Betadine Solution For Snakes? Top Answer Update

Submerge your snake in a solution of warm water and povidone iodine (PVPI), a topical antiseptic. There should be enough povidone iodine in the water for the mixture to be light brown, like tea. If the snake defecates in the povidone-iodine solution, empty the bath and start over. Pour some water over your snake’s head when it’s not submerged. You may want to bathe your snake in clean, clear water first so it can drink and defecate [source: Kaplan]. Afterward, spray your pal with a reptile-safe mite spray available at pet stores. Gently wipe the spray around the eyes, avoiding getting the liquid in your mouth. Don’t give the snake a bowl of water for a few days so it can’t wash the spray off [source: Wissman].

My daughter has an 8 foot Central American boa that has only ever eaten live food. Recently, Budski did not immediately kill and eat the rat, and the rat ended up biting the tip of Budski’s tail. What, if anything, should be done about such bites? It’s a very small bite.

Prey bites should always be considered dangerous. For this reason, it’s always best to train a snake to eat prekilled prey whenever possible. But that means we have to deal with the problem at hand.

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Rodent bites can be anything from annoying to life-threatening or even fatal. With all sores, it’s best to consult a herp vet for details. But a good supply of first aid can and should be used whenever a herpes suffers from an injury to the skin and possibly underlying tissue.

If possible, wounds should be washed with plenty of warm, soapy water and an antibacterial soap. If the wound is very deep or is around the face or eyes, it is better to have a professional do the cleaning. Next, clean the wound with diluted povidone iodine solution diluted to ice tea color, rinse the wound several times, and then rinse well with clean water. For superficial wounds, apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment and leave uncovered. It is difficult to apply a bandage to reptile skin without causing additional trauma. After a bite, keep the wound clean until it heals.

After a wound has healed, dysecdysis (difficulty skinning) may occur when it’s time for the next skinning. With each successive hair loss, the scar should become less and less visible; However, some marks of a wound may remain for some time or forever, depending on the severity of the injury.

If a wound is severe, if you can see bones or internal organs, or if the wound is large, gashing, you should take your injured pet to the vet. Large bite wounds should not usually be stitched because bites are usually infected and should be treated as open wounds.

If you feel the injury is not healing properly when the animal loses food, or if you notice any changes that concern you, please contact your herp vet immediately so that he can be properly evaluated and treated.

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Margaret A. Wissman, DVM, DABVP has been an avian/exotic/herpen vet since 1981. She writes regularly for REPTILES magazine.

Need a Herp Vet?

If you are looking for a herp-knowledgeable veterinarian in your area, a good place to start is to check the list of members on the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarian (ARAV) website at www.arav.com. Look for DVMs that appear to have actual veterinary offices to contact.

Infectious stomatitis

Sometimes referred to as mouth rot, infectious stomatitis is a very common condition that can affect pets, lizards, snakes and turtles. When a reptile is under stress, their immune system becomes weak and unable to keep the bacteria normally present in their mouth in check. The resulting infection leads to mouth sores.

symptoms and types

Signs of mouth rot can include:

loss of appetite

Reddened mouth tissues

Thick pus and/or dead tissue in the mouth

drainage from the mouth and nose

Left untreated, the infection can spread from the mouth to the rest of the digestive tract or into the lungs, causing pneumonia.

causes

Improper temperature gradients or humidity levels in the terrarium can lead to a poorly functioning immune system and mouth rot. In some cases, improper diet or mouth injuries caused by a reptile attempting to retain live prey, rubbing against cage walls, or chewing on bedding material may also play a role.

diagnosis

Mouth rot is generally diagnosed by observing the reptile’s clinical signs, conducting a thorough physical examination of the animal, and reading its medical history.

See also:

[Video]

treatment

Treatment for mouth rot usually includes a course of antibiotics and cleaning the reptile’s mouth with an antiseptic. In severe cases, surgery to remove severely damaged oral tissues may be needed. Animals unable to eat and drink during recovery will need fluid therapy and nutritional support. Any failures in husbandry also need to be addressed or the condition is likely to return.

prevention

A healthy diet, proper temperature gradients and humidity levels, and a clean environment are essential to prevent mouth rot.

Sept. 16, 2021 – The idea that gargling with the common antiseptic Betadine will prevent COVID-19 is finding a home in the corners of social media, but there’s no evidence it works. Even the manufacturer says so.

Betadine, the brand name for povidone iodine, is a topical medication used to treat cuts, scrapes, and burns and to prevent or treat minor skin infections. Betadine causes a sore throat when you gargle, but that doesn’t fight the coronavirus either, the company said.

“Betadine Antiseptic First Aid products have not been approved to treat coronavirus,” reads an official statement on the company’s website. “Products should only be used to prevent infection of minor cuts, scrapes and burns. Betadine antiseptic products have not been shown to be effective in treating or preventing COVID-19 or any other virus.”

But a person pretending to be a doctor posted a video on Facebook and Twitter with a caption in Thai, which read: “Doctor suggests boosting immunity to fight Covid-19 by gargling with povidone -Iodine and protect the virus from entering the lungs #TokMaiTiang,” reports Newsweek.

Does your reptilian companion have a cut or scrape that needs attention? The good news is that reptiles are incredibly self-healing, even after serious wounds sustained from predators in the wild. The quickest way for certain species of lizards to heal a superficial wound is to shed their layer of skin. The deeper the wound, the more layers of skin have to be shed and the longer it takes for the wound to heal.

Small wounds in reptiles heal well on their own. However, if you think your pet is at risk of infection or is a weak or old person, you can help him by doing the following:

Fauna care spray

ointments and creams

household items

In general, wound healing in reptiles can take longer than in mammals or birds due to a lower metabolism. It’s best to keep your injured pet in a sterile and clean environment. Place them in a hospital tank or in quarantine, making sure it’s the right size and meeting the animal’s temperature and thermoregulation needs. Lay out paper towels and replace them as soon as there is waste to avoid breeding bacteria in the area. If your pet has deep cuts or you suspect a broken bone, take them to the vet.

Covering the wound with a topical treatment disinfects and covers the wound to keep dirt and germs out. It keeps the wound moist to allow faster healing. We’ve listed some commonly used products and told you when Fauna Care’s formulas outperform them!

Products

betadine

Veterinary betadine (povidone iodine) is commonly used to prepare the skin and mucous membranes before surgery. It can be used to irrigate wounds, prevent bacterial infections and act as an emergency antiseptic for minor cuts, scrapes and burns. Read how this snake owner used a diluted solution of betadine to treat scale rot. The solution reduces the bacteria that can cause skin infections.

silver sulfadiazine

Used to treat burns, bacterial and fungal infections of the skin. It kills bacteria, including some yeast. It also retains moisture in the wound, which is great for reptiles that heal faster when moisture is retained. The cream can be easily applied with a cotton swab. Don’t worry about dressing the wound unless the cream is in an area where it could be rubbed off. Read how our silver formula is more effective!

chlorhexidine

A properly diluted chlorhexidine solution is required as higher concentrations of the solution can damage human and reptile skin. It comes in two forms: a spray or chlorhexidine diacetate, sold as Nolvasan (0.05%), and chlorhexidine gluconate (4%), a topical treatment. Chlorhexidine has been shown to be more effective than betadine in mammals.

