Blanching Zucchini For Fish? All Answers

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How to freeze zucchini

If you have an abundance of zucchini in your garden, don’t let them go to waste. Freeze it! Today I show you how to freeze zucchini so you can enjoy them all year round.

Zucchini is one of my favorite ingredients because the recipe variations are endless. You can bake it in bread, spiralize it into pasta, sauté it as a side dish, or stuff it. It’s incredibly versatile. Do you see why I’m such a fan?

Zucchini is a great low-carb, hydrating vegetable that’s perfect for light summer meals. But if you grow it in your garden, you know that sometimes you get more than you can eat. And of course you don’t want it to go to waste.

Then you should freeze it! Let me show you how easy it is.

How to freeze zucchini

First, think about how you might use the zucchini in the future. I cut the zucchini, which is perfect for soups, casseroles, sauces and smoothies. If you plan to make zucchini bread or any other baked item, consider grating rather than slicing (and steaming rather than blanching).

Do you want to see how I freeze zucchini? Watch the video below!

Here is the step-by-step freezing guide:

Thoroughly wash the outside of the zucchini to remove dirt and debris. Prepare and trim the zucchini by washing and slicing into 1/4 inch thick slices. Blanch the zucchini to deactivate the enzymes that keep them from discoloring and becoming mushy. Do this by placing the zucchini in a saucepan of boiling water for a minute. Side note, don’t add salt! Then, use a slotted spoon or slotted spoon to place the zucchini in an ice water bath. Make an ice water bath by filling a large bowl with water and ice and letting the zucchini sit in the bath for about 2 minutes. Drain the zucchini from the ice water bath and gently pat the zucchini with a paper towel to pat dry. Pre-freeze the zucchini by lining the slices on a baking sheet with a baking sheet. Place in the freezer for 1-2 hours or until frozen. This will ensure that you don’t end up with a large clump of frozen zucchini. Pack your zucchini in freezer bags and store them for up to a year! I like to use Stasher Bags, but you can use any freezer safe storage container.

Use frozen zucchini

Since zucchini is 95% water, it can become quite soft after freezing and thawing. A small puddle of water may surround it. Therefore, it is best used in soups, casseroles, sauces and smoothies.

In fact, it’s a great way to sneak more veggies into a smoothie (it practically goes undetected!). This is what I make most with it, and it’s a great alternative to bananas for a low-sugar smoothie.

I wouldn’t recommend it as a standalone side dish or in salads or stir-fries as it’s too watery.

More zucchini recipes to enjoy

You can’t go wrong with these delicious zucchini recipes!

Want to learn about another great veg to freeze? Cauliflower. You can follow a similar process to freeze cauliflower.

“Pleco” is the name commonly used to refer to a variety of catfish that have armor-like plates and sucker mouths. These freshwater catfish are known to be algae eaters, bottom feeders, and scavengers that will eat almost anything, making them a helpful addition to an aquarium.

Coming from Central and South America, there are countless species of plecos/catfish. The most popular pet species are the suckermouth catfish (Hypostomus plecostomus) and the bristlenose catfish (Ancistrus dolichopterus).

With proper care, Plecos can live up to 20 years and sometimes longer!

The aquarium

Plecos are sold quite small in pet stores, so most people are unaware that they grow to 1 to 2 feet in length. As your Pleco grows larger, be prepared to house it in a 50-100 gallon aquarium. An older, larger Pleco may need a tank size closer to 150-200 gallons. Although Plecos can be kept with a variety of fish, they are very territorial towards their own kind. As such, it’s best to play it safe and keep only one Pleco per tank.

Even with a large tank, it’s important not to overfill your Pleco. Fish should have enough space in the tank to have their own territories. This will help avoid negative interactions. Avoid harboring your Pleco with shallow fish as it can do damage with its maw.

Plecos can scratch an acrylic tank with their mouths, so your Pleco should be housed in a glass tank with reliable water parameters and proper filtration. Accustomed to living in flowing water, Plecos will not thrive in water that lacks circulation and current.

Finally, Plecos are agile jumpers. Be sure to purchase a secure fitting cap for your tank.

decoration/habitat

A habitat is an important aspect of pet care for any animal, and it’s no different with Plecos. An infertile tank will stress your fish and make them timid and bored. Plecos need hiding spots throughout the tank where they can hang out during the day because they are nocturnal. Hides can be created using all types of aquarium decorations such as caves, tunnels, dark pipes, wood and artificial plants.

