Blue Eyed Whites Tree Frog? Best 177 Answer

The white tree frog is a green or blue-green frog native to Australia, Indonesia, and New Guinea. It’s a popular frog because of its petite size and facial expression, which includes sleepy-looking eyes and a smiling mouth. Its skin also has a waxy coating that allows it to tolerate drier conditions than other common tree frog species, making it a better match for domestic environments. A white tree frog is a good choice for a beginning frog owner.

Species Overview Common Name: White Tree Frog Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea Adult Size: 3 to 5 inches long Life Expectancy: Typically up to 16 years, although 21 years have been reported

White’s Tree Frog Behavior and Temperament

White tree frogs are nocturnal, meaning they are more active in the evening and night hours. These frogs are fairly sedentary and docile; They often become quite tame and tolerant of handling.

However, all amphibians have very absorbent skin that absorbs chemicals easily, so extreme care must be taken when handling them. Wash your hands thoroughly with warm water and rinse well with non-chlorinated water, preferably tank water; even the natural oils and salts found on human skin are harmful. Do not use lotions or even soaps before handling your pet as the residue they leave behind is also toxic to frogs.

Housing the White’s Tree Frog

In the wild, white tree frogs spend most of their time in trees, so they need an enclosure with plenty of climbing space. A large or tall 15 to 20 gallon aquarium is recommended for housing an adult frog. A hexagonal tank is ideal.

A tight-fitting lid is essential, as these frogs have sucking foot pads that allow them to easily climb the glass walls of an aquarium. You can keep more than one frog together in a single habitat, as long as they are of a similar size; Otherwise, your larger frogs might try to eat the smaller ones.

A sheet of paper a few inches wide wrapped around the outside of the tank bottom can be helpful if the frogs tend to rub their noses on the glass to try to migrate beyond the habitat; Frogs don’t understand transparent barriers as well as you would hope (they will try to move toward objects they can see), but they do understand black walls.

Provide plenty of branches, large pieces of cork bark, and leaves to climb on, and remember that these surfaces will need to be fairly sturdy to support the weight of these burly frogs. Use natural live plants that are vigorous and strong-stemmed. Make sure they are free of fertilizer or pesticide residues on the plant and in all potting soil. Live plants in the terrarium should be kept in small, moveable pots to make tank cleaning easier.

Covering the back of the tank with dark colored paper will help the frog find a secluded and dimly lit area to roost during the day. Placing a large piece of bark diagonally across the cage, a few inches from the back wall, will allow the frog to latch onto the back of the tank under the covering of bark to sleep. Alternatively, use a thick plant cover or an indoor area with many exits for the frog to hide and rest.

Spot clean your frog’s cage every day, wiping away any large pieces of debris from the plant leaves and bottom of the tank. Use non-chlorine water to change the water bowl daily.

heat

Place a warming light or heater outside of just one side of the cage to create a daytime gradient of 27 to 30 °C (80 to 86 °F), falling to 22 to 25 °C (72 to 78 °F). ). Use both hand held and tank thermometers to confirm that adequate temperatures are being maintained.

light

Lighting should be dim, and if light is needed at night, use only a nocturnal light bulb. Create a regular alternation of light and dark; 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness works well. These frogs are nocturnal, so there are no special lighting requirements. Exposure to UVB is not required, although some exposure will not harm your white’s tree frogs.

substrate

Even in the case of this tree frog, building a good substrate in the enclosure helps create and maintain an environment similar to its native warm and humid tropical habitat. Build the foundation of the tank bottom with coarse washed gravel covered with chemical free soil. Large pieces of bark can then be used for more foundation; Cover any exposed soil with peat moss, which will help retain the moisture these amphibians need.

Avoid small gravel or bark chips that frogs might inadvertently ingest. Some pet owners prefer a more bare-bones approach to temporary tanks, simply lining the tank with paper or paper towels for easier cleaning. However, with this minimal flooring, it is significantly more difficult to maintain the appropriate humidity.

humidity

Use a hygrometer in the tank to measure relative humidity; Because hygrometer readings can drift over time, calibrate them once a year. Maintain humidity for this frog’s enclosure at 60 to 70 percent by spraying it daily with dechlorinated or bottled (not distilled) water. A bowl of the same water should also be provided. To outgas dissolved gases and come to room temperature, allow all water used in the housing to sit in an open container at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours.

Do not use fresh tap water with frogs and other amphibians because of the presence of chlorine and chloramine in water purification. If a chlorinated water source must be used, treat it first with a dechlorination kit (available at pet stores). Alternatively, bottled water can be used, but never distilled water as it lacks the essential minerals that all animals need in their water.

food and water

Feed your white tree frogs primarily live crickets. Other live foods can include non-insecticide moths, beetles, cockroaches, grasshoppers, and earthworms. Adult white tree frogs can occasionally even take small mice. Place live insects in the cage or offer them with blunt- or flexible-tipped tweezers, but make sure the tweezers do not injure the frog’s mouth or tongue on impact.

The amount of food your frog needs will vary somewhat, but remember that white tree frogs are prone to obesity issues, so don’t overfeed. As a very general guide, feed large frogs (longer than three inches) a few large crickets every two to three days, depending on the frog’s activity level and body condition. Offer smaller frogs three-week-old crickets about every two to three days and feed the hatchlings daily.

The best way to judge how much to feed is by the frog’s body condition. Look for ridges just above the frog’s eardrum. If there are no visible ridges, the frog is likely underweight and should be fed a larger amount or more often. If the crests protrude and begin to sag or wrinkle, then the frog is obese: reduce feeding by no more than 50 percent.

All insects fed to amphibians must first be loaded with nutritious foods. It is also important to dust the prey with a calcium-vitamin supplement. Do this dusting only once a week for adult frogs, two or three times a week for medium-sized frogs, and daily for very young frogs.

Frogs like going into their water bowl to rehydrate and soak, so use a bowl big enough for the frog to sit comfortably in, but not too deep that there is a risk of drowning; Tree frogs are not strong swimmers.

Common health and behavioral problems

The most serious threat to the health of the white tree frog is a disease known as chytridiomycosis, which is caused by the chytrid fungus. This deadly disease is spreading rapidly in the wild and has caused sharp declines in the populations of most amphibians worldwide. This disease is characterized by lethargy and weight loss; Few treatments are available.

Choose your white’s tree frog

Chytrid fungus exposure is the main reason it’s important to only buy your white tree frog from reputable breeders who will certify that your pet was captive bred and disease free. As with many exotic pets, the captive bred white tree frogs are the more hardy animals when it comes to the captive environment. Frogs caught in the wild may not cope well with the stresses of captivity.

Wild-caught amphibians can also bring parasites or other infections into your habitat. Reptile shows and online breeders are a good place to start when looking for a new pet amphibian. However, avoid buying a frog that you have not seen in person. Ideally, you should be able to watch him eat to ensure he has a healthy appetite, which is a sign of good health.

Similar species to the white tree frog

If you are interested in pet frogs, check out:

Otherwise, check out other types of reptiles and amphibians that can be your pet!

