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Table of Contents
What is a brick tape measure?
brick mate. A specialist tape measure designed to aid professional bricklayers in their work. The unique blade design accurately calculates brick and block quantities and course heights, plus there is a conventional metric scale for general measuring.
What is a Builders tape measure called?
Pocket tape measures have a tape 1 to 15 feet (0.30 to 4.57 m) in length and 1⁄4 to 3⁄4 inch (6.4 to 19.1 mm) across. A second tape measure design is what is called the long tape. These are cased tape measures with tapes of 25, 50, 75, 100, 200, 300, and even 500 feet in length, designed for engineers and builders.
Is there any tape that will stick to brick?
Gorilla tape sticks to smooth, rough and uneven surfaces, including wood, stone, stucco, brick, metal and vinyl. Gorilla Tape, for the Toughest Jobs on Planet Earth®.
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*Compared to a leading brand of tape based on 2018 IRI data
What is a brick jointer?
Brick jointers are specialist tools used to smooth and imprint grooves into recently filled mortar joints between bricks or paving slabs before they set. These easy to use tools can help improve the lifespan of mortar while creating visual impact.
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Brick caulking tools are specialized tools used to smooth out and create grooves in recently filled mortar joints between bricks or pavers before they harden. These easy-to-use tools can help extend the life of grout while creating visual impact. They are useful for compacting mortar between bricks, increasing water resistance and can also be used to improve the appearance of mortar.
What is the toughest tape measure?
The BEST tape measure overall was the Stanley FATMAX. The FATMAX had the highest score in magnetic hold, debris testing, drop testing, hook durability and blade thickness.
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Who makes the best tape measure? Tape measures and hammer marks often cause more discussion on a job site than anything else, and I can see why. If you use a tool daily, hourly, or more often, you become attached to it. One of the most important tools that all construction trades need is the tape measure. So who makes the best tape measure? Professional tape measures must maintain their accuracy while withstanding the usual abuses such as falls or bumps that occur on construction sites.
In this Best Tape Measure Head-2-Head, we put several 25-foot premium tape measures to the test.
We evaluated 8 different tape measures from 7 different manufacturers, five of which had magnetic tips.
The measuring tapes:
Dewalt DWHT 36225 Klein 86225 Milwaukee 48-22-7125 Stanley FMHT 33865 Stanley Powerlock Lufkin L1025MAG Tajima G-25BW
Why 25ft Bands?
While there are certainly many other tape measures to choose from, we decided to look at the more popular, professional tape measure models. We also chose 25 foot models as they are the most popular length measuring tapes on the market. We have subjected each tape measure to the following tests:
10ft and 25ft recoil test
It’s never a smart idea to let the tape measure blade snap back into the case – a tape measure isn’t designed to withstand repeated short, sharp nudges. Repeatedly winding the tape at full speed will damage the internals, end hook, and blade markings.
However, during our testing, we did just that! We tested recoil from 10ft and 25ft to establish a benchmark speed. We then used our benchmark speed to test the tape after abrasion, dirt and drop tests.
For this test, we measured and marked the distance in our clean workshop. We pulled all of the bands out to this distance and recorded recoil five times to determine their average recoil velocity.
The Milwaukee strap [bottom left] bent on the 4th recoil test, a Lufkin strap [bottom right] broke off on the 3rd recoil test. A few others had stretched their hook motion.
We used several of the same brands during our head-to-head testing. By using multiple samples of the tapes, we were able to complete the testing and continue if a particular tape failed a particular test.
From our data, Lufkin had the fastest recoil speed at 1.05 seconds, and that may have been a disadvantage for the snatch. Klien was second with 1.08 seconds and Milwaukee third with 1.20 seconds 25-foot recoil.
abrasion test
Tape measure legibility is important; Over time, the tape markings wear away, making the tape difficult or impossible to read. In addition, wear and tear of the tape coating is the #1 mistake in measuring tapes.
All tape measure manufacturers follow ASTM D 968 and other internationally recognized testing standards, the Falling Sand Abrasion Tester. The Falling Sand Abrasion Tester measures the abrasion resistance of paint, varnish and other organic coatings. Abrasion occurs when abrasive particles fall through a guide tube and hit the specimen until the substrate becomes visible.
The abrasion gauge we used was more aggressive. To simulate and accelerate tape marker wear, we ran an aggressive tape abrasion test in the shop using a “tape-pull abrasion jig”. It was 26 inches long and had a hollowed out, concave center floor. The top of the device had a 3/8 inch wide convex pressure point. Adhesive grit sandpaper was applied to the convex tip and wax was applied to the concave side.
The tape measures were placed in the template which had a very small gap to allow for fitting. We placed a 25 pound weight on top and then pulled the tape back and forth through the jig for a slow 1000 count. This allowed us to evaluate a 60 inch span of belt wear. Tape marker wear was then noted and photographed.
The Stanley PowerLock had the least visible wear on the band. Lufkin was second, Dewalt third and Komelon fourth.
A NOTICE:
Many contractors use the first 6 inches or less of their tape more than the full 25 foot length. As a result, many belts wear out faster in these areas.
