we discuss the optimal temperature for each milestone or age of your bearded dragons, I want you to watch this video!

It will help you understand the importance of bright light and warmth in an enclosure.

Knowing the correct temperatures is relevant as this is a factor that will help your bears become healthier and adjust their body temperature.

Best tank temperature for a baby bearded dragon

The ideal or best bearded dragon enclosure temperature for baby bear cubs would be around 35 to 43 °C (95 to 110 °F). This is crucial; why? -Simply because your baby dragons wouldn’t be in the wild.

Your baby bearded dragon would not be getting the nutrients and minerals it should be getting outdoors.

EXPERT TIP: The cool spot area in the tank should be approximately 24-27°C (75-80°F). [1]

Best enclosure temperature for a juvenile bearded dragon

The right temperatures for teenage beards are almost the same as the requirements for baby beards. How hot should a teenage bearded dragon tank be?

The soaking temperature should be around 35 to 40°C (95 to 105°F), while the cool spot needs to hover around 24 to 27°C (75 to 80°F).

Best cage temperature for an adult bearded dragon

Finally, adult dragons usually require a much more complex temperature gradient. This is because they go about their usual regimes in the tank.

Daytime and nighttime temperatures should be around 25 to 29°C (75 to 85°F) and 21 to 24°C (70 to 75°F), respectively.

Keep the cooler point of the ambient temperature at 21°C (70°F).

EXPERT TIP: Play with the sunspot around 88-100°F (31-37°C). I have mine set at a steady rate of 33-35C.

So these are the recommended temperature ranges in your glass tanks depending on how old your Beardies are.

As a personal tip, NEVER forget to have a cool spot somewhere in the tank. To do this, make sure you have a temperature gradient within the tank to promote balance.

TIP: You can use a digital thermometer to verify proper temperature history in bearded dragon tanks. Make sure you place it on both ends to get accurate temperature readings.

What to consider when setting the temperature of your bearded dragon tanks

When setting the ideal temperature for your bearded dragon enclosure, it’s best to consider day and night temperatures, household placement, heat lamp use, and more!

I’ve made this guide simple and easy to understand so you won’t need any other guide!

Knowing the correct night and day temperatures

Due to their nature, the best daytime temperatures for Beardies should be around 24-29°C or 75-85°F; The night should never drop below 19°C (66°F).

The sun’s temperature is slightly higher than during the day – it should be around 35°C (95°F).

FUN FACT: Wild bears roam deserts, and deserts give off a murderous cold at night. So don’t worry about it getting too cold; Just don’t let the nighttime temperature drop below 16°C (61°F).

On normal days, I turned off my lightbulb at night. But in the winter I leave it on. I use heat without light making it a win-win for me and my reptile.

Understanding the placement of the tank in the home

Even if you are prepared with UV light, you need to place your glass terrariums in an area where the temperature can be conveniently controlled.

Most glass terrariums placed indoors should be far from the windows so as not to stress your beard. I remember leaving mine next to my bedside table for easy viewing through my bear’s enclosure.

If your house tends to get hot, you need to know how to lower the bearded dragon humidity levels to keep humidity levels reasonable.

Tank temperature monitoring and assessment

After all, you need to constantly monitor the ambient temperature.

Not all tanks keep temperature accurate, so keep track of cold and hot spots regularly with a digital probe thermometer.

Check out our list of the best bearded dragon thermometers.

SMALL HINT: If your UV light has a digital interface, check it constantly. You want to keep the thermal gradient constant throughout the tank.

Considering the size of bearded dragon tanks

The recommended size of a tank is about four (4) to five (5) times larger than the bear’s head due to the temperature in cold and hot spots.

You want a temperature gradient for regular activity, hotter temperatures for sunbathing, and colder temperatures for cooling off.

What temperatures are “bearable” for bearded dragons?

Although most bearded dragons would be able to do well within 18 to 20 °C (64 to 68 °F), do your best to avoid this.

At first I thought I was going into the “danger zone” when I adopted my beard over the winter. As it turns out, as long as a heat lamp is available, it’s okay for temperatures to drop to 18C at night.