Neosporin

This ointment kills germs and retains moisture. Neosporin is a triple antibiotic cream; Any triple biotic ointment you use should not contain painkillers as this can be fatal to reptiles and amphibians.

household products

Honey is good to use in a pinch. It keeps the wound moist and covered. However, honey can be high in sugar, so it may not be the best when it comes to attracting flies or ants to the wound. Honey has not been proven to kill germs or bacteria.

Vaseline can protect the wound but has no germicidal properties

Listerine kills germs, but remember that this product can sting exposed skin and that ethanol and other alcohols can dry out skin.

Hopefully your reptile’s wounds are small enough to heal instantly and you don’t need to use any products on them. The above products are all commonly used, but of all these products, the Fauna Care Spray line is the easiest to use to protect your animal from infection. Read more about each of them here!

Sitz baths are a form of hydrotherapy (water therapy) that increases blood flow to the pelvic and abdominal areas. Perineal hygiene is the main reason for using this type of bath when the area is tender and inflamed.

A sitz bath may be ordered for your child for the following reasons:

Use at the beginning of treatment for discomfort and cleanliness

Can be used at any time for skin reactions in the perineum or perirectal area

Difficulty passing stool or persistent discomfort associated with perineal inflammation, hemorrhoids, and radiation-induced diarrhea.

Sitz baths help reduce the risk of infection and aid in skin healing.

Accessory for sitz baths

When your child is hospitalized, the nursing staff will collect these items for your child’s bath.

hip bath

Pack of Povidone Iodine Liquid

Bath towel

sitz bath steps

Fill the hip bath half full with water that is warm to the touch. Measure out 5mL to 10mL of Povidone-Iodine from the packet. Pour the povidone iodine into the sitz bath. stir. Help your child sit on the sitz bath for at least 15 minutes. After the sitz bath is complete, rinse off the povidone iodine with warm water. Help your child gently pat the skin dry or expose the area to room air. Helpful Hint: Do not use the entire Povidone Iodine packet for one (1) sitz bath. Too much povidone iodine in the bath can cause skin injuries.

If your child has a documented allergy to povidone-iodine (Betadine®) or if you have questions about sitz baths, please speak to your child’s nurse or doctor.

10. Constipation, Diarrhea:

Do not use laxatives

note

11. Dehydration:

When your reptile is severely dehydrated

Always support a dehydrated reptile during soaking

12. Parasites, Worms:

clean and disinfect

Do not use anthelmintics without first consulting a reptile veterinarian.

13. Mites:

Treating Your Reptile:

Treatment of the enclosure:

Note:

14. Cold Syndrome (RNS – Mucus Discharge):

Treatment:

15. Respiratory Infection:

Note:

Treat with a syringe

with your head down

Treat with a nebulizer:

