Bird Tables With Slate Roof? The 57 New Answer

Use wood that will not split or disintegrate when wet – sustainably sourced, exterior grade plywood 0.5cm to 1cm thick is ideal.

Any cheap piece of solid wood makes an excellent bird table.

There is no maximum size, but don’t make the table too small or the birds will fight and the shyer species will be kept away: 30cm x 50cm is about right.

A rim of about 1 cm around the edge prevents food from being bumped or blown away. Leave gaps at the corners to allow rain to drain and make cleaning easier.

Before assembly, sand it smooth to remove crevices that may harbor dirt and disease. It is best to leave the table untreated. If it needs treatment to extend its life, use a water-based preservative and ensure it is dry before use.

A few nails or hooks in the edges of the table are useful for hanging nut or seed food or fat balls.

A roof provides some protection (from rain, snow, and hunting sparrowhawks) to feeding birds. Some birds even sleep on a table with a roof at night. It also provides a dry place for seed bins and nut bins. However, a roof can discourage the shyer and larger species from visiting, and in most cases an open table really does do just as well.

Download a plan to build your bird table. (JPG, 74KB)

If possible, set up several different feeders to reduce the number of birds in one location, and move your feeders around regularly to prevent a build-up of bird seed and droppings that might contaminate the ground below. You can find more information on the hygienic maintenance of feeding tables here.

April 1, 2022 Plague Peeves

With the growing popularity of bird feeding, people are now faced with an “interesting” problem – rats. The nasty rodents are easily attracted to the seeds that people feed to birds and make themselves unwanted house guests.

So how do you protect your property from hungry invaders?

let’s find out In this article, we’re going to talk about the pros and cons of keeping your property rat-free while still enjoying your bird feeding hobby.

Do birdhouses attract rats?

The answer to this question is known to those who have already dealt with bird feeders or other feedingstuffs. But let’s say it for the rest of the enthusiasts who want to start feeding the birds in their gardens – yes, bird feeders attract rodents.

Rodents are always looking for food, so can we blame them for trying to steal some bird seeds? It is in their nature to be constantly in search of food, so it is safe to say that mice and rats will most likely eat anything they can get their hands on. With this in mind, we all know that rodents usually carry many diseases, including salmonella, which can be dangerous to both other people and the birds you’re trying to feed.

And while mice and rats are known to actively hunt for food that humans leave behind for birds, putting bird feeders there isn’t 100% guaranteed that the rodents will invade your yard. You may not have bird feeders and yet there is an unruly rat lurking somewhere in your yard – you can never be sure how many unwanted guests are hiding in your lawn. With that in mind, we have a few tricks up our sleeve to help you reduce long-tailed visitors, so read on.

See also: How to get rid of rats in the garden without poison

How to stop rats from eating birdseed

Now that we’ve all accepted the hard truth, we’re finally getting to the point – how to feed birds without attracting rats. Here are some steps you can take to keep rats and mice away from your bird feeders.

Install rodent-proof bird feeders

We’ll start with the safe and very easy to purchase option – rat proof bird feeders. That’s right, the quality of your bird feeder plays an important role in whether or not rodents will steal the birds’ food.

When choosing a bird feeder for your yard, make sure the bird feeder you buy can be installed out of the reach of rodents. If possible, opt for a hanging bird feeder. Choose a sturdy one that won’t easily be knocked over by the weight of the birds. Why is that important? When seeds fall from your bird feeder to the ground, it’s only natural for rats to find them and stay in the area looking for more. To make your bird feeder even better, you can invest in a bird feeder or install a tray.

Remove water sources

The next thing you can do to deter rodents from entering your yard is to remove water sources. Mice, for example, can go a month or even longer without drinking water, but this is not the case with rats. They need water to survive, so they may invade your garden in search of it.

It is difficult to remove all sources of water from your garden, especially when it comes to ponds or pools. However, you can at least empty bird baths at night and fix any leaks to deter the nasty rodents.

Rodent control service at the highest level! Book a professional rat extermination service for your property. The experts are experienced in treating and impregnating properties against mice, rats and even squirrels. Call us on Trustpilot

Store bird seed properly

Rats and mice are notorious for their scavenging abilities. So next, our advice is to be extra careful when storing your feathered friends’ seeds.

Galvanized metal containers with a secure lid might be what you are looking for. Rodents like to chew holes through various textures and materials, even wood, rubber and poor-quality concrete, and while it is not impossible for them to penetrate the metal containers, the task becomes more difficult. Keep the containers in a shed and do not place them in your home to avoid inviting rodents there.

Keep your garden and feeding areas clean

Birds can be picky eaters. They often scour the seeds to find the pieces they like best, brushing aside everything else. Needless to say, seeds on the ground are not a good idea when trying to avoid rodents. We recommend that you clean your garden and feeding areas regularly. Sweep up discarded seeds as often as possible, at least once a day (preferably before dark).

Add a baffle to your bird table

Rats on feeders are not a pretty sight. The nasty pests can easily climb trees and end up in your bird feeders. That means if you have a bird table, the rodents can get to the food. Therefore, it is best to add a baffle to your bird table.

Baffles not only prevent mice and rats, but also squirrels from getting close to the bird seed. It’s a cone-shaped piece of plastic or metal that you attach to the feeding rods. Baffles are designed to be slippery, meaning no animal will manage to climb on them.

Contact a pest controller

Many people decide to take matters into their own hands and use rat poison to solve the problem. Needless to say, this is very dangerous as you may end up hurting your pets. Pest situations, especially those related to rodents, require special attention. The surest way to deal with a rodent problem is to hire a pest control professional. The pest technician will conduct an inspection and, using the right methods, will successfully eliminate all rodents without endangering your family and pets.

