Bonding Tent For Sugar Gliders? All Answers

With that in mind, let’s cover some IMPORTANT ideas for getting your new baby candy bears to become your BEST FRIENDS!

First off, it’s important to note a few things.

First of all, ANY sugar bear – no matter how stubborn they seem – can (and WILL) bond with their carer, as long as they are persistent and patient enough to go through the bonding procedures we’re going to lay out for you.

The second thing you need to know is that it is MUCH easier to bond with an 8-12 week old baby sugar bear – which is why we ONLY adopt them at that age – and strongly advise against buying animals from other sources that are often lie to unsuspecting new owners about an animal’s date of birth.

Well, the third thing that will determine how well your sugar bears ultimately bond with you is how much time you spend with them during the bonding process. In fact, this part is so important that I will repeat it…

Once again, how WELL your sugar bear will ultimately bond with you depends largely on how much time you spend with them during the bonding process.

If you are just bringing your new baby(s) home for the first time, we strongly recommend that you DO NOT TRY to hold them for the first two days that they are with you.

Instead, when you get home, set up the cage exactly as instructed in the free special report entitled Cage Setup.

Then hold the pouch in the cage, open it and gently fold it inside out so the babies slide into their new cage WITHOUT ever touching them.

From there, just let them “settle in” for the next two days so they can get used to all the new smells, sights, and surroundings in their new home. This really helps them de-stress before you start connecting with them.

During those two days, all you have to do is make sure they have food and water – and read through as many of the special reports and emails as you can, located in the Family Circle section of our website. That way, while your baby is simultaneously “de-stressing,” you will arm yourself with a tremendous amount of knowledge that will greatly speed up the entire bonding process and prepare you much better for anything and everything that may come your way.

Well, and please don’t get this wrong, after over 15 years of placing over 50,000 baby sugar bears in homes across the US, the simple truth is that NOBODY knows more about how to effectively bond with baby sugar bears than we – nobody.

Therefore, before the first 2 days of stress relief is over (and more specifically, BEFORE you EVER take your babies out of their cage) it is absolutely essential that you read AND study the engagement email we are sending you entitled will be: “Mastering the essentials of bonding.” This email is also now available to you in the “Family Circle” section of our website – and it describes each step of what you will do over the next few days, weeks and months to create a bond to build up to your new little babies.

It will teach you step by step how not to stress your little one, not get bitten, and how to make your baby sugar bear a loving part of your family for years to come.

Now that it will be a few days before you start physically interacting with your new pets, the most important thing now is that you understand the reasons why our bonding process is so effective – and specifically why your baby is likely to be in these being so scared of you in the early stages of bonding.

Every once in a while, over the years, we get a call or email from someone who — initially — thinks at least one of their babies is evil and hates it. Well, first of all, I can GUARANTEE that no matter what, your baby won’t be mad – and while she certainly doesn’t “hate” you, she’s most likely FEARING your presence. Well, to someone “newbie” who doesn’t take the time to look at it from BABY’S point of view, it can certainly seem like they don’t like you – but that’s just not the case. For example, one has to consider that in the wild, sugar bears are pretty much at the bottom of the food chain; and instinctively they think that probably EVERY other creature out there is trying to kill and eat them.

Well, if you look at it from that point of view, would you really blame them for being scared? In addition, they are now in a whole new environment, with new smells, new sounds and obviously new people (very often with other pets who are also curious about the little sugar bears). Needless to say, when you add all of this together – their fear is completely understandable.

Now, if you were listening carefully, a second ago I made the statement that sometimes people think “ONE of their babies is evil and/or hates them”. As I said before, a typical sugar bear baby can take anywhere from a few days to a few months to bond, and because they all have unique individual personalities (just like human babies), if you have more than one baby, one will bond almost always much faster than the others.

Since you – like most of our new “moms & dads” – have probably never eaten candy bears before, you don’t know what to expect.

So when one baby seems a lot more anxious than the other, it’s natural to assume that there’s something wrong with them or that they just hate you.

The bottom line is – as I said earlier – that “ANY sugar bear – no matter how stubborn they seem – can (and WILL) bond with their carer as long as they are persistent and patient enough to perform the bonding procedures we will want for you.” lay out.

In short, the first goal of the bonding process is simply to show your babies that you are not trying to kill them. but instead you are here to protect them from danger.

Well, the best way I’ve ever found to explain this to new parents like you is to just compare this whole process to the King Kong story. I wish I could own this great analogy, but it actually came from a very wise “glidewhisper” friend named Lori Hackworth. The reason this comparison is so easy to understand is simply because it puts you right in the mindset of a newly adopted little sugar bear in just a few seconds.

For example, even if you’ve never seen the movie King Kong, you’re bound to be familiar with the plot – and in particular, you can immediately imagine what King Kong himself looks like.

Now imagine you’re just lying in your bedroom… curled up in bed under the covers… and suddenly King King – that HUGE beast – is standing right in front of your house. Now imagine he rams his arm straight through your front door into your bedroom – snatches you up with his hand – and pulls you out; keeps you 10 stories off the ground while he stares at you! …

Well, if you’ve seen the movie, you know that King Kong really is just a gentle giant who doesn’t mean to hurt anyone – but if you were to suddenly find yourself in THAT moment, you’d probably agree with me that I’m absolutely FEARED.

Hell, even if you’re a generally calm and gentle person, you’d be racking your brains at that moment and struggling to get away — and probably even trying to kick, claw, or even bite King Kong’s hand, just to break free , right?..

Well, guess what?… That’s EXACTLY what happens to a new baby sugar bear all curled up in his bedroom/cage – when you, a giant “King Kong”-like creature (no offense), shakes your hand put it in and pick it up . Well, once you put yourself in their shoes, it’s pretty easy to see why many baby sugar bears tend to yell — and sometimes maybe even bite — when they go through this process for the first few times.

Now imagine the same scenario (being held against your will in his claws high off the ground, etc.), but the entire time he’s holding you, he’s not harming you – and eventually brings you back into your home “safely”. & sound”.

What’s more, he’ll come to your house later that day and bring you a nice dinner and dessert to enjoy… You’d probably taste it, eat it, and trust him just a LITTLE more… BUT still, the next day that he comes back to pick you up AGAIN, you’ll probably still be almost as scared as you were the day before. In other words, learning to really trust – will take time. 🙂

The point of this whole story is simply that as this same process takes place every day for weeks or even months, you will LEGENDARY learn and realize that King Kong will do you absolutely no harm – and you will actually get to the point where you do look forward to seeing him every day!

The point is that some people will get used to it quicker than others – but as long as King Kong never hurts them – eventually EVERYONE can do it. For example, some people in this situation might actually feel comfortable after being picked up just a few times. However, it will take most people a little longer to get used to this crazy situation… and some people (who are generally just a little more anxious) may take a lot longer to feel completely comfortable putting themselves in the hands of the gentle giant jump.

Well, this is exactly the same “process” your little SugarBear(s) are going through right now… While some will settle down and bond with you in just a few days, most will take longer; and some will last up to a few months. Having raised literally tens of thousands of these little fellas over the last few years, I would say the average time to “complete bond” is around 4-6 weeks if I had to guess.

For better or worse, some animals will show small signs of progress along the way, and others will learn to trust you practically overnight; but eventually they ALL get to the point where they totally love and trust you – as long as you don’t give up on them. 🙂

The most important thing to remember about this process is that each pet has their own unique personality and there is no way to tell you EXACTLY how long it will take for your pet to learn to trust you. The good news is that I can tell you with great authority that EVERY animal will eventually bond, given the opportunity.

Fortunately, we know a lot of great “tips & tricks” from many years of experience so that it works as quickly and effectively as possible. The more familiar you are with these “shortcuts,” the easier and less frustrating this process will be.

Even if you don’t take your little babies out of the cage for the first 2 days, let’s get you started with an incredible little “trick” you can start using right away – one that DRAMATICALLY helps speed up the entire bonding process.