A healthy reptile will have regular bowel movements. Some reptiles, such as iguanas and water dragons, prefer to defecate in water. Other reptiles use the floor of their enclosure. In general, reptile waste consists of three components: clear, liquid urine; a chalk-white urate; and a black-brown fecal material. Herbivorous reptile droppings smell different than the droppings of a reptile that consumes insect and/or animal protein. It’s a good idea to pay attention to your reptile’s habits in this regard, so you can spot when something isn’t right. Pay attention to the appearance, smell and texture, how often your reptile defecates and how much is normally produced. If you are aware of this, you will notice when there is a change. Any change could indicate a disease or medical problem, e.g. B. when constipation or diarrhea occurs. Constipation is uncomfortable and can cause behavioral changes in a Retilen. If a reptile used to handling becomes “thrashy” or irritable, constipation could be the problem. Constipation can occur when a reptile becomes too cold, is dehydrated, has an impaction (particulate substrate or other foreign object), suffers from a severe parasitic infection, is partially paralyzed from an injury, or suffers from a nutritional disorder. The best cure for constipation is a long warm bath and correcting the temperature in the enclosure. If a reptile has MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) you may need to bathe and massage daily to ensure the reptile is able to defecate all of its waste. Otherwise, toxins can accumulate in the body and cause further complications. Many products can be lethal and dosages used for birds or mammals would be significantly lower than for reptiles. Laxatives should only be administered by a qualified reptile veterinarian. If a warm bath does not induce a bowel movement, the reptile could be suffering from an obstruction. If you suspect the reptile is suffering from an obstruction. Get the advice of a reptile vet immediately. For some reptiles, it can take up to two weeks for food to pass through the digestive tract. Therefore, constipation may not become a problem right away, but using a laxative in the event of constipation could cause further damage. If you are sure there is no constipation and a warm bath is not working, you can try one of the following home remedies: feed the reptile a small piece of aloe vera, a section of about 1/2 inch. feed grated carrots or squash. These are anthelmintic (deworming) and can kill any parasites that cause constipation, which can lead to bowel movements. In reptiles, diarrhea can be caused by an unbalanced diet. For example, an excess of grapes, squash, or carrots can cause diarrhea. If your reptile has diarrhea, feed more leafy greens and fewer greens. If the diarrhea does not go away, seek the advice of a reptile veterinarian.: During the breeding season, when a female reptile is pregnant (carrying eggs), bowel movements may change. This is normal and should not be a cause for concern unless it continues for a long period of time. In this case, the reptile could become dehydrated and needs to be evaluated immediately by a reptile veterinarian. Water is absolutely the most important element to all of us, and reptiles are no exception. Every cell in the body needs water to function properly. Without enough water, the body’s cells and organs begin to shut down. If a reptile is allowed to become dehydrated there may come a point of no return. It is best to ensure your reptile is 100% adequately hydrated. Know your reptile and their specific water intake and moisture needs. Iguanas are an example of a reptile that generally does not drink water. They sometimes lick dew off the leaves, they breathe moist air, and they take in water through their vents. For reptiles with high moisture requirements, such as iguanas, it is important to ensure proper humidity. Some reptiles do not require high humidity, but will drink or bathe in water from a pool. Clean water should be available at all times. It is important to take the reptile to a qualified reptile vet immediately. The reptile may require intravenous fluids to prevent the condition from becoming fatal. A veterinarian can also determine the presence of dehydration through blood tests. Symptoms of dehydration in reptiles: – Skin loses elasticity, does not spring back quickly when pinched. – The skin becomes dry and scaly, dull or looks wrinkled. – In some snakes, you may notice a single fold of skin that runs the length of the body. – As dehydration progresses, the eyes can sink into the skull and create a very stark expression. – The mucous membranes in the mouths of turtles and lizards become dry, tongue may appear sticky. – There may be patches of unshed skin on the body, particularly on the head, toes, tail or comb. – There may be signs of hunger and muscle wasting.- The Reptile may be lethargic or not eating. DO NOT force feed until rehydration has begun – always follow your vet’s instructions. Treating Dehydration at Home: When giving fluids to a dehydrated reptile, always give small amounts frequently. Giving too much liquid at once can be fatal.- Using an eyedropper or small syringe (no needle) gently inject water into your reptile’s mouth. You may need to gently pull down on the dewlap or press down on the chin to open your reptile’s mouth. Mix Pedialyte with water at a ratio of 1:1 and administer orally using a dropper or syringe. Pedialyte was made for human babies and is available at your local supermarket. – Increase your reptile’s daily misting or turn on the humidifier. – Submerge the reptile in lukewarm water to prevent drowning. After the dehydration treatment, keep a close eye on your reptile to make sure it is drinking. In the case of an iguana that may not drink water, you should bathe your iguana daily and properly adjust the humidity in the enclosure. Intestinal parasites in reptiles can be a serious problem. Reptiles become infected with parasites through contact with other infected reptiles, contaminated objects in their environment, or by eating infected food. Reptilian parasites multiply rapidly and can cause a devastating disease. Among reptiles, roundworms, hookworms, and pinworms are the most common infections. Symptoms a reptile infected with parasites may have: – Loss of appetite – Weight loss – Vomiting or belching – Unusual stools – Diarrhea or frequent loose stools – Stools with a very strong odor – Lethargy – Stunting of growth with significant food intake – Sunken eyes – Bloated or very thin stomach Worms may be visible in a reptile’s feces or vomit. Other parasites can be microscopic and invisible to the naked eye. The larval forms of some parasite species can travel through the lungs and cause breathing difficulties and pneumonia. Severe infections can result in the death of your reptile without prompt treatment. If your reptile is exhibiting any of the symptoms listed above, it is best to seek the advice of a qualified reptile veterinarian. Treatment usually consists of an oral antiparasitic drug (anthelmintics or anthelmintics). Tests are required to determine what type of parasite your reptile has and what treatment is most appropriate. Your vet will need to examine a fecal sample under a microscope or send a sample to a lab. Some of the most commonly used drugs are febendazole, metronidazole, and ivermectin. Carefully follow the treatment plan your veterinarian prescribes. Failure to complete the prescribed treatment or giving your reptile too much medication can result in serious health problems. It is also very important that you maintain the reptile’s enclosure. Cleaning and disinfecting the enclosure should be repeated after treatment is complete to prevent re-infection. Or are a group of antiparasitics used to expel parasitic worms (helminths) and other internal parasites from the body by either stunning or killing them .especially for young or pregnant (pregnant) reptiles. Mites are small, eight-legged bugs that can be red or black. They suck blood, spread disease, and multiply very quickly. Controlling a mite infestation can be challenging and requires patience and determination. The best way to avoid mites is to quarantine any new reptile that comes into your home. If you have a very large infestation of mites affecting multiple reptiles, your vet may be able to prescribe a medication to control the infestation, such as You must still clean and disinfect all affected enclosures to prevent re-infestation. If you are using a chemical to treat your reptile for mites it is very important that you consult your veterinarian as some chemicals can burn your reptile. You must be informed of the product you are using and how to use it to avoid your already immunocompromised reptile becoming ill or, in the worst case, dying. Please do not use any chemical treatment against mites without first consulting a qualified reptile veterinarian. You must treat your reptile in a bath of warm water and Betadine to remove and kill mites and you must thoroughly disinfect and clean the enclosure. This process must be repeated until no more mites are detectable on the reptile or in the enclosure. Diligence is extremely important to eradicate a mite infestation. If you allow even one mite to remain, the infestation will return and you will have to repeat the process again. Bathing your reptile frequently in shoulder-deep warm water and soaking for at least 20 minutes will drown the mites and treat the bites your reptile. Add enough Betadine to the warm bath to make it the color of tea. Place your reptile in the bath and pour bath water over it to wash away the mites. Be very careful when pouring water around the eyes. Betadine does not kill mites, but it is an antiseptic and will help heal the bites on your reptile. If your reptile is defecating in the bathtub, empty the tub and take a fresh Betadine bath. After giving your reptile a good rinse, you can drain and clean the tub, give it a fresh Betadine bath and let it soak while you work on cleaning its enclosure, or you can leave it in another safe place or in a plastic tub with you Place Holes for Air Circulation You can clean your reptile’s enclosure while it is in a warm bath, or place it in a safe place away from its enclosure while you clean it. A plastic tub with holes punched for air can work for smaller reptiles, or you can keep your reptile in a separate room that is “reptile-proof,” meaning anything dangerous or small enough for it can be contained has