Border Terrier Hand Stripping Near Me? Best 47 Answer

When it comes to keeping your dog’s skin and coat healthy, the best thing you can do is groom them regularly. It’s kind of obvious, but it’s true. For some dogs, regular grooming means little more than a few brushings per week. However, for other dogs, grooming is much more complicated and tiring. Some dogs have a coat that requires a special grooming method called hand stripping. This is a complicated process, and one that not necessarily every pet owner can master (hey, that’s what professional groomers are for, right?). So what is hand stripping? Can you do it yourself if your dog needs it? Spoiler alert: Of course, with the right preparation and training, this is possible. All answers are below. So stay on this page and keep scrolling to learn more.

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Handstripping is a type of grooming method that dog owners use to remove excess hair from their dog’s coat. The most common method of dog grooming is clipping. This method uses electric clippers to trim or shave the top layer of hair on a dog’s coat. The difference between shearing and hand stripping is that hand stripping is not just done by hand, it also removes the fur from the root (not just the top layer) to allow a new coat to grow in. Each time you clip a dog’s coat, instead of pulling the coat off by hand, you’re only removing the top layer of dead coat, rather than pulling it away from the roots. As a result, the fur can dull in texture and color with each clipping, which is why many people find hand stripping preferable. Is it an ideal solution for every dog? Of course not, it always depends on the dog and the coat. For some dogs it is not only the best solution, but also the only one.

What Dog Breeds Need Hand Stripping?

When it comes to hand stripping, coat type matters more than dog breed. Of course, certain dog breeds have specific types of coats, so you can obviously identify some breeds that need to be hand-stripped based on their breed alone. That’s just not a universal truth. The type of fur that must be hand-stripped produces two types of hair: the undercoat (which is soft and dense) and the topcoat (which is longer and wiry in texture). Hand stripping involves removing the dead hair from the top coat by pulling it out by the roots, rather than simply cutting it off. By removing the hair completely, you make room for the new coat to grow in. Dogs with wiry coats go through a specific growth cycle in which the hair gets thicker and darker as it grows. If you do not remove the dead hair from the top coat, it will negatively affect the overall appearance of the coat. This is why this process is so important for dogs that have this very specific coat style that is difficult to work with.

Related: Understanding Your Dog’s Special Grooming Needs

Some of the breeds that have a coat that needs to be hand-stripped include (but are not limited to):

Tips for hand stripping your dog’s fur

Hand stripping a dog’s coat can be tricky if you don’t know how to do it. So before attempting it yourself, it is recommended that you have a professional groomer show you the correct method. To hand strip your dog’s coat, you should place him on a stable surface (like a counter or grooming table). It can also help if you have someone to hold your dog in place if he’s nervous about being high up. Take a few strands of hair and grasp them between your thumb and forefinger, then gently pull in the direction of hair growth to remove the hair. When your dog’s fur is ready to be stripped, the hair will come out easily and it will not cause your dog any pain. While literally pulling your dog’s hair out may seem strange and you may worry about causing him distress, the process is completely natural and painless provided it’s done at the right time. For example, you may need to strip your dog’s coat more frequently in the summer than in the winter, and it may be best to strip it in stages over a period of weeks rather than all at once. A lot of this depends on your specific dog and their specific coat. There are few hard and fast rules here, so you need to monitor his coat and act accordingly.

Some additional information and helpful tips on hand stripping

When it comes to hand stripping, pet owners have many questions at first, especially if they are new to this type of grooming and are hoping to do it themselves rather than simply going to a groomer to do the job. We get it. This can all seem a little intimidating. There are good reasons for it. Hand stripping needs to be handled with care to be effective. However, if you know what you’re doing and what to expect, it doesn’t have to be a scary task. It’s important to have questions and concerns. So we’re here to ease your concerns and provide some answers.

For example, one of the most frequently asked questions about hand stripping is how often it needs to be done to keep a dog’s coat nice and healthy. In general, you can hand strip your dog’s coat every four to six weeks, but if your pet’s coat is a rather slow grower, you can probably wait up to eight weeks before hand stripping again. It all depends on the dog and its coat. Essentially you want to give the coat enough time to grow back and you want to grow in the layers so they are even. While this may sound difficult to identify, after a few rounds, you’ll pretty easily notice when your dog’s coat is ready for another round of hand stripping.

Other people ask if they should bathe their dogs before hand stripping their fur. Simply put, it’s not a good idea to bathe your pooch before hand undressing. The bath will soften your pet’s skin and fur, and when that happens, the fur will become more difficult to remove by hand. Also, it will make your poor dog uncomfortable. You want the hair to be as dry and brittle as possible before you pull it off by hand. This will make the process easier for you and less uncomfortable for your dog.

If you want his coat to be on the shorter side, you can shear or trim the coat further down after hand-grooming your dog. However, some grooming experts don’t bother with this step because it could end up changing the flow and texture of the pet’s coat, making it harder for the coat to repel things like water and dirt. It’s probably healthiest to let the hair grow naturally, but some people are more interested in styling their dog than grooming. In this case cut away. Do this with caution.

Another question that is often asked when it comes to hand stripping a dog’s coat relates to the steps involved. In general, handstripping can be divided into three different sections. The first section would be the dog’s jaw line, ears, cheeks, head and neck area. The cut section would be the sides and back of the dog. Finally, the third section would be the legs, eyebrows, and beard. Sometimes it may be easier for you and your dog to split the hand stripping process into three separate sessions that focus on each of these three separate sections. Other times, it might be best to do it all in one epic hand-stripping session. Either way, it’s best to break the job down into these three separate sections to make the process a little easier and more organized.

Remember that proper hand stripping involves pulling the hair out in the direction of growth. If you hand pull a wire-coated dog, it will have exposed hair follicles that will allow the hair to come out surprisingly easily. It’s also worth noting that hand stripping can be time-consuming, not only while you’re learning how to do it, but once you get the hang of the routine. For this reason, rather than doing it all yourself at home, you may choose to have your dog hand stripped by a professional groomer who has plenty of experience and who will make the grooming session as quick and convenient for you as possible can doggy. However, when it comes to deciding whether you want to take a DIY approach to handstriping, it’s really up to you and your dog.

Are you ready to try handstripping? just be patient

Grooming is an integral part of being a dog owner and a task that can be challenging with certain breeds. With a little training, you can take care of most of your dog’s hand stripping needs yourself to keep him looking and feeling his best. This is an important responsibility as a dog owner, but also a tricky process. There’s no shame in leaving this care in the hands of a professional when it seems too daunting. However, if you’re looking to hand strip your dog’s coat yourself, hopefully we’ve demystified the process to be less intimidating.

Do you have any tips for hand stripping your dog at home? If so, we’d love to hear them. Please leave your tips in the comments below.

If you’ve ever owned a terrier or wire-coated breed, then you’ve probably heard a little about hand stripping.