First of all, you have to understand that your babies will mainly get to know you by your smell. To get the most out of it, I want you to do the following:

Go into your dirty laundry and pull out a small piece of your clothing, e.g. B. an old t-shirt and place it with them in the cage on the heating stone. In general, since you want your babies to get used to your smell as quickly as possible, the more that garment SMELLS like you, the better!

Well, when it comes to this little trick, remember that this works for EVERYONE in your family, not just you. As long as the items are fairly small pieces of fabric or clothing that won’t unravel, it’s generally a good idea to put a small item in the cage from each family member. This gives you a confidence boost – and no, the different scents will not “confuse” your baby.

Well, you’ll need to use your common sense here, so don’t just pack her cage full of dirty laundry – but the general idea is that the more your new baby sugar bear can smell the people who make up his new family, the faster and easier it will be it will be for them to connect with family. If you decide to use the special cage blankets available in our online store, simply rub them over all family members (including other pets). These blankets are specially designed to hold multiple people’s scents over a long period of time – so really rub them in.

Study as much as you can now – and don’t forget to enjoy the journey 🙂 A little patience now – means a LIFETIME of loving companionship – and it’s more than worth the wait!

Much luck!

The Pocket Pets team

4. Bonding, socialization and playtime

To me, this part is the most important and rewarding part of owning a glider.

When you bring your new pet home for the first time, you’ll want to snuggle, kiss and pet this little fluffy butt to pieces! Resist the urge! Many gliders respond positively to being placed in their cage and left ALONE for the first two or three days. Visit the cage and talk to them. Offer treats through the bars. Try to move at the glider’s pace and not at your own pace. I also know it’s very tempting to show off that new ball of fur to all your friends and family. Resist the urge. Once you start handling your new pet, carry the glider with you in a pouch, pocket, or bra. Make sure he feels safe with you. As she/he gets older, you can show her however you want! For now, focus on gaining their trust and making them feel safe.

Some hints:

1. Leave them alone in their cage for a few days and let them get used to it. Gliders really rely on their sense of smell and when everything changes it can be unsettling for them. You need time to soak it all up.

2. Wear an old t-shirt to bed for a few nights. Then place the shirt over the cage to allow the new screen to adjust to your smell more quickly. I’ve found this tactic to really help in rescue operations. You can use adhesive mats (fleece pieces or fleece strips) in the same way. Tuck a few blankets into your shirt for several days, and then tuck those blankets into your glider bag. This will help them get used to your smell. Likewise, you can put some blankets in your glider bag for a few days and when you’re ready to handle them, pull out a blanket and use it to make the glider feel more comfortable.

3. Don’t chase your umbrella around the cage trying to catch it. That’s just frightening for such a small animal! If you are having trouble getting your glider out of the cage, wait for the Suggie to climb into its cage bag and then simply remove the bag with the glider inside. When in doubt, use bribes. Glider pilots love treats. There’s no shame in luring a glider to you with a mealworm or a yogurt treat. The only time I find it acceptable to chase a glider is when one escapes and is in danger. The best technique for catching a glider on the run if it won’t come to you or you won’t let it pick you up is to place a piece of fleece over it and lift it into the ceiling. I would only use this as a last resort as it can startle the screen.

“L” Technique – Take your hand and place it in front of you, palm down, with all fingers touching. Now stretch your thumb out to the side to form an “L” shape. Do you see it? Okay, now gently place the webbed part of your hand to the chest of your glider and then down and back to the back feet. This motion should encourage your glider to “climb” onto the back of your hand. 4. Remember, it takes PATIENCE. This is the key to binding with your paraglider. I bonded to gliders within a week and it also took me up to a year to bond to a glider. I’ve been to both ends. Every glider is different, so take your time and move slowly. It’s worth the wait! Don’t be frustrated if your new little friend doesn’t love you back from day one. Building a relationship takes time.

5. Carry your umbrella with you. Throw on a bag and let your glider nap in it while you do dishes and laundry or sit online and visit websites! All of that time is great bonding time. My gliders love to rest in their pocket on my chest while I read aloud. This allows them to immediately get used to my voice and smell. For you out there, try bra training for your slider. I love carrying a glider or two right under my shirt. I put one of their tiny blankets in (a piece of fleece will do) and then let them climb inside. It’s usually a simple process that they do too quickly. I have several bra babies. I think they enjoy the coziness and hearing a heartbeat.

7. So you have a biter. For some reason your glider bites you. Maybe this is an adult rescue parachute or a re-homed glider. Maybe that in stay-at-home Joey. Maybe this glider is just scared. All you know is your fingers are sore and your heart is broken. There is hope. Try to understand your screen. This is where experience comes in, but any owner can do that. If you can understand why your glider is doing what it is doing, you have a much better chance of changing the behavior. Try to find out if the aggressive behavior is limited to when the glider is in the pocket or cage. Does the biting come with crabs or does this glider just bite? All of this is important. Most biting stems from dominance, fear, aggression, and illness. It’s actually not very likely that you have an aggressive screen on your hands. Chances are the screen is scared or trying to establish dominance by pushing boundaries. I also see a lot of smell induced biting. In other words, your soap, lotion, detergent, etc. will trigger a bite from your scent-centric little glider. If you smell like another glider, you might as well get some nips. With that in mind, I want to cover a technique I use for behavior correction.

“Pssst!” Technique – If I have a nimble paraglider, I have a way of correcting it that speaks its language. I make a sharp “Psssst!” sound them. It’s the same noise another glider would make to yell at a glider for getting too rough. You’ll have to repeat the process… often. But it has been a reliable method for me for a long time.

“Blowing” Technique – I’ve never been a fan of blowing on a glider, but I’ve heard it works too. I would only use this in extreme cases where a glider is biting and drawing blood all the time. I’ve never done it though, so I have no first-hand experience with this method. 8. Gliders need game time too. How would you like it if you could NEVER leave your house? no fun right? That’s not fun for your Suggie either. It doesn’t matter how cool this cage is or how big it is. Sugar gliders need play time. It is crucial to their health and well-being. You must leave them outside for at least an hour every day. I recommend no less than 3-5 hours outside of cage time, with at least an hour being actual play or tent time. Tent time is the time I spend in the tent with my paragliders. It’s a wonderful thing to have at home! They’re cheap (less than $20) and you and your glider can sit in them while they play. They have no choice but to use you as a toy/tree! It’s great for bonding!