What NOT to do

Search results on how to keep rats away from birdhouses can be full of unsafe or inhumane ideas. One such popular, albeit dangerous, concept is to poison the rats themselves. We’ve already given you a glimpse of why this is a terrible idea and how it has the potential to go way too wrong. And your pets aren’t the only ones at risk. They could also injure any wild or stray animal that ingests the poison directly or eats the carcass of a poisoned rat.

Another “advice” you can find is to place sticky traps. We strongly advise against using them as they are not humane in dealing with rodents. In addition, other animals are also at risk of becoming stuck and suffering a slow, agonizing death.

See also: Humane methods for dealing with common household pests

Are you dealing with a pest infestation? You don’t have to be alone in the fight against pests. Hire a professional pest expert! Call us on Trustpilot

snack

Bird feeders attract various animals including mice, rats and squirrels;

Store the bird seed in galvanized metal containers so rodents cannot chew a hole in it and get to the seeds.

Mice can survive a month without water, but rats cannot. Be sure to eliminate easily accessible water sources;

Don’t try to tackle the pest problem yourself. Call a professional to get rid of the rodents for you.

***

Do you currently have birdhouses in your garden? Share your way of feeding birds without attracting rats in the comments below.

Blackbirds are now the third most common wild bird species in the UK and providing them with the right food could encourage them to nest in your garden. If you are hoping for blackbird residents in your garden, there are a few things to consider.

So what do blackbirds eat?

How to feed blackbirds

Do not forget!

What do blackbirds eat?

Well, the truth is, blackbirds will eat most types of wild bird food, from suet to sunflower hearts. However, her absolute favorites are insects and fruits. Because blackbirds are soft-beaked birds, they are likely to damage their beaks if they eat hard seeds or seeds with hard shells. Our Premium Softbill Mix is ​​precisely tailored to this problem. Contains everything a blackbird (or any soft-billed bird, e.g. robin) needs to eat.

What to feed blackbirds:

Especially for blackbirds, we’ve put together our own wild bird feed mix that includes all of their favorite foods. Of course, you can feed them any of the straights listed above, but a mix is ​​best as it provides the birds with a balanced diet that includes all the food groups they need to survive.

How to feed blackbirds

If you only provide birdseed from hanging bird feeders in your garden, it is very unlikely that any of the food you provide will be enjoyed by blackbirds. This is because blackbirds are too large to use most hanging feeders and they lack the ability to hold on to feeders, a trait exhibited by many smaller birds. The best food for blackbirds is one that can be fed from a feeding table or directly from the ground. This type of food is readily available provided it could also lead to an influx of ground feeding birds like chaffinches and robins visiting your garden. Providing bird seed from the ground in an open area might also attract some unwanted visitors such as crows, this can be avoided by providing the food under bushes and shrubs. This favors blackbirds’ instinct to forage for food in the undergrowth, while crows are more interested in a simple meal.

Do not forget!

The content of the feed you provide is also important. If you feed a seed mix that is more suitable for use in feeders, blackbirds are unlikely to fall in love with your garden. The contents of feed mixes are generally not of interest to blackbirds, many of the harder seeds these mixes contain are not even a viable food source for blackbirds. As such, we would recommend something like our ultimate soil mix. Our Ultimate Ground Blend contains fruit, mealworms and tallow pellets and is specially formulated for ground feeding. It includes an assortment of treats that all ground-feeding soft-billed birds will love.

So if you’re hoping to have a resident blackbird family in your yard, there are a few things to keep in mind:

Assembly

It is best to attach your bird table to a metal post, making it impossible for cats to climb on and difficult for squirrels to climb on. However, it is much easier to attach the table to a wooden post and slide a piece of plastic drainpipe or similar over it to make it unclimbable.

Stick the post into the ground (leave about a foot of post in the ground) or stand free-standing with a cruciform base. The table must be 1.2 to 1.75 m above the floor. The best height depends on the level you’re watching from, the mobility of the cats in the neighborhood, and the size of the person in charge of stocking and cleaning the table.

Regardless of how the post is attached, the table must be solid. If it is a cruciform base, make the feet long enough to prevent the table from tipping over. If the wind is a problem, you can pin your feet or put stones on them. Use small metal brackets at the top of the post to secure the table, or small blocks of wood (or plastic blocks from hardware stores) that screw to the side of the post and the bottom of the table.

hanging

To hang a table, use eyelets or hooks at each corner and attach pieces of wire or a lightweight metal chain (avoid strings, which squirrels can chew through). To prevent the table from rotating, the chain must be hung from more than one point, so make loops of the chains at either end of the table and hang them from a horizontal branch (or your clothesline). To protect a tree from being cut by the chain, run the chain through a length of garden hose.

windowsills

Depending on the location, bird feeders can be attached to window sills with brackets, chains or angle brackets.

A ground feed bowl

A low bird table can be provided for birds that prefer to feed on the ground. This should be mounted no more than 10cm off the ground (to allow the grass to “breathe”) and moved slightly each time you lay out fodder. This will prevent feces from building up in any part of the yard as well as preventing damage to your lawn. Remember, beware of cats under shrubs.

When we had done some work in our garden, I temporarily took down the birdhouses. When I put them back in time for fall and winter, the birds didn’t come back. In a little over a week no birds came. What went wrong and why were no birds coming to my feeder?