By now you should know that your beardie hates colder temperatures, and that’s where the importance of a heat lamp, UVB lights, heat bands,[2] hand warmers, and other heating devices comes in.

If the power goes out, try whatever means you can to keep your pet reptiles warm and warm. Use any of the following to complement your bearded dragon tanks:

Use heat bands.

Throw in hand warmers.

Use portable heaters.

Cuddle with your Beardie.

If you feel like you still lack the knowledge, here are some of the most frequently asked questions about the required ambient temperature for your bears.

frequently asked Questions

Is 80 degrees too cold for a bearded dragon? 80°F or 27°C is the correct temperature for a cool spot in bearded dragon aquariums. This temperature is just right for your Beardie to cool down during cage time. Where can you put a thermometer in a bearded dragon tank? The best place to place a digital probe thermometer in bearded dragon aquariums would be near the bottom for both ends (cool spot and hot spot) for accurate temperature readings. How do I make my bearded dragon shell hotter? You can make your bearded dragon tanks hotter by using a few materials such as:

– Ceramic radiant heaters.

– heating mats.

– Other safe heat sources.

I recommend using ceramic heating elements for a more controlled and less disruptive experience. Can it get too hot for bearded dragons? Yes, your Beardies will sense when the temperature is a little above their limits. Some of the most common signs that the temperature is higher than it should be and that your beard is overheating are:

– Dig.

– Hide.

– Sitting in a corner for a long time.

Finally,

If you’re confused and wondering what temperature a bearded dragon cage should be, you’ve got all the guides you need!

Unlike me, who had to go through all the mistakes, you can come back to this guide the next time you’re confused about getting your reptiles the optimum temperature they should be getting.

references

1. Bearded Dragons – Housing [Internet]. vca_corporate. Available at: https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/bearded-dragons-housing

2. Grooming Your Bearded Dragon Pet [Internet]. Available at: https://cvm.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Caring-for-your-Bearded-Dragon.pdf

What bearded dragon tank temperature do you use? Let us know below!

Bearded dragons are cold-blooded animals and need targeted heating to regulate their body temperature. These reptiles have a very low tolerance to temperature changes and can go into shock if not heated properly. So how long can bearded dragons go without heat?

How long can bearded dragons go without heat?

Bearded dragons can survive up to 24 hours without heat if the temperature is at least 20°C. If the lizard goes too long without an external source of heat, it becomes inactive and its digestion slows down significantly.

Bearded dragons require a heating mechanism in their enclosure to regulate their body temperature. It is best to provide heat with a ceramic radiant heater or a UVB lamp.

I’ve discussed several ideas for providing warmth to your bearded dragon even during a power outage. With the tips, you can keep your reptile pet warm and active even when winter temperatures drop and the power goes out.

Will a bearded dragon die if it gets cold?

Bearded dragons rely on external heat sources to stay active and perform their bodily functions. Without heat for more than 24 hours, the reptiles’ vital body processes are disrupted and the bearded dragons die from too much cold and an inability to move and eat.

Depending on the situation, location or general climatic conditions, this process can take between 24 hours and a few days. If the lizard is in an arid habitat with little to no vegetation, it can take about 24 hours for the animal to die as a result of extreme cold.

However, if your lizard lives at higher elevations with more protection from wind gusts and precipitation, this period can be extended by up to two days. Bottom Line: Don’t leave your bearded dragon alone at home if you expect extreme weather conditions.

What is the lowest temperature a bearded dragon can survive?

The lowest temperature that bearded dragons can survive for a short time is around 65°F. When it drops below 65°F, the lizard shows inactivity and lethargy due to the extreme cold. If it is not provided with heat, there is a risk that the lizard will die.

If there is a power outage that causes the heating pad to not work, or you plan to turn off the heat source overnight or during the day while you are away, make sure he has access to food and water.

Note that bearded dragons may refuse to eat when their body temperature has dropped too low because they are suffering from indigestion and, worse, constipation. You may want to wait for their body heat to readjust after exposure to warmer conditions before eating normally again.