Bring your joey home

Bonding Trust & Bonding

tent time

Binding with your Sugar Glider

<< Return to all Sugar Glider help, training, or purchasing Sugar Glider products You can click any blue bold words in this article for more information or to be directed to a specific product recommendation. Bonding with your Sugar Glider is an important part of building a relationship with him/her. It's easier to bond with a young glider, but it's still possible to bond and develop a relationship with an adult glider. Joeys or young gliders should be treated for at least 30 minutes three to four times a day. Adult gliders may be slow to warm up, but with time and patience they can adapt to a new family. Gliders can be shy at first or even aggressive when in an unfamiliar environment, but as they get used to the new sights, smells, and sounds, they will learn to adapt and, over time, bond with you. The Exoitc Nutrition Calming Glove as well as the Bonding Pouches are extremely useful to aid in the bonding process. These are similar to nest pouches in that they provide a warm, comfortable place for a glider to relax, but they also have a zipper to keep a glider securely inside and a strap to carry it around on a person. They are a safe and convenient way to spend all day with your paraglider while it sleeps in the bag. Just walk around and do regular activities and your glider will get used to the smell of you and the sound of your voice. Another great tool to aid in the bonding process is treats! Healthy treats have multiple benefits for both pets and pet owners. A treat can be any delicious snack, the most popular being yoghurt candies or dried fruit. Treats can be used to lure a glider out of its pocket or lair and make human contact with you. Hand-feeding treats helps create a bond between gliders and pet owners, and can help your glider trust you. Read more about healthy treats. The best advice is to be gentle and consistent in everything you do, be patient and loving. Don't pull away if the glider bites. They will try to tame you with their routine. Remember, if you allow your glider to train you, it will. It was always... who breaks in first. A rebellious glider just needs lots of TLC and patience. These little guys can sense your feelings. Don't worry if the glider takes more time to connect - just know that they will end up being the best they can be and will be your best buddy. Slowly moving around the screen also works well. You don't get nervous if you don't get nervous. Sleep with a piece of fleece for a few nights to let your scent rub off on it, then put it in your paraglider's sleeping bag to help it get used to your scent. Remember that time is of the essence. You must remember that little Joey is experiencing a new home, new smells, no more mom or dad, and lots of new sounds. To take your umbrella out of its cage, wait until the umbrella is in its pocket and take the whole pocket out of the cage. Let the gliders stay in the pouch where they feel safe and comfortable, then continue offering treats at the rim of the pouch, lure them out. Treats should be a reward for coming out of the pouch. Try not to force the bond. Time is what you and your paraglider need. Don't chase your glider through the cage, this will make it harder to bond and develop a rapport with your new pet. Looking for more information about Sugar Gliders? Search our article archive: << Back to Sugar Glider Help & Education or Buy Sugar Glider Products << Back to Allor More questions? Our customer service representatives are happy to answer your questions or provide additional information about products. Please contact us. Please Note: Exotic Nutrition is unable to provide specific health and care guidelines on an individual basis. Please visit our pet information tabs or consider purchasing a care guide for additional information. If you have a health or pet emergency issue, please notify your veterinarian or a specialized technician.

Sugar gliders are very clever animals that thrive when their brains are stimulated. Whether it’s working on their bond with you, playing with toys, or just discovering a new interesting stimulus, these sneaky little furballs are always looking for something fun! Gliders love toys that make noise, toys that are soft, toys that they can chew, and toys that they can carry in their sleeping bag.

The Pet Glider carries all kinds of toys that are safe and fun for your gliders! All Sugar Gliders have different interests and personalities. Some may prefer a toy set, others may prefer to run in their balance bike! The key is to give them variety to see what they like. Wheels are an absolute must for any cage as these guys are such energetic animals and need the opportunity to walk! Aside from the wheel, you can change toys often to keep them interested and entertained!

For a list of all our toys click here!

cork

Cork is a great enrichment toy for all glider pilots! They love to jump and climb on their toys and the cork helps wear down their nails as they walk. All-natural cork is also an excellent chewing substance! Chewing is a natural behavior and your Suggies need a safe way to exercise this instinct. The Pet Glider makes our toys from natural, organic cork bark. Handcrafted with expert care, our toys will have your sugar bears jumping for joy!

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eucalyptus

Eucalyptus trees are the natural habitat for Sugar Gliders. In fact, that’s where they get their name from! Gliders are known to peel off the bark of eucalyptus trees and drink the tree sap (mistaken for “sugar”). Gliders in the wild often chew on eucalyptus wood and bring the leaves back to their nesting site. They love the smell and chewing it also helps their teeth. (Psst, it’s also a natural insect repellent!) You can buy bundles of organic eucalyptus on our website. Just put the sticks/twigs in the cage and watch them go crazy! We also offer a variety of original toys made from eucalyptus branches. All of our eucalyptus toys are 100% organic and 100% fun for your babies!

Always make sure you buy your eucalyptus from a reputable source, which means no pesticides are used. Also, be sure to wash your branches before placing them in the cage.

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natural objects

With similar benefits to cork and eucalyptus toys, you can buy a variety of naturally-based items such as: B. our pumpkin and coconut toys! If you ever want to buy or craft new toys for your Suggies, make sure you buy items from an approved source. There are many woods and natural objects that can be poisonous to gliders so be very careful and always do your research!

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Plastic Plastic chains, bracelet rings, dangling charms, food cups… there are so many plastic toys out there that are glider safe and loads of fun! It’s so entertaining watching these little fur babies grab their toys and try to move them around. Here’s a nice tip: place a toy with plastic chains near his sleeping bag. If you look back in the morning you’ll probably see that the necklace has been pulled into its pouch! Gliders usually like to take things with them in their pocket (or nest) to collect in their happy place. Plastic is the easiest toy to clean and is usually the most cost-effective. You never have to struggle to find these kinds of toys for your babies! Remember to always throw away any chewed plastic or small bits left at the bottom of the cage. —Fleece Fleece is commonly used for Sugar Gliders because it doesn’t fray like other fabrics. (That means when you cut it, no streaks come out of the ends.) It also has unique properties and wicks moisture (moisture penetrates). Sugar Gliders love to bury their face in something soft, so The Pet Glider stock fleece sleeping bags, bonding pouches and a variety of fleece toys! There are different types of fleece, but the most popular choice for paragliders is anti-pill fleece. (Check out all our fleece toys) —

Raptor wheel

One of the most important toys you can get for your gliders is a wheel! A safe Sugar Glider balance bike is an absolute must. The Pet Glider carries the Raptor Wheel brand, a totally safe wheel that will last your gliders for a lifetime. Your bike should be completely flat on the back (with no bar or bearing mechanism in the middle) and the chains should mesh to allow debris to fall through.

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DIY toys

Of course you are welcome to make your own toy!! You can make a combination of cork + fleece, eucalyptus + fleece, plastic chains + coconuts… the possibilities are endless! Sugar gliders are very curious animals and love to play with things. So the more they can do, the better! Try different combinations to see which items your gliders love the most!

contents

Why are my Sugar Gliders fighting?

Sugar gliders are known for being adorable and cute. However, their looks can sometimes be deceiving as they can also be oddly aggressive in ways that their owners don’t quite understand.

Owners of more than one Sugar Glider may become concerned and alarmed when they see their Sugar Glider fighting and hear the sound of two Sugar Gliders fighting. Why is this happening and how can a Sugar Glider owner stop this behavior?

Hopefully we can answer that question here for your peace of mind.

If you accommodate two or more sugar gliders in the same area, you must be aware that there is a chance that they will fight. However, not every instance of combat is something to worry about. Some sugar gliders conspire to burn energy or dominate each other with no intention of causing harm, but how can you tell the difference?

When wrestling becomes real fights, what should you as an owner do to minimize this problem? Sugar Gliders behavior can be tricky to figure out, especially for new owners, so let’s get down to basics.

Why do Sugar Gliders fight at all?

Sugar gliders are very similar to humans in that they can sometimes live amicably with other sugar gliders, but not every potential housemate is perfect. Even with non-single sugar gliders, space can be a problem. In addition to conflicting temperaments, sugar gliders might fight because they don’t have enough space or are stressed. Even if your sugar gliders have never shown aggression towards one another before, they may start fighting under these circumstances, so it’s important to practice the highest quality of sugar glider care possible.

Playfighting vs. Actual Fighting: Know the Difference

Sugar gliders can wrestle when a more aggressive sugar glider tries to bite each other. Through a practice known as “appeasement,” the other sugar glider may appear to disregard the attacker, thus signaling his surrender before a wrestling match breaks out. However, if it doesn’t budge, problems can set in and start interfering with each other.

When sugar gliders wrestle, you’ll often see them trying to overpower each other. However, sometimes none of the sugar gliders want to give up and then a real fight can ensue. Fighting between sugar gliders is just like fighting between other animals, they become more aggressive and potentially more dangerous as the fight continues. If a sugar glider is not defeated in a wrestling match, hear and see things from its enclosure that indicate a fight is taking place, such as: B. more intense biting and louder squeaking.

What to do when your sugar gliders are fighting

The quickest way to put an end to sugar glider fighting is to physically separate them immediately. However, this can get uncomfortable and you should do so with caution. Two agitated sugar gliders could accidentally injure their owner when they reach into the enclosure with their hands to pull them apart.