Possible reasons for birds not returning to feeders or returning to previous feeders include:

sometimes it just takes time and patience.

the feeder must be in a suitable location (quiet & safe with natural cover nearby)

Poor quality seed or feed, or birds can find better, natural food sources instead.

pets or predators are nearby.

Your neighbor offers a better menu!

I have an idea why my feeders weren’t getting any attention. Here’s what I did to fix it.

Why aren’t the birds coming to my bird feeder anymore?

I mentioned at the beginning that we have some work done in our garden. A big deal that happened was the removal of a medium sized flowering tree from the center of the front yard. As you will read in my other post on choosing the best spot for a bird feeder, a very important thing to consider is the nearby natural cover for the birds. This means a tree, large bushes or the like. These provide birds with a place to hide when they feel unsafe.

Apparently I don’t have a tree in the garden now and my feeders are on a high pole in an open, exposed area. This is not ideal and I accept that this may reduce my chances of seeing my family of goldfinches again anytime soon. Luckily my neighbors all have trees or large shrubs that are not too far away and I hope these will suffice. I will update again with the results.

UPDATE: Since writing this post, I’ve decided to move my feeders to a different location. The result was worth it. Learn more here. I’m so happy!

Six reasons why there are no birds at your feeder

If you’ve ever had success with birds coming to your bird feeders but stopped for some reason. There are a few common reasons why this might have happened. Some things we simply cannot change, but others we may be able to influence.

1. Birds prefer natural food sources

The simple fact is that while we provide wild birds with all types of treats that we think they will enjoy, many prefer naturally occurring foods in their environment. This is nature’s way and something that has been happening for millions of years. It could simply be that due to a mild winter and the abundance of natural food elsewhere, your feeders have to wait until the birds really need them. It’s not your fault.

2. Predators

Birds will not want to share space with another animal that is likely to harm them. If you live in a community where cats are almost always present, this might not be a great place for bird feeders. It could be that a new cat has arrived in the area and is frequenting your yard.

If your home allows, consider moving feeders to an enclosed back garden rather than an open front yard. We’re lucky that the neighborhood cats don’t usually venture into our back garden, so we get quite a few birds there. However, my security camera shows cat activity in the front.

3. Family Pets

This may be related to the predators mentioned above; A family dog ​​snoozing in the sun, or even a pet rabbit near the feeding station, might just be enough to make the birds uncomfortable near your feeding station. We all love our pets and enjoy watching them play just as much as watching the birds at our feeders.

However, there may be more bird activity when the pet is indoors or in an area other than the feeder. If you’ve acquired a new pet, this could be one reason birds have gone.

4. Children & Noise

Households with children naturally become noisier and busier. Birds don’t like that. They like to be calm and secure when they eat. If you’ve added play equipment to the area where the bird feeders are located, the new sounds and activities can scare the birds away.

Are there new noises from the neighbor’s garden that could be the cause? Maybe new neighbors with noisy kids?

5. Other enticing feeders

When I walk down the cul-de-sac where I live, I see at least four other households with birdhouses. Some are simple and some are more elaborate. The thing is, these feeders may contain better seed than my feeders. Maybe my neighbors all use a different kind of bird seed together.

At the risk of starting a neighborhood bird feeding war, I need to find out what they are using to feed the birds. My bird feeders can be bird free because my enemies (I mean neighbors) have the upper hand.

How long does it take for birds to come to a new feeding site?

Another reason birds stop coming to your feeder is because you’ve added a new one to your collection. Sometimes the mere addition of a new bird feeder can show how fickle birds can be.

I recently read on a birding forum that someone put a new bird feeder in their yard, but even after a few weeks the birds were happily using the other nearby bird feeders in the same yard but ignoring the new bird feeder.

Be patient

The most important thing in all of this is to be patient and not get discouraged. Birds will often go to a new bird feeder within a day or two, but it is common for birds to go somewhere for up to several weeks before beginning to feed in a new location.

The general rule is between two and four weeks. That way they can find the feeding spot and watch for a while to find out what food is in it and if it’s a safe place to eat.

Birds may be put off or just plain uncomfortable with something of a different size and shape than what they are already used to. Again, don’t get discouraged and be patient because they will come, it just takes time.

How do birds find bird feeders?

If bird lovers and landscape designers could agree on one thing, it would be this: a bird bath adds so much to even the simplest of outdoor spaces. Also, a bird bath is great for attracting birds, especially in the summer season. But if you want your bird bath to be both functional and beautiful, you need to put it in the right place. In this article, we tell you exactly where to put a bath to attract birds to your yard.

1. Place your bird bath in a safe place

Most importantly, the safety of the visiting birds is paramount. To ensure birds are safe from predators, you must carefully consider where you place the birdbath.

Their job is to limit the contact of visiting birds with predators. Birds don’t have to worry about predators (including your Goldendoodle or the neighborhood cats) while they’re drinking or cleaning their feathers. To make them feel safe, make sure there’s a safe haven nearby. Bushes or trees nearby will do – but they shouldn’t be so close that a predator could hide in them!

Related: How to Pick the Best Bird Bath for Hummingbirds

2. Prioritize clean, fresh water for a birdbath in garden areas

Another thing to consider: how to get clean, safe water for your bird bath – sometimes every day! Since you probably won’t be running a backyard pipe to your birdbath, proximity to a hose (or to your kitchen) is essential. If you can’t place a bath close enough to a house, you can always purchase a hose extension to make your life easier.

You also need to find a way to keep the water clean. After all, you can’t always replace it. By making sure your bird bath isn’t under a tree or ever-blooming shrub, you’ll keep most of the debris out of the water basin. Still, you need to watch out for algae, bugs, and other concerns.