But for people outside of these races, hand stripping might seem like a strange and even uncomfortable practice. I can assure you that hand stripping is not only painless, it benefits the dog greatly.

Let me explain what we do, why it’s beneficial, and how professionals actually do it.

What is hand stripping?

Hand stripping involves manually removing dead hair from the follicle to encourage new hair growth with a naturally thick and bristly texture.

Why is that important? In summary:

By manually removing hair from the skin, you help maintain the correct coat texture and color. This is ideal for working breeds like terriers.

If we were to cut hair (with clippers or scissors) it would likely damage the fur permanently (more on that later).

Remember that this process will not cause any pain or discomfort if done properly.

Wiry breeds go through a cycle where the hair reaches a maximum length and is ready to be pulled. In the past, working terriers were naturally groomed by running through bushes, hunting, tunneling, or just going about their day.

Without these daily activities, the follicles have trouble shedding hair, causing the coat to overgrow (also known as “blown out” coat).

At this point, the hair is easily removed from the follicle.

Grooming coordinates with this cycle to manually remove dead and loose hair while at the same time shaping the coat to look more stylish.

The average pet only needs to be stripped every 3 to 6 months, but more frequent brushing will make for a more desirable “show coat.” Show dogs are plucked weekly, often several days a week.

What Dogs Are Hand Stripped?

Any dog ​​with a wiry coat that is easy to remove can be hand stripped. This includes most terrier breeds, as well as some sporting or gun dog breeds. Many southern area mixed terrier dogs also have a “peelable” coat.

Here some examples:

Airdale Terrier

Wirefox terrier

wirehaired dachshund

schnauzer

border terrier

West Highland White Terriers

Irish wolfhounds

Why can’t we use hair clippers?

Using a clipper on a wire sheath will cause long-term or permanent damage!

When stripping, the hair is completely removed from the skin. By removing individual hairs, we stimulate the hair root and encourage new, thick, wiry hairs to take their place.

Cutting the hair (with clippers or scissors) does not remove the root, and the hair often does not grow back properly.

Cut (not pulled) hair:

Regrow thin and silky, creating a nightmare of tangles and tangles.

Will be difficult to clean and will retain bad odors.

Colors appear diluted or faded, or go completely white.

The end result of clipping hair (rather than stripping it) completely changes the look and feel of your dog and makes their coat much more difficult to groom.

Why do some dogs have a wire coat?

The history of wire coats can be traced back to the origins of the terrier breed.

The word “terrier” comes from the old French name Chien Terrier – which translates to “earth dog” – and is indicative of its purpose rather than the breed itself. These dogs should tunnel in search of vermin.

Terrier dogs helped hunters and farmers in the 19th century in their search for rabbits, badgers, rats and other small vermin. They were later bred with dogs and other breeds to improve their hunting skills.

The fitted, coarse coat offers natural protection during hunting and tunneling, as well as:

A protective layer against pest bites.

Protection from rough undergrowth, ridges and branches.

Dust, dirt and water fall off a wire sheath easily.

Long eyebrows protect the terrier’s eyes from dirt and bites while they are “in the hole”.

stages of hair growth

Similar to human hair, dog hair goes through a continuous growth and shedding cycle.

Anagen is the initial growth phase for new hair. The hair grows continuously from the roots. During this phase, hair growth can range from 5 days to 7 years.

Catagen is the transition phase when hair reaches its full length and stops growing.

Telogen is the dormant phase where hair rests in the root while new hair grows underneath. The old hair will eventually be ready to be shed, or in this case, hand stripped.

Each phase can be affected by age, diet (or dietary changes), stress, and overall health.

Handstripping is the removal of hair after the telogen phase. Pulling hairs triggers a response in the follicle that encourages new hairs to grow – while retaining their original coarse texture.

Like Groomer’s Hand Strip

Your dog has two layers of fur – an undercoat (the soft, insulating bottom layer) and a coarse, protective outer layer called a guard coat or top coat.

Each individual hair follicle contains several hairs from both the undercoat and the protective coat.

When we remove the undercoat, we encourage more top coat to take its place.

Again, the goal is to promote a thick and structured coat called a jacket. At the same time, we shape the coat into our desired style.

As the name suggests, handstripping can be done with just your hands. However, tools will make the job a little easier (especially for newcomers).

In our Handstripping Masterclass, we dive deeper into the best tools for each breed.

stripping knife

Don’t let the name of the wire stripper confuse you – this knife is not designed for cutting.

The duller your knife, the better. They’re simply a blunt-toothed comb that allows groomers to get a better grip (before stripping knives were widespread, groomers often used a blunt butter knife).

The groomer grasps the hair between the flat side of the blade and the thumb, then gently pulls it in the direction of growth. The teeth help guide the fur into your finger and onto the face of the blade.

Knives come in 4 main varieties:

Extra Fine (or Detail) – For head, ears, face

Fine – Head, Neck, Finish all areas

Medium – body, legs

Coarse – bodied, large breeds

My personal set of wire strippers, with padding on the handles.

Each blade is a comb with teeth of different densities. A coarse comb will let more hair through untouched, while an “extra fine” comb will remove most of the hair.

Finer blades are used for finer detail work (e.g. the face), while coarser blades are used for the body or large breeds.

Unfortunately, there is no one size fits all – you need all four knives to complete a full groom. However, there is an alternative method using a whetstone (which we will discuss later).

Remember: Wire strippers are never intended to cut hair and are therefore fairly blunt. If your knife cuts into hair, manual blunting on a rough surface is recommended.

I personally have a chalk and sand filled rug sample from a hardware store that I’ll be rubbing my knives on. Others cut open a cardboard box before blunting it with their knives. Never use a fresh knife on a dog.

mining stones

A whetstone, a metallic stone, and a pumice stone

Stripping stones are a great all in one tool that can card and strip. Their rough surface allows hairs to be gripped without cutting or digging into the skin.

If you are just starting out, I recommend using a stone as it can be used for multiple tasks – such as: B. carding and for finer details such as face or neck.

Bonus tip: If the rock is too big for your hands, try cutting it in half.

carding knife

Carding knives come in many shapes and sizes, and many stripping knives can be used for carding by switching from a drawing to a raking technique.

We “card” as the very first step in the process to remove excess undercoat and allow for easier manual stripping with our stripping knives.

undercoat rake

For breeds with thicker coats, an undercoat rake with blades can be helpful. But it’s not a suitable replacement for a carding knife or stripping stone.

I only recommend these if you have a very thick haired large breed.

I often use an undercoat rake on Airedales, Lakelands and wire foxes. Some breeds may not need to have their undercoat removed (Dachshunds, for example, don’t typically have as much undercoat as their leggy terrier counterparts).

Hand Stripping Techniques

raking/carding

This is usually the first step in the process (if necessary). Carding or raking is the removal of undercoat with a knife, pumice stone, or undercoat rake. This also encourages the jacket to lay flat, allowing for easier hand peeling in the next step.