To counteract this, DEWALT, Stanley FATMAX and Stanley Powerlock have all placed a clear thermoplastic “Blade Armor” tape over these high wear areas. DEWALT added 9 inches of thermoplastic coating, and the STANLEY FATMAX features a Mylar blade coating and 3 inches of BladeArmor. While the STANLEY Powerlock has a Mylar blade coating.
However, Milwaukee uses a nylon extrusion process. This process melts nylon pellets through a proprietary machine that coats the entire blade. This coating is then baked in an oven. Komelon also uses a “sprayed on” nylon blade coating process, some like the L1025B we tested have a matte nylon finish to reduce glare.
Magnetic pull test [if applicable]
Many contractors use magnetic tape—from metal bolts to HVAC to plumbing. So we wanted to gain insight into who had the strongest magnet. To test this, we attached each band’s magnet to a 3/8-inch metal plate and tugged. In our opinion, all bands should be able to extend the FULL 25 foot length, and while some did, others did not.
Three bands could be extended in full length:
Little Milwaukee Stanley FATMAX
The Lufkin made it to 19’4″ while the Komelon made it to 16 feet. I’ll be honest with you we all have favorites, mine was the Stanley PowerLock but I got into this Komelon at this point in the test band in love.
Magnetic weight test
In this test, we wanted to eliminate the risk of twisting or twisting the user. We attached the tape measures with magnets to the underside of the non-galvanized ceiling joist hanger, lengthened the tape, attached the tape measure latch, and then applied blue tape to the tape and body to reinforce the latch. We used the blue tape because we found that many of the tape measure locks failed before the magnet did.
For this test, we placed pre-measured weights on the tape measure until the magnet failed. This test gave us an indication of how strong the magnet was.
The Stanley FATMAX blew the doors off the competition with a magnet strength of 5.5lb. Second was Milwaukee with 2.25 lbs. Followed by Klein, Komelon and Lufkin at 1.5lbs or less.
debris test
Traders working in extremely dusty environments will tell you that it doesn’t take long for the recoil on the tape to become sluggish or stop entirely. Water or dirt that gets on the blade of a tape measure can seep into the mechanism and clog, rust, or jam the winding.
For this test, we developed an excruciating debris chamber recoil test. We modified a 3 inch PVC pipe to hold a mixture of drywall dust, sawdust and sand.
Each tape was pulled out to 25 feet and slowly thrown back. We repeated this sequence 4 times. This test proved too much for most tapes. Many of them would retract and close no less than 6 inches. We had to pull the straps in and out to get them to close completely.
After closing, we tested her recoil twice from 25 feet while timing. The BEST tape measure in this agonizing test was the Stanley FATMAX, which stopped at 9 feet on the first recoil test and then finished the recoil test at 1.9 seconds.
Followed by Lufkin, who rebounded 10’10” on the first test and 6″ on the second test. The Stanley PowerLock in third place stopped at 10′-4″” on his first test and rebounded just 25″ on his second test (Overall) The DEWALT, Klein and Milwaukee all rebounded to 14.5 inches or more and did not rebound at all on the second recoil test.
Outstanding tape measure
Standing out is big for some people because a long tape measure comes in handy when measuring alone. Standout basically refers to how straight you can lengthen your band without it bending or losing its rigidity.
We made a template with a 15 degree angle and tested each band three times to get an average outstanding reading. The DEWALT stood out here, pun intended, with the longest standout.
Outstanding results
DEWALT 11’3″ Stanley FAXMAX at 10’6″ Lufkin at 10’0″.
hook movement
Have you ever wondered why the hook is loose?
All of our pro followers already know why the hook on the end of a tape measure is loose. But for all beginners, looseness is very intentional and plays a key role in using the tape measure for both indoor and outdoor measurements.
When you bump the end of the tape measure against a surface for an inside measurement, the tip is pressed against the end of the tape measure by the width of that hook. (Spoiler alert—the first inch of tape is short by the thickness of a hook.) If you take the outside measurement and hook it over the edge of the object being measured, the hook will move away from the tape by the width of the hook.
We looked at how exactly manufacturers built their bands for this inside/outside hook movement. And we wanted to see how the hooks on the straps hold up after our pull-back test. The results varied.
As shipped, the Lufkin was the most accurate with a hook gauge of .045 inches, which translates to .045 inches of hook movement. Most other tapes had a 0.01 inch difference in these measurements. The Milwaukee band had the largest difference at 0.022 inches
After the pullback tests, we measured which tapes met their tolerances and which showed a clear difference after this test. Our theory was that the quick 25-foot pullbacks would eventually loosen the tape hook and distort its tolerance. We were right.
In this comparison, both Stanley tapes performed well. The Stanley PowerLock reading was identical and the FatMax varied by just 0.01 inches. Milwaukee also achieved the 0.01 inch FatMax performance. The Lufkin tape showed the greatest difference, increasing 0.045 inches, almost a full hook gauge.
ergonomics
Ergonomics is about designing for the end user. Defined as the science of tailoring a workspace to the needs of the user, ergonomics aims to increase efficiency and productivity and reduce discomfort. For ergonomics we consider:
Handle
weight
Lock out
belt buckle
Ability to sit flat on a surface
hook
overall construction
The best tape measure in the ergonomics category was the Milwaukee. The crew liked the detent on the back of the body and the finger brake on the bottom. The Milwaukee body has plenty of rubber wrapping on the top and bottom. It was the most stable of all tape measures when placed on a flat surface. The extremely durable hook has solid rivets, a super strong magnet and a screw nail slot with 2 top tabs.
