Best Weed Wacker For Blackberries? All Answers

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Bramble bushes produce nutritious, tasty berries, but are considered a noxious weed in some areas because they can spread quickly and form dense thickets of thorny canes.

In this article, I will share 7 ways you can remove blackberry bushes from your garden.

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Blackberry seeds are easily spread by birds for their sweet, juicy berries.

Bramble bushes are often found along roads, near orchards and in backyard gardens where they can become a real nuisance if left unchecked.

Their dense thickets stunt the growth of native plants, reduce fodder for livestock and make mowing difficult.

Bramble bushes can form large patches that can cover several acres of land over time if left unmanaged.

Bramble bushes also produce an abundance of fruits that are attractive to animals and birds.

If you don’t tick this, your bramble patch could become a sanctuary for all manner of wildlife.

Because of their sharp thorns, blackberries are also dangerous for children and pets.

How to remove blackberry bushes

The best way to remove bramble bushes is to take a multifaceted approach that ensures all parts of the plant are removed before new growth has a chance to take root in your garden.

This prevents them from spreading and ensures healthy growth for other plants in your garden.

There are several effective ways to remove bramble bushes from your yard, including digging, cutting, burning, and using herbicides.

Each method has its pros and cons and you may need to try a few different methods to completely eradicate the bramble bushes.

1. Cutting the entire bush

If you want to remove a small bramble bush, the easiest way is to cut down the entire plant with pruning shears or pruning shears.

This method works best for small individual bramble spots, but is not very effective for removing large thicket masses.

Pruning alone is often not enough to remove blackberries from your garden, which is why I recommend supplementing the pruning process with other removal methods.

2. Drag

Another method of removing blackberries is to dig up the entire plant and pull it out of the ground.

This works best in areas where you have room to walk around and dig around the roots.

Pulling is very effective for small patches of plants and can be used to remove entire bushes over time.

When removing brambles by hand, remember that the plants are thorny and cannot be removed easily.

You must wear thick gloves and long sleeves when uprooting brambles. [1]

3. Burn

The third way to remove brambles is to burn them down.

You can use a weed burner to get rid of small patches of bramble bushes.

A weed burner is a portable device powerful enough to blast through thickets of brambles and other thorny shrubs.

If you don’t have access to a weed burner, you can also start a fire to burn blackberries.

Be sure to prepare the property before you start burning by mowing down tall grass and weeds in the area and removing anything that could be damaged by the fire.

4. Mowing

Large thickets of bramble bushes can be mowed to prevent and control spread.

Mow the bushes back to the ground, wait until spring and then mow again.

5. Herbicide

Bramble bushes are easily removed by spraying them with an herbicide. You can do this yourself by hand or hire a professional to do it.

The best time to spray blackberries is during flowering or fruiting season.

It’s also a good idea to spray a few feet around the bush to get rid of any suckers.

Be sure to read and follow all directions on your herbicide label.

6. Cover them

Another way to get rid of small bramble bushes is to cut them off and cover them with a large tarp or plastic wrap over the winter months to discourage new growth in spring.

As a bonus, you control other weeds growing in and around the blackberries.

If you remove the plastic cover, you’ll have to dig around and remove any remaining bits of root.

7. Goats

Goats are another way to get rid of brambles.

They’ll eat the entire plant, so all you have to do is keep an eye out for new growth and remove it.

So here are my tips for removing problem bramble bushes.

Dealing with wild bramble bushes can be tricky because they are so resilient, but you should be able to get them under control using one or more of the methods above.

RELATED ARTICLES

Have you tried getting rid of bramble bushes in your yard? Let me know in the comments below.

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What many people don’t know about brush cutters and trimmers is that the most important part of them that gets the job done is the blade. So, to guide you through the best brushcutter blade today, I’ll share with you some of the best options that I’ve personally tried.

**Below are our more detailed reviews, but you can also click the links above to see current prices or read customer reviews on Amazon.

Top Picks: 5 best brush cutter blade

# Preview Product Rating 1 Kurt-Saw 2-Pack 9″ 36 Tooth Carbide Tipped Blades for Brushcutter, Trimmer, Weed Eater 9.5 2 FORESTER Brushcutter Blades and File Set – Trimmer Chainsaw Tooth Saw Blade – For Trimming Trees,… 9.4 3 FORESTER Chainsaw Tooth 9″ Brush Blade w/ 3/16″ Round File 2-Piece Bundle, 2-Pack (2 Blades, 2…5.0Ah) 9.5 5 8″ x 80T 8-Inch 80 Teeth Carbide Tip Circular Saw Brushcutter Trimmer Weed Eater Blade (2 Pack) 9.3

Efficient and affordable lawn maintenance with the best brushcutter blade

What you need to find in your ideal brushcutter blade

1. Knife teeth

2. Materials

3. Pin hole size

4. Blade diameter

5. Weight

6. Maintenance

Top 5 brushcutter blades

1. RENEGADE BLADE 2-Blade Pack

2. PoolSupplyTown brushcutter blades 2-pack

3. MaxPower brushcutter blade

4. MaxPower brushcutter blade

5. Forester chainsaw brush blade

Conclusion

What you need to find in your ideal brushcutter blade

As previously mentioned, you want a reliable blade that will match your brushcutter or trimmer in order for it to be effective. Things to look for include the following:

1. Knife teeth

Basically, if you want to get more cutting power out of your blade or trimmer, you need to make sure that the blade has a significant number of teeth. If you want to do light lawn mowing work, a smaller number of teeth on your blade is sufficient.

For general to heavy duty lawn cutting, an 80-100 tooth blade is recommended. The more teeth pack, the more cutting power you also need to consider that more maintenance and sharpening will be required in case the teeth become dull.

2. Materials

The material should also be considered before choosing this brushcutter blade. Although it can be made from a variety of steels, you may want one that is familiar with the specific cutting job you have in mind.