Remember, just because we’re using a carding knife doesn’t always mean we’re actually carding. Carding is the removal of the undercoat (with whatever tool we feel is necessary at this point).

Pluck

Plucking is essentially stripping with your hands. Groomers hold the skin tight and pull a few hairs at a time with their fingertips. This is a slow and methodical process that requires a high level of skill.

stripping

Wire stripping uses a hand stripping tool. We use an assortment of hand held wire strippers for different parts of the body. Always pull in the direction of the grain.

Remember: wire strippers don’t actually cut—they’re there to get a tight grip. Always make sure your knives are blunt beforehand.

roll

Rolling is a method of removing the undercoat by folding the skin into a roll to reveal long undercoat hairs. The long hair is then removed by stripping or plucking.

patterns and styles

Think of hand stripping as the process and sculpting and styling as the desired end result.

Most breeds have their own unique grooming style. This is especially important if you are hand stripping for the show ring.

Wire-haired dachshunds, for example, should have a slim body and look almost like a smooth-haired dachshund, but with a prominent beard and eyebrows. (Learn more about hand stripping wire-haired dachshunds)

While the Irish Wolfhound has a “rustic” appearance that almost seems untidy.

At the beginning of this process, it’s important to study each breed and their unique grooming requirements.

I am showing a fully hand stripped Wirehaired Dachshund

security

Hand stripping is best left to the professionals.

This process, if done incorrectly, can be very uncomfortable for your dog. Common mistakes include stripping too short, removing far too much fur, or using the wrong technique or tools.

If you are causing large bald patches with redness, bumps, or a rash, STOP immediately.

Bathe

A newly stripped dog will have open follicles and very sensitive skin for several days. Bathing immediately afterwards must be done with great care.

The truth about bathing

Bathing is a hot topic in the hand stripping world right now.

Many multi-generational handlers never bathe their dog jackets, preferring to quickly wipe them down with water and Listerine.

Newer groomers are learning more and more about skin science and how bathing actually helps the dog’s skin.

That being said, bathing a bare dog should be done with extreme caution!

Bathing striped dogs can easily introduce an infection. Therefore I always recommend you:

Use cool water and a very gentle shampoo (Artero “Relax” is specially made for stripped dogs).

Make sure your bottles/cups/containers are cleaned and sanitized.

Your towel must be brand new or freshly laundered.

When in doubt, bathe 2-3 weeks before stripping and wait a week after stripping to bathe your dog.

Important terms to remember

Here are a few terms you’re likely to hear from hand-stripping groomers:

Jacket refers to the coarse outer coat, or guard hair, of your wire-coated breed.

Carding is the first stage of manual stripping, where we remove excess undercoat with a “carding knife”. This allows the jacket to lie flat, allowing for easier hand peeling.

Rollers – Take the skin and form a roller so that the longest hairs can be plucked quickly and easily without pulling on the shorter underlayers.

Plucking is hand stripping without the aid of tools (just your hands). This is only done by experienced caregivers.

Jammies refers to a dog that is “naked” or stripped very short to the undercoat.

In the Rough is a dog with a fully grown and unkempt coat.

Staging removes different sections of the dog at different times to help you achieve the desired result. For example: The longest parts of the coat are pulled first and left for 6-8 weeks to make the dog perfect for a dog show. Dogs are smoothed out like baby skin in these areas.

Molding is the process of hand stripping to achieve a specific style or “shape”.

Furnishings are the long hair on the legs, head, and abdomen.

Top Coat / Guard Coat – The coarse layer of the coat.

Undercoat – The softer and thicker undercoat of the coat.

Here’s how to start hand stripping

Hand stripping can be a tricky process; There are hundreds of tools out there, each breed has a different pattern and it’s easy to take off too much and leave holes in the fur.

Above all, you don’t want to make your dog uncomfortable.

That’s more than I can explain in a single article. In our Hand Stripping Masterclass we go into the finer details.

Our Masterclass is a video course for snowcats of all levels (even absolute beginners) and covers:

All “Do’s and Don’ts”

The best tools for the job

The entire hand stripping process is explained in detail

Step by step how I hand patrol dogs from start to finish

How I Made Award Winning Grooms In A Short Time

If you are interested in attending the next online class intake, you can find out more here.

What is hand stripping?

Handstripping is a grooming process in which dead hair is removed from the coat by hand rather than clipping to keep the coat clean and healthy. Usually done twice a year in spring and fall, it speeds up the natural process of growth and shedding.

True hand stripping is exactly that – the groomer pulls the outer guard hairs out of the coat entirely by hand when the coat is blow-dried. However, it’s common to use tools like wire strippers and stones to aid in the process.

What Dog Breeds Can Be Hand Stripped?

Dogs with wiry coats usually need to be hand-stripped to meet the breed standard. This includes most of the Terrier group. Other breeds that require hand stripping include:

schnauzer

Cocker Spaniels

Irish wolfhounds

Wire Fox Terrier

Wirehaired pointers

wire-haired dachshund

border terrier

Quick tips for hand stripping

There are a number of methods to make hand stripping easier and more effective:

Pull in the direction of hair growth

Support the skin with gentle pressure

Pluck only the longer hairs, which are usually around 2-5 cm long

Try finger cots or Chalk Power to improve grip

Work with an even rhythm and only remove a few hairs at a time

Don’t be too clumsy when using a wire stripper – use it to help pull the hair instead of cutting the hair

Hand stripping is not painful when done properly, and many dogs actually enjoy it.

About hair growth in wiry coats

There are 4 stages to wire hair growth,

Anagen Phase: This is when the hair follicles enter the GROWTH PHASE.

Catagen Phase: This is the TRANSITIONAL PHASE when the hair stops growing and the outer root sheath adheres to the hair.

Telogen Phase: The RESTING PHASE when hair is still and not growing or falling out.

Exogenous Phase: The FALLOUT PHASE, when the hair falls out and a new hair grows

Once the hair is in the telogen phase, the dog is ready to be hand pulled as the root follicle detaches from the dermal papilla, allowing the hair to be pulled without causing damage or stress to the dog.

WHY IS HANDSTRIPPING THE BEST METHOD FOR WIRE HAIRED DOGS?

Hand stripping targets the older hairs that are in the exogenous growth phase. These older, dull hairs are easily pulled out, leaving room for new, stronger hair to grow through. This ensures the coat has a fuller, shinier texture and more vibrant color

It’s recommended to trim instead of clipping or scissors because these methods, instead of removing old hair, simply trim the old dull hair. Fresh new hair has no room to grow through. More importantly, by trimming your wiry dog’s coat, you can prevent the coat from growing properly and may not be able to be hand-grazed in the future.

WHAT IS REQUIRED TO GROOM A WIRED COAT AT HOME?