Try to wear gloves when doing this to avoid the risk of being scratched or bitten by your sugar gliders. If you don’t feel comfortable reaching out with your hands while your sugar gliders fight, a squirt of water from a spray bottle could motivate them to scatter. After that, you can pick up a sugar glider to safely separate them.

Cohabiting sugar gliders may need a cool down period, just like humans need some time after an altercation with another person. This “time out” should be at least a full day, with a gradual reintroduction. If you use the sugar gliders again, you should monitor their behavior very closely for a few days afterwards.

Unless they are interacting with each other just to fight, it is highly recommended that they be separated permanently.

Prevent sugar gliders from fighting

While you can’t control the personalities and relationships of your two sugar gliders, there are some things you can do to minimize the risk of fights between these little creatures.

Try to keep these tips in mind as you prepare to have cohabiting sugar gliders, but remember: following all of this advice doesn’t guarantee peaceful room sharing.

Remember, it’s not an owner’s fault if their sugar gliders just don’t get along.

Keep the cage clean

Be sure to keep your sugar glider area clean to avoid a build up of odors that can stress your sugar gliders.

Try changing the layout

Keep in mind that a pair of Sugar Gliders will require more room to move around than just a single Sugar Glider, so their main living area should be larger than what you would normally use for a single Sugar Glider. When an aggressive sugar glider feels very trapped and constrained, it can cause stress, leading to fighting behavior.

Try to create a bigger area and add new toys and elements to keep your sugar gliders entertained and make sure they have their own space.

Could food be the problem?

If you think it might be food, make sure to put it in different places in his enclosure, put some food high and some low so they have to search for their meal a bit. Consider using hanging bird cups, which work well and can be moved to a different location each night.

A permanent separation may be required

Unfortunately, the only way to ensure your sugar gliders don’t fight each other is to keep them permanently separate and never put them in the same enclosure at any point.

The sad truth is that the internet is full of self-proclaimed sugar glider “experts” websites claiming they will send “beautiful hand-tamed joeys to an airport near you.”

Many of these sites also “lure” uninformed customers by promising discount prices as low as $100-$150 per animal.

The simple truth is that in today’s internet age, ANYONE can “look and sound” professional. In reality, however, you never KNOW for sure what you’re REALLY going to get when you buy an animal over the Internet – and as the old saying goes, “There’s no such thing as a free lunch”…

In contrast, at Pocket Pets™ we PREFER not to “ship” individual pets. Instead, we happily take each baby to our new “moms and dads” personally. and meet each of them face to face in person. We don’t just do this because it’s extremely expensive to “ship” a baby and all of their supplies (usually an additional $200-$300) – but mostly because it’s easier for young babies to be hand-delivered .

At Pocket Pets™, we believe that actually “meeting” the people you are dealing with is very important for new “moms and dads” like you, especially when purchasing a Sugar Glider designed for the next 12-15 years will be part of your family. That’s why we travel across the country every week to introduce people to these wonderful little pets.

So if you’ve just got back from an event near you – (and are in the process of doing your homework) – we strongly encourage you to visit us while we’re still in town. Our professionals are happy to PERSONALLY answer any questions you still have – and help you welcome these adorable little pets into your home.

However, if you’re pretty sure you’re ready for adoption, click here for the safest way to buy a Sugar Glider. The link will take you to our Adoption Center for more information about our preferred adoption program. We have to let you know that demand is at an all time high, but if we have babies available you may apply for adoption.

Q–What are sugar gliders? Do they cost a lot? What Are the Pros and Cons of Owning Sugar Gliders?

–Atlantic city

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A–Sugar Gliders are the trendiest pets out there. This 10 to 12 inch long marsupial is the ultimate bag animal and loves to snuggle up in dark places like daypacks and shirt pockets.

Native to Australia and New Guinea, they glide from tree to tree feeding on sweet eucalyptus plants, hence the name.

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Sugar gliders are cute, with a black stripe down the center of their forehead (like some chipmunks) leading to large brown eyes and independently rotating ears, like little radar dishes.

At 10 or 11, sugar gliders are a long-term responsibility. You need the company of another sugar glider or a responsive human. Without a friend to commit to, they can become depressed and eventually die of loneliness. Even gliders living with a glider attendant require out-of-cage training almost daily.

An owner must also be prepared to be a sugar glider chef. These little guys need a varied diet that includes shredded fresh fruit and vegetables, dog or cat food (it’s unclear which goes better with gliders), eggs in shell (too many shells can cause problems, too little can cause calcium deficiency), Mealworms (crickets or earthworms for the occasional change), plain yogurt, vitamin supplements and your favorite treat, nuts (unsalted and unroasted). Perishable goods such as fresh fruit and yoghurt must be changed daily.

Paraglider cages need to be cleaned several times a week to prevent smelly bacteria build-up. And while individual gliders may predictably urinate upon waking or in their cage, there is no guarantee of burglary.

Depending on where you live and where you buy your pet, glider prices vary from $175 to $400.

We urge you to research these little critters instead of making an impulse decision. Two good books are Sugar Gliders: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual by Caroline MacPherson (Barron’s Educational Series Inc., $6.95) and Complete Care Guide For Your Sugar Glider by Debbie Dillon, $16.95, including postage (write Debbie Dillon, 5429 N. Central Ave., Chicago, Illinois 60630 or call 773-774-3775).

Q: My 4 month old kitten is biting me. I tried to scream and smash a rolled up newspaper on the ground to no avail. My vet says to hold her neck and shake her. Does this help or harm the cat?

– Margate, Fla.

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A–If you shake hard enough, a little kitten may get hurt. Not to mention the distrust you create. We passionately disagree with your vet. Aggression breeds more aggression and fear.

Jacque Schultz, behavior consultant and director of pet services at the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Aniamls in New York City, has a better plan.

“When a kitten bites, make a hissing sound similar to that of a mother cat. Be disapproving, and if the cat doesn’t scurry away, scoot away. Now completely ignore the cat for about 10 minutes.”

Individual kittens react differently, and it’s possible that yours is entrenched in that behavior. If the hissing fails, try blowing a puff of air in your cat’s face. If that doesn’t work, get a small can of compressed air (photo stores sell them for cleaning camera lenses).

In the meantime, it’s imperative to provide appropriate opportunities for normal feline mischief. Interactive toys like feather sticks (huge, oversized feathers scare some kitties) and a gerbil called the Incredible Motor Mouse are some of our favorites.

Also understand the typical kitten cycle of intense play followed by deep sleep. Don’t try to cuddle when the kitten is in play mode. Instead, hold your cat and tell her what a cute girl she is while she snoozes. You can even wake her up for being such a good, quiet little lady and then offer a treat.

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Steve Dale welcomes letters. He cannot respond individually, but will respond to questions of general interest in this column. You can write to him at the Chicago Tribune, Home section, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Illinois 60611. Or email [email protected]. If the problem is urgent, consult a veterinarian immediately.

Sugar gliders are exotic pets that are just as smart as dogs. When it comes time to name them, name them something they can easily understand. Usually, simple two-syllable names are the best choice. If you train them, they can learn their names and come when you call them. Take a look at 100 names including male, female, funny and unique names for your mini marsupial.

Top Sugar Glider Names

yoda

Cuddling

Gidget

savannah

sugar Baby

roo

buttercup

Joey

rocket

whiskers

Pip squeak

Angel

Furby

ninja

bandit

Tips on naming your Sugar Glider

While a sugar glider may look like a rodent or flying squirrel, it’s not – it’s a member of the kangaroo and koala family. Since they can live 12 to 15 years, think of a name that will last. Baby sugar gliders are the size of a grain of rice at birth; They are called joeys, like newborn kangaroos, and grow larger in their mother’s pouch. Some familiar names are Joey, Roo and Ozzy (this could also be a nod to being native to Australia). When trying to come up with a name, look at its special markings or personality traits.