For bearded dragons to thrive properly in captivity, they need a fair amount of UVB light and sources of heat in their enclosure — also known as heating rocks and/or lamps. The best way to care for a baby bearded dragon is to keep the tank at the right temperature to avoid the risk of extreme cold.

The ideal ambient air temperature range is 75-85°F with sunspots of 90-95°F.

ALSO READ: Bearded Dragon Lying Flat: Causes and Solutions

Why do bearded dragons need warmth?

Warmth is very important for every cold-blooded animal. Like all reptiles, bearded dragons rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. For this reason, you should provide both a basking area and a cooling area in the bear’s enclosure.

The basking spot in a bearded dragon’s tank should be between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and the ambient air in the cage must remain at 82 to 86 degrees. A thermometer is essential for monitoring these temperatures to ensure your pet stays healthy.

But what is the importance of heat, aside from helping reptiles regulate their body temperature?

digestion

In order to digest food, a bearded dragon needs heat. The heat from the heat source encourages good bacteria in your pet’s intestines that help with digestion. Giving them some time to bask after a meal can also help prevent indigestion and constipation.

Most beardies will remain on a heating pad or rock after feeding to warm up their intestines. If they don’t get heat, your pet can experience a variety of nasty digestive issues like constipation and bloating.

Signs of indigestion in bearded dragons include:

absent or decreased appetite

Lethargy, sluggishness, or inactivity

regurgitation of food

Circular behavior around the heat source

It’s important to monitor the heat around your bearded dragon at all times, especially during the winter months, so that he can properly digest food and have regular, healthy bowel movements.

regulation of body temperature

Bearded dragons need warm areas in their enclosure to regulate their body temperature. If your pet doesn’t have a place to bask, it may get too cold and get sick.

Regulating the bearded dragon’s body temperature allows them an active outdoor life with relatively low food requirements – that’s why providing these reptiles with heat is so important.

If you find that your Beardie is having trouble regulating its own body temperature, it means the heat pad may not be working. You’ll want to check the heat lamp and night heater ceramic pads to make sure they are powered and providing heat as expected.

The winter months are the most sensitive and your Beardie will most likely develop brumation. However, if your bearded dragon isn’t receiving enough warmth at night or during the winter months, its internal temperature will drop, causing lethargy and even death if left unchecked.

Heat stones are one of the most common sources of heat for reptiles because they are cheap. To avoid regulation problems due to lack of heating, you should:

Make sure you have a suitable place in the sun

Check that the heaters are working as desired

In the event of a power outage, provide a backup power source

calcium intake

The absorption of dietary calcium in bearded dragons is also dependent on heat. Bearded dragons need warmth in their enclosure so they can digest food and properly absorb calcium.

Without proper warming, your bearded dragon may have problems absorbing calcium from its diet.

If you find that your tardigrade isn’t getting enough calcium from its diet, it’s likely due to the lack of warmth in its habitat – meaning it’s not getting what it needs from its diet. If this continues over time, you could end up with a sickly pet, in addition to the increased risk of health problems brought on by cold temperatures like poor digestion and constipation.

Signs of low calcium in bearded dragons include:

bad appetite

Metabolic Bone Disease

Lethargy, sluggishness, or inactivity

swollen joints and bones that can deform due to the lack of heat.

It’s important to ensure your bearded dragon is getting enough calcium from its diet to keep it healthy. If you find they aren’t getting enough calcium from their diet, it may mean that heat sources aren’t providing the right heat.

This means your pet needs more help with thermoregulation than just a thermostat setting. Ensure there is sufficient warmth for him to perch on his basking spot and bask when needed, while also ensuring that prey ingestion also provides an adequate supply of dietary calcium.

READ MORE: Calcium for Bearded Dragons: How Much They Need + Frequency

Power failure and heating for bearded dragons

Power outages can be deadly for bearded dragons if you’re unprepared. Make sure you have a secondary source of heat before a power outage occurs, and remember where your outlets are located so you don’t stumble around in the dark trying to locate a blackout in emergency situations.