been removed. Alternatively, you can set up a temporary enclosure with minimal decor for your smaller reptile to live in for a few days or so while you work on cleaning the enclosure. When cleaning your reptile enclosure, remove the substrate and place it in a plastic bag. Seal it tightly and put it in an outdoor trash can. You should remove all decorative items, food and water bowls and soak in boiling water for 30 minutes. Thoroughly vacuum the inside of the case, paying particular attention to corners and edges where the walls, floor, and ceiling meet. If the cabinet is wood or melamine, you can lightly scrape the interior walls with a paint scraper or spatula to knock off mites, then vacuum again. Dispose of the contents of your vacuum in a plastic bag, seal and throw in an outdoor bin. You should also clean your vacuum cleaner thoroughly if mites have settled in the brushes or on the tools. This process should remove any mites, mite eggs, and feces (white dust on the bottom of the enclosure). To disinfect the enclosure, wash all surfaces, even wood or melamine, with (0.75 tsp per 32 ounces of water) or. If using F10SC, allow the solution to dry on the surfaces after wiping off the excess. If you use soapy water, be sure to rinse and remove any soap residue. Alternatively, you can use a (1/2 cup bleach to 1 gallon water) to wipe down the inside of the case. If you are using a bleach solution, you must rinse until the odor of bleach is gone. Twigs or other enclosure decorations that are too large to fit in a pot or sink to boil in hot water can be taken outside and pour boiling water over them. Repeat this process many times to ensure you have killed and flushed away any mites present. Spray the decorations and branches with your sanitizing solution and rinse well to remove any harmful organisms. Allow them to dry and carefully inspect for mites before returning them to the enclosure. RNA is not a disease but a term used to describe bacterial/fungal/viral infection with one or more of a variety of organisms. RNA can occur in any species but is more common in leopard tortoises. Leopard tortoises do not do well in moisture, which may make them vulnerable. RNA can occur at any time of the year, it is not a seasonal infection. It can be difficult to detect in its early stages and can become a recurring disease. If your reptile becomes infected, it can become a vector and easily spread the infection to other reptiles even if it shows no symptoms. Once a treatment has been started, it should be completed even if the reptile appears to be doing better. Don’t ignore a runny nose. Take your reptile to a veterinarian as soon as possible for a diagnosis and treatment plan. A runny nose/infection left untreated can develop into chronic pneumonia that is difficult to cure. Sometimes RNS is accompanied by stomatitis, which requires an additional treatment plan. Your reptile vet may also prescribe a treatment for stomatitis. Note that vitamin A deficiency can be a contributing factor in a reptile becoming infected with RNA. Herbivores and omnivores should ensure they are getting plenty of foods containing vitamin A, including light yellow and orange vegetables and a variety of dark leafy greens. The best prevention of RNS is to ensure that your reptile’s environment is kept within optimal parameters suitable for their species and that their diet contains adequate levels of vitamin A. This includes maintaining the correct temperature, humidity and cleanliness in the enclosure. Note that humidity levels can change as the seasons change, so you may need to make adjustments based on the time of year in your area. The first thing you should do if your reptile has a runny nose is to make sure there is no foreign object in the nostril, such as a bug. B. a grass seed. Use a flashlight to look inside the nostril and tweezers to remove foreign objects. Flushing the nasal passages and sinuses with sterile saline can be helpful to remove thick mucus. This should only be done by a qualified reptile veterinarian. Next, correct any vitamin A deficiency by increasing foods high in vitamin A and/or providing a liquid vitamin A supplement. Supplements can be purchased from your veterinarian or local pharmacy and administered via dropper at a dose of 1,000-5,000 IU weekly. The term “IU” means “International Units” and is the usual dosage for liquid supplements that come with a dropper. Finally, if the runny nose persists for more than a few days, take your reptile to the vet and ask for a swab and tests to determine exactly what is causing the nasal discharge and to find treatment options. The treatment prescribed will likely include antibiotics, such as oxytetracycline, terramycin, tylosin, or enrofloxacin (Baytril), given at home by putting drops on your nasal passages or mouth until you’ve finished the course of antibiotics. It’s important to complete the entire course of antibiotics, even if your pet seems to be doing better. A respiratory infection in a reptile is any condition manifested by bubbling nasal discharge, foaming around the mouth, or the reptile breathing with its mouth open. Pneumonia is fluid in the lungs and is an advanced form of respiratory infection. Because a bacterial, viral, or fungal lung infection, lung mites, lungworms, an abscess or cancer in the lungs, or heart failure can also cause respiratory symptoms, it is best to take your reptile to a veterinarian for a definitive diagnosis. Each of these diseases has its own way of treating it, and the only way to be sure that the real problem is at hand is to get a correct diagnosis. Pneumonia is a very serious disease and causes a high mortality rate in reptiles, as the disease is often very advanced in a reptile by the time it is diagnosed. Any sign of a respiratory problem should be discussed with your reptile vet immediately. Certain tests will need to be performed by your vet to determine exactly what the problem is and how best to treat it. Respiratory symptoms in snakes are of particular concern because snakes lack a diaphragm and cannot cough. As a result, the lungs can fill with fluid, making it extremely difficult for the snake to breathe. In this case, a snake can be seen “posing,” propping up with its head and neck raised and its mouth open to breathe easier. This is usually a sign that the snake is very ill and should be taken seriously. Most reptile breathing problems are caused by poor husbandry practices. Reptiles that are kept at an incorrect temperature or humidity level for an extended period of time are more prone to respiratory problems as the reptile’s immune system can be weakened. With a weak immune system, a reptile may not be able to resist a bacterial, viral, or fungal infection or parasite that it might otherwise be able to overcome on its own. Proper temperature, humidity and terrarium cleanliness are of the utmost importance to help your reptile avoid breathing problems. Be sure to check all heaters and humidifiers right away to make sure everything is working properly. It’s a good idea to have a temperature gun on hand to ensure your temperature gauges are working properly. Another factor that contributes to respiratory infections in reptiles could be a lack of enough vitamin A in the diet. Make sure your herbivorous and omnivorous reptiles eat plenty of fruits and vegetables high in vitamin A, including dark leafy greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, squash, honeydew melon, bell peppers, and tropical fruits. Often a reptile will be treated for a respiratory infection with an antibiotic and once the antibiotics are finished the reptile will face another respiratory infection. In this case, a vitamin A deficiency could be the cause. Symptoms of a respiratory problem: – Weight loss – Bloated body or abdomen – Breathing with an open mouth – Whistling or clicking noises when breathing – Bubbling nasal discharge – Foam around the mouth – Posture (lying down with head and neck elevated) – Snakes may have the tongue fork stuck together As a home treatment, if symptoms are mild and you cannot get to the vet right away, you can treat with F10SC Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted to 3 mL (3 mL) per liter of water. You can use a very small syringe to inject a small amount of solution into each nostril or by setting up a nebulizer. Examine your reptile’s mouth prior to treatment. If there is a lot of mucus, use a cotton swab to remove as much as possible. If treating at home, it is still recommended that you take your reptile to the vet as soon as possible to ensure there are no foreign objects lodged in the nostrils and to ensure there are no parasites or worms in the respiratory tract. You will need a plastic syringe without a needle (if there is a needle you should be able to remove it). – Fill the syringe with enough liquid to inject a few small drops into each nostril. – Hold your reptile firmly at an angle of 45 degrees. To keep the solution from running into the lungs.- Before injecting the solution into the nostrils, place the thumb or forefinger of the hand holding your reptile in the soft space just below the jaw and gently push up, so that you press your tongue gently against the roof of your mouth. This will help prevent the reptile from inhaling the solution. – Inject a few drops of solution into one nostril. – Allow the solution to drip out of the nostril. – Remove the finger you are using to push the tongue up and release You the reptile Breathe in for a moment.- Repeat the process on the other side. You can treat in this way 2 or 3 times a day until the symptoms subside. You will need a reptile fogger, such as use as a nebulizer), a tub with a tight-fitting lid, and hose to connect the fogger to the tub.- Cut a hole in the tub roughly the size of your hose, and insert the hose into the hole. Connect the other end to the smoke machine.- Prepare the solution, insert it into the smoke machine and turn on the smoke machine.- Place your reptile in the tub and close the lid.- Let the reptile in the tub while the fogger runs for 10-20 minutes.- Turn off the fogger and leave the reptile in the tub for another 10-20 minutes.- Keep an eye on your reptile to make sure he doesn’t run out of breath. You can repeat this process daily for 10-14 days. While your reptile is being treated, make sure your reptile is eating a good diet, whatever treatment plan you and your vet decide on. The immune system will need all the help it can get during the treatment and recovery process.