Names of sugar gliders for girls

As an exotic animal, this pet deserves a flashy name. Check out some matching feminine finds for your sugar glider.

Anastasia

Andromeda

Aphrodite

angie

Buffy

crystal

fergie

Gidget

jasmine

jewel

Kona

savannah

sydney

Tinkerbell

widget

Xena

Zen

zoe

Sascha

kiki

Names of sugar gliders for boys

If you have a sugar glider male and want an unconventional masculine name, there are a few that are just right for you.

Angus

bandit

bo

Caesar

charger

diesel

frankie

Frasier

gizmo

Hamilton

Joey

jeeves

fool

jingles

Hex

Merlin

ozzy

Tobi

taz

watson

Sugar Glider names with pop culture references

Movies, TV shows, and literature are full of names—often for other animal species—that might go well together or make a fun juxtaposition. These little creatures hardly look like Rambo, Cujo or Goliath, but the name will make you chuckle when paired with these mini marsupials.

Cujo

Goliath

rambo

Rocky

yoda

Zeus

sugar shock

Batman

rocket

scratch

gremlin

mogwai

monkey boy

Nemo

Neo

Sting

Smeagol

scabies

Frodo

Chewbacca

Unique Sugar Glider Names

Wild sugar gliders have gray fur with a black back stripe and a white underbelly. Captive bred varieties can come in a variety of colors and markings. What makes your sugar glider unique is its markings, color, personality or whimsical actions. Observe your pet and see if you can think of a name from what you see.

angelina

stripes

angel wings

Angel

Brisbie (like Brisbane)

dodgers

sailor

freckles

Lively

Furby

Furry

Pip squeak

whiskers

wobbles

ninja

charger

Small foot

spaz

muddy

flying guy

Adorable Sugar Glider names

These sweet big-eyed ones have eternal baby faces and adorable big ears. They are good natured and affectionate when bonding with their human companion. No wonder “cute” names are popular with this pet.

Cupcake

Cuddling

cupid

pudding

jelly bean

sugar Baby

waffles

chippy

lady

doodle

Precious

pretty

pepper

roo

Ewok

Shug

cookie

buttercup

flower

petunia

A to Z Sugar Glider names

AWAY

Anastasia

Andromeda

Angel

angel wings

angelina

angie

Angus

Aphrodite

bandit

Batman

bo

brisbie

Buffy

buttercup

CD

Caesar

charger

charger

lady

Chewbacca

chippy

cookie

crystal

Cuddling

Cujo

Cupcake

cupid

pudding

diesel

dodgers

doodle

E.g

Ewok

fergie

flower

flying guy

frankie

Frasier

freckles

Lively

Frodo

Furby

Furry

Gidget

gizmo

Goliath

gremlin

HM

Hamilton

jasmine

jeeves

jelly bean

fool

jewel

jingles

Hex

Joey

kiki

Kona

Small foot

Merlin

mogwai

monkey boy

NO

Nemo

Neo

ninja

ozzy

pepper

petunia

Pip squeak

Precious

pretty

rambo

rocket

Rocky

roo

S-T

sailor

Sascha

savannah

scabies

scratch

Shug

Smeagol

spaz

muddy

Sting

stripes

sugar Baby

sugar shock

sydney

taz

Tinkerbell

Tobi

W-Z

Sugar gliders are one of the cutest pets. They are very sociable animals and actively use sounds, including bark, to communicate. But what does a sugar glider bark mean? And what do all her other vocalizations mean?

dr Jess explains the bark of the sugar glider below:

What is a sugar glider?

Sugar Gliders are also commonly known as “Sugar Gliders” and “Honey Gliders”.

They are a small cute animal kept in captivity as pocket pets.

Sugar gliders have large eyes, soft coats with a bark dorsal stripe (back stripe), and small triangular ears.

They belong to the marsupial family (like kangaroos) and hold their babies (called joeys) in the female’s pouch, which surrounds her abdominal area.

They have a fold of skin under their arms that allows them to glide in the air with their arms outstretched.

Sugar Gliders can live to be 5-7 years old and are social animals who get depressed easily without friends.

what is barking

A bark is a sound most commonly made by dogs, wolves, coyotes, and seals.

These animals use this barking sound to indicate things like warning/alert, excitement, need for something, etc.

Under normal circumstances, sugar gliders can make four main types of noise, including barking. The other three main sounds are crabs, chirps/purrs, and hisses.

Why do sugar gliders bark in the wild?

Just as a human yell, screech, or yell can mean many different things, a sugar glider’s “bark” can also mean a few different meanings. Below I’ve mentioned some of the main reasons why a sugar glider may bark.

In the wild, sugar gliders tend to bark as a “warning” when a predator enters the area where their colony is currently located, warning other gliders of the intruder.

You may find that all the gliders in the area will freeze in place after a warning bark. This is because a predator is less likely to see and eat them in the wild when they are stationary.

They may also use barking as part of their mating practices when trying to find a mate.

Why do sugar gliders bark in captivity?

Humans talk to communicate, dogs bark to communicate, and so do sugar gliders. The sound of a sugar glider barking is similar to that of a very small dog.

Expect to hear some barking if your Sugar Glider needs to tell other Sugar Gliders or you something.

The bark of a sugar glider is a very sophisticated way of communicating between members of the species and their attempt to communicate with us.

While it may seem that most of the time, when they bark, they want attention, it can also be a way to talk to each other.

Now at home, baking can happen if they are suddenly exposed to someone or something they don’t know or are unfamiliar with, such as: B. a strange person or a strange animal or noise.

Another common reason sugar gliders bark is simply that it’s a call to you or other beings (human or animal) around them.

There’s usually a reason a sugar glider barks. Most coherent sugar gliders don’t usually “bark” for no reason, even if it’s a silly reason in our eyes.

While a sugar glider’s “bark” may sound the same to the untrained ear, it can actually mean very different things depending on the bark.

Barking sounds like: Barking from a Chihuahua or other very small dog.

Reason for Barking: Boredom, playtime/excitement, as a warning, annoyance, calling for someone, or sometimes barking for no reason.

BORED:

If you only have one umbrella, chances are they will feel bored and lonely at times, especially when you’re not around. They can bark or “talk” and try to find a sugar glider friend.

Some believe their barking has something to do with being lonely and seeking attention from you or another sugar glider.

However, households with multiple sugar gliders have reported that their sugar gliders still bark despite being together. So maybe barking doesn’t always mean they’re lonely

ARMED / EXCITED:

If you hear barking, check to make sure everything is okay with your sugar glider or its surroundings. Remember, sugar gliders rarely bark without a reason!

It can be as small and simple as an empty water bottle or food bowl in their enclosure, to as large as a predator near their cage.

So, be on the safe side and check your barking sugar glider to see if their barking seems unusual or more abrupt than normal.

Other sounds sugar gliders make:

Crab-like chirping/purring hissing

CRABS:

Sugar Gliders have a unique sound that some people describe as a swarm of locusts, with a sound that fades in and out with a high pitch.

Crabs are considered one of the most common sounds sugar gliders make and is usually the first sound new sugar glider owners hear from their new pet.

Crabs is just a big act where your sugar glider tries to be a brave tough guy and act bigger than he really is.

It often occurs in the early stages of bonding with the new sugar glider, while the sugar glider is scared and unsure of their new surroundings and human.

Once a glider is well connected to people, they will rarely make this sound.

The only other common time they make this noise is when they’re suddenly startled or feel threatened by someone they don’t know.

Sounds: like grasshoppers going up and down in pitch. It is loud and can be heard throughout the house and is often heard repeatedly.

: like locusts walking up and down in pitch. It is loud and can be heard throughout the house and is often heard repeatedly. Reason: Fear, anger, warning call, cry for help or attention.

TREMBLING/WHIRRING:

Chirp is a soft purr or chirp.

It is a sound made when a glider expresses affection for its human or for each other.