Here are alternative ways to provide warmth to your bearded dragon during a power outage:

Bask the lizard in the sun

In the event of a power outage and if you don’t have a backup power source, a great way is to take the lizard outside to bask in the sun to keep them warm. Remember to keep an eye on the bearded dragons and stay close in case they need help getting back inside or you want to hide from the sun if it’s too hot outside.

Bearded dragons get their warmth in the wild by basking in the sun. When you get the chance, take your bearded dragon outside to bask in the sunlight and this will provide them with warmth as they may be cold from being indoors too much, or just need some vitamin D.

You can also place the lizard near any heat source, e.g. an open window where the sun is shining through, or if it’s not sunny outside, place them near something that gives off heat, e.g. B. a space heater.

have backup power sources

If possible, have solar backup and battery backups for your bearded dragon.

Solar: When the sun is out, you can place solar panels in an area where they get direct sunlight, or use solar-powered lamps that plug into outlets to provide heat when electricity isn’t available

Batteries: If you don’t want to rely on solar power, battery-powered heating pads are a cheaper option.

It is very important that your bearded dragon has warmth at all times, especially when it is cold outside or during the winter months.

Use blankets

Another way to keep your bearded dragon warm without electricity is by using blankets.

You can place blankets over the tank or on top of your lizard to provide warmth and stimulate them to know it’s time for a meal.

Be careful not to use too many blankets as this will trap the heat and suffocate your bearded dragon which is dangerous to their health. You want just enough blankets that are needed without obscuring vents under tanks or anywhere else air needs to flow (whether that’s natural light through windows or heat sources like space heaters).

Extra blankets should only be used if you have an emergency power outage and no other backup power source is available, but do not risk trapping all of the body heat given off by the animal as this could result in death.

Hold the bearded dragon close to your body

If you have no other way to provide warmth to your bearded dragon, it is best to keep it close to you.

This will help provide warmth and give them a sense of security while they are cold from being indoors all day or feeling exposed if there is an emergency power outage with no backup power source available.

Remember that this should only be done as a last resort as there is no guarantee of how long their body temperature will stay warm and sudden movements could result in injury or death, so keep the contact gentle but steady.

You should avoid holding the lizard too tightly as this could restrict blood flow, making the animal more susceptible to disease; however, gently hugging or rubbing his tummy area are ways you can add warmth and make him feel safe.

Remember to watch out for her tail, which could snap off if not grabbed gently or if she’s jumping around in fear, so hold the lizard as best you can while you hug her for warmth.

Use a hot water bottle

If all of the above methods seem unsafe for some reason, try using a hot water bottle wrapped in cloth on one side only so that it doesn’t overheat if you lie against it during use.

You should be careful not to overheat the bearded dragon with the hot water bottle, as this can easily happen. You can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the hot water bottle before you place it next to the bearded dragon and make sure you don’t need to adjust the temperature of your hot water bottle.

Finally, never use a lightbulb or anything too exposed for your pet as it can be dangerous for the lizard. You should make sure they don’t get too close or touch anything that gives off heat, such as a lamp. B. Lights, as these are not safe options.

Signs your bearded dragon is too cold

Extreme heat is too risky for bearded dragons and can lead to many health complications. If you take an interest in your bearded dragon’s behavior, you will find out if the reptile suffers from extreme cold.

Here are the signs your bearded dragon might be too cold:

immobility

If your bearded dragon seems immobile, it is too cold. This can happen if the reptile does not move and/or stays in one place. These are two of the most important signs of a sick or stressed animal: Any sudden change in their habits could mean something is wrong.

unresponsiveness

If your bearded dragon doesn’t respond, it’s too cold. Bearded dragons are generally active animals that move around a lot and try to get away from anything they don’t like or find uncomfortable. If the reptile becomes unresponsive, it likely needs more heat immediately.

Low skin temperature

If your bearded dragons have a low skin temperature, it is too cold. If you touch the reptile and its body feels cool to the touch or feels dry to the touch, it’s probably not getting enough heat.

READ MORE: Do bearded dragons absorb water through their skin?