Best Vacuum For Rabbit Poop? The 73 Top Answers

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Can I vacuum rabbit poop?

The best way to clean the ground is to first use a broom and your hands to pick up the majority of the hay and poop and only then use the vacuum to clean up the rest of the fluff and dust.

How do you clean rabbit poop?

Fill a sink with a few inches of warm water (just enough so that the soiled area will be submerged) and mix in a dollop of pet shampoo (NOT human shampoo). Place your bunny in the bath and wash the soiled area until clean. Change out the water as necessary.

Can I vacuum around my bunny?

Take care when vacuuming, mowing the lawn or doing anything near your rabbit’s cage that is noisy. When you first get your rabbit, introduce him to things like vacuums slowly. Turn it on for a few seconds, then off, then on again, then off, then on for a bit longer, then off and so on.

How do you clean up after a rabbit?

Wash and scrub them using water and dish soap. Remove and wash all fabric bedding from the cage. Replace with clean bedding. Wipe down the cage with hot water and use vinegar to help remove stubborn urine deposits.

Treatment and Prevention

No one likes cleaning their pet rabbit’s hutch or cage, but sticking to a schedule will make it less of a chore. There are no hard and fast rules for how often you need to clean your rabbit’s cage, but cleaning a little each day will make things easier for you.

Usually, give your rabbit’s hutch or cage a thorough cleaning at least every two weeks. However, your rabbit’s cage may need a deep cleaning more often, depending on the size of the cage and how well your rabbit is trained with litter. If you have more than one rabbit, they will need to be cleaned more often.

Daily cleaning of the rabbit cage

Clean a little every day to keep your rabbit’s cage looking and smelling fresh.

Remove all uneaten fresh food from the cage daily. Ideally twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening.

Wash out the feeding bowl(s).

Wash and refill the water bottle. A bottle brush will make this task easier.

Spot clean small dirt such as water spots and clumps of urine that are outside the litter box. Replace these areas with fresh hay or bedding as needed.

Scoop out the litter box and add more litter or change out the litter as needed.

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

Weekly cleaning of the rabbit cage

Pick a day of the week to go a little further into the cleansing process.

Remove all accessories and toys from the cage. Wash and scrub with water and dish soap.

Remove and wash any cloth bedding from the cage. Replace with clean linens.

Wipe down the cage with hot water and use vinegar to remove stubborn urine deposits. If you have a smaller cage, you may want to take it apart and rinse it in the bath with water or outside with a hose.

Disinfect your cage, but any disinfectant needs to be rinsed out really well. Disinfectant cleaners are not a good option for wooden cages because they will soak up the chemicals if the wood isn’t properly sealed. A bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water can be used to disinfect the cage and other supplies. Let the cage and other items soak in this solution for about 30 minutes and then rinse very well.

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

Clean rabbit litter boxes

As previously mentioned, litter boxes should be checked daily and spot cleaned. Not only is this helpful for cleanliness, it’s also important for monitoring your rabbit’s urine and faecal output. Any changes could indicate a health problem in your rabbit.

The frequency of completely changing and cleaning the litter box depends heavily on the type and amount of litter used. If you use a flat layer of litter, you should clean the litter box daily. As you use more litter to create a deeper layer, simply scoop out clutter and be less likely to completely change litter.

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

Can a Roomba pick up hay?

Like a traditional vacuum, Roomba is designed to pick up debris of various sizes. Small animal pellets shouldn’t be a problem, nor should hay – although the length of the pieces would matter if they’re longer than the length of a vacuum cleaning head.

Treatment and Prevention

Like a conventional vacuum cleaner, Roomba is designed to pick up dirt of different sizes. Small animal pellets shouldn’t be a problem, neither should hay – although the length of the pieces would matter if they are longer than the length of a vacuum cleaner head.

Answered by an iRobot representative

How do I stop my rabbit pooping everywhere?

The best way to prevent your rabbit from pooping everywhere is to get them spayed or neutered. This will reduce the territorial instincts that cause the rabbit to scatter their droppings. You should also make sure they have a welcoming and easy-to-reach litter box available at all times.

Treatment and Prevention

Rabbits poop a lot. Once you have a pet rabbit, this becomes all too obvious when you find their little cocoa puff hacks scattered around your home. Most rabbits can be trained to litter relatively easily. However, some rabbits are a little more stubborn and will continue to leave their poo outside of their litter box.

The best way to prevent your rabbit from pooping everywhere is to have them spayed or neutered. This will reduce the territorial instincts that lead the rabbit to spill their poo. You should also make sure they have a welcoming and easily accessible litter box available at all times.

Even rabbits trained to use litter boxes occasionally poop outside of their crate. It’s next to impossible to completely stop this behavior, but there are steps you can take to significantly reduce the amount of poop you find littering.

Important: This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon, Small Pet Select, and Chewy.com affiliate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.

Why is your rabbit pooping everywhere?

In general, rabbits are actually pretty clean animals. They will try to choose a few secluded rooms as bathrooms so the rest of their space is clean. However, some rabbits are not so good at keeping the place clean. Some rabbits have a stronger instinct to mark their territory, or they have yet to learn house manners.

Some of the most common reasons you find rabbit droppings in your home include:

Territorial Pooping: Rabbits are territorial animals that will scatter their poo around an area to claim it as their own. They will do this when they first explore a new area and when they share a movement space with another animal that they aren’t attached to.

Rabbits are territorial animals that will spread their droppings around an area to claim it as their own. They will do this when they first explore a new area and when they share a movement space with another animal that they aren’t attached to. When a rabbit is fully grown: As young rabbits reach adulthood, they are more likely to react and start pooping all over the place, even if they have been trained to litter beforehand. In most cases, having your rabbit spayed or spayed will significantly reduce or eliminate this behavior.

As young rabbits reach adulthood, they are more likely to react and start pooping all over the place, even if they have been trained to litter beforehand. In most cases, having your rabbit spayed or spayed will significantly reduce or eliminate this behavior. The rabbit was never litter box trained: If your rabbit has never been litter box trained, they are much more likely to use random corners in the room or spaces under furniture for their bathroom. It’s still possible to train an adult rabbit to litter, but the older it is, the firmer it will be, so it may take extra time. (Learn how to scatter a rabbit)

Rabbits scatter their droppings to claim their territory. It’s most common when they first explore a new area.

Can you ever get a rabbit to use the litter box 100% of the time?

Even the best-behaved rabbit, best trained to litter, will occasionally leave a poo outside of its litter box. If your rabbit is ever surprised, excited, or frightened, they may temporarily forget their litter box manners and leave a poo.

A rabbit exploring a new place for the first time will also scatter some poo to claim the new territory. However, this behavior should stop once your rabbit becomes comfortable in the new space.

Place hay in or near the litter box to encourage better litter box habits.

1. Keep your rabbit’s living space clean

If your rabbit is notorious for using the bathroom outside of their enclosure or litter box, the first thing you should do is check out the enclosure itself. If their home base isn’t clean enough, rabbits might protest and try to find a toilet elsewhere. Try to make it a habit to scoop out the dirty parts of the litter box every day and keep the rest of your rabbit’s enclosure in a clean condition.