Substrate, such as pebbles or gravel, is a must for plecos as they spend much of their time combing through sediment and debris in search of food. Wood should be included in your habitat for your Pleco to chew on. Many freshwater hobbyists say that wood helps balance the pH in the tank.

Choose hardy, fast-growing live plants, as plecos have been known to uproot or eat them. Bury the roots deep and safe in your substrate. Artificial plants are safer for your wallet.

Stable water quality, temperature and pH levels are crucial for the health of your fish. You will need to purchase a freshwater test kit and ensure your tank is at a stable temperature (72-82°F) and pH (6.5-7.5) before adding any fish.

Every day

Check the water temperature and the filter

Turn the light on in the morning and off every night

Feed your Pleco every 1-2 days

Weekly

Check the water quality and pH with a freshwater test kit

Feed your Pleco vegetables 1-2 times a week

Monthly

Depending on the size of your tank, you should change 15-20% of the water 1-2 times a month (the smaller the tank or less filtration, the more frequently you need to change water). Here is more detailed information on freshwater tank care and water changes.

Water Temperature: 72-82 degrees F

pH: 6.5 and 7.5

Plecos prefer semi-soft water (not too soft as this can cause a pH crash)

Plecos prefer highly oxygenated water with strong currents and filtration

Because Plecos are nocturnal, the best time to feed them is just before you turn off the lights at night. This is the best way to avoid other fish eating the Pleco’s food.

While plecos will eat detritus and algae, they still need a dietary supplement. Feed your Pleco Pleco-specific food every day or every other day. Feed your Pleco chunks of cucumber, zucchini, or lettuce (not an iceberg) once or twice a week.

Heating & Lighting

It is important to the health of your Pleco that you mimic natural sunrise and sunset. Turn your aquarium lights on every morning and off every night, or buy a light timer that will manage this for you.

While Plecos are unlikely to come out during the day, you can increase the chance of seeing them during the day by dimming the aquarium lights in the morning or evening, or by adding floating plants that will block some of the light.

The temperature in the aquarium should be maintained between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit at all times.

Shopping List

Signs of a healthy Pleco

Strong appetite

Clear eyes

Stays on or near the bottom of the tank or the side of the aquarium and decorations

cloudy eyes

fraying fins

color loss

difficulty breathing

spots on the body

Feeding during the day – more than occasionally

Common health issues are Cloudy Eye and Me. Improving water quality is often an appropriate solution for Cloudy Eye. For Ich, you must quarantine your Pleco immediately and use a medicated solution for about two to three weeks.

This overview is intended to be a simple guide to maintaining Pleco. For more information or advice on health issues, please consult a fish expert, your veterinarian, or additional resources online.

About the Pleco Feeder

The Pleco Feeder was born out of a need to feed my Plecos more easily. I got tired of tying a piece of zucchini to a rock and then wetting my arm and covering it in duckweed when I put it in the tank and again when I had to take it out. I started thinking there must be an easier way.

After several iterations and many design changes, the Pleco Feeder was born. Constructed of 316 stainless steel and food grade silicone rubber, it offers a lifetime of durability. It makes feeding your plecos and other aquarium fish a varied, healthy diet quick and easy. Just screw a piece of fresh shrimp, zucchini or any other vegetable and put it in your aquarium. A healthy fish is a happy fish.

Your Plecos and other fish will eat this new fresh food and will quickly find that they are getting a tasty treat when you place The Pleco Feeder in the aquarium. It is possible that your fish will not eat the food you gave them from The Pleco Feeder. This happens when the fish have not been exposed to the food you offer them.

I had a group of adult farlowella that I recently bought. They’re vegetarian so I offered them romaine lettuce, no luck. Tried zucchini three times, no interest. This was frustrating because they ate the catfish pellets I offered them. So I cut off a piece of zucchini and impregnated it with the catfish pellets they ate. It did! The farolowellas went to eat the pellets off the zucchini and had some zucchini with them. Now I can put the courgettes in the tank and the fish recognize them as tasty food.

Start feeding your fish a healthier diet today. With the Pleco Feeder you can feed nutritious food quickly and easily.

View Full Version : Zucchini – How long in the tank?

Spudbuds I put zucchini in my tank for the first time yesterday to give the otocinclus something else to eat. The other fish love it too.

My question is how long should I leave it in the tank? I assume that at some point it will become uncomfortable to look at. Are there any downsides to leaving it in too long other than making a mess when it falls apart?