For example, if you intend to use the device on wet and muddy lawns, a waterproof and durable blade is highly recommended. Also great is a blade that doesn’t need much sharpening due to its extra hard construction.

While getting the hardest material out of your blade would mean an additional price increase, there are other options that you can get optimal durability for at a fair price.

3. Pin hole size

There is a wide range of brush cutter mounting hole sizes to choose from. Since the shaft hole is where you connect the blade to the trimmer or cutter, you need to make sure it’s the correct dimensions.

Check with your clipper or trimmer for recommended mandrel hole dimensions and make sure it fits your prospective blade. The last thing you want is a blade with all the amazing features that doesn’t fit in your brushcutter.

4. Blade diameter

Another thing about your blade that should match your specific brushcutter model is the diameter of the blade.

While spraying for the larger diameter would definitely give you more power and speed when cutting grass and weeds, it may not be effective for some brush cutter models. This is especially true if your brushcutter is equipped with a metal blade.

If you are not given a recommended blade diameter for your cutter, choose the medium diameter for strength and added security.

5. Weight

Since you’ll be carrying the brushcutter all the time when you’re gardening, you might want your blade to be lightweight. This is to prevent fatigue and back pain when using the device.

It is also important to note that the weight of the device will gradually increase with use as it comes in contact with the grass, especially dense grass. With this you want your blade to be light and handy, otherwise it will be difficult to control and may not provide a clean cut.

6. Maintenance

A blade that doesn’t require much maintenance is also a better choice. Opt for cutting blades that are easy to clean and resistant to rust and corrosion.

While a few extra bucks may be required for a maintenance-free blade, it’s certainly a good investment as it means the blade will last longer and won’t require cleaning on your part.

The 5 best reviews for brush cutter blades

Among the many types of brush cutter blades on the market, it becomes difficult to find the perfect one that suits your specific needs. Without going through all the options one by one, today I am sharing with you the best and most used brushcutter blades.

1. RENEGADE BLADE 2-Blade Pack

The number one choice for brushcutter blades is the RENEGADE BLADE 2-Blade Pack, which comes with not just 1 but 2 blades in one pack.

This blade from Renegade has an established reputation and is not a brushcutter to be reckoned with. As a leading supplier of high-quality and durable garden tools, this knife also lives up to its predecessors.

Both blades included in the package are 8 inches in diameter, which is the standard diameter used on most brushcutters today. It comes with a set of 32 teeth, which is ideal for moderate to general types of cutting tasks.

Should you require more cutting power from this blade, you also have the option to upgrade to the 80 tooth blade. If you choose the 80-tooth blade variant, you can make heavy cuts in your garden.

This pair of blades is also very durable, being made of carbide steel that can withstand heavy pressure and is rust and corrosion resistant. The carbide teeth also mean that the blade does not dull as quickly and does not need to be sharpened for a long time.

ADVANTAGES

2 blades in one

Standard size for most types of brush cutters

hard metal

Upgradable to 80 teeth

Trusted Name

DISADVANTAGE

Difficult to sharpen

Not very durable

2. PoolSupplyTown brushcutter blades 2-pack

The PoolSupplyTown 2 Pack Brush Cutter Blades also offers 2 blades in a single package and is also a universal type of brush cutter blade.

While this blade has the dimensions to fit the general types of brush cutters, it also fits other grass cutting implements such as weed eaters and garden trimmers. It is available in a variety of mounting holes to suit the blade needs of many devices.

This blade is designed with a high RPM for faster and more efficient cutting. At the same time, it is a popular choice in the market due to its excellent durability. It is made of carbide steel, which ensures that the blade lasts a long time and the teeth do not need to be sharpened as quickly.

With its 8 inch diameter and 80 teeth, it becomes a ruthless garden cutting tool. Despite its durable and quality construction, it is lighter than other options and easier to handle and control.

ADVANTAGES

Universal blade type

Can be used for other cutting tools in the garden

With 80 teeth for more cutting performance

Carbide and titanium alloy construction

DISADVANTAGE

Aggressive cutting that makes it difficult to control

Not recommended for light cuts

3. MaxPower brushcutter blade

The MaxPower Brushcutter Blade is another excellent choice to add to this list due to its quality construction and design, as well as its much more affordable price.

This blade is also designed to fit almost any size requirement of various brush cutters and is ideal for trimming small trees, dense grass, weeds and branches. Although this blade is designed for brush cutters, it will also fit other garden cutting tools such as B. Gasoline powered trimmers.

It comes with a 7 inch diameter and a set of teeth that are best for finishing and making precise cuts on the lawn. This product is also equipped with cemented carbide material, which allows it to have a long service life without getting blunt easily.

While the teeth take a long time to dull, they can be sharpened with the help of a 3/16 chainsaw file. The product is also easy to find in the local market.

If you are looking for an inexpensive, multi-purpose brush cutter, this could be a good option.

ADVANTAGES

Ideal for finishing and precise cuts

Continuous

Inexpensive

Universal blade

DISADVANTAGE

May require constant cleaning

Not recommended for heavy cuts

4. MaxPower brushcutter blade

If you want a larger diameter brushcutter blade for a larger cutting area, you can also invest in the MaxPower brushcutter blade.

This blade is 9″ in diameter to allow for faster cutting and greater coverage area during pruning jobs.

What many users love about this product is that it quickly cuts through a large area of ​​lawn in just one pass due to its larger diameter. It’s built with durable construction and a bit that’s guaranteed to last a long time before needing sharpening.

Just like the previous choice of brushcutter blade, this product also comes with a set of chainsaw teeth, allowing it to be used for heavy-duty brushcutting jobs. Despite the increased diameter, this blade is still lightweight for precise cuts on the lawn, and it’s still a lot cheaper than most traditional brushcutter blades.