Few frogs are as instantly recognizable as the chubby white tree frog (Ranoidea caerulea). Named after John White who first described the species

Few frogs are as instantly recognizable as the plump white tree frog (Ranoidea caerulea). Named after John White, who first described the species in 1790, White’s tree frogs are mostly green or blue-green, although their scientific name refers to blue – the first specimens are believed to have been damaged by preservatives on their return journey to England. They are also known as the chubby tree frogs, after their somewhat comical, perpetually confused appearance. In their homeland (Australia, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea) they are commonly referred to as green tree frogs.

White tree frogs are listed as species of least concern by the IUCN Red List. They are hardy, long-lived (more than a decade is common in the hobby, although many reports exist of frogs over 20 years old) and large – 4 to 5 inches is fairly typical for a large, mature female. Best of all, the vast majority of White’s tree frogs are captive bred in the hobby. There are still frogs routinely imported from Indonesia. So be careful when buying frogs and make sure you only purchase captive bred animals.

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Many people are initially attracted to white tree frogs as a frog they can handle. This is only partially correct. Whites will tolerate occasional handling, but this is best done only when it is necessary to move the frog to clean its enclosure. You certainly aren’t enjoying the experience, and there is some risk of hurting the frog. If you must hold your whites, don’t do so for long and wear damp vinyl or nitrile gloves to protect the frog’s sensitive skin.

Where can I buy a white tree frog?

So you’ve decided that a white tree frog is the right frog for you. Big! Do your research and make sure you can properly groom your potential frog friend for the next decade. If that’s not a problem, it’s time to find out where to find one, two, or three. . .

Most pet stores with a reptile department stock or can at least order White’s tree frogs. They’re a staple for pets, and even big specialty stores like Petco and Petsmart do their best to stock White’s. These frogs are hardy and tend to come out on top even in suboptimal conditions.

Reptile shows are another great option. The quality of animals available can vary widely, from freshly caught wild imports that have only been in the country for a few days, to healthy, captive-bred animals produced in a professional facility.

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White’s Treefrog care sheet

What is the best pet frog?

A growing option is online. There are many online forums, social media groups (like the Whites Tree Frog Lovers Facebook group) and websites that provide information, advice and resources for healthy captive bred white tree frogs. This is a great way to develop a relationship with a breeder, the best source of information on caring for and breeding the species, and finding the perfect frog for you. Responsible breeders are careful to offer only healthy, captive-bred animals and strive to ship the animals safely.

Regardless of where you are looking for a white tree frog, there are a few things to consider when making a purchasing decision:

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Is the frog captive bred? Wild-caught animals often have trouble adapting to life in captivity, carry parasites and other diseases that can be expensive to treat or shorten your pet’s lifespan, and are often already adults, meaning you don’t have the opportunity to protect your pet to watch frog grow up . Animals bred in captivity are well adapted to life in a terrarium, should be free of parasites and diseases and are usually younger.

How is the frog’s condition? A skinny frog has its backbone visible and its legs can appear very slender. Nose rubbing appears as a pink or red spot on the tip of the nose. This is very common in wild caught animals and can easily become infected. The eyes should be clear and the body should not show any pink or gray discoloration.

What does the frog eat? If the seller can’t quickly tell you what the frog is eating, how much, and how often, shop elsewhere. All white tree frogs for sale should eat at least 1/4 inch crickets.

How big/old is the frog? I would recommend avoiding buying adult white tree frogs as they are often wild caught from Indonesia. On the other hand, you don’t want to buy a frog that is too small. Sometimes white tree frogs are only offered out of the water for a week or two. These animals do not feel comfortable in a new environment. I recommend buying a white tree frog that is at least 1 inch long and that no longer shows the black mask over the eyes (a trait whites have when they first leave the water and are around 8-10 weeks old).

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Where did the frog come from? If you can’t get an answer, or if the answer is “from the wild,” continue. Many hobbyists produce white tree frogs. Larger breeders include Sandfire Dragon Ranch, The Frog Farm, and Josh’s Frogs.

If you got satisfactory answers, it sounds like you’ve found a source for your next pet! I highly recommend making sure you have a habitat set up and ready to go before bringing frogs home.

White’s Treefrog Morphs

Many white tree frogs are bred in captivity each year and as such several different morphs are available from specialist breeders. These morphs can be expressed together in the same animal – i.e. it is possible to produce snowflake honey blue-eyed whites. We expect more exciting morphs to become available in the future and are currently working on making some of our own!

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Blue Phase – Blue Phase Whites have a more blue-green base coloration than typical White’s Treefrogs. This is by far the most common morph.

Snowflake – Mottled with numerous white spots, snowflake whites generally show most of their spots on their sides.

Super Snowflake – Snowflakes with an exceptional amount of spots may be referred to as Super Snowflake White tree frogs. These animals typically have spots on the sides of their heads and noses, and on their backs.

Blue-Eyed – This morph is defined by pale blue eyes. In many animals, the green base color tends to be a little paler than usual.

Gold/Honey – Instead of a green base coloration, these frogs exhibit a dried straw or yellow coloration. Some consider Golden and Honey to be different morphs, with Golden being on the more yellow end of the spectrum.

White’s Treefrog enclosure

How you house your white tree frogs depends primarily on two factors – the age of the frog and how naturally you are willing to approach their housing. In my opinion all young whites should be housed in a simple, basic enclosure for easy observation and rapid growth. For subadults or adults, the question is a bit more complex – basic or bioactive?

For young white tree frogs (under 1.5 inches in length), keep it simple. These frogs still have a lot to grow, so if you’re new to the whites scene, make it easy on yourself. At Josh’s Frogs we breed young whites in 10 gallon glass aquariums with a screen that is half covered with glass. The substrate consists of a damp, triple-layered paper towel that is changed three times a week. A simple water dish (in the form of an 8-ounce deli mug for us, but any easy-to-clean water dish will work), a few easy-to-clean faux plants, and an artificial pliable vine make up the cage’s hardscape.

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For lighting, we provide a 5% UVB source for all White’s Tree Frogs. We do not provide a heat source for young frogs, but maintain them at an ambient temperature of 23.3-25.6 °C (74-78 °F) during the day and 20.00-22.2 °C (68-72 °F) during the day night. Humidity is maintained at 50 percent between sprays, with peaks up to about 70 percent right after spraying (usually two to three times a day). Accurately measuring temperature and humidity is crucial. This works best with a digital thermometer and hygrometer.

For older frogs, you can opt for an easy-to-clean, purpose-built setup, or recreate their own little forest in a glass box. Personally, I think bioactive is the way to go, but understand that a more spartan enclosure may suit some keepers better. In any case, you’ll want to make sure you give your whites enough space – large frogs seriously need space, even if they seem content to play the role of couch potato most of the time.

I would recommend at least a 20 gallon tall aquarium or 18 x 18 x 18 terrarium for a single white tree frog and add about 10 gallons for each additional animal. Glass housings provide an easy-to-clean surface that allows observation. A solid, secured screen top is a must. Depending on the humidity, you may need to cover part of the top with glass or plastic.