Since birds love (and rely on) bird baths for fresh, clean water, these two suggestions are really important.

3. Attract birds by making sure they can see your birdbath

Just like you and me, birds can’t use what they don’t know. If you want to welcome birds to your bird bath, make sure you place it in a prominent spot.

Choosing a bird-friendly site should be a compromise. You’ll balance safety and fresh water – the most important things, of course – with your own desire for birding. Is there a spot in your garden that ticks all the boxes? If yes, then go!

4. Consider the needs of your birdbath

Well, when it comes to choosing a location for your bird bath, the hardest part might be decided for you. A fancy bird bath (or drip fountain) needs to be plugged into a power source in order to function. (That’s because they offer running water, which birds love.)

Other bird baths and accessories are solar powered. These need lots of sunshine to run.

Of course, if you don’t want to deal with power factor, you don’t have to. There are many traditional bird baths to choose from such as our best selling two tier bird bath.

5. Keep bird baths away from birdhouses and bird feeders

While you might love living in a big, dense city, birds like wide open spaces. They actually prefer spacing between their bird baths, aviary, and birdhouses. If you already have an aviary and bird feeder in your yard, remember this rule of thumb: six to eight feet spacing is key…and some experts recommend up to 30 feet apart!

Related: How to place a bird house

6. Think about the climate

Your location—and average temperature and sun exposure—will also affect birdbath placement. In hotter, sunnier climates, a shady location may be better. (Too much sun can also cause evaporation.) Sun may be preferred in colder areas or during winter.

Remember, if you must set up your birdbath in the shade, do so in a way that doesn’t leave the birds vulnerable to predators…or that debris will fly into the bathing pool.

7. Watch out for windows

Finally, while your windows might be great for bird watching, they can pose a real risk to birds. Keep bird baths a reasonable distance (perhaps three feet or 36 inches) from your windows to protect your visiting birds.

These seven tips should help you attract more birds to your garden or yard. Remember, be mindful of predators, keep the water clean and most importantly make sure the birds are safe. (And don’t forget to tuck your birdhouse securely into the ground.)

But don’t forget to have some fun too! Enhance your pool’s basin by adding rocks, pebbles or pebbles. Not only does this look great, but it can also prevent the bathtub floor from becoming too slippery. Then add a fountain, give the birds a cute perch and take lots of photos.

You’ve placed a bird bath perfectly, now go and enjoy those splash sessions! And take a picture or two!

About happy gardens

Happy Gardens curates an online collection of unique, thoughtful garden decor and merchandise. Whether you’ve been searching all over the place for an adorable bird house, a unique wind chime, or a charming rain chain, Happy Gardens has what you’re looking for. Finally, every product we stock and sell has been selected to fill your outdoor space with charm and happiness. (Especially if you love birds.)

Our popular collections feature a remarkable variety of premium, popular products including rain gauges, painted birdhouses, funky wind chimes and cool garden ornaments and statues made from metal, stone and more. Plus, our new line of merchandise is bright, exciting and ideal for gifting. Check out our wine glasses, tote bags and mini planters for all the garden, bird and plant lovers in your life.

Want to know more about our newest and coolest products? Subscribe to our mailing list with your email address. Want to put some good vibes (and tons of tips and tricks) in your newsfeed? For lots of garden inspiration and your daily dose of green, follow us on Instagram and Facebook.

We are always here to help you

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if you need help choosing the perfect gift, redesigning your outdoor space or choosing the right birdbath, house or lodge.

Temporarily remove all food sources

Keep the area around your feeding table clean

Make your garden less rat friendly

Add a baffle to your bird table

Placement of the bird table

Use foods that rats don’t like

Bird feeders are much more flexible compared to bird feeders. You can use leftover household food and a variety of feeding materials to encourage birds to eat from your feeding table. If you’re not sure what to feed birds, check out our article on what to put on a bird table. The open nature of birdhouses often makes them more vulnerable to other unwanted visitors like squirrels and rats. We’re taking a look at a few steps you can take to prevent rats from getting onto your feeding table and to prevent rats from visiting your yard at all. Although as a bird lover you don’t want to stop feeding your feathered friends, this can be a great way to break the rat cycle in your yard. If you have a major rodent problem in your yard and want to stop the rats altogether, you can try removing all food sources for a few weeks. This keeps the rats from coming into your garden; However, once you feed the birds again, the rats may return. To prevent them from returning, once your yard is rat-free, we recommend introducing bird feeding slowly and, if possible, following our other recommendations listed in this article. Falling seeds and debris on the ground will attract rats if they are nearby, rats will find easy food sources like this and will continue to visit until the food source has been removed. Keep the area around your bird feeder clean and regularly remove dropped feed to keep unwanted pests away from your bird feeder. Placing your bird table on easy to clean slabs or on a patio area will make this job much easier and allow you to clean the area more regularly. Rats like to hide in dark corners of gardens and use holes and gaps in fences to move between gardens. Spaces under sheds are also a great place for rats to breed and hide during the day. Filling in these gaps and keeping your yard clean will help reduce the rats’ incursion into your yard and find places to hide and make a home. Try to figure out how rats invade your garden and block their way. Blocking holes in fences and under your shed will help with this process. If you find that rats or other animals climb onto your feed table to get food, you might consider adding a baffle. A baffle is a cone-shaped piece of plastic or metal that deters squirrels and rats from climbing the post. Not only do they create a physical block in the animal’s path, but they are also designed to be slippery so animals cannot climb over them and gain access to the feeding table. Placing your feeding table in a place where rats cannot climb and jump over to gain access to the food is important in stopping unwanted animals. Keep your bird table at least 10 feet away from any spot a squirrel or rat might jump from, including large tree branches, fences, and sheds. Birds do not have the same taste receptors as mammals such as rats and other rodents, so hot chili powder is therefore safe for birds and will not deter them from feeding from a bird table or bird feeder. Rats and other unwanted garden pests don’t like the taste of hot chilli powder, so they won’t be attracted to the food you leave on your feeding table for the birds. Catch Falling Seeds When Your Feeding Table Is On Grass It can be difficult to easily and completely remove all the fallen debris that attracts rats and other unwanted animals into your garden. Placing a bird feeder or bowl under your bird table allows you to catch fallen bird seed before it ends up in the grass.