Finally, while the product is ideal for cutting grass, it can also be used to cut tougher materials such as wood and thin branches.

ADVANTAGES

Continuous

Chainsaw teeth for cutting tough materials

Easy to sharpen

9 inch diameter

DISADVANTAGE

Not recommended for precise or light cutting work

Does not fit smaller brushcutters with a metal shield

5. Forester chainsaw brush blade

Next on our list is the Forester Chainsaw Brush Blade. It comes with a large diameter in a bundle of pairs in a single pack.

A selling point of this brushcutter blade is that it features a set of 20 chainsaw teeth to deliver powerful and clean cuts in wood, grass or garden debris. This blade is 9″ in diameter and will fit almost any type of brushcutter.

What I personally like about this blade is that you don’t have to put any pressure on the brushcutter when cutting. It can also provide a gentle effect when cutting hard plants and garden waste.

Its blade is very durable and can last a long time before needing sharpening. Also, since it comes in pairs, you can easily replace it immediately when the teeth become dull to allow for continuous cutting work.

While this product is ideal for cutting grass, it can also be used to cut tougher and harder materials such as wood and thin branches.

ADVANTAGES

Comes in a 2 piece bundle

Fast cutting

Can be used on hard and tough materials and thin wood

Universal blade

Easy to sharpen

DISADVANTAGE

Slightly blunt

Not very accurate cuts

Conclusion

Cutting and trimming grass in the garden will never be easy without the help of a reliable blade from your brush cutter. Among all these options, we believe that RENEGADE BLADE 2 Blade Pack is the optimal choice.

This is simply because while it offers an extremely durable construction and a bit that doesn’t dull easily, it also comes at a great price as it comes in a 2 piece package.

Which blade do you think is right for you? If you have any questions, comments, and suggestions about the best brushcutter blades on the market today, let us know. We have a handy comment box below for you to share your thoughts.

How to safely use a chainsaw to reduce blackberry growth

Unless you’re Peter Rabbit, we recommend avoiding using a chainsaw to trim back a wild or overgrown bramble bush.

Maybe bring in a professional.

Maybe you just want to get the job done.

You may need to remove it so you can get closer to a tree to cut it down.

And if so, here’s a guide on how to do it safely. It’s pretty much a reasonable guide to using a chainsaw, but a refresher on the basics never hurt anyone, especially if it reduces the likelihood of a kickback in the face, right?

When cutting blackberries or similar scrub:

Use the correct handle for your chainsaw. Place your left hand on the front handle, making sure to grip the handle between your thumb and finger, with your thumb under the handle. Your right hand should be on the rear grip with your index finger on the throttle.

Make sure you are wearing the correct chainsaw gloves.

keep your front arm straight in the locked position

Operate the chainsaw with a side sweeping motion.

Make sure your chain brake is working.

Make sure you wear eye protection such as goggles or a face helmet. You can even do yourself a big favor and wear safety chaps too.

The main goal of this process is to avoid an awkward kickback, so don’t do anything stupid with your chainsaw. Understanding the environment you work in will give you a safer workspace.

Pruning is an important part of proper edible plant care, but many people find the task overwhelming. It doesn’t have to be! Keep these things in mind:

You can trust that not everyone will circumcise the same way (even the experts).

There are several reasons for pruning: to maintain your plant’s size and shape, to stimulate vigorous growth and overall fruit quality.

NOTE: This is part 8 of a series of 11 articles. For a complete background on growing blackberry plants, we recommend starting from scratch.

Work organic matter into the soil around the base of the bramble bush to balance the plant’s nutrients. An ideal pH level for blackberries is 6.0 to 7.0. Add a 2-inch layer of mulch around the base to deter weeds.

Wild blackberries are rich in vitamin C and taste delicious, making them ideal for eating fresh fruit, making into jams or sauces, and incorporating into desserts.

Most often, wild bramble bushes thrive on roadsides with bushy thickets and dense vegetation, as well as in fields, near the seashore, in forests or on mountains.

Water the blackberries with 1 inch of water per week unless it rains during that time.

Remove (or transplant) any extra blackberry plants within 2 feet, as the plants will become overcrowded.

Trellis the blackberry plant for extra support, which will make the plant’s canes stronger and yield more fruit. Do this by setting up a stake or trellis system next to the plant and attaching the plant’s canes to the system with loosely tied twine.

Prune any dead, broken, or diseased canes. Also trim back any canes that appear thinner or less strong than the other canes. Cut off suckers growing from the outside of the canes. For taller blackberry plants, prune remaining canes to no more than 7 feet tall.

Water the blackberries with 1 inch of water per week unless it rains during that time.

Remove (or transplant) any extra blackberry plants within 2 feet, as the plants will become overcrowded.

Harvest blackberries as soon as they turn dark red, purple, or black. Gather them lightly in a basket in a layer no more than a few inches deep. Wash them in a colander with clean water before laying them on a paper towel to dry.

Eat berries fresh or store them in an airtight container in the freezer for later use.

Bramble is a spiky, climbing shrub with dark-colored berries. It forms thickets and is one of Australia’s worst weeds.

profile

How is this weed affecting you?

Blackberry’s control and loss of production has already cost around $100 million. It:

quickly invades large areas

forms dense thickets that restrict: stick access to waterways access via firebreaks

takes over pastures

is inedible for most livestock

reduces the natural habitat for plants and animals

stokes bushfires

provides shelter for rabbits and foxes

provides food for introduced species such as starlings, blackbirds and foxes.

Blackberry can have some positive qualities, such as:

edible fruit

support pollinators

Food and shelter for some native animals and birds such as bandicoots and blue wrens

Leaves can be used in herbal medicines.