Many Thanks,

– Invoice

Arkie, when I put in vegetables for my catfish, I put them in at night, and then the next night, when it’s not all eaten (but usually with a sailfin catfish and five bristleheads), I remove it. As you know, if you leave it in for too long, it will fall apart and float around in the tank, rotting and fouling the water. my plecos also love cucumber, pumpkin and watermelon.

P.S. most of my other fish eat it too, I’ve even seen my albino Oscar chase the plecos off the cucumber!!!!

2manyfish Yes about 24 hours is right but like Arkie it never lasts that long in my tanks!

nanaglen2001 I keep zucchini in my tank for a maximum of 12 hours, after which they get slimy and I’m worried about my water quality.

Cucumber can stay in the water for 24 hours.

Sergo I leave mine in for up to 48 hours after which it starts to fall apart. however, it rarely makes it the full 48 hours before completely gone. I keep mine frozen and thaw them before putting them in. It ends up being a bit softer for the fish when you freeze it.

Cucumbers, on the other hand, shouldn’t be left in the tank for long and shouldn’t freeze or they’ll fall apart quickly (found out the hard way). I don’t know how long exactly because my fish won’t eat it

Algenco my otos don’t touch it for 24 hours, after that it softens and they attack!

spudbuds yes, it took my otos a day before even approaching him. I don’t know if it wasn’t soft enough or if it was just something new for her. Now only one of them is around all the time, but he was the skinny one, so that’s what I wanted.

It’s been a few days so it sounds like it’s ready to come out. I put way too big a piece in it so I would have been shocked if they ate it all.

Thank you for the information.

– Invoice

Sergo, if you freeze it first, thaw it and then put it in, it will be much softer than freshly cut and your fish will be able to eat it faster. They can’t get a hold of it when it’s freshly cut and they lose interest as a result.

Zackisch Is it important to cook the zucchini?

2manyfish I’ve never had the problem of a fish not being able to eat the veg as I give it to plecos who have no problem with that.

It sounds like if you have otos you should soften it up a bit and freezing will do it. The added bonus is that the frozen food stays usable for quite a while. If you don’t want to freeze, you can always blanch the vegetables first (boiling water for a very short period of time like 30 seconds). But of course you have to do this every time. At least when freezing, you can pre-cut the veggies and just freeze the whole thing. Then simply place the piece of frozen vegetable in a small cup of aquarium water and let it thaw before giving to your fish!

digital3 Out with it before it gets “furry”! :hmm3grin2orange:

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Many aquarium enthusiasts add algae eaters like Plecos to their aquariums to control algae growth. Plecos or Plecostomus include several types of aquarium catfish species. Algae eaters are scavengers in the freshwater aquarium and actually need a more varied diet to survive.

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Algae eaters also need other foods. Credit: Pavliha/iStock/GettyImages

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While algae eaters primarily feed on algae and decaying plant matter, they require a plant-based dietary supplement to stay healthy. In addition to algae eater food such as spirulina flakes or algae waffles, offer your algae eaters fresh, cooked or blanched vegetables from time to time. Cut veggies into small pieces, and you can even mix veggies together to create a salad that catfish will love.

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Zucchini for scavengers in freshwater aquarium

Many algae eaters, particularly the oto catfish, enjoy the occasional slice of zucchini. Before adding the zucchini to the tank, briefly blanch them in hot water to soften the vegetables and remove any germs or dirt. Submerge the zucchini piece in the tank after it has completely cooled.

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Place it in the aquarium so that your algae eater can find it quickly. To give your fish the maximum amount of time to enjoy their algae eater supplement, leave the zucchini in the tank for at least a day, but no more than two days or they will rot.

Lettuce as algae eater food

Many species of fish, not just algae eaters, enjoy the addition of lettuce to their diet. Lettuce is a fairly inexpensive vegetable, and most grocery stores sell several varieties. However, keep in mind that some varieties, such as iceberg lettuce, contain fewer nutrients than romaine lettuce or green leaf lettuce.

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Briefly blanch the lettuce before inserting and secure with a vegetable clip. Remember that plecos are bottom eaters, so weigh the lettuce branch down with something so it can rest on the bottom of the tank where algae eaters can get to it.

Broccoli for aquarium catfish

Cooked broccoli is a favorite of many algae eaters, especially the common catfish. Prepare fresh broccoli by cooking it until tender but not mushy, then strain and let cool completely. Slice the stalks of broccoli and let them sink into the tank for your algae eaters to enjoy.

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You can use the tops of the broccoli if you like, but this can be messy because the tops of the broccoli break apart easily after cooking. Never feed or eat yellow broccoli florets as this vegetable is poisonous after flowering.