Bird lovers usually ask themselves how to keep squirrels away from bird feeders. But another equally legitimate question is how to keep mice, rats and chipmunks away from bird feeders. Fortunately, the answer to how to stop squirrels is generally the answer to how to stop these other animals.

Use a squirrel baffle

A squirrel deflector is designed to prevent squirrels from climbing up a metal bird feeder, and it works for other critters too.

The trick to using a squirrel baffle is to make sure the top of the baffle is at least 5 feet off the ground when you hang it. It also needs to be 10 feet away from anything a squirrel might use as a launch pad (tree, roof, etc.).

I’ve seen bird perches in gardens that owners have made out of 4’x4′ wooden posts. I do not recommend these if you have a rodent problem. Wooden posts are much easier to climb than a smooth metal pole.

See also: Amaze the squirrels at your bird feeder

Use a covered bird feeder or shelter

Weather protection grilles come in different sizes and are plastic domes for bird feeders. They are designed to protect birdseed from rain and snow, but also effectively keep mice, rats and chipmunks away from your feeding stations. Ask your local wild bird shop owner about a weather shelter or squirrel dome and they will know what you need.

One of the best deterrents is a seed coat

The center of attraction for birdhouses, of course, is the seed. Mice, rats, squirrels and chipmunks will root through seeds that have fallen or been thrown aside by birds feeding at your feeder. A seed tray attached to the bottom of your feeder catches this seed.

Seed trays prevent seeds, nuts and fruits from ending up as waste on the ground. They also prevent dropped food from rotting and breeding bacteria.

Also see: 4 reasons to have a seed tray under your bird feeder

Avoid using platform trays to feed birds (if you have a rodent problem)

Birds like mourning doves, juncos and hawfinches are big fans of these bird feeders. Unfortunately also mice, rats, squirrels and chipmunks.

Platform feeders are open bowls that allow for the easiest access to the food placed within. Some of them are built to be hung, but many of them are designed to feed birds that prefer to feed at ground level. The ground ones come with legs designed to stabilize them on lawns and other surfaces.

Also see: How to keep chipmunks away from bird feeders

Do not fill feeders completely

The less access to bird feeders the better. Extra large birdhouses that hold several quarts of bird seed are not always the best choice. Not only is the seed vulnerable to the weather, but the longer it’s out, the more opportunity mice and their friends have to find it.

I prefer to fill my medium sized feeders about a third full. Depending on the number of guests who come for lunch and stay for dinner, the seed is usually eaten in two or three days.

Use covered metal or strong plastic containers to store seeds

Metal or strong plastic containers are best, as mice, rats, and the crowd they walk with will not be able to chew through them. Keep it outside, preferably in a shed, so you don’t invite rodents into your home.

There’s one thing you definitely don’t want to do

You don’t want to install a PVC pipe bird feeder pole, or any pole for that matter, and then smear petroleum jelly, grease, or oil on it. These substances get on the paws of the animals. They will try to lick it off and if you don’t kill them directly they will get extremely sick.

When deciding where to hang your bird feeder, keep in mind that the best spot may not always be in your line of sight. Birds like cover and shelter. Bird feeders are best hung in a location where your visiting birds will feel safe from predators.

Most importantly, avoid open and noisy areas and hang your bird feeders at or slightly above eye level. Don’t hang the feeders too close to places where squirrels can jump on them or too low to be within reach of a cat. Birds will move on to find a new bird feeder if they cannot eat in peace because they are constantly being attacked by predators.

If you have an area in your yard to place a shepherd’s hook, this would be ideal. Hooks designed specifically for birdhouses are taller and hang farther from poles, walls and branches. Feeding platforms can be suspended or placed on the ground. There will be more security for the feeders if they are hung, but some birds are ground feeders such as pigeons and sparrows.

If you already have an existing bird feeder and are looking to replace it or add another one, remember that birds are creatures of habit and may not take an immediate interest in the new bird feeder. Slowly drain the old feeder while you keep the new one filled for your birds to find. Once the birds have found the new feeder, take the old one down or slowly refill it if you keep it.

Finding safe paint for bird feeders or birdhouses is an important step in making sure the structure isn’t poisonous to your feathered friends. Whether you’re building a new bird house or painting an older one, before you begin, educate yourself on choosing safe paints, stains, and other products.

Paint the birdhouse before spring so it will be ready when breeding season is over. Apply two coats of paint to the outside of the bird house and allow the first to dry completely before proceeding. Never paint the inside of the aviary as it is not healthy for young chicks inside.

When buying paint, do not buy types that contain heavy metals such as zinc or lead. If you don’t know what type of paint is on an already painted birdhouse, you may want to peel it off before repainting. Look for latex-based exterior paints that are water soluble. Acrylic paints are chemical based and should be avoided for the safety of the birds.