Adult white tree frogs can handle a little drier than young frogs, but don’t let them fall below 40 percent, and spikes of up to 60-70 percent after misting are fine and best monitored with a digital thermometer and hygrometer. We prefer a low wattage bulb if your temperatures don’t reach at least 23.9°C (75°F) during the day. A night lamp is necessary when temperatures drop below 18.3°C. A 5% UVB lamp running 12 hours a day will help with D3 production and maintain your frog’s circadian rhythm. Every facility requires a large, easy-to-clean water bowl that is refilled daily.

In a purposeful setup, avoid loose substrates whenever possible. Some holders opt for damp paper towels, but we find this gets gross quickly and needs to be changed several times a week. At Josh’s Frogs, we prefer frog foam, a pet-safe foam that can easily last a week between cleanings. When it’s time to clean the frog foam, simply remove it from the tank, wash and squeeze under running water to remove any residue, soak in ReptiSan sanitizer, then rinse well with it dechlorinated water.

Cage decorations can consist of strong, broad-leaved artificial plants, pliable vines, and other easy-to-clean (typically artificial) climbing and hiding surfaces. If done carefully, the result can be an aesthetically pleasing, albeit artificial, enclosure in which white tree frogs will thrive.

Bioactive enclosures for amphibians

Keeping white tree frogs in a bioactive or naturalistic vivarium takes more effort, but is worth the effort. We recommend Biobedding Tropical, a unique substrate that’s great for plant growth, maintains microfauna (tiny bugs that help keep things clean) and is already seeded with beneficial fungi. Add three to four inches of this substrate to your enclosure, then cover with leaf litter. It’s important to cover the top of the substrate as you don’t want your frogs to accidentally pick up substrate while eating.

Carefully place some pieces of wood (cork bark, manzanita, Malaysian driftwood, and moapani are all good choices) so they provide some climbing structure and won’t shift under the weight of a large leaping frog. Add springtails and isopods—temperate springs and dwarf tropical white isopods are great—to the substrate, then add some plants (see the Perfect Plants sidebar for help in choosing the right plants). Mist heavily for the first week or two to allow plants to grow and microfauna to establish themselves. I recommend letting the tank grow for a month or two before adding frogs so you can be sure the environment has stabilized. With a proper setup, you’ll be trimming plants and adding leaf litter every few months and changing some of the substrate every year or two.

Perfect Plants

White tree frogs are large and heavy – movement alone affects their environment. Hence, you should make sure you pick some hardy plants to put up with those fat frogs! Below are some great green picks. Take it or browse it:

Pothos – everyone’s favorite houseplant is also an amazing tree frog plant! It grows fast, climbs over anything, doesn’t care what light you put it under, and looks great doing it.

Philodendron – this group technically includes Pothos, but is broad enough to be mentioned twice. Broad leaves, fast growth and hardy enough to tolerate frogs that will climb anywhere.

Dieffenbachia – commonly known as Dumb Cane, this plant offers vigorous growth and large leaves. Combine that with the fact that it comes in a ton of different colors and patterns and it’s a sure win. It’s poisonous when consumed, but luckily for us (and the plants), whites are only interested in eating bugs.

Ficus – another common houseplant that has a lot going for it. Ficus often sheds leaves when brought to a new environment, but then quickly regrows. It has smaller leaves and a woodier stem, but looks great when grown in.

Bromeliads – native to Central and South America, the white tree frog would never encounter these plants in the wild. Aside from that, they look really unique and come in some crazy patterns and colors. Spineless strains fit right into a White’s Tree Frog habitat.

Feed the white tree frog

White tree frogs like to eat. It’s perfectly normal for a newly acquired frog to take a few days to acclimate, but after that (in the right environment) they never seem to stop eating. They eat a lot, and they have to – these frogs can grow very quickly! We recommend feeding young frogs every day or at least every other day. For frogs over 1.25 inches, feeding 2 to 3 times a week is fine. White tree frogs are nocturnal and prefer to be fed just before or after “lights out” at night, but are often voracious enough to wake up at any time to eat.

Variety may be the spice of life, but there are a few commonly available feeder insects that should make up the bulk of your white’s tree frog menu – crickets and roaches. House crickets (either banded or European house crickets are fine, but we prefer the quieter banded house crickets at Josh’s Frogs) are available at almost any pet store. Provide four to six appropriately sized crickets (the length of the cricket should be about the same distance between the frog’s eyes in young frogs and slightly larger in larger frogs) at each feeding time, dusted with an appropriate vitamin and mineral supplement. We dust with Repashy Calcium Plus once a week and then alternate between RepCal Calcium with D3 and RepCal Herptivite for the other feedings.

Dubia roaches are another great staple. Unlike most roaches, dubia roaches are easy to contain, have virtually no odor, and are quick to breed. Young whites often ignore dubia roaches, but older frogs absolutely love them, especially when offered via a food bowl or tongs.

Nine to Dine

What does a white tree frog eat? A better question might be “What are they not going to eat?”. These frogs have voracious appetites and large mouths and are not afraid to use them. Variety is the spice of life and fortunately many feeders are commonly available for your whites to gorge on. Remember to dust feeders with a quality vitamin/mineral supplement. White tree frogs tend to be obese in captivity, so feed sparingly!

Crickets – the main predator of the pet trade, and with good reason. Easy to hold, strong and available in sizes to fit newly morphed frogs through to adult frogs.

Dubia Roaches – recently popular, less smelly alternative to crickets. Nymphs don’t really move much and tend to be ignored. Adult whites will readily take on ¾-inch or larger dubia, especially when pincer-fed.

Black Soldier Fly and Larvae – Larvae are very high in calcium and many tree frogs will accept them from a bowl or if offered with a pair of tongs. The larvae eventually pupate and turn into scary-looking (but harmless) flies loved by young and teenage whites.

Mealworms and Superworms – not great staples, but nothing wrong with offering a few as an occasional treat. Never feed more than one or two at a time.

Nightcrawlers – Nightcrawlers can be hacked to size depending on the frog that will participate. These worms are very nutritious and easy to store in the fridge.

Waxworms – High in fat, waxworms are a great way to stress an animal or encourage a picky eater to eat. If they are allowed to pupate, young and young frogs like to hunt the moths.

Hornworms – Hornworms come in all sizes, but only offer them to whites who are at least half-grown. Offer by pliers.

Silkworms – similar to hornworms, but slightly smaller. Great for offering tongs to larger frogs.

Butterworms – A great occasional treat to offer on a pair of tongs, but can be difficult to come by in some parts of the year.

Breeding white tree frogs

So you’ve decided that having one or more white tree frogs is great, and you want more – maybe several thousand more! Maybe it’s time to start breeding your frogs, but first there are a few things to consider:

What are you doing with all the babies? A successful clutch of tree frogs can consist of more than a thousand frogs. Do you have any way of making sure they all find proper homes? White tree frogs are in high demand, but without connections it can be difficult to find so many buyers.