Read more: How to keep a rabbit enclosure clean

2. Have your rabbit spayed or neutered

If your rabbit hasn’t been neutered yet, this could be the simple solution to your problem. Many rabbits’ litter box habits improve fairly quickly after they are addressed. It’s important to note that it may take up to a month after surgery for your pooping habits to improve. It takes a few weeks for the rabbit’s hormones to settle down after spaying.

For neutering or spaying, I recommend finding a rabbit vet rather than a general vet who sees cats and dogs. Check the House Rabbit Society vet listings to find one near you (US and Canada), or the Rabbit Welfare Association if you live in the UK.

3. Keep other pets away from your rabbit’s area

Rabbits are more likely to spread territorial feces when sharing an area with other pets. This is especially common when they share a play area with other rabbits that they are not attached to. For example, when I volunteer with rescue rabbits, they are let out individually in a play area for exercise. The rabbits always leave feces scattered because the place smells like other rabbits.

This behavior is less common in other types of pets, such as cats and dogs. However, it’s still possible for your rabbit to feel that their territory is being threatened by other pets and will scatter their feces to claim the territory. If you recently brought a new pet home, your rabbit is more likely to exhibit this behavior. It may subside as they get used to the smell of the new pet.

Avoid getting the small corner crates marketed for rabbits. Instead, get a large litter box that your rabbit can fit in.

4. Make the litter box a welcoming place for your rabbit

If you want your rabbit to use the litter box instead of choosing other places in the house, consider making the crate an enticing spot for your rabbit. There are some simple changes you can make to the litter box setup to encourage better potty habits.

Put hay in the litter box. Rabbits love to nibble on hay while they go about their business, so adding a pile of timothy hay to their crate can improve litter box habits. Use a larger litter box. Make sure the crate you use for your rabbit is big enough for your rabbit to fit in and roll over. I recommend getting a litter box for your rabbit and avoiding the small corner boxes that are marketed for rabbits. Use a low-rimmed litter box for older, disabled, or obese rabbits. If your rabbit has any mobility issues due to obesity, arthritis, or another disability, they may have trouble jumping into the litter box. Get a box with low sides or a low entrance (like this one) to make it easier for your rabbit to use.

5. Make sure your rabbit is healthy

A loss of previously good litter box habits can be an indication of a health problem. It’s always a good idea to take your rabbit for a health check if they show significant behavioral changes or habits like these.

Being prey animals, rabbits have evolved to try to hide their symptoms when sick. This helped prevent them from looking like a weak link and being picked off by predators. Because of this, small behavioral changes (like losing litter box habits) may be the result of another underlying condition.

6. Let your rabbit choose the location of his bathroom

Sometimes rabbits are stubborn. They will decide they want to use one (or two) specific spots for their bathroom and refuse to use others. At times like these, it’s better to work with your rabbit’s habits than against them.

Though it’s a little awkward, place a litter box in the spots your rabbit seems to prefer as a bathroom. Scoop some of her poo into the crate so your rabbit understands to use it. It’s also a good idea to place a pee pad (like one of those dog potty training pads) on the floor around the crate, as your rabbit might go right next to the crate at first.

7. Use multiple litter boxes

If your rabbit is pooping all over the place while exploring and exercising, try giving them an additional litter box or two within their range of motion. Sometimes the rabbit just doesn’t feel like going all the way back to their home litter box to use the bathroom and needs a closer option.

You can tell by the placement of the droppings whether your rabbit is spreading droppings for its territory or whether it needs to go to the toilet. If they leave all their poo in one pile, it means they needed to go to the bathroom and didn’t want to go back into the litter box. If they have a poo or two scattered in different areas of the room, it means they are territorial poo and multiple litter boxes aren’t going to help much.

Why is my bunny suddenly pooping everywhere?

Marking: Spraying Urine & Scattering Droppings

The onset of sexual maturity is the trigger for a rabbit to begin marking his or her territory. If you’ve had your rabbit from a young age, this often means your perfectly litter-trained baby rabbit will suddenly start leaving poop and urine all over the place.