Sugar gliders not only use chirping to communicate with each other, but also with their humans. A lot of people think one of them is their way of saying “I love you.”

Sugar gliders also chirp to their new babies while breastfeeding.

Sounds: half purr / half chirp

: half purr / half chirp Reason: happy, satisfied, expressing affection

HISS:

Sugar gliders not only bark like a dog, they sometimes hiss like an angry cat.

Sugar gliders may emit a soft sneeze or hiss.

Most of the time, that “sneeze” or hiss is actually just a natural part of their cleansing and grooming ritual.

Sugar gliders spit in their hands, make a soft sneezing sound, and then groom their entire body with their wet hands. It’s the sugar glider version of a cat licking itself clean.

If you notice they’re doing it excessively, it’s best to contact your local veterinarian immediately for next steps.

Although this sound could be an indicator of a serious medical problem such as B. a respiratory infection, it is completely normal in most cases.

General information

Sugar gliders (Petaurus breviceps) are small, nocturnal mammals that are usually nocturnal and sleep during the day. Like kangaroos, they are marsupials and as such possess a pouch in which the female sugar glider raises her young. In the wild, they live in New Guinea and the east coast of Australia in coastal or rain forests. They are social animals, typically living together in groups of six to ten, so they should not be kept as individuals. Sugar gliders have unique nutritional needs that must be properly met to maintain good health (see Sugar Gliders – Feeding handout).

Physical Properties

Male sugar gliders typically weigh 100-160 grams and adult females weigh between 80-130 grams. Weights vary between individuals and the different subspecies. Sugar gliders can glide up to 50 meters using their gliding membrane that stretches between the front and back legs. Both males and females have large eyes.

“Sugar gliders can glide up to 50 meters using their gliding membrane that stretches between front and back legs.”

Males have a frontal scent gland located on top of the head. This gland is used to mark territory and recognize other group members. In adult males, hair around this gland is sparse or absent.

Unlike other mammals, but similar to birds and reptiles, sugar gliders possess a cloaca. The cloaca is a common opening for the rectum, urinary system, and genital system.

The male sugar glider has a long, pendulous scrotum and a forked (bifid) penis. It is recommended that male sugar gliders be neutered (neutered), especially when housed with other sugar gliders of either sex. Intact male gliders tend to mutilate themselves. Neutering is relatively easy (although enlargement may be required) and can be performed at any age by a veterinarian experienced in exotic pet medicine.

“It is recommended that male sugar gliders be spayed, especially when housed with other sugar gliders of either sex.”

The female sugar glider has two uteri and two vaginas that enter a common sac separated by a septum, or membrane. Female gliders possess a pouch with four teats in which their babies develop. The gestation period, or length of pregnancy, is around 15-17 days. Sugar gliders usually give birth to one or two babies at a time. After birth, the tiny young (joeys) migrate to the pouch where they stay for 70-74 days before finally exiting the pouch.

Sexual maturity varies but is generally reached by age 8-12 months in females and 12-15 months in males. Sugar Gliders are considered geriatric pets at the age of 5-7 years. The average lifespan is 10-12 years and for captive animals it depends a lot on how they are cared for.

behavioral characteristics

Sugar gliders can make good pets. They are lively, curious, playful and intelligent. Socialized sugar gliders love to cuddle and will often curl up in the safety of a shirt pocket. If they are given a lot of attention, they will bond with their owners. To socialize them properly, plan on spending an hour or two a day handling your sugar gliders (it’s easier at night because they’re nocturnal).

“To properly socialize them, plan on spending an hour or two a day handling your sugar gliders…”

Sugar gliders are not easily handled by strangers and will often bite, vocalize, and/or urinate if forcibly restrained. They can become restless if disturbed during the day. Sugar gliders can be nimble; Be careful if you have small children.

Sugar gliders are great escape artists and can squeeze through the smallest of openings with ease. Cages must be “pet proof” to prevent escape and injury. They are naturally curious and will chew and swallow many things; Do not give them toys that can be easily chewed.

Choosing Your Pet

Ideally, you should purchase one or more young sugar gliders. The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge that could indicate a respiratory infection. The sugar glider should be excited. It should have a healthy body condition. Check for moisture around the anus, which could indicate diarrhea. Check for the presence of external parasites such as fleas. If possible, examine the animal’s mouth for broken teeth or obvious wounds that could indicate illness. Inquire if the sugar glider has been spayed or neutered.

The first vet visit

Your Sugar Glider should be examined by a Sugar Glider qualified veterinarian within 48 hours of purchase (this is often required by the seller as otherwise any health guarantee will be void). During this appointment, your veterinarian will discuss proper care, housing, and your sugar glider’s unique dietary needs. A fecal sample is examined for internal parasites. Much like dogs, cats, and other pets, sugar gliders require annual vet visits to ensure they maintain excellent health.

vaccinations

Vaccines are not required for pet sugar gliders.

General information

Sugar gliders (Petaurus breviceps) are small, nocturnal mammals that are usually nocturnal and sleep during the day. Like kangaroos, they are marsupials and as such possess a pouch in which the female sugar glider raises her young. In the wild, they live in New Guinea and the east coast of Australia in coastal or rain forests. They are social animals, typically living together in groups of six to ten, so they should not be kept as individuals. Sugar gliders have unique nutritional needs that must be properly met to maintain good health (see Sugar Gliders – Feeding handout).

Physical Properties

Male sugar gliders typically weigh 100-160 grams and adult females weigh between 80-130 grams. Weights vary between individuals and the different subspecies. Sugar gliders can glide up to 50 meters using their gliding membrane that stretches between the front and back legs. Both males and females have large eyes.

“Sugar gliders can glide up to 50 meters using their gliding membrane that stretches between front and back legs.”

Males have a frontal scent gland located on top of the head. This gland is used to mark territory and recognize other group members. In adult males, hair around this gland is sparse or absent.

Unlike other mammals, but similar to birds and reptiles, sugar gliders possess a cloaca. The cloaca is a common opening for the rectum, urinary system, and genital system.

The male sugar glider has a long, pendulous scrotum and a forked (bifid) penis. It is recommended that male sugar gliders be neutered (neutered), especially when housed with other sugar gliders of either sex. Intact male gliders tend to mutilate themselves. Neutering is relatively easy (although enlargement may be required) and can be performed at any age by a veterinarian experienced in exotic pet medicine.

“It is recommended that male sugar gliders be spayed, especially when housed with other sugar gliders of either sex.”

The female sugar glider has two uteri and two vaginas that enter a common sac separated by a septum, or membrane. Female gliders possess a pouch with four teats in which their babies develop. The gestation period, or length of pregnancy, is around 15-17 days. Sugar gliders usually give birth to one or two babies at a time. After birth, the tiny young (joeys) migrate to the pouch where they stay for 70-74 days before finally exiting the pouch.

Sexual maturity varies but is generally reached by age 8-12 months in females and 12-15 months in males. Sugar Gliders are considered geriatric pets at the age of 5-7 years. The average lifespan is 10-12 years and for captive animals it depends a lot on how they are cared for.

behavioral characteristics

Sugar gliders can make good pets. They are lively, curious, playful and intelligent. Socialized sugar gliders love to cuddle and will often curl up in the safety of a shirt pocket. If they are given a lot of attention, they will bond with their owners. To socialize them properly, plan on spending an hour or two a day handling your sugar gliders (it’s easier at night because they’re nocturnal).

“To properly socialize them, plan on spending an hour or two a day handling your sugar gliders…”

Sugar gliders are not easily handled by strangers and will often bite, vocalize, and/or urinate if forcibly restrained. They can become restless if disturbed during the day. Sugar gliders can be nimble; Be careful if you have small children.

Sugar gliders are great escape artists and can squeeze through the smallest of openings with ease. Cages must be “pet proof” to prevent escape and injury. They are naturally curious and will chew and swallow many things; Do not give them toys that can be easily chewed.