According to Happy Gardens, brightly painted birdhouses may look cute, but they can draw the attention of predators like squirrels and larger birds. It’s better to stick with neutral colors that provide some camouflage for the house and its winged guests. Although bright colors like blue and red can attract birds, they can put them in a vulnerable position. Happy Gardens recommends using olive green, brown, white, gray or taupe instead.

Natural wood is the best material for birdhouses. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game explains that this is because plastic, metal, and other materials don’t provide the same type of insulation. It suggests 3/4 inch plywood, rough cut board or tree trimmings. Make sure the wood has never been treated with creosote as this is toxic to chicks and eggs. The nails should be electroplated to avoid rusting.

Some of the most rot-resistant woods include yellow and white pine, spruce, and cedar. Painting or staining isn’t necessary, but this will also weatherproof the birdhouse and help it last for more than one season. You can try a water-based stain that is appropriate for the type of wood the home is made of.

Taking the time to tend to the wildlife that finds its way into your yard is one of the best ways to keep your yard beautiful and full of life.

One way to do this is to create spaces for wildlife. Examples of other pet-friendly projects we have at DIY Doctor include bird feeders, ponds, compost piles, bug hotels, and flower beds.

These are just some of the ways you can help local wildlife thrive in your garden while having the added bonus of being aesthetically pleasing and/or beneficial to you and your garden.

For this project we will consider bird tables; how to build one, what type of birdhouse is best for your garden and different designs for your birdhouse.

There are many different styles to choose from, from the very simple to the very ornate, as well as different materials to choose from.

A simple bird table versus an elaborate bird table – image courtesy of Pinterest

bird table plans

Before you start thinking about the design of the birdhouse, you should first consider the following:

Size – How big or small you should make your bird table. Too small and you run the risk of fighting between the visiting birds, but too large can overwhelm your garden and invite predators, so you may prefer bird tables for small birds over large ones

– How big or small you should make your bird table. Too small and you run the risk of fighting between the visiting birds, but too large can overwhelm your garden and invite predators in, so you may prefer bird feeders for small birds rather than large ones. The most commonly used material is wood, as it is versatile, easy to work with and aesthetically pleasing. However, other materials such as metal, plastics and polycarbonate have become very popular in the last decade

– What to make your bird table out of. The most commonly used material is wood, as it is versatile, easy to work with and aesthetically pleasing. But other materials such as metal, plastics and polycarbonate have also become very popular over the last decade for preventing cats from coming to the table. The straighter and smoother the post, the more difficult it will be for these animals to climb onto the table. Alternatively you can hang the table by a chain from a branch or similar but be aware that squirrels may be able to climb down the chain wherever you decide to hang it

– The table stand not only serves to elevate the table off the floor, but also keeps squirrels and cats from getting to the table. The straighter and smoother the post, the more difficult it will be for these animals to climb onto the table. Alternatively, you could hang the table by a chain from a branch or similar, but be aware that wherever you have hung it on Clean Finish, squirrels may be able to climb down the chain – remember to make sure there aren’t any There are sharp edges that birds could injure themselves on, and that the material you end up using – be it wood or metal or something else – doesn’t contain splinters or rough parts that could snag birds

– Just remember to make sure there are no sharp edges that birds could hurt themselves on, and that the material you end up using – be it wood or metal or something else – doesn’t have any splinters or rough parts that get caught in the ground Catch Bird Layout – The default layout is a flat platform with edges and some sort of roof. This can vary and as mentioned above there are many designs to choose from. A simple layout can be just as effective, if not more so, than an extravagant one

After the above points have been considered and thought through, you can start thinking about the design and construction of your birdhouse.

Bird Table Ideas – Choose a design for your bird table

When it comes to what type of bird table to choose, there are a few key points to consider; the number of birds you want to attract, what type of birds you often find in your yard or in your area, what type of yard you have and what aesthetic you are aiming for and where you will be setting the table.

This is important so that the table not only suits you and your garden, but also the birds it caters to.

As mentioned above, the basic layout is a platform with a roof, and most designs are basically an amalgamation of these and other details. Some have walls or pillars to support the roof, others have no roof at all. It really depends on your own preferences.

Different bird feeder designs for small birds and hanging bird feeder integration – image courtesy of Pinterest

Some designs include additional feeding stations hanging below the platform to accommodate a wider range of species, and some even have additional platforms lower down for birds that prefer to feed closer to the ground.

Some designs include nesting boxes and while these can be cute we think it’s unwise to encourage birds to feed in someone else’s nesting area – it might get a little out of hand.

Bird baths are also a common addition to a bird table, which again can look attractive but will ultimately likely cause more chaos and possibly cross-contamination between the birds’ bathing water and the food source.

For best results in attracting garden birds and to ensure their feed does not become contaminated. You should choose or design a bird feeder that keeps food as dry as possible and make sure it’s easy to clean.

When shopping for a bird table there are many to choose from, from the simple to the elaborate.

You can buy a bird table at most hardware stores, as well as sites like Amazon and eBay, and if you have the money, there are retailers who sell beautiful custom made bird tables that are masterful and adorable in their own right.

Intricate and Intricate Bird Table Designs – Image courtesy of Pinterest

However, here at DIY Doctor, we encourage you to build your own bird table. It may seem daunting, but with a little patience and hard work, you can have your own beautiful handcrafted bird table to show off to all your friends and family.

Build a bird table

Below we show you two different simple designs for a bird table that even the most inexperienced DIYer could put together, along with a list of materials and tools to use.

For these designs, we will focus on wooden birdhouses as they are the easiest material to start with.

The most common woods used for bird feeders (and houses or crates) are cedar, pine, and walnut as they are easier to work with and do quite well in outdoor conditions.