Can you afford to take care of so many frogs? Breeding frogs and raising the subsequent offspring can be a costly process, both in terms of time and money. These frogs need to eat, so expect to buy several thousand crickets a week in addition to the supplies you need. You will spend hours a week cleaning and feeding your army of babies. You will need to care for the babies for several weeks – at Josh’s Frogs we usually raise them for 8-10 weeks before we put them up for sale.

do you have the space We house approximately 20 white babies per 10 gallon aquarium. A clutch can result in taking 50 + 10 gallons just to accommodate them – that’s a lot of room!

Assuming you figured out the why, let’s talk about the how.

Breeding white tree frogs is not a very complicated process, but it is not the easiest thing in the world either. Basically, you put several animals of each sex together for about a week and you end up with thousands of small, black eggs piling up at the water’s surface. In the past, getting whites to breed was a frustrating exercise in futility for us. Now we’re about 50/50. Here’s what you can do to increase your chances of success:

Bike your animals. Leave your adult frogs in cooler temperatures coupled with less food and less misting for a few months, then increase the temperature and spray and feed them for about a month before placing them in the rain chamber.

Set them up for success. White likes to breed in water that is several inches deep and likes to have a bit of space. We use 40B aquariums as rain chambers – they are equipped with a pump and spray bar to “rain” for several hours overnight and maintain a water level of three to four inches at the bottom. Several cork boxes and panels offer the frogs enough space to stay out of the water.

The more the better. In the wild, these frogs gather in huge groups when breeding. If you have two or three adults, success is unlikely. Aim for at least eight, but even more is beneficial. It is better to have more males than females.

give them time Chances are, breeding won’t happen right away. Give them a week or so to do the deed.

White’s Treefrog Egg and Tadpole Care

Now that you have a lot of white eggs, it’s time to take care of them and prepare for incoming tadpoles. Use a turkey broom daily to remove obviously bad eggs – these generally look discolored, furry, or are just falling apart. Change half the water every day. Soon you will see the eggs begin to change shape and develop into tadpoles which hatch fairly quickly (24-48 hours!). The tadpoles initially fall to the floor of the enclosure and don’t move much. Don’t do anything to them until they pick up their yolk and start moving. Then it’s time to thin them out and feed them.

Once the tadpoles are swimming freely, place them in a cycling tank that ideally provides ¼ to ½ gallon volume per tadpole. The more volume you have per tadpole, the easier it will be to maintain water quality. We use sponge filters for filtration and change half of the water every other day. We keep our tadpoles fairly dense—about 200 tadpoles for every 30 gallons of water. Use an aquarium heater to keep the water at 76-80°F (24.4-26.7°C). Higher temperatures will cause the tadpoles to exit the water faster, but they are smaller than tadpoles raised at lower temperatures.

The tadpoles eat a ton and should be fed three to five times a day. We alternate between Josh’s Frogs Tree Frog and Toad Tadpole food, Artemia flakes and frozen bloodworms. Make sure you keep up with the water changes – lots of food means lots of poo!

Tadpoles begin to develop legs and emerge from the water after about four weeks, and continue to emerge from the water for about a month after that. If you find them sticking to the sides of the tadpole container, remove them into a small container with damp paper towels on the bottom and a shallow dish of water – half a Petri dish works well. Put the freshly minted frog in the petri dish and finally let it come out of the water by itself. After it absorbs its tail, remove it to 10 gallons and feed it daily.

Conclusion

White’s tree frogs are one of the most popular pet tree frogs on the market today, and with good reason. Their chubby, somewhat oddball appearance, easy-going nature, tolerance for occasional handling, and wide availability make them economical and easily obtainable pets. As more people work with white tree frogs, more and more different color and pattern morphs are sure to become available. Without a doubt, these frogs are a great introduction to the world of amphibian keeping.

Zach Brinks is a lifelong herpetoculturist and has worked with reptiles and amphibians for over 30 years. Starting with a looper snake, his hobby grew to become his profession – now he oversees all the live animals, insects and plants at Josh’s Frogs, which produces thousands of animals each year for zoos, public aquariums and pet owners around the world. He also created and organized Josh’s Frog’s Annual Amphibian Conservation Grants, which currently support amphibian conservation in five different countries. He has a BS in Biology from Michigan State University and maintains a small collection of rare amphibians at home.

The white tree frog (Ranoidea caerulea) is also known as the “Dumpy Tree Frog” or “Australian Green Tree Frog”. These frogs are 3-5 inch long, nocturnal tree amphibians native to Australia and New Guinea. They generally prefer moist forests as their habitat.

White tree frogs have smooth skin, squat bodies, large round toes, and horizontal pupils. They are gray-green or blue-green in color with pale bellies. However, their most distinctive feature is the drooping crest of fat above/behind each eye.

White tree frogs are popular pets because of their size and hardiness. With good care, they have a lifespan of up to 20+ years.

Minimum terrarium size for white tree frogs

The absolute minimum terrarium size for a White Tree Frog is 18″L x 18″W x 24″H. Of course, bigger is always better when you can! Providing more space allows for a more varied landscape and more room for the frogs to roam Exploring and moving offer.

Cohabitation (keeping several white tree frogs in one enclosure) is common practice, as these frogs seem to get along well in groups. They don’t need to live together, however, and they do well when kept alone.

Do white tree frogs need UVB?

You seem to be able to survive without them, but we still recommend providing adequate UVB lighting as part of the setup. UVB lighting contributes to a clear day-night cycle, provides all the vitamin D your pet needs, boosts the immune system, facilitates digestion, and has other benefits.

The best UVB lamps for white tree frogs are:

ZooMed T8 Reptisun 5.0

Arcadia ShadeDweller

For best results, house the UVB lamps in a reflective holder that is 50-100% of the length of the housing. Position the lamp over the mesh lid on the same side of the terrarium as the heat lamp and place the sun branch no closer than 6 inches below the lamp (UVB intensity will vary depending on distance from bulb).

UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window does not count as ‘free UVB’ – in fact it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect. Don’t forget to replace your lightbulb every 12 months!

The light should be on 12 hours a day.

Best temperature for white tree frogs

Like other amphibians, white tree frogs are cold-blooded, meaning they rely on outside temperatures to regulate their own body temperature and metabolism. Although amphibians aren’t generally as dependent on temperature gradients as reptiles, it’s still important to ensure your frog can regulate temperature as needed.

White tree frogs should enjoy a sun temperature of around 82-84°F, an average ambient temperature of 74-76°F, and night time temperatures as low as 65°F. Air temperatures should be measured with at least two digital stick thermometers.

Give your frog warmth with a low-wattage white heat lamp placed over a basking branch or large artificial leaf. Do not use ceramic heaters, deep heat projectors, or colored light bulbs as they are not as effective.

Best humidity for white tree frogs

As amphibians, white tree frogs cannot live without direct access to water. However, this species is more resilient to dehydration than most other frogs. Average humidity can be as high as 50%, but daily peaks of up to around 70% are recommended. Humidity should be measured with a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed in the center of the terrarium.