The aggregate Rubus fruticosus

There are many different types of blackberries. In NSW, the European bramble (Rubus fruticosus) is the most widespread. Rubus fruticosus is the collective name for various European blackberry species. Nine species occur in NSW:

Rubus Anglo-Candican

Rubus leucostachys

Rubus polyanthemus

Rubus laciniatus

Rubus ulmifolius var. ulmifolius and var. anoplothyrsus

Rubus vestitus

Rubus leightonii

Rubus phaeocarpus

This weed profile is of the species Rubus fruticosus in NSW.

How does it look like?

Blackberry is a shrub with tangled, prickly stems. Different Rubus species can be difficult to tell apart. Contact your local weed officer for identification advice.

leaves are:

alternate along the stem

in clusters of 3 – 5 leaves

dark green on leaf tops

light green on the underside of the leaf

covered with short, curved spines

absent in winter in cooler climates.

Stems are:

called “sticks”

up to 7 m long

vertical, arched or growing on the ground

covered with sharp spines (except Rubus ulmifolius var. anoplothyrsus)

Green, purple or red depending on how much light they get.

flowers are:

white or pink

2 – 3 cm in diameter

arranged in the form of a cylinder or pyramid

at the end of the sticks

shows from late November to late February.

fruits are:

dark colored berries

each berry has 20-30 seeds.

Roots are:

woody

perennial

in a crown up to 20 cm wide

with a main root up to 4 m deep

with secondary roots growing horizontally from the crown 30 – 60 cm, then downwards with thin roots.

Similar looking plants

There are other introduced Rubus species that do not belong to the Rubus fruticosus group:

Rubus laudatus

Rubus philadelphicus

Rubus roribaccus (dewberry, young berry, boysenberry)

Rubus loganobaccus (loganberry)

Rubus ellipticus (Yellow Himalayan Raspberry)

Rubus rugosus (currant berry)

Rubus niveus

Rubus idaeus (raspberry).

There are also native Rubus species that do not belong to the Rubus fruticosus group. The native Rubus pavifolius often grows in association with the Rubus fruticosus group.

Where to find it

Blackberry affects about 9 million hectares of land in Australia. The Rubus fruticosus species in NSW grow in different areas:

Rubus anglocandicans is the most common species in wetter areas of the state

Rubus leucostachys is widespread

Rubus polyanthemus is in Kosciuzsko National Park

Rubus laciniatus is found in wetter areas of the state

Rubus ulmifolius var. ulmifolius is widespread

Rubus ulmifolius var. anoplothyrsus may be present in NSW

Rubus vestitus is rare

Rubus leightonii is uncommon

Rubus phaeocarpus grows in the Kowmung River area.

In what environment does it grow?

Blackberry likes:

temperate climate with a warm summer and a cool winter

Annual precipitation of at least 700 mm.

Blackberry can grow in drier climates if it has access to water, e.g. along a river bank. She doesn’t like strong shadows.

maps and records

Recorded Blackberry Presence at Property Inspections (Map: Biosecurity Information System – Weeds, 2017-2022)

These records are made by authorized officers as part of property inspections under the Biosecurity Act 2015. Officers record the presence of priority weeds in their community area and make this available to the NSW Department of Primary Industries. The records reflect the presence of the weed at the time of inspection.

Estimated Blackberry Prevalence in NSW (Map: NSW Noxious Weed Local Control Authorities, 2010)

The map shows weed distribution and density estimated by local weed commissioners in 2010.

How is it spreading?

seed

Blackberry produces many seeds. There can be up to 13,000 seeds per square meter under a bramble bush at the end of a fruiting season. Birds and animals that feed on the berries spread the seeds with their droppings. Seeds also spread through water and with soil.

Vegetative

When annual canes (primocans) touch the ground, they sprout roots and become new “daughter” plants. The next year, primocans produce short canes with flowers and berries at the end.

references

Audit, AW (2002). Assessment of Australia’s water resources (National Land and Water Resources Audit). Natural Heritage Trust, Canberra, Australian Capital Territory: Author.

Bruzzese E & Lane M (1996). BlackBerry Administration Guide. In Blackberry Management Workshop (1993: Keith Turnbull Research Institute.. Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources.

NSW Department of Primary Industries Weed Management Unit (2009). Blackberry Control Manual: Blackberry (Rubus spp.) management and control options in Australia. Department of Basic Industries, Victoria.

Page, A.R., & Lacey, KL. (2006). Economic impact assessment of Australian biological weed control. CRC for Australian Weed Management.

More information

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control

The long-term control of blackberries is an ongoing process. A combination of control methods and follow-up is required.

physical distance

Physical control alone is rarely successful as it is difficult to remove all of the roots. Through cultivation, the blackberry often spreads further. Slashing can help gain entry through infestation, but encourages regrowth. After slashing, use a follow-up control.

biological control

The leaf rust fungus Phragmidium violaceum is the only deliberately released biological control agent in Australia. It attacks leaves, infects flower buds and immature fruit, and stops blackberries producing daughter plants.

Phragmidium violaceum spores need dew, rain or high humidity to germinate. It is most effective when:

Most of the plant’s canopy consists of young leaves

The annual rainfall is more than 750 mm

Rain is evenly distributed throughout the year

Average temperatures in January are around 20°C.

In 2000, eight different fungal strains of Phragmidium violaceum were released.

pasture management

Strong, actively growing willows will help prevent the bramble invasion.

pastures

Goats can start controlling a heavy infestation. Goats prefer blackberries over improved grazing species.

Cattle do not control blackberry infestation but can prevent daughter plants from establishing themselves.

Sheep can graze bramble seedlings when there is no other tasty food around.

combustion

Burning will not kill Bramble. Burning can make the infestation more amenable to post-treatment.

chemical control

Herbicides are the most reliable method of controlling blackberries. Use herbicides in combination with other control methods.

There are many herbicides approved for use on blackberries. A mixture of triclopyr + picloram with or without aminopyralid gives the best long-term control.