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If you own snakes or have read about caring for them, you’ve undoubtedly heard of snake mites. Some books make snake mites absolute doomsday for a snake keeper. This isn’t usually the case, but don’t get me wrong, they can spread so quickly that they can be really devastating to a large collection. Even an infestation of just a few snakes can be deadly for the animal if not identified and treated in time. The purpose of this article is to provide the reader with the basic steps to identifying a mite problem in your snake collection and the steps we recommend you take to rectify the problem.

How do you know if your snake has mites? just look at it Snake mites (which are species-specific and therefore won’t infect you, your family, or your dog) are tiny arthropods that feed on the blood of live snakes. When alive, they look like tiny (pinhead-sized) black or sometimes red dots moving along the snake. They are usually concentrated around the eye, nostrils, and throat fold (the fold of skin on the snake’s chin). You may also spot mites on your hands after handling an infected animal, or sometimes the mite feces (particularly in dark-colored snakes) will be visible as white flakes or spots. Infected snakes will often water excessively in their water dish to drown the mites. If you notice excessive soaking, check your snake for mites as just described, or look for dead mites in the water itself. Don’t confuse dirt in the water with snake mites.

If your snake has mites, don’t fret. It most likely had nothing to do with your care of the snake. Think of mites like fleas on dogs. It does happen, and flare-ups do happen from time to time, but with the right attention and treatment, mites are easily controlled.

The following steps are the safest and most proven methods of mite eradication. While it may be possible to successfully treat mites while eliminating a step or two, it is not recommended. This can mean that your snake still has mites in the end and you’ve wasted your time.

Step 1

Get the supplies. You’ll need a secure plastic tub (Rubbermaid, etc.) that your snake will fit in. You will also need some products to actually kill the mites. We recommend Natural Chemistry’s Reptile Relief (to treat the animal) and Pro Products’ Provent-A-Mite (to treat the enclosure). Both products are available anytime on LLLReptile.com or by phone order. Avoid home remedies you may have heard of. We have seen these prove harmful or even deadly to snakes.

step 2

treat the animal. Place your snake in the plastic tub and spray liberally with Reptile Relief, wetting the animal from head to tail. (See the instructions on the Reptile Relief bottle for more information.) Now allow the animal to sit for 15 to 20 minutes while any mites on your snake are killed. After the allotted time, rinse the snake well with clean water and also rinse the tub. Now submerge the snake again, this time in chin-deep, clean water for another 15 to 20 minutes. This will prevent your snake from drying out as Reptile Relief will dry out the mites. In the approximately 30 minutes it takes to treat the animal, you can start working on the cage.

Note: We recommend that the animal is only re-treated twice a week apart, as just discussed, to eliminate the chance of a re-emergence of mites.

step 3

Treat the case. Getting rid of the live mites on the snake is only half the battle. There are still live mites (and mite eggs) in the enclosure which must be removed to prevent re-infestation. First remove all cage decorations (wood, stash boxes, water bowls, etc.). All of these items must be thoroughly cleaned in a solution of water and bleach. This is best accomplished by soaking the items in another large tub or trash can. Make sure that no part of the items are above the water level. The mites will climb up to prevent drowning, so the entire object must be submerged. You need to let these items soak for about 20 minutes. During the soak, remove and discard all substrate (bark, sani-chips, etc.) from your enclosure. To actually clean the cage you can use any mild detergent, Zoo Meds Wipe Out #3 Cage Cleaner or better yet, the Reptile Relief can be used directly on the cage surfaces. Wipe all surfaces thoroughly and rinse with water if residue is suspected. Use a non-toxic glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol to get your cage’s glass sparkling clean. Avoid products with strong fumes or ammonia. After all fumes (if any) have dissipated, refill the cage with fresh substrate.

By now your cage decoration should be ready for rinsing. Rinse well with a strong jet of clean water until no traces of bleach remain (odors, suds, etc.). Letting the washed items dry in the hot sun saves a lot of time.

Now you can put all your cage decor back into the cage except for the water bowl. That comes in last. Once the exhibit is set up and looking good, it’s time for the Provent-A-Mite. This stuff works great, but it’s powerful, so don’t use more than recommended. (See the directions on the Provent-A-Mite tin for more information.) Once dry, it’s completely harmless to your snake, but in liquid or gaseous form it can be harmful (that’s why you don’t want the water dish in there into when you spray.) You now spray Provent-A-Mite over all linens and decor at a rate of about one second per square foot (that’s just over a second of spray for a 10-gallon tank). Allow the case to air out for at least 15 minutes, or longer if you think you have sprayed too much.

step 4

Replace animal and water bowl. You can finally place your snake and its filled water bowl in the completely mite-free enclosure.

Overall, spending an hour or two on this project isn’t the end of the world, but it’s definitely worth it to avoid the stress on you and the animal. Therefore, prevention is the best medicine. Luckily, Provent-A-Mite will protect your enclosure from mites for about a month longer. We recommend that you treat your enclosure as directed each month, whether mites are present or not. It only takes a few minutes. Just remember to take out your snake and water bowl before spraying.

10. Constipation, Diarrhea:

Do not use laxatives

note

11. Dehydration:

When your reptile is severely dehydrated

Always support a dehydrated reptile during soaking

12. Parasites, Worms:

clean and disinfect

Do not use anthelmintics without first consulting a reptile veterinarian.

13. Mites:

Treating Your Reptile:

Treatment of the enclosure:

Note:

14. Cold Syndrome (RNS – Mucus Discharge):

Treatment:

15. Respiratory Infection:

Note:

Treat with a syringe

with your head down

Treat with a nebulizer:

A healthy reptile will have regular bowel movements. Some reptiles, such as iguanas and water dragons, prefer to defecate in water. Other reptiles use the floor of their enclosure. In general, reptile waste consists of three components: clear, liquid urine; a chalk-white urate; and a black-brown fecal material. Herbivorous reptile droppings smell different than the droppings of a reptile that consumes insect and/or animal protein. It’s a good idea to pay attention to your reptile’s habits in this regard, so you can spot when something isn’t right. Pay attention to the appearance, smell and texture, how often your reptile defecates and how much is normally produced. If you are aware of this, you will notice when there is a change. Any change could indicate a disease or medical problem, e.g. B. when constipation or diarrhea occurs. Constipation is uncomfortable and can cause behavioral changes in a Retilen. If a reptile used to handling becomes “thrashy” or irritable, constipation could be the problem. Constipation can occur when a reptile becomes too cold, is dehydrated, has an impaction (particulate substrate or other foreign object), suffers from a severe parasitic infection, is partially paralyzed from an injury, or suffers from a nutritional disorder. The best cure for constipation is a long warm bath and correcting the temperature in the enclosure. If a reptile has MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) you may need to bathe and massage daily to ensure the reptile is able to defecate all of its waste. Otherwise, toxins can accumulate in the body and cause further complications. Many products can be lethal and dosages used for birds or mammals would be significantly lower than for reptiles. Laxatives should only be administered by a qualified reptile veterinarian. If a warm bath does not induce a bowel movement, the reptile could be suffering from an obstruction. If you suspect the reptile is suffering from an obstruction. Get the advice of a reptile vet immediately. For some reptiles, it can take up to two weeks for food to pass through the digestive tract. Therefore, constipation may not become a problem right away, but using a laxative in the event of constipation could cause further damage. If you are sure there is no constipation and a warm bath is not working, you can try one of the following home remedies: feed the reptile a small piece of aloe vera, a section of about 1/2 inch. feed grated carrots or squash. These are anthelmintic (deworming) and can kill any parasites that cause constipation, which can lead to bowel movements. In reptiles, diarrhea can be caused by an unbalanced diet. For example, an excess of grapes, squash, or carrots can cause diarrhea. If your reptile has diarrhea, feed more leafy greens and fewer greens. If the diarrhea does not go away, seek the advice of a reptile veterinarian.: During the breeding season, when a female reptile is pregnant (carrying eggs), bowel movements may change. This is normal and should not be a cause for concern unless it continues for a long period of time. In this case, the reptile could become dehydrated and needs to be evaluated immediately by a reptile veterinarian. Water is absolutely the most important element to all of us, and reptiles are no exception. Every cell in the body needs water to function properly. Without enough water, the body’s cells and organs begin to shut down. If a reptile is allowed to become dehydrated there may come a point of no return. It is best to ensure your reptile is 100% adequately hydrated. Know your reptile and their specific water intake and moisture needs. Iguanas are an example of a reptile that generally does not drink water. They sometimes lick dew off the leaves, they breathe moist air, and they take in water through their vents. For reptiles with high moisture requirements, such as iguanas, it is important to ensure proper humidity. Some reptiles do not require high humidity, but will drink or bathe in water from a pool. Clean water should be available at all times. It is important to take the reptile to a qualified reptile vet immediately. The reptile may require intravenous fluids to prevent the condition from becoming fatal. A veterinarian can also determine the presence of dehydration through blood tests. Symptoms of dehydration in reptiles: – Skin loses elasticity, does not spring back quickly when pinched. – The skin becomes dry and scaly, dull or looks wrinkled. – In some snakes, you may notice a single fold of skin that runs the length of the body. – As dehydration progresses, the eyes can sink into the skull and create a very stark expression. – The mucous membranes in the mouths of turtles and lizards become dry, tongue may appear sticky. – There may be patches of unshed skin on the body, particularly on the head, toes, tail or comb. – There may be signs of hunger and muscle wasting.- The Reptile may be lethargic or not eating. DO NOT force feed until rehydration has begun – always follow your vet’s instructions. Treating Dehydration at Home: When giving fluids to a dehydrated reptile, always give small amounts frequently. Giving too much liquid at once can be fatal.- Using an eyedropper or small syringe (no needle) gently inject water into your reptile’s mouth. You may need to gently pull down on the dewlap or press down on the chin to open your reptile’s mouth. Mix Pedialyte with water at a ratio of 1:1 and administer orally using a dropper or syringe. Pedialyte was made for human babies and is available at your local supermarket. – Increase your reptile’s daily misting or turn on the humidifier. – Submerge the reptile in lukewarm water to prevent drowning. After the dehydration treatment, keep a close eye on your reptile to make sure it is drinking. In the case of an iguana that may not drink water, you should bathe your iguana daily and properly adjust the humidity in the enclosure. Intestinal parasites in reptiles can be a serious problem. Reptiles become infected with parasites through contact with other infected reptiles, contaminated objects in their environment, or by eating infected food. Reptilian parasites multiply rapidly and can cause a devastating disease. Among reptiles, roundworms, hookworms, and pinworms are the most common infections. Symptoms a reptile infected with parasites may have: – Loss of appetite – Weight loss – Vomiting or belching – Unusual stools – Diarrhea or frequent loose stools – Stools with a very strong odor – Lethargy – Stunting of growth with significant food intake – Sunken eyes – Bloated or very thin stomach Worms may be visible in a reptile’s feces or vomit. Other parasites can be microscopic and invisible to the naked eye. The larval forms of some parasite species can travel through the lungs and cause breathing difficulties and pneumonia. Severe infections can result in the death of your reptile without prompt treatment. If your reptile is exhibiting any of the symptoms listed above, it is best to seek the advice of a qualified reptile veterinarian. Treatment usually consists of an oral antiparasitic drug (anthelmintics or anthelmintics). Tests are required to determine what type of parasite your reptile has and what treatment is most appropriate. Your vet will need to examine a fecal sample under a microscope or send a sample to a lab. Some of the most commonly used drugs are febendazole, metronidazole, and ivermectin. Carefully follow the treatment plan your veterinarian prescribes. Failure to complete the prescribed treatment or giving your reptile too much medication can result in serious health problems. It is also very important that you maintain the reptile’s enclosure. Cleaning and disinfecting the enclosure should be repeated after treatment is complete to prevent re-infection. Or are a group of antiparasitics used to expel parasitic worms (helminths) and other internal parasites from the body by either stunning or killing them .especially for young or pregnant (pregnant) reptiles. Mites are small, eight-legged bugs that can be red or black. They suck blood, spread disease, and multiply very quickly. Controlling a mite infestation can be challenging and requires patience and determination. The best way to avoid mites is to quarantine any new reptile that comes into your home. If you have a very large infestation of mites affecting multiple reptiles, your vet may be able to prescribe a medication to control the infestation, such as You must still clean and disinfect all affected enclosures to prevent re-infestation. If you are using a chemical to treat your reptile for mites it is very important that you consult your veterinarian as some chemicals can burn your reptile. You must be informed of the product you are using and how to use it to avoid your already immunocompromised reptile becoming ill or, in the worst case, dying. Please do not use any chemical treatment against mites without first consulting a qualified reptile veterinarian. You must treat your reptile in a bath of warm water and Betadine to remove and kill mites and you must thoroughly disinfect and clean the enclosure. This process must be repeated until no more mites are detectable on the reptile or in the enclosure. Diligence is extremely important to eradicate a mite infestation. If you allow even one mite to remain, the infestation will return and you will have to repeat the process again. Bathing your reptile frequently in shoulder-deep warm water and soaking for at least 20 minutes will drown the mites and treat the bites your reptile. Add enough Betadine to the warm bath to make it the color of tea. Place your reptile in the bath and pour bath water over it to wash away the mites. Be very careful when pouring water around the eyes. Betadine does not kill mites, but it is an antiseptic and will help heal the bites on your reptile. If your reptile is defecating in the bathtub, empty the tub and take a fresh Betadine bath. After giving your reptile a good rinse, you can drain and clean the tub, give it a fresh Betadine bath and let it soak while you work on cleaning its enclosure, or you can leave it in another safe place or in a plastic tub with you Place Holes for Air Circulation You can clean your reptile’s enclosure while it is in a warm bath, or place it in a safe place away from its enclosure while you clean it. A plastic tub with holes punched for air can work for smaller reptiles, or you can keep your reptile in a separate room that is “reptile-proof,” meaning anything dangerous or small enough for it can be contained has