Treatment and Prevention

< Back to Index of Behavioral Problems Rabbit Behavior Problem: Bad litter box habits Many rabbit owners have problems with litter training their rabbits. If your rabbit has bad litter box habits, like Rosie and Jim, read on to find out what might be causing the problem and how to fix it. the latrine Wild rabbits use latrine areas for toileting. So when we "scatter" a rabbit, we are simply taking advantage of this natural behavior. Most pet rabbits will choose a corner in an area close to where they are for their latrine, and for litter training, simply place an appropriate tray in that location (tray and litter selection advice). Marking: spraying urine & scattering feces Although rabbits have latrine areas for toileting, they also mark their territory by scattering feces and urine around their home. These stinky messages will warn other rabbits that the territory is theirs and will help their territory smell like them so they feel more at home. The human nose lacks sensitive olfactory receptors to accurately interpret what these messages are saying, but simply put, they mean, "This is mine." The onset of sexual maturity is the trigger for a rabbit to mark its territory. Having your rabbit from a young age often means that your perfectly behaved baby rabbit will suddenly start leaking feces and urine all over the place. If you have a male rabbit, he may start spraying urine up walls or even at you. Males spray females during courtship, and sometimes rabbits express their love for a human mate with a squirt of urine - who needs flowers and chocolate! castration Neutering is essential for good litter habits. Once your rabbit is neutered, they will no longer have as strong an urge to mark their territory, so feces and urine will generally be confined to the latrine area. The first step for anyone attempting to train a rabbit to litter should be spaying - most rabbits will not be 100% housebroken until they are spayed. Male rabbits can be spayed as soon as their testicles drop, which is usually between 12 and 18 weeks, and female rabbits from around six months of age. There is no upper limit as long as your rabbit is healthy. With an experienced rabbit veterinarian, spaying is a routine operation and rescue centers perform thousands of spayings on rabbits each year. It may take a few weeks after surgery for your rabbit's litter habits to improve as it takes time for hormone levels that control territorial behaviors such as marking to decrease. Problems throwing So, you've had your rabbit spayed and placed a tray in your chosen latrine area, but your rabbit doesn't quite get the hang of using it - there are a few common problems: urinating over the side When rabbits urinate, they shuffle back into the corner and raise their tails. If the tray is fairly flat, it may mean that if you've added litter, your rabbit will sit on the edge of the tray if he shuffles back and misses it completely. You can fix this by switching to a tray with high sides - about 15cm/6in is a good depth. dig up garbage Rabbits love to dig, and a whole tray full of soil like litter can seem like the perfect spot for your rabbit. A litter box with a lid/hood, or placing the litter box in a box with an entry hole on the side, will prevent waste from going everywhere. You could also try providing your rabbit with an alternative digging area to swap out their digging activities. Continue to the tray Sometimes rabbits have a rough idea of ​​where to go, but they don't always get into the tray. There may be puddles or droppings right next to it. Again, a high-walled tray is helpful as it allows for a clearer distinction between inside and outside the tray. Also, don't use the same litter in the tub as in other areas, otherwise there will be little difference between the two and your rabbit may feel like the entire cage is a litter box. It's important that your rabbit can recognize the litter box as its toilet area. Many new owners make the mistake of cleaning too thoroughly, removing any scent marks that let their rabbit know this is the right spot. To help your rabbit learn, avoid strong-smelling cleaning products and after cleaning, return a small portion of dirty litter to the bowl to retain the proper smell. Putting the spilled poo in the bowl and blotting up the urine with a tissue and placing it in the litter box can also help teach your rabbit where to go as you will re-establish the correct smell. Cleaning accidents outside the tray with white vinegar, which is an odor neutralizer, helps ensure that the tray only smells like where you're supposed to go. One final tip, choose a tray that is big enough for your rabbit to turn around easily and has room on one side for a handful of hay - rabbits love to eat and poop, and having hay in the tray is encourages its use. Don't always use the tray If your rabbit isn't spayed, it's likely that he's deliberately spilling feces outside the bowl to mark his territory - this usually improves after spaying. If your rabbit is still spilling poo after spaying, it may be that they have just gotten used to it and need a little retraining. The same techniques for a rabbit going next to the tray will help. If your rabbit has access to a very large area, e.g. several rooms, it can also help to temporarily restrict access a bit. The provision of multiple trays, i. H. one per room or one at each end of a room can be helpful. If there are certain areas your rabbit prefers, put a tray there, even if it happens to be in the middle of the room. Once your rabbit starts using the trays, you can gradually reduce the number and move them to more convenient locations. It is important that your rabbit gets used to using a tray. Again, moving droppings and providing hay will help encourage their use. Several rabbits Cohabiting neutered rabbits generally share one tray, but if you have trouble, provide two trays (or more). If it's a recent match, you might find that once they've had more time to settle in, they're more willing to share. Rabbits will often mark more when they are first introduced and will do less as they settle down. If you have multiple rabbits but they don't live together, you may find that your rabbit has left tracks even after spaying, particularly at the boundaries between pens. This is because there is a rival and they feel the need to make it very clear where their territory is. Placing an extra tray along the border may help as this may be enough to satisfy her desire to spread her scent. sofas & beds There are some spots that seem particularly tempting for rabbits to mark, and some rabbits will continue to mark these even when they are neutered and otherwise perfectly trained to be bedding. The most common areas are beds and sofas - these are areas that humans spend a lot of time resting on, meaning they contain a lot of smell for a rabbit. This may be a trigger for rabbits to add their own scent markers. It can be difficult to teach a rabbit not to mark these areas. It can be helpful to temporarily put an extra litter box in the area where your rabbit picks up the toilet—even if this isn't a place you would normally place a litter box, such as in a bedroom. B. the seat of your sofa. If you can train your rabbit to use a tray on your couch instead of the couch, you can gradually move the tray to a more appropriate spot. If that doesn't work, restricting access may be the only solution. It is very difficult to train a rabbit not to jump onto a sofa they are used to, so a physical barrier may be needed. If this isn't practical, you can protect your furniture by placing something over the area to protect it, e.g. B. a dog pad or a plastic cover, although this does not solve the problem. lose throwing practice As I mentioned earlier, it is common for a rabbit to lose their throwing training when they reach sexual maturity if they are not spayed. There are also several other reasons why a previously well-behaved rabbit may go to the toilet outside of the tray: New Territory - Rabbits will mark more when their territory changes, such as moving to a new home, getting a new cage, or redecorating you. Normally, this marking behavior will generally settle down over the next few weeks as they adjust to the change. - Rabbits will mark more when their territory changes, for example when they move to a new home, get a new cage or redecorate you. Normally, this marking behavior will generally settle down over the next few weeks as they adjust to the change. New Household Member - Adding a new rabbit or other pet to the household can also result in an increase in the rating. This is common when introducing your rabbit to a companion. Again, it will decrease as your rabbit gets used to the change. Unless the other pet is a new companion, your rabbit may continue to mark more, especially along borders. - The introduction of a new rabbit or other pet into the household can also increase the tag. This is common when introducing your rabbit to a companion. Again, it will decrease as your rabbit gets used to the change. Unless the other pet is a new companion, your rabbit may continue to mark more, especially along borders. A health issue - some health issues like a bladder infection, kidney stones and pain or mobility issues affecting your rabbit's ability to access his tray can cause your rabbit to lose his throwing practice. Visit your veterinarian for an exam if there is a sudden change in your rabbit's litter habits. - Some health issues like a bladder infection, kidney stones and pain or mobility issues affecting your rabbit's ability to access his tray can cause your rabbit to lose his throwing practice. Visit your veterinarian for an exam if there is a sudden change in your rabbit's litter habits. Other Changes - Many other changes can affect your rabbit's marking, for example using a new cleaning product can confuse his sense of smell and encourage additional marking. When your rabbit starts marking, try to think of any changes you've made to your rabbit or your household routine. Tagging can help a rabbit feel safe, so a little excitement or stress can be a trigger. Conclusion In summary, castration is an important part of litter training. If your rabbit isn't spayed, chances are you won't get perfect results. Make sure the tray is big and deep so your rabbit has plenty of space. If your rabbit has bad litter box habits, then: Make sure there is a clear distinction between the tablet and everything else After cleaning, return a little used litter to the bowl to keep the smell Transfer accidents to the compartment Place the tray where your rabbit goes - you can always adjust the position later Temporarily increase the number of bowls - especially if your rabbit has access to a large area or multiple rooms Check out the answers to more behavior problems Did this article help you understand your rabbit's behavior? If so, you might want to try my book: Understanding Your Rabbit's Habits

Do rabbits poop when scared?

Sometimes bunnies will make more than normal when they’re stressed or are getting too much sugar in their diet. This is okay as long as the bunny doesn’t get a messy bottom (by sitting on the cecos) and it doesn’t happen all the time. If it does, it might be time for a change of diet.

Treatment and Prevention

Guide to Bunny Poops

A big thank you to Christie Taylor for sharing this article with BUNS. Christine is an educator at the House Rabbit Society and holds a PhD in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology from the University of Miami Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine. You can find her on Twitter at @graamhoek.

This is a quick guide to rabbit poop. You can poop-o-gram a lot of data if you’re careful. Always consult your vet before changing your rabbit’s diet. If your rabbit hasn’t pooped in the last 24 hours, please take them to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Thank you to everyone who helped improve this guide!

bunny poops

Medium sized rabbits make 200-300 poops a day. They should be uniform in size and shape, meaning round and the size of a pea to a chickpea. Your rabbit’s size doesn’t always predict the size of its poop.

Do bunnies like fresh air?

Indoor rabbits will benefit from time outside so they can get some fresh air and enjoy some fresh grass. However, the sudden change in temperature when going from a warm house to a cold garden can come as a big surprise for them.

Treatment and Prevention

We may see rabbits as traditional outdoor pets, but like any other pet, they freeze and can suffer from inclement weather if they don’t have the right home to live in. We’ve answered some of your questions about the best places to keep rabbits over the coming months.

Jump to questions:

Is it better to keep my rabbits indoors or outdoors?

Both indoor and outdoor rabbits can live happy, healthy lives, so it’s up to you and your bunny friends to decide if indoors or outdoors is best for them (or maybe even a combination of both!). Just remember that having the right facility for your rabbits and making sure you can provide them with everything they need is far more important than keeping your rabbits indoors or outdoors. Indoors or outdoors, a pair of rabbits needs at least 3m x 2m x 1m (10ft x 6ft x 3ft) of space, but the more the better! Would you like to know more? Read our advice on creating an ideal home for your rabbits.

Should I bring my outdoor rabbits inside when it gets cold?