There are a number of supplies that are essential to keeping any wiry dog ​​breed at home in between hand stripping appointments. These include: –

WIRY BREED SHAMPOO

It’s important not to bathe a wiry coat too often as this can cause the hair to dry out. When bathing your dog, it’s important that you use a shampoo specifically formulated for wiry breeds due to the unique composition of their coat. If your dog is dirty, it pays to give him a bath and towel before grooming to make the job easier.

Wiry coat breeds also have different skin than many other breeds, which brings with it a variety of separate grooming considerations, all of which should be addressed with wiry breed shampoos. There are a number of brands out there, here at The Pet Retreat we use Wildwash shampoos all made from natural ingredients.

DETANGLE COMB

It’s common for wiry dog ​​coats to get tangled, especially in hard-to-reach places like the armpits. It’s always worth having a detangling comb handy for this. These special grooming tools help de-mat the coat. When using the comb, be gentle and focus on the ends of the hair first, working your way down and closer to the skin. Matted hair can hurt a dog when pulled, so take your time to cause as little stress as possible.

Slicker brush

Although a wiry dog ​​breed doesn’t need the same daily grooming routine as many long-haired breeds, it’s still important that you maintain a regular brushing routine. We recommend a smoother brush for this. These consist of thin wires angled away from the pet’s skin. They help degrease the coat and remove any debris or dead hair that may be resting on the skin. For wiry breed dogs, we recommend using a slicker brush with fine bristles.

These are three of the most common questions I get when a customer hears the word handstripping. First you need to consider what is best for my pet’s skin and coat. Each breed has different grooming requirements depending on their hair type. Regardless of the breed of dog, regular grooming is important for hair health. But “normal” is different for every breed. For example, a poodle may need grooming every week to keep them soft, clean, and tangle-free. But grooming is a bit more complicated for some dogs, as they have a wirier coat that requires a technique called hand stripping, rather than traditional grooming with clippers and scissors.

How does it work?

Hand stripping is a unique method of removing excess hair or undercoat from your dog’s coat, rather than the usual grooming that involves trimming or clipping the top layer of hair on a dog’s coat. As the name suggests, hand stripping is done by holding the hair and pulling by the root to allow a new coat to grow. The groomer grabs the last layer of undercoat and pulls, to make it easier to pull, uses a hand-held “knife” stripper, which he holds with his index finger and palm. Don’t let the tool’s name put you off though, it’s more like a tiny metal lice comb on the end of a wooden stick. There is a sharper surface between the teeth of the comb that helps grip the dead hair. This tool also controls the length of the wiry hairs we want to leave.

Wirehaired breeds are at their healthiest when the wirehair is removed, leaving only the soft coat. But when you clip a wirehaired dog’s coat instead of hand-stripping it, you’re not only removing the top layer of dead coat instead of removing it, but the coat can change and change in texture and color with each clipping over time become dull another color. On the other hand, hand stripping, if done regularly, will keep the wire jacket strong and shiny.

Is it painful?

The idea of ​​hair pulling doesn’t sound painless at all, does it? But if done correctly, the dog will not feel any pain. The soft, fluffy hair (only wirehaired breeds) comes out very easily and the dogs are not bothered by it. The very first time a dog pulls their hands it can feel awkward just because he/she is not used to the feeling. We recommend that you start small the first time and do only a little hand stripping. Each successive grooming, you can work up to the normal amount to let them adjust and have a comfortable experience. If anything, they’ll just be extra tired by the end of their appointment because it’s such a time-consuming process.

Which breeds require hand stripping?

When it comes to hand stripping, coat type matters more than dog breed. Of course, certain dog breeds are more likely to have wiry coats, so you can tell they need to be hand stripped. Some examples of these breeds are Bother Terriers, Schnauzers, Airedales, Carrier Terriers and more. The type of coat that requires hand stripping produces two types of hair – the undercoat is soft, with thin hair fibers and a dense volume, while the top coat is longer, with thick hair fibers and wiry. By completely removing the softer undercoat hairs instead of trimming them, you make room for the new coat to grow into it. Dogs with wiry coats go through a specific growth cycle in which the hair gets thicker and darker as it grows – if you don’t remove the dead hair from the top coat as this will negatively affect the overall appearance of the coat.

Why is hand stripping so expensive?

Hand stripping is a delicate process and approximately 6 times longer than a normal grooming appointment. You can use clippers and shave your pet’s back in 5 minutes while it easily takes 30 minutes to shave the same spot by hand. Your groomer will also need to give your dog breaks and take the time to pull their hair slowly and gently to avoid irritation or cuts that can result from rubbing or improperly grasping the coat with the hand scraping knife.

. Basically, hand stripping is an art form of grooming. Not many companies train their groomers in this, so if you find a groomer company that does it well, stick with them! Here at Pampered Tails, over half of our groomers have years of handstripping experience and take it very seriously.

What is hand stripping?

When hand stripping, the dead top coat is pulled out manually.

This allows the fresh fur to grow in. A dog’s hair follicle consists of a thick top coat and many soft undercoat hairs. The undercoat has a fluffier texture and a duller color – this is the fur that will form furballs all over your house! A process called carding removes this soft coat and is particularly necessary on the wire coat to keep the follicle from becoming clogged. The thick guard hair is what is pulled when the coat is hand stripped. This can be done by hand plucking or with a specially designed wire stripper. Please note that there are many groomers who claim to do hand stripping but misuse the tools or use tools like Coat Kings, these damage the top coat and are NOT what is considered traditional hand stripping. You may notice that the fur curls up in places where the hair has been cut.

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Does it hurt my dog?

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Many people believe that hand stripping is painful. Since the fur to be removed has already died, the process is not associated with any pain. If done incorrectly, especially if the wrong hair is pulled, this can be uncomfortable for the dog. A knowledgeable groomer will know how to properly introduce your dog to hand stripping. After getting used to the routine, most dogs will take a nap on the table.

What is hand stripping?

Hand shedding is the process of removing the excess dead top coat without clipping it, leaving room for the new coat to grow and giving a more natural look. It keeps the dog’s coat clean and healthy, leaving it strong and shiny. This is done by plucking/pulling the hair in the direction of growth. If the fur is not removed manually, the hair follicle can become clogged and matted, which can cause irritation for the dog or more advanced problems later.

The stripping of the mantle is generally divided into three sections with a transition area between the jacket (C) and the flats (A).

A dog’s hair follicle consists of a thick top coat and a soft undercoat. The hard, wiry coat growth cycle has 4 phases.

So the dog’s fur grows and only falls off when it has reached its maximum length. Hand stripping therefore naturally works alongside this cycle to remove the shedding hair and make room for a new coat. During the resting phase, stripping is best done by hand, as this is the stage when the hair follicle is easiest to remove without causing pain to the dog.