The Milwaukee tape measure features a unique belt clip made from a ball of wire instead of a flat piece of metal. The clip is specially designed to reduce wear and tear on pants and tool bags.
The crew found it difficult to attach this belt clip to a pants pocket with one hand, but once attached it does a phenomenal job of keeping the tape in place.
The Stanley FATMAX was a close second in terms of ergonomics. It has a rubber overmold on the top rear and bottom, a strong, secure, positive click strap lock that can withstand 4 lbs.
The crew liked the belt hook and the flat magnet hook with its screw nail slot on the bottom tab and two extensions on the top tabs. Third place went to Komelon, which is a very comfortable, soft recoil band and one of my favorites.
legibility
Legibility and durability are two words that stick with me when I think of tape measures. Three tapes tied for best tape measure readability.
Milwaukee Komelon Lufkin
The Milwaukee tape features a 1/16 yellow scale and is 2-sided. At the back of the band you can read the numbers upside down. Additionally, there is a small 12″ long architectural scale for measuring 1/8 and 1/4 inch scale plans. This scale starts at 10 inches on the back of the band and runs to 22 inches.
The 1/16 scale Komelon is easy to read with its high visibility yellow tape on top and white tape on back [double sided]. The crew felt that the Komelon might be the BEST of the tapes to read because of the tape color! One thing the crew noticed was that the tape markers were a little busy reading after the 12 inch markers. [For example; 13 inches is listed at 13 and also 1F 1.] We found this marking pattern made the tape very busy and unnecessary.
The Lufkin Yellow Tape is also 2-sided in 1/16th scale. The markings are longer on this tape and are labeled similarly to the Komelon after 12 inches.
Drop tests from 15 feet and 30 feet
We dropped the tapes on the sidewalk, once in 15 feet and a second time in 30 feet. After both drops we recorded and noted the condition of each tape. We set up a passenger elevator to conduct our drop tests.
Almost all tapes survived our 15-foot drop test. The Small Tape Measure suffered the most damage. The Klein’s hook bent and the suitcase opened. While it’s possible for the Klien to hit the ground perfectly to dent the hook, we feel the case shouldn’t have opened from 15 feet. Also damaged were the Stanley FAXMAX, DEWALT, Milwaukee and Komelon with minor case or hook damage. The Tajima and Lufkin took first place in the 15-foot drop test. Both tapes worked perfectly and had no visible damage.
In the 30 foot drop test, the two most durable tape measures after the drop test were the Dewalt and Stanley FATMAX, both of which sustained the least damage and were still usable after the test. Lufkin and Tajima took second place with slightly more damage, but less than the rest of the field. The Klein ended up in last place as its case ruptured on impact.
Price
Dewalt DWHT 36225 – $29.97
Small—Upper #86225—$24.66
Milwaukee #48-22-7125 – $23.96
Stanley FMHT 33865 – $22.98
Stanley Powerlock – $11.00
Lufkin L1025MAG – $16.80
Tajima G-25BW – $20.91
Komelon 73425—$11.05
BEST tape measure overall
The BEST tape measure overall was the Stanley FATMAX. The FATMAX had the highest scores in the Magnetic Hold, Debris Test, Drop Test, Hook Durability, and Blade Thickness areas. It placed second in four other categories and secured first place in our tests.
One of our crew referred to it as the “brick shit house” of a tape measure.
While I’m sure Stanley’s marketing team won’t use that description, it’s certainly a durable, tough, and well-made tape measure designed for tough job site conditions.
Scoring just one point less than the FATMAX in a super close race for best tape measure was not a crew favorite, nor was it on anyone’s radar during our tape testing.
This dark horse slipped past the competition, taking 1st place three times and scoring 2nd place three times and 3rd place six times in multiple test categories.
The second best tape measure is the Lufkin.
After testing it, I realized that these devices need proper care to provide you with accurate and reliable measurements. Taking care of your tape measure is easy, here are a few steps on how to properly care for your tape measure.
Best Tape Measure Dewalt Klein Milwaukee Komelon Stanley PowerLock Tajima Lufkin Stanley Fat Max Ergonomics 6 7 1 3 7 5 4 2 25 Foot Recoil 7 2 3 4 8 6 1 5 Abrasion 3 8 7 4 1 6 2 5 Magnetic Pull Test 0 2 2 4 0 0 2 2nd Magnetic Hold 3 3 2 5 3 3 3 1 Debris Test 6 8 7 4 3 5 2 1 Outstanding 1 5 4 8 7 6 3 2 Readability 2 3 1 1 2 2 1 2 Drop Test 2 4 3 2 4 1 1 2 Drop Test 1 8 5 5 5 3 3 1 Construction 1 3 2 1 3 2 3 2 Hook Durability 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 1 Blade Strength 2 3 1 3 3 1 2 1 Price 8 7 6 2 1 4 3 5 TOTAL POINT 45 65 45 47 48 46 33 32
Best Tape Measure Video Review
What is a tape measure used for in construction?