Green peas and beans for fish

Not only are green peas a great vegetable to add to your algae eater’s diet, they can also help regulate the digestion of your other fish. Goldfish in particular can benefit greatly from the fiber in green peas. Before serving peas to your fish, boil them in water and let them cool.

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If you use snow peas, you will need to split them up after cooking and add them to the tank. Similarly, green beans need to be cooked, cooled, and then divided before adding them to the tank. If you use snails as algae eaters, green beans are a good vegetable choice. Snails love green beans.

Feeding Green: A concept for all catfish

Author: Lee Finley

It should come as no surprise that catfish feeding strategies are as diverse as the species themselves. A recognized catfish expert explains why all catfish still benefit from some greens in their diet and offers tips on how to get them to eat it.

Catfish and aquarium feeding

Time flies. It seems only a short time ago that I sat at the same desk writing an article for the 50th anniversary issue of this magazine. Now the 60th anniversary has come. Ten years ago I gave an overview of 50 years of the magazine. Although a lot has happened to the magazine in the last 10 years, it felt best to take a different path this time. To that end, I present a combination of two of my favorite topics: catfish and their aquarium diet.

The feeding of aquarium catfish, or any fish for that matter, has changed immensely in many ways since this magazine first appeared in late 1952. Commercial fish food formulas have been greatly improved and both owner and pet have benefited. But what goes around comes around, and many hobbyists are rediscovering some of the good things about fish feeding from the 1950’s and later (more live food, custom blended homemade fish food, etc.). That’s not to say that many, if not most, of the – how shall I put it – more mature fish farmers have ever given up their “older” habits. They have carried on with these and adopted (and adapted) some of the newer aspects of their charges’ diets.

Plecos and other vegetarian catfish

Loricariids have been at the peak of their popularity for a number of years and it seems only to be peaking. For many years (decades actually) they were basically the cleaning crew and were apparently tolerated for their seaweed eating habits. Also appreciated was their detritus-eating character (which uses much of the mulm that can accumulate on the bottom of a tank that receives less than reasonable maintenance) for sustenance. But there was always a small group of aquarists who valued them more for who they were than what they did.

The times have changed; Loricariids are now one of the hottest groups of catfish and are valued equally by die-hard catfish fans and general aquarists alike. Do you think the zebra catfish (Hypancistrus zebra) and the ever-growing list of similarly beautiful catfish have anything to do with it?

A varied palate

First of all, it must be noted that not all loricariids are primarily vegetarian catfish. The H. zebra mentioned above has shown in the wild and in captivity to have a preference for meatier foods. Although algae and detritus are eaten in the wild, this species also feeds on bryozoans (mossy animals), non-shrimp crustaceans, and insect larvae (bloodworms).

Scobinancistrus spp. diet

Other plecos are also more carnivorous: Scobinancistrus spp. are, at least in the minimal literature available, apparently entirely carnivorous, although their main prey (mussels and possibly snails) would provide some green material that they included in the dietary profile of these species.

Loricaria spp. diet

Other plecos, such as some Loricaria spp. and some other genera also have a heavy diet, at least seasonally (or based on diet in the environment), on fleshy foods such as various insect larvae, mollusks, and sponges. This situation needs to be kept in mind and researched if you are considering adopting a new species from this large family of catfish.

Commercial Diets

Overall, loricariids adapt very well to commercial captive diets, and generally these should consist of foods with a higher proportion of plant matter. Such foods also provide animal material to round out the nutritional profile. Most commercial foods tend to use spirulina as their primary plant base. This is actually a cyanobacterium, but that’s another story. Despite this, it is a wonderfully healthy food source for both fish and humans. Although the name Spirulina is commonly used, the most commonly grown species belong to the Arthrospira genus. But the name Spirulina remains in common use, and likely will continue to be for some time. Chlorella algae (unicellular microalgae) are also being used more and more, which is a promising development.

Additionally, some formulas use different types of vegetables that you might find at your dinner table. At least a few of these foods are said to contain the following ingredients (in addition to spirulina): carrots, celery, beets, parsley, lettuce, and spinach. Wow! Sounds like my dinner. Of course, these foods contain many additional elements, including vitamins and minerals, to round out their nutritional profile. Many of these commercial foods come in a variety of formats – flakes, discs, sticks – so you can choose what suits the needs of your particular catfish.

algae

But when using the above items, don’t overlook using the real things. Algae come first. As mentioned above, algae is a staple food for many Loricariidae. Providing these catfish with live algae is a goal worth striving for; It gives the fish a more natural experience as they can graze the food like they normally would in the wild. But as anyone who has kept even a single bush-nosed catfish (Ancistrus spp.) can attest, these fish are very determined. Few natural algae growing in the tank are left behind.