Spray healthy, actively growing plants with new leaves on the tips of the rods. Apply to the outer and inner leaves.

First year plants are easier to kill with herbicides. Well-established thickets may need more treatments.

After cutting or burning, wait for plants to regrow up to 1m before applying the herbicide.

Some blackberry species are more resistant to certain herbicides than others. Identify the species before choosing an herbicide.

Herbicide Options

WARNING – ALWAYS READ THE LABEL

Users of agricultural or veterinary chemical products must always read the label and any approvals before using the product, and strictly follow the label instructions and the terms of each approval. No statement made or not made in this information shall absolve the user of compliance with label directions or the terms of approval. To view permits or product labels, visit the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority website. Users of agricultural or veterinary chemical products must always read the labels and any approvals before using the product, and strictly comply with the instructions on the label and the terms of each approval. No statement made or not made in this information shall absolve the user of compliance with label directions or the terms of approval. For permits or product labels, visit the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority website www.apvma.gov.au

See Using Herbicides for more information.

Glyphosate 360 ​​g/L (various products)

Rate: 10-13ml per 1L of water

Remarks: flowering to deciduous. Use a higher rate for old, dense infestations.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: M, inhibitors of EPSP synthase

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Hexazinone 250 g/L (Velpar® L)

Rate: Undiluted (4 ml per spot)

Remarks: Bushes up to 1 m high.

Embargo: No embargo specified.

Herbicide group: C, inhibitors of photosynthesis on photosystem II (PS II inhibitors)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Metsulfuron-methyl 300 g/kg + Aminopyralid 375 g/kg (Stinger™)

Dosage: 20 g per 100 L of water

Comments: Spray to thoroughly wet all leaves. Uptake spray oil or Pulse Pentrant should be added.

Embargo Period: 3 – 56 days (see label)

Herbicide group: B, inhibitors of acetolactate synthase (ALS inhibitors) + I, disruptors of plant cell growth (synthetic auxins)

Resistance Risk: High/Moderate

Metsulfuron-methyl 600 g/kg (various products)

Dosage: 10 g per 100 L of water

Comments: Apply when the bushes are actively growing. At the beginning of flowering, thoroughly moisten all the leaves and shoots.

Waiting time: Zero (it is recommended not to graze 7 days before treatment and 7 days after treatment to allow adequate chemical uptake in the target weeds).

Herbicide group: B, inhibitors of acetolactate synthase (ALS inhibitors)

Risk of resistance: high

Metsulfuron-methyl 600 g/kg (various products)

Rate: 1 g/L + organosilicone penetrant

Comments: Gas gun / splatter gun application. Thoroughly moisten all leaves and shoots. Begin application during the flowering period as this indicates good growing conditions.

Waiting time: Zero (it is recommended not to graze 7 days before treatment and 7 days after treatment to allow adequate chemical uptake in the target weeds).

Herbicide group: B, inhibitors of acetolactate synthase (ALS inhibitors)

Risk of resistance: high

Picloram 100 g/L + Triclopyr 300 g/L + Aminopyralid 8 g/L (Grazon Extra®)

Rate: 350 or 500ml per 100L of water

Comments: Enjoyment in late spring to autumn. Use an adjuvant.

Waiting time: if the product is used to control woody plants in pasture, there is a 12 week limit on the use of treated pasture for hay and silage production; using hay or other plant material for compost, mulch or mushroom substrate; or using animal waste from animals grazing on treated pastures for composting, mulching or application to pastures/crops.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Picloram 20 g/kg (Tordon® Granules)

Consumption: 35-45 g/m2

Comments: Apply granules over an area extending from the main stem to 30cm outside the drip line.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Picloram 44.7 g/l + Aminopyralid 4.47 g/l (Vigilant II®)

Rate: Undiluted

Remarks: Injection application for cut stump/trunk. For stems under 20mm, apply a 3-5mm layer of gel. Apply a layer of 5mm to stems over 20mm.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Triclopyr 200 g/L + Picloram 100 g/L (Tordon® DSH)

Rate: 500ml per 100L of water

Remarks: Treatment from late spring to autumn. Use an adjuvant.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Triclopyr 300 g/L + Picloram 100 g/L (Different products)

Rate: 350 or 500ml per 100L of water

Comments: late spring to early autumn, when the bushes are actively growing. Apply the higher rate to crops damaged by grazing livestock or insects.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Triclopyr 300 g/L + Picloram 100 g/L (Different products)

Rate: 335ml per 10L of water

Comments: Gas gun / splatter gun application. Apply to actively growing bushes.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Triclopyr 600 g/L (Garlon® 600)

Rate: 170ml per 100L of water

Remarks: Late spring to early fall. Actively growing bushes. Do not use in dry conditions.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

Triclopyr 600 g/L (Garlon® 600)

Rate: 280ml per 10L of water

Comments: Gas gun / splatter gun application. Good control is achieved, similar to the high volume application where the bush size allows for good coverage of the entire bush. The use of markers is recommended.

Restriction period: zero.

Herbicide group: I, plant cell growth disruptors (synthetic auxins)

Risk of resistance: Moderate

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biosecurity obligation

The content provided here is for informational purposes only and is sourced from the Biosecurity Act 2015 and its sub-acts and the Regional Strategic Weed Management Plans (published by each Local Land Services Region in NSW). It describes the state and regional priorities for weeds in New South Wales, Australia.

Area Duty All NSW General Biosecurity Duty

All crops are subject to a general biosecurity obligation to prevent, eliminate or minimize any biosecurity risk they may pose. Any person handling a plant who knows (or should know) of a biosecurity risk has a responsibility to ensure that the risk is prevented, eliminated or minimized to the extent reasonably practicable. The whole NSW ban on certain shops

May not be brought into the state, sold, bartered, bartered or offered for sale.