A flexible ruler used to measure size or distance is a tape measure. The design allows for a measure of great length to be carried in a pocket or a toolkit and can be used to measure around curves or corners.
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What is the use of tape measure in sewing?
Uses of a tape measure in sewing
A tape measure is used primarily for taking body measurements, as well as for drafting patterns, measuring fabric, laying out patterns on fabric, specifying the length of a garment, checking the size of hems, measuring curves and corners, and measuring curtains, quilts … and much more.
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1. What is a tape measure for sewing?
The sewing tape is usually a soft and flexible strip/tape with linear measurement markings, most often made of reinforced polyester or fiberglass. The most common length of a measuring tape is 60 inches (or 152 cm), but there are measuring tapes for sale, for example with a length of 100 inches (254 cm) or even longer 120 inches (304 cm) that can be useful to measure longer to measure lengths (such as curtains, quilts and other furnishings).
2. Using a tape measure when sewing
A tape measure is mainly used for measuring body measurements, drawing patterns, measuring fabrics, laying out patterns on fabrics, telling the length of a garment, checking the size of hems, measuring curves and corners, measuring curtains and quilts… and much more. It is simply necessary for a seamstress to have a tape measure at hand. Better yet, multiple types of different colors at once.
I have an in depth video sewing tutorial on using a tape measure to take body measurements. Listen.
3. How to read a sewing tape
As you may know, there are two main systems of measuring length – the imperial system, which uses yards, feet, and inches to measure things, and the metric system, which uses meters, centimeters, and millimeters.
Measuring tapes in the United States and Canada usually have both metric and imperial measurement markings, but some of them may only have one type of measurement.
Many in the US have ancient roots and are used to centimeters/meters for measurements, although most patterns are in inches. I live in the US and I often use the metric system because all Burda magazine samples (which I love!) are marked in metric measurements. So we have to live and work with both metric and imperial measurement systems and try to accommodate as much as possible.
The main problem with the imperial system is the lack of decimal fractions.
Let’s take an example: I have a piece of fabric that is 58 inches wide. From this piece of fabric I need to make 10 pleats. What is the distance between the folds? Suffice it to say that the folds should be exactly 5.8 inches apart, but that doesn’t translate well into fractional inches, and if we take the closest approximation (5 13/16) it means that one of the distances actually is is only 5 9/16.
Over time this is no longer an issue and you get used to it. However, this can be confusing if this is your first time moving to the US and you are not used to this system. I grew up with the metric system and when I (first) saw an inch tape measure I looked at it with real confusion. So in this guide I want to answer the question “how to use both systems and convert measurements from one to the other” or more specifically “how to read a tailor’s tape measure”.
First, let’s talk about measuring tape marks. I use straps that are marked in both inches and cm for convenience, but as I often use Burda patterns I also have some older straps that are marked in centimeters only. I prefer bands that are marked with both metric and imperial units on both sides, like this one, and all my newer bands are like that. how many do i have Honestly, I do not know!
How do you read a tape measure in millimeters?
The marks on it are made with the main divisions at a distance of 1 cm, and intermediate – 1 mm.
A centimeter is divided into 10 equal parts – millimeters and you can express fractions with a decimal point (2.3 cm – 2 cm 3 mm or 23 mm).
How to read a tape measure in inches
The marks on it are made with the major divisions 1 inch apart and intermediate marks – ⅛ or 1/16 inch.
An inch is divided into 2, 4, 8, and 16 equal parts, so the measurement in inches is something like “2 3/8” or “5 3/16”. And the decimal point doesn’t really make sense for inches.
The image below shows a section of tape divided into 1/8 inch divisions, the multiples of ¼ inch and ½ inch have longer markings.
I’ve seen tape measures (for sewing) with divisions for ½, ¼, 1/8 and 1/16, but no finer.
The fractions of inches are usually marked with a simple line so you would have to count the number of divisions to get the fractions and personally I’ve always had a problem with that! It’s so easy to make a mistake! The picture below shows a tape with 1/16 inch divisions, even more difficult to count. Can you locate the 5/16 on a tape measure right away? I can not.
Let me give you more examples.
How to read a tape measure in 16ths
Let’s say my tape measure has 16 marks per inch and I use it to measure an arrow, for example. It’s 4 whole inches plus 5 little marks, that’s 4 and 5/16 inches.
Another example, let’s use it to measure the distance between buttonholes (see my tutorial on making perfect buttonholes) and it’s 3 whole inches plus 2 small marks, then it’s 3 and 2/16 inches. But we’re not going to say the distance is 3 2/16 inches, we usually say 2/16 as ⅛, right? So our measurement for the buttonholes is 3 ⅛ inches.
Another example, let’s say we want to make a hem and it makes 1 whole inch plus 4 small marks, then that’s 1 and 4/16 inches, which we convert to 1¼ inches.