Many people worry about their outdoor rabbits freezing during the winter months, so you might consider moving your rabbits to a warmer place when the temperature drops. A good option is to move them to a shed or car-free garage, especially if the temperature drops below freezing. If you decide to bring your rabbits into your home, keep in mind that they can take a few days to adjust to large temperature changes. It can be difficult for them to suddenly move them from the cool outside air to a warm room in your home. Try moving them before the outside temperature gets too cold, or consider putting them in a sheltered spot for a few days first so they can acclimate to a slightly warmer temperature, e.g. B. in a shed or porch before bringing them inside.

How Can I Keep My Outdoor Rabbits Warm This Winter?

There are many things you can do to keep your bunnies warm during the colder months. You should always ensure that your rabbits are kept in an area protected from wind and rain. When it gets colder, give them plenty of extra bedding (e.g. hay or straw) to keep them warm and make sure they have plenty of tunnels or houses to snuggle into. It’s also a good idea to try covering their coop with an old blanket or a piece of rug – just make sure they can’t reach it through the bars if they tend to chew things they shouldn’t ! Remember to check their water bowls and bottles every day to make sure they aren’t freezing. If the temperature drops below freezing, you can wrap the bottles in a blanket or towel, or buy a cozy bottle so it doesn’t freeze (but don’t forget to check the spout is still working!).

I brought my rabbit inside, it’s colder now so he spends a lot of time with me. Does he still need a rabbit for company?

Pet rabbits still need the company of another rabbit to be happy. Even though many of us are more at home at the moment, unfortunately we can’t be with our rabbits 24/7! Since we are humans and not rabbits, we cannot give them everything they need to be happy. Having a bunny friend will also give your bunny a companion to snuggle with this winter. For more information, see our veterinarian Q&A on keeping rabbits company.

Can I still bring my indoor rabbits into the garden in winter?

Indoor rabbits benefit from time outside so they can get some fresh air and enjoy some fresh grass. However, the sudden change in temperature when moving from a warm house to a cold garden can come as a big surprise to them. Try to give them regular access outside as the seasons change so they have time to adjust. It is also very important that they have free access to come back inside if they get cold and plenty of houses, hiding places or tunnels filled with hay or straw to keep them warm.

If you want to learn more about keeping rabbits warm in winter, check out our free guide.

About PDSA Vets We’ve compiled advice from our vet team on PDSA. We have compiled advice from our veterinary team for PDSA.

Do rabbits sleep sitting up?

When your bunny is snoozing, he lies on his stomach with his back legs behind him stretched out or sideways. You may even see him sleep upright. If your bunny is upright and you want to know if he’s sleeping, check his ears. If his ears are folded down on his head, that’s a sign he’s asleep.

Treatment and Prevention

Sleeping habits of Hoppy Bunnys

After a long winter, it’s hard to resist the cuteness of a bunny in spring. When their children ask them for a bunny, many parents relent. After all, they’re cute and fluffy—and bunnies don’t need to be walked like a dog.

But there are certain facts about rabbits – namely their sleeping habits – that you might want to consider before welcoming a bunny into your home.

When rabbits sleep

Rabbits keep a watchful eye out for attackers — whether they’re in the wild, in a cage, or safe in your home — because they’re conditioned to be on the lookout for predators. To ensure your pet bunny gets enough rest, you want to provide him with a safe and quiet environment with comfortable beds.

Rabbits are “day sleepers,” sleeping about six to eight hours each day. Rabbits, similar to deer, are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dusk and dawn. (In case you didn’t know, the word “crepuscular” derives from the Latin word crepusculum, meaning “twilight.”)

Because rabbits are nocturnal, they are ready to play at night after sleeping most of the day. Chances are your bunny will be most active around 8pm. Although you may be tempted to train your rabbit to stay awake during the day and sleep at night, you go against their natural instincts and may find the task a bit challenging.

If you or your children want to play with your rabbit, it is best to do so early in the morning and early at night when they are awake and active.

Where rabbits sleep

Rabbits in the wild build tunnels in the ground that they use for their homes. The tunnel systems they create are known as enclosures and include areas for the rabbit to sleep and nest. Rabbits create multiple entrances to their burrow so they can escape quickly if necessary. According to the Young People’s Trust for the Environment, a rabbit can create an enclosure that is often as much as 12 feet (3.84 meters) underground.

How rabbits sleep

When your bunny is dozing, he will lie on his stomach with his hind legs stretched out behind him or to the side. You can even see him sleeping upright. If your rabbit is standing up and you want to know if he’s sleeping, check his ears. If his ears are upside down, that’s a sign he’s sleeping.

Unique habits of sleeping rabbits

Sleeping bunnies have some unique habits that you should familiarize yourself with before owning:

Asleep – or not? Your bunny may appear as if he is sound asleep, but you will find that he is instantly awake when disturbed. This is because his brain continues to actively send signals to other parts of his body, causing heavy breathing, rapid eye movements, and instant waking up. In this phase of sleep you would be dreaming. Your rabbit is having a kind of “dream sleep” at this point.

Atonic and Myoclonic Movement – Your rabbit’s body will experience atonic and myoclonic movement symptoms. Sleeping rabbits appear more fluid and flexible (atonic), but also show symptoms of involuntary twitching (myoclonic movements) and rapid eye movements.

You may notice that your rabbit sleeps with its eyes open. You may also see your bunny fall to the ground as if he has just lost the strength in his body and turn onto his side. This is his body experiencing an atonic state. This may worry you if you are new to bunny keeping, but you will get used to it as it happens regularly.

Grinds its teeth – Another thing you may notice is that your rabbit grinds its teeth. If you pet his head, you might even feel his cheek and chin vibrate. This is how your rabbit purrs (yes, like a cat). Don’t worry; it is a good sign that he is happy and content.

If you’re getting a new bunny this Easter, remember that sleeping bunnies don’t like to be disturbed, even at playtime. If you do, he might wake up grumpy and even try to bite you. Let him sleep and save playtime for later in the evening or first thing in the morning.

And remember, bunnies don’t eat gummy bears.

Why are bunnies so messy?

Since the majority of a bunny’s diet is hay, this means hay will be everywhere, (even if your bunny is confined to a section of your house). Hay is messy. Bunnies also shed an incredible amount of hair. They typically go into a heavy shed 3-4 times a year, but other bunnies seem to shed a great deal daily.

Treatment and Prevention

Is a rabbit the right pet for me?

Bunnies are adorable, but are you ready for one? Most people don’t spend a lot of time thinking about rabbits and would be surprised to know that these are intelligent animals that display a wide range of emotions and personalities. Let’s point out some facts about rabbits to help you decide if they would fit your lifestyle. Remember that a rabbit depends on you for food, shelter and company. Can you take care of him?​ ​ ​

Rabbits live an average of 10 years

Most people think rabbits only live 2 or 3 years and are surprised to learn that rabbits can live a very long time. This makes rabbits a long-term commitment. What if you move, get married, have kids, go to college? Will your bunny stay with you all the time? Of course, a rabbit’s longevity isn’t a bad thing. This way you can enjoy the company of your rabbits for many years.

Rabbits cannot live outdoors and should not live in a cage

As mentioned in Rabbit Care, pet rabbits cannot live outdoors due to environmental conditions and the presence of predators. They should also never be released into the wild. Pet rabbits don’t have the survival instinct to survive and die quickly. Cages and pens are also unsuitable housing because they are not large enough or well designed. Wire subfloors can severely damage rabbit feet. Pet rabbits make fun and wonderful companions. They can sit with you while you watch TV or snuggle your feet while sitting at your desk. They quickly find out that when they open the refrigerator door, there will soon be something delicious to eat. They can learn tricks and be good company.