All species in the Rubus fruiticosus species aggregate have this requirement, except for Black Satin, Chehalem, Chester Thornless, Dirksen Thornless, Loch Ness, Murrindindi, Silvan, Smooth Stem and Thornfree cultivars. asset protection)

Land managers should mitigate the risk of introducing new weeds onto their land. Land managers should contain the spread from their land. The plant should not be bought, sold, grown, carried, or released into the environment.

Protect Conservation Areas, Natural Surroundings and Primary Production Areas Blackberry Free Hunter Regional Recommended Action* (for Regional Priority – Asset Protection)

The plant should not be bought, sold, grown, carried, or released into the environment. Land managers should mitigate the risk of the plant being introduced onto their land. Land managers should contain the spread from their land. Land managers to reduce investment impact on priority assets. northwest

A restricted zone will be established for all lands in the region except for the core infested area which includes Gwydir Shire Council, Liverpool Plains Shire Council and Tamworth Regional Council. Regional Recommended Action* (for Regional Priority – Containment)

Entire region: The plant should not be bought, sold, grown, carried or released into the environment. Exclusion Zone: Land managers should mitigate the risk of new weeds entering their land; Land managers should contain the spread from their land. Core Infestations: Land managers are reducing plant impact on priority assets Northern Tablelands Regional Recommended Action* (for Regional Priority – Asset Protection)

Land managers should mitigate the risk of introducing new weeds onto their land. Land managers should contain the spread from their land. The plant should not be bought, sold, grown, transported, or released into the environment. *Click here to view the Regional Strategic Weed Management Plans, which include proven results that meet the general biosecurity obligation for this weed

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Municipal weed officer.

For more information call the NSW DPI Biosecurity Helpline on 1800 680 244 or email For technical advice and identification assistance please contact your office

Rated 2019

People lucky enough to live in the beautiful British countryside, or even on the outskirts of our big cities, may find that these trimmers aren’t quite capable of dealing with denser and tougher vegetation such as thornbushes and therefore need something to bring along a little more bite.

A question I get asked over and over again by our customers is which is better for getting rid of thick brush – a cordless brush cutter? Or a petrol grass trimmer?

In this article we will take a look at the strengths and weaknesses of these tools and try to answer that very question for you, but first we will clear up a few things for those of you who are new to using power tools in the garden.

Speaking of gardening tools, check out this simple yet clever way to make a tool rack for your garage or shed.

12 Garden Tool Shelves You Can Easily Make… https://t.co/4331L0WiF1 pic.twitter.com/I857knHG3m – Dodson Real Estate (@DonielleDodson) May 25, 2021

What is a trimmer?

A grass trimmer, also known as a lawn trimmer, is a tool used to trim grass, particularly around the edges of your lawn, and can be used in place of an edging shear in some cases.

A string trimmer consists of a long body with a pair of handles on one end and a rotating spool of nylon line on the other. This line is pulled out of the spool a few inches at a time to act as a cutting blade, and when it breaks you simply pull more line through or use the tool’s auto-feed feature to do the same.

Cordless trimmers have recently been launched that do not use the traditional cutting line and instead have nylon blades that clip onto the rotating cutting head. These are said to be more durable than cutting lines, but the jury’s out yet as these are very recent additions.

There are three main types of grass trimmers that are available to you. You can opt for a corded electric string trimmer, which is the easiest to use and probably the best for small gardens without many obstacles, cordless string trimmers, which run on batteries and give you more freedom of movement, and petrol-powered string trimmers.

Gasoline line trimmers are by far the most powerful and the type used by professionals to get bigger jobs done much faster. We have an article that compares the different types of lawn trimmers that you can read by typing it in the search bar at the top of the screen. We also shared this video explaining how Strimemrs work.

What is a brushcutter?

Brush cutters, which are also used to cut back unwanted vegetation, are often confused with string trimmers by novice gardeners, but they are very different tools. What makes this problem even worse is that a powerful trimmer often comes with two different attachments, so it can be used as both a trimmer and a brushcutter.

Unlike string trimmers, brush cutters don’t use a spool of line to cut, but instead have a metal blade that usually has three or more teeth. This blade needs to be properly sharpened to get the most out of your brushcutter, but it’s a simple little maintenance that anyone can do.

Again, brush cutters are available in corded electric, battery-powered cordless models, and petrol models, and they have the same advantages and disadvantages that you would find with the different types of grass trimmers, respectively.

I came across this video of two men racing to cut long grass. One uses a brushcutter while the other uses an old-fashioned synth! Well, that’s some skill.

I have a. However, I still have a long way to go to reach this standard! https://t.co/lKNX3UWRJF — Wylie Horn (@wyliehorn) May 25, 2021

Comparison of a cordless brush cutter with a petrol lawn trimmer for cutting thick undergrowth

Answering the question “which is better for pruning thick brambles” isn’t as easy as you might think, and I’ll explain why in this section.

If we were to compare a cordless brushcutter to a petrol brushcutter, which only has the trimmer head, I would say that the brushcutter wins hands down, although it doesn’t have nearly as much “muscle” as a petrol-powered machine.

I say this because nylon cords are far from ideal when cutting thick vegetation, especially brambles, and can even be quite frustrating as they can break easily. A brushcutter blade, on the other hand, is designed to cut through things like brambles and even branches like a hedge trimmer, and does it fairly easily, especially the more powerful cordless brushcutters from brands like Makita and Dewalt.

However, one also has to keep in mind that most petrol lawn trimmers either come with or can be fitted with a brush cutter attachment that can be purchased separately relatively cheaply, which changes things a bit.

A petrol line trimmer equipped with a decent brushcutter blade, or even a petrol garden multi-tool, will cut through brush better than any battery-powered brushcutter, just because of the extra power the motor provides.