Let’s say we need to figure out where ⅝ is on a tape measure with 16 marks per inch. We convert ⅝ to 16ths – that’s 10/16, right? Then we need to count 10 small marks on the tape measure – this is how we find ⅝ on the tape measure.
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4. How to buy a tape measure for sewing
How to buy a tape measure for sewing? It’s not difficult, but there are a few details you need to pay attention to.
Anyone serious about sewing needs to choose a quality tape measure with a guarantee against shrinkage and disappearance of marks. The cloth tape measure must be strong but flexible, not twisted or stretched, and not easily torn.
Pay attention to the material of the tape – it needs to be strong to serve you as long as possible without stretching. Modern professional tapes are made of fiberglass and will NEVER stretch. When choosing a tape measure for sewing, remember that it should be soft and flexible. A rigid tape measure will not fit your body or a pattern and fabric and all measurements will turn out to be wrong.
Choose a tape measure whose scale starts right at the edge of the tape measure. If the beginning of the scale is indented from the margin, you must constantly ensure that this indentation does not fall within the measurement. In any case, make sure you measure from the ZERO LINE.
We also recommend that you choose a tape whose scale starts with a unit 1 at both ends: then you always have the beginning of the scale in your hand, no matter which end of the tape you use.
Be sure to check the accuracy of the scale on the tape measure. Accuracy is a basic requirement for any measuring tool. The markings need to be bright and clear so you can see the numbers very well.
A tape measure scale can be attached in both inches and centimeters. A double scale may come in handy if you frequently sew with patterns from magazines or websites from countries that adopt the metric scale.
The next thing to look for when buying a tape measure is the color. Prefer bright colors – they’ll be easier to find in the creative clutter that usually reigns in the sewing room where you cut and sew fabrics. I often lose my tape on the table between patterns and pieces of fabric. What about you? But when it’s light pink, it’s much easier to see.
Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means that I get a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products that I believe in and use myself.
If a tape measure is snapped, stretched, or rubbed, do not attempt to repair it BECAUSE its readings may become inaccurate. This sewing tool is cheap, so you’d better buy a new one right away.
5. Types of tape measures
1. Some bands are only marked in centimeters and millimeters.
2. Some only have inches and their fractions (in 8ths or 16ths).
3. Some have both inches and centimeters. I personally prefer this type of tape measure for sewing. Converting lengths for sewing is easy using a tape measure marked in both cm and inches. All you have to do is read the inch side, which corresponds to the number in centimeters. For example, if we need to convert 66 cm to inches, in the image below we can see that the result is 26 inches.
4. Two-sided tape measure. For me, this is the best tape measure because the scale starts with a unit 1 at both ends: no matter which end of the tape measure you use, you always have the beginning of the scale in your hand. I think they also called it DUAL SIDED. But in the US most stores don’t have double sided tape (I mean the unit 1 tape on BOTH ends) with inch/cm markings on both sides. I bought mine in New York and found one online. I just can’t use the other kind they sell at most fabric stores. I don’t want to waste a lot of time looking for the right end to start measuring.
5. Measuring tapes have different lengths and widths.
The most common length is 60″ (152 cm), but there are longer straps that are twice that size.
The standard width of a tape measure is ⅝ inch and this is very helpful as the standard seam allowance measurement for most patterns is ⅝ inch. So when I’m making simple patterns (like this pattern for shorts or this pattern for a simple top), I just use the width of my tape measure to draw seam allowances on the fly.
6. The most common materials for such tapes are reinforced polyester and fiberglass, which I prefer because it doesn’t stretch. The tape measure’s narrow edges are often decorated with metal rivets to prevent wear.
7. Retractable tape measures have a self-contained body, which is a big plus. They can easily be carried in a handbag. Choose one that pulls out easily and pulls in well too.
8. Cute and pretty tape measures always bring a smile to my face. These tape measures make a great gift for any seamstress.
9. Self-adhesive measuring tapes for sewing.
These removable adhesive-backed measuring tapes are used to mark fabrics or sewing tables for quick measurements when cutting or trimming. They are printed in imperial and metric markings. The tape will not stick well to damp or wet surfaces, so make sure the surface is relatively clean and dry. I use this along the edge of my sewing table for quick measurements.
The tape measure should be stored hanging or rolled up. It is advisable to set a fixed place for it so that you always know where to get it.
6. Vintage and Antique Tape Measures
There are many sewing tools that have thousands of years of history. But a flexible measuring tape is a relatively recent invention. Let me tell you some interesting facts about a tailor’s tape measure. I really wonder how they took body measurements before the tape measure was invented. And who first suggested using a graduated tape measure?
Well, I found information that the cloth measuring tape was invented in 1847 by Alexis Lavigne – the master tailor of the French Empress Maria Eugenia, the founder of the world’s first fashion school Esmod, which exists to this day.
And since then, an elegant, beautifully packaged tape measure has become a symbol of the profession of a fashion designer and tailor.
Why were tape measures primarily made in a case? I think everything is simple here. These vintage tape measures were made of cloth, usually silk, and had ink markings (printed on them by hand) and of course the case provided some sort of recoil mechanism for some security.
Below are pictures of some vintage tape measures. I found these images online in a Russian post with little historical information.