Rabbits are messy, especially unmodified babies

Many rabbit advocates will tell you that bunnies are clean animals. While this may be true in the sense that they won’t run outside and wallow in the mud or bring home dead mice and birds, you shouldn’t expect your home to stay clean. Since the majority of a bunny’s diet is hay, this means that hay will be everywhere (even if your bunny is confined to one part of your home). Hay is messy. Rabbits also lose an incredible amount of hair. They usually go into a heavy coop 3-4 times a year, but other rabbits seem to lose a lot on a daily basis. Be prepared for the presence of real dust bunnies. That means a significant amount of work is required to keep your home reasonably clean.

Unchanged babies can be particularly messy. While you wait for them to be old enough to have surgery, they’ll throw hay around and have deplorable litter box skills. They will also mark their territory, which includes spraying urine. This nasty habit decreases when rabbits are spayed or neutered, but they still do when introduced to a new territory or rabbit companion.

Rabbits are exotic

Although rabbits are becoming increasingly popular as pets, not every vet will see them, and even if you do find one, they may not be very experienced in treating rabbits. They are still classified as exotic, which means vet visits are usually more expensive than for a dog or cat. Check out our recommended vets for the one closest to you.

Rabbits hate being picked up and cuddled. They are fragile and not suitable for children

Bunnies, especially babies, are irresistibly cute. They look like they’re just begging to be picked up and cuddled. In fact, the rabbit is afraid. Rabbits are prey animals and the act of being picked up and held is a frightening experience for them. If you insist on picking them up, they may bite and scratch – both of which can be extremely painful. Children can unintentionally be rough on rabbits. If mishandled, they can break a rabbit’s back or legs. They’d rather sit next to you (or if you happen to be lying on the ground, they’ll happily climb onto your back and gaze out at the view from there.) ​ Because rabbits are prey animals, it’s important to establish a level of trust between you and them your rabbit. This involves investing time in getting to know the rabbit (and vice versa). Once a rabbit trusts you, you will have a rewarding relationship between you and your pet.

So why should I consider a rabbit as a pet?

There’s more to rabbits than meets the eye. They are intelligent, sociable and passionate animals. They can learn their names, what’s acceptable and what’s not, and they can even learn tricks. There are even clubs around the world that practice rabbit agility (although rabbits are trained differently than dogs). They enjoy company but can be picky about who they spend their time with. Just as you have your preferences about who you have as friends, so do rabbits.

Some rabbits are easygoing and willing to accept anyone, other rabbits prefer the company of a particular rabbit or human. However, there are other rabbits who will make their preferences very clear and will do everything in their power to let you know what they think.

Where do you put a rabbit when cleaning the cage?

Put your rabbit in a safe place.
  1. Allow your rabbit to hop freely through your home if it uses the cage only as a home base. If not, make sure your rabbit is in an area that is secured from other animals or potential escape. …
  2. Give your rabbit leafy greens or food pellets while you clean.

Treatment and Prevention

Mostly free. Clean up afterwards is essential. wikiHow showed me exactly how to keep my rabbit cage clean.”

…”

“I have just bought a rabbit! The information provided is very clear, my rabbit lives in a large area with a cage. No hutch.

How do I get rid of rabbit poop in my yard?

What Should You Do if Rabbits Poop in Your Yard? Any rabbit feces in your yard should be picked up using a shovel or pet poop-scooper. Then, the feces should be bagged and thrown into your trash containers. Avoid contact with rabbit poop.

Treatment and Prevention

If you find rabbit droppings in your yard, dispose of them in your dumpster, not your green waste bin. It is important to keep rabbit species completely out of your yard to prevent future rabbit droppings. You can keep rabbits away by spraying rabbit-repellent scents or by growing plants that rabbits don’t like, like marigolds and mint. To get rid of rabbits that have invaded your garden, humanely capture and release the rabbits. Then install a rabbit-proof fence to prevent these pests from returning.

What should you do if rabbits poop in your yard?

Any rabbit droppings in your yard should be picked up with a scoop or animal droppings scoop. Then the feces should be bagged and thrown into your dumpsters. Avoid contact with rabbit droppings. Rabbits are wild animals that harbor diseases and parasites. So make sure children and pets are kept at a safe distance.

Use a long-handled tool to scoop rabbit poop from your yard into a bag.

Seal the bag containing the rabbit poop.

Dispose of rabbit droppings in the trash.

Never throw rabbit droppings in a green waste bin.

Do not throw rabbit droppings in the green waste bin. Feces of any kind are biowaste and should not be mixed with grass clippings, tree clippings and other natural materials. The safest way to dispose of rabbit poop is to put it in a bag, seal the bag completely, and then dispose of it with other non-green waste.

4 ways to get rid of rabbit poop in your yard

Rabbit droppings are a nuisance that can ruin your yard’s aesthetics and make your pets sick if they eat a pile of rabbit pellets. The best way to keep rabbit droppings out of your yard is to keep rabbits out completely. Below we will discuss the most common ways to keep rabbits out of your yard.

Spray rabbit repellent

You don’t have to deal with rabbit droppings in your yard if rabbits are put off by the smell of your yard. A rabbit repellent or repellent keeps rabbits out of your yard. Bottled predator urine is a type of rabbit repellent. When sprayed on fences and other surfaces, it signals rabbits that predators are nearby. They will then avoid your garden.

Repellents like urine from natural predators can help repel rabbits.

Chemical repellents can also be used provided they are safe to use around plants that you may consume.

It is generally more effective to use a chemical repellent rather than predator urine. Use this combination of deer and rabbit repellent to protect your garden from pests. Be sure to use extra repellent anywhere you see rabbit tracks or other signs of rabbits. When this is safe, additionally distribute it around your tender shoots and on your flower bed. This deters rabbits from invading your garden.

Set humane traps

Catching rabbits appropriately and releasing them elsewhere is an effective way to protect your yard from rabbit droppings. Humane rabbit traps that confine rabbits in place can be used to capture and release these pests. Be sure to place traps near rabbit trails, damaged garden plants, and under buildings. Bait rabbit traps with foods they love – lettuce, carrots, apples and Brussels sprouts.

Use this humane trap to catch rabbits and prevent them from damaging your garden.

Place humane traps near rabbit paths, buildings for them to hide under, and garden plants for them to eat.

Release humanely captive rabbits in a wildlife park or state forest.

Note that rabbit traps may not be caught as fast as the population can multiply.

Catching all of the resident rabbits can be a difficult task. Rabbits are smart and breed quickly. You may not be able to catch them all fast enough to offset the population growth.

Grow rabbit deterrent plants

Most tender plants are a great food source for rabbits, but there are some plants that wild rabbits can’t stand the smell of. Basil (either Christmas-themed or spicy kugel varieties), lavender, leeks and onions, marigolds, mint, and oregano will deter all rabbits. Filling your vegetable gardens with these types of plants can drive rabbits out of your yard.

Certain plants repel rabbits and are less likely to be eaten by them.

Plant mint, marigolds, and lavender to keep the bunnies at bay.

Garden vegetables like leeks and onions are also great for deterring rabbits.