Then there are other ways to cut through brambles, like this guy demonstrates with his mulcher head attached to his string trimmer. Nothing I’ve ever tried, but still very interesting to watch.

However, there are some downsides to using a gas-powered machine, which we’ll cover in this next section.

Petrol strimmers or cordless brush cutters – things to consider

While it’s tempting to just go for the more powerful, gas-powered tool, there are one or two things to consider first and we’ve highlighted them for you below.

Cordless brush cutters are easier to set up and operate than petrol line trimmers

Cordless strimmers, lawn mowers and pretty much all other cordless tools are designed to be easy to use and aimed at consumers and gardeners who like things simple. All you really have to do with cordless brush cutters is charge the battery, then pop it into the slot on the handle and you’re good to go.

Gas lawn trimmers are mostly powered by 2-stroke engines and therefore require you to mix the oil and gasoline in the correct proportions before putting it in the machine. Then there are a few extra steps that need to be performed before you can finally start the engine. So I would say they are the more complicated of the two tools, but no more complex than say a petrol pressure washer or a petrol drill

Gasoline line trimmers produce more noise and smoke than cordless brush cutters

2-stroke engines are used in petrol garden equipment because they are very efficient when it comes to generating power from a smaller displacement. The disadvantages of these engines are the additional noise and exhaust fumes they produce as a by-product.

Cordless brushcutters run on lithium-ion batteries, so they don’t have to deal with exhaust fumes, and they’re not as noisy as petrol lawn trimmers. They still make noise so don’t expect them to be quiet, but they are comparatively quieter and certainly not much louder than some electric lawn mowers out there.

Cordless brush cutters require less maintenance than petrol lawn trimmers

Because there are no spark plugs, oil filters, and other components in a cordless brushcutter, maintenance is really limited to keeping the machine clean, the blades sharp, and the batteries charged.

Handling petrol lawn trimmers requires more maintenance, but that’s nothing that can’t be learned fairly quickly. In fact, we have articles on gas tool maintenance right here on this site.

Another aspect to consider is that a well-maintained petrol lawn trimmer will last a very long time, while even the best-maintained cordless brushcutter will need a battery change after a few years, and these batteries aren’t the cheapest things out there in the world.

At the end of the day everything needs a little maintenance, including the lawn itself of course. Looks like someone forgot to tell that lady-

Who knew grass was so high maintenance 😂 pic.twitter.com/LAmbU0h6cy – Jane Lucier (@jane_lucier) May 30, 2021

Conclusion in comparison

Both tools do the job of cutting through thick brambles, but the trimmer needs to be equipped with a brushcutter blade to do this. Trying to cut through brambles with a nylon cord just isn’t worth trying, trust me.

If you have a large yard and don’t mind a bit of maintenance, noise and fumes, then purchasing a brushcutter grass trimmer is a viable option. For those who have smaller properties and prefer something that’s easy to use and won’t annoy the neighbors, a cordless brush cutter is a better option.

1. STIHL ARE THE STRONGEST BRUSH CUTTER

Pro: Power through tough grass

For professionals who need a high-quality cordless brush cutter, the FSA 130 and 130 R from the STIHL PRO range offer a reliable tool without compromising on performance. These powerful yet lightweight brushcutters have been specifically designed for professionals who work large areas of hard grass.

Thanks to the bicycle handle, the FSA 130 is well suited to clearing large areas of grass quickly and efficiently, while the FSA 130 R with a wrap-around handle is perfect for use in confined spaces. The tools have three adjustable power levels that can be changed via the handle depending on the task and help conserve battery power when full speed is not required.

Powered by a 36V lithium-ion battery with an electric motor, the FSA 130 and FSA 130 R are extremely energy efficient, lightweight and well-balanced, weighing just 4.4kg without the battery. They run quietly and are therefore well suited for use in noise-sensitive areas, and the low vibrations during operation ensure high ease of use. Both tools can be operated with STIHL 36 V battery systems and used with STIHL AP batteries or AR backpack batteries.

You can find more information about STIHL cordless tools here.

2. MAKITA’S LINE TRIMMERS AND BRUSH CUTTER LET THE WAY

Pro: The all-rounder

With the latest technical features and improved performance for longer runtime and more power, Makita offers a range of 18V and Twin 18V (36V) cordless lawn trimmers powered by the Makita LXT battery platform , including power tools and lawn care machines offer a true one-battery-fits-all solution.

The Makita range of grass trimmers offers a variety of specifications for different applications. Innovations such as brushless motors, when built into the head of the machine, improve the balance of the machine and eliminate the power loss from the traditional driveshaft, which places the motor at the operator’s end of the machine.

Additional features such as soft start, electric brake, reverse run and overload protection contribute to the efficiency of this range of cordless products, offering a choice of machines to suit the needs of everyone from the occasional user to the true professional operator whilst still covering the all-important ones Environmental benefits of this professional battery range.

More news and product information about Makita can be found here.

3. HUSQVARNA BRUSH CUTTER

Pro: Offers noise reduction when running on battery power

In noise-sensitive public areas, these cordless brush cutters can be used for longer thanks to the noise level reduced by up to 18 db(A). The IPX4 weatherproof rating also allows you to continue working in all weather conditions.

Additionally, a dual-directional trimmer head gives the operator the ability to choose between clockwise or counterclockwise rotation via a button on the intuitive keypad, reducing the amount of debris strewn on roads and trails. The high handlebar increases freedom when working on slopes and the Balance 35B harness distributes the weight evenly between the shoulders, chest and back.

Husqvarna Bio-X biodegradable trimmer line is now available, made from a high quality polymer with a patented mineral additive that breaks down waste trimmer line in 7 to 12 years.

More information about Husqvarna can be found here.