Pine is cheaper than most other woods, which is why it’s so popular.

Other common woods include oak, mahogany, and cherry for their sturdiness and vibrant color, but these can be significantly more expensive.

Plywood is also often used, specifically for the platform base and roof as it is a cheaper alternative, but we would recommend using marine grade plywood to ensure some weather resistance.

Ultimately, the type of wood you use really depends on how much you want to spend on the bird table and what you want the finished look to be.

As a general rule, the wood used should be pressure treated to resist rot and decay and to prolong the life of the wood.

This treatment also helps protect the wood from termites and fungi and provides some protection from the elements.

The finished bird table can be left untreated as it would be safer for the birds that come to feed there. However, if you wish to seal the wood, we recommend using a natural, non-toxic wood preservative such as tung oil, which will help protect the wood and would be safe for wildlife.

Tung Oil made from Natural Oils and Safe for Wildlife – Sold here at the DIY Doctor Store

After you’ve chosen your wood and decided whether or not you want to treat it, the next step before actually building the table is deciding whether to stand it on a post or hang it. Both have pros and cons, so the decision is up to you.

A stand requires more wood and therefore more money, but a chain can rust or let squirrels get to the table.

A hanging table also needs a place to hang, such as. a branch or wall mount, and must contend with wind that could rotate or otherwise unbalance the table.

On the other hand, a post needs to be sturdy and stable so that it won’t fall over, and it needs to be difficult for pets and squirrels to climb on.

Hanging and Freestanding Bird Table – Image courtesy of Pinterest

Once all of the above decisions have been made, you are almost ready to start building.

The next step before assembly is to choose a design and cut your wood.

If you have a circular saw, jigsaw or table saw in your possession, you can easily do this at home.

When using such devices, remember safety precautions and use safety goggles and gloves. As always, remember the old crafting tip of the builders. measure twice, cut once.

Always check your measurements before cutting as this will save you a lot of trouble later.

We have projects on using a circular saw and also using a table saw as well as using a regular handsaw and also using a miter saw.

Don’t forget to check out our woodworking and carpentry prep project to make sure you’ve got all the bases covered.

You can also cut the wood with hand tools, but if for some reason you can’t cut your wood at home, most home improvement sheds and retailers offer a free, or sometimes for a small fee, wood cutting service.

Check beforehand which ones offer this service and remember to have all your measurements ready.

Building a bird table: Method 1

This first bird table design is simple and includes a platform, a roof, four pillars and two dowel rails for the birds to perch on. It is a substantial size, allowing for many birds to feed at once, or for shyer species to have space to feed.

Follow the steps below to build your own bird table just like this one

Measure and cut your wood

Cut your wood to size using the measurements below. This design uses a 25mm (1 inch) thick wood for a stable and sturdy table.

Remember that one roof panel overlaps the first, so make one panel 25mm longer on the short length to allow for this.

Cutting plan for our bird table design

Base: 350mm x 500mm

350mm x 500mm Roof 1: 250mm x 500mm

250mm x 500mm Roof 2: 275mm x 500mm (including 25mm overlap)

275mm x 500mm (including 25mm overlap) Edge (x2): 40mm x 500mm

40mm x 500mm Columns (x4): 25mm x 25mm x 200mm

25mm x 25mm x 200mm Dowels (x2): 12mm x 210mm

Use a miter saw or miter gauge to cut the correct angle for the pillars. This will ensure that the roof is flush against the pillars.

The slope of the miter cut points outwards from the table and there is a dowel between each pair to form a rail.

Measure 40mm up from the base of the column and drill a 13mm diameter hole in the column.

Don’t drill all the way through the post, halfway through should be enough.

Sand down any rough edges and splinters that may be left on the wood for a smooth finish.

Assemble the base

Lay the base on a flat surface and place the two edge panels on either side of the platform.

The edge plates should form a slight lip above the surface of the platform.

This is to prevent seed and feed from spilling over the edge and provide the birds with a perch while feeding.

To avoid splitting the wood, pre-drill for the screws first – learn how to pre-drill and countersink screws here.

Apply wood glue to each edge board and use four evenly spaced wood screws on each side to attach the edge boards to the base. Set aside and let dry.

Assemble the roof

Lay the smaller of the two roof panels on a flat surface and lay the other flush against it at right angles. Use a ruler to get the right angle.

Apply wood glue to the joint and use four more wood screws to hold it together. Allow the glue to dry completely before moving it.

For a clean finish, countersink the screws so they are flush with the wood (see link above for countersinking screws).

Attaching the columns and dowels to the base

Measure 125mm from the edge of the platform on the long side (i.e. the side without side panels).

Mark where the outside of your pillars will sit and drill a hole from under your platform to the top.

Apply wood glue to the base of the column and place on the platform with the miter facing outwards.

Drill a wood screw from below to attach the column to the base.

Before attaching the adjacent column, apply some wood glue to the hole previously drilled and insert the dowel.

Do the same for the other column and insert the dowel before screwing the second column. Do the same for the last two columns.

Fastening of the roof

When the wood glue has dried and all the pillars are in place, lay the roof on the pillars and position it so that the gable end is parallel to the edges of the platform.

The sides of the roof should stick out a little bit over the edge. Apply wood glue to the top of the pillars and then screw the roof firmly onto the pillars.

Assembling our bird house after cutting all the components

Build your bird table: Method 2

This second design is a bit more complex but still easy to do.

This bird table design includes a platform, a roof that serves as a lid and a clear acrylic feeder.

This way you can fill the trough with the birdseed of your choice and the trough will dispense it evenly on the table.