Increase the humidity by spraying your frog’s enclosure with a spray bottle once a day. Spray first thing in the morning and then again in the evening, preferably when the lights are off.

Amphibians are sensitive to chemicals in their environment and even the type of water you use to nebulize and drink. Use dechlorinated tap water or spring water for nebulizing and drinking, not distilled or reverse osmosis.

Best substrate for white tree frogs

Providing a thick layer of natural substrate (“bedding”) will help maintain proper humidity levels and make your enclosure more attractive! We recommend the following substrates for white tree frogs:

Remove feces and urine daily along with contaminated substrate. The substrate should be completely replaced every month if you are not running a bioactive setup.

How to decorate a white tree frog’s terrarium

An empty terrarium makes the frog bored and reduces its quality of life. Keep your pet entertained and engaged with their surroundings with the strategic use of decorative items that encourage them to engage in natural behaviors!

Here are some decorating ideas to get you started:

Make sure your frog has covered areas it can retreat to if it wants privacy.

What to feed a white tree frog

White tree frogs are primarily insectivorous, meaning they must eat live insect prey to get proper nutrition. Young frogs should be fed daily, but adults should be fed every 2-3 days to prevent obesity. Offer as many insects in one feeding as the frogs will scavenge in about 15 minutes.

Food options for white tree frogs:

Black soldier fly larvae and flies

grilling

Discoid cockroaches

Dubia cockroaches

worms

mealworms

flour beetle

hornworms

silkworms

superworms

additions

You need to have calcium and multivitamin supplements on hand to prevent your frog from developing nutrient deficiencies and help him live a healthier life. We recommend Repashy Calcium Plus LoD, which is lightly dusted onto the prey before each feeding.

water

Of course, don’t forget a small, shallow bowl of water for your frog to drink from and dip into! Change the water daily and scrub the bowl with an amphibious-safe sanitizer weekly or whenever it gets dirty.

How to take care of your white tree frog

Amphibians don’t generally appreciate petting and handling like dogs and cats, but as far as amphibians go, White’s tree frogs can be quite manageable. However, everyone is different and while some tolerate the handling well, others can be very stressed by it. Get to know your special frog and treat them accordingly.

To handle your frog, wear a pair of nitrile gloves and grip them gently but firmly. The last thing you want is for them to jump out of your hands! And of course you should wash your hands after working with your frog or its enclosure.

If you want to interact with your pet without touching them, try offering food through a soft-tipped feeding tong.

*This care sheet only contains very basic information. While it’s a good introduction, please use good quality sources to further your research. The more you know, the better you can take care of your pet!

By Vanessa Voltolina

You might be considering an amphibian like a frog or toad as your next pet. But before you bring your new pet home, it’s important to do some research. “Each species of frog requires different care, and buyers need to do their homework before [acquiring] one,” said Cinthia Fabretti, DVM, of Animalis Veterinary.

Researching your frog of choice before bringing it home will help you understand its specific needs, where to buy it, what it will eat, and what its ideal habitat will be like. Learn more about caring for your pet frog here.

Are frogs a good first pet?

“Any animal can make a good first pet for a child as long as they have parental support, supervision, and most importantly, education about the animal,” said Erica Mede, president and founder of Friends of Scales Reptile Rescue. Frogs are, for the most part, pets and require a high standard of care – which includes diet, housing, handling techniques, hygiene, health maintenance and disease prevention – to meet their needs and keep them healthy, she added.

Kristin Claricoates, DVM at Chicago Exotics Animal Hospital agrees, adding that reasonable expectations are also crucial. “Frogs are pets that should be appreciated from afar and should not be cuddled, petted or handled frequently,” she said.

When handling frogs, you should use dampened latex or vinyl gloves for the safety of your frog. Anything on your hands can irritate a frog’s skin (from sunscreen to soaps and lotions), and some frog species shed toxins from their skin. This is of particular concern when children are involved, as they may not wash their hands as thoroughly after contact with their pet.

Depending on your child’s age and temperament, a “look but don’t touch” approach may not be realistic, and if it is, a frog may not be the right pet for your family right now, Claricoates said.

Where to buy a pet frog

Experts suggest obtaining a pet frog from local rescue organizations if possible. “I recommend rescuing from places like a local herpetological society or a reputable reptile rescue,” Mede said. Fabretti and Claricoates are also committed to animal rescues. Frogs are also available from species-specific breeders and pet stores. Asking friends who have pet frogs or an exotic animal veterinarian in the area can also help you figure out the best options for adoption or where to buy your frog, she added.

What Kind of Frog Should You Get?

It all depends on your life situation, your expectations and the time you can devote to your frog friend. However, there are some suitable pet options, and it’s important to know the difference between a toad and a frog when beginning your research. Frogs and toads are both anuric amphibians, with toads often being identified by their dry, warty skin and short legs, and frogs by their smooth skin, Claricoates said. Their habitats also vary: most frogs prefer to be near water, while toads prefer dry land.

“African dwarf frogs are excellent frogs,” Mede said. However, they do require excellent water quality in their tanks as they are fully aquatic (and can even be kept in tanks with fish of a similar size). She also recommends fire-bellied toads, milk frogs, horned frogs and white-leaved tree frogs, all of which are excellent hardy species.

The age of the frog you buy doesn’t necessarily matter, Claricoates said. “Some owners prefer to get an adult frog because it gives you a little more leeway as you go through the training process and growing pains of a new pet,” she said. Young frogs are still growing, she added, and without a perfect diet, such as For example, adding a calcium and vitamin supplement to their diet can make a frog’s risk of developing metabolic bone disease quite high.

Your frog’s diet

“In general, I would recommend a varied and optimal diet,” says Mede. Crickets have long been a staple of frog keepers, but they lack the nutrition needed for proper growth and health, she added. If you feed your pet crickets a few times a week, they should be “dusted” with a vitamin/mineral supplement before giving them to your frog or toad.

According to Claricoates, frogs and toads are carnivores, with the best meals coming in the form of anything from fruit flies and other insects to large mice (depending on the frog species). However, frogs rely on high-quality protein from animal fats and minimal carbohydrates. Research your particular species or consult the care guidelines from reputable pet stores for the diet specific to your frog.

Mede agrees and recommends a mix of earthworms (tailored as needed), crickets, roaches, and soft bodied prey like silkworms and hornworms. Noting that different species require different foods, she emphasizes the importance of researching your specific species of frog to determine what they will eat. For example, adult South American horned frogs (commonly called Pac-Man frogs because of their large mouths, round bodies, and large appetites) may occasionally eat a small rodent—but a rodent may not be suited to another species of frog.

Your frog’s environment

Researching your species will be crucial to determining the appropriate temperature, humidity, and bedding for your frog’s habitat, Fabretti said. Some habitat considerations for some popular species of pet frogs, according to Claricoates, are as follows:

Horned Frog: These land frogs should be kept alone due to a tendency towards cannibalism. These are very large frogs that can grow up to 20cm long but are sedentary and therefore do not require much space to roam. Generally, they need at least a 10 to 15 gallon aquarium or tank. The ideal temperature for these frogs is between 77 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, but can drop to 72 degrees Fahrenheit at night with humidity maintained at around 60 to 80 percent. You should have a large bowl of water to soak them in.