4. ETESIA BRUSH CUTTER

Pro: Easy to use and comfortable

The Etesia Attila 98X ride-on brush cutter is reliable, efficient, comfortable and safe. The performance, combined with all-wheel drive and performance, makes it ideal for some of the toughest jobs. The 98X has a cutting width of 98cm for working more efficiently, while eight cutting heights are available between 50mm and 120mm, with a transport position that can be easily adjusted with a central lever.

It can be used on gradients of up to 30% and its reinforced structurally welded tubular chassis offers the driver a better driving position. In addition, the electric start offers a high level of comfort, rack and pinion steering and a hydrostatic drive. Special attention has also been paid to noise and vibration levels to reduce them to a very low level – ideal for public areas.

Etesia UK has also recently introduced two new Attila pedestrian brush cutters. The Etesia AK60 and AH75 brush cutters effectively handle vegetation removal in a variety of locations – long grass, weeds, bracken and brambles on forest roads, orchards, holiday parks and roadsides. Ease of use and maneuverability ensure absolute efficiency and high performance. The AK60 model is equipped with a Kawasaki FJ180 OHV engine with a 60 cm cutting width, while the AH75 is equipped with a Honda GXV 390 engine with a 75 cm cutting width.

More information can be found on their website here.

5. MOUNTFIELD BRUSH CUTTERS

Pros: Easy

Mountfield have been one of the UK’s leading manufacturers of lawn mowers and garden equipment for over 50 years and understand the importance of refreshing your garden work all year round.

What better way to achieve this than with the Mountfield MB48Li 48V brush cutter, a versatile and easy-to-use tool that doesn’t have to worry about snagging the power cord. This lightweight and ergonomic tool is suitable for all gardeners, with a loop handle and shoulder strap for maximum control.

The MB48Li is easy to start and you get up to 40 minutes of trimming time with the built in 4Ah battery. The MB48Li comes with a tap-and-go bump feed head and a 4-tooth metal brushcutter blade with a working width of 35cm. It features a Hi/Lo power switch to adjust power to conditions.

More information can be found on their website here.

Brush cutters are available in the following variants:

a) Hand held brush cutters

b) Hand held brush cutters

c) Towed brush cutter

When it comes to trimming a small patch of vegetative growth or trimming dense bushes, brush cutters are the tools to turn to.

Hand-held brush cutters: These brush cutters function similarly to brush cutters, but have relatively more power and motors than their brush cutter counterparts. For dense grass and overgrown weeds, bushes, hand-held brush cutters are ideal. These brush cutters are also available with 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines.

Walk-Behind Brush Cutters: Also known as walk-behind brush cutters, free-hand mowers are the perfect choice for projects in areas with overgrown vegetation. If you want to attend to areas that don’t need frequent maintenance, a walk-behind brushcutter is ideal for cutting and trimming.

Trailed brush cutters: If you have a larger field to cut, trailed brush cutters are ideal as they can be attached to a garden tractor or ATV. They are easy to use and effective at cutting thicker bushes and weeds.

Towed brush cutter

Let’s look at some brush cutter accessories and attachments:

Different types of brush cutters should be used to cut different types of vegetation.

Pruning not only keeps berry bushes from becoming overgrown and unmanageable, but also improves yields and creates healthier, stronger plants.

Blackberries are perennials, which means once you establish a bed, you can have a berry crop every year!

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy through one of our links, we may receive a commission.

But if you don’t prune them regularly, brambles can quickly grow out of control, creating a mess of unruly thorns and ultimately fewer fruits.

Luckily, all it takes is a little annual maintenance to keep them happy. Read on to learn how and when to trim brambles.

What are primocanes and floricanes?

In order to prune properly, it is important to first understand how these shrubs grow and bear fruit. You can read all about planting and growing blackberries in our guide.

But I’ll start here with a brief summary of their habit and structure.

While blackberries are perennials, the individual canes are biennials, meaning they grow and bear fruit over a two-year cycle.

In most varieties, fruit is produced on the biennial canes. Once a cane has set fruit, it no longer bears berries.

The annual shoots are called primocane. These shoots grow vigorously with thick green leaves and develop buds late in the season. Uncut, these can grow several meters high.

Floridane are the biennial shoots. These woodier canes flower in spring and set fruit in mid-summer, dying after harvest.

A mature plant should have both Primocane and Floricane at the same time, each with different pruning requirements and timing required.

Pruning first-year primroses in late winter and spring promotes healthy plant growth and improves fruiting.

Fall pruning of biennial florican is useful for tidying up the garden and encouraging new shoots for growth the following spring.

A more in-depth discussion of Primocane vs. Floricane can be found here.

Spring Primocane Pruning

In winter or early spring, thin out first year canes to four to six per plant, taking care to remove damaged or diseased canes.

You should also cut off the tops of the primocans once they’ve grown a few feet. Do this in spring, before flowering begins.

This encourages side branching, resulting in heavier fruit yields the following season. This also creates stronger canes that are less likely to tip over when covered in fruit and foliage.

Take a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears and trim the canes back to about two feet in height. You can also prune back side shoots to about a foot.

Those already shorter than two feet should only be trimmed about an inch or so to force them to branch out.

Floricane pruning in late summer

After enjoying this season’s blackberry harvest, it’s time to clean up!

In late summer or fall, once fruiting has finished, cut the two-year-old canes back to the ground with clean and sharp pruning shears and remove them from the garden.

Always wear long sleeves and gardening gloves when working with thorny varieties!

Autumn bearing varieties

It’s also worth noting that there are some newer blackberry cultivars called everbearing, fall bearing, or primocane cultivars.

Rather than only producing berries on biennial canes like other species, these will also produce a smaller amount of fruit on the tips of the primocane in the fall.

With this type of blackberry, in addition to the pruning outlined above, you should prune back the dead tops of the primocane after they produce in the fall.

Clip the tips back a few knots below the dead part of each primokan.