It’s a very clever design, not only for its simplicity when you disassemble it, but also for the way it allows for a constant flow of food without being overly messy.

Slightly more complex bird table design with feeding trough

Measure and cut your wood

As with the first draft, measure your wood and cut to size.

As in the plans above, this design uses 25mm thick wood which allows the table to support the weight of the acrylic and bird seed which can become quite heavy once the trough is full.

Again, remember to consider the thickness of the timber (25mm) in the overlap that occurs with the roof panels, as in the bird table plan above.

Cutting plan for bird table with feeding trough

Base: 254mm x 254mm

254mm x 254mm Roof 1: 140mm x 280mm

140mm x 280mm Roof 2: 165mm x 280mm (including 25mm overlap)

165mm x 280mm (including 25mm overlap) Edge (S) (x2): 40mm x 254mm

40mm x 254mm Edge (L) (x2): 40mm x 280mm

40mm x 280mm Walls (x2): 140mm x 210mm

140mm x 210mm Acrylic (x2): 3mm x 229mm x 120mm

The walls of the table are then cut into an elongated pentagon to form the traditional wide-to-narrow shape.

After you cut your wood, sand the edges to remove any rough pieces or splinters that may have been left on the wood.

Design the walls

The walls consist of two shapes; an inverted trapezoid and a right isosceles triangle, one forming the shape of the trough, the other the roof.

There are a few different ways to calculate how this shape should be drawn, but the easiest way we’ve found is this:

Locate and mark the half and quarter points on your wood for your walls (see diagrams below). Using a protractor, mark a 90° angle from your halfway point on the top of the board (lines a and b) to the adjacent edges of the board. Use a straight edge to draw the lines. This creates the right triangle that supports the roof. Using a straight edge, draw a line from the quarter point at the bottom of the board (lines c and d in the image below) to where the first two lines (a and b) meet the edge of the board. This will give you the inverted trapezoid shape and the whole shape should look like an elongated pentagon. Cut off the excess wood. To ensure the boards are identical, line them up neatly and secure with a clamp or double sided tape and use a circular saw, handsaw or jigsaw to cut both at the same time. To create the slot for the acrylic you can use either a router or a table saw. If using a table saw, lower the saw blade to 10mm (so it doesn’t cut all the way through) and set the fence 10mm from the edge of the saw blade. Most blades are thinner than the acrylic, so you may need to pass the board over the saw side by side twice to create a dado cut, and then carefully sand the edges of the cut. If using a router, use the guard and a straight edge to ensure the dado is straight

Cutting plan for cutting side panels for bird feeders

Assemble the base

Lay the base on a flat surface and place the edge panels against the baseboard.

As with the previous design, these edge panels create a slight lip on the platform to prevent bird seed from falling over the edge and to provide a perch for the birds.

There are four panels of two different lengths and they need to be placed on opposite ends so that the shorter lengths are between the longer lengths.

Drill holes for the screws, apply wood glue to the edges of the base, attach the shorter panels first, and secure the panels to the panel with three or four wood screws.

Then adjust the longer edges. You can use a corner brace to hold the corners together or use another wood screw to screw in from the longer length into the shorter ones. Set aside and let dry.

Assemble the roof

As with the previous design, the two roof sections overlap to form the roof, but instead of screwing the two boards together and screwing into the supports, this roof is hinged to form a lid, allowing you to lift one side and feed into the trough pour.

Since the roof panels overlap at the joint, you will need a hinge that is longer on one side to screw into both panels. Two 4″ (102mm) T-Hinges should be sufficient and able to support the weight of the wood.

Lay the boards side-by-side and place the T-hinges on top of them, evenly spaced.

The long side of the T-Hinge should be on the board that will form the lid, i.e. the board that will be lifted, which is the wider of the two, overlapping its counterpart.

Screw the hinges to the boards and test if they open easily. Adjust if necessary.

Attaching the walls to the base

The trough walls are placed on the inside of the base and attached to the shorter of the two edges.

Measure and mark the center of the base and the center of the walls and align the two making sure the dado slots are facing inwards.

Glue and screw the walls in place and fasten through the platform from below and through the outside edges to hold the walls securely in place.

Be careful to place the screws so they don’t accidentally hit each other. Two from the bottom and three from the side should work just fine. Do this for both walls.

To create the gap between the base and the acrylic to allow the food to flow onto the table, cut a piece of scrap wood the same length as the base of the walls (about 70mm) and about 20mm wide and stick it flush to the base and walls.

This gives the acrylic something to sit on so it doesn’t slide all the way down. Sand down if necessary.

Now you can slide the acrylic panels into place. If they’re a little tight, sand down the edges until they slide down smoothly.

Make sure the top of the acrylic sheet is flush with the top of the walls or just slightly below, otherwise the roof will not be flush with the walls.

There is no need to add glue to hold the acrylic in place as you may eventually want to take it out to clean or replace it.

Fastening of the roof

Once the platform, walls, and acrylic panels are all in place, place the roof on top of the walls and adjust so that there is an even overhang on either side.

Use two screws on either side to attach the roof to the walls. Do not use glue on this part as you may want to remove the roof to clean or replace the acrylic.

Assemble bird table with feeding trough

These two bird table plans will not only leave you feeling satisfied and fulfilled, but will provide you with countless hours of bird watching from the comfort of your own home.

It’s a great way to start woodworking and it’s very rewarding.

There are many great designs from rustic to fancy and many other helpful tutorials and videos.

Why not try building your own beehive using the methods detailed in our project, or even try building your own bat box if you enjoyed this project.