These land frogs should be kept alone due to a tendency towards cannibalism. These are very large frogs that can grow up to 20cm long but are sedentary and therefore do not require much space to roam. Generally, they need at least a 10 to 15 gallon aquarium or tank. The ideal temperature for these frogs is between 77 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, but can drop to 72 degrees Fahrenheit at night with humidity maintained at around 60 to 80 percent. You should have a large bowl of water to soak them in. Bullfrog: Requires a minimum enclosure of 20 gallons, with an additional 5 gallons of aquarium space for each additional animal. This ensures that there is enough space and hiding places to prevent territorial aggression. The ideal temperature should be between 77 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit. They should have a floating log or platform they can climb on to get out of the water.

require a minimum enclosure size of 20 gallons, with an additional 5 gallons of aquarium space for each additional animal. This ensures that there is enough space and hiding places to prevent territorial aggression. The ideal temperature should be between 77 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit. They should have a floating log or platform they can climb on to get out of the water. Fire Belly Toads: These toads can be housed singly or in a small group of toads of the same size. You’ll need a 10- to 15-gallon aquarium or a tank big enough for two or three toads. The ideal temperature is 75 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit but can drop to 72 degrees Fahrenheit at night. The humidity in the enclosure should be 50 to 70 percent.

These toads can be housed individually or in a small group of toads of the same size. You’ll need a 10- to 15-gallon aquarium or a tank big enough for two or three toads. The ideal temperature is 75 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit but can drop to 72 degrees Fahrenheit at night. The humidity in the enclosure should be 50 to 70 percent. White Tree Frog: Because they are climbers, these frogs require a tall 15 to 20 gallon aquarium for an adult frog. Larger enclosures are needed for additional frogs (should not exceed five adults). The enclosure temperature should be between 76 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area – an area of ​​elevated temperature in your pet’s enclosure – not exceeding 90 degrees. You need a bowl of water big enough to soak in.

Health problems of frogs

Before bringing your frog home, Fabretti recommends getting it checked out by a vet who specializes in reptiles. She warns about zoonosis – a disease that can be transmitted from animals to humans – and introducing a frog to other species in your household, such as cats and dogs, who may contract an illness or disease. Depending on the illness, your frog may need to be quarantined for a period of time before entering your household.

While there are some of these diseases that frogs can carry, one that is most likely to afflict humans is salmonella. It can be contracted through direct contact with an amphibian or through contact with materials in the frogs’ habitats.

“I strongly recommend thorough hand washing as a preventive measure,” Claricoates said. “From parasites to bacteria and everything in between, you can put yourself at risk of contracting many things if you don’t practice proper hygiene.” Be sure to supervise and help children around amphibians washing their hands after being around pets.

When it comes to later health issues, the biggest problems frogs face in captivity are usually related to water quality, husbandry and nutritional deficiencies, Mede said.

According to Claricoates, frogs are susceptible to a condition commonly known as “short tongue syndrome” or hypovitaminosis A. It can cause swelling of the eyelids, weight loss, bloating from fluid retention, and an increased susceptibility to infection. Vitamin A deficiencies often result from owners feeding their frogs only one or two types of prey that are nutritionally inadequate. This can be prevented by speaking to your veterinarian to determine a variety of feeding options for your frog to keep it healthy. Visit the Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarian Association for recommendations for exotic vets in your area.

native habitat

White tree frog is native to Australia and southern New Guinea and introduced to New Zealand. These tree frogs can live in either seasonally dry or wet habitats. They prefer moist, wooded environments but have skin that can adapt to drier situations. White tree frogs do not typically live in or near water, but rather in trees. Rain collects on leaves, in cup-shaped plants, and in crevices in tree trunks, giving the frogs access to water. These places are filled with water from the almost daily rains and the frogs always have a water source to keep them hydrated.

White tree frogs are not strictly limited to tropical rainforests. In other forests, these frogs avoid dehydration in the dry season by taking refuge in tree cavities or secreting a milky substance called “caerviein.” They wrap their bodies in a cocoon that prevents them from losing too much moisture.

This frog’s adaptability allows it to share suburban and agricultural areas with humans. They have been found in bathrooms, water tanks, and city reservoirs. During the hot summer months, they may appear on home porches or actually enter homes to look for moisture.

Although most frogs begin their lives in water, not all frogs stay there, including tree frogs. As adults, most tree frogs live in, near, or around trees near water, and most tree frogs reproduce in the water they live near. Despite this, you may still be wondering if tree frogs can swim effectively.

In general, tree frogs can swim but are not very good swimmers. Unlike aquatic frogs, instead of webbed feet to propel them in the water, tree frogs have padded toes to help them climb. Tree frogs breed in water but spend very little time there.

Unlike water frogs, tree frogs cannot swim efficiently. This is mainly because their physical characteristics are very different from aquatic frogs, as tree frogs are not made for swimming or aquatic life. Aquatic frogs and tree frogs have different physical adaptations to survive in their respective environments.

Why tree frogs are not good swimmers

Unlike aquatic frogs, which are webbed, excellent swimmers, and live their entire lives in water, tree frogs have padded toes that help them climb and cling to trees and branches. Tree frogs breed in water but spend very little time there.

All frogs are amphibians and therefore spend part of their lives in water and on land. Tree frogs generally live near freshwater bodies such as marshes, marshes, and woodland ponds. Living near water is key to the survival of their species as they reproduce in water.

As tadpoles, they live and feed in water and breathe through gills. And so, as tadpoles, tree frogs are excellent swimmers. But once they reach the frog stage and no longer have a tail or need to live in water, these frogs lose much of their swimming ability. Therefore, tree frogs spend most of their adult lives out of water, in, near, and around trees.

Here’s a look at different types of frogs, their main body features and abilities:

Type of frog Traits Abilities Arboreal (tree) Sucker fingers

Small bodies climb

Holding webbed feet in water (water).

Swimming with long hind legs

Leaping terrestrial (toad) spade feet

Dig sharp digits

Jump

As Einstein once said:

“Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will spend its entire life believing it is stupid.” Einstein

The same goes for tree frogs. If you judge tree frogs by their ability to swim, dive, jump, and leap, you might think they’re “stupid,” but if you judge them by their ability to climb a tree and hold on to leaves, you will think they are geniuses.

Why can’t tree frogs swim like water frogs?

Tree frogs cannot swim like aquatic frogs because they do not have long, powerful hind legs or webs to propel them through the water. Tree frogs have small, light bodies and toes with suction cups that help them climb.

Aquatic frogs have distinct anatomical features including webbed feet, very long and strong hind legs that sit like a feather, allowing them to swim and jump with ease. These limbs are used for swimming, navigating, and balanced landings.

Tree frogs, on the other hand, have sticky pads on their toes that help them climb and cling to tree surfaces instead of swimming. Some tree frogs also have opposable thumbs that make it easier for them to climb, grasp, and jump from branch to branch. Aquatic frogs cannot climb or live out of water for long periods of time like tree frogs.