7. Tape Measure Chart PRINTABLE
If you simply want to convert between inches and millimeters, use this table below with mm equivalents for inch divisions.
Values are rounded to the nearest mm value. For example, if the actual value is 7.94mm, we need to round it up to 8mm, because the millimeter is not further subdivided when sewing – the millimeter is the smallest common unit in the metric system. We can’t really see and use anything smaller than a millimeter.
Did you find this tutorial helpful? If so, save this pin (below) to your sewing board so you can come back to this tutorial later if you need to know how to use a tape measure, and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials and inspiration!
What do you use a tape measure for?
A tape measure, or measuring tape is a type of hand tool typically used to measure distance or size. It is like a much longer flexible ruler consisting of a case, thumb lock, blade/tape, hook, and sometimes a belt clip. A tape measure will have imperial readings, metric readings or both.
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case
The case is where the band/blade is housed. This often determines how durable the tape is as a whole. Some tape measure housings are made of metal, some are made of plastic, and others are made of durable rubber that has been drop tested to withstand the knocks of a job site.
case length
You can find the case length on the back of the measuring tape. It’s essentially the length of the case, but it’s a great addition to your band. It comes in handy when you want to measure round corners. Use the case for inside measurements instead of bending the band.
thumb lock
The thumb lock is designed to keep your band in place at the desired length. It prevents your tape measure from automatically retracting into its housing when taking measurements. Simply release the thumb latch to put the tape back in its case.
blade/band
The most important part of your tape measure, the blade (or metal tape), will give you your accurate measurements. Imperial units are usually on the top row and metric measurement markings on the bottom. More about the tape itself later…
hook
The hook at the end of the tape is useful when measuring hard surfaces such as tables. You may find that the hook is loose; this is intentional to ensure accuracy. If the hook has a hole, it can grab screws.
belt buckle
Does what it promises. With the belt clip, the measuring tape can be easily attached to the belt and is always ready to hand.
BEST tape measure for Bricklayers [Hultafors BrickMate Tool Review]
See some more details on the topic brick gauge tape measure here:
brick tape measure – Amazon.co.uk
OX P028708 Imperial Measuring Tape – Trade Series Metric Tape – Heavy Duty Nylon Coated Measurement Tape – Black/Blue – 8mm. 4.4 out of 5 …
Source: www.amazon.co.uk
Date Published: 8/3/2021
View: 3558
Brick Tape Measure for sale – eBay
Buy Brick Tape Measure and get the best deals at the lowest prices on eBay! Great Savings & Free Delivery / Collection on many items.
Source: www.ebay.co.uk
Date Published: 9/7/2022
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Brick Mate | Short Tapes | Measuring Tapes – Fisco Tools Ltd.
A specialist tape measure designed to a professional bricklayers in their work. The unique blade design accurately calculates brick and block quantities …
Source: www.fisco.co.uk
Date Published: 1/4/2022
View: 3269
Measuring Tapes
A special tape measure designed to assist professional bricklayers in their work. The unique blade design accurately calculates brick and block amounts and layer heights, plus there’s a traditional metric scale for general measurements. Use the Brick Mate for any bricklaying job – large or small – it saves time, effort and money.
Unique blade design* with three scales for calculating brick and block quantities and layer heights, plus a traditional metric scale that conforms to EC Class I.
Manufactured in the UK.
Light, ergonomic ABS housing with non-slip rubber grip pad.
Easy-to-use forced lock that minimizes blade slippage.
Bump stop for additional blade and end hook protection.
Unique snap-in quick release belt clip holster.
* The unique Brick Mate blade scale is designed to fit UK standard brick (215mm wide x 65mm high) and block (440mm wide) sizes.
Tape measure
Flexible ruler for measuring size or distance
Plastic measuring tape (cm)
Self-Retracting Metal Tape Measure (US Standard)
1 ⁄ 32 inch (0.794 mm) tape measure that can measure up to 0.794 mm (inches).
Diagram showing fractions of an inch on a standard sixteenth tape measure
A tape measure or tape measure is a flexible ruler used to measure sizes or distances.
It consists of a fabric, plastic, fiberglass or metal strip with linear measurement markings. It’s a common measurement tool. Its design allows a long length measure to be easily carried in your pocket or toolbox and to measure around curves or corners. Today it is ubiquitous, even appearing in miniature form as a keychain or as a novelty item. Surveyors use measuring tapes in lengths of more than 100 m.
Types [ edit ]
There are two basic types of measuring tapes with cases: pocket measuring tapes with spring return and long measuring tapes. Spring-return pocket tapes generally fit in a pocket. you are small; The case is up to three inches in diameter. The tape is returned to the housing by a spring mechanism. Pocket tape measures have a tape that is 1 to 15 feet (0.30 to 4.57 m) long and 1⁄4 to 3⁄4 inch (6.4 to 19.1 mm) in diameter.