Although these plants won’t repel rabbits with their smell, rabbits will avoid chewing on them. This is how you avoid damage to your garden. Also, rabbits will likely look elsewhere for food, preferably in a garden full of plants that they enjoy eating. When rabbits don’t eat the plants you grow, it means fewer rabbit droppings in your yard.

Install a rabbit-proof fence

Chicken wire is a great barrier and a key component in perimeter fences that keep rabbits out of your yard. This sturdy but thin mesh can keep most small mammals out and is relatively inexpensive. Simply zip-tie chicken wire to a couple of posts to block rabbit access. If rabbits can’t enter your yard, they can’t poop there.

A fence is a great way to protect your yard from animal damage and droppings.

Chicken wire is generally considered the best and cheapest way to deter active rabbits.

Use this chain link fence to keep adult rabbits and other species out. Check your fence regularly for damage from larger predators or other animals. A single large hole can render the entire fence ineffective, so catch problems early.

Will Rabbit Poo Hurt Your Lawn?

Not only is rabbit droppings good for your lawn, they can even be a good fertilizer for the right plants. The real problem with rabbits is that they will devour your plants and dig holes everywhere.

Rabbit poop pellets can actually be beneficial for your lawn.

Rabbit droppings are unsafe for pets, so it’s best to dispose of or compost any rabbit pellets quickly.

Rabbit droppings can be dangerous for pets who may eat them. For this reason, discard the feces quickly or make them safe by composting before using them. Make sure that you only throw rabbit droppings in the household waste and not in the green waste bin.

How long does it take for rabbit poop to decompose?

Typically, rabbit feces decompose within 180 days. However, you can decompose rabbit poop faster by composing. Rabbit feces decomposition time depends on many variable factors, including temperature, humidity, and local populations of microbes and insects that might eat the feces.

Rabbit feces decompose in about 180 days.

The exact time for rabbit feces to decompose depends on temperature, weather, and other local factors.

Learn to brew compost tea to speed up the decomposition process.

By making compost tea, you can decompose rabbit feces in just 3-5 days. To make compost tea, place rabbit feces pellets in a compost bin of at least 5 gallons. Add equal parts organic compost and 1/2 cup of worm food. Lastly, add enough water to fill your container. Leave the mixture on for three to five days. You can then fertilize your lawn with this infusion.

How do you keep rabbits from pooping in your yard?

Rabbit droppings must be disposed of or composted as soon as you find them. While it is beneficial to lawns, it can be dangerous to other animals as it decomposes. To prevent rabbits from pooping in your yard, you need to keep them completely out of your yard. Here are a few important things to keep in mind when trying to prevent rabbits from pooping in your yard:

Rabbit droppings should be disposed of or composted as soon as possible.

Make sure that you only throw rabbit droppings in the household waste bin, not in the green waste bin.

Use rabbit repellents, traps, or fences to keep your yard free of rabbit droppings.

Rabbit pellets will not harm your lawn, but can harm your pets if consumed.

Rabbit feces naturally decompose in 180 days.

You can speed up the decomposition process by learning to make compost tea.

Be sure to contact your local garden center for more advice on controlling local pests. They should have plenty of advice on how best to deal with resident rabbits.

How many Cecotropes do rabbits produce?

Average sized bunnies will make 200-300 poops per day. They should be uniform in size and shape which means rounded and pea to garbanzo sized. The size of your bunny won’t always predict the size of their poops.

Treatment and Prevention

Guide to Bunny Poops

A big thank you to Christie Taylor for sharing this article with BUNS. Christine is an educator at the House Rabbit Society and holds a PhD in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology from the University of Miami Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine. You can find her on Twitter at @graamhoek.

This is a quick guide to rabbit poop. You can poop-o-gram a lot of data if you’re careful. Always consult your vet before changing your rabbit’s diet. If your rabbit hasn’t pooped in the last 24 hours, please take them to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Thank you to everyone who helped improve this guide!

bunny poops

Medium sized rabbits make 200-300 poops a day. They should be uniform in size and shape, meaning round and the size of a pea to a chickpea. Your rabbit’s size doesn’t always predict the size of its poop.

Best Vacuum for Rabbit Hay in 2022 – Reviewed

Best Vacuum for Rabbit Hay in 2022 – Reviewed
Best Vacuum for Rabbit Hay in 2022 – Reviewed


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The 7 Very Best Vacuum for Rabbit Hay & Poop In 2022

This post contains affiliate links and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.

The constant cleaning up after your rabbits can be exhausting.

This is especially true when you try to completely clear out his living quarters and in less than five minutes the hay is again littered with droppings, forage and other debris.

If you are familiar with this struggle, consider investing in a vacuum cleaner for your rabbit’s enclosure or living space.

Fortunately, you don’t have to look far to find the perfect vacuum cleaner for your needs. We’ve made it easy for you and collected xx of the best vacuum cleaners for rabbits.

Our best vacuum cleaner for rabbits

This post may contain affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate & Chewy partner, we earn from qualifying purchases.

7 Best Vacuum Cleaner For Rabbits: Reviewed

Rabbit vacuums need a lot of suction to pick up these fine hairs.

But the biggest problem is the filter system. Otherwise, the hay dust will be sprayed around your home, irritating the eyes and lungs of allergy sufferers and asthmatics.

Therefore, we have made sure that all of the following suggestions have exceptional filtering.

Best Overall Vacuum for Rabbits: Dyson Ball Animal 2

Weight 24 lbs Corded or Cordless Corded Pouch or Bagless Bagless Battery Life N/A Max Noise Level 78.8 dB Warranty 5 years

The Dyson Ball Animal 2 uses a HEPA filtration system throughout the machine to prevent animal fur and hay dust from being blown back out when vacuuming.

It also has a specially designed compartment with snap button deflation to avoid spills and messes.

Because the Dyson stands upright, it has some weight. But it steers with little effort and thanks to its ball technology you can also get into tricky and hard-to-reach places.

The suction power adjusts itself depending on whether you roll it over carpet or hard floors. In addition, the motorized brush bar is sturdy and picks up and lifts hair, dirt, hay and even ground debris.

Benefits Full HEPA filtration

Dirt-free emptying

Self-regulating suction Cons You have to lift 24 pounds on stairs

Best Stationary Vacuum for Rabbits: EyeVac Pet

Best Stationary Vacuum Cleaner EyeVac Pet Effectively pick up rabbit hay and feces

Features a HEPA exhaust filter

Designed with double filters to promote cleaner air. Click here to buy price

Weight 14 lbs Corded or Cordless Cordless Pouch or Bagless Bagless Battery Life N/A Max Noise 75 dB Warranty 1 year

The EyeVac Pet no-touch stationary vacuum is designed to pick up pet hair, dust, crumbs and dirt.

It acts as a highly efficient filtration system to clean the air in your home and as a dustpan. For the latter, you sweep and it automatically picks up anything dry thanks to its motion sensors. (Be sure to place it near low, floating curtains.)

The air system sucks in pollen, dust mites, dust, smoke and mold. This is a big bonus when hay dust is swirling around.

The filter system cleans your air and then returns it nice and clean. Excellent for families struggling with asthma or allergies.