Tree frogs reproduce in water, allowing them to swim and swim to successfully lay their eggs. However, they do not remain in the water after breeding. Tree frogs cannot swim like water frogs due to physical limitations. They swim slowly and are much less agile in the water than water frogs.

How do tree frogs stay hydrated?

Frogs breathe and drink through their skin, and tree frogs are no exception. However, unlike aquatic frogs, which stay hydrated and oxygenated by sitting in water, tree frogs absorb moisture given off by trees to drink and breathe.

Aquatic frogs need direct access to H2O to drink, breathe, and survive. You spend most of your day in the water relaxing, breathing and staying hydrated. Although they can safely leave the water and live on land while breathing through their lungs, they can only do so for very short periods of time.

However, tree frogs are arboreal, meaning they live in trees and like to climb to avoid predators. To keep their skin hydrated, they generally do not swim or sit in water like aquatic frogs. They breathe and drink by absorbing the moisture around them given off by the earth and trees. They are less dependent on direct access to water compared to aquatic frogs (CTNF).

Do tree frogs lay eggs in water?

All frog species, including tree frogs, toads, and edible frogs, need access to fresh water to lay their eggs. Adult tree frogs and toads lay their eggs in water, although they are not very good swimmers compared to water frogs as the larval stage of their lives is entirely aquatic.

Aquatic frogs have no problem mating or reproducing in water as this is their primary habitat. Frogs reproduce by amplexus and lay their eggs on the water surface, around vegetation, or under water. Most toads and tree frogs do the same, although they are not as good swimmers as water frogs.

Some tree frogs, particularly those in South America, have distinct reproductive strategies that do not involve laying the eggs directly in water. For example, some glass frogs lay eggs on leaves above water, which fall into the water below once they metamorphose into tadpoles. This helps protect the eggs from predators on the ground.

Tree frogs live and feed like other frogs in the water after transforming into tadpoles until they metamorphose into frogs with lungs that allow them to breathe and live on land.

How do tree frogs breathe underwater?

During their larval stage, tree frog tadpoles breathe through their gills. When the tadpoles transform into frogs, they develop lungs to breathe on land. As adults, tree frogs can breathe through their lungs or skin.

The anatomical and physiological respiratory functions of tree frogs are the same as those of other frog species. Adult tree frogs have well-developed lungs and can breathe through their skin even in water.

Learn more about tree frogs and how they swim with the guides on our blog below:

Common questions about tree frog swimming

Can tree frogs drown? Tree frogs, like any other land animal, can drown. Frogs have lungs, although they can also breathe through their skin. If these lungs fill with water, they can drown. Too little oxygen in the water means that the frog cannot absorb enough oxygen to survive.

Can tree frogs go in water? Tree frogs can and generally do only enter the water to reproduce during the mating season. Tree frogs live near, but not in, water as they are not anatomically fit swimmers and prefer to be in or around trees.

Are tree frogs good swimmers? In general, tree frogs can swim but are not very good swimmers. Unlike aquatic frogs, instead of webbed feet to help them swim, tree frogs have padded toes to help them climb. Tree frogs breed in water but spend very little time there.

Do green tree frogs like to swim? Green tree frogs can swim but are not very good swimmers and generally only enter the water to reproduce. Unlike aquatic frogs, instead of webbed feet to help them swim, green tree frogs have padded toes to help them climb.

It’s the holiday season and we have many clients reaching out to us as they plan to surprise their family with a new exotic pet. The most common question we hear around this time is “what’s the best pet for a beginner?” so I thought it might help to put together some blogs covering the top 5 lizards, invertebrates, frogs, geckos, and Covering snakes to showcase who we are is found to be the best choice for someone new to keeping exotic pets. Today’s blog covers the top 5 frogs.

Frogs are a very popular pet for people looking for a stunning terrarium for their home, a pet that can live happily in a relatively small space, or a pet that doesn’t need a lot of attention to thrive. This whole selection looks great and can be kept as an interactive pet or as part of a larger live terrarium/feature terrarium. Holding is easy, making it a great choice for beginners or young owners. Your enclosures can be as simple or as complicated as you like, so there’s room for improvement as you get into the hobby. Finally, you may find yourself with a living rainforest in your home, powered by automatic foggers, sprayers, lighting, and heating!

Horned Frogs (Ceratophrys sp.)

Also known as Pacman frogs, these are a large ground-dwelling species that like to burrow in soil or moss. They are commonly sold in a variety of color morphs such as albino, tri-color, or fantasy, other than lighting for an albino, the care for these variations is exactly the same. When fully grown, this frog can grow to around 8 inches in length and is generally lively, but can be held from behind once you get used to picking it up. This frog is in the top 5 because the setup is extremely easy compared to other species and their diet is not very complicated. We have a facility list and care sheet for this species available on our website. To see what we have in stock please check our stock listing for Northampton and Towcester stores.

Gray Tree Frogs (Hyla chrysoscelis)

Gray tree frogs are small tree frogs commonly found in North America and Canada. They’re the smallest tree frogs on this list, and probably the fastest too. They’re a little tricky to catch and can be stressful for the frog to handle, so they’re not the most interactive of pets, but their size means they can be comfortably housed in a relatively small enclosure, making them a great feature or decorative pet. The minimum size of the terrarium for 1 or 2 frogs is only about 30 x 30 x 45 cm. Coupled with recent advances in bioactive enclosures, this means you can have a fully live tropical enclosure in a glass terrarium anywhere in the home. We have a facility list and care sheet for this species available on our website. To see what we have in stock please check our stock listing for Northampton and Towcester stores.

Dart Frogs (Dendrobates sp.)

Dart frogs are small land frogs commonly known as poison dart frogs. There are many different species in a range of fantastic colors from bright gold to deep blue, green or even red. These small frogs climb a little but need more floor space than height, making them another great option for a compact enclosure. Dart frogs thrive in a live enclosure with roots, plants, and a small body of water, making them a great choice for setting up a paludarium or bioactive terrarium. We have 2 features including dart frogs in the Northampton store and both are beautiful! We have a facility list and care sheet for this species available on our website. To see what we have in stock please check our stock listing for Northampton and Towcester stores.

Red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas)

Red-eye tree frogs are the iconic tree frogs. With bright green, yellow, and blue bodies and bright red eyes, these make spectacular pets. This species gets quite large, so we would have a 45 x 45 x 60 cm terrarium for 1-2 frogs. They need humidity, warmth and UVB and can be very sensitive, but the rewards are worth the work. Although they’re slow most of the day, we see ours light up when it’s mealtime or when they’re being sprayed. As with the other colorful frogs on this list, they look great when paired with a live enclosure and jungle plants. They are one of the most requested pet frogs in the business and as long as you have the setup perfect from day one there is no reason they wouldn’t make a great pet frog for beginners. We have a facility list and care sheet for this species available on our website. To see what we have in stock please check our stock listing for Northampton and Towcester stores.