What is carding? Not to be confused with hand shedding, carding is the process of removing dead undercoat, while hand shedding removes the top coat. Removing this undercoat should be done before trimming or shearing, and tools like the Groom Professional Stripping Knife are great for this. After a full hand stripping, you should card the fur to remove any remaining loose hair.

What Dog Breeds Need Hand Stripping?

Hand stripping is more about coat type than breed. The texture of a dog’s coat can be affected by genetics, whether the dog has been spayed or spayed, the dog’s age, breed and coat type. For example, spaying and neutering can result in the growth of a softer coat, and while hand stripping is still possible, it might be worth switching to clipping.

It is usually the wirier coats that need to be hand stripped, so Terriers are often hand stripped, as are several Sporting, Hound and Toy breeds that are hand stripped for the show ring.

Why should I strip by hand instead of cutting?

The first thing to explain to your client is what is best for their dog’s skin and coat. Hand stripping is the proper way to groom a wirehaired breed. Hand stripping mimics how a dog’s coat would be groomed in the wild and maintains the correct breed appearance (something very difficult to mimic with clippers).

Hand stripping will:

Maintain a healthy coat and skin in wirehaired breeds by removing dead hair, which in turn prevents follicles from becoming clogged and irritated.

Preserve the beautiful rich color of the dog’s coat.

Make sure the dog’s coat still offers protection. The new protective layer will repel dirt and dust and also have waterproof properties.

excerpt becomes:

Change the texture and volume of the coat – Shearing often makes the dog’s coat soft and fluffy. It will not be waterproof and it will also need to be washed more frequently. A smooth coat can also become curly or wavy after clipping and become matted more easily. You may find that the coat sheds as the skin stops following the cycle to produce and assert new hair follicles.

Change the coat color – the color becomes duller and lighter

What tools do I need?

knife

Be careful not to touch the skin with the knife.

You don’t have to pull too hard as the loose hair will come loose.

Choose a knife with a comfortable grip to reduce wrist and hand strain

Make sure the blade is not sharp enough to cut the hair. To check the blade, examine the hairs you took out and if they are of different lengths and have roots, your knife is dull enough.

Stripping rocks/sticks

The stripping stones are like smooth pumice stones

These are great for newer barbers and allow them to learn to pull their hair without bending their wrist or breaking their fur.

Grasp the hair between the stone and your fingers.

Finger Condoms and Grips These will improve your ability to grasp and remove the dog’s hair.

Stripping Powder & Chalk The use of conditioning chalk/powder gives the hair more hold when stripping by hand.

tips and advice

Many K9 guards are grooming their own dogs because of the coronavirus shutdown. That’s why EquiGroomer wants to help make grooming your dog smarter, not harder, when it comes to carding or hand stripping your dog.

Our EquiGroomer grooming tools make the experience pain-free, injury-free and stress-free for you and your pet!

Order custom EquiGroomer tools or professional kits for your pet or supply store by calling 860-573-0604, emailing us, or visiting our website today!

Our EquiGroomer grooming tools make the experience pain-free, injury-free and stress-free for you and your pet!

Order custom EquiGroomer tools or professional kits for your pet or supply store by calling 860-573-0604, emailing us, or visiting our website today!

If you’re like many dog ​​owners, you’re suddenly faced with the task of grooming your dog while many grooming businesses remain locked down as non-essential businesses. With the arrival of spring and even summer temperatures, many are faced with the challenge of effectively grooming their dog’s undercoat and topcoat after the long winter. With more daylight hours and warmer temperatures, dog shedding is a major concern these days.

So does your dog need carding, hand stripping, both or neither? (Hint: They are not the same.)

Before you decide, let’s take a quick look at each process individually.

The dog’s undercoat: carding

Carding is a grooming term – and process – to describe the removal of a dog’s undercoat. The undercoat is the soft, short, downy, dense hair beneath the top (or outer) coat. The undercoat insulates and protects the skin in colder weather.

Carding is done with:

A fine-toothed blade;

A wire stripper;

An undercoat rake; or

Another shedding tool like EquiGroomer’s Gentle Shedding Blades (pictured below).

The hair removal tool grabs, pulls and removes (or thins) the dead or shed undercoat hair that may not fall out on its own in the warmer temperatures. Removing that thicker undercoat in winter also helps keep your dog comfortable in the heat — and stays cooler.

Carding is usually performed on dogs that:

have thick skin

Have a double coat for the topcoat to lay flatter and have a smoother appearance, including sporting breeds like Cocker Spaniels and Setters, including Goldens, Huskies, Collies and Pomeranians

Shorthaired ones include pugs, chihuahuas, labradors and others

The dog’s top coat: hand-stripping

In contrast, hand stripping a dog describes the removal of the outer coat (also known as the protective coat), which repels water, dust, and dirt while protecting the skin from injury. The protective coat consists of guard hairs, which are coarser in texture (i.e., wire hair) and thicker and longer.

Hand stripping removes the guard hairs from their follicles by pulling or plucking them out with your thumb and forefinger while leaving the undercoat untouched. When used correctly (gently and in the direction of hair growth) your dog will not feel any pain. Hand stripping is an alternative to trimming a dog’s guard hair with clippers or scissors.

Not all dogs need to be hand stripped, it depends more on the coat type than the dog breed. Also, some coats only need to be shed seasonally, while others need to be shed more frequently.

Hand stripping is commonly performed on the following breeds:

Airedale Terrier

Affenpinscher

Bouvier de Flanders

Cairn Terrier

Dandie Dinmont Terrier

German Wirehaired Pointer

Irish wolfhound

Jack Russel terrier

schnauzer

Scottish terrier

Wire Fox Terrier

wirehaired dachshund

Wirehaired Pointing Griffon

Advantages: Carding and hand stripping

Whether you – or your groomer – card or hand strip your dog, this type of grooming is vital to his overall healthy coat and skin! These nursing processes help:

Stimulate hair follicles for new healthy hair growth; and

Stimulate the production of natural and lubricating oils called sebum in the tiny sebaceous gland.

Remember that just like humans, their skin is your dog’s largest organ and its health and condition are critical to the overall well-being – and comfort – of your four-legged companion.

Additional reading:

Grooming smarter: what is carding?

The Honest Kitchen: Handstripping Basics

Dog.com: Dog Fur Facts

Dog Grooming Guide: Carding and combing a dog’s coat while grooming

PetGuide.com: Grooming Basics: All About Hand Stripping

Photo credit:

Kobus van Leer from Pixabay

Pixabay by Pexels

EquiGroomer

Steve Sewell from Pixabay

MSD Veterinary Handbook

Ida Damkilde from Pixabay

EquiGroomer

Your border terrier

Take care of your faithful companion

Border Terrier: what a unique breed!