Benefits Cleans the air

Absorbs dirt

Won’t chase your pets Cons Doesn’t work for carpets and is difficult to drag to other rooms

Best Budget Vacuum for Rabbits: Bissell Pet Hair Eraser Handheld

Weight 3.7 lbs Cord or Cordless – 16ft Bag or Bagless Bagless Battery Life N/A Max Noise 71dB Warranty 1 year

The Bissell Pet Hair Eraser Handheld is an affordable, high-performance option.

The eraser comes with two nozzles, one for carpets and upholstery and one for hard surfaces. The former really shines and sucks hair, hay and dirt out of the fibers.

It’s bagless, but there’s a HEPA filter for easy cleaning if needed.

The Eraser Handheld isn’t cordless, but making a machine that powerful and cordless would add a lot to the price tag. Thankfully, the cable is generous at 16 feet.

Benefits Powerful

HEPA filter

Special nozzle for carpets and upholstery Disadvantages No option for cordless operation

Best Handheld Vacuum for Rabbits: Bissell Pet Hair Handheld Vacuum

Weight 3 lbs Wired or Cordless Cordless Pouch or Bagless Bagless Battery Life 17 min Max Noise 71 dB Warranty 1 year

The Bissell Pet Hair Eraser Lithium Ion is a powerful yet lightweight pet that can vacuum hair and hay from anywhere.

His essays will help you tackle specific tasks, such as: B. padding or cracks. It’s also so easy to empty, so there’s no need to clean up the mess again.

The Bissell Pet Hair Vacuum also features a motorized brush tool to loosen and remove dirt and debris from hay.

It also includes a crevice and upholstery nozzle, making it ideal for cleaning hard-to-reach areas.

Benefits Lightweight

Strong suction power

Wireless Cons Its length makes it awkward to use in tight spaces

Best Upright Vacuum Cleaner for Rabbits: Shark Navigator S2 Lift Away

Best Upright Vacuum Cleaner Shark Navigator S2 Lift Away Designed for pet owners

Anti-allergen total sealing technology

Dust bin capacity 2.2 liters Click for the price

Weight 13.7 lbs Corded or Cordless Corded Pouch or Bagless Bagless Battery Life N/A Max Noise 77 dB Warranty 1 year

The Shark Navigator Lift Away is an affordable pet hair stand and features a sealed HEPA filtration system to ensure no hay dust escapes.

In addition, the Shark is much easier to maneuver because it is relatively light and has pivoting steering.

It also features a detachable pod if you need to tackle those hard-to-reach areas.

Pros Sealed HEPA filtration system

Payable

Not too heavy Cons Too bulky for stairs

Best Robot Vacuum Cleaner for Rabbits: iRobot Roomba i7

Best Robot Vacuum iRobot Roomba i7 Learns your cleaning habits and suggests cleaning schedules

Wi-Fi and Alexa capabilities

Powerful suction effortlessly tackles dirt Click For Price

Weight 7.44 lbs Corded or Cordless Cordless Pocket or Bagless Yes, in the docking station. Battery life 90 min Max. noise 60 dB Warranty 1 year

The Roomba i7 is such a fantastic help around the house that you’ll want to give it a name.

Unlike older Roomba designs like the 675, the i7 has smart features so it doesn’t clean in random patterns. It also has a spot cleaning mode when your pet made an unexpected mess.

In addition, it has Wi-Fi and Alexa capabilities, so you can control it via an app or your voice.

This Roomba model is also designed to handle pet hair. It also has variable suction, a HEPA filter, cyclonic action, carpet height adjustment and is self-cleaning.

The i7 takes care of its own clutter, dumping into an easy-to-change bag that’s kept by its charging dock.

Benefits Empty into a pocket at the docking station

Intelligent mapping

Wi-Fi and Alexa capabilities Cons Expensive

Best Cordless Vacuum Cleaner for Rabbits: Dyson Cyclone V10 Animal

Best Cordless Vacuum Cleaner Dyson Cyclone V10 Animal Easily vacuum up your rabbit hay thanks to its powerful digital motor

Power-saving quick release

Three Performance Modes Click for price

Weight 11.58 lbs Wired or wireless Cordless case or bagless case Battery life 60 min Max noise 78.8 dB Warranty 2 years

The Dyson Cyclone V10 Animal is a fantastic choice if you have stairs. It has an excellent filter system, is easy and clean to empty and has excellent suction power.

There’s a V11 option that gives you the handy LCD screen. However, it is louder, takes longer to charge and weighs more.

Weight can be a big issue for many, especially when climbing stairs, which is why the V10 is so great.

Benefits Wireless

Lighter than most powered upright options

Draws out dust Cons Does not have an LCD screen like the V11

Why do I need a vacuum cleaner for my rabbit?

Rabbits make a lot of messes, although they’re pretty good at dumping their waste in a specific area.

As they bounce and move, debris is scattered on the ground and in the air.

The hay can be particularly problematic as it is a significant lung irritant for allergy sufferers and asthmatics.

Using a vacuum is also the best way to remove dust, dirt, and rabbit hair from floors and other surfaces.

How do I choose a vacuum cleaner for my rabbit?

Trying to choose the right vacuum type can feel overwhelming.

An excellent way to approach the task is to find vacuum cleaners within your budget and then consider the following criteria:

suction power

HEPA filter

Areas to be vacuumed

battery

What vacuum suction power is required?

Rabbit hair is exceptionally silky and fine and can escape weaker vacuum cleaners.

So it is important to have the high suction power to capture it.

On average, anything over 100 Air Watts is good when combined with proper cleaning tools.

The more powerful your vacuum cleaner is, the better, but usually the louder it is. The best way to choose a vacuum cleaner is to find the balance between noise reduction and quality suction.

What are HEPA filters and are they necessary?

The abbreviation HEPA stands for “High-Efficiency Particulate Air” and is now a general term for high-performance filters.

HEPA vacuum filters capture smaller particles that would otherwise go unnoticed by your vacuum bags. Allergy sufferers benefit from this and everyone breathes better air.

A HEPA filter captures dangerous particles by forcing air through a small mesh.

Commercial vacuums with HEPA filters capture 99.97 percent of airborne particles down to 0.3 microns in size, such as dust, pet dander, smoke, mold and other allergens, improving air quality.

Because dust mite and pollen particles are quite large, you don’t need a HEPA filter to stop them.

Any decent vacuum should be able to get rid of pet hair and dander. Even without a HEPA filter, normal vacuum cleaners pick up pet hair.

However, if you’re considering a vacuum specifically for removing hay, rabbit hair, and other allergens, a HEPA filter would be extremely useful, although not essential.

Consider which areas will be vacuumed

When deciding which vacuum to buy for your rabbit, it’s important to consider the area you want to clean. Both the floor area and the size of the area play a role in this decision.

For example, if you’re only buying a vacuum for a small, enclosed area that your rabbits will be in, then your wisest choice would be a stationary or handheld vacuum.

You also have to do without long battery life or expensive accessories in this case.

On the other hand, if you want to buy a vacuum cleaner for everyday use and for cleaning up hay and other debris in your rabbit run.

then you may consider spending a little more money for an upright corded vacuum with more features and accessories.

Battery life

There are two things to consider when looking for wireless options:

How long is the battery life?

How long does charging take?

A longer charging time may be worth a slightly shorter battery life.

Conclusion

The best vacuum cleaner for rabbits is the Dyson Ball Animal 2

Not only is it great at picking up dust and rabbit hair, but it can also be converted into a handheld vacuum to reach those hard-to-reach spots that other vacuums might miss.

frequently asked Questions

We have summarized your most important questions to give you the answers you need.