White tree frogs (Litoria caerulea)

The white tree frog is the largest tree frog in this list. They are usually light blue or green with white underbelly and can grow up to 5 inches long. They are fairly lazy frogs and are therefore relatively easy to catch and handle. These pairs with their size make them one of the easiest to find and manage on the list. We sell more of these than most other tree frogs and they are the most popular family amphibian. We have a facility list and care sheet for this species available on our website. To see what we have in stock please check our stock listing for Northampton and Towcester stores.

I found one in my aunt’s pool filter and thought I’d keep it. I came to this article and now I’m ready to welcome a new family member. Thank you, wikiHow!”

…”

“Very helpful. I love animals and wanted a frog for my guppy aquarium and today happened to be my lucky day. I

A late discovery

Blue poison dart frogs are only found in a few isolated areas of rainforest in Suriname and northern Brazil and were therefore not discovered until 1969. They are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day. They live under rocks and moss near streams but can sometimes be seen high up in the surrounding trees.

Toxic Skin

Poison dart frogs store a natural toxin in their skin that can paralyze or even kill predators. These toxins are not produced by the frog itself, but are due to its diet of highly toxic ants in the wild. The bright coloring of these frogs serves as a warning to potential predators.

Indigenous cultures, such as the Chocó people of Colombia, have used the venom of these frogs for centuries to coat the tip of their darts before hunting — a tradition that inspired the frogs’ common name.

Did you know?

Like most other amphibians, the blue dart frog begins life as an egg. This then develops into a tadpole, which is carried by either the mother or father to a body of water where it can develop. The process of developing into a frog is called metamorphosis and is one of nature’s true marvels.

Fast Facts

Scientific name

Dendrobates tinctorius azureus Native to

Rainforest layer of Suriname and Brazil

Forest Floor Diet

insect size

Maximum length 6 cm weight

5g lifespan

6 years IUCN conservation status

Not evaluated – learn more CITES Appendix ii

Trading restricted – learn more

To ponder

Poison dart frogs are threatened by gathering for the pet trade, habitat destruction, and a deadly fungus called “chytrid” that is wiping out amphibian populations around the world. The “Azureus” is believed to be one of the most endangered poison dart frogs in Central and South America, only found in a small area of ​​Suriname and an even smaller area in northern Brazil.

Define characteristics:

Great tree frog for beginners

dark reddish brown and golden in color and deep red underbelly

bold personality

moderate appeal

Small size

Can be accommodated in groups

Name: Dendropsophus leucophyllatus are commonly referred to as clown tree frogs due to their vivid coloration. Clown tree frogs belong to a species complex totaling over 5 species, which can lead to confusion in identification. D. leucophyllatus has a distinctive leaf shape on its lower back.

Recommended terrarium size: Clown tree frogs are easy to keep. They are smaller tree frogs and can occupy a smaller enclosure – a 12 x 12 x 18 Exo Terra glass terrarium is a good size for 1-2 hatchlings or adults. Opinions differ on substrates – we’ve had good luck with finely ground coco coir, damp paper towel and peat moss. If using sphagnum moss, be sure to press down on the moss so it is flat – this greatly reduces the risk of impaction. Paper towels need to be changed 2-3 times a week. Clown tree frogs need constant access to fresh, clean water – a large water bowl is a must! Use an easy-to-clean bowl, such as B. an Exo Terra water bowl because the frog uses the bowl as a latrine and you need to clean it daily. Scrub the dishes and disinfect with a 5% bleach solution or ReptiSan. Want to make caring for your clown tree frogs easy? Check out Josh’s Frogs tree frog kits!

Temperature: They do best when kept in the mid to high 70’s. At Josh’s Frogs we house our Hourglass Tree Frogs at 74-76F. Temperatures in the mid/high 80 degrees F can be deadly quickly, especially when combined with a lack of water or moisture. Measure the temperature with a digital thermometer.

Humidity: Clown tree frogs require moderately high humidity and are best kept at 60-70% humidity. Providing ventilation is very important – we recommend using at least half a screen top. Standing, humid conditions quickly lead to bacterial skin infections in clown tree frogs. A large bowl of clean water should always be provided. Monitor humidity with a digital hygrometer.

Size: At time of sale, captive bred Clown Tree Frogs from Josh’s Frogs will measure around 1/2″ and be between 8 and 10 weeks old. By about 10 months they will be almost fully grown, with males measuring around 1″ and females around 2″.

Age: With proper care, clown tree frogs can live up to and over 5 years. There are many reports of 8-10 year old animals, and many hobbyists routinely keep clown tree frogs for 4-5 years. All Clown Tree Frogs sold by Josh’s Frogs are 8-10 weeks old.

Feeding: At the time of sale, captive bred Josh’s Frogs Clown Tree Frogs have been eating 1/8 inch crickets, and they will continue to eat this size until they are out of the water for about 4 months. After about 4 months they can be switched to 1/4″ crickets. All crickets should be dusted with a good quality vitamin/mineral supplement. At Josh’s Frogs we dust with Repashy Calcium Plus, RepCal Calcium with D3 and RepCal Herptivite.

Sexing: Clown Tree Frogs are fairly easy to sex as adults. Females are much larger than males, with a broader and more powerful head. Females are about 2.5 cm longer than males and easily 50% heavier. All Clown Tree Frogs sold by Josh’s Frogs are unsexable.

Color/Pattern: In daylight, clown tree frogs are more of a muted brown, yellow, and cream color. At night when active, clown tree frogs are edged in light gold lines and leaf shape near their butt and dark reddish brown. They also have a deep red underbelly.

Social Behaviour: These frogs are easily kept in groups, especially when young. Make sure all frogs get enough food – sometimes frogs outperform each other. We keep males and females separately at Josh’s Frogs – males can disturb females by constantly trying to mate. In this case, separate the frogs or reduce the humidity. Josh’s Frogs recommends purchasing several frogs if you’re interested in breeding them – this greatly increases the chances of getting a pair.

Breeding: Clown tree frogs migrate down to the forest floor in search of pools of water to breed. The eggs are laid on vegetation at water level. Tadpoles grow in the tanks and can leave the water in 10-12 weeks. Young clown tree frogs live at the edges of the pools before re-entering the tree canopy. In captivity, clown tree frogs are typically bred in a rain chamber. Check out our video of Josh’s Frog’s Rain Chamber setup.

Natural Range: In the wild, clown tree frogs inhabit the canopy of tropical rainforests and are endemic to Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Peru and Suriname.

History in the Hobby: Clown tree frogs have a mixed history in the hobby. Typically available as wild-caught animals that didn’t survive long, captive-bred clown tree frogs tend to be hardy captives. More and more clown tree frogs are available in the trade and in the hobby sector – definitely a step in the right direction! There is also evidence that there are distinct phases of D. leucophyllatus, which include the normal phase and the giraffe phase. There are a few species in the complex that have these phases and not all will be D. leucophyllatus.

Links of interest:

amphibianweb

Wikipedia

Article in Reptile Magazine

Still not sure if Clown Tree Frogs from Josh’s Frogs is the right pet frog for you? Read the reviews below and see what other customers are saying!