Your dog is special! She is your best friend, companion and a source of unconditional love. Chances are you picked her because you like Borders and you expected her to have certain traits that would fit your lifestyle:

Very trainable and eager to please

Balanced; adapts to a variety of environments

Alert watchdog with ready bark

Agile, robust and muscular

Obedient and devoted

Great with children and other dogs: a real family pet

But no dog is perfect! You may also have noticed these properties:

Easily bored if not given anything to do, resulting in barking and chewing

Needs lots of activity and mental stimulation to avoid boredom

Considers cats and small animals as prey unless otherwise trained

likes to dig

The coat requires regular brushing and grooming

Detached from strangers

Is it all worth it? Of course! She is full of personality and you love her for it! She is a small and solid working terrier with a lively personality. Eager to please her human companions, she’s ready for a job!

Border Terriers are one of the oldest British terrier breeds. With a head shaped like an otter, these are working terriers bred to protect sheep from foxes and other predators. They are persistent in their hunt. She is a very active dog who is easy to train due to her willingness to please. Border Terriers are generally a healthy breed with an average lifespan of 13-15 years. Some may suffer from general health problems such as seizures and cataracts. Early diagnosis is the key to a long and happy life; Be sure to schedule routine check-ups.

Your Border Terrier’s Health

We know you want to take good care of your dog because you care so much about them. With that in mind, we’ve summarized the health concerns we’ll be discussing with you throughout your Border Terrier’s life. By knowing the health concerns specific to Border Terriers, we can create a preventative health plan to watch for and hopefully prevent some foreseeable risks.

Many diseases and health conditions are genetic, meaning they are related to your pet’s breed. There is a general consensus among canine geneticists and veterinarians that the conditions described herein have a significant incidence and/or impact in this breed. That doesn’t mean your dog will have these problems; it just means she’s at a higher risk than other dogs. We are going to detail the most common Border Terrier problems to give you an idea of ​​what could be in store for them in the future. Of course, we can’t cover all possibilities here, so always check with us if you notice any unusual signs or symptoms.

This guide contains general health information that is important for all dogs, as well as the most important genetics for Border Terriers. This information will work together with you and us to plan for your pet’s individual medical needs. At the end of the brochure we have also included a description of what you can do at home to keep your border looking and feeling good. You’ll know what to look out for and we’ll all feel better knowing we’re taking care of your pal in the best possible way.

General health information for your Border Terrier

dental disease

Dental disease is the most common chronic problem in pets, affecting 80% of all dogs by the age of two. And unfortunately, your Border Terrier has dental problems more often than other dogs. It starts with the formation of tartar on the teeth and progresses to infection of the gums and roots of the teeth. If we don’t prevent or treat dental disease, your pal will lose his teeth and risk damaging his kidneys, liver, heart and joints. In fact, your Border Terrier’s lifespan can be shortened by one to three years! We clean your dog’s teeth regularly and tell you what you can do at home to keep them sparkling white.

infections

Border terriers are susceptible to bacterial and viral infections — the same ones all dogs can get — like parvo, rabies, and distemper. Many of these infections can be prevented with vaccinations, which we recommend based on the diseases we see in our area, your age, and other factors.

obesity

Obesity can be a significant health concern in Border Terriers. It’s a serious disease that can cause or worsen joint problems, metabolic and digestive disorders, back pain, and heart disease. While it’s tempting to feed your girlfriend when she looks at you with those soulful eyes, you can “love her to death” with dog scraps and treats. Instead, hug her, brush her fur or teeth, play a game with her, or take her for a walk. She will feel better and so will you!

parasites

All kinds of worms and bugs can invade your Border’s body, inside and out. Anything from fleas and ticks to ear mites can infest their skin and ears. Hookworms, roundworms, heartworms, and whipworms can get into your system in a number of ways: by drinking unclean water, walking on contaminated soil, or being bitten by an infected mosquito. Some of these parasites can be transmitted to you or a family member and are a serious problem for everyone. For your four-legged friend, these parasites can cause pain, discomfort and even death, so it’s important that we test them regularly. We also recommend preventative medication to keep them healthy.

Spay or castration

One of the best things you can do for your Border Terrier is to have him spayed (neutered for male dogs). In women, this means we surgically remove the ovaries and usually the uterus, and in men, we surgically remove the testicles. Spaying or neutering reduces the likelihood of certain types of cancer and eliminates the possibility of your pet becoming pregnant or fathering unwanted puppies. Performing this surgery also gives us the opportunity while your pet is under anesthesia to identify and treat some of the diseases your dog is likely to develop. For example, if your pet needs a hip X-ray or an extracted puppy tooth, this would be a good time. This is convenient for you and easy for your friend. Routine blood tests before surgery also help us identify common issues that increase the risk of anesthesia or surgery, and help us take precautions. Don’t worry; We’ll discuss the specific issues we’ll be looking for when the time comes.

Genetic predisposition for Border Terriers

kneecap problems

Sometimes your Border Terrier’s kneecap (patella) can slip (known as patellar luxation). You may notice him running along and suddenly picking up a hind leg and hopping or hopping a few steps. He then kicks his leg sideways to get the kneecap back in place and is fine again. If the problem is mild and only affects one leg, your friend may not need much treatment aside from arthritis medication. If symptoms are severe, surgery may be needed to realign the kneecap so it stays in place.

knee ligament tear

The cranial cruciate ligament is one of the four rigid bands of tissue that hold each knee together. A cranial cruciate ligament tear is a common injury in active dogs, which includes your border. Surgical correction is usually done to stabilize the knee and prevent debilitating arthritis. Physiotherapy and multimodal pain management are necessary to achieve the best result. Maintaining the right weight, eating a quality diet, and avoiding twisting your knees too much (like playing Frisbee) are keys to avoiding this painful injury.

Hip and elbow dysplasia

Both hips and elbows are at risk for dysplasia, an inherited condition that causes joints to malfunction and lead to arthritis. Stiffness in your Border Terrier’s elbows or hips can become a problem for him, especially as he gets older. You may notice that he begins to become lame in his legs or has difficulty getting up from a lying position. We can treat the arthritis – the sooner the better – to minimize discomfort and pain. We take X-rays of your dog’s bones to detect problems as early as possible. Surgery is sometimes a good option in severe and life-limiting cases. Remember that overweight dogs can develop arthritis years earlier than normal weight dogs, causing undue pain and suffering!