A second tape measure design is the so-called long tape measure. These are tape measures with tapes of 25, 50, 75, 100, 200, 300 and even 500 feet designed for engineers and builders. Because the survey was usually done with poles, surveyors use long tapes of 33 feet (2 poles) and 66 feet (4 poles). Surveyors also used 49 + 1⁄2 feet of a 50 foot tape measure for 3 rods and 99 feet of a 100 foot tape measure for 6 rods. Long ribbons, instead of being returned by a spring, were usually returned by a hand crank.
Tape measures are often designed for specific uses or professions. Depending on the purpose, tapes can have different scales, be made of different materials and have different lengths. Tape measures intended for dressmaking or tailoring were made from flexible fabric or plastic. They are called “sewing tape”. These types of tape measures were mainly used to measure the test subject’s waistline. Today, sewing tapes are made of fiberglass, which doesn’t tear or stretch easily. Tape measures for carpentry or construction often use a stiff, curved metal tape that can remain stiff and straight when extended, but contracts into a coil for convenient storage. This type of tape measure has a floating tang or hook at the end to make measuring easier. The tang is connected to the strap with loose rivets through oval holes and is allowed to move a distance equal to its thickness to provide accurate inside and outside measurements.[1] A tape measure of 25 or even 100 feet can curl up into a relatively small container. The self-marking tape measure allows the user to take an accurate measurement with one hand.
history [edit]
The first records of people using a measuring device came from the Romans using marked strips of leather, but this more closely resembled a regular ruler than a tape measure.
On December 6, 1864, Patent No. 45,372 was granted to William H. Bangs of West Meriden, Connecticut. Bang’s rule was the first attempt in the United States to make a spring-return pocket tape measure. The tape could be stopped at any point and held by the mechanism. The band could be returned to the case by sliding a knob on the side of the case, allowing the spring to pull the band back into the case.
The first patented long tape measure in the United States received U.S. Patent No. 29,096, issued July 10, 1860 to William H. Paine of Sheboygan, Wisconsin, [3] and licensed by George M. Eddy and Company of Brooklyn, New York. There were no increments on this tape. Only one distance has been accurately measured, which is the total length of the band from start to finish Marker, a piece of brass attached to the band at a measured distance. The measured length was marked on the case or crank.
Hiram A. Farrand with the Farrand Rapid Rule
Later, in the early 1870s, Justus Roe of Patchogue, New York, added rivets that attached small brass discs to the band to mark inches and feet. They were fastened every inch in the first and last feet and every foot from one to the end of the last foot. A small brass plaque was affixed every five feet, marked with a number indicating the number of feet to that point. This feature was never patented, but Justus Roe and Sons produced tape measures, “Roe Electric Reel Tape Measures”, with this feature in the 1890s and early 1900s when they began to etch or stamp increments and numbers onto the tapes. (The “electric” part of the name was just an affectation; there was nothing electrical about it.)
On January 3, 1922, Hiram A. Farrand received Patent No. 1,402,589 for his concavo-convex tape, a major improvement on spring-loaded tape measures.[4] Between 1922 and December 1926, Farrand experimented with the Brown Company in Berlin, New Hampshire.[5] It was there that Farrand and William Wentworth Brown began mass-producing the tape measure.[6] Their product was later sold to Stanley Works. It was Farrand’s concave-convex tape measure that became the standard for most pocket tape measures today.
In the 1900s, certain manufacturers began selling new tape measures with prophecies and fortunes instead of numbers: users could check friends’ heights and receive a fortune instead of their number.[7][8]
draft [edit]
The basic design on which all modern spring tape measures are based dates back to an 1864 patent held by William H. Bangs Jr. of Meriden, Connecticut. According to the text of his patent, Bang’s tape measure was an improvement over other previously designed versions.[9]
The spring tape has existed in the United States since Bang’s patent in 1864, but its use did not become very popular due to the difficulties in communicating from one city to another and the cost of the tape. By the late 1920s, carpenters slowly began to adopt H. A. Farrand’s design as the most commonly used. Farrand’s new design was a concave/convex band of metal that would stick out straight at four to six feet. This design is the basis for most modern pocket tapes in use today.
With the mass production of the integrated circuit (IC), the digital tape measure has also entered the digital age. Some include a digital screen to display readings in multiple formats. An early patent for this type of measure was published in 1977.[10]
There are other types of tape measures that incorporate laser and ultrasonic technology to measure the distance of an object with fairly reliable accuracy.
Tape measures often have black and red measurements on a yellow background, as this is the optimal color combination for legibility.[11]
United States[edit]
A dual scale inch/centimeter tape measure.
Justus Roe, a surveyor and tape measure maker by trade, made the longest tape measure at 183 m in 1956.[12]
The Northern Virginia Surveyors Association presented Mickey Mantle with the gold-plated 600-foot surveyor’s tape measure in 1956.[13]
A rollable millimeter tape measure is used.
Some bands sold in the United States have additional markings in the form of small black diamonds appearing every 19.2 inches (488 mm). These are used to mark equal spacing for joists (five joists or trusses per US standard length of 8 feet (2,438 mm) of building material).
Many US belts also have special markings every 16 inches (406 mm), which is a US standard interval for construction bolts. Three 16-inch gaps equal exactly 4 feet (1,219 mm), which is the US width of a sheet of plywood, drywall, or chipboard.