been removed. Alternatively, you can set up a temporary enclosure with minimal decor for your smaller reptile to live in for a few days or so while you work on cleaning the enclosure. When cleaning your reptile enclosure, remove the substrate and place it in a plastic bag. Seal it tightly and put it in an outdoor trash can. You should remove all decorative items, food and water bowls and soak in boiling water for 30 minutes. Thoroughly vacuum the inside of the case, paying particular attention to corners and edges where the walls, floor, and ceiling meet. If the cabinet is wood or melamine, you can lightly scrape the interior walls with a paint scraper or spatula to knock off mites, then vacuum again. Dispose of the contents of your vacuum in a plastic bag, seal and throw in an outdoor bin. You should also clean your vacuum cleaner thoroughly if mites have settled in the brushes or on the tools. This process should remove any mites, mite eggs, and feces (white dust on the bottom of the enclosure). To disinfect the enclosure, wash all surfaces, even wood or melamine, with (0.75 tsp per 32 ounces of water) or. If using F10SC, allow the solution to dry on the surfaces after wiping off the excess. If you use soapy water, be sure to rinse and remove any soap residue. Alternatively, you can use a (1/2 cup bleach to 1 gallon water) to wipe down the inside of the case. If you are using a bleach solution, you must rinse until the odor of bleach is gone. Twigs or other enclosure decorations that are too large to fit in a pot or sink to boil in hot water can be taken outside and pour boiling water over them. Repeat this process many times to ensure you have killed and flushed away any mites present. Spray the decorations and branches with your sanitizing solution and rinse well to remove any harmful organisms. Allow them to dry and carefully inspect for mites before returning them to the enclosure. RNA is not a disease but a term used to describe bacterial/fungal/viral infection with one or more of a variety of organisms. RNA can occur in any species but is more common in leopard tortoises. Leopard tortoises do not do well in moisture, which may make them vulnerable. RNA can occur at any time of the year, it is not a seasonal infection. It can be difficult to detect in its early stages and can become a recurring disease. If your reptile becomes infected, it can become a vector and easily spread the infection to other reptiles even if it shows no symptoms. Once a treatment has been started, it should be completed even if the reptile appears to be doing better. Don’t ignore a runny nose. Take your reptile to a veterinarian as soon as possible for a diagnosis and treatment plan. A runny nose/infection left untreated can develop into chronic pneumonia that is difficult to cure. Sometimes RNS is accompanied by stomatitis, which requires an additional treatment plan. Your reptile vet may also prescribe a treatment for stomatitis. Note that vitamin A deficiency can be a contributing factor in a reptile becoming infected with RNA. Herbivores and omnivores should ensure they are getting plenty of foods containing vitamin A, including light yellow and orange vegetables and a variety of dark leafy greens. The best prevention of RNS is to ensure that your reptile’s environment is kept within optimal parameters suitable for their species and that their diet contains adequate levels of vitamin A. This includes maintaining the correct temperature, humidity and cleanliness in the enclosure. Note that humidity levels can change as the seasons change, so you may need to make adjustments based on the time of year in your area. The first thing you should do if your reptile has a runny nose is to make sure there is no foreign object in the nostril, such as a bug. B. a grass seed. Use a flashlight to look inside the nostril and tweezers to remove foreign objects. Flushing the nasal passages and sinuses with sterile saline can be helpful to remove thick mucus. This should only be done by a qualified reptile veterinarian. Next, correct any vitamin A deficiency by increasing foods high in vitamin A and/or providing a liquid vitamin A supplement. Supplements can be purchased from your veterinarian or local pharmacy and administered via dropper at a dose of 1,000-5,000 IU weekly. The term “IU” means “International Units” and is the usual dosage for liquid supplements that come with a dropper. Finally, if the runny nose persists for more than a few days, take your reptile to the vet and ask for a swab and tests to determine exactly what is causing the nasal discharge and to find treatment options. The treatment prescribed will likely include antibiotics, such as oxytetracycline, terramycin, tylosin, or enrofloxacin (Baytril), given at home by putting drops on your nasal passages or mouth until you’ve finished the course of antibiotics. It’s important to complete the entire course of antibiotics, even if your pet seems to be doing better. A respiratory infection in a reptile is any condition manifested by bubbling nasal discharge, foaming around the mouth, or the reptile breathing with its mouth open. Pneumonia is fluid in the lungs and is an advanced form of respiratory infection. Because a bacterial, viral, or fungal lung infection, lung mites, lungworms, an abscess or cancer in the lungs, or heart failure can also cause respiratory symptoms, it is best to take your reptile to a veterinarian for a definitive diagnosis. Each of these diseases has its own way of treating it, and the only way to be sure that the real problem is at hand is to get a correct diagnosis. Pneumonia is a very serious disease and causes a high mortality rate in reptiles, as the disease is often very advanced in a reptile by the time it is diagnosed. Any sign of a respiratory problem should be discussed with your reptile vet immediately. Certain tests will need to be performed by your vet to determine exactly what the problem is and how best to treat it. Respiratory symptoms in snakes are of particular concern because snakes lack a diaphragm and cannot cough. As a result, the lungs can fill with fluid, making it extremely difficult for the snake to breathe. In this case, a snake can be seen “posing,” propping up with its head and neck raised and its mouth open to breathe easier. This is usually a sign that the snake is very ill and should be taken seriously. Most reptile breathing problems are caused by poor husbandry practices. Reptiles that are kept at an incorrect temperature or humidity level for an extended period of time are more prone to respiratory problems as the reptile’s immune system can be weakened. With a weak immune system, a reptile may not be able to resist a bacterial, viral, or fungal infection or parasite that it might otherwise be able to overcome on its own. Proper temperature, humidity and terrarium cleanliness are of the utmost importance to help your reptile avoid breathing problems. Be sure to check all heaters and humidifiers right away to make sure everything is working properly. It’s a good idea to have a temperature gun on hand to ensure your temperature gauges are working properly. Another factor that contributes to respiratory infections in reptiles could be a lack of enough vitamin A in the diet. Make sure your herbivorous and omnivorous reptiles eat plenty of fruits and vegetables high in vitamin A, including dark leafy greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, squash, honeydew melon, bell peppers, and tropical fruits. Often a reptile will be treated for a respiratory infection with an antibiotic and once the antibiotics are finished the reptile will face another respiratory infection. In this case, a vitamin A deficiency could be the cause. Symptoms of a respiratory problem: – Weight loss – Bloated body or abdomen – Breathing with an open mouth – Whistling or clicking noises when breathing – Bubbling nasal discharge – Foam around the mouth – Posture (lying down with head and neck elevated) – Snakes may have the tongue fork stuck together As a home treatment, if symptoms are mild and you cannot get to the vet right away, you can treat with F10SC Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted to 3 mL (3 mL) per liter of water. You can use a very small syringe to inject a small amount of solution into each nostril or by setting up a nebulizer. Examine your reptile’s mouth prior to treatment. If there is a lot of mucus, use a cotton swab to remove as much as possible. If treating at home, it is still recommended that you take your reptile to the vet as soon as possible to ensure there are no foreign objects lodged in the nostrils and to ensure there are no parasites or worms in the respiratory tract. You will need a plastic syringe without a needle (if there is a needle you should be able to remove it). – Fill the syringe with enough liquid to inject a few small drops into each nostril. – Hold your reptile firmly at an angle of 45 degrees. To keep the solution from running into the lungs.- Before injecting the solution into the nostrils, place the thumb or forefinger of the hand holding your reptile in the soft space just below the jaw and gently push up, so that you press your tongue gently against the roof of your mouth. This will help prevent the reptile from inhaling the solution. – Inject a few drops of solution into one nostril. – Allow the solution to drip out of the nostril. – Remove the finger you are using to push the tongue up and release You the reptile Breathe in for a moment.- Repeat the process on the other side. You can treat in this way 2 or 3 times a day until the symptoms subside. You will need a reptile fogger, such as use as a nebulizer), a tub with a tight-fitting lid, and hose to connect the fogger to the tub.- Cut a hole in the tub roughly the size of your hose, and insert the hose into the hole. Connect the other end to the smoke machine.- Prepare the solution, insert it into the smoke machine and turn on the smoke machine.- Place your reptile in the tub and close the lid.- Let the reptile in the tub while the fogger runs for 10-20 minutes.- Turn off the fogger and leave the reptile in the tub for another 10-20 minutes.- Keep an eye on your reptile to make sure he doesn’t run out of breath. You can repeat this process daily for 10-14 days. While your reptile is being treated, make sure your reptile is eating a good diet, whatever treatment plan you and your vet decide on. The immune system will need all the help it can get during the treatment and recovery process.