The feeding platform method

The best way to fix this is to grow algae elsewhere and bring them into the tank with the target species. This can be done through the feeding platform method. They take a suitable platform (a rock, a piece of driftwood, a flower pot, etc.) and, in the absence of fish feeding on algae, let it develop a beautiful green growth. This platform can then be moved into a tank with your plecos and they will be treated to a lively green treat. Such platforms can be removed from other aquariums where algae may be growing. Such a tank could even be set up for this specific purpose, with numerous platforms that can be used in rotation. However, make sure there are no health issues with trapped fish that may be transported with them.

Algae growth outdoors

This can also be done outdoors (at least for the warmer seasons in more northerly latitudes). I use styrofoam fish boxes filled with multiple platforms to ensure they get full sun. Although algae will grow there easily, I usually inoculate such tanks with an initial dose of algae from a tank or tanks in the fish room. Such a setup of two or three boxes can provide a large amount of live algae for food. I will note that my wife, Aline, was less than amused at the use of our patio, but eventually warmed to it. If you want to be specific with your algae type (e.g. chlorella) you can purchase starter culture units, although these will end up having to compete with Mother Nature’s choice of greens.

vegetables

Feeding real vegetables, as mentioned above in some commercial feeds, is a tried and tested way to provide loricariids and many other catfish with a green diet. There are numerous types of vegetables that provide an excellent and valued source of food. This is an area where you can experiment to find your catfish’s taste.

zucchini

A good place to start is with zucchini (or other squash). These can be washed and then sliced ​​(longitudinally or transversely as you choose) and offered to the fish. Opinions differ as to whether such food should be served raw or lightly cooked (in boiling water for about a minute). I prefer the cooked method. Firstly, such products sink easily and do not need to be tied down. Second, research has shown that lightly cooking zucchini makes more nutrients available by initiating the breakdown of cell walls. Note: With zucchini, make sure that your catfish eats the skin – this is where most of the vitamin A is found. This sometimes takes a little practice, as the softer center is often eaten and the fish then moves on. If you leave the skins in the tank and hold back other foods a bit, they’ll take it. If using cross-cut rounds, also cut open the skin in one spot so that there isn’t a ring of skin left. These can be a problem and I’ve seen plecos get caught in them and die.

other vegetables

From zucchini, let your imagination run wild and try a variety of vegetables. The FDA publishes nutritional tables for vegetables, and these can be a good guide to help you choose a good mix. Among other things, I like canned (or frozen) green beans. I have most often used French cut species as a permanent food for baby loricariids. The French style is good in that it exposes large areas of the softer pulp that the young fish initially feed on.

Whatever approach you take with vegetables, and if you’re making your own light cooking, you can take the end product, freeze it on baking sheets, and then store it in airtight containers in the freezer. Then just take what you need and add it to the tank(s).

Meaty Supplements

As a final thought, it should be noted that even most algae eaters of grazing plecos regularly eat small amounts of meaty food. These can include insect larvae, small crustaceans, etc. So, in addition to commercially available foods, seaweed and vegetables in small amounts, regularly add foods like frozen or freeze-dried artemia, mosquito larvae, small krill, etc. for that extra flavor and nutritional value. You can offer it right next to the other foods or as a separate treat.

Other herbivorous cats

Three genera of the African catfish family Mochokidae (Atopochilus, Euchilichthys and Atopodontis – the latter has never been imported to my knowledge) are basically ecological equivalents of many Loricariidae and have similar diets. Even visually there is at least enough resemblance that they were sometimes sold as “African Plecos”, a name I clearly dislike, but that’s another story for another time.

predatory catfish

There are many catfish popular in aquariums that are generally considered to be a fish-eating group, but you can go beyond that in principle. This dietary classification is not necessarily correct, as other foods such as shrimp, crabs, molluscs, etc. may also be consumed depending on the environment and/or the season. Many of these predatory catfish are also known to eat a variety of fruits, again depending on seasonal availability. The South American red-tailed catfish (Phractocephalus hemioliopterus) is one such animal and its diet of such items is well documented. This work has also shown that they pass on the seeds of such fruits, which then germinate and grow under suitable conditions.