A 5 meter tape measure made in the USA with markings in millimeters only.
The sale of dual metric/US common scale tape measures is slowly becoming common in the United States. For example, at some Walmarts, Hyper Tough brand tapes are available in both US imperial and metric units. Unlike US rules, an overwhelming majority of which include both centimeter and inch scales, tape measures are longer and thus have traditionally had scales in inches and feet and inches. So, inclusion of a metric scale requires that the gauge either contain 3 measurement scales or eliminate one of the US Customary scales.
The use of millimeter tape measures for residential construction is part of the US metric building codes.[14][15] This code does not allow the use of centimeters. Millimeters produce whole (integer) numbers, reducing arithmetic errors and thus reducing waste due to such errors. The US-made tape shown at right is interesting in that it is an “inverted tape” in which measurements can be read right-to-left as well as left-to-right.
Australia, Bangladesh, Botswana, Cameroon, India, Kenya, Mauritius, New Zealand, Pakistan, South Africa, the United Kingdom and Zimbabwe all use only millimeters as a unit for building construction.[16] According to ISO 2848, the distance between the studs is 600 millimeters, which has 24 different divisors to make the calculation easier. The metric tape shown is a millimeter tape. The dual scale tape measure is in both US inches and centimeters.
Australia[ edit ]
The construction industry was the first major industrial group in Australia to complete its conversion to metric units, complete by January 1976.
Australian 5 meter tape measure, with the markings entirely in millimetres.
In this regard, industry was grateful to SAA (now Standards Australia) for the early creation of the standard AS 1155-1974 “Metric Units for Use in the Construction Industry”, which mandated the use of millimeters as the small unit for metric upgrade. In introducing the millimeter as the ‘small’ unit of length for the metric (rather than the centimetre), the Metric Conversion Board drew heavily on experience in the UK and within the ISO where this decision had already been made. 19][circle expulsion]
This was formally stated as follows: “The metric units of length in construction will be meters (m) and millimeters (mm), with the kilometer (km) used where appropriate. This applies to all areas of industry and the centimeter (cm) should not be used. … the centimeter should not be used in any calculation and it should never be written down.”[20]
The logic of using the millimeter in this context was that the metric system was designed so that there would be multiples or submultiples for each use. Decimal fractions need not be used. Since tolerances in components and in construction practice would seldom be less than a millimeter, the millimeter became the most appropriate sub-unit for this industry.
For this reason, those in the construction industry primarily use millimeter tapes. While dual scale tapes showing both inches and centimeters are sold, these are mostly cheap imported items (since not allowing them to be imported would be a trade restriction).
United Kingdom[ edit ]
Tape measures sold in the UK often have dual scales for metric and imperial units. Like the American tape measures described above, they have markings every 16 inches (40.6 cm) and 19.2 inches (48.8 cm).
Canada[ edit ]
Tape measures sold in Canada often have dual scales for metric and imperial units. All tapes in imperial units have markings every 16 inches (40.6 cm), but not every 19.2 inches (48.8 cm). Housing construction in Canada is largely, if not entirely, done by Imperial standards.
In surveying[ edit ]
Tape measures are used in surveying to measure horizontal, vertical, or inclined distances. Ribbons are issued in different lengths and widths and graduated in different ways.[21] The measuring tapes used for surveying purposes are divided into 4 types according to the material from which they are made:
Linen or fabric tape is made of linen fabric with brass handle at the zero end, the length of which is included in the tape length. It is very light and handy, but does not withstand heavy use. So it cannot be used for precise work. It is used little in surveying, except for capturing auxiliary measurements such as offsets. Metallic tape is reinforced with copper wires to prevent fibers from stretching or twisting. They are available in many lengths, but 20m and 30m tapes are more commonly used.[22] Steel strip is manufactured from steel strip varying in width from 6mm to 16mm. It is available in lengths of 1, 2, 10, 30 and 50 meters. It will not stand up to rough use and should therefore be used with great care. Invar Tape is made of Invar, an alloy of steel (64%) and nickel (36%). It is 6mm wide and available in lengths of 30m, 50m and 100m. It is expensive and delicate and should therefore be handled with great care.[23]
Accuracy and standardization[edit]
Red EC classification symbols printed on a retractable tape measure.
The accuracy of a tape measure depends on the ends of the tape and the markings printed on the tape. The accuracy for the end of a retractable tape measure depends on the sliding mechanism and the thickness of the hook.
The European Commission (EC) has standardized a non-mandatory classification system for certifying the accuracy of tape measures, with certified tapes falling into one of three accuracy classes: Classes I, II and III.[24] For example, the tolerances for 10 m long strips under certain conditions are:
Class I: Accuracy to ±1.10 mm over 10 m length
Class II: Accuracy to ±2.30 mm over 10 m length
Class III: Accuracy to ±4.60mm over 10m length
When a tape measure has been certified, the class indication is printed on the tape along with other symbols, including the nominal tape length, year of manufacture, country of manufacture and manufacturer’s name.[25] For retractable tapes, Class I is the most accurate and typically the most expensive, while Class II tapes are the most common.[26]
References[edit]
Amazon.co.uk : brick tape measure
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