Young Border Terriers can be prone to a painful degenerative hip condition called Legg-Calve-Perthes disease. The exact cause of this condition is not fully understood, but it is thought to be a problem with the blood supply to the hip, causing the femoral head (the top of the thigh bone) to become brittle and break easily. Ouch! It usually occurs between the ages of six and nine months, causes pain and lameness in one or both hind legs, and often requires surgery.

bone disease

Craniomandibular osteopathy (CMO) is a bizarre and transient bony overgrowth that develops in the jawbone or head, beginning in puppyhood. Often the abnormal bone thickening will go away on its own by 12 months of age, but affected Border Terriers may have difficulty chewing or swallowing, and experience pain when opening their mouth. Pain medication, a soft diet, and sometimes a feeding tube may be needed to help him through this growth phase. If your pal is young, we will screen him for this condition at his puppy visits.

diabetes

Diabetes mellitus is a fairly common condition in dogs. Any breed can be affected, but Borders have a higher than average incidence. Dogs with diabetes are unable to regulate sugar metabolism and require daily insulin injections. It is a serious condition that needs to be diagnosed and treated as early as possible. Symptoms include increased eating, drinking, and urination, and weight loss. If he shows signs, we will do lab tests to determine if he has the condition and discuss treatment options with you. Treatment requires a serious commitment of time and resources. Well regulated diabetic dogs today have the same life expectancy as other dogs.

thyroid problems

Border Terriers are prone to a common condition called hypothyroidism, in which the body does not produce enough thyroid hormone. Signs may include dry skin and coat, hair loss, susceptibility to other skin conditions, weight gain, anxiety, aggression, or other behavioral changes. We do a blood screening test annually to check for the disease. Treatment is usually simple: replacement hormones in a pill form.

heart disease

Some breeds like your Border Terrier can be born with a variety of heart defects. Most of these involve the structure of the heart’s dividing wall or vessels. They can also cause problems with the electrical signals that control the heartbeat or heart valve function. Due to the significant risk of heart disease, we pay special attention to his heart during every examination. Special tests are recommended if we hear a heart murmur or you notice any unusual symptoms, such as feeling tired easily, coughing, a bloated stomach or fainting.

Heart failure is one of the leading causes of death in Border Terriers in their golden years. Most heart disease in dogs is caused by a weakening of a valve. A heart valve slowly deforms so that it no longer closes tightly. Blood then flows back around this valve and puts a strain on the heart. Pets with heart valve disease (sometimes called mitral valve disease) have a heart murmur. If your dog has a heart murmur or physical signs that indicate heart problems, we’ll run tests to determine the severity of the disease. The same tests must be repeated at least every year to monitor the condition. If heart valve disease is diagnosed early, we may be able to prescribe medication that could add many years to his life. Veterinary dental care and fatty acid supplementation can help prevent heart disease, and weight management can help relieve symptoms.

Sometimes the sinus node, the part of the electrical system that signals the heart to beat, doesn’t work properly. When your Border Terrier suffers from this condition, known as sick sinus syndrome, they will have a very slow heart rate and may pass out during physical exertion. Mild cases can be treated with medication. If his symptoms are more severe, he may need more advanced treatment. We do a heart electrical activity test (ECG screen) every year and before anesthesia to give your friend the best care.

allergies

In humans, an allergy to pollen, mold or dust leads to sneezing and itchy eyes. In dogs, instead of sneezing, allergies cause itchy skin. We call this skin allergy “atopy” and Border Terriers often have it. Often the feet, abdomen, skin folds and ears are most affected. Symptoms typically begin between the ages of one and three years and can worsen from year to year. Licking the paws, rubbing the face and frequent ear infections are the most common signs. The good news is that there are many treatment options for this condition.

epilepsy

There are three types of seizures in dogs: reactive, secondary, and primary. Reactive seizures are caused by the brain’s response to a metabolic problem, such as low blood sugar, organ failure, or a toxin. Secondary seizures are the result of a brain tumor, stroke, or trauma. When no other cause can be found, the condition is called primary or idiopathic epilepsy. This problem is often an inherited condition that commonly affects Border Terriers. If your friend is prone to seizures, they usually start between the ages of six months and three years. A first diagnostic clarification can help to find the cause. Lifelong medication is usually required to keep seizures under control, with regular blood work required to monitor side effects and effectiveness. If your dog has a fit: Be careful not to injure yourself, but don’t try to control his mouth or tongue. It won’t help him and he might accidentally bite you! Pay attention to the duration of the seizure and call us or an emergency hospital.

spike disease

Canine epileptoid seizure syndrome is a condition that can affect Border Terriers. Not much is known about the condition other than that it is NOT a seizure and that it is inherited. The condition does not appear to be painful, and dogs usually remain alert and responsive during the spasms, which generally last a few seconds to several minutes. Research is ongoing, but no known cause or effective treatment has been found so far. Nutritional therapy and medication can help with symptoms, but affected dogs should not be used for breeding.

peripheral neuropathy

If your Border Terrier is affected by this rare inherited disorder of the nerves, he will begin to experience weakness, poor reflexes, loss of balance and a loud bark from around 8 weeks of age. Since young puppies can seem a little unsteady on their feet anyway, it’s easy to miss the early signs of the condition. Rather than improving as the puppy grows, the condition often worsens and leads to death within a few months. However, some dogs experience a partial reversal of the condition, which allows the dog to learn to walk again. There is no proven treatment for this nerve disorder, although some alternative medical therapies may help. Additionally, the right dog lover can greatly improve the quality of life for these dogs with the right tools.

Cataract

Cataracts are a common cause of blindness in older Border Terriers. We’ll note that the lenses in his eyes become more opaque – meaning they look cloudy instead of clear – as we examine him. Many dogs adapt well to the loss of their sight and get along well with each other. Surgery to remove cataracts and restore vision may also be an option.

blindness

Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) is an inherited condition in which the eyes are genetically programmed to go blind. Unfortunately, Border Terriers have this condition a little more often than other dogs. PRA is not painful, but it is not curable either. In dogs with the bad gene, early symptoms such as night blindness or dilated pupils usually begin around three to five years of age. A genetic test is available for this condition.

bleeding disorders

There are different types of inherited bleeding disorders that occur in dogs. Their severity ranges from very mild to very severe. Oftentimes, a pet may appear normal until serious injury occurs or surgery is performed, at which point severe bleeding may occur. Von Willebrand disease is a blood clotting disorder that is common in Border Terriers. We perform diagnostic tests for blood clotting time or a specific DNA blood test for Von Willebrand’s disease or other similar conditions to check for this problem before performing an operation.

kidney disease

Fanconi syndrome is a kidney disease in which vital blood nutrients leak into the urine. Because these nutrients are so important, affected Border Terriers may experience excessive urination and thirst, weight loss, and weakness from abnormal electrolyte levels. Symptoms usually appear between the ages of two and six years. The severity and course of the disease varies from dog to dog, some remain stable for years, others lapse into fatal kidney failure. Routine urine screening can help diagnose Fanconi syndrome in its early stages; Prompt treatment can significantly increase both your pet’s lifespan and quality of life.

underbite

Underbite (prognathism) affects Border Terriers more than other breeds. In this condition, the lower jaw protrudes further than the upper jaw. In most cases, no treatment is required, but chronic pain can result when the abnormally positioned teeth dig into the mouth. Extractions or orthodontic procedures may be required.