Choosing Your Pet

Ideally, you should purchase one or more young sugar gliders. The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge that could indicate a respiratory infection. The sugar glider should be excited. It should have a healthy body condition. Check for moisture around the anus, which could indicate diarrhea. Check for the presence of external parasites such as fleas. If possible, examine the animal’s mouth for broken teeth or obvious wounds that could indicate illness. Inquire if the sugar glider has been spayed or neutered.

The first vet visit

Your Sugar Glider should be examined by a Sugar Glider qualified veterinarian within 48 hours of purchase (this is often required by the seller as otherwise any health guarantee will be void). During this appointment, your veterinarian will discuss proper care, housing, and your sugar glider’s unique dietary needs. A fecal sample is examined for internal parasites. Much like dogs, cats, and other pets, sugar gliders require annual vet visits to ensure they maintain excellent health.

vaccinations

Vaccines are not required for pet sugar gliders.

Sugar gliders are popular exotic pets as they are small, cute, and unique little marsupials native to Australia and parts of Indonesia. Their bodies resemble squirrels, with gray fur and black markings. They also have a gliding membrane — a thin, skin-like structure that stretches almost like wings from the forelimbs to the hind limbs on each side — that helps them move between trees.

Sugar gliders are playful, curious, and social pets. But they require frequent handling to keep them tame, along with plenty of room for movement. They also have a very special diet. These animals are not for beginners, and you should put a lot of effort into researching the species before purchasing a sugar glider. Then expect to spend several hours a day caring for them.

Species Overview COMMON NAME: Sugar Glider SCIENTIFIC NAME: Petaurus breviceps ADULT SIZE: 5 to 8 inches long (tail adds an additional 6-8 inches); weighs between 2 and 5 ounces LIFESPAN: 10 to 15 years in captivity

Can you own a pet sugar glider?

legality

Sugar gliders are illegal in several states including Alaska, Hawaii and California. But even if your state allows them, make sure they are legal at the local level. And in some places they require a permit to stop. The best way to determine if it’s legal for you to own a sugar glider is to check the UDSA’s APHIS website for the laws in your area.

ethics

Many experts believe that sugar gliders, which are very social animals that need lots of activities, a large living space, and lots of companionship, aren’t smart pets because they believe the animals will suffer — and possibly get depressed — when their needs aren’t well made.

things to consider

Can you provide the right environment, do you have the space to provide a large enough enclosure? Do you have the funds and time to advocate for the adoption of two Sugar Gliders so you’re never alone? Are you close to a vet who is knowledgeable about these exotic marsupials so you can find the right medical care? These are all things to think about before you buy your pet.

Sugar glider behavior and temperament

Many people find pet sugar gliders adorable and entertaining. They are fast, like to climb and glide from place to place when their space allows. Also, as nocturnal animals (i.e. they are most active at night), they like to snuggle up in a cozy nest to sleep during the day.

Because they are social animals, having more than one sugar glider, one male and at least one female, is usually ideal. However, they must be kept away from other species of pets in the household – such as cats and dogs – as they could injure one another.

Regular human interaction is very important if you want your glider to connect with you. If you allow a sugar glider to fly in your shirt pocket or in a pouch hanging around your neck, you can easily interact with it throughout the day. If your glider isn’t used to being handled, it may take some time to get snuggly with you. Sugar gliders are not generally aggressive pets, but they will bite if they feel threatened or frightened. It is important to be very patient and gentle with them.

Additionally, sugar gliders are quite vocal pets and have various sounds to let you know when they are upset, scared, hungry and more. They typically emit an audible warning when angry before attempting to bite. You can hear this sound when waking up a sleeping glider.

1:02 Watch Now: How are sugar gliders as pets?

Housing

A case that is 36 inches wide, 24 inches deep, and 36 inches high is a good minimum size for a pair of sugar gliders. Bigger is always better, and height is more valuable than floor space due to the climbing and gliding activities of these small marsupials.

The wire spacing of the cage should be no more than half an inch wide, and the bars should be horizontal for ease of climbing. The inside of the cage should contain lots of toys and an enclosed wheel (so the glider’s tail doesn’t get caught). Branches, ropes and ladders also offer opportunities for climbing, playing and training. Place a nest box near the top of the enclosure so your glider can feel safe and sleep.

The latch on the cage door should be very secure as gliders are smart and have been known to learn how to open simple latches.

Keep the cage out of direct sunlight and drafts, and maintain a room temperature between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Specific substrate requirements

Line the bottom of the sugar glider cage with newspaper or another product made from recycled paper that is non-toxic if ingested. Avoid cedar shavings, which have a strong odor that can cause respiratory irritation in small animals. Replace the paper and clean surfaces and toys in the cage with soap and water at least once a week. Most of the diseases that affect sugar gliders are due to unsanitary living conditions.

What do sugar gliders eat and drink?

Sugar gliders have fairly strict dietary requirements. In the wild, a sugar glider’s diet includes nectar and sap from trees. But sugar gliders are omnivores, meaning they eat plants and animals. In addition to nectar and sap, they also consume fruits, insects and even small birds or rodents.

For pet sugar gliders, variations on the homemade Bourbon’s Modified Leadbeater (BML) diet are very popular. Honey, calcium powder and baby food are commonly used in these recipes to give your glider the right nutrition. Fresh fruits and vegetables should be provided in moderation, less than 10 percent of the total diet, as many lack essential vitamins, minerals and protein and are mostly water. Many owners provide morning and evening meals in small feeding bowls. But some sugar gliders tend to graze rather than eat a full meal at a time. So don’t worry if you see leftovers, but dispose of leftovers before the next meal so they don’t spoil.

Consult your veterinarian on the best amount to feed your paraglider as this can vary based on age, size and activity level. And always keep a water bowl or bottle in the cage, which should be refreshed at least daily.

Common Health Problems

Sugar gliders are very susceptible to stress from being awakened and taken out of their cages during the day. They have even been known to self-mutilate (bite and scratch) under stressful conditions. Housing sugar gliders that don’t get along or providing an enclosure that’s too small are two major stressors for these small, delicate creatures. If you notice signs of self-mutilation, such as B. Missing patches of fur, contact your veterinarian immediately. They can help diagnose the problem and suggest lifestyle changes.

Sugar gliders are also susceptible to some bacterial and parasitic infections. For example, Giardia, a protozoan parasite, can cause dehydration, lethargy, and weight loss. Most bacterial and parasitic infections occur due to underwashed fruits and vegetables, so be sure to thoroughly clean any food you feed your sugar glider.

In addition, sugar gliders have many problems due to malnutrition. A malnourished paraglider may be thin and lethargic with pale gums. Low calcium and blood sugar levels are often the culprits. This often leads to anemia and can lead to more serious health problems such as: B. Kidney, liver and metabolic bone diseases (which can cause bone fractures).

Additionally, dental disease is quite common in sugar gliders due to their sugary diet. If your glider has dental problems, you may notice that it eats less or has a bad odor coming from its mouth. A teeth cleaning at your vet’s is probably in order, and your vet can advise on oral hygiene tips.

exercise

Sugar gliders are very active animals, which is one of the reasons they need such a large enclosure. You’ll need branches and ropes and anything else that’s safe for climbing, including wheels and balls.

personal hygiene

Spill

Sugar Gliders lose minimally, if at all. Their coat is nothing to worry about unless it looks unkempt, in which case a visit to the vet would be in order.

bathing/care

Sugar gliders are excellent groomers, and you don’t need to bathe yours. They literally bathe themselves by spitting on their hands.

size info

Adult sugar gliders are 5 to 8 inches long, not including their tails, and they weigh between 2 and 5 ounces.

Train your sugar glider

house training

Sugar gliders are generally not potty-trainable, but otherwise they make pretty clean pets. Once you’ve got her enclosure set up, it’s pretty easy to maintain. Their greatest care needs are maintaining a balanced diet and socialization.