vegetable material

Even catfish that don’t specifically eat fruit often ingest plant matter in other ways. One possibility is that when prey are digested, the contents of their intestines then become food for the fish that ate them. At least some of the various prey fish for a variety of predatory fish are known to be vegetarians or detritus eaters. Detritus is broken down plant matter, generally with a good complement of micro and macro invertebrates. It has also been found that predatory fish may secondarily ingest plant material when hunting and capturing their prey. This is undoubtedly true, but in some cases the situation can involve more.

meat

A case in point for the latter situation is one of my favorite smaller (maximum size about 10 inches TL) predatory catfish, the Auchenipterid Ageneiosus magoi. Two dietary studies on this species indicate that it is primarily a carnivore, with fish, frogs (during the breeding season), shrimp and insect larvae making up the majority of its diet. However, these two studies showed that plant matter (plants and detritus) was present in equivalent values ​​of 1) approximately 1.4 percent by weight and 2) 8.6 percent by occurrence. These numbers do not, and indeed could not, reflect the additional percentage of plant matter contained in the gut contents of their prey.

In any case, one day I was walking around the fish room handing out small pieces of lightly cooked zucchini to a variety of tanks. As I walked past the Ageneiosus tank, which contained six individuals about 5 to 6 inches long, I said “What the heck” and threw a few pieces in. These were gobbled up as quickly as anything meatier (bloodworms, guppies) would have been. More has been added, more eaten – and I know the fish have not been deprived of any nutrients. The plant-based food then became a regular part of their diet in small amounts. Does this one example prove anything? I think it does, and it’s a point worth pondering and experimenting more with other catfish.

Feed your catfish

So for any predatory catfish you may be keeping, work on including some plant matter in their diet. When possible, direct feeding of vegetables or fruits is ideal, but if not, feed them a formula (at least partially) with a good seaweed/vegetable formula. When feeding live fish, use healthy fish and make sure you load them with a similar food before introducing them into the predator’s tank.

omnivore

Another group of predatory catfish to consider are the insectivore and mixed carnivore species. In fact, for aquarium feeding purposes, many of them might be better classified as omnivores. This basically means they eat plenty of meaty and plant-based foods. This includes many smaller and medium-sized catfish, which primarily feed on insect larvae and pupae for a living. Such a diet may also include terrestrial insects that unluckily fall into the water and other small meaty foods such as crustaceans, molluscs, etc.

looking for food

Many of these catfish can be considered speculators as they swim around ‘searching’ (by visual and tactile methods) for promising food and selectively ingest it. Such catfish include many smaller pimelodids, doradids, and species of Corydoras and Synodontis. This is often associated with the ingestion of some plant matter (higher plants and/or detritus), as with the larger catfish mentioned above. This can often make up a pretty good portion of the diet, at least seasonally.

diversity

And their prey are often life forms that earn their living from plant foods. Again, this is another good and necessary reason to make sure this group of catfish is adding some green foods to their diet. Many of these take small amounts of regular veggies, but lend themselves equally well to some of the ready meals available (flakes, slices, sticks) that have a decent veggie content. Remember that pleco food isn’t just for plecos! They make an excellent addition to the diet of any catfish that eat them – and that includes almost all of them.

These catfish also appreciate live foods as part of their diet and these can often be supplemented with a range of plant based foods. An excellent guide to coping with this dietary situation is the book Culturing Live Foods by Michael R. Hellweg (T.F.H. Publications, 2008). All aquarists should seriously consider having this book in their aquarium library.

More considerations

As a final note, there are a few issues that need to be passed on, such as an initially planned discussion of the increasing use of duckweed as an important fish food. But that’s for another time, and we’ll take it from there. Think green, feed green and eat green.

See the full article on TFH Digital http://www.tfhdigital.com/tfh/201209#pg63

Blanch the potatoes before slicing them. a cup of blanched almonds She was blanched and kept silent when the shopkeeper accused her of taking the money.

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Wash and slice the zucchini, then blanch in boiling water for a minute. — Mike Rose, Cleveland, April 6, 2022

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Simply blanch the skin, boil in sugar water and dry in a bed of sugar. – Tribune News Service, Cleveland, April 12, 2022

But some advertisers and agencies may sneer at the idea that the network that makes money from the sale of advertising acts as a verification of the measurement system behind it. — Brian Steinberg, Variety, March 24, 2022

The Hornets may blanch at having to throw in a first-round pick after a few young players resign, but that’s what the Rockets will demand. — Matt Young, Chron, February 9, 2022

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