Caring for your Border Terrier at home

A lot of what you can do to keep your dog happy and healthy is common sense, just like it is for humans. Watch her diet, make sure she gets plenty of exercise, brush her teeth and coat regularly, and call us or a veterinary clinic if anything seems unusual (see “What to look out for” below). Be sure to follow our recommended check-up and vaccination schedule. At this point we will give her the necessary “check-ups” and test her for diseases and conditions that are common in Border Terriers. Another very important step in caring for your pet is getting pet health insurance. There will certainly be medical tests and procedures that she will need throughout her life and pet health insurance will help you cover those costs.

routine care, diet and exercise

Work routine grooming into your schedule to help your border live longer, stay healthier, and be happier throughout their life. We cannot stress enough the importance of a proper diet and exercise routine.

Supervise your pet like a toddler. Keep doors closed, tidy up behind you and cordon off rooms if necessary. This will keep her out of trouble and objects she shouldn’t put in her mouth.

Brush their coat as needed, at least weekly. Twice a year, their wiry double coat has to be uncovered.

Border Terriers often have serious problems with their teeth, so you need to brush them at least 3 times a week!

Clean their ears weekly, even as a puppy. Don’t worry – we’ll show you how!

She is a very smart dog with lots of energy so keep her mind and body active or she will get bored. That’s when the naughty stuff starts.

She is a very active dog who excels in earthdog, flyball, agility, and tracking competitions.

Border Terriers can have a high prey drive so she must be kept on a leash and a securely fenced yard is a must.

Keep your dog’s diet consistent and don’t feed his humans.

Feed them good quality food that is appropriate for their age.

Exercise your dog regularly, but don’t overdo it at first.

What to look out for

Any abnormal symptom can be a sign of a serious medical condition, or it can just be a minor or temporary problem. The most important thing is to know when and how urgently to seek veterinary help. Many diseases in dogs cause a distinctive combination of symptoms that together can be a clear signal that your Border Terrier needs help.

Office calls

Call us for an appointment if you notice any of these signs:

Change in appetite or water consumption

Tartar build-up, bad breath, red gums, or broken teeth

Itchy skin (scratching, chewing or licking), hair loss

Lethargy, mental fatigue, or excessive sleeping

Anxiety, aggression, or other behavioral changes

emergencies

See a doctor right away if you notice any of these signs:

Scratching or shaking of the head, tender ears or ear discharge

inability or effort to urinate; discolored urine

Cloudiness, redness, itching, or other abnormalities affecting the eyes

General reluctance to run or play

Pain when opening mouth or chewing

Increased hunger and thirst, weight loss

Dull coat, hair loss, sluggish, weight gain

Slight fatigue, cough, bloated abdomen, or fainting/collapse

Any abnormal tremors, tremors, or excessive involuntary tremors

partners in healthcare

DNA testing is a rapidly evolving field, with new tests constantly emerging to help diagnose hereditary disorders before they can become a problem for your friend. For the most up-to-date information on DNA and other screening tests available for your friend, visit www.Genesis4Pets.com.

Your Border Terrier is counting on you to take good care of them and we look forward to working with you to ensure they lead a long and healthy life. Our goal is to provide the best possible healthcare: healthcare based on their race, lifestyle and age. Please contact us if you have any questions or concerns.

References:

If you own a newfie, then you’re already familiar with the term “blow coat” or “seasonal hair loss.”

If you’re new to owning a newfie, or new to owning another breed with a double coat, you may be wondering what the fuzz is up with your dog that’s shedding large clumps of hair.

Rest assured that this is perfectly normal and your dog will not go bald.

Why do dogs blow the coat?

Dogs that have a double coat, with guard hairs on top and a soft, dense undercoat on the underside, blow their coat in preparation for the upcoming season.

Rather than shedding a few hairs here and there, double-coated dogs shed large clumps of their undercoat.

In the spring, this prepares them for the warmer weather ahead and makes room for new, healthy hair to grow in.

How often do dogs blow the coat?

Most breeds that have a double coat blow their undercoat twice a year.

Usually the strongest blow is in the spring and a light blow in the fall.

Many dogs are said to start shedding their coats in spring as daylight increases, but some can start as early as January.

Puppies will not puff up their fur because they have not yet had their full adult coat.

What Dog Breeds Blow Coat?

Normally, any breed of dog that has a double coat will blow their undercoat. Some shed quite a bit more clumps of hair than others.

Common breeds that puff up their fur a lot include the Siberian Husky, Newfoundland, Malamute, Bernese Mountain Dog, Great Pyrenees, German Shepherd, Samoyed, and Akita, to name a few.

Some dogs will blow more fur than others, even within the same breed.

Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors will usually puff up their fur more than dogs that spend most of their time in a temperature-controlled environment.

How long does the fur blowing last?

Forever.

It takes forever.

Just kidding.

Sometimes it seems like it’s going to take forever, especially when you’re brushing out an entire dog one day and the next day there’s still tumbleweeds blowing through your house.

How long a dog blows its coat depends on its coat and the thickness of its undercoat.

Most dogs will inflate their coats from anywhere in a few weeks to just over a month.

Other things that can determine how long dogs puff up their fur can depend on health, age, genetics, and hormones.

Some dogs have a spray coat.

After they are altered, their fur becomes thicker and more difficult to manage. Some can blow more than before they were changed.

I have no personal experience with spray coats, so I can’t give a good example.

Tips for dealing with your dog’s blowing fur

Managing your dog’s coat when it’s blowing takes time and care.

It is usually recommended that you groom your dog on a daily basis if he is shedding large amounts of hair.

You can divide the care sessions into 15-minute blocks.

Using a rake and comb are the best methods for removing the loose lint.

Line combing may take longer but is the best way to remove dog hair efficiently.

Using a high speed dog dryer is an excellent and quick way to easily blow out the loose hair before brushing.

Many dog ​​owners also take their dogs to the groomer when they blow their coats to remove most of the loose hair

If you’re caring for your dog at home, now is a good time to check their skin and make sure it’s healthy and hasn’t suffered from the harsh, dry conditions of winter.

Take a deep breath, clean your vacuum cleaner filters and know that this too will pass around the same time as mud season ends.

What to do with all that extra fluff

Many people just throw away all dog hair, but some people recycle it.

You can send it to someone to be cleaned and made up, who will often turn it into yarn that can be felted into mittens, scarves, or even many different things.

You can save some to offer to the birds as nesting material in the spring.

Just make sure it’s free of chemicals like grooming spray and topical flea medications.

If you have longer dog hair, you can cut the dog hair into smaller pieces so that it doesn’t get caught around the little birdie’s legs.

You can also use dog hair as a deer repellent in your yard.

I’ve been doing this for the past few years and it seems to help keep the deer away.

Many people also place some clumps of dog hair under porches or decks to deter rodents.

Save some hair for a keepsake embellishment.

I love this idea and Sherman and Leroy both made an ornament with the name written in it and filled it with dog hair.

I will always have a piece of this.

Sharing is caring!