How often should I vacuum?

Vacuuming an entire room more than once or twice a week is tedious.

So it’s good to have a small handheld to deal with spot clutter. Additionally, keeping a stationary vacuum near the cage is a big help if you’re particularly sensitive to hay dust.

It purifies the air and its sensors suck in everything in its vicinity.

Does vacuuming remove hay and rabbit droppings?

A sturdy vacuum that can handle pet poo can remove hay and poo, provided it’s not too soft.

Inspect the filter systems and brushes to make sure they don’t clog easily.

How do I maintain the suction power of my vacuum cleaner?

You can maintain the suction power of your vacuum cleaner by regularly checking and emptying the dust container.

Regularly clean the filters, clean the suction brush and avoid clogging of the suction tube.

Can I suckle around my rabbit?

Vacuuming around rabbits can be difficult. Some are more sensitive to others.

They often adapt to a stationary or robotic vacuum cleaner.

But it’s best to move the rabbits when using larger machines.

Can I suckle my rabbit?

Suction brushes are not ideal for rabbits. You are sensitive to noise.

If you’re concerned about the dust, brush them near a stationary vacuum, which will clean the air without startling your pet.

Cleaning after your rabbit

As the owner of one or more rabbits, there is no way around hay and fur getting into your home. Below are some tools and tips to help you clean up after your bun.

cleaning tips

Below are links that describe the regular cleaning you need to do with a pet rabbit.

The Bunny Lady. How to keep your rabbit run clean and smelling nice

Clean and disinfect stains

There are several safe products you can use to remove urine stains your rabbit may have left. The following are particularly useful as they break down the traces of urine odor that simple soap and water can’t eliminate. Any hint of such odors can lead to regular re-marking and poor bedding habits.

Be careful and don’t use harsh chemicals like bleach and ammonia around your rabbit, as rabbits like to lick and chew anything in sight. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and allow it to dry completely before returning your rabbit to any surfaces that have been cleaned with it.

Below are some links with more information on rabbit safe cleaning products.

dr Brigitte Lord. (2018). disinfectant

brooms and brushes

Rubber is good for attracting animal fur to your floor for easy cleaning. They are particularly effective on carpets and carpets, scavenging most bits of hay and fur. However, you still need to follow up with a vacuum with an impact brush to remove dust and especially small bits of hay embedded in the fibers.

vacuum cleaner

Commercial household vacuums are not usually well equipped to pick up whole stalks of hay off the floor. The best way to clean the floor is to first use a broom and your hands to pick up most of the hay and droppings, and only then use the vacuum to remove the rest of the lint and dust.

Some owners like to use shop vacuums instead, as they can usually pick up hay with no problem. However, these vacuums are extremely noisy and rabbits will likely need to be moved to another room before using the vacuum to prevent them from being overly startled by the sudden noise.

When hay is clogged in the pipes, snake drain clogging tools are great for pulling out the hay caught in tricky corners.

Some considerations to keep in mind when choosing a vacuum cleaner: Width of the cleaning path

motorized brush for carpets and rugs

cable length

packed or bagless

suction power

Easily clear clogged areas when they are inevitably full of hay

Charging time and usage time for wireless options

total weight

Price

The following is a list of vacuum cleaners that rabbit owners have used with varying degrees of success:

upright

canister

Buy vacuum

Handy

Treatment and Prevention

Poopy butt is the less eloquent term to describe a relatively common problem affecting domestic rabbits. Poopy butt is, just as it sounds, a condition where a bunny has feces stuck to its bottom. This article will discuss ways to keep your rabbit clean and in good digestive health.

First things first – if your rabbit has a messy butt, you need to clean the area as soon as possible. A dirty floor could lead to a fly strike, a very unpleasant and potentially deadly situation where flies lay their eggs on your rabbit and the hatched larvae feed on your rabbit’s meat.

Baths can be very traumatic for rabbits, so avoid baths if possible and only spot clean the area with a damp paper towel. However, if the feces have hardened and the area is very messy, the next course of action is a shallow bath. Fill a sink with a few inches of warm water (just enough to submerge the stained area) and mix in a dollop of pet shampoo (NOT human shampoo). Put your rabbit in the bath and wash the soiled area until it is clean. Change the water as needed. Be careful when washing the area as the skin is very sensitive! Once your rabbit is clean, rinse the soaped areas with warm water and then gently towel dry your rabbit. Make sure your rabbit isn’t exposed to cold temperatures before they’re completely dry.

Now that you have a clean bunny, you need to determine the cause of the messy bottom so it doesn’t happen again. In general, rabbits do not suffer from true diarrhea. Instead, the feces you’re likely to see are uningested cecotropes. Rabbits pass two different types of feces. Most people are familiar with the hard, dry fecal pellets that a well-trained rabbit will pour down a litter box. But rabbits also excrete cecotropes, softer, moister feces that they normally ingest directly from their buttocks. Eating cecotropes, or coprophagy, is a healthy activity for rabbits that helps keep their digestive tracts in balance. This is also a way for rabbits to get an optimal amount of nutrients from their food.

However, when this normal digestive cycle is disrupted, the result is poopy butt. This is usually due to poor nutrition. Does your rabbit have access to unlimited fresh timothy hay (or alfalfa if your rabbit is under 7 months)? The core of your rabbit’s diet should consist of fibrous foods like hay and vegetables. Fiber keeps rabbits’ teeth worn down and their digestive systems healthy. You should also avoid feeding your rabbit too many starchy foods, such as bread, fruit, or other treats. For a complete list of acceptable foods for your rabbit, see the article What Should I Feed My Rabbit?.

Mobility issues can also cause your rabbit to suffer from poopy butt. Older rabbits, obese rabbits, or those with arthritis may have trouble reaching their bottoms, preventing them from consuming the cecotrope. If your rabbit is overweight, reduce or eliminate pellets from their diet and provide unlimited timothy hay and fresh greens. For rabbits with arthritis, your rabbit veterinarian may be able to prescribe an anti-inflammatory medication to help relieve the condition.

Another cause of poopy butt is molar spurs. Sometimes rabbits’ teeth wear unevenly, resulting in sharp edges that dig into their cheeks. The pain and stress caused by molar spurs will upset your digestive health. To treat this, a rabbit-savvy vet will need to file down the sharp edges.

So, if switching to a higher-fiber diet doesn’t prevent the poop from appearing, take your rabbit to a rabbit-experienced vet to check for molars, digestive problems, parasites, or other infections.

Further information

Krempels, Dana, Ph.D., “The Mystery of Rabbit Poop”, http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/poop.html

Krempels, Dana, Ph.D., “Bathing a Rabbit’s Messy Bottom”, http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/buttbath.html

Krempels, Dana, Ph.D., “Dental Problems in Rabbits: Common but Rarely Diagnosed!”, http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/dental.html

About the Author Abi Cushman is an experienced house rabbit owner and Associate Editor of My House Rabbit.

When she’s not writing about bunnies for My House Rabbit, Abi writes and illustrates fun books for children, including Soaked! (Viking, 2020) and Animals Go Vroom! (Vikings, 2021). And yes, there are rabbits in them.

Learn more at her website www.abicushman.com or follow her on Twitter: @abicushman and Instagram: @abi.cushman.

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