Does your reptilian companion have a cut or scrape that needs attention? The good news is that reptiles are incredibly self-healing, even after serious wounds sustained from predators in the wild. The quickest way for certain species of lizards to heal a superficial wound is to shed their layer of skin. The deeper the wound, the more layers of skin have to be shed and the longer it takes for the wound to heal.

Small wounds in reptiles heal well on their own. However, if you think your pet is at risk of infection or is a weak or old person, you can help him by doing the following:

Fauna care spray

ointments and creams

household items

In general, wound healing in reptiles can take longer than in mammals or birds due to a lower metabolism. It’s best to keep your injured pet in a sterile and clean environment. Place them in a hospital tank or in quarantine, making sure it’s the right size and meeting the animal’s temperature and thermoregulation needs. Lay out paper towels and replace them as soon as there is waste to avoid breeding bacteria in the area. If your pet has deep cuts or you suspect a broken bone, take them to the vet.

Covering the wound with a topical treatment disinfects and covers the wound to keep dirt and germs out. It keeps the wound moist to allow faster healing. We’ve listed some commonly used products and told you when Fauna Care’s formulas outperform them!

Products

betadine

Veterinary betadine (povidone iodine) is commonly used to prepare the skin and mucous membranes before surgery. It can be used to irrigate wounds, prevent bacterial infections and act as an emergency antiseptic for minor cuts, scrapes and burns. Read how this snake owner used a diluted solution of betadine to treat scale rot. The solution reduces the bacteria that can cause skin infections.

silver sulfadiazine

Used to treat burns, bacterial and fungal infections of the skin. It kills bacteria, including some yeast. It also retains moisture in the wound, which is great for reptiles that heal faster when moisture is retained. The cream can be easily applied with a cotton swab. Don’t worry about dressing the wound unless the cream is in an area where it could be rubbed off. Read how our silver formula is more effective!

chlorhexidine

A properly diluted chlorhexidine solution is required as higher concentrations of the solution can damage human and reptile skin. It comes in two forms: a spray or chlorhexidine diacetate, sold as Nolvasan (0.05%), and chlorhexidine gluconate (4%), a topical treatment. Chlorhexidine has been shown to be more effective than betadine in mammals.

Neosporin

This ointment kills germs and retains moisture. Neosporin is a triple antibiotic cream; Any triple biotic ointment you use should not contain painkillers as this can be fatal to reptiles and amphibians.

household products

Honey is good to use in a pinch. It keeps the wound moist and covered. However, honey can be high in sugar, so it may not be the best when it comes to attracting flies or ants to the wound. Honey has not been proven to kill germs or bacteria.

Vaseline can protect the wound but has no germicidal properties

Listerine kills germs, but remember that this product can sting exposed skin and that ethanol and other alcohols can dry out skin.

Hopefully your reptile’s wounds are small enough to heal instantly and you don’t need to use any products on them. The above products are all commonly used, but of all these products, the Fauna Care Spray line is the easiest to use to protect your animal from infection. Read more about each of them here!

Sept. 16, 2021 – The idea that gargling with the common antiseptic Betadine will prevent COVID-19 is finding a home in the corners of social media, but there’s no evidence it works. Even the manufacturer says so.

Betadine, the brand name for povidone iodine, is a topical medication used to treat cuts, scrapes, and burns and to prevent or treat minor skin infections. Betadine causes a sore throat when you gargle, but that doesn’t fight the coronavirus either, the company said.

“Betadine Antiseptic First Aid products have not been approved to treat coronavirus,” reads an official statement on the company’s website. “Products should only be used to prevent infection of minor cuts, scrapes and burns. Betadine antiseptic products have not been shown to be effective in treating or preventing COVID-19 or any other virus.”

But a person pretending to be a doctor posted a video on Facebook and Twitter with a caption in Thai, which read: “Doctor suggests boosting immunity to fight Covid-19 by gargling with povidone -Iodine and protect the virus from entering the lungs #TokMaiTiang,” reports Newsweek.

It may surprise you that reptiles require dental and oral care.

Your pet is susceptible to a variety of health problems stemming from their own mouth. The most common dental disease is mouth rot. Mouth rot, or ulcerative stomatitis, is an infection of your lizard’s gums and mouth caused by small cuts and food stuck in the teeth. If left untreated, the infection could kill your reptile. Snakes and lizards are particularly susceptible to the disease. Fortunately, mouth rot is very easy to monitor and treat.

where to look

Check your reptile’s mouth for food stuck between its teeth and gums and for cuts in the mouth tissue. If you find any of these marks, look for more prominent symptoms of mouth rot such as:

Reduced water absorption

disinterest in food

thickening of the saliva

Yellow plaques in the soft tissues of the mouth

Yellow cheesy pus in and around the mouth

Swelling of gums and mouth tissues

Swelling of the face and head (usually only in advanced cases)

Contact your vet immediately if you notice any of these signs. If left untreated, a potentially fatal infection could develop.

How to treat an infection

Your vet will prescribe antibiotics and teach you how to clean the infected areas of your mouth. When treating mouth sores or other health issues, please consider the following:

This is a serious problem that requires professional treatment.

Even the mildest human medicine can be dangerous for your pet, so never self-medicate. Hydrogen peroxide, for example, can destroy the delicate healthy tissues in your reptile’s mouth.

It’s not uncommon for your pet to be accidentally aspirated, so training from your veterinarian is essential.

How to prevent infection

The easiest way to avoid mouth rot is to take your pet for yearly checkups and generally give them proper care. Below are some smart practices to follow to avoid health problems:

Proper ambient temperature and humidity are critical to good reptile health, as is adequate space.

Your reptile’s habitat should also include a hiding place or shelter where it can rest.

His diet should be plentiful and nutritious.

If you examine your pet for no signs of mouth rot, but do see food or substrate stuck in it, carefully open his mouth and remove the object with a soft cotton swab.

Be very careful with your pet’s mouth: it is very easy to break and damage your pet’s jaws or even injure another part of your pet’s body during handling.

Remember that the smaller the reptiles, the more fragile they are.

If you’ve never tried opening your pet’s mouth before, consult your veterinarian for tips on handling and restraining your pet.

Mouth rot is not a disease in itself, but a secondary condition caused by an infection. Strong, healthy reptiles are at very little risk.