The Spruce / Katharinenlied

Pros and Cons of Keeping a Sugar Glider as a Pet

Sugar gliders are adorable, but are they the right pet for you? On the plus side, they’re fun and active, and live longer than other pocket-type pets. They are also clean and rarely bite. However, for cons, you need more than one sugar glider to meet your social needs; they’re nocturnal, so it’s not that much fun during the day; and they really don’t interact well with other pets you might have.

Purchase of your Sugar Glider

Look for a reputable breeder or rescue organization to purchase a glider. A grower should have a license from the US Department of Agriculture. Avoid buying over the internet where you cannot interact with the animal before committing. And try to talk to other people who also got an animal from this seller. A breeder should also be able to provide you with your new pet’s lineage as well as their history so you can be assured that they are ethically bred and healthy.

The seller should be able to provide thorough information about the animal’s origin, health history, and temperament. Ask to visit the animal before bringing it home and look for warning signs such as lethargy, trouble moving, or abnormal droppings. Expect to pay between $100 and $500 on average; young gliders are more expensive.

reproduction/breeding

The right breeder can teach you how to set up the cage for your glider and talk to you about nutritional and veterinary needs. They will also teach you how to handle your paraglider to ensure that neither you nor anyone in your family gets bitten.

Similar pets to the Sugar Glider

If you are interested in similar pets, check out:

Otherwise, check out other exotic animals that can be your new pet.

Sugar Gliders bonded to their humans are loyal for life! It is the ultimate trust between you and your paraglider. They come when called, follow you around and sometimes bring you gifts! This is one of the many reasons Sugar Gliders are popular companions. In order to achieve this level of confidence in your wing it is important that you are patient and attentive to your wing as you go through the binding process.

When you get your new gliders home:

Let them rest for 3-4 days to get used to their new environment. Remember that they have just left home and will be scared. Expect crabs. You can place a small piece of fabric with your scent in the cage while they settle into their new home. This allows the gliders to get used to your smell.

Binding is best in the morning and afternoon. Gliders are nocturnal and will want to play late in the evening and throughout the night. You can stay up at night watching them play in their cage, but don’t try to take them out of their cage at this time. Sometimes feeding treats to your gliders while they are awake will help the bonding process. Some people also do “tent time” in the evenings to get used to your gliders. Do not attempt these activities if your glider seems timid or fearful! If they tell you to back off, you may need to slow down your bonding process and just stick to the mornings until they’re more comfortable.

It’s good to keep your gliders’ cage in the most active room in the house so they get used to regular noises and voices. You will settle in very quickly and become part of your family.

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Morning and Afternoon: This is their “non-active time”. While they have no trouble staying awake during the day, they are much less energetic and usually prefer to sleep during this time. You can use a glue bag (left image) to carry your gliders around for gluing, or you can take out your sleep bag (with the gliders still inside) and place them on a flat surface. Carefully open your glider’s bag and let them see what’s going on around them. Don’t reach into it – your hand is big and scary and this could provoke a bite! Let the gliders get used to your voice and your presence. You can offer them some treats (live mealworms are great!). Do not take them out of the pouch unless they will come out on their own. As soon as they feel comfortable, they start eating. You can then slowly reach in with your palm and start stroking her back. Do this consistently every day for about 15-30 minutes. Move very slowly and speak very softly.

Evening and Night Time: Sugar Gliders are nocturnal. They thrive at night and that’s when they show their true personality! “Tent Time” is the best way to connect with them in the evenings and nights. The only things you need are: a tent, toys, treats and your gliders! They want to sit on the floor with toys and treats. Your gliders start exploring and checking things out. They can come at you or try to climb on you. Use toys and treats to interact with your gliders without trying to hold or pick them up. Wiggle a feather in front of them and watch them pounce like a cat! Tie a strip of fleece to the tip of your finger and wiggle the fabric. Gliders love to play with plastic cookie cutters, wiffle balls, bird toys, plastic bracelets… You can even use a drinking straw that has been crimped with a pencil sharpener! Use your imagination! Finding out what you both like to play with is part of the fun!

If you don’t have a tent, make sure you block all possible exits from the room and make sure you block any furniture they can get into.

Teaching your paraglider to ride on your shoulders

As your gliders become more comfortable with you, you can teach them to ride on your shoulders. Pick it up and let it roll up to your shoulders. The first few times you do this, keep your hand on them and pet them while they’re on your shoulders. Keep walking across the room. Gliders generally don’t jump when you’re moving. So the best place to stop is in front of their cage! Leave the door open so you can usher them inside. After a successful round, leave your arm in the cage’s open door to start again! You’ll want to get back on your arm for another journey through space. This is how you teach him to come to you!

Bite: Tips & Tricks

Never put your fingers to their mouth or face. Never touch them from the front. With fingers close together, treat them like a mitten. If you pick them up from the sides instead of grabbing them from the top, you won’t come across as a threat and you should never develop a bad habit. Keep your fingers away from their mouths so they don’t bite out of fear! If you allow them to bite in the beginning, they will develop a very bad habit. You need to change the way you try to handle the paraglider to prevent them from thinking it’s okay in the future. If your paraglider bites you, tell them “NO” in a loud, breathy voice. Don’t blow in their faces.

Any frightened glider can bite. One helpful trick is to keep your mouth busy with tasty treats. You can also dip your finger in vanilla or fruit flavored yogurt, palm up, slowly approach the slider with your finger below the level of his head. If they try to bite, they’ll get a mouthful of yogurt and start licking you instead. This will teach your glider that your approach is always positive.

Remember to always be gentle. You want to discourage them, but never scare them. Never perform negative actions with your paraglider or they will associate something bad when you are around. Try to make all interactions positive, even if your screen is a bit negative. Positive reinforcement encourages a positive bond.

Can gliders be potty trained?

When you first wake up, you go to the bathroom. Gliders are no different! They tend to be “on the go”. You should be prepared for minor accidents, but some you can prevent. One option is to put them on top of their cage when you first pull them out. A slight lift of the tail encourages release. You can also place them over a sink or trash can when you first take them out. Don’t forget to give them a treat every time they release themselves in the right spot. Giving them a treat every time will encourage them to potter in the right place every time.

My gliders are still afraid of me

Please remember that all sugar gliders are different. Some bond faster than others and some need more patience. You should never rush the bonding process. It is a matter of trust between man and glider. Although the information above will be very helpful, there are a few things to keep in mind:

Age is not important. It’s a matter of personality. All Sugar Gliders have different personalities, and therefore the binding is different on each glider.

It’s a matter of personality. All Sugar Gliders have different personalities, and therefore the binding is different on each glider. No glider pilot should live alone. Always keep them in pairs or more. This will make bonding with people a lot easier when they have another friend to communicate with and help them feel safe!

Always keep them in pairs or more. This will make bonding with people a lot easier when they have another friend to communicate with and help them feel safe! Never chase them around the cage for any reason. This will only scare her and hinder your bonding process. If you need to take them out, wait for them to go into their bag so you can remove the gliders in their bag.

This will only scare her and hinder your bonding process. If you need to take them out, wait for them to go into their bag so you can remove the gliders in their bag. When children are handling the gliders, remind them to be quiet and not to make sudden movements!

, remind them to be calm and not to make sudden movements! Never allow them to bite you, even if it’s a nibble. Always discourage this behavior and redirect their attention.

, even if it’s a snack. Always discourage this behavior and redirect their attention. Patience is very important. Some gliders take months to warm up! There may also be factors in the home that make your gliders uncomfortable that you may need to consider. Some gliders respond poorly to candles or strong scents in their room. Make sure the cage is kept away from a window or bright sunlight. Keep other pets from hanging out in their cage and bothering your gliders. Try to think of everything that might bother her!

As always, The Pet Glider is here to help with any questions you may have. Do not hesitate to contact us!