Binding Off In The Middle Of A Row? Top 42 Best Answers

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Can you cast on in the middle of a row?

Casting on is always the first step in a knit project. However, it is also sometimes necessary to cast on in the middle of a row or to add them at the end of a row. A mid-row or mid-round cast on is often used for buttonholes and underarm stitches. End of row (or beginning of row) cast ons are usually used for shaping.

How do you continue knitting after binding off?

Can you continue knitting after casting off? Not unless you take out the bind off row. You will need to take out the row where you finished off the stitches and place the live stitches back on your needles. If you’ve already cut the yarn tail, you will need to join a new strand from the working yarn.

Tutorial: Binding Off in the Middle of a Row

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What do you do when you’re done knitting? Learn how to finish knitting – aka cast off or bind off.

It feels so good to reach the last row of your knitting project and think – I’m done! But not so fast. All these stitches have yet to come off the needle, so how do we do that?

This process of finishing the knitting is commonly referred to as binding off or binding off. These are the two terms you might see on a pattern. It could mean “bind off all stitches” or “bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows”. We will use the terms interchangeably here to refer to the process of closing a knit or purl stitch so that it is no longer “alive” and can unravel.

First, let’s look at some common questions you may have about knit bind off. Then we will get into the details of how to perform this important step.

Frequently asked questions about binding off

How do you finish a knitting process? This closing of stitches so they don’t unravel is called binding off or binding off. To do this, you work a few stitches (usually in the same stitch pattern you used for the last row, sometimes the pattern dictates) and then skip the first stitch over the second. Work another stitch and skip the first over the second and repeat. We’ll go into more detail on this process below. How do you drop off? Remember that the term “bind off” is the same as “bind off” and is how we finish the knitting. As mentioned above, we will be working a few stitches at a time, skipping one over the other. If you are working in stockinette stitch or garter stitch, you should bind off in the stitch pattern. Some pattern instructions say “rib” or “bind off as if to knit”. Can I continue knitting after binding off? Not unless you take the row out to bind off. You need to take out the row where you finished stitches and put the living stitches back on your needles. If you have already cut the end of the yarn, then you need to connect a new thread from the working yarn. Does every project have to have a trim edge? Not having a good cast-off edge is one of the most common knitting mistakes new knitters make. You need to work the stitches so they don’t unravel, and there are several methods of binding off, but every knitting project needs a way to hold the stitches securely.

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Video tutorial on knitting the bind off

In this video tutorial I will show you step by step how to cast off/bin off while knitting. The skill level for this technique is beginner and it is a skill every knitter must master.

How to finish knitting (photo tutorial)

Common abbreviations

You might see this as BO for bind off. Typically CO is not used at the end of a project as it means cast on.

Remarks

It is important not to knit these stitches too tightly as this will not allow stretch in your cast-off edge. This takes some practice, so it’s a good idea to start with some simple projects that don’t need to stretch (like a tea towel or scarf).

instructions

Start on a new row and knit the next 2 sts. In this example we are using garter stitch, so we will knit them.

Now insert the purl needle into the first stitch and “jump” over the second stitch and off the needle.

You now have only one stitch left on the right needle.

Work one more stitch (this is also knitted, but it doesn’t matter if you knit or purl, it just depends on the pattern). Then insert the left needle into the first stitch and “jump” it over the second stitch and off the right needle as before.

Repeat this process until there is only one stitch left.

When you have only one stitch left, cut off a long tail of yarn. Wrap the end of the yarn around the knitting needle and “jump” the last stitch over it.

Then pull the yarn end through and pull tight. Now you’re ready to weave in that end!

See, it’s pretty easy! This is definitely one of the basics that you should learn when you start knitting.

Tips for a perfect bind off

The greatest thing will be not to work this edge too hard. As I mentioned above, getting a perfect take off takes practice, and don’t let that get you down if your first few attempts aren’t perfect. It’s definitely a journey!

If you find yourself binding off too tightly over and over again, you can remedy this by using larger needles. Just switch to a size or two larger when you’re ready to bind off – it can really help to maintain constant tension on a bind off edge.

Remember that you will never have more than two stitches on the right needle at a time. If you do this then you forgot to skip one and will have to undo the stitches you worked after two. Once you get started and have a stitch on your right needle, you’ll knit one at a time, and then “skip” one until you’re finished.

If you’re having trouble getting the yarn end through the very last stitch, it’s okay to take out your needle and make that stitch big enough for your fingers to reach in and grab the end. I do this a lot just because I don’t feel like pulling the thread through a small stitch.

You can also use a crochet hook to “skip” the stitches if you have trouble with this part. Sometimes they tend to slip off and a crochet hook can grab them and help pass one stitch over the other.

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This is seriously the easiest cast ever!

Result: bind off edge How to finish knitting (The art of binding off) Print When you finish knitting, what do you do? Learn how to finish knitting – aka cast off or bind off. Active time 5 minutes Total time 5 minutes Difficulty Easy Materials Yarn of your choice Tools Knitting needles to suit yarn weight Instructions Start on a new row and knit the next 2 sts. In this example we are using garter stitch so we will knit them. Now insert the purl needle into the first stitch and “jump” over the second stitch and off the needle. You now have only one stitch left on the right needle. Work one more stitch (this is also knitted, but it doesn’t matter if you knit or purl, it just depends on the pattern). Again, insert the left needle into the first stitch and “jump” it over the second stitch and off the right needle. Repeat this process until there is only one stitch left. When you have only one stitch left, cut off a long tail of yarn. Wrap the end of the yarn around the knitting needle and “jump” the last stitch over it. Then pull the yarn end through and pull tight. Now you are ready to weave in this end! Notes It is important not to knit these stitches too tightly as this will not stretch the cast-off edge. This takes some practice, so it’s a good idea to start with some simple projects that don’t need to stretch (like a tea towel or scarf).

Today we learned how to finish knitting with a bind off. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Have fun knitting!

amanda

Why are my cast on stitches loose?

If your cast-on stitches are too loose, you can try using needles a size or two smaller. But make sure you don’t overcompensate and make your stitches too tight. You can also try to space the stitches closer together on the needle as you cast on. Most cast ons start with a slipknot (right).

Tutorial: Binding Off in the Middle of a Row

We bet many of you are “crossover crafters” who have delved into not only quilting but other fiber arts as well. how do we know Well we feel like the folks in our office are a microcosm of quilters everywhere and none of us have just one passion when it comes to creativity!

Right now, some employees at the Martingale office are crazy about trying knitting for the first time. Others have been knitting for years. Both groups benefit from a best-seller on knitting cast-on and bind-off: Appropriately, it says cast-on, cast-off!

Regardless of whether you are a beginner or an experienced professional, every knitter starts with the first step: casting on. If you are new to knitting, you may find that your cast-on stitches are too tight or too loose. Today we’re sharing some helpful tips from bestselling author Cap Sease that are crucial to getting your next knitting project off to a great start – from the very first stitch!

Casting tips

Excerpt from Cast On, Bind Off by Cap Sease

Everyone knits differently. Although patterns call for a certain size needle, you may find yourself casting on tighter or looser than a project dictates.

If your cast-on stitches are too tight, many people recommend casting on with needles one or two sizes larger than the needles recommended in the pattern. This will loosen up the stitches, but it can also cause the first row of stitches to lengthen and look different from the rest of your knit. It can be more effective to place the stitches further apart on the needle when casting on. This will give you some extra yarn, which will make the stitches slightly larger when knitting the first row.

Three of over 120 keystroke examples from Cast On, Bind Off

If your cast-on stitches are too loose, you can try using needles that are a size or two smaller. But be careful not to overcompensate and make your stitches too tight. You can also try placing the stitches closer together when you cast on the needle.

Most anchor points start with a slipknot (right). Although knots generally end up in the seam of your garment where they are not visible, many people just don’t like slipknots in their knit. If you’re in this group, choose a method like a loop, knit, or cable cast-on where the knot is at the beginning of the row.

After you have cast on, you can untie the knot and easily remove it from the needle. However, there are many methods where this doesn’t work, including the long-tail casts. For this you can use the twist start technique (left) found in Cast On, Bind Off.

Get more handy tips, along with 211 cast-on and bind-off techniques, in Cast On, Bind Off – pick up your copy at any book store or our website, ShopMartingale.com. The book is available in softcover or hardcover with concealed spiral binding, so you can choose your favorite format!

What other creative pursuits do you have besides quilting?

Sewing bags, clothes or home accessories

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Tell us in the comments!

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Do you bind off on right or wrong side?

Usually, you bind off on the right side of the work but you can also bind off on the wrong side if needed. Unless otherwise specified in your pattern, you would work purl stitches on your bind off so that the right side of your work shows a knitted bind off pattern.

Tutorial: Binding Off in the Middle of a Row

Cast off on wrong side of work

Knit Witch Video – Cast off on wrong side of your work

Occasionally you may need to bind off on the wrong side of your work. Normally you cast off in the right side of the piece, but you can cast off in the wrong side if necessary. Unless otherwise stated in your pattern, you would purl stitches when binding off, so the right side of your piece shows a knitted binding off pattern.

Does casting off count as a row?

The cast on doesn’t count as a row. But it’s easier to count all the rows in the worked fabric, below the needle, and just not count the loops on the needle.

Tutorial: Binding Off in the Middle of a Row

The instruction seems to be quite simple: work 20 rows. Or the equally modest one: knit in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 25 cm.

As with so many things in knitting, it’s quite simple, but it’s still the source of debate. It’s just the kind of thing that seems so obvious when you’re just starting out that you don’t really think to ask.

So you just do what makes the most sense for you. And keep it up. Until you realize a few years later that someone else is doing it completely differently.

Let’s answer these most basic questions: How do you count and measure knitwear?

This column is about counting. Stay tuned for my next column: Measuring.

Count stitches in the fabric

Why do I state “in fabric”? Because counting stitches that are on the needle is exactly what it sounds like: you count the stitches. You will be pleased to know that no further instructions are required in this score.

Counting stitches in fabric is also relatively easy. Stockinette Stitch stitch looks like the letter V or a heart shape:

To make matters worse, the knitted fabric looks the same if you look at it cast-on edge down or “upside down” with cast-on edge up. If you turn the work (or photo) upside down, you still have clean Vs, but now they’re offset by half a stitch. The perfect V of the stitch is formed from the right leg of one V and the left leg of another. Or, if you see it differently, it’s a small tent shape:

You can count both forms: it really doesn’t matter. For an accurate count, make sure you always count the same shapes: either only the down-facing OR only the up-facing Vs.

Purl stitches look like bumps that are harder to spot due to their construction. A purl stitch is looped around its bottom neighbor, the stitch on the row below:

They have both upward and downward loops, the stitch and its semi-staggered upside-down neighbor. Again, you can count both shapes – but you should only count one.

If you need to count purl stitches in a ribbed or ribbed fabric, turn the fabric over and count the stitches. Much easier!

In Garter Stitch you also have downward curves, “umbrellas”, and upward curves, “smiles”. The highlighted “umbrella” in the photo below is a knit stitch, the same basic V-shape as the stockinette knit stitch, but its top loop is caught in the edge:

In a garter st back, the downward curves are the tops of the stitches in a row; The upward curves are the bottoms of the stitches from the next row up. For an accurate stitch count, choose a curve direction and count only that.

In the MDK shop we have the measuring device! Thank you for your store purchases. They support everything we offer here at MDK. Akerworks Swatch Gauge

count rows

If you’re working a plain fabric, or at least a fabric that has a few rows of knit stitches, like a rib, then count the Vs of the knit stitches up and down vertically.

To count the rows in a stocking back column: simply turn it over and count the knit stitches.

When you’re working in garter stitch, it’s quite difficult to count individual rows because the fabric will compress vertically. So we don’t. We count ridges: Each ridge counts for two rows.

Odd Subtlety/Controversy #1: If you’re counting rows in fabric that’s on the needle, you’re not counting the stitches that are on the needle in a WIP.

What you really shouldn’t be counting is the “line” formed by the cast-on. The attack does not count as a row. But it’s easier to count all the rows in the knitted fabric below the needle and just not count the stitches on the needle.

Some may disagree with me. It doesn’t matter as long as you are consistent in your own work. I see it like this: If I am supposed to cast on 10 stitches and knit 10 rows and I count my rows while working, I start counting with the first row after casting on. If I work 10 rows I get 11 stacked stitches – including those on the needle – one of which corresponds to the cast on. So just count the stitches under the needle all the way down.

Odd Subtlety/Controversy #2: I casually noted above that a garter comb is two rows. And that you don’t count your throw when you count rows. But there is an exception to this.

If you are using the long tail method and knitting the first row (work flat, not joined in the round) your cast on edge will look like a purl comb. And if you’re counting garter combs, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t count that as your first comb. In fact it is advisable. A neat and tidy edge is created where the stop disappears into the fabric. This is recommended in the Mason-Dixon Knitting log cabin patterns!

(Editor’s note: We’re content, Kate, as we’ve had to argue this point at times, and we haven’t been able to articulate the logic as clearly as you do, but we’ve continued to fight for our cause nonetheless. With the clear edge in it take pictures, we’ll let our case rest.)

But this nuance builds on the properties of the Long Tail Cast. As you work the long tail, you create knit stitches, and on the back side—the side you’re looking at when you start working the first row—you’ll see purl stitches.

If you use a different attachment method, e.g. B. the cable or the knitting method, then the edge is more in contradiction to the garter.

Compare the two:

Above: cast cable. Below: cast long tail.

(If you absolutely don’t want that first purl comb for the garter or any kind of comb, I recommend using either the reverse loop method or the purl version of the long tail so you get the knitted/stocking side of the edge facing of the first row knitted .)

The corollary of this is that your bind off can also be used to create another ridge: if you bind off in knit in the wrong side, it will show up as a neat purl ridge.

Bonus tip

If you want a clean edge in your stockinette knit fabric, use the (standard, knitwise version of) long tail casting on method and purl the first row. When you work in the round, this happens naturally. Or, heck, get smart and use the purl variation of the long tail method and then knit the first row.

In the pattern below I used two different versions of the long tail method and then knitted the first row.

The smoother loops on the right were created using the purlwise variant of the long-tail method. The bumps on the left side are because I used the standard knitted version of the long tail base.

Odd Subtlety/Controversy #2.1: This means that two knitters could make fabrics that have the same number of ridges but a different number of rows. Yes! bonkers! But it absolutely doesn’t matter. You can’t really see individual garter stitch rows, so as long as you’re consistent within a given project, you’ll be fine. It’s all about the ridges.

This might prove useful

Knitting Help – Binding Off in the Middle of a Row

Knitting Help – Binding Off in the Middle of a Row
Knitting Help – Binding Off in the Middle of a Row


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Binding-Off in the Middle of a Row

There are several reasons why you may need to cast off stitches in the middle of a row in a pattern – for example, at the neckline of sweaters. In this video I show you how to do this while maintaining the correct stitch count.

The basket stitch in my example is the stitch I use in my Mimi Hooded Scarf pattern.

The needles I use are Knitter’s Pride Bamboo DPNs.

The yarn I use in the video is Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Bulky.

The nail polish I wear is Julep, color “Amanda”.

My silver ring is actually a knitting needle gauge and can be found here.

Tutorial: Binding Off in the Middle of a Row

Garment knitting often involves binding off in the middle of a row to create necklines and armholes. If you’re like me, that little gap just before the first cast-off stitch bothers you. Today I’m going to show you how to bridge that gap!

In this pattern I cast on 24 stitches and made three sections of 8 stitches using markers. Generally, to cast off the middle stitches, you would work to the marker, move the marker and cast off the next 8 stitches.

Instead, to close the gap, knit to one stitch before the marker and then do the following: KFB into the next stitch. You would now have 9 stitches before the marker instead of 8. Use the 9th stitch (the new stitch just made from the KFB) to start the cast off. This means that you have to cast off an extra stitch.

Basically you create an extra stitch on the row and bind off immediately so this doesn’t affect your stitch count – but it creates a clean start for your bind off. The gap is gone and your neckline will look cleaner. Ta there!

The difference will be much more visible after you have knitted a